Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, June 12
2002 Volume 01 : Number
867
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:49:58 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pressure regulator options/costs
All -
I'm in need
of a new fuel pressure regulator. So, I'm going through the
standard
OEM vs. Aftermarket debate on what to replace it with. Cost, of
course,
is a consideration, but having an adjustable FPR would be uber-cool.
What
does the stock FPR cost from Satan? The only aftermarket option
I've
seen is the SX adjustable FPR, but it looks like that requires an extra
$300
of hardware to hook up the $170 FPR. Are there any options that
can install
on the stock fuel rails/lines without tons of expensive
mods?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:33:24
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Update on my incidious little
problem:
Last night I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge. It wasn't
too hard; the most
gut wrenching part was cutting the high pressure fuel line
to tap in the
T-fitting. I used my high tech pressurized fuel line
adjustment tool: a
Ginsu steak knife. :)
As I've
mentioned previously, my gut feeling was that the fuel pressure
regulator was
faulty. The fuel pressure gauge confirmed my suspicions.
With the FPR
vacuum line disconnected, the fuel pressure was 37 PSI. This
is a
little low, as stock should be 43 PSI. When I connected the FPR
vacuum
line to manifold vacuum at idle the fuel pressure dropped to 32 PSI,
which
is about right considering the low base fuel pressure.
Unfortunately, the
gauge line wasn't long enough to read the gauge while
driving under boost
conditions. To simulate boost, I hooked up the
outlet side of a hand vacuum
pump to the FPR vacuum line, and used it to make
the FPR "see" boost.
Eureka! The fuel pressure never raised a hair over
37 PSI, even when I put
in enough pressure to make the vacuum pump fitting
pop off!! The fuel
pressure should have risen as I pumped in pressure
to the vacuum line.
So, I'm pretty satisfied that I've found the culprit
of my leanness. The
scary thing about this situation is that there were
no signs from the car
that anything was wrong. If I hadn't been
monitoring my O2 sensor levels, I
never would have known about the
problem...until a WOT run on a cool evening
suddenly put me in the market for
a rebuild. Admittedly, my Supra fuel pump
might put more stress on the
FPR, but it's still a little disheartening that
it would fail with no
warning.
So now I need a new fuel pressure regulator.
Anybody know how much the
stock FPR costs? Any recommendations on
aftermarket options?
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:05:29
-0500
From: Michael Provence <
MProvence@gencofcu.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
I was given similar information from a
dealership. They use a large pry bar
for the tensioner and an air
impact wrench to overcome the pulley (spin it
fast enough that it will
tighten). Of course this requires an air
compressor. Apparently
they do this on a regular basis but if this does not
seem advisable LET ME
KNOW. I am gearing up for the big 120k service.
Nothing like a seized
ac compressor to put the fear in you.
Mike
94 3000GT
NA
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:23:11
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for
removing the harmonic
balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an
impact--but for torquing it
with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If
you don't have an impact,
then you'll certainly want it for removal as
well.
Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them from
Miller
Special Tools (1-800-801-5420,
www.spxmiller.com). There prices
and
availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner, MD998767
is
$16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹ (they call it
a
spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about a year
ago.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
95
VR4
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> To: "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm getting ready
to do the 60k on my vr4. When I was buying the
> special tools from mitsu,
they told me that I don't really need the end
> yoke holder and that their
techs don't use it. I didn't want to spend
> $50 on a tool that I won't
need, but we all know how accurate and
> knowledgeable satan's cronies
are... so could anyone confirm or deny
> that? Do I need to run out and
get it, or am I fine w/o it.
>
> Thanks,
> Alex.
> '95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:10:12
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Fuel pressure regulator options/costs
> What does the
stock FPR cost from Satan?
The part numbers for the FPR for all years of
3/Ss is:
MD164615
MD322989
They are both listed as applicable
for all years. Norco Mitsu has them
listed for about $58.03
(pre-discount). Rockville lists them as a special
order item with no
price online.
- --Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:19:21
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
> Rich will probably pipe in here. I watched him do
a 60k
> service, and as I recall, the special socket tool that
>
has the two pins that engage in the tensioner is MANDATORY.
IIRC, the
yoke is the tool that holds the crankshaft/pulley in place while
you tighten
or loosen the 22mm nut on the end. The other tool (tensioner
adjustment
tool) is pretty much mandatory as much as I can see.
So yeah, I can
see how you can get the crankshaft pulley nut OFF (bracing a
wrench and using
the starter) without the yoke, but getting it ON would be
interesting as it
requires over 100ft*lbs of torque and the crankshaft tends
to rotate when you
push on it :-)
- --Erik
P.S. Speaking of having the
proper tools... last night, I witnessed a
fellow 3/S member (who shall remain
nameless) use a steak knife to cut his
[pressurized] high pressure fuel line
in order to splice in a tee to install
a fuel pressure gauge. "Don't
try this at home," but it went without
incident.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:01:55
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Shocks
Hey all,
I just got an Eibach Pro-kit, and I
was wondering if anyone had any
suggestions on new shocks to go with the new
springs that I am putting on.
I have looked at a lot, but I was just curious
if there is a right "match"
to go with the
eibachs?
Thanks,
Brent H.
96' Stealth(base)
K&N
FIPK
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:33:50
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MDP????
Does anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential
(P)ressure sensor does?
I just recently had the CE light come on and
expecting the O2 sensor
malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas
recirculation malfunction. Just
wondering if it something I can live
with or is it something that needs
immediate
attention?
TIA,
Francis
'96 RT/TT
List of mods in case
it is relevant:
- -- Apex AVC-R
- -- Apex SAFC
- -- Apex EL Boost
Gauge
- -- RC ENG 550's
- -- 2 ARM-1 A/F Gauges
- -- Spearco WI
- --
Magnacore wires
- -- RPS TCC
- -- HKS MegaFlow intake
- -- Freeflow
precats
- -- Goodridge Steel Braided Brake Lines
- -- Porterfield
Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors w/R4S pads
- -- 1G DSM BOV
- -- Ground Control
springs
- -- Supra Fuel Pump
- -- Stillen DP
- -- Borla
Exhaust
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:39:25
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: MDP????
It sounds like something "Ruiner" had a problem
with. I search 3si for it.
I'm pretty sure it's the same thing.
Dan
Johnson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
To:
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 11, 2002 6:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: MDP????
> Does
anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential (P)ressure
sensor
does?
> I just recently had the CE light come on and expecting
the O2 sensor
> malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas recirculation
malfunction. Just
> wondering if it something I can live with or is
it something that needs
> immediate attention?
>
>
TIA,
>
> Francis
> '96 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 00:41:40
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MDP????
P1400 has nothing to do with the MAP sensor as it's
the EGR error. Often
wrong fuel settings caus this as in closed loop the
system knows when the
EGR valve is open and it measures the difference in O2
reading. It now sees
no difference and therefore assumes that there is
something wrong with the
EGR system.
You must search in the area of
the rear O2 sensor up to your fuel settings.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:03:45
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
I purchased an eibach pro-kit
last week, and now I want to have them put on.
I went to one shop that said
that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small of a spring, and then I
went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars, and they said that it
would take 20 man-hours and cost 600-800
dollars!! I feel this is WAY
too much money for this job...and that didn't
include a $120 alignment
fee!!!!! I am basically all out of options
here.... what should it cost
for someone to do this? and how long should it
take? I also have no
idea where to even start looking to have this done....
looks like I am going
to have to travel to a bigger city.... please
help.
Desperate,
Brent H.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:10:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
On the cars I have
here..the lowered spriongs didnt need much
compressing..if any at all, to get
the nut started on the strut..was
pretty much full-extension once the wheels
were off the ground.
YMMV.
On Tue, 11 Jun 2002, Hawkinson's
wrote:
> I purchased an eibach pro-kit last week, and now I want to
have them put on.
> I went to one shop that said that his spring
compressor doesn't fit that
> small of a spring, and then I went to a rod
and restoration place that
> lowers cars, and they said that it would take
20 man-hours and cost 600-800
> dollars!! I feel this is WAY too
much money for this job...and that didn't
> include a $120 alignment
fee!!!!! I am basically all out of options
> here.... what should it
cost for someone to do this? and how long should it
> take? I also
have no idea where to even start looking to have this done....
> looks
like I am going to have to travel to a bigger city.... please help.
>
> Desperate,
>
> Brent H.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 19:15:01
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MDP????
Roger,
That's what I thought at first, EGR
problem, but after looking at the manual
and posting some questions on the
OBDII discussion board they said it was
the Manifold Pressure Sensor, a silly
little thing that sits on top of the
intake plenum. I just replaced the
downstream O2 sensors and still receive
this error.
Do you mean
the front O2 sensors? Those are the ones that are involved
with the
fuel settings, right? I received this error before switching to
550's
and the S-AFC, so I guess I am confused as to the cause.
Any
thoughts?
Thanks,
Francis
96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 5:42 PM
To:
Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: MDP????
P1400 has nothing to do
with the MAP sensor as it's the EGR error. Often
wrong fuel settings caus
this as in closed loop the system knows when the
EGR valve is open and it
measures the difference in O2 reading. It now sees
no difference and
therefore assumes that there is something wrong with the
EGR
system.
You must search in the area of the rear O2 sensor up to your fuel
settings.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:25:17
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Direct Hits Ignition
Looks like no one else has tried Direct
Hits yet so I will be the first
guinne pig. I ordered it today and
expect it in some time next week.
Unfortunately since I am doing multiple
mods at once, I won't be able to
isolate the exact amount of improvement (if
any) that the capacitor system
gives. I will report on any changes in
my gas milage for sure.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump,
Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
Apexi SAFC, DSM 450 cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:24:24
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: My Engine Story...
Ok, gotta update everyone on everything that's
going on with my car...
Approximately 2 months ago, I was visiting my
parents for Easter
weekend... Went and played around with a friend and
his mustang on the
streets... Parked the car that night, and everything
was fine. Woke up
the next morning, clouds of steam came pouring
out. Ok, fine, bad head
gasket - that's not too hard to fix. I
take it to a local, trusted
mechanic, as I have to fly back to San Antonio to
work. Ok, sooo....
They take the heads to the machine shop to have them
checked, and what
do they find - a cracked head... Ok, sooo... The
search is on for a
late '93 rear head. I find a pair of ported, bare
heads for sale, and
get them ordered. Shipping company decides to set
them aside for a good
week, totally forgetting to actually deliver
them. Ok, so they get
delivered, and everything is put back
together. I plan to fly on a
Tuesday to pick up the car, and that was
also the day they had planned
on finishing it. Well, my little brother
goes to pick up the car, just
as I am stepping on the plane to Houston (had
to change flights to get
out of SA late). He calls me, and I check my
voicemail upon arrival in
Houston. It's ticking... OK, its just the
lifters... no, its ticking
BAD... Ok, they screwed up the timing belt
when they reassembled it...
well... maybe... not sure... I get in
town late, and go to the shop
first thing in the morning to check out the
car, laptop in hand with all
the service manuals, etc. Before even
starting the car, I check the
timing - its fine... Ok... So, I
start it up - car sounds fine...
Hmmm.... weird... no ticking... I rev it up
a little, and what do I
hear??? WHAP WHAP WHAP... etc... you get the
point... Rod knock is a
lovely sound isn't it??? Ok, so, best we
can figure, with the cracked
head, is too much coolant leaked into the head,
and when the car was
started, it hydrolocked that one cylinder putting
tremendous strain on
the bottom end...
And now I've got the
wrong motor sitting here... Please someone buy
it... I don't feel like
shipping it back... lol... oh well... Anyways,
that's my sob
story... on the other hand, I now have 3 extra, good
heads, one cracked
head, and one DOHC NA block with a spun bearing....
my oh my... what
fun... The new motor is again on its way, and will be
installed in the
next week or so...
- -Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:48:48
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
> I
purchased an eibach pro-kit last week, and now I want to have them put
on. I
went to one shop that said that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small
of a spring, and then I went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars,
and they said that it would take 20 man-hours and cost
600-800
dollars!! I feel this is WAY too much money for this job...and
that didn't
include a $120 alignment fee!!!!! I am basically all out of
options
here.... what should it cost for someone to do this? and how long
should it
take? I also have no idea where to even start looking to have
this done....
looks like I am going to have to travel to a bigger city....
please help.
> Desperate,
> Brent H.
-
---------------------->
You're right - that is a ridiculous amount of
money; it's not a tough job,
but it's not that easy, either. Your
small town has one advantage - they
are charging $30 - $40 per hour. I
got mine done at a Dodge dealer 3 years
ago and it was 6-7 hours (but @
$80+/hr!). They charged ~$500 (including
other small work) for all 4
springs, but then they gave me a 15-20% Team3S
discount. The tab (with
tax) was under $500, 3 yrs ago, so it will cost a
few more bucks at a big
city dealer in today's dollars. You might save ~$100
or so by going to a
small shop in your town (not the one who claimed 20
hours!), but they won't
get it right without the manual...
BTW... $120 for a *quality*
alignment (if that includes high-speed wheel
balancing) is a steal! I
pay ~$250 and it is *worth every penny* to have it
done right(!). Check
out
www.customalignment.com for
info on how it's done
by a top performance shop. If that $120 is for
similar service, you're in
luck. You'd be wasting your money taking any
3S car to a budget alignment
place - that's like buying a Tiffany diamond
ring and getting it resized at
K-Mart. ;-)
Important notes on
Eibach Pro-Kit install (redux) - I gave you most of this
when I posted an
answer to you on May 25th (see Digest #861, on our
Archive
Page):
1) Even the dealer (who should have known better)
ruined my adjustment
bolts. The bolt heads are elliptical, and should
NOT be held with a vise
grip (or other). The elliptical heads are used
to adjust the camber - if
they ruin them, it will take a couple of days to
get replacements from
Mitsu/Dodge. Wherever you get the job done, ask
for the old bolts if they
charge you for replacements. If the bolt
heads are destroyed, refuse to pay
for them, since that will have been their
fault. Cover your ass and explain
that up front - no matter which shop
you use.
2) The only way to get your rear camber back to spec is to
"elongate" (NOT
"enlarge"!) the rear mounting holes, *horizontally outward*,
by 1/8" to
3/16". I posted the URL for the diagram in Digest
#861. I don't want to
suck up list bandwidth repeating something I've
already posted many times.
Go to our Search Page. Do a search on
"Eibach Nightmare" and read about all
that I went through. Having this
info "under your belt", hopefully you can
avoid the pitfalls, and find a shop
with a reasonable price on the install.
Good
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 19:57:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Is this spark blowout?
Hello everyone!
I have got my alky
injection up and running well, and
PocketLogger keeping an eye out.
Well, I figured
that, since my turbos can't push more than the alky
can
handle, why not just crank up the boost controller
so I can get the best
spool/boost I can.
Well, after hitting 1.35bar, I realized that
something
isn't quite right. Not only did the car feel like it
shut
down, I can't figure how I'm getting 24psi out of
stock turbos!
So,
can someone please...
Q1: Tell me what the max boost with stock
9B's is?
Q2: Describe what spark blowout
feels/looks(log)
like?
My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2 sensor falls off
from
.94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily, but there
is only like
1-2 counts of knock.
Thanks all in advance!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl
White Stealth R/T TT
AVC-R, Alky injection, K&N, HKS exhaust, SSBOV,
and
heavy foot are my relevant mods
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:18:33
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
> Well, after hitting 1.35bar, I
realized that something
> isn't quite right. Not only did the car
feel like it
> shut down, I can't figure how I'm getting 24psi out
of
> stock turbos!
You can get high boost on the stock turbos
momentarily around 3000-3500 RPM
where the motor isn't flowing that much air
yet.
> So, can someone please...
>
> Q1: Tell me
what the max boost with stock 9B's is?
At what RPM? It depends on
load on the motor, RPM, etc. At 2500-3000 RPM
maybe 25 psi. At
7200 RPM maybe 8-12 psi, depending on various factors.
> Q2:
Describe what spark blowout feels/looks(log)
> like?
Like the motor
is missing. Usually you feel little vibrations in the
power
output.
> My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2 sensor falls off
from
> .94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily, but there
> is
only like 1-2 counts of knock.
Sounds more like you are hitting fuel
cut. You can dump as much alcohol in
there as you want to prevent knock
and provide additional fuel, but the ECU
is still seeing all the airflow and
is going too far off its fuel map where
it initiates fuel cut to protect
against overboost. Solution is to go to
bigger injectors and a fuel
controller, or limit boost in the area where you
are hitting fuel
cut.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 23:24:40
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
>My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2
sensor falls off from
>..94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily, but
there
>is only like 1-2 counts of knock.
Welcome to the fuel
cutoff!
(You forgot to upgrage your fuel
system)
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 23:28:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
>My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2
sensor falls off from
>..94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily,
but there
>is only like 1-2 counts of knock.
Welcome to the
fuel cutoff!
(You forgot to upgrage your fuel system)
>AVC-R,
Alky injection, K&N, HKS exhaust, SSBOV, and
>heavy foot are my
relevant mods
Need to gowngrade that foot until you get the fuel system
up to snuff!
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 02:40:42
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
HELP!
My friend and I are haplessly trying to
install the AVC-R and it really
isn't working. We thought we had it
figured out per the instructions,
but then it clicked that the car has two
wastegates and two of just
about everything else the manual tells us to hook
it up to. Can anyone
please tell me how to install it
step-by-step? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
-
-Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:15:19
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Not to be an ass Brad.... but if this is
your first "major mod" you really
picked a fawker ;)
Ok now to
be helpful, you want to T into the feed hose for the BOV and run
one end to
the pressure sensor on the AVCR (looks like a 1/2 moon with a
metal nipple
sticking off.
Do you want the ability to run stock boost by turning
off the AVCR? Reason
I ask there are 2 ways to install the bish and
they are slightly different
from each other depending on what you are trying
to accomplish.........
Oh yeah if you have not upgraded the fuel
system and are not running WAI
(Water/Alkie Injection) DO NOT run over
13.5-14 psi or will break something.
Also worth noting if you plan
on drag racing or racing the car period
replace your engine mounts, from my
experiance they shit the bed after about
30-40 passes. Especially if
you are pullin 1.80 or lower 60ft times
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay [mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Wed
6/12/2002 5:40 AM
To: 3SRacers; Team3S
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Apex'i
AVC-R
HELP!
My friend and I are haplessly trying to install the
AVC-R and it really
isn't working. We thought we had it figured out
per the instructions,
but then it clicked that the car has two wastegates
and two of just
about everything else the manual tells us to hook it up
to. Can anyone
please tell me how to install it step-by-step?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:32:24
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Just hook up the valve in between the red marked
line comming from the
y-pipe and your ok. Have a look on my 3000GT pages
under
www.rtec.ch and
check out the DSBC
Installation Page that is very similar.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 02:40 12.06.2002 -0700,
Bradford J. Gay wrote:
>HELP!
>
>My friend and I are haplessly
trying to install the AVC-R and it really
>isn't working. We thought
we had it figured out per the instructions,
>but then it clicked that the
car has two wastegates and two of just
>about everything else the manual
tells us to hook it up to. Can anyone
>please tell me how to install
it step-by-step? Any help is
appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>-Brad
> 97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:42:24
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Consumption in DOHC NA 6G72
Posted for a friend - I will
relay all responses to him...
Problem Description:
-
---------------------------------------------
(INTERMITTENT!!!!) oil
burning. Slightly on startup until
warm but not consistently. No
significant oil burning
on the whole, maybe a quart every 4-5 tanks of gas
or
so. When the engine is hot and I am sitting in stop and
go
traffic on the freeway, if I am idling for a long
time, when I finally get a
break in traffic, I sometimes
get copious amounts of blue smoke. This
never happens
unless the engine is good and warm. Someone suggested
it may be valve guides, but it doesn't blow blue smoke
on deceleration
or coming down a long, steep incline
when manifold vacuum is high.
Rings would be indicated
by high oil consumption and consistent smoke.
Someone
else suggested PCV. It's not that because replacing it
didn't fix anything.
-
----------------------------------------------
Any ideas or suggestions before he starts replacing valve-related
stuff?
Thanks,
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 14:17:18
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
>>Welcome to the fuel
cutoff!
>> (You forgot to upgrage your fuel system)
Fuel cut has
nothing to do with the fuel system! Well not directly.
Indirectly, when
larger injectors are installed and the stock ECM is retained,
an airflow
signal conditioner (AFC, ARC2, VPC) reduces the airflow signal
(compared to
actual) and this reduces chances for fuel cut (item 2 below).
The ECM,
not the fuel injectors or fuel pump, causes fuel cut by temporarily
halting
the injector driver signal (the 0 ms reading on the logger). The ECM
does
this in response to the following 3 situations.
1) The engine speed exceeds
~7500 RPM (overrun protection).
2) The A/N (basically airflow per cylinder
per revolution) reaches or exceeds
the prescribed value (overboost
protection).
3) The throttle plate is closed during engine deceleration
above a certain
speed (improves emissions and fuel economy).
More
discussion on my web page below:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmFWIW,
the stock boost gauge reports A/N, not boost (despite the markings).
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
"Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June
11, 2002 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:44:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
That makes absolute sense, thanks Jeff,
thanks all!
Any ideas why my fuel cut pressure level keeps
moving
downward? In other words, I used to be able to push
1.25-1.30
bar w/o cut, now its even doing it around
1.15. Have I hurt the engine
at all by doing this?
Ken
- --- Jeff Lucius <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
> >>Welcome to the fuel cutoff!
> >> (You forgot
to upgrage your fuel system)
>
> Fuel cut has nothing to do with
the fuel system!
> Well not directly.
> Indirectly, when larger
injectors are installed and
> the stock ECM is retained,
> an
airflow signal conditioner (AFC, ARC2, VPC)
> reduces the airflow signal
> (compared to actual) and this reduces chances for
> fuel cut
(item 2 below).
>
> The ECM, not the fuel injectors or fuel pump,
causes
> fuel cut by temporarily
> halting the injector driver
signal (the 0 ms reading
> on the logger). The ECM
> does this in
response to the following 3 situations.
> 1) The engine speed exceeds
~7500 RPM (overrun
> protection).
> 2) The A/N (basically airflow
per cylinder per
> revolution) reaches or exceeds
> the prescribed
value (overboost protection).
> 3) The throttle plate is closed during
engine
> deceleration above a certain
> speed (improves emissions
and fuel economy).
>
> More discussion on my web page
below:
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm>
> FWIW, the stock boost gauge reports A/N, not boost
> (despite the
markings).
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
>
To: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>;
> <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Tuesday,
June 11, 2002 9:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Is this spark
blowout?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:50:16
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
The ECU learns, the more it runs into
fuel cut the more it retards the
timing and switches to the safety fuel map.
In my case, the engine got
damaged more and more. I'd do a good compression
test to make sure
everything is right.
Without enough fuel and
detonation control everything above 1 bar is
deadly.... been there done that
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 07:44 12.06.2002 -0700, Ken
Stanton wrote:
>That makes absolute sense, thanks Jeff, thanks
all!
>
>Any ideas why my fuel cut pressure level keeps
moving
>downward? In other words, I used to be able to
push
>1.25-1.30 bar w/o cut, now its even doing it
around
>1.15. Have I hurt the engine at all by doing
this?
>
>Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:02:14
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rear defroster/antenna/wiper
You might have a bad ground wire
in the back some where!
>From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly Byrd)
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: rear defroster/antenna/wiper
>Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:36:46
-0400 (EDT)
>
>I have a small problem with my 1994 3000GT. Nothing
works on the rear of
>te car. My rear view wiper is out, my rear defroster
is out, and my
>antenna is out. Could this possibly be a fuse or a relay?
If so, where
>is it located? Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:18:11
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: high octane unleaded
Now that I've settled in North Yorkshire,
England, I've discovered that high octane unleaded
gasoline is very hard to
come by. Nearly all gas stations here sell exactly three fuels:
Unleaded,
Lead Replacement and Diesel. The only station I've found in
the area that sells "Super Unleaded" is
a grocery store chain called
Sainsbury's, and it's not convenient for me to run all the way over
there
every time I need to fill up the tank. While poking around on the web in
search of a
directory of gas stations that do sell what I need (didn't find
one), I ran across the following
information from a Land Rover forum and
wanted to solicit the input of the group.
Note that octane is computed
differently in Europe. In Germany, "Super Plus Unleaded" is
available
everywhere and is rated 98 octane, which is similar to 93 octane in
the States. From the below, it
sounds like the readily available
"Premium Unleaded" is inappropriate for my car (especially with
AVC-R set to
1.00), while the rare "Super Unleaded" will dissolve my engine (actually, I
assume the
latter is equivalent to the highest grade unleaded in other
countries and that our cars are built to
accommodate the more undesirable
qualities of such fuel).
%%%%%
Unfortunately, due to much
political euro-crap (and world-crap) we have a real problem with
modern
fuels. Quality (as a fuel) has suffered.
Premium
'Unleaded' is 95 Octane. Whether it has detergents, is low sulphur (doesn't
produce a nice
rotting egg sulphide smell with a catalyst). It's 95 Octane,
or it is when it leaves the refinery.
High octane is achieved with
benzenes/xylenes/anything likewise, all volatile components. Nice mix
of
oxidants too (like MTBE), lovely toxic combustion products too (like dienes
etc.) really lovely
stuff. Low shelf-life. Pinks like hell on a high
compression engine, but what the heck, the valves
will burn before the
pistons hole.
Super 'Unleaded' is 97 Octane. The above, with high benzene
and general carcinogenic components. Not
pleasant stuff, should be handled
with care, we call this 'green'!!. Will run in a tuned Imp engine
(13:1), but
you need hard valve seats and the bronze guides.
LRP is 97 Octane. A
lower (refinement) quality than the above, enhanced with octane
improvers
(pentacarbonyls, ferrocenes, etc). Moot point, but all this is less
toxic than the aromatics in the
'green' stuff. Better burn characteristics
(longer, smoother). Contains either a sodium or pottasium
valve-lubricant,
which is not really great at the job. Corrosive fuel, eats the lining of
70's
petrol tanks, aluminium and other components. Better using 'Super'
Unleaded and good (phosphite)
based valve seat lubricants - 'Valvemaster' in
the standard Imp engine.
Leaded is 97-99 Octane, BS4040. Lovely stuff.
Still available in a few places, down here at
Wadebridge and Bodmin. Good
enviromentally friendly combustion products, not high in
carcinogenic
aromatics. Can't use this in a catalyst-equipped car, so plenty
of very rich companies unhappy about
its use.
'5 Star' Leaded is
>100 octane. Pure nectar. Can use in a 13:1 Imp engine with no real worries
with
wild cams and fixed advance. Either buy tetraethyllead and dibromoethane
and add to 'Super' Unleaded
or 4 Star, or buy a propriety TEL-based
additive.
%%%%%
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:26:05
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: high octane unleaded
Well Jim, You should use the 98 octane
here in Europe but even the UK is
different than the other european
countries. You can run 95 without
problems. The ECU will jump onto the lower
fuel map and turns mixture up to
richer for safety. Power of course will be
less (don't know how much).
Enjoy the UK Weather
:o)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:32:09
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high octane unleaded
Jim, I would say run a mix of the stuff
from "Salisbury's" and the 95 octane
(50/50 mix) That way you are not driving
out to BFE every time you fill up
but every other.......... Sorry man,
If I could export(and not give up any
vital organs) a 55 gal drum of VP104 to
you I would. Also it may be time to
get that water alkie kit if you
don't have one........
Russ F
CT
93VR-4 She's torn apart now the
fun begins :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:26
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: high octane unleaded
>
> Well Jim, You should use the 98 octane here in Europe but even the UK
is
> different than the other european countries. You can run 95
without
> problems. The ECU will jump onto the lower fuel map and turns
mixture up
> to
> richer for safety. Power of course will be less
(don't know how much).
>
> Enjoy the UK Weather :o)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 12:41:03
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Control arm alignment fix URL... (Eibach ProKit)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
JDK88888@aol.com>
> Hey Bob,
>
did a search for the URL you mentioned in your recent reply to the
Eibach
question on the Team3S list, but I couldn't find it...
could you send me
the URL for the site you mentioned? My rear camber
has been out of spec
(2.8 right rear, 2.4 left rear) since last June,
and it's getting a little
annoying during AutoX... :(
>
TIA!!
> Joe K
> 91 RT/TT black
-
------------------------->
Hey, Joe,
Sorry about the delayed
reply... I think I posted the wrong # for the
Digest - it's #851 (not
861) and it was around May 25. It's in the
Archives.
www.Team3s.com/Archive.htmThe
search string to use on our the Search Page is "Eibach Nightmare":
www.Team3S.com/Search.htm It
brings up 322 results (!), but reading the
first few instances will give you
pretty much all you need...
>From another question on the list,
install time for stock springs listed in
the dealer's manual is 1.3 hours
(fronts), 1.5 hrs (rears), total 2.8 hours!
I previously said it was 6-7
hours and around $500, but that included some
other work. It was much
less than that for just the Eibach install - around
$380 (4 years ago), and
that was "big city" prices... That included the
extra time for
elongating the holes and the spot weld - probably around 4.5
hours,
*total*.
The rears can NOT be brought back into spec camber *without*
elongating the
back holes outward about 1/8" to 3/16". Procedure
is:
1) Uninstall the Eibachs.
2) Elongate the holes (use diagram - URL in
Digest 851).
3) Install the Eibachs at the new extreme outside of the
holes.
4) Mark around the washer with a felt-tip pen.
5) Uninstall the
Eibachs.
6) Spot-weld the washers in the marked position.
7) Install the
Eibachs.
8) Adjust as normal using the stock eccentric bolts.
Another
fix is to buy the new adjustable arms available from 3SXPerformance.
Not
cheap, but it may be the solution you're looking for:
www.3SXPerformance.comGood
Luck!
- --Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#867
***************************************