Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 21 2004 Volume
02 : Number 350
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 13:35:13 -0500
From: Planet <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Downpipe blowing gaskets
Hi,
A few months ago I bought a 3SX downpipe for my 92 Stealth SOHC.
Because
the exhaust was still original and the lack of tools I have I could
not
bolt on the pipe myself so I took it all to a local midas to get them to
do it. Since then I have been back 5 times to get them to replace the
gaskets. First time the front and back joint's gasket blew. And the next
3 times just the back gasket has blown. First time they used the gaskets
that 3SX provided me, then the next times they have put their own in. I
have only paid once for this but I am getting tired of going back. They
have no idea why it keeps blowing. Anyone know maybee why this is
happening. By the back joint I mean where the pipe bolts to the pipe
coming off the rear of the engine (the header?). Is there so much
pressure and this is the weakest joint? I have no idea and neither does
Midas. Im going up today to get them to fix it again. Any insight that I
could tell them?
Thanks in advance
Jason M
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:02:23 -0500
From: "Dan Labonte" <
danlabonte@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Compression test results, how concerned should I be?
I just did mine the other week when I installed new ignition wires.
As a
comparison my numbers were:
Cyl 1
3 5 2
4 6
132 120
130 155 136 143
When I did a test last year in Colorado at 7500ft the numbers
were
Cyl 1 3
5 2 4
6
101 95
105 110 100 105
So you can see what a difference elevation makes.
Do a wet test and if
numbers improve it would possible indicate bad rings.
Else worn valves or
head gasket leaks.
I also noticed that my plug for Cyl 6 seemed to be running hotter then
the
others (High speed glazing effect). Did someone on this list talk
about
this cyl possible not getting enough fuel so it could run hotter
and
possible a fix?
Thanks
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Hi guys.
I have a problem with my ABS-light going on irregulary.
But
I think itŽs related to the G-sensor behind the gearshifter, underneath the
center-column.
Cause when the light goes on, all I have to do is to nock on
the G-sensor with a screwdriver or something a few times. Then turn the ignition
of.
Next time IŽll start the car, everything seems to be ok.
This can
happen a couple of times a week, and sometimes it will be a couple of weeks
between the the light going on.
Hope you guys can help me with some tips on this problem.
Best regards.
/Mats Gebelius (Sweden)
Dodge Stealth RT/TT
-94
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:22:36 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo and NA 328-355mm StopTech Brake Kits!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
>
As far as the rear kits go, do I have to post preview pictures and list
>
them as "available" on my website too? The first rear kit is sold and
will
> be ready to ship in two weeks. Others will come when I get a
positive
> feedback. Parking brake is included.
Sounds good. I didn't know that you had made any progress on the
rears yet
(thought it was an eternal work-in-progress). I think looking
back on it
now, I shouldn't have said identical... since rotors seem to
be the only
similarity that I saw, but you didn't give caliper specs
yet. I am still
interested in what sizes you choose.
I haven't paid any recent attention to his 3si posts, but he does
get
carried away/frustrated sometimes with all the people wanting to see it
on
someone else's car before they buy one... nobody wants to be the first,
or
the ones who do don't have the ca$h.
I know he doesn't have a 3/S, but he bought a hub assembly to do his
own
measuring. And then did actual fits on my car and also a 2nd gen
VR4 to be
able to fit the kits behind stock wheels. But his interest in
investing
more time on our cars is directly proportional to the interest he
sees in
prospective clients(not much so far).
> What I least want to do is start a discussion "my kit versus
yours".
I don't like bickering either.
- -Erik
'94 R/T
PS: I'm interested on your views of the Wilwood line of products -
Would
like to hear an "unbiased" opinion to the products I'm trying to help
push
through Email me privately if you have the time.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:22:48 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Importance of speed rating for tires
Z is always better than V, however, W and Y are modifiers for the
Z
rating. If a tire has a true Z speed rating, then to determine
the
maximum speed for that particular tire, you must call the
manufacturer,
give them detailed info about the car, weight, weight
distribution, air
pressures, and then they will give you the speed capability
of that
particular tire.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:38:33 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Removing Cats for more power...
Now that we have our cars registered in NV, there is no
emissions
requirement. What is the current wisdom as to removing
cats? I don't want
to pollute the hell out of the environment, but if I
can get some HP gain by
removing something, without leaving a trail of foul
air, I'd certainly like
to...
Suggestions, please?
TIA,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:02:39 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Removing Cats for more power...
Hey Bob
TT : Precats have to go for sure, the main cat is large enough although
I'd
add a race cat or test pipe depending whetever you have a dp or not. Gain
is
not much hp wise but better spool up and better high rpm booat
holding
capability what may result in more hp. In fact removing the precats
will
free the hp from the cat-back system. Before that the cat-back will
add
nothing but noise.
NA : Loss of backpressure may yield low end tourque but increase high
end
hp. Max gain around 10 - 15 hp max.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 01:17:08 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: High Flow Cat = Owl Hoot Gone
A couple weeks ago, installed a high flow cat. (Didn't change down pipe
and
everything else engine oriented remains stock)
I just noticed (finally this morning) the old Owl Hoot sound at ~ 3K
under
moderate acceleration I've had since the K&N filter upgrade 2 years
ago has
vanished.
I know there have been numerous discussions around this. Folks
playing with
various BOV's and such This 'hooter' elimination was an
unexpected side
benefit for me.
Just an FYI
Dan
Pearl White 1997 VR4 - Stock
RPS Carbon-Carbon Clutch;
TEIN Flex
w/EDFC;
Saner Performance Sway Bars (Front/Rear);
TEC Strut Tower bars
(Front/Rear);
3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms;
3SX Stainless-Steel
Braided Brake Lines;
3SX TT Downpipe + RT ULTRA Cat Combo;
K&N;
FlowMaster Catback;
K40 Radar; Enkie 18x9.5 RP01 w/Nitto NT 555 - 265/35
ZR18[/FONT][/SIZE][/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:43:24 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: High Flow Cat = Owl Hoot Gone
I'd be surprised if it is not comming back when the ambient changes.
The only relation a cat and intake have together is the amount of air
flow.
Since the stock cat isn't a big restriction if any - especially not
around
3k - the airflow stays the same. So there is no reason why the hooting
sound
is gone. But changing ambient is one of the most causes for the sound
to
dissapear ... but it is always comming back if the intake hasn't
changed.
Also an aftermarket BOV will definitely remove the sound as those BOV
are
clsoed and not a little open like the stock one (it has a hole in
the
middle). Simply but in a good holding screw and gone is the sound.
The
better is an aftermarket BOV.
------------------------------
We've been waiting for a manifold kit to appear that will let us run
16B
turbos, and we were prepared to pull the motor this weekend to deal
with
all the plumbing, but now there is some question as to whether the
supplier
will deliver anytime THIS CENTURY.
So, we are looking at 15G or similar turbos as our upgrade instead.
Question: If we are not replacing the exhaust manifolds, do we have to
pull
the engine to replace the turbos?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
------------------------------
We are getting ready to install turbos on the 94 VR4, and we may or may
not
pull the engine to do this (it kinda depends on whether or not we
are
getting custom manifolds and stuff. See next question.)
Should we do a compression test on the motor? (88,000 miles and runs like
a
scalded ape sumbitch with stock turbos..13.05 @105 mph)
Can we do it
while it sits on an engine stand, or should we do it while it
is still in the
car and can be warmed up (per recent posts)?
What about a leakdown
test?
I guess the question is: What tests should be run on the engine BEFORE
we
upgrade the turbos, and should we do them with the engine in or out of
the
car?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 02:20:12 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Compression test
You need to do it in the car to test by normal conventional
means...
It's not that hard to do, just remove the front three plugs, then
the
rear bank, just remove the plenum to get to...
I would highly recommend it... If you have a motor that is marginal
to
start, you never know what you might get once you start adding
more
boost or more airflow...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 01:53:49 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@mho.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade
Nope! I've done 2 td04 turbo swaps with the engine still in the car, only
problem you will run into
is the rear heatshield.
Donald Ashby
'93
3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
'92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!)
"Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 14:34:29 +0100
From: "Gebelius Mats" <
Mats.Gebelius@dotcom.se>
Subject:
Team3S: Some Cool vids from the swedish 3/S maniacs.
Here youŽll find some cool videos from the crazy sweeds.
Have fun waching.. :o)
/Mats Gebelius (Geban)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:07:24 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers
Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade
There's plenty of people who've replaced turbos without pulling the
engine.
Most people complain more about the rear one than the front one
though.
The front doesn't look that hard really. Check out the
following link for a
step-by-step on removing the front turbo.
http://www.omega-13.com/tech-corner/
There's two full pages to the
instructions with pictures to show you what
needs to be done. HTH.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:26:45 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Compression test
I'd definitely run a compression test. You can learn alot about the
internal health of your engine by doing one. If you want an accurate
compression test, you need to have the engine at operating temperature.
With that said, just try to get your tester on those rear bank plugs while the
engine is still at full operating temp. By the time you've removed
everything you need to remove, the engine's cooled down quite a bit.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:12:40 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: High Flow Cat = Owl Hoot Gone
Roger
Are your referring to ambient as in ambient air temperature? This
has
indeed dropped to Texas winter levels over the last week. Possibly
this is
contributing but over the past two years I had not noticed a
'seasonal' hoot
change.
Interesting - this Cat was the only thing I changed. I'll see what
happens
when the temperature rises again - which in Texas could be any day
now
Dan
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:19:56 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil cap leak?
Let us know what you find.
Your problem could be a leak from your
dipstick tube. Even if it is tight
on there, if under boost you have a
fair amount of blowby and pressurize the
crankcase, it can blow out the
dipstick and oil poops all over the place up
there. When you look under
hood, it may NOT be off/loose anymore because it
falls back into place, and
if you have a good PCV or Krankvent vacuum at
idle/cruise, it can suction the
dipstick back in so it is fully seated and
you don't realize that it pops out
under boost. Very sneaky
I used a pliers to SLIGHTLY crimp the top of
my dipstick tube so it holds on
better. Do NOT overdo it or it won't
fit back in. On my car it was hard to
find something to attach a spring
or whatever to hold it down; so I crimped
the tube.
I have had problems with an oil leak from the top of my motor in
the
vicinity of the throttlebody/front of rear valvecover
passengerside/maybe
intake manifold, that under boost leaks and sprays
air/oil on rear
valvecover, front of TB, passengerside of rear valvecover
area. On dyno I
stuck my head under there once and could hear/see an
air/oilstream coming up
from somewhere in the V of the engine/aforementioned
areas, but could not
figure out exactly where in the seconds I was under
there/could stand the
noise. I am wondering if it's from manifold
lifting at highest boost and
making air leak (but there is more oil than I'd
expect from intake
airstream) or from blowby pressurizing
crankcase/valvecovers (despite the
Krank Vent) or from the hose going to the
manifold-pressure side of the
Krank-vent (seems most likely).
Annoying. Been through different
valvecover gaskets, manifold gaskets,
put bigger bolts holding
upper-to-lower manifold, and the catchcan of the
Krank Vent is basically
dry.
I will have to stick my head under
there someday again on dyno, but with my
good shooting ear protection on
(GEEZ was it LOUD under there!!! HUH????)
From: "Walter Womack" <
chfmn@webtv.net>
> Hey guys;When I
got to work today I noticed smoke rolling out from under
> my hood.Upon
further inspection I found oil leaking out from under the
> oil
cap.Cleaned the oil and cap and reinstalled making certain that it
>
was tight. 8 hrs later I drove the car home and checked the cap again
>
and this time there was oil all around not just the gravity side.Engine
>
has 105k on it and has never leaked before.Could not find a "soft"gasket
>
or any vestiges of one in the cap.Should there be one or would replacing
>
the PCV valve help? ( Smoky in Vegas)
> 92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:16:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Removing Cats for more power...
HP..sure.
hassle..probly..eventually.
Gonna be in NV forever, you guarantee you wont sell the car to
someone
sometime who might need them?
If its notta -race- car..its not worth it.
Besides..you cannot guarantee NV will never have emissions testing,
the
laws are slowly creeping around.
Its one of those "Wow, I have more HP!" things..but, when/how often do
you
really need it, and what gain outside of saying you hvae more HP, does
it
buy you.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:40:44 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Removing Cats for more power...
Other than cost, is there any reason folks go to the trouble of
gutting
precats rather than replacing them with precat eliminators? How
hard would
it be to swap them out on the rear turbo?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
------------------------------
I noticed for the first time today that my car is getting a little hard
to
shift. It goes into 2nd and 3rd with a little resistance and a bit
of a
muted "thunk". I'm pushing the clutch in all the way.
What do you guys think?
Bob Guirlinger
92 VR-4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#350
***************************************