Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 10
2003 Volume 02 : Number 296
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:52:30 -0500
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
It was always my understanding that you want a more narrow tire in
the
winter. As you say, the wider the tire the less pressure to the
ground, so
isn't it desirable to have more pressure (& traction) and
therefore a
smaller width? Or is that what you were trying to say, just
without saying
it directly? =)
I run a tire 10 smaller on the width for my winter car, they are a
great
year round tire that are also studdable if necessary (don't have the
brand
handy). However, here in Virginia, the state closes with 1" of
snow so
rarely do I need anything tough =P
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Never seen snow, never
will!
MSEE, Virginia Tech
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:29:12 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Yes, the narrower the tire the better traction in snow. But there are
some
discussions about that as some say that the wider the tire the more
grooves
can grab. It is my experience that narrower tires do have much
better
traction on snow (and I mean 1" to 10" where I went up a 45° hill
without a
problem and better than with my Audi A8 Quattro !!). Also the car
broke out
much less, less over and less understeer what is directly connected
with the
side traction and the ground pressure that can grab better.
I would go down to 225 if you don't drive faster than 110mph. If you do
more
then the tore must be able to withstand this speed and those are
not
narrower than 235 here. But they rule :-) ... 10 winters including
going
skiing up to 1500m with the car was fun, fun and fun. I just remember
the
people in Austria where they mounted the chains on the FWD cars and
could
not go up where I was crawling up in 2nd gear.
Roger G ... Switzerland = AWD-land ;-)
93 & 96 3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 14:36:41 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Thanks, Russ,
Yeah, I know that any of these soft compound ice tires will wear quickly
on
dry roads. Even moreso that I'm getting the next narrower size, a
225/45.
But I have to make this trip frequently, and safety is the primary
goal.
Secondary is watching out for the cars/trucks which *don't* have good
snow
tires. Seems that every time a big rig "loses it" on the hill, it
takes out a
dozen other cars. I'm pretty sure I'll get the Blizzak
WS-50's.
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 14:25:45 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Hey, Dennis,
Thanks for the input! I already tried my (new, but broken-in)
Ultra-High
Performance ES-100's (OK, they were a bit wider than stock,
255/40ZR17) and
they were all but useless in those conditions, but
surprisingly great in the
rain and slush. Although I'm sure an
all-weather tire will perform better
than an UHP tire, it still won't cut it
for driving over the mountain. In
fact, they don't even *allow* you on
the road past the checkpoint if you don't
have chains OR an AWD *with* 4 snow
tires. Period. This is a serious
mountain, with "runaway truck"
lanes just off-road about every mile on the
downhill sides, for the
all-too-common brake failure. I had been running my
car lowered 2"
(ultra-hard JIC suspension), but I raised it back up for the
last trip, so
chains would fit without trashing my fender walls. Try 3 hours
with
tire chains on a JIC suspension and you'll know how a bobblehead
toy
feels...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 14:50:43 -0800
From: "Admin-Team3S" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Thanks, Roger!
I know that a narrower tire gives a better "bite" on wet or icy roads, so
I'm
going with a 225/45. But the tires you list (and some you mentioned
last week
or so) are mostly unavailable here. And comparisons (and user
reviews) put
the Blizzaks at the top, here in the States. (Perhaps they
are named
differently in Europe). High-speed performance is out of the
question in this
situation. I know that I'll wear these Q-rated (99mph,
max) tires out
quickly, but there is no choice when going through a dangerous
area like
Donner Pass. I have to go with the best tire for that
specific stretch of
road, and that appears to be the WS-50,
225/45QR17.
Thanks to all for the input!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:00:18 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
If you watch the pro rally guys you'll notice that the tires used in
snow
conditions are much narrower than the tires they usually run. I
was
supprised when I first noticed it but I have to assume they know
what
they're doing.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 00:40:34 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
You should go with 225/50-17 to keep the proper wheel ratio. I highly
agree
with you getting the best you can for the winter driving purpose. This
is
why I tell people not to buy the cheapest one (like the Uniroyal or
Hankkok
here ... crap) just because its only for a few months.
The last driver training I had was in winter (love to slide around, but
my
pulse was often in the 180 range). This time, my car was way on top over
the
competition. Only an MX-3 was close to my results if not better ... damn,
it
was my mother in the car I bougth for her birthday (no joke ... LOL).
We
both had the same Continental winter tires.
Cheers
Roger
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 17:18:29 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Thanks for the info, Roger! I agree that buying the best tires are
cheap
insurance against failure and poor handling. The Q-rating may be
110mph in
Switzerland, but it is for UNDER 100mph in the USA! Snow
tires can "chunk" if
driven faster than their rated speed, so I'll respect
the rating. I'm sure
the noise would be horrible over 100,
anyway. And you're right that the
225/50-17 (diameter = 26.1"), is
slightly closer to our stock wheel diameter
of 25.7", while the 225/45-17 has
a diameter of 25.2". But they recommend a
wheel no larger than 8" wide
for the 50-series, and I'm using the stock wheel
(width=8.5"). For the
225/45-17, they recommend wheels up to 8.5" wide, which
is why I chose
it. As an added "plus", the slightly smaller wheel will
revolve more
times per mile, which will give me a speedometer reading that
says I'm going
2% *faster* than my actual speed. I've never had a speeding
ticket in
40+ years of driving fast, and I don't want one now just because my
speedo is
off the other way from using a larger tire! LOL!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:29:56 -0500
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
I can't figure out where to connect the harness going from the rear
O2
sensor. I found the front one on the front fuel rail but the
connector for
the rear sensor seems to be missing. Where exactly is the
location for the
rear o2 sensor connector and am I maybe missing it????
I
traid looking for it on the Stealth316.com but I could not find it.
Thanks a lot
Vet 94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:43:38 -0500
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
Going straight from memory, I believe it has a plug on top of the
timing
belt cover, near mid-engine. If it wasn't 20 out I would go
check!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 22:55:20 -0600
From: "Jesse Rink" <
jrink-3si@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
Maybe its different on the 94, but on my 91, the front O2 connector is
near
the starter in front of the valve cover and the rear O2 connector is
clipped
on the front fuel rail.
Jesse Rink
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 21:39:50 -0800
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
3S-Racers: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Hey Bob,
I've got the LM22Zs on my M3 right now (225/40/17s up front,
and 245/40/17s in rear) and they're an all around great tire! Quite, good
handling, good stability, everything I'd want out of an all season tire.
When I drove the car home from Salt Lake City, it was snowing the entire way
home. Didn't stop me from cruising at 80+ then entire way without a
hitch. Those tires are truly wonderful in snow, great in rain, and
actually pretty nice in dry also.
Last month, I took the M out to the track on the Blizzaks and I was nicely
surprised! They were very stable, held up great, showed very even wear,
and provide surprisingly good drip for such small tread blocks.
If you like, I'm actually looking to get rid of them for a more high
performance tire. I'd be willing to sell them to ya cheap.
Lemme know privately.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:53:16 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
The Rear O2 connector is the one by the fuel rail, the front connector is
on
the alternator bracket.
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:56:46 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
Oh yeah and BTW....
If your doing new sensors and have them mixed up (like I did) the
sensor
that has the LONG wire is the one for the back, the short wire is
front.
- -Jeff C
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 21:59:35 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need expert help following a JDM install
Hi guys,
I will try to be short, but let me preface this that 3 people have
spent
well over 30 man hours on this already so there is lots of info here.
Please
read the whole post before you reply. I need more ideas and your
help
badly...
Scenario:
Car: '92 VR4
Ordered JDM block from Cali. Block arrived in
not-so-great condition and
didn't look too hot ether. Lower timing belt cover
seems to have trapped
some water during it's storage lifetime, turning
everything down there
pretty rusty, however everything worked when it got
in.
Before doing anything, verified engine belt timing was set
correctly.
Performed a cold compression and leakdown which showed
inconclusive
results - possible problem with #1 cylinder (never used a
leakdown tester
before).
Verified sparks looked good on the
JDM.
Replaced oil pan, ALL timing belt components (all pulleys, belt,
tenssioner,
bolts, water pump.) Only original timing parts are cam gears and
crank gear.
Moved over my own Alternator, Starter and AC. Note: JDM power
steering pump,
pulley, idler and harmonic balancer for that belt use a
V-belt, not a ribbed
belt like my Cali-spec VR4.
Moved my O2 housings and
O2 sensors to JDM motor (JDM had no O2 bungs in
those housings).
Moved
over my throttle body but used JDM AIC since mine was fried.
Moved over my
Injectors, fuel rails and FPR.
Moved over my NGK spark plugs.
Then installed the engine in the car. Pretty sure everything is hooked
up
correctly - this is my 3rd engine swap im getting sick of em.
Car when first started ran rough.
Performed an oil flush and changed oil
3 times before driving.
Upon driving experienced hesitation, misfires etc
when throttle was taken
past about half way down. Car smoking pretty badly
smelling of rich gas.
Replaced sparks, JDM coil seemed a bit weak, so replaced that too. After
a
bit of tuning, new spark plugs and playing around got the problem
resolved
to make the car drivable, conditions as follows.
Idle speed is not perfectly stable. There is not a noticeable change on
the
needle, but I can hear it slightly surging up and down. Idle correctly
set
at 750RPM.
Car shows a bit more smoke at idle than I would like. Smoke
is gray-ish and
smells of a rich mixture.
Car accelerates perfectly fine
at 50-60% throttle, feel no hesitation or any
issues.
When pushed past 60%
throttle, car stalls, bucks and sometimes backfires
loudly. Backfire does not
seem to go to exhaust side, but rather into the
intake. I can see the
aftermarket boost gauge spike when this happens. I can
also hear the noise
from the front not from the rear. The problem occurs
ONLY up to about
3500-4000 RPM. Past that, I can drop the hammer all I want,
the car climbs to
8-9 PSI and pulls strong. When problem happens, I can see
significant smoke
from exhaust which goes away after a bit.
Troubleshooting:
Verified Fuel pressure (blue) and Boost controller vac
hoses are connected
correctly.
Verified fuel pressure solenoid is
working.
Tried to bypass the fuel pressure solenoid by connecting FPR
straight to
manifold. Car showed slightly worse performance.
EGR (Yellow)
and charcoal canister (red) lines are all disconnected and
capped off. The
car no longer has EGR and hasn't had it in a long time.
Verified Fuel
pressure. Gauge shows 30PSI at idle. Book says stock should be
34 at idle,
possibly gauge misreading...
Replaced FPR with the one from the JDM just to
make myself feel better, got
same numbers.
With the vac line to the FPR
disconnected, fuel pressure goes right up to
40PSI at idle.
With vac line
in place, I can see Fuel pressure move as I rev.
Pocket logger readings look
normal to us, however we do not have a baseline
to compare to. Inj timing,
spark timing and air flow seem to be doing what
they should.
Verified both
O2 sensors are working (hooked up to Autometer gauge, they
seem to be working
correctly).
Verified no coolant or engine oil loss. Smoke must be excess
fuel.
Removed plugs and found white powder on them indicating a lean
condition.
Really stumped by this one having as the smoke coming out of the
exhaust
indicates the opposite.
Just to verify, disconnected and capped
FPR vac hose (to set Fuel pressure
at a static 40) and the problem got way
worse.
Replaced plugs and verified that wires are in good
condition.
Performed a compression test on all cylinders showing a sharp
145PSI all
across, compression wise, this seems to be a great motor.
Hear
absolutely no interference in the engine.
Knock sensor is not picking up
anything...
Checked spark timing per manual instructions, it is sitting
perfectly at 5
BTDC
Fuel filter was replaced 2 years ago, but car has
basically sat for a year
now so maybe worth checking?
Filled up the almost
empty gas tank with a full tank of 76 gas.
Noticing (maybe dreaming) that
problem is getting slightly better over time?
Thing that bugs me most is that I do not know if I am rich or lean.
Sparks
say lean, Smoke says rich. WTF?!
Will make some more data log with pocketlogger tomorrow and post
numbers.
Some baselines to work with would be SUPER HELPFUL.
I seem to have failed at writing a short email, but guys I need help
big
time. 30+ hours into troubleshooting we are stumped. MAS? ECU? I don't
have
spares, how do I check them?
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:19:52 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
Hey, Damon, thanks, but *nobody* goes 80mph through Donner Pass. When
it
snows even a little, the speed limit is 30 up there, and chains or
4WD/AWD
with snow tires are required. ;-) From everything I've
read, the LM-22 is
possibly the best all-season snow tire, but that's *not*
what I need. I need
the best tire for the harshest conditions of ice
and snow, and for that, the
WS-50 is my choice, even though it is older
technology. The LM-22 gives
better over-all handling, but it cannot
deal with ice and snow like the WS-50.
Even TireRack (and Bridgestone) state,
"...if handling is your goal The Tire
Rack offers Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22
snow tires that will provide more
handling (but can not match the ice &
snow traction of standard Blizzak
tires)." These are *mountains* that I
have to get through... It's considered
an "Alpine Ski Trail" up there -
as in..., the equal of many areas in the
Alps! ;-) Donner goes up
to something like a 2-mile peak in a 6-mile
horizontal run, which they turned
into 40 miles of snaking (and still VERY
steep) roads to get up and over
Donner Pass, then down the other side. After
spending 1/2 a day on the
net doing research and reading reviews, I'm
convinced that the WS-50's are
the right choice for maximum ice & snow
traction...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 01:16:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Snowtires - Blizzak LM-22 or WS-50?
And im convinced that you should use chains.
Failing that..the vehicle shouldnt be there at all when the weather in
the
passes gets bad.
Just my two cents...I wont even take the jeep on the mud & snows up
there
W/O rear chains.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:45:37 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear O2 sensor harness/connector??????
Options:
1) Service Manual!!!!!
3) <Ctrl>F keys pop up the "Find text" dialog for a web page in
IE.
4) Use the Google search of my web site available on the Home and Garage
Pages at Stealth316.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:07:33 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need expert help following a JDM install
Here are some ideas.
1) Fuel pressure under load. The fact that your FPR is not set
correctly (should be 42.7 to 45.6 psi at idle with no vac tube attached) hints
that the FPR may not be increasing pressure correctly with boost. Also,
connecting the FPR directly to plenum, bypassing the solenoid, should not make
any noticeable difference in function or operation. The design is for the
solenoid to be active (to increase fuel pressure) only during hot starts.
Also, replacing the fuel filter is easy and can't hurt.
2) Check the IAC/ISC servo step counts during cold start, warm idle,
cruising, and acceleration. More info on my web page below. It will help if you
can datalog.
3) Check the functioning of the MAS during different engine operating
conditions. Again a datalogger will help.
4) Datalog if possible. Clues may be presented in the IPW, timing, knock,
tach, fuel trims, and other readings.
5) Try to obtain DSO patterns during driving to check the ignition
system.
6) Is the FPR vac port in the plenum clear, obstructed? Also, remove the TB
and be sure the bypass passages are clear. Remove the bottom piece of the TB to
visually and mechanically check the passages.
7) Is timing advance OK at idle and under load?
I am sure more ideas will occur. Be systematic. Take notes. Refer to the
troubleshooting charts in '92-'96 service manual.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 08:33:56 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Valves hit Pistons
How bad is bad??? Just took the head off of a friends '95 DSM
because
the harmonic balancer came apart and shredded the timing belt,
obviously
causing valve interference.
This is obviously
not my area of expertise. What do you all think??? I
know there
is a lot of carbon buildup, and that will be taken care of
either way.
I mean, I suppose it's only $250 for new pistons, but is it
truly
necessary???
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 10:36:52 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Full gasket set
Brian was DEAD on!
I just talked to Dave at Norco
Mitsubishi, he's putting together a full
gasket set from individual part
numbers for me. $200 versus $300 for the
"kit".
Thanks Brian!!!
Norco's particulars, FYI:
(909)735-7100
and
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 13:10:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock chromies - repair or replace?
The wheels on my 97 VR4 are looking a little bent up. The guy at
the
dealership said it was a safety problem. I'm debating whether to have
the
stock chromies repaired (got a quote for $270/wheel for a full fix
and
rechrome) or getting new wheels. I don't know if I would want to go
chrome
the second time around, but part of me wants to keep the stock
chromies
(which is funny because I totally want to make my motorcycle
unique).
My questions: Can someone recommend a good shop where I can get
my
chromies fixed? Preferably somewhere in the Bay Area.
Is there a difference between fixing a bent wheel and having
it
re-chromed?
Anyone have any aftermarket shops they like for wheels? I'm in So Cal
this
week so I can check stuff out down here too. Please feel free to email
me
directly.
Thanks
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 10:29:37 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Drivetrain Oil Pics
I recently changed the oil in my VR-4's driveline and was a little
surprised by the condition/color of the fluids that came out. The transfer
case fluid especially surprised me. I was thinking that changing fluids
once per year, or maybe every 18 months, was adequate, but this makes me
wonder. You can see pictures and details here:
I doubt I'd be able to "feel" a difference between the old and new fluids
for the transfer case and rear differential unless the old fluid were severely
deteriorated. However, I did notice a marked improvement in shifter
engagement with the new fluid - more like the "cutting warm butter" when
engaging gears. All fluids are Redline, and I the new fluids were exactly
the same brand/viscosity as the old fluids.
Comments? If you've changed your driveline fluids under similar
conditions, is this what you saw?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 10:44:51 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
My friend just found this article on 3SI with a guy having very
similar
problem to mine. On there guys told him to disconnect his ECS because
a bad
ECS can "scramble" the ECU functions. He did this and his car worked
fine!
This makes absolutely no sense to me, how a strut system can interfere
with
the ECU, but one thing that is very interesting is that after the
second
engine swap my ECS went T.U. and no longer works- I must have leaned
on the
pump under the hood I get the blinking tour sport light and car is
stuck in
perma sport mode. I tried to check contacts and stuff, everything
looked
good and for the time being with bigger issues to play with, I left
it
alone.
Bottom line, has anyone heard of ECS causing ECU issues, and if so, where
do
you disconnect the system? At the front struts?
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:59:49 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock chromies - repair or replace?
Well, sounds a tad high to me... Wheels America charges $110 / wheel
to
repair/straighten a wheel, then chroming costs about $90-$110 / wheel
as
well... I wouldn't pay more than $225 per wheel...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 19:31:27 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
Interesting.
The ECU and ECS control unit are not directly connected, nor do they
interact, except for one major, essential component, the throttle position
sensor. The TPS is the only major link I can find between these two control
units.
The ECU supplies +5V power and ground to the TPS. The wire "leaving" the
TPS that carries the voltage from the variable resistor (that would be the
throttle position signal) is shared by both control units.
I am not sure a "bad" ECS CU or wire would "scramble" the ECU. But I can
easily see how a problem on this shared wire could change the TPS signal
(voltage) received by the ECU.
The TPS is not used to directly control ignition timing or fuel injection
(except for fail safe mode if the MAS fails). However, the ECU does set ignition
and fuel injection a certain way if it knows the engine is at idle or at WOT. If
the ECS CU was affecting the TPS signal in such a way that the ECU always
thought the TPS was at or near WOT, then idle and part-throttle engine operation
could suffer. More than likely the ECU would try to use open-loop mode and
therefore may not achieve good idle or part throttle engine speed control.
To disconnect the ECS CU, I would remove the right rear compartment trim
panel and disconnect the CU from the wiring harness.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:37:57 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
> I am not sure a "bad" ECS CU or wire would "scramble" the
>
ECU. But I can easily see how a problem on this shared wire
> could
change the TPS signal (voltage) received by the ECU.
I can add that if you screw up the TPS signal (DAMHIK), the car will behave
very strangely. It may buck at more than 50% throttle and it may be very
unresponsive to anything but cruising or very light acceleration. I think
in my case it was grounded (showing 0% throttle). If it showed WOT (about
+5V), then the symptoms would probably be somewhat different.
- --Erik
"Wire A connects to Wire B... or was it Wire C?"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 13:19:07 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Modified Oil Filters?
I have seen a couple threads on 3SI.org about Mitsu *merging* some
oil
filter models to accommodate many different cars. I guess the new
filter is
1/4 inch smaller. I'm just wondering what the "Pros" think
about the
change? It seems like the 3SI guys are saying that now the
Mobil-1 filter
is "The Filter" to use...
...any thoughts?
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:18:52 -0800
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
The TPS is something to look at then. I have always found it strange that
my
TPS signal (pocketlogger) was never at 0 when The car was idling. I am
going
to check the shop manual now, but if memory serves right, mine is
showing
16% at idle right now... I also noticed that TPS showed 100% with the
pedal
about 60-70% down. What % should I see on pocketlogger and when?
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:24:18 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Modified Oil Filters?
I've always used the Mobil 1 filters...
Never a problem, supposedly some of the best out there...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:30:02 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
The voltage (or percentage on the datalogger) does not need to be 0V
(0%) or 5V (100%) to be operating within spec. For idle conditions, there
is a Closed Throttle Position Switch integrated into the TPS housing that lets
the ECU know that the throttle plate is closed, even if the variable signal is
showing greater than 0V. Thus, in addition to looking at the TPS, check
the CTPS terminal as well.
I have no idea what the ECU would do if it were to see the CTPS saying the
throttle is closed and have the TPS saying that the throttle is at 75%.
Also, I think something isn't right if it's showing 100% when the pedal is only
60%.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:41:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Darrell <
djohnson@newsguy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Full gasket set
I also spoke with Dave and picked up the complete gasket set. Great
money
saving tip!
Thanks a lot Brian!!!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:44:57 -0700
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
92stealthtt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS Can cause low RPM hesitation?!
My pocket logger states that at idle the % of throttle that is open
is 14%
and that at full throttle(when the pedal is to the floor) only reads
98%. I
have played with the throttle cable and no different. Do I need to
check
these same things or is this something that is common?
Thanks
Greg Gonzales
92 RT TT
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