Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Saturday, August 3 2002   Volume 01 : Number 915




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:03:08 -0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3si.org

the problems with 3si.org apears to be a dsn problem.

You can get to 3si.org via http://151.203.209.219
or the message board via http://151.203.209.219/vbb/index.php

I'm not in the same state as the server and Stephan the hardware admin is
out of the country. This will be fixed as soon as possiable.

Please passs this on.

Alan


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:12:20 -0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3si.org

Early reports seem to indicate this is not 100% correct.
Seems I can get in fine, But, nobody else can.

I'll pass along updates as I find them out.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 7:03 PM
Subject: 3si.org


> the problems with 3si.org apears to be a dsn problem.
>
> You can get to 3si.org via http://151.203.209.219
> or the message board via http://151.203.209.219/vbb/index.php
>
> I'm not in the same state as the server and Stephan the hardware admin is
> out of the country. This will be fixed as soon as possiable.
>
> Please passs this on.
>
> Alan
>
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:58:46 -0400
From: "chris weil" <cweil@si.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bfg's

Michellins Pilot Sport A/S 245/40 YR18 -$262

Yokohama AVS 245/40 WR18-$167

Sumitomo HTR + 245/40 WR18-$133

All of them are Ultra High Performance All-Season tires



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 16:49:59 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Not holding boost

> I got my car back from being rebuilt about a month ago and looking to
> re-install the EVC. My problem is the car will boost to 11-12 psi
> (autometer boost gauge) but drop quickly to 5psi.

Off the top of my head, I would guess you have a intake leak or a leaking
BOV.  Maybe even a sticking waste gate.  Here are some things to do:

First, check all of your intake and IC pipes and fittings.

Then check your vacuum lines that go to your turbo's waste gate solenoids
and your boost solenoid.  Be sure they are routed correctly and not pinched.
It doesn't look like any are leaking since that would cause you to over
boost.

Also, which vacuum hose are you spliced into with your boost sensor?  Do you
feel the car slowing down as the boost drops?

I would consider building or buying an intake pressure tester.  You can find
instructions to build one at Jeff's page www.stealth316.com or you can buy
one from http://www.3sxperformance.com/ for $60.  You will have to have
access to a air tools type air supply.

Here are some numbers that I have from my turbos.  Maybe they will help you
to trouble shoot yours.

My 9b's can peak at 20 psi of boost.  This is with the waste gate vacuum
lines disconnected.

The waste gates regulating alone (without any boost controller or solenoid
controlling them) allows mine to boost to 7psi sustained to redline.

With the BOV control vacuum line off or with vacuum applied to it, max boost
was 4 psi with it staying between 3 and 4.  This keeps the BOV open or at
least makes it open very easily.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 17:56:11 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not holding boost

I'm going to try the pressure tester. I tapped into the thin (4mm?) hose
from the back of the throttle body to plenum. And yes the car definetly
gets slower as the boost droppes.

Curtis McConnell


- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken [mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 5:50 PM
To: Curtis McConnell; Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Not holding boost

> I got my car back from being rebuilt about a month ago and looking to
> re-install the EVC. My problem is the car will boost to 11-12 psi
> (autometer boost gauge) but drop quickly to 5psi.

Off the top of my head, I would guess you have a intake leak or a
leaking
BOV.  Maybe even a sticking waste gate.  Here are some things to do:

First, check all of your intake and IC pipes and fittings.

Then check your vacuum lines that go to your turbo's waste gate
solenoids
and your boost solenoid.  Be sure they are routed correctly and not
pinched.
It doesn't look like any are leaking since that would cause you to over
boost.

Also, which vacuum hose are you spliced into with your boost sensor?  Do
you
feel the car slowing down as the boost drops?

I would consider building or buying an intake pressure tester.  You can
find
instructions to build one at Jeff's page www.stealth316.com or you can
buy
one from http://www.3sxperformance.com/ for $60.  You will have to have
access to a air tools type air supply.

Here are some numbers that I have from my turbos.  Maybe they will help
you
to trouble shoot yours.

My 9b's can peak at 20 psi of boost.  This is with the waste gate vacuum
lines disconnected.

The waste gates regulating alone (without any boost controller or
solenoid
controlling them) allows mine to boost to 7psi sustained to redline.

With the BOV control vacuum line off or with vacuum applied to it, max
boost
was 4 psi with it staying between 3 and 4.  This keeps the BOV open or
at
least makes it open very easily.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 20:48:27 -0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3si.org

I'm posting this knowing that I'll probably get banned. But, the members of
Team 3S do need to know that their admins do not want this kind of
information passed to them. .

I realize that my post about the status of 3si.org is not "tech". But,
3si.org is one of the largest 3S related site (traffic wise) in the world.
To assume that the members of Team 3S would not care is very arrogant. I
would think with a topic of this type you'd allow the rules to be relaxed a
bit.

But, I guess the people that call this the nazi list are correct.

Alan

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Team3S-Admin" <Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3si.org


> This is not a tech topic (so it is against the rules), nor is it of
interest
> to 90% our members.  Please keep it private.  We are not a chat list.  If
you
> would like to announce something *way* off-topic like this, contact an
Admin
> and we will post, if appropriate.
>
> Thanks for respecting our rules!
>
> Bob Forrest
> Admin, Team3S
> www.Team3S.com (main site)
> www.Stealth-3000GT.st (mirror site)


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 18:16:29 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Bar installed (NT)...

I finished the installing the TEC Performance Strut Tower bar (front tower) on
my car and put up a web page documenting the procedure.  (Includes lots of
"pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each
one..." --thanks, Arlo!)  :-)  This is for Non-ECS, Non-Turbo (SOHC) models of
Stealth & 3000GT.  There's a quick summary, below.  The link is in our Team3S
FAQ Index Page, in the "Driving and Racing" section, or refer to the web page
directly for installation details:
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-StrutBar1.htm

Product Evaluation:

The TEC Performance Front Strut Tower Bar is every bit as solid as they claim.
It is well-made, impeccably finished in a thick powdercoating, and is
incredibly easy to install, even by someone with only minimal skills.

The improvement in high-speed handling is substantial.  Cornering is smoother,
with less "dip" in the hardest turns.  Body-flex is reduced significantly, as
well.  Previously, when I would enter a raised driveway, for example, or go up
on a berm during racing, you could actually hear the car "creak" a bit, as the
entire frame twisted slightly.  By coupling the front towers, a more rigid
engine "cage" is created apparently.  The car definitely feels more solid.

The only negative comment that I have is regarding the claim on the
www.3SXPerformance.com website, that "The end pieces not only attach with the
strut bolts, but angle down to rest against the strut frame/body itself".  On
my car, at least, they do not.  The passenger side of the bar has the angle
piece just barely touching the tower, while on the driver's side, it does not
touch at all.  I would have liked the fit to be perfect.  Oh, well, we'll see
what the folks at 3SXP have to say...


Best,
Forrest



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 19:06:45 -0700
From: "cris lamas" <bigcela@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: ECS

every now and then when im driving i notice that the ECS lights are flashing
tour and sport. i dont know why this happens but i think it has somthing to
do with the first gear? tour and sport continue to flash until i restart my
car. does enyone know why this happens? how do i fix it.
cris



_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:15:49 -0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Admin - OT: Re: Team3S: Re: 3si.org

Alan,

I sent you a reminder about our rules, and that you knowingly violated them.
Now you did it *again*, as well as publishing what had been a private note.  I
made the note private so as not to embarrass you, but you want "public"...?
You've got it.

Team3S is a worldwide group (in 45 countries) of members who happen to enjoy
our group's premise of providing *only* technical information, without all the
posturing and puffery that is found within some other 3S groups.  Nor are we
impressed at the massive wastes of bandwidth (and the interminable wait for
information, in between the "chaff") that is found on other websites and
lists.  We fully intend that Team3S will remain a group for "ladies and
gentlemen", which apparently has little importance to you.  Only those people
who have a problem with good manners and being polite to one another could
possibly refer to us a "nazis".  And only folks with abbreviated social skills
who have verbally attacked our policies *for no reason* have ever been
removed.  We are disappointed that you have chosen to join them, and to leave
Team3S.

We champion the existence and appreciate the value of other 3S websites.  In
fact, many Team3S members (and we Admins) have been instrumental in their
formation, so of course we support them.  When 3Si.org went down a couple of
years ago, I communicated with Eric Lotter to not only post a notice on
Team3S, but to put up a temporary website for them, as well.  Which we did,
until 3Si was back on-line.  So your accusation is as bogus as your attitude.
It's some of the *people* who frequent other groups who are unwelcome here.
If you don't respect the preferences of our members to have a technical list,
and a fast-loading, totally free website, you needn't remain.  As you said,
you'll be happier elsewhere, as will we at your exit.

Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S
www.Team3S.com (main site)
www.Stealth-3000GT.st (mirror site)


> I'm posting this knowing that I'll probably get banned. But, the members of
Team 3S do need to know that their admins do not want this kind of information
passed to them. .
> I realize that my post about the status of 3si.org is not "tech". But,
3si.org is one of the largest 3S related site (traffic wise) in the world. To
assume that the members of Team 3S would not care is very arrogant. I would
think with a topic of this type you'd allow the rules to be relaxed a bit.
> But, I guess the people that call this the nazi list are correct.
> Alan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Team3S-Admin" <Team3S@bobforrest.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3si.org
>
> > This is not a tech topic (so it is against the rules), nor is it of
interest to 90% our members.  Please keep it private.  We are not a chat list.
If you would like to announce something *way* off-topic like this, contact an
Admin and we will post, if appropriate.
> > Thanks for respecting our rules!
> > Bob Forrest
> > Admin, Team3S
> > www.Team3S.com (main site)
> > www.Stealth-3000GT.st (mirror site)




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 00:45:18 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS intercoolers and hard pipes upgrade

Has anyone done the intercooler upgrade themselves?  Do the upgrades
bolt up nicely or are custom brackets necessary?  They came from a first
gen VR-4 but I don't know if the brackets are still on that car.  Also,
is removal of the front bumper necessary or just tons easier?

And the only piece that troubles me is the hard pipe to the rear turbo.
The stock pipe fits inside the turbo outlet with the help of an o-ring.
The hard pipe is either the same size as the turbo outlet or a little
larger.  Is the silicone coupler what is supposed to join them?

www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/HKS/

- --Flash!



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 22:50:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: buzzing noise

  Thanks for the reply guys. The buzz noise appear to
happens on day time only. The AC/Heather is off. Turn
signal lights seems o.k. It starts buzzing when the
car run on an uneven road. Then sounds more often when
I hit the gas pedal. And finally keep buzzing all the
time until I stop the engine and restart. Then it may
go away or start buzzing again on a 50/50 chance.
  For the ECS, I have it check by another garage and
he said the shock on the passage side are leaking
(front & rear). He gave me a quote for $1200 4 shocks
all together. Is it reasonable ? But he got no clue
for the buzzing noise.
    Anthony

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 07:32:39 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S: caliper spreader

Can anyone recommend a decent spreader tool that works for our
calipers and won't break the bank?  Thanks.

- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 02:36:26 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS

I have to jump in here and give my 2 cents...  the ABS controller
(brain, ecu, whatever), is located somewhere where water won't be
getting to it...  It's under the passenger side panel in the rear, right
in front of the speaker... 

- -Cody

> As far as the ABS goes,  the Mitsu dealer told me that the ABS was
exposed
> to water that got inside the computer and the Modulator. I don't
> understand
> how that could have happened unless it was faulty to begin with.
> Does anyone know if the ABS assembly  from a 94 Stealth RT TT is
> compatible
> with the 97 VR4?  I was contacted by someone that mentioned that they
have
> this part available. If not I will give M&S a call and see what they
have.
> Thanks for your help!
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 03:47:05 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: caliper spreader

Get a big set of slip-joint pliers.
Work on one pad at a time (leave the other pad in place to keep the pistons from coming out)
Open the bleeder valve to take the pressure off.
Use the pliers to squeeze the pad against the pistons (remember, one side at a time) until the pistons are completely compressed.
Change the pad.
Move to the other pad and repeat.

If you take both pads out and try to push the pistons in, the other pistons will push out on you. By opening the bleeder valve, you can almost push the pistons in with your fingers.

Be sure to bleed the brakes afterward.

Rich/slow old poop

At 07:32 AM 8/3/02 +0100, Jim Matthews wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a decent spreader tool that works for our
>calipers and won't break the bank?  Thanks.
>
>
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 10:17:23 EDT
From: Jawscardodger@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: Car will not start. Help?

My Ac /alternator belt broke and my car stopped running. The engine turns
over but won't start. I have a 1993 vr4.The timing belt jumped and I reset it
by lining up the marks. I checked the crank angle blade and it looks good.
The car is getting spark. I was told that if the crank angle or cam sensor
where damaged there wouldn't be any spark. Is there any reason why the car
won't run without this belt? What should I check next And how should I check
it? Thank Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 07:34:05 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: buzzing noise

It may have something to do with the ECS problem, maybe a motor
in one of the shocks is  the problem. You could remove the ECS
fuse and see if anything changes.
You still haven't told us where the sound is coming from. If you stop
the car and leave the engine running does it still make the sound ??
If so you should be able to track down the area of the sound.

        Jim Berry

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Tse" <tse1631@yahoo.com>
To: <Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 10:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: buzzing noise


>   Thanks for the reply guys. The buzz noise appear to
> happens on day time only. The AC/Heather is off. Turn
> signal lights seems o.k. It starts buzzing when the
> car run on an uneven road. Then sounds more often when
> I hit the gas pedal. And finally keep buzzing all the
> time until I stop the engine and restart. Then it may
> go away or start buzzing again on a 50/50 chance.
>   For the ECS, I have it check by another garage and
> he said the shock on the passage side are leaking
> (front & rear). He gave me a quote for $1200 4 shocks
> all together. Is it reasonable ? But he got no clue
> for the buzzing noise.
>     Anthony
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 07:39:41 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: caliper spreader

I just use a channel lock pliers [ slip joint pliers in generic terms ].
I open the bleed nipple and then use the channel locks to pinch one
pad back at a time --- a piece of cloth will prevent scratching the
caliper although the coating on my Big Reds doesn't seem to mind.
You don't even need to bleed the brakes if you're careful to close the
nipple without releasing pressure on the pads.

        Jim Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 11:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: caliper spreader


> Can anyone recommend a decent spreader tool that works for our
> calipers and won't break the bank?  Thanks.
>
> - --
> Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
> mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
> http://www.the-matthews.com
>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>       http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
> Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
> Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:49:58 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS intercoolers and hard pipes upgrade

> Has anyone done the intercooler upgrade themselves?  Do the upgrades
> bolt up nicely or are custom brackets necessary?  They came from a first
> gen VR-4 but I don't know if the brackets are still on that car.  Also,
> is removal of the front bumper necessary or just tons easier?

The HKS kit bolts right up.

However, if I had to do it again, I would get the Dynamic Racing side mount
intercooler upgrades instead.  Cheaper and more surface area than the HKS
kit (which I have).  Removal of the bumper cover is pretty much required to
do it right and not scratch the heck out of the bumper cover.

> And the only piece that troubles me is the hard pipe to the rear turbo.
> The stock pipe fits inside the turbo outlet with the help of an o-ring.
> The hard pipe is either the same size as the turbo outlet or a little
> larger.  Is the silicone coupler what is supposed to join them?

The HKS pipes work exactly as stock for the rear turbo connection.  If you
pick other pipes, it may vary.  The HKS pipes don't look very great, either.
They are powder coated black, but are easily scratched.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 09:47:52 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: buzzing noise

If the buzzing noise is coming from the right front of the car (passenger side), it could be the ABS pump. I know all about that sound. At least yours shuts off. Mine runs forever.

As for the leaking shocks, $1200 seems a bit steep. Replacment struts should be quite a bit less than that, and any muffler/brake shop can put them in for you at a reasonable cost.

Go to http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp.
They have a set of four KYB (non-ECS) struts listed for $359.

Rich/slow old poop

>>   Thanks for the reply guys. The buzz noise appear to
>> happens on day time only. The AC/Heather is off. Turn
>> signal lights seems o.k. It starts buzzing when the
>> car run on an uneven road. Then sounds more often when
>> I hit the gas pedal. And finally keep buzzing all the
>> time until I stop the engine and restart. Then it may
>> go away or start buzzing again on a 50/50 chance.
>>   For the ECS, I have it check by another garage and
>> he said the shock on the passage side are leaking
>> (front & rear). He gave me a quote for $1200 4 shocks
>> all together. Is it reasonable ? But he got no clue
>> for the buzzing noise.
>>     Anthony
>>
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:28:36 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: HKS intercoolers and hard pipes upgrade

Thanks, Matt.  That eases tension a little.  But I must have a different
setup than you.  As you can see in the webpage of pictures - the HKS
pipes are white and not black.  And thanks for the tip about Dynamic
Racing ones first but this set cost me nothing except the trouble of
piecing it all together.  I didn't have to remove them, ship them, or
anything.

I am VERY happy to have these and only be out my time and effort.  I
think street value is $1,200-$1,800 on these babies (or they were when
new).  Some of the pipes even have heat wrap on them to keep as much
heat away from the pipes as possible.

And I put the rear pipe on (the one that comes up from the rear turbo,
across the rear manifold, and to the right of the plenum) and the ID of
these HKS pipes is nearly equal to the OD of the stock pipes.  So now
you see the problem.  The stock OD is about 1-5/8" from the blurry
picture and the HKS ID is at least 1-3/4" so I am trying to see how to
connect them since this HKS pipe just slides over the rear turbo outlet
like it isn't even there.

I just realized the problem.  The donor car had larger than stock
turbos.  I don't know if there is more than one HKS kit and I don't know
where to look if anywhere for numbers on this set.  Would there be any
harm to connect with a silicone coupler from a slightly smaller outlet
to a slightly larger inlet?  Shouldn't be.  I just need to find a
silicone coupler that is pliable enough to mate to both the turbo exit
and the hard pipe inlet.  I haven't see too many couplers like that as
they are always the same diameter on each end.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 10:50

The HKS kit bolts right up.

However, if I had to do it again, I would get the Dynamic Racing side
mount intercooler upgrades instead.  Cheaper and more surface area than
the HKS kit (which I have).  Removal of the bumper cover is pretty much
required to do it right and not scratch the heck out of the bumper
cover.

The HKS pipes work exactly as stock for the rear turbo connection.  If
you pick other pipes, it may vary.  The HKS pipes don't look very great,
either. They are powder coated black, but are easily scratched.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:50:16 -0400
From: "chris weil" <cweil@si.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS

Now I'm even more confused than I was before!
 I brought the car  to another mechanic and he told me that he didn't have
the equipment to check the problem. I might just bring it to another Mitsu
dealer and see what they say. I'm not about to spend the 3K that they want
to repair the problem because in the 4 years that I've owned the car I think
the ABS kicked in 3x!!! If the ABS is definitely shot then I'm going to look
for used parts and either attempt to repair it myself or bring it someone
who is trustworthy.

Chris
97VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Furman, Russell'" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>; "'chris weil'"
<cweil@si.rr.com>; <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 3:36 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS


> I have to jump in here and give my 2 cents...  the ABS controller
> (brain, ecu, whatever), is located somewhere where water won't be
> getting to it...  It's under the passenger side panel in the rear, right
> in front of the speaker...
>
> -Cody
>
> > As far as the ABS goes,  the Mitsu dealer told me that the ABS was
> exposed
> > to water that got inside the computer and the Modulator. I don't
> > understand
> > how that could have happened unless it was faulty to begin with.
> > Does anyone know if the ABS assembly  from a 94 Stealth RT TT is
> > compatible
> > with the 97 VR4?  I was contacted by someone that mentioned that they
> have
> > this part available. If not I will give M&S a call and see what they
> have.
> > Thanks for your help!
> >
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 10:45:20 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS

At 11:50 AM 8/3/02 -0400, chris weil wrote:
>Now I'm even more confused than I was before!

Seems like we need an ABS fix-it page. Dealers certainly don't know what's going on, nor do most brake shops. As always, we are on our own, and have to rely on the expertise of this list.

Perhaps one of the web wizards could set up a FAQ/fix it section, and we can all contribute what little we know about ABS.

I'm in the process of trying to figure out my always-running ABS pump, and will be happy to contribute whatever I find. When I asked the question last week, I got a half-dozen different things to check from the friendly folks on this list.

For example, Greg Gonzales told me about his failed brake booster line with check valve, and even sent a photo of it. Greg said that his ABS pump ran all the time until he replaced the $18 hose. There's a solution we could add to the page right away.

Rich/slow old poop
ABS pump runs and runs and runs...


>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:01:23 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: ABS

My 94's ABS pump did this once, I had to get a wrench and undo the fuse for
ABS to make it stop.
Replaced the fuse later on, and it has never reoccurred...I don't know why
either.  This is a good
thing for us to start a page or topic about, sounds like a few people
had/have it, and the pump
sure is expensive.
Jack T.
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> 'we need an ABS fix-it page.'
> I'm trying to figure out my always-running ABS pump.
> Rich/slow old poop



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 12:01:08 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: ABS

That's the SECOND person to tell me this fix. I destroyed my fusible link getting it out (I didn't know it bolted in), so now I can't wait to try a new one.

Rich/slow old poop
ABS pump runs and runs and runs...

At 12:01 PM 8/3/02 -0500, xwing wrote:
>My 94's ABS pump did this once, I had to get a wrench and undo the fuse for
>ABS to make it stop.
>Replaced the fuse later on, and it has never reoccurred...I don't know why
>either. 
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:37:35 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: ABS

> My 94's ABS pump did this once, I had to get a wrench and
> undo the fuse for ABS to make it stop.  Replaced the fuse later
> on, and it has never reoccurred...I don't know why either.

My Eclipse did the same thing, after driving through a heavy rainstorm.  I
assumed that a connection somewhere had gotten wet and shorted, causing the
pump relay to be energized all the time.  Maybe just check the connectors on
the pump itself and the relays to make sure they are clean and dry.  A
little dielectric grease may be a good idea on those contacts while you have
them apart.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 20:54:04 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: ABS

Let me be the third to tell you the same... One night on my '93, it
stuck on, and I, like you, totally screwed up the fuse....  Well, once I
got it back together, it has worked fine since...  I did develop a leak
out of one of the sides of the pump, at which I found a used pump for
$200 at a local junk yard...

- -Cody
**disabled ABS mod - TMO datalogger constantly plugged in...

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 12:01 PM
To: xwing; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: ABS

That's the SECOND person to tell me this fix. I destroyed my fusible
link getting it out (I didn't know it bolted in), so now I can't wait to
try a new one.

Rich/slow old poop
ABS pump runs and runs and runs...

At 12:01 PM 8/3/02 -0500, xwing wrote:
>My 94's ABS pump did this once, I had to get a wrench and undo the fuse
for
>ABS to make it stop.
>Replaced the fuse later on, and it has never reoccurred...I don't know
why
>either. 
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #915
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