Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, February 12 2004  Volume 02 : Number 369
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:39:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need suggestions on NOS
you can safely use up to about 60 shot of nos    I have seen 75 shots of nos work for a long time as well but over sixty is risking accelerated wear on rings and other parts of the motor. yes, nos will help but if you are looking for a small power boost, you may want to start with the parts of the car that have flaws. mitsubishi tends to starve their engines of air at higher rpms so a larger throttle body helps a lot. Also, you can get your computer chipped for a nice gain. for the price of nos you can get the same power boost out of a computer chip. only difference is the chip is non wear and tear, and constant. My recommendation is that NOS is a final upgrade when you don't have anything else you are willing to upgrade and want just a little extra just in case. there are dozens of upgrades you can make that WILL make you feel the difference. It's up to you buddy
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:57:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Disaster
    Ok dan,
 I get what you are saying completely. I do have some questions too. first off, you said in your 27 years of working on cars, right. So why didn't you change the brake pads and rotors yourself? you could have saved about $750 dollars to start. second, it is a well known fact that these cars love to eat brakes. Especially since we all drive them a little aggressively. It really just sounds like the brakes wore out as they do, and started eating the rotors. There is a possibility that there was an installation problem but it would be hard to prove. the only way a brake pad can come out of the calipers is if the caliper is not bolted in all the way or there is damage to the caliper itself.    if the mechanic has not fixed it yet, I would look to see what kind of failure happened in the first place.  Oh yeah, how old is your son. Ya know I have seen many a cars broken by the great inexperienced driving styles of male drivers. stomp on the gas, Jam on the break seems to make sens
e to them. I recommend you replace the rotors with some cross drilled rotors. they stay cooler and will cause less break problems in the future. might want to get some better than factory pads as well. good luck with your mechanic.
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:55:26 -0000
From: "Alex Judd" <>
Subject: London, UK based GTO vacuum expert? [was Re: Team3S: Vacuum tube replacement]
|[RG] I highly recommend you to find someone in your area that can help you for a minute. It does work much better that way and making an error is less possible. Obviously there is something missing and not well installed so be very careful. I'd rip iout just everything of the tubing an reisntall from the green field with the diagrams.
[AJ] Agreeing with Rogers sentiments above that I don't know turbo engines, and there's a fair amount out of place with my vacuum tubing - does anyone have a recommendation of a London, UK based (or nearby) expert that can help me out? Obviously be more than happy to pay for their time.
I spent more time inspecting the engine yesterday and I still have more questions than answers...
Kindest regards
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:42:26 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <>
Subject: Team3S: Re: London, UK based GTO vacuum expert?
I think it would be well worth your time to read the service manuals, research/read to understand the operation of the vacuum/pressure-related components of engine management, and then study your particular engine setup. It really is not that complicated. Ask specific questions here or at You will be rewarded not only by saving some money but with the satisfaction of and ability to being able to repair and modify your car.
Some reference books are listed at my web page below.
To get you started, let me summarize how boost is controlled.
The exhaust gas can flow through the turbine wheel, which then spins the compressor wheel on the other end of the same shaft to compress the intake air and create boost. Or the exhaust gas can flow around the turbine wheel and through the wastegate (a "trapdoor" or hinged "door"). When the wastegate is closed air goes through the turbine wheel. When the wastegate is partially open the turbine wheel slows down or does not accelerate as fast. When the wastegate is fully open the turbine wheel should not spin much (no compressed air will be produced).
The wastegate is controlled by an actuator connected to it by a rod. A spring in the actuator holds the wastegate closed. The actuator has a hose connecting it to the Y-pipe. When pressure in that hose reaches 6-7 psi (for the factory TD04-9B turbocharger), the spring pressure in the actuator is overcome and the wastegate opens.
Boost control is achieved by regulating the pressure in the hose that goes to the actuator. If pressure in that hose is less than ~6-7 psi, then the wastegate does not open and the turbine wheel spins according to the amount of exhaust gas energy (heat), mass, and velocity.
Manual and electronic boost controllers work by regulating when and how much Y-pipe air pressure is allowed into the actuator hose(s). This is achieved by restricting the hose or bleeding air out of the hose.
For our car's factory boost control, all the hoses connect to an "H" fitting. One arm of the "H" gose to the Y-pipe (source of pressure), two arms of the "H" go to the two wastegate actuators (they work at the same time), the 4th arm of the "H" goes to the boost control solenoid. The BC solenoid bleeds air (pressure) out of that hose (and into the intake hose in front of the rear turbo) and so allows boost to build above 6-7 psi. If 2 psi of pressure is bled off, then boost (plenum pressure) will be 8-9 psi before the wastegates open. If the BC solenoid does not bleed air off (is closed) then boost is limited to 6-7 psi and the driver's right foot (or engine load).
What you may want to do is identify the following on your car and see where your boost controller (factory or otherwise) fits in and if it is installed correctly. You may need the service manuals for some of this. Also search the web (
1) each turbo wastegate actuator (a "can" connected to the turbo by a rod)
2) the hoses connecting to each actuator
3) the small hose that connects to the Y-pipe
4) how hoses in #2 and #3 are connected together (might be through the boost control solenoid for an aftermarket controller)
5) the boost control device and how it controls air going from hose #3 (Y-pipe) into the two hoses in #2 (to the actuators)
Be sure no hoses are open to the atmosphere. Be sure the small hose from the factory BC solenoid to the large intake hose (there is a nipple on the large hose) in front of the rear turbo is not open to the atmosphere. Be sure each hose is routed correctly.
You will also want to be sure there are no leaks in the intake system. I have some tips for this on my web page below. Leaks, or improper boost controller installation, can cause the problems.
Note that an aftermarket boost gauge must be connected to the plenum, not the Y-pipe.
Be patient. Study. Be systematic. Take notes.
Hope this gets you started.
Jeff Lucius,
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:41:42 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on NOS
Top 4 Fastest NA are all NOS. #2 is an automatic!
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:49:53 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Disaster
> second, it is a well known fact that these
> cars love to eat brakes. Especially since we all
> drive them a little aggressively.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that it's a well-known fact.  I owned a NA 3000GT for over 50,000 miles (total of 80,000), and I never changed the brake pads, front or rear.  They still had over 50% left when I sold the car.  I bought my VR-4 with 53k miles on it, and it's got 75k now.  I haven't replaced the OEM pads, and I think they may be the factory originals. 
I don't abuse my cars, but I certainly don't drive them like a grandma, either.  It seems to me that the brake problems on our cars are more related warping or bedding than excessive wear.  Sure, some people have reported excessive wear, but it doesn't seem all that common.
> I recommend you replace the rotors with some cross
> drilled rotors. they stay cooler and will cause less break
> problems in the future. might want to get some better than
> factory pads as well.
Dan, before you consider cross-drilled rotors, check out the archives for some of the problems people have had with them on our cars... like breaking them.  Also, since they have less thermal mass, they will generally get hotter than solid-face rotors.  Additionally, many of them (especially the ones that are drilled and not chamfered) will cause even more accelerated pad wear due to the "cheese grater" action.  And yeah, that's the technical term :-) 
As for pads, if you're willing to tolerate somewhat accelerated pad/rotor wear and more dusting than OEM pads, you can look at "performance" pads.  If the car is driven only on the street and you like seeing nice clean wheels, then the OEM pads are probably your best option.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:13:25 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <>
Subject: RE: London, UK based GTO vacuum expert? [was Re: Team3S: Vacuum tube replacement]
Have you posted this request to the GTOUK forums?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England, UK
       *** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155 ***
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:42:33 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <>
Subject: Team3S: Motor Mount Question...
Anyone see any problems with running OEM (new) mounts (motor and transaxle mounts) with polyurethane roll stoppers (front and rear mounts)?
I'm planning to pull the rear roll-stopper out tonight (already got the heat shield off and all that jazz), and I'm guessing it's like the front one in that there's no/little weight on it when the engine is just "sitting there" in the other 3 mounts.
The reason for the question is that I'm not sure I want to have all the mounts be polyurethane due to NVH and ease of moving the engine around a bit to work in the engine bay.  If my above proposal doesn't have any big drawbacks, I would be able to limit the rolling motion of the engine with the poly roll-stoppers and maintain some of the vibration dampening associated with the OEM fluid-filled motor mounts (the weight-bearing ones on the sides). 
Will that work, or is it, "quit being a wuss and stick the darned poly mounts in there for all four of them"?
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 17:41:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor Mount Question... wont be a problem.
Id say the main mounts do most of the hard work, and the side mounts are
more of a cradle with some damping of "twist" to the drivetrain.
- ---
"If it's in stock, we have it!"
Team3S/ Vendor approved brake discounter.
NASA USTCC brake vendor and lead Pro-7 Sponsor.
New OEM parts for Toyota shipped worldwide.
"If its in stock, we have it!"
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:49:29 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Motor Mount Question...
I actually think that's a great idea, and considered it when I replaced
mine. My transmission-side mount was pretty shot though. So I just went
with all poly mounts, which were slightly less expensive than stock
ones.  The reason I think it's a great idea is that many people say that
with all poly mounts, you have more vibration at idle, perhaps with half
as many mounts to transmit the vibration, it's half as bad. 
- -Jeff Crabtree
 '91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI #0499)
  2K Jeep TJ Sport
   St. Louis, MO
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:31:44 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor Mount Question...
This is a coincidental.  I'm doing this same motor mount exercise this
weekend (OEM left/Right & 3SX Polys bottom) and wondered the same thing
you're now asking. I didn't pre-plan this combo as you may be doing to
reduce vibration but am also presuming this may be the effect.
I had new OEM mounts installed at same time (month ago) an RPS Carbon Carbon
was installed  but now there is more engine movement and causing plenum
contact with the TEC Strut bar.  Maybe OEM's would also correct this
situation but decided to be certain of the cure - so I ordered the 2
remaining polys.
Oh..and thanks for posting the "how to change motor mount" type of question
out on 3SI.  Tracked a bunch of useful info down off of that thread.
97 VR4 ~94K
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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 21:28:53 +1300
From: doug <>
Subject: Team3S: Cut-out
Hello list members
I have a problem where my 1992 3000GT VR-4 is becoming hard to start
when cold.  The car sometimes will start ok, other times it struggles
like it is not getting too much fuel.  If it starts OK then it runs at
good idle speed when warm, but if I have had one of those mornings where
it does not start well then engine will drop in revs without
acceleration and stall when warm.
I have no problem starting the car when warm, on struggles at times when
cold.  When using acceleration during start it will rev up well enough
but then just cut out.  Is there some kind of automatic choke problem or
something along those lines?  Looking forward to some help.
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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:25:48 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor Mount Question...
The rear roll stop mount is similar to the left/right mounts in that the
through hole in the mount is just slightly larger than the bolt. The front
roll stop mount has quite a bit of clearance. Thus, I'm thinking you may
find the rear mount to have force on the bolt. You may want to put a jack
under the transmission if you find the bolt to be tight.
I put in the 3SX polyurethane mounts when I replaced my engine. At first I
thought the engine was running rough. However, when I would listen to the
engine from outside the car it sounded normal. I've figured out that the
new mounts are transmitting sound into the passenger compartment. It sounds
like about 20 percent of a Borla exhaust. It's low enough that I have yet
to think it will be annoying. I'm thinking that by keeping the OEM style
mounts for the left/right you will probably have very good sound/vibration
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gerhard           1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #369