Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, December 9
2003 Volume 02 : Number 318
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Omar,
You are mostly right, except I would say there is a
"close fit" under the 1st gen wheels. I wouldn't use it on the track, but
I believe some use them on the street.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 08:48:40 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Upgrade for Autobahn Driving?
second gen front
rotors are larger diameter than 1st gen, thus the second gen front calipers have
a longer mounting arm to accomodate the larger diameter rotor. Drivers
side and passenger side calipers are different. you have to specify which
generation to get the right rotors - Porterfield sells both.
Chuck
Willis
------------------------------
Hi to All
Wondering if anyone has a good person or web site that they can send
me
about gauges. I'm looking of around the same style as the stock
gauges.
It is going to be on a Blue 1991 Dodge Stealth RT. Thanks for
any
information..
Kraig
1991 Dodge Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 17:24:16 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Upgrade for Autobahn Driving?
Pete,
Many of your questions are
addressed in Jeff Lucas' informative "Brake
Upgrade Options for the AWD
3000GT/Stealth" document at
http://www.stealth316.com/2-brakeupgrade.htm
as well as the Team3S "Brake
Upgrades FAQ" at
http://www.team3s.com/FAQbrakeupgr.htm.
Omar raises a good
point about wheel clearance, but from what Chuck says it
sounds like certain
1st gen wheels may [barely] accommodate the 2nd gen
calipers. Again, I find
MitsuPartsDirect.Com reasonably priced and
responsive to my APO, but I
wouldn't buy stock calipers new; if you're
willing to spend that kind of
money, check with Philip at
Supercar-Engineering.Com to explore custom
upgrade options (better calipers,
floating rotors, etc.). The SOFA exempts
you from the full TÜV
inspection, so the changes you're considering
shouldn't be an issue.
Good luck!
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS
lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:36:15 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Borla resonance (was: Hi-flow cats)
This from a post to the GTOUK exhaust forum:
%%%%%
I recently bought a Borla.
550$ U.S. dollars from Summit Racing.
I have the ATR Downpipe also, it elimnates the cat.
I have heard people having problems with "resonance".
Borla used to give away a "resonator" if you called them up and
complained.
It is a round 3 inch ring of steel that caves in(your weld this
in the front
of the large pipe), but I believe Borla changed their design as
of late(last
year) to adjust this problem.
My Borla has a "slight" indent
where the downpip meets the dp(you could not
install the resonater if you
wanted since you couldnt fit it in.
%%%%%
Interesting. Did Borla actually make a recent design change?
And does it
REALLY work?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 14:11:23 -0800 (PST)
From:
vr4glenn@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
Front Active Aero Dam
I can't find the MD for the active aero dam for my 1st gen ('93)
vr-4. Does
anyone have the number and/or remember the price?
Thanks much,
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 14:25:44 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Active Aero Dam
Section 42-610 (Body - Loose Panel) of CAPS.
PNC:
66015B
P/N:
MB867826
MSRP:
$375.12
Rockville: $300.10
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:21:08 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Coolant temp
Hi All.
I am trying to troubleshoot an issue that I have with my car. As
stated
earlier, the car starts just fine when cold, starts just fine when hot
but
has real hard time starting when warm. The mixture is WAY too rich and
until
the O2 sensors start oscillating (warm up). I had issues with the O2
sensors
anyway so I got them replaced. My rich condition seems to be
mostly
corrected now, but the warm-start problem is still there.
I have confirmed that the IAC/ISC is working properly and that the
O2
sensors are both working to spec. The idea that has been brought up
before
was the coolant sensor. I have been looking at mine with the dataloger
and
it seems to be working, but I do not know if the readouts I am getting
from
it are normal. I am in Western Washington, Seattle area and it has
been
around 40-45 degreed here past week, lots of rain per usual... What kind
of
coolant temp numbers should I be seeing and when? When kicking the crap
out
of the crar racing, I was able to push it past 200 degrees while
playing
around dodging some cones in a parking lot. When sitting at idle the
fan
keeps it right around 184 and under normal driving it rarely breaks 190.
Are
those the numbers I should be seeing or are they off whack?
The car BTW is a 92 VR4 with a JDM motor in it.
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:36:42 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
IAC
I read over the Jeff's site on how to clean and test the IAC. I think I
am
going to verify that mine is working... However, I would also like to
test
the harness and looking through the manual, I do not see any test
procedures
on how to test if the IAC harness is OK. Anyone have any
ideas?
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Method 1:
Look more closely at the manual. Specifically look at the
"MFI" section in the 3000GT manual or the "MPI" section in the Stealth manual.
The harness can be "checked" for sensors that connect to the ECU/ECM (why can't
Mitsu and Chrysler agree on the same name for the same components on the "same"
car?) by measuring the voltage at the ECU/ECM connector. This connector has
"flaps" on it at the outer edges that swing open (snap shut) to allow the easy
insertion of probes while the connector is attached to the ECU. The manual
identifies the ECU terminals and the voltages expected during different engine
operating conditions. An analog or digital voltmeter can be used; see the manual
for which to use for which terminals. For the IAC/ISC servo terminal, a
voltmeter will not report the steps but will report a fluctuating value. I have
verified this on my car ('92 TT).
Method 1a:
Use a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO) to monitor the steps
at the IAC/ISC or at the ECU/ECM.
Method 1b:
A simple continuity test (multimeter set to "ohms") on the
wire at the device (IAC/ISC) and at the ECU connector.
Method 2:
Use a datalogger to monitor the steps. If the steps look
correct then the harness is fine, except possibly for an intermittent problem
(heating of IAC motor, intermittent electrical connection of wires, etc.). So
use the datalogger with cold and hot engine and while "wiggling" the
wires.
Did you check the other possiblities mentioned in previous posts?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 13:29:37 +0100
From: Engelmann Peter A Maj AFELM
PEP <
peter.engelmann@ramstein.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Upgrade for Autobahn Driving?
Hmm, this puts a different light on the decision of 1st gen vs. 2nd
gen. I
wasn't anticipating having to get new wheels, and I anticipate
getting used
ones will be difficult in Hamburg.
Pete
------------------------------
Hello,
My air conditioning was working fine, but the
display was blank.
Reading some web pages, I decided to take it out and
check for bad
contacts or capacitor leaks. I may have done something wrong,
because I
pulled it out and the air conditioning was still working. I opened
it
(found nothing that would suggest a failure), and when I reconnected the
control panel, the air conditioning did not work anymore. I checked the
connections to make sure the contacts were good, but could not make it
work anymore. I checked the fuses in the engine bay today and they are
both good.
1) I read on the service manual that there is a
diagnostic connector
under the steering, but I could not find it. Is it the
one near the fuse
box?
2) Any suggestions on what could have
happened, and if I can do
anything to diagnose/fix it?
Thanks,
Cesar
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 14:06:25 +0100
From: Engelmann Peter A Maj AFELM
PEP <
peter.engelmann@ramstein.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Upgrade for Autobahn Driving?
Jim,
Thanks for the document links--I'd already found the second one, but
the
first one was new to me, and as you say, lots of good information there.
I
should find out later today what the status of my stock equipment
is--I'll
check with you and a couple of other folks who've responded to my
question
off-line as I narrow down what I'm going to do. I don't want
to tie up the
forum too much.
Thanks for the help!!
Pete
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 07:55:34 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink@w3si.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Coolant temp
Tyson,
I don't see anything wrong with your coolant temps.
Quite normal if you
ask me, and right on par with my car according to my
datalogger. When you
beat on it, you can reach slightly above 200
degrees, but normal driving is
usually around 185-190 or so - exactly what
mine does. I can't comment on
the other problems you're having since I
haven't been following your
previous posts, sorry.
Jesse Rink
Eagle, WI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:10:38 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Coolant temp
Tyson,
I agree with what
Jesse said - I've got a "real" temp gauge in my car, and coolant temp is
digitally displayed all the time. The coolant thermostat operates at 80C
(176F), so I never see it get below 78C (172F) once it's warmed up.
Depending on ambient temp, it will typically be between 80C(176F) and 92C(198F)
during normal driving. If I come to a stop right after driving hard and
idle the car, it sometimes creeps up as high as 98C(208F). On the dyno,
probably without adequate airflow, I saw 108C(226F) before I had the operator
shut her down.
Also, since you are having warm
start issues, I'll toss this in. If I drive the car enough to get things
nice and hot and then park the car (after appropriate idling, of course),
coolant temps can read pretty high when I restart the car. This generally
happens if it's hot outside (ambient temp.) and I start the car back up after it
sits for 10-20 minutes. I've seen as high as 102-104C (215F-219F) for a
second or two until the coolant starts circulating and then it drops right back
down to the mid-90s.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#318
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