Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, November 17 2001
Volume 01 : Number
676
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
16 Nov 2001 08:56:28 -0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: CAS sensor on heads on 93+ engine.
Ken:
Do you have a
copy of CAPS?
You can use CAPS to see if you could put a 1st gen Head
mounted CAS on a Second gen engine. You could then keep the timing adjustment on
the heads.
Check Caps to see if the Intake camshaft (I think it is RH but
I am not sure) is the same for a 91 and a 94 chassis. If the 94 part numbers are
good back to 91 then the parts are interchangeable and your theory should work.
I would also check the part numbers for the heads.
Note: If the part numbers
don't match it might be because of a insignificant change, and your theory might
still work.
Or call any performance shop like GT-PRO that sells NEW (not
regrinds)aftermarket camshafts and see if they sell differenct camshaft sets for
1st gen or second gen, GT-Pro has staged head rebuilds so I would hope
they would know if this worked.
I would look this up myself but I removed
my copy CAPS from my PC because I have a really small hard drive. I you
don't have CAPS and nobody steps up, let me know and I'll reload my copy this
weekend.
P.S. Everyone can check out my new webpage:
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/index.htmlI
just updated it last week with details of
- - 4-bolt main conversion,
now with pictures
- - Aluminum parts I polished, anddhow I did it.
-
- Some basic CAPS instructions
- - And the long saga of why
dealers suck!
I would love some feedback, especially on the CAPS
instructions, I found CAPS to not be very intuitive until Michael Reid
sent me this great info. I will add any other tips that are sent my
way.
John Monnin
jkmonnin
91 VR-4 4-bolt main
conversion
Original Message below
>Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: Install 1st gen CAS on 2nd gen >engine??
>Hi Folks,
>Although I received a few private "sounds >interesting,
keep me posted"
>replies to my original inquiry, I'm surprised I
>didn't get any technical or
>definitive responses from you experts
out there. So, >I'll ask again ;).
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 08:57:52
-0800
From: "Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Subject: Team3S: SP
pictures
I want to thank Bob for his generosity and hard work, both for
taking
all the pictures and then arranging them for posting on to the
List. It
took a lot of work and more important, it took away from his
driving
time at Sears Point. The pictures are wonderful for those of us
who
were there, bringing back memories of experiences and people which
were
very transitory. It was a great weekend and the pictures, thanks
to
Bob, will help us relive the feelings.
Now that you are puffed up,
what about the promise that you were going
to help organize another smaller
Sears Point gathering for the weekend
of Dec 1&2?
Ann--Blue '93
Stealth TT w/ Big Red package and 18" wheels
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:01:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SP pictures
There is also Laguna Seca the middle of
January.
On Fri, 16 Nov 2001, Ann Koch wrote:
> I want to thank
Bob for his generosity and hard work, both for taking
> all the pictures
and then arranging them for posting on to the List. It
> took a lot
of work and more important, it took away from his driving
> time at Sears
Point. The pictures are wonderful for those of us who
> were there,
bringing back memories of experiences and people which were
> very
transitory. It was a great weekend and the pictures, thanks to
>
Bob, will help us relive the feelings.
>
> Now that you are puffed
up, what about the promise that you were going
> to help organize another
smaller Sears Point gathering for the weekend
> of Dec 1&2?
>
> Ann--Blue '93 Stealth TT w/ Big Red package and 18" wheels
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:52:17
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SP pictures
Thanks for the kind words, Ann. And while we're
at it, we all want to thank
Geoff & Nissa for their hospitality - letting
us share their trailer and
tools... And to NASA for treating us so
well.
Yup, we're gonna do it again on December 1/2. I'll prep a
post with details
but for now...
If you're in Northern California the
weekend of December 1-2, some of us
will be doing the NASA Pro Racing HPDE at
Sears Point Raceway. All you need
is working seatbelts and a Snell-M
helmet (we have some loaners, but they
are available at any cycle shop for
<$100). It costs $5 for parking just to
watch, or $180 for a single
day ($300 for both days). Tech inspection is
$20, or you may do that
beforetime at any of the listed speed shops on the
NASA website. Tech
checks your car for softness in the brake pedal (bleed
your brakes if there's
any give), any looseness in the steering, tire
quality, battery tie-down,
obvious leaks... Basic stuff.
Get details at the NASA website,
www.nasaproracing.com . You can
download
applications, tech form, waiver and get maps there, but we'll be
more
specific in the formal post which I'll make next week. As before,
all we do
out there is have FUN. And we learn to be better drivers
while we're doing
it. I can't imagine a nicer bunch of folks to do it
with! If you don't
want to drive, then come to watch and hang out with
us. The NASA BBQ is
Saturday nite, and it's free (we help them out with
setup and serving, since
they treat us so well). If there are enough of
us, NASA gives us our own
Team3S Parade lap and parking area (last time was
right next to the hot
pits!). As always, we can take photos together,
as well. If you missed my
other post, see my Race Report and links to
the ~200 photos we took last
time:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htm
We had a BALL!!! Let's do it again!
Best,
Forrest
-
--------------------
> I want to thank Bob for his generosity and hard
work, both for taking all
the pictures and then arranging them for posting on
to the List. It took a
lot of work and more important, it took away
from his driving time at Sears
Point. The pictures are wonderful for
those of us who were there, bringing
back memories of experiences and people
which were very transitory. It was
a great weekend and the pictures,
thanks to Bob, will help us relive the
feelings.
> Now that you are
puffed up, what about the promise that you were going to
help organize
another smaller Sears Point gathering for the weekend of Dec
1&2?
>
Ann--Blue '93 Stealth TT w/ Big Red package and 18" wheels
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:03:46
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Times for non-turbo
Check the Team3s or 3SI fasttime pages, but
generally,
NT 0-60mph is 6.8 to 7.2 secs, either Stealth or 3K, and can get
to 6.5 if you work at it.
That's with 5sp, not Auto.
Have not seen
times for 0-60mph with NOS, but it can knock a second off qtr times.
Nos kits
are $500-$900 depending on options and fuel upgrades.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Oleg Malkin
[mailto:olegmalkin@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 8:42
PM
To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
Team3S: Times for non-turbo
I currently own a base 93 stealth with
auto
transmission and I have to admit it is pretty slow.
I am thinking of
buying a 3000gt, but I probably would
not be able to afford a vr4 so it is
down to either a
base or sl with 220 hp. Now my question is, what are
the
0-60 times for a non-turbo 3000gt. Is there any
difference in acceleration
between an SL and a base
3000gt before 97 models(when they started puting
those
161hp engines in)? I will deffinatly get a manual
this
time.
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:21:50
-0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mechanic legit?
Yes. I am the BazJeep that Darren is talking
about. I
am actually re-doing the 60K service again this Sat. I
will find
it if it was actually the timing being off
or not.
Wish me luck. :) I
will take pics too.
- --- Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com> wrote:
> I
do believe a good friend of mine on the list (you
> listening,
BazJeep)
> had a similar run-in recently with his car. Found
>
his dream car.
> Co-drove it with his brother from Florida to New
>
Jersey ... it
> overheated. Fixed the thermostat. Overheated.
> Water pump. Overheated
> (so some cyclic scene like
that).
>
> Maybe he can tell us what happened or his insight.
> I felt bad watching
> him go through that. Like Merritt,
mine was covered
> under warranty. As
> was the blown tranny
from the second gear synchro.
> Man I love that $200
> deductible
on the one-time $3,000 one year warranty.
> Got my money's
>
worth.
>
> And depending on where you live, Jon, you might
be
> close to a great
> garage or members who can help diagnose or
fix some
> of the 60k
> components. I know that is in the
archives if you
> want to search for
> it,
http://www.team3s.com/Search.htm.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:38:59
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Times for non-turbo
Our fastest page is at
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-fastest.htm
. Two of the fastest
1/4 mile NA times are being turned in by a
"he/she" team in Fla, *without*
NOS. All they are running is a K+N FIPK
and a custom exhaust system that he
designed. VERY good times.
I'll be putting up new ones for her tomorrow.
Check our page again after the
weekend.
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
> Check the
Team3s or 3SI fasttime pages, but generally, NT 0-60mph is 6.8
to 7.2 secs,
either Stealth or 3K, and can get to 6.5 if you work at it.
That's with 5sp,
not Auto.
> Have not seen times for 0-60mph with NOS, but it can knock a
second off
qtr times. Nos kits are $500-$900 depending on options and fuel
upgrades.
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Oleg Malkin [mailto:olegmalkin@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 15,
2001 8:42 PM
> To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Subject: Team3S: Times for non-turbo
>
>
> I currently own a
base 93 stealth with auto
> transmission and I have to admit it is pretty
slow.
> I am thinking of buying a 3000gt, but I probably would
> not
be able to afford a vr4 so it is down to either a
> base or sl with 220
hp. Now my question is, what are
> the 0-60 times for a non-turbo 3000gt.
Is there any
> difference in acceleration between an SL and a base
>
3000gt before 97 models(when they started puting those
> 161hp engines
in)? I will deffinatly get a manual this
>
time.
>
>
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 13:04:31
-0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S: Do
transmissions have to be factory sealed?
Do VR4 ('91) transmissions have
to be factory sealed? My transmission is
torn apart right now and the
mechanic is thinking that he can rebuild it
for about $3000. However, the
Mitsubishi Dealer just told be that all
the VR4 transmissions are "factory
sealed" so if they go bad you have to
get a new one that is still sealed.
Otherwise it will leak. Is this
true?
- -Mike
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 13:27:52
-0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S: My
Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
I've had a Platinum Warranty (
http://www.platinumwarrantycorp.com/)
since
I bought my '91 VR-4 a couple years ago. Now I'm at the end of the
warrantee
(99,500 miles) and my transmission just went. My repair shop,
called
Platinum, gave them my policy number and they told him to "open
it up" and
they would send out an inspector.
So, my mechanic took apart the
transmission, but then two days later
Platinum called back and said that my
warrantee has been cancelled
because they have already paid out more money on
my car than its
wholesale value.
I called Platinum and they said
they've already paid $4,600 over the
last two years (which they have, and I
can't deny that). However, they
state that the Wholesale insurance value of
the car (explained to me as
"what an insurance company would pay you if you
totaled your car") is
only $4,425. Thus according to the Platinum Warranty
contract (I quote):
"The total liability Platinum Warranty will pay for the
warranty period
is the wholesale book value of the vehicle, as deemed by
insurance
company."
I Platinum where they came up with this $4,425
figure and they said they
looked up my VIN on their Black Book (
http://www.blackbookusa.com).
So... a
couple of issues here:
1. They shouldn't have told my mechanic take apart
my
transmission if they had no intention of covering any claims.
2. Is
that really the wholesale value of a 1991 VR-4? According
to the Kelly Blue
Book site even if I traded that car in I should get
$7,300
(
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;376224&;t&39;Mitsubishi;1991%203000GT&11;MI;G3&)
3.
Can they really do this? I purchased the warranty
specifically for the
transmission because I've heard how expensive they
can be on the VR-4. Plus I
called AllState and Farmers insurance and
they both said they if I "totaled"
the car they would have to pay the
full market price (my cost to replace the
car) not some sort of
wholesale cost (which would never replace the car for
me as a private
owner).
Any ideas or suggestions here?
-
-MM
Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:58:41
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
Seems to me you solved
the problenm already:
>"The total liability Platinum Warranty will pay
for the warranty period
>is the wholesale book value of the vehicle, as
deemed by insurance
>company." <snip>
> I called AllState and
Farmers insurance and
>they both said they if I "totaled" the car they
would have to pay the
>full market price (my cost to replace the car)
>
I'd find out what YOUR insurance company would pay if you totaled
the car
and send that figure to Platinum, demanding that they honor the
insurance
company's estimate and pay up to that amount. I'd also go see a
lawyer and
discuss a lawsuit against Platinum and the local dealer who sold
you the
policy. You might also want to pay the lawyer to write the first
letter for
you. Lawyers know how to write letters that get
attention.
Rich/married to a lawyer
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:03:04
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
At 01:04 PM
11/16/01 -0800, Sandie Morrison wrote:
>Do VR4 ('91) transmissions have to
be factory sealed? My transmission is
>torn apart right now and the
mechanic is thinking that he can rebuild it
>for about $3000.
You
can buy a brand new/factory rebuilt 6 sp Getrag tranny from Satan
(the
dealer) for about $2600. I say that because the dealer replaced
mine under
warranty for $3200 and the labor was $600. The 5 spd should
be priced
about the same.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:19:33
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
To start with, wholesale
value listed on our Price Page
(
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-3Sprices.htm
- figures compiled 1 year ago) is ~$8,500,
so $7,500 is close...
Secondly, they are (at the very minimum) liable for
the amount of repairs so
far (which *they* authorized).
Call Frank at Kormex with a detailing of
your problem (if it's only trashed
synchros, or similar) - click the link to
"Preferred Dealers & Vendors" who
offer new/used replacement parts.
It's in the FAQ Index, Basics section
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm , under "Used
Parts" on that page. Perhaps you don't
need an entire
transmission.
I'd call the State Insurance Board and ask for advice -
they will probably
suggest that you get a lawyer. I suggest the
same.
Good luck!
Forrest
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
> I've had a
Platinum Warranty (
http://www.platinumwarrantycorp.com/)
>
since I bought my '91 VR-4 a couple years ago. Now I'm at the end of the
>
warrantee (99,500 miles) and my transmission just went. My repair shop,
>
called Platinum, gave them my policy number and they told him to "open
>
it up" and they would send out an inspector.
>
> So, my mechanic
took apart the transmission, but then two days later
> Platinum called
back and said that my warrantee has been cancelled
> because they have
already paid out more money on my car than its
> wholesale
value.
>
> I called Platinum and they said they've already paid
$4,600 over the
> last two years (which they have, and I can't deny that).
However, they
> state that the Wholesale insurance value of the car
(explained to me as
> "what an insurance company would pay you if you
totaled your car") is
> only $4,425. Thus according to the Platinum
Warranty contract (I quote):
> "The total liability Platinum Warranty will
pay for the warranty period
> is the wholesale book value of the vehicle,
as deemed by insurance
> company."
>
> I Platinum where they
came up with this $4,425 figure and they said they
> looked up my VIN on
their Black Book (
http://www.blackbookusa.com).
>
So... a couple of issues here:
>
> 1. They shouldn't have told my
mechanic take apart my
> transmission if they had no intention of covering
any claims.
> 2. Is that really the wholesale value of a 1991 VR-4?
According
> to the Kelly Blue Book site even if I traded that car in I
should get
> $7,300
> (
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;376224&;t&39;Mitsubishi;1991%>
203000GT&11;MI;G3&)
> 3. Can they really do this? I purchased the
warranty
> specifically for the transmission because I've heard how
expensive they
> can be on the VR-4. Plus I called AllState and Farmers
insurance and
> they both said they if I "totaled" the car they would have
to pay the
> full market price (my cost to replace the car) not some sort
of
> wholesale cost (which would never replace the car for me as a
private
> owner).
>
> Any ideas or suggestions
here?
>
> -MM
> Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:25:19
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
the dealer is
lying. (is this redundant?)
The reason that US Mitsu dealers do not
rebuild Getrag transmissions is that
they were too cheap to purchase the
"special tools" specified to perform
such a maintenance operation for such a
"limited number" of automobiles.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Sandie Morrison [SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
> Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 3:05 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
>
> Do
VR4 ('91) transmissions have to be factory sealed? My transmission is
>
torn apart right now and the mechanic is thinking that he can rebuild it
>
for about $3000. However, the Mitsubishi Dealer just told be that all
>
the VR4 transmissions are "factory sealed" so if they go bad you have to
>
get a new one that is still sealed. Otherwise it will leak. Is this
>
true?
>
> -Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:26:58
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
I would inform Platinum
that my next communication with them would be
through my
attorney.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sandie Morrison
[SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 3:28 PM
>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
>
> I've had
a Platinum Warranty (
http://www.platinumwarrantycorp.com/)
>
since I bought my '91 VR-4 a couple years ago. Now I'm at the end of the
>
warrantee (99,500 miles) and my transmission just went. My repair shop,
>
called Platinum, gave them my policy number and they told him to "open
>
it up" and they would send out an inspector.
>
> So, my mechanic
took apart the transmission, but then two days later
> Platinum called
back and said that my warrantee has been cancelled
> because they have
already paid out more money on my car than its
> wholesale value.
>
> I called Platinum and they said they've already paid $4,600 over
the
> last two years (which they have, and I can't deny that). However,
they
> state that the Wholesale insurance value of the car (explained to
me as
> "what an insurance company would pay you if you totaled your car")
is
> only $4,425. Thus according to the Platinum Warranty contract (I
quote):
> "The total liability Platinum Warranty will pay for the warranty
period
> is the wholesale book value of the vehicle, as deemed by
insurance
> company."
>
> I Platinum where they came up with
this $4,425 figure and they said they
> looked up my VIN on their Black
Book (
http://www.blackbookusa.com).
>
So... a couple of issues here:
>
> 1. They shouldn't have told my
mechanic take apart my
> transmission if they had no intention of covering
any claims.
> 2. Is that really the wholesale value of a 1991 VR-4?
According
> to the Kelly Blue Book site even if I traded that car in I
should get
> $7,300
> (
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;376224&;t&39;Mitsubishi;1991%>
203000GT&11;MI;G3&)
> 3. Can they really do this? I purchased the
warranty
> specifically for the transmission because I've heard how
expensive they
> can be on the VR-4. Plus I called AllState and Farmers
insurance and
> they both said they if I "totaled" the car they would have
to pay the
> full market price (my cost to replace the car) not some sort
of
> wholesale cost (which would never replace the car for me as a
private
> owner).
>
> Any ideas or suggestions here?
>
> -MM
> Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:37:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
>> the
mechanic is thinking that he can rebuild it for about $3000
"Rebuilds"
typically require many NEW parts, especially bearings,
synchros, and seals.
You might first want your mechanic to inform you
of where he can get ANY new
internal parts for your 5-spd
transmission (other than bearings and seals).
Some 5-spd synchro
rings (not cones, not hubs, not sleeves) are available
from Kormex
and maybe some other shops. Your mechanic might find NEW synchros
and
gears/shafts hard to get. On a bright note there is a thread on
3SI
were a fellow's trany shop claims to be able to get any NEW
internal
part for our trany. Your mechanic may be only "refurbishing"
your
trany in which some new and some used/reconditioned parts are
used.
For pics of the inside of our 5-spd Getrag and parts
identification,
look at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-AWD2.htmI
list 9 shops on the Garage Page at my web site that will rebuild
our Getrag
transaxle and transfer case. You might contact some of
them for comparison
shopping and advice. There are several sources
for *new* 6-spd transaxles,
including Kormex, for less than $3000
(this doesn't help you I know). I have
not heard of cheap, new 5-spd
trannies being available. Though you might
check at the discount
Mitsu dealers I list on my Garage Page.
As far
as "factory sealed". Uh? Any *qualified* shop can seal your
trany up tight.
Talk to the shops I list on my Garage Page.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 2:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Do transmissions have to
be factory sealed?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:55:40
-0500
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
> On a bright note
there is a thread on 3SI
> were a fellow's trany shop claims to be able to
get any NEW internal
> part for our trany.
Which thread is this ?
I'd like to check it out.
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:21:30
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
Sorry I guess it
was just synchros, not ANY part, and just the
6-speed.
From
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51613=======================================================
Well,
I asked the owner of the shop for his source and he would not
tell me. He
said if he did we could not get them any way. I guess he
means it is a
distributor, so KORMEX could probably get them, but not
use. He said he had
to search a week for them, so he would like to
reap the rewards.
He
did say you can call him up and order the synchros through him.
They cost
$1200 for six synchros, (1-2,3-4, 5-6). I am not sure how
much they are a
piece. He said he would also replace them if you sent
him the tranny. I am
not sure if he can get any other parts. I
believe mine was the first one of
our Getrags he had worked on.
He said fill free to call him.
Joe
Mr. Transmission
1601 N Sheridan Rd.
Lawton OK, 73501
1-580-536-3412
8am-6pm M-F, 8:30am-1pm Sat.
Sorry that this is
all I could
get.
=======================================================
- ---
"Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> On a bright note there is a thread on 3SI
> > were a fellow's
trany shop claims to be able to get any NEW
> internal
> > part
for our trany.
>
> Which thread is this ? I'd like to check it
out.
>
> Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:24:35
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
I don't think you're going to
get a factory transmission for $2600 ---- that
may be dealer cost but you're
going to pay $5k or more. Kormex sells
reconditioned units for
$2000+.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
At 01:04 PM 11/16/01 -0800, Sandie Morrison wrote:
> >Do VR4 ('91)
transmissions have to be factory sealed? My transmission is
> >torn
apart right now and the mechanic is thinking that he can rebuild it
>
>for about $3000.
>
> You can buy a brand new/factory rebuilt 6
sp Getrag tranny from Satan (the
> dealer) for about $2600. I say
that because the dealer replaced mine under
> warranty for $3200 and
the labor was $600. The 5 spd should be priced
> about the same.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:37:57
-0500 (EST)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
(Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I am the proud new
owner of a 1994 3000GT na. The car has 110,000 miles
on it. Hubby changed the
oil right after I bought it and then a second
time a few days ago. I had
3,200 miles on this oil change. The car was
about 2 1/2 quarts low on oil! I
called our local service dept (I didn't
buy the car there) and the mechanic
told me that it is normal to add 1
quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Is this
true? My owners manual said that
it is normal to add oil between changes, but
didn't say how much. I
thought that 2 1/2 quarts was a little much. You guys
are the experts
(and the owners). What do you
think?
Kim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:02:30
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I have a 96 NA, it may use .5 qt every 3-5000mi.
My engine only has 60k on it. if you can't detect any leaks, it sounds
like ring blow-by, or maybe something wrong with crankcase vent valve.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
[mailto:kimbyrd@webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 3:38 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I am the proud new owner of a 1994 3000GT na. The
car has 110,000 miles
on it. Hubby changed the oil right after I bought it
and then a second
time a few days ago. I had 3,200 miles on this oil change.
The car was
about 2 1/2 quarts low on oil! I called our local service dept (I
didn't
buy the car there) and the mechanic told me that it is normal to add
1
quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Is this true? My owners manual said
that
it is normal to add oil between changes, but didn't say how much.
I
thought that 2 1/2 quarts was a little much. You guys are the
experts
(and the owners). What do you think?
Kim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:30:01
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
Now hold on
there..Getrag doesnt let -anyone- do service on thier
trannies. This
applies to Toyota and thier Getrags as well. Its not a
being cheap
issue
On Fri, 16 Nov 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> the
dealer is lying. (is this redundant?)
>
> The reason that US
Mitsu dealers do not rebuild Getrag transmissions is that
> they were too
cheap to purchase the "special tools" specified to perform
> such a
maintenance operation for such a "limited number" of automobiles.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Sandie Morrison [SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
> > Sent: Friday,
November 16, 2001 3:05 PM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
> >
> > Do VR4 ('91) transmissions have to be factory sealed? My
transmission is
> > torn apart right now and the mechanic is thinking
that he can rebuild it
> > for about $3000. However, the Mitsubishi
Dealer just told be that all
> > the VR4 transmissions are "factory
sealed" so if they go bad you have to
> > get a new one that is still
sealed. Otherwise it will leak. Is this
> > true?
> >
>
> -Mike
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:54:40
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil (white smoke?)
I'd be willing to bet that the
mechanic was an "old guy" - a Qt per 1000
miles is the guide we used to use
years ago for "American Iron", and doesn't
apply to our precision engines
quite as much. But if you really are burning
that much (yes, that's a
lot) there's got to be a leak or problem. If there
is no oil on the
bottom of the pan, (and hubby's sure that the oil filter
wasn't misthreaded
and it's just leaking out), it does indicate some issues.
Before you joined
us you tried a post to the list where you mentioned white
smoke? I
think that indicates that you're burning oil (bad rings, etc), but
I'm not
the expert there. I'll let the engine gurus diagnose that for you.
I
race my 94 NA Stealth but I only have 30,000 miles on it - I still don't
burn
any oil at all. I can't say what the norm is with an engine with
more
mileage...
Best,
Forrest
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
[mailto:kimbyrd@webtv.net]
> I am the proud new owner of a 1994 3000GT na.
The car has 110,000 miles on
it. Hubby changed the oil right after I bought
it and then a second time a
few days ago. I had 3,200 miles on this oil
change. The car was about 2 1/2
quarts low on oil! I called our local service
dept (I didn't buy the car
there) and the mechanic told me that it is normal
to add 1 quart of oil per
1,000 miles. Is this true? My owners manual said
that it is normal to add
oil between changes, but didn't say how much. I
thought that 2 1/2 quarts
was a little much. You guys are the experts (and
the owners). What do you
think?
> Kim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:02:04
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
To clarify things a little
---- the trannies are not 'factory sealed', they are just
like any other
transmission [ a little more complex because of the AWD ]. The
problem is,
Getrag doesn't sell parts [ unless these current threads can be
believed ]
and they don't publish internal specs. Any competent transmission
shop can
remove and disassemble the trans, if they can get used parts or
some
aftermarket parts they can repair it --- output shafts, most seals and
now
synchros are available.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Sandie Morrison <
sandie@netst.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Do transmissions have to
be factory sealed?
> Do VR4 ('91) transmissions have to be factory
sealed? My transmission is
> torn apart right now and the mechanic is
thinking that he can rebuild it
> for about $3000. However, the Mitsubishi
Dealer just told be that all
> the VR4 transmissions are "factory sealed"
so if they go bad you have to
> get a new one that is still sealed.
Otherwise it will leak. Is this
> true?
>
>
-Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:05:42
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SP pictures
Damn --- I'd really like to go and give Geoff a good whippen
in that
Spyder of his but I'm forced to go to Maui for 10 days starting the
2nd. Oh well, that'll give Geoff a couple more days of practice at
Sears
so when I come back he can show me the proper
line.
Jim
berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Ann Koch <
akoch@sonic.net>; Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SP
pictures
> Thanks for the kind words, Ann. And while we're
at it, we all want to thank
> Geoff & Nissa for their hospitality -
letting us share their trailer and
> tools... And to NASA for
treating us so well.
>
> Yup, we're gonna do it again on December
1/2. I'll prep a post with details
> but for now...
>
>
If you're in Northern California the weekend of December 1-2, some of us
>
will be doing the NASA Pro Racing HPDE at Sears Point Raceway. All you
need
> is working seatbelts and a Snell-M helmet (we have some loaners,
but they
> are available at any cycle shop for <$100). It costs
$5 for parking just to
> watch, or $180 for a single day ($300 for both
days). Tech inspection is
> $20, or you may do that beforetime at
any of the listed speed shops on the
> NASA website. Tech checks
your car for softness in the brake pedal (bleed
> your brakes if there's
any give), any looseness in the steering, tire
> quality, battery
tie-down, obvious leaks... Basic stuff.
>
> Get details at
the NASA website,
www.nasaproracing.com . You can
download
> applications, tech form, waiver and get maps there, but we'll
be more
> specific in the formal post which I'll make next week. As
before, all we do
> out there is have FUN. And we learn to be better
drivers while we're doing
> it. I can't imagine a nicer bunch of
folks to do it with! If you don't
> want to drive, then come to
watch and hang out with us. The NASA BBQ is
> Saturday nite, and
it's free (we help them out with setup and serving, since
> they treat us
so well). If there are enough of us, NASA gives us our own
> Team3S
Parade lap and parking area (last time was right next to the hot
>
pits!). As always, we can take photos together, as well. If you
missed my
> other post, see my Race Report and links to the ~200 photos we
took last
> time:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htm
We had a BALL!!! Let's do it again!
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
>
> --------------------
> > I want to
thank Bob for his generosity and hard work, both for taking all
> the
pictures and then arranging them for posting on to the List. It took
a
> lot of work and more important, it took away from his driving time at
Sears
> Point. The pictures are wonderful for those of us who were
there, bringing
> back memories of experiences and people which were very
transitory. It was
> a great weekend and the pictures, thanks to
Bob, will help us relive the
> feelings.
> > Now that you are
puffed up, what about the promise that you were going to
> help organize
another smaller Sears Point gathering for the weekend of Dec
>
1&2?
> > Ann--Blue '93 Stealth TT w/ Big Red package and 18"
wheels
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:16:35
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a
Boost Controller?
I thought I'd get the list's opinion before I did
something that was
potentially very stupid. As I watch my (aftermarket)
boost gauge, I notice
that I only hit 15psi (the presure I have my
aftermarket boost controller
set to) for but a slight instant before the
rev's of the engine gobble up
all my boost. I end up coming to rest at
about 13lbs untill I shift (aprox
5800rpm). The story is about the same
in all the gears with the exception
of 5th. In fith, if I'm at about
2700 rpm and floorboard it, I'll hang
around 15psi for just a little bit
longer.
My question is this: considering the fact that I have stock
turbos, if I
took off my MBC and pluged up the vacume tubes wouldn't I get
abour the same
amount of boost I'm getting right now? Do you think I'd
be playing with
fire if I didn't use my waste gates at all? Has anyone
tried this? Were
there any benifits/drawbacks?
It seems to me
that those tiny little 9B's just can't move enough air fast
enough to build a
dangerous ammount of boost on our 3liter engine.
(these are the kinds of
thoughts that kept me out of the really good
schools)
- -T.J. 1992
3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:08:36
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SP pictures
Shit..you had problems with the MR-S, you dont
wanna get near the Celica.
*heh*
On Fri, 16 Nov 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
> Damn --- I'd really like to go and give Geoff a good whippen
in that
> Spyder of his but I'm forced to go to Maui for 10 days starting
the
> 2nd. Oh well, that'll give Geoff a couple more days of practice at
> Sears so when I come back he can show me the proper line.
>
>
> Jim
berry
> =============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com>
> To: Ann Koch
<
akoch@sonic.net>; Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 10:52 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: SP
pictures
>
>
> > Thanks for the kind words, Ann.
And while we're at it, we all want to thank
> > Geoff & Nissa for
their hospitality - letting us share their trailer and
> >
tools... And to NASA for treating us so well.
> >
> >
Yup, we're gonna do it again on December 1/2. I'll prep a post with
details
> > but for now...
> >
> > If you're in
Northern California the weekend of December 1-2, some of us
> > will be
doing the NASA Pro Racing HPDE at Sears Point Raceway. All you
need
> > is working seatbelts and a Snell-M helmet (we have some
loaners, but they
> > are available at any cycle shop for
<$100). It costs $5 for parking just to
> > watch, or $180 for
a single day ($300 for both days). Tech inspection is
> > $20, or
you may do that beforetime at any of the listed speed shops on the
> >
NASA website. Tech checks your car for softness in the brake pedal
(bleed
> > your brakes if there's any give), any looseness in the
steering, tire
> > quality, battery tie-down, obvious leaks...
Basic stuff.
> >
> > Get details at the NASA website,
www.nasaproracing.com . You can
download
> > applications, tech form, waiver and get maps there, but
we'll be more
> > specific in the formal post which I'll make next
week. As before, all we do
> > out there is have FUN. And
we learn to be better drivers while we're doing
> > it. I can't
imagine a nicer bunch of folks to do it with! If you don't
> >
want to drive, then come to watch and hang out with us. The NASA BBQ
is
> > Saturday nite, and it's free (we help them out with setup and
serving, since
> > they treat us so well). If there are enough of
us, NASA gives us our own
> > Team3S Parade lap and parking area (last
time was right next to the hot
> > pits!). As always, we can take
photos together, as well. If you missed my
> > other post, see my
Race Report and links to the ~200 photos we took last
> > time:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htm
We had a BALL!!! Let's do it again!
> >
> >
Best,
> >
> > Forrest
> >
> >
--------------------
> > > I want to thank Bob for his generosity
and hard work, both for taking all
> > the pictures and then arranging
them for posting on to the List. It took a
> > lot of work and
more important, it took away from his driving time at Sears
> >
Point. The pictures are wonderful for those of us who were there,
bringing
> > back memories of experiences and people which were very
transitory. It was
> > a great weekend and the pictures, thanks
to Bob, will help us relive the
> > feelings.
> > > Now
that you are puffed up, what about the promise that you were going to
>
> help organize another smaller Sears Point gathering for the weekend of
Dec
> > 1&2?
> > > Ann--Blue '93 Stealth TT w/ Big Red
package and 18" wheels
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:16:42
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a
Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
The very first chart
on this page
(
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
shows that by
the time our engines are are at 3000 RPM with 15 psi they are
sucking down
163 CFM of air per bank. Now at 3000 RPM if you are WOT
your turbos should
be close to fully spooled and capably of moving 265 CFM of
air each. It
isn't untill some where between 20 and 25 PSI that the
engine can eat up 256
CFM per bank. So I guess taking off my MBC would
not be a very wise
decision. Nevermind!!
- -T.J. 1992 3000GT
VR-4
AKA "Stupid, the Kid"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 20:17:19
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
The last time I
talked to Frank(Kormex) he said that he had NEW 6spds for
our cars. He
was able to buy a bunch of them at an auction and would sell
them for $2500
w/ exchange. I questioned him and he assured me that they
were brand
new trannys. He also has "rebuilt" 5spds with xfer case for
$2000 w/
exchange.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>I don't think you're
going to get a factory transmission for $2600 ----
>that
>may be
dealer cost but you're going to pay $5k or more. Kormex
sells
>reconditioned units for $2000+.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 21:36:13
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Do I Need a Boost Controller?
Right on.. more boost = more fun
=)
Your assumption on the turbo inadequacy is the correct one. They
simply cannot
push enough air at the high rpm's to maintain a high level of
boost. Larger
turbos is the only route to improve high rpm
boost.
However, it is 'possible' to get more boost, I am getting 1.25bar
(18-19psi)
momentarily at low rpms, BUT I have alcohol injection to deter
detonation (spark
knock). As I understand it, you will need either a
better fuel system or
alcohol injection to safely exceed 15psi.
Plugging the wastegate tubes is one
way to get above 15psi, but again be sure
you're ready for it.. it will be the
fastest possible spool up and the
highest possible boost level achieveable on
the 9B's. Nope, no
drawbacks other than that!
Check out more info at:
www.stealth316.com, compliments of Jeff
Lucius. =)
Ken
- --
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth
RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad
Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig
Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN
spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
Best
(pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
Thomas
Jeys wrote:
> I thought I'd get the list's opinion before I did
something that was
> potentially very stupid. As I watch my
(aftermarket) boost gauge, I notice
> that I only hit 15psi (the presure I
have my aftermarket boost controller
> set to) for but a slight instant
before the rev's of the engine gobble up
> all my boost. I end up
coming to rest at about 13lbs untill I shift (aprox
> 5800rpm). The
story is about the same in all the gears with the exception
> of
5th. In fith, if I'm at about 2700 rpm and floorboard it, I'll
hang
> around 15psi for just a little bit longer.
>
> My
question is this: considering the fact that I have stock turbos, if I
>
took off my MBC and pluged up the vacume tubes wouldn't I get abour the
same
> amount of boost I'm getting right now? Do you think I'd be
playing with
> fire if I didn't use my waste gates at all? Has
anyone tried this? Were
> there any
benifits/drawbacks?
>
> It seems to me that those tiny little 9B's
just can't move enough air fast
> enough to build a dangerous ammount of
boost on our 3liter engine.
>
> (these are the kinds of thoughts
that kept me out of the really good
> schools)
>
> -T.J. 1992
3000GT VR-4
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester
(NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight
17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug
plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:38:40
-0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is cancelled???
Sandie,
I feel
for you. I have been there with my output shaft and short block.
I
fought for four months without a lawyer and won. The lawyer might
have
shortened it a bit.
But I went to this link and read it. I
did exactly what was on the link and
I got my new engine.
http://www.bendover.com/Complain.ASPIf
you want my whole story and what I did, please let me know and we can
either
talk on the phone or I can type it up.
Good Luck.
Rgds
Moe
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 2:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: My Platinum Warranty is
cancelled???
> I've had a Platinum Warranty (
http://www.platinumwarrantycorp.com/)
>
since I bought my '91 VR-4 a couple years ago. Now I'm at the end of the
>
warrantee (99,500 miles) and my transmission just went. My repair shop,
>
called Platinum, gave them my policy number and they told him to "open
>
it up" and they would send out an inspector.
>
> So, my mechanic
took apart the transmission, but then two days later
> Platinum called
back and said that my warrantee has been cancelled
> because they have
already paid out more money on my car than its
> wholesale
value.
>
> I called Platinum and they said they've already paid
$4,600 over the
> last two years (which they have, and I can't deny that).
However, they
> state that the Wholesale insurance value of the car
(explained to me as
> "what an insurance company would pay you if you
totaled your car") is
> only $4,425. Thus according to the Platinum
Warranty contract (I quote):
> "The total liability Platinum Warranty will
pay for the warranty period
> is the wholesale book value of the vehicle,
as deemed by insurance
> company."
>
> I Platinum where they
came up with this $4,425 figure and they said they
> looked up my VIN on
their Black Book (
http://www.blackbookusa.com).
>
So... a couple of issues here:
>
> 1. They shouldn't have told my
mechanic take apart my
> transmission if they had no intention of covering
any claims.
> 2. Is that really the wholesale value of a 1991 VR-4?
According
> to the Kelly Blue Book site even if I traded that car in I
should get
> $7,300
> (
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;376224&;t&39;Mitsubishi;1991%>
203000GT&11;MI;G3&)
> 3. Can they really do this? I purchased the
warranty
> specifically for the transmission because I've heard how
expensive they
> can be on the VR-4. Plus I called AllState and Farmers
insurance and
> they both said they if I "totaled" the car they would have
to pay the
> full market price (my cost to replace the car) not some sort
of
> wholesale cost (which would never replace the car for me as a
private
> owner).
>
> Any ideas or suggestions
here?
>
> -MM
> Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:44:16
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Do
I Need a Boost Controller?
The whole concept of boost control revolves
around controlling the waste
gate opening. If you plug them it certainly will
increase and you can
bet on a blown motor with your setup. This is a silly
idea. Can't
believe no one has said this.
Ken Stanton wrote:
>
> Right on.. more boost = more fun =)
>
> Your assumption on
the turbo inadequacy is the correct one. They simply cannot
> push
enough air at the high rpm's to maintain a high level of boost.
Larger
> turbos is the only route to improve high rpm boost.
>
> However, it is 'possible' to get more boost, I am getting 1.25bar
(18-19psi)
> momentarily at low rpms, BUT I have alcohol injection to
deter detonation (spark
> knock). As I understand it, you will need
either a better fuel system or
> alcohol injection to safely exceed
15psi. Plugging the wastegate tubes is one
> way to get above 15psi,
but again be sure you're ready for it.. it will be the
> fastest
possible spool up and the highest possible boost level achieveable on
>
the 9B's. Nope, no drawbacks other than that!
>
> Check out
more info at:
>
www.stealth316.com, compliments of Jeff
Lucius. =)
>
> Ken
> --
> Ken Stanton
> '91
Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
> 3Si Rochester (NY)
> FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
> AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
> Improved
Precats
> HKS SSBOV
> Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
>
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
> Aiwa MP3 Stereo
> 007KEN spark
plug plate, license plates
> ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
>
> Best (pathetic) time:
> 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
>
> Thomas Jeys wrote:
>
> > I thought I'd
get the list's opinion before I did something that was
> > potentially
very stupid. As I watch my (aftermarket) boost gauge, I notice
>
> that I only hit 15psi (the presure I have my aftermarket boost
controller
> > set to) for but a slight instant before the rev's of the
engine gobble up
> > all my boost. I end up coming to rest at
about 13lbs untill I shift (aprox
> > 5800rpm). The story is
about the same in all the gears with the exception
> > of 5th. In
fith, if I'm at about 2700 rpm and floorboard it, I'll hang
> > around
15psi for just a little bit longer.
> >
> > My question is
this: considering the fact that I have stock turbos, if I
> > took off
my MBC and pluged up the vacume tubes wouldn't I get abour the same
> >
amount of boost I'm getting right now? Do you think I'd be playing
with
> > fire if I didn't use my waste gates at all? Has anyone
tried this? Were
> > there any benifits/drawbacks?
>
>
> > It seems to me that those tiny little 9B's just can't move
enough air fast
> > enough to build a dangerous ammount of boost on our
3liter engine.
> >
> > (these are the kinds of thoughts that
kept me out of the really good
> > schools)
> >
> >
-T.J. 1992 3000GT VR-4
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> --
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White Stealth
RT/TT
> 3Si Rochester (NY)
> FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
> AVC-R
(1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
> Improved Precats
> HKS
SSBOV
> Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
> 6 speed conversion,
RPS Stage II
> Aiwa MP3 Stereo
> 007KEN spark plug plate, license
plates
> ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
>
> Best (pathetic)
time:
> 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:46:18
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Do I Need a Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
I don't
think they'll get into the 25 range but 20 is not unreasonable. Running
your
engine at 20 psi without serious mods is like putting 120 volts on a 12
volt
bulb ---- It'll burn really bright for a very short period of
time.
To run 20 psi you need upgraded fuel system,fuel controller, race
gas and a
lot of time
tuning.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net>
To: Team 3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 16, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a Boost
Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
> The very first chart on
this page
> (
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
shows that by
> the time our engines are are at 3000 RPM with 15 psi they
are sucking down
> 163 CFM of air per bank. Now at 3000 RPM if you
are WOT your turbos should
> be close to fully spooled and capably of
moving 265 CFM of air each. It
> isn't untill some where between 20
and 25 PSI that the engine can eat up 256
> CFM per bank. So I guess
taking off my MBC would not be a very wise
> decision.
Nevermind!!
>
> -T.J. 1992 3000GT VR-4
> AKA "Stupid, the
Kid"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 21:07:11
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Do I Need a Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net>
To: Team 3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, November 16, 2001 8:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a Boost
Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
>The very first chart on this
page
>(
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
shows that by
>the time our engines are are at 3000 RPM with 15 psi they
are sucking down
>163 CFM of air per bank. Now at 3000 RPM if you
are WOT your turbos should
>be close to fully spooled and capably of
moving 265 CFM of air each. It
>isn't untill some where between 20
and 25 PSI that the engine can eat up
256
>CFM per bank. So I
guess taking off my MBC would not be a very wise
>decision.
Nevermind!!
One should keep in mind that those figures wouldn't be
accurate after
mods like overboring, head work, porting, exhaust
enhancements,
camwork etc etc (basically anything that increases
the volumetic
efficiency of the *stock* motor. Are there any of those
around
anymore?! :)
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 22:05:41
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Do I Need a Boost Controller?
What?! Silly?! That's
pretty insulting man...
Whyfore would you say such a
thing?
Ken
Richard wrote:
> The whole concept of boost
control revolves around controlling the waste
> gate opening. If you plug
them it certainly will increase and you can
> bet on a blown motor with
your setup. This is a silly idea. Can't
> believe no one has said
this.
>
> Ken Stanton wrote:
> >
> > Right on..
more boost = more fun =)
> >
> > Your assumption on the turbo
inadequacy is the correct one. They simply cannot
> > push enough
air at the high rpm's to maintain a high level of boost. Larger
>
> turbos is the only route to improve high rpm boost.
> >
>
> However, it is 'possible' to get more boost, I am getting 1.25bar
(18-19psi)
> > momentarily at low rpms, BUT I have alcohol injection to
deter detonation (spark
> > knock). As I understand it, you will
need either a better fuel system or
> > alcohol injection to safely
exceed 15psi. Plugging the wastegate tubes is one
> > way to get
above 15psi, but again be sure you're ready for it.. it will be
the
> > fastest possible spool up and the highest possible boost level
achieveable on
> > the 9B's. Nope, no drawbacks other than
that!
> >
> > Check out more info at:
> >
www.stealth316.com, compliments of Jeff
Lucius. =)
> >
> > Ken
> > --
> > Ken
Stanton
> > '91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
> > 3Si Rochester
(NY)
> > FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
> > AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
> > Improved Precats
> > HKS SSBOV
> >
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
> > 6 speed conversion, RPS
Stage II
> > Aiwa MP3 Stereo
> > 007KEN spark plug plate,
license plates
> > ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
> >
>
> Best (pathetic) time:
> > 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
> >
> > Thomas Jeys wrote:
> >
> >
> I thought I'd get the list's opinion before I did something that
was
> > > potentially very stupid. As I watch my (aftermarket)
boost gauge, I notice
> > > that I only hit 15psi (the presure I
have my aftermarket boost controller
> > > set to) for but a slight
instant before the rev's of the engine gobble up
> > > all my
boost. I end up coming to rest at about 13lbs untill I shift
(aprox
> > > 5800rpm). The story is about the same in all the
gears with the exception
> > > of 5th. In fith, if I'm at
about 2700 rpm and floorboard it, I'll hang
> > > around 15psi for
just a little bit longer.
> > >
> > > My question is
this: considering the fact that I have stock turbos, if I
> > > took
off my MBC and pluged up the vacume tubes wouldn't I get abour the same
>
> > amount of boost I'm getting right now? Do you think I'd be
playing with
> > > fire if I didn't use my waste gates at all?
Has anyone tried this? Were
> > > there any
benifits/drawbacks?
> > >
> > > It seems to me that
those tiny little 9B's just can't move enough air fast
> > > enough
to build a dangerous ammount of boost on our 3liter engine.
> >
>
> > > (these are the kinds of thoughts that kept me out of the
really good
> > > schools)
> > >
> > > -T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
> > >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > --
> > Ken Stanton
> > '91 Pearl
White Stealth RT/TT
> > 3Si Rochester (NY)
> > FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
> > AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
> > Improved
Precats
> > HKS SSBOV
> > Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight
17"
> > 6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
> > Aiwa MP3
Stereo
> > 007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
> > ASC
sunroof, white Ram emblem
> >
> > Best (pathetic)
time:
> > 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/
poorly tuned alky)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 22:10:48
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Do I Need a Boost Controller? Info addition.
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net>
>To: Team 3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Friday, November 16, 2001 8:17 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a Boost
Controller? (Evidense to kill my theory)
>
>
>>The very
first chart on this page
>>(
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
shows that
by
BTW - very nice page Jeff. As an info junkie I
came away quiet satisfied.
Here's a little something to help you fill in
some blanks:
368
Garrett T3 - 60 Trim T28
Turbine wheel : Mitsu
TE04H
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 05:51:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do transmissions have to be factory sealed?
As Mark pointed
out, Frank Martin (Kormex) was indeed selling brand
new 6-spd trannies at an
excellent price (there was another shop also
doing this). I don't know if he
has any left. He advertized this
special on 3SI this summer. Now if Frank can
get them and sell them
for a profit at $2500-2600, it makes you wonder how
much dealers are
ripping us off at $4000+ for trannies (with the exception of
Rich's
Iowa dealer). Well "ripping off" is a harsh term, I guess 100% is
a
normal markup when you have a "monopoly" on a product. Many thanks
to
Frank and others for breaking Mitsu's monopoly.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- Jim Berry
<
fastmax@home.com> wrote:
> I
don't think you're going to get a factory transmission for $2600
> ----
that
> may be dealer cost but you're going to pay $5k or more.
Kormex
> sells
> reconditioned units for $2000+.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 06:04:41
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do I Need a Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my
theory)
Folks please use my geocities web site. Eric has locked me out of
my
old 3SI site since April, and I have been trying to get him to
remove
the files. The geocities site has the most current info.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmThe
table on the web page above that T.J. refers to contains the
theoretical
maximum (outside uncompressed air) flow in our engines
with 100% replacement
of air in the combustion chamber (100% VE) at
various boost levels. Any
reduction in engine effciency will increase
boost but reduce (or at least not
increase) flow. This theoretical
chart does not consider whether the exhaust
can actually spin the
turbo up to its max flow level at low RPM.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net> wrote:
>
The very first chart on this page
> (
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
shows
> that by
> the time our engines are are at 3000 RPM with 15
psi they are
> sucking down
> 163 CFM of air per bank. Now at
3000 RPM if you are WOT your
> turbos should
> be close to fully
spooled and capably of moving 265 CFM of air
> each. It
>
isn't untill some where between 20 and 25 PSI that the engine can
> eat up
256
> CFM per bank. So I guess taking off my MBC would not be a
very
> wise
> decision. Nevermind!!
>
> -T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
> AKA "Stupid, the Kid"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 06:21:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do I Need a Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my
theory)
Uh, Todd, that table was calculated at 100% VE for a stock
sized
engine. It is not physically possible to push more air through.
The
chamber can only fill 100% percent, no more. Changing anything
except
displacement does not change the tables values. Even a
0.075"
overbore only increases displacement to 3100 cc, a 4.3% increase
in
size! For almost every engine at any RPM, VE will be less than
100%.
Now if you were really clever and understood engines, you might
have
suggested the following. That table uses the *displacement* as
the
amount of air that can be replaced in the cylinder. There is also
the
volume of the combustion chamber that can be filled. That
would
represent approximately 1/8th (12.5%) increase in
capacity.
Unfortuantely, I am not smart enough to know if more air will
enter
the cylinder than that represented by the swept area (displacement).
Porting, cams, exhaust, VPC, etc. does not affect the values in
the
table. For those interested in what I have guessed at for VE for
our
stock and modded engines, please read down farther on the page
to
where I show and interpret compressor flow maps.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
"Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Jeys
<
tj@jeys.net>
> To: Team 3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Friday, November 16, 2001 8:17 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Do I Need a
Boost Controller? (Evidense to kill my
> theory)
>
>
>
>The very first chart on this page
> >(
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm)
<snip>
>
One should keep in mind that those figures wouldn't be accurate
>
after
> mods like overboring, head work, porting, exhaust
enhancements,
> camwork etc etc (basically anything that
increases the volumetic
> efficiency of the *stock* motor. Are there
any of those around
> anymore?! :)
>
> - tds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 09:21:42
-0500
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
Absolutely not. I have a 93 R/T with over
141,000 miles on it and it barely
burns a half quart or so every 3000
miles.
Robert
3/Si #311
'93 R/T
'00 Intrepid
>and the
mechanic told me that it is normal to add 1
> quart of oil per 1,000
miles. Is this true? My owners manual said that
> it is normal to add oil
between changes, but didn't say how much. I
> thought that 2 1/2 quarts
was a little much. You guys are the experts
> (and the owners). What do
you think?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 08:19:22
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3000 uses oil
I have to agree that 2½ quarts per 3000 miles sounds
excessive --- I have
about 3000 miles with 2 race weekends on my car and
added less than
½ qt at the last track session just to top it off. Having
said that even new
cars will burn oil sometimes --- if you take your new car
into the dealer
and tell him it's using 2qts per 3000 miles he'll probably
tell you that's it's
within the factory tolerances <shrug>.
BTY ---
it's a 93 with 60,000 miles.
Jim
Berry
=====================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Robert Booker <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
To:
Kimberly Byrd <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, November 17, 2001 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000 uses
oil
> Absolutely not. I have a 93 R/T with over 141,000 miles
on it and it barely
> burns a half quart or so every 3000
miles.
>
> Robert
> 3/Si #311
> '93 R/T
> '00
Intrepid
>
> >and the mechanic told me that it is normal to add
1
> > quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Is this true? My owners manual said
that
> > it is normal to add oil between changes, but didn't say how
much. I
> > thought that 2 1/2 quarts was a little much. You guys are
the experts
> > (and the owners). What do you think?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:49:38
-0800
From: "The Rhoden Family (
Rhoden@EasyStreet.com)" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need mechanic in Portland, OR &/or diagnostic help
I just
bought a 1992 3000GT VR-4 with 106,000 miles, so I have not acquired
a
diagnostic manual or found a mechanic.
I was accelerating from a stop
when I experienced a loss of power and some
backfire. I pulled over and
the engine idled, but sounded a bit off tune.
When I press the accelerator
the engine revs up and pressure builds in the
turbo, but the engine stalls
when I let out the clutch. I can actually get
it to go on a flat
stretch though the engine runs rough, but it stalls on
even a moderate
hill. Don't worry, this isn't the result of extensive
testing, just
what I found when getting it off the road. There may have
been some
smoke on startup, but it was dark so I couldn't tell for sure.
I don't
have a diagnostic and repair manual yet (I looked around first
thing, but I'd
guess they're not common on the shelves of book stores or
parts shops).
So, unless I want to have it towed a block to my home (yes, I
was that close)
then wait a few weeks until a manual is delivered, I'm
afraid I'll need to
send it to a shop.
If anyone has an idea of a repair I can try I'd
appreciate it. Diagnostic
suggestions will be appreciated.
Speculation as to the ultimate problem
will be
appreciated.
Unfortunately I'll probably be most likely to rely on
referrals to good
mechanics or shops in Portland Oregon. I live in the
Cedar Mill
neighborhood on the west side, north of Hwy. 26. Absent
referrals I'm
likely to have the car towed to the Mitsubishi shop on Canyon
Road.
Please feel free to call me at 503-626-1046 as early as you want
Saturday,
it will probably be a sleepless night looking for internet
resources.
Thanks.
Michael Rhoden
P.S. I'm copying this
message to a few folks who Bob Forrest says "KNOW
where to get things done"
in the Portland area.
P.P.S. Special thanks to Bob of the Admin
team for getting me signed up and
giving my message special
attention.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#676
***************************************