Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, October 15 2003 Volume
02 : Number 275
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 23:34:01 -0600
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
92stealthtt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
Greg Gonzales
92 RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 10:08:30 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
This is an old trick to avoid heat transfer from the intake manifold to the
plenum. It is not proven that it helps to lower the temperature inside the
plenum as it is not measured there and also not with the hood closed. Due
to the fact that we are already have high temp discharged temperature the
plenum temp doesn't add much if any to the air.
It will mess-up the intake plenum mounting point in the rear, althought the
point can be openend a little bit more with ease. Same to the mounting
point of the throttle body, not a big deal. The material is something same
like a PCB board that doesn't transfer heat. I'm not very positive in
regard to the sealing capability !!!
I personally would like to see a temp sensor in the plenum that measures
air temp with before and after measures and not measures on the surface.
Also sealing over longer time and with the material under pressure is not
prooven. ... your choice to use this.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:24:05 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
I can't address the S-AFC settings or the A/F dyno stuff. But I can say
this about the datalog.
1) Always log IPW. Otherwise we do not know how the injectors are
performing.
2) Always try to include some extended warm idle time when testing so that
the O2 sensors can be evaluated. With the limited idle time shown, your O2
sensors do not display the smoothest of curves (ideal).
3) Note that ignition timing is *increasing* around time 3:30. And this is
with *28* knock counts. The reason is knock is constant (even though very high)
and there is a "bleed" value in the ECU. Let the 1996-1999 owners beware -
timing can advance with high knock values!
4) Idle timing seems fine around 25º advance. The "5º" is only the basic
(mechanical) timing provided by the setting of the CAS. The ECU does not know
exactly what this value is and only assumes it is 5º. The datalogger shows what
the ECU knows, and that is the advance that the ECU adds to the basic timing.
25º is normal enough. 15º might be more normal. Check the actual value (total,
which includes the "5º") with a dial-back timing light and compare to reported
(logged).
5) Fuel trims look fine.
6) Knock looks like real knock and is likely due to a lean mixture. Richen
things up a bit to see if knock reduces at the same boost levels.
7) EGR temps are really 11º? What in the engine bay is 11º? Why bother
logging this? Log air temp instead if you still have the stock MAS.
8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much voltage
decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp output
alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and fuel injection
performance.
Not all of us are familiar with your engine. Please either provide a web
link to your mods or list relevant mods (such as ... stock MAS with S-AFC, 450
injectors, Supra pump, Brand X turbos with stock ICs, DR stage 3 heads,
etc.)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:42:20 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
There is a thread on 3SI.org with temperature measurements.
I don't
remember the difference.
One person said they could touch their plenum using
the spacer whereas they couldn't before.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:16:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Dangerous datalog results!
Yes, I'm still worried that I've already done some damage. (Or that
the dyno
guy did, since he's the one who set that outrageous -27 to -35 in
the
4600-7600rpm range). But I intend to try your suggestions.
I'll be starting
a bit more rich than you suggest, however-- I previously
ended up with
corrections (above 4k RPM) on the order of -18 to -20 when I
was at
(high-elevation) Reno Fernley track, where I got a perfect ZERO-knock
datalog,
w/ A/F 0.96, good IPW, etc... Thanks!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:17:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
OK, will do... I always logged IPW in the past
(
www.Team3S.com/Dyno/RenoFinal071903.tlg),
but this time I couldn't get the
datalog to start until I removed some
parameters. Could you send me a list of
exactly 'what parameters to
log', please?
> 2) Always try to include some extended warm idle time when testing so
that
the O2 sensors can be evaluated. With the limited idle time shown, your
O2
sensors do not display the smoothest of curves (ideal).
-
--------------------->
Another great suggestion. Thanks!
> 3) Note that ignition timing is *increasing* around time 3:30. And
this is
with *28* knock counts. The reason is knock is constant (even though
very
high) and there is a "bleed" value in the ECU. Let the 1996-1999
owners
beware - timing can advance with high knock values!
> 4) Idle
timing seems fine around 25º advance. The "5º" is only the basic
(mechanical)
timing provided by the setting of the CAS. The ECU does not know
exactly what
this value is and only assumes it is 5º. The datalogger shows
what the ECU
knows, and that is the advance that the ECU adds to the basic
timing. 25º is
normal enough. 15º might be more normal. Check the actual value
(total, which
includes the "5º") with a dial-back timing light and compare to
reported
(logged).
> 5) Fuel trims look fine.
-
---------------------->
Thanks for the reassurance. My local shop is
checking the timing this
morning.
> 6) Knock looks like real knock and is likely due to a lean
mixture. Richen
things up a bit to see if knock reduces at the same boost
levels.
- --------------------->
Yes, I'm going to do that right
away.
> 7) EGR temps are really 11º? What in the engine bay is 11º? Why
bother
logging this? Log air temp instead if you still have the stock
MAS.
- -------------------->
OK.
> 8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much
voltage
decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp
output
alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and fuel
injection
performance.
- -------------------->
I never have logged
V. before, but that's a great idea. We saw a noticeable
loss in power
just before my alternator blew out recently (replaced with OEM
stock new
one). When we installed it, I think he said I had 12.8 V.
If
that's too low, what is the recommended fix - big alternator or 'hot'
coils?
> Not all of us are familiar with your engine. Please either provide
a web
link to your mods or list relevant mods (such as ... stock MAS with
S-AFC, 450
injectors, Supra pump, Brand X turbos with stock ICs, DR stage 3
heads, etc.)
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
------------------->
THANK YOU for some *really* clear info!!!
I'm a
slave to my trying to adhere to the list rules by not posting one of
those
obnoxiously-long mods sigs. ;-) But... You asked for it!
-
---Forrest
www.Team3S.com/ForrestVR4.htm1991
VR-4 bought Mar03- 25k on rebuilt engine, ACL bearings:
13C turbos w/5-degree
clip (~GTP357), RC 550cc injectors, K&N FIPK,
Supra pump wired full,
stock MAS, Apexi SAFC-II, Greddy Type-S BOV,
TurboXS Dual-Stage Boost
Controller, Greddy 60mm peak-hold boost ga.,
Split Second ARM-1 A/F meter,
ATR 3" DP, RD Performance 3" HF cat,
Borla 3" cat-back exhaust, stock ICs,
stock heads...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:33:39 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
plenum spacer on ebay
As I mentioned on the previous thread just cooling the intake doesn't
necessarily
translate into cooler intake air temps. The issue is ---- air is
moving through the
intake at a rather high rate so it doesn't pick up much
heat as it passes through
the intake plenum. I don't have any real numbers to
use but the 3SI.org site said
a 40+ degree drop in plenum temps --- as a
SWAG you might get a 5 degree
drop in intake air temp as a result but
certainly not 40+.
Mounting and such don't seem to be an issue --- several people have tried
it and
it seems problem free.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:41:19 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Higher output alternators (was: Dangerous datalog results!)
Do any options exist for higher output alternators for our cars?
> 8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much
voltage
decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp
output
alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and
fuel
injection performance.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:51:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
Hey, Russ
I've posted the answers in other replies, but... I have a hardwired
Supra
pump, RC 550cc injectors, stock MAS and heads, SAFC-II, Greddy-S BOV,
TurboSX
Dual-Stage BC. We tuned on an AWD dynojet
www.ATPTurbo.com.
I have no idea what 11:1 or 11.7:1 represents, nor how to calculate
it,
measure it, see it, etc. I've never seen the term before.
Could you clarify
the ratio of *what* to *what*, please?
Thanks!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:20:58 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
>> I have no idea what 11:1 or 11.7:1 represents, nor how to
calculate it,
>> measure it, see it, etc. I've never seen the
term before. Could you
>> clarify the ratio of *what* to *what*,
please?
11:1 etc. refer to the air to fuel ratio, commonly abreviated A/F or just
AF. It means the number of parts *by weight* of air to the number of parts of
fuel in the air-fuel mixture that is combusted in the cylinders.
Look at the pic below to get a feel for what A/F ratios are good for power
as opposed to what are good for emissions or best fuel economy.
The A/F range of 11.5:1 to 13.2:1 is commonly considered the best for
torque. Empirically, the value of ~12.5:1 has often been found to be the best
for max power (knock considerations ignored).
A value of 14.7:1 (called a stoichiometric mixture) should result in the
most complete combustion of the air and fuel, but not the best power or best
economy. In fact, 14.7 is chosen really because that is the A/F that 3-way
catalytic converters work best at.
You can't really calculate the A/F from the datalog info. It must be
measured. The factory O2 sensors do a great job of measuring the A/F when it is
in the range of ~14.6 to ~14.8. A wideband O2 sensor is required for accurate,
repeatable measurements outside of the above range. The factory O2 sensors
provide usable info outside the range of 14.6-14.8, but the voltages are
relative and not precisely comparable to particular A/F values. They are usually
repeatable, though, when the O2 sensor is at the same temperature.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:03:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Higher output alternators
A quick review:
The electrical circuits fed by the battery/alternator can be considered as
a bunch of parallel circuits. Therefore the voltage *should* be the same across
each of these individual circuits. The amperage produced by the
battery/alternator is then divided between each circuit based on the resistance
of each branch. More correctly, the amperage (current) required by each circuit
is summed to determine the amperage output required of the battery/alternator.
If the battery/alternator cannot provide the current required then overall
voltage of the system will drop. This is most frequently observed during engine
cranking, but it can occur during heavy current draw, such as during WOT
operation.
The battery and alternator work as a team. The alternator senses the
battery (or system) voltage and maintains the voltage within the range of ~12.5
to ~14.5 volts. The battery acts as a "line conditioner" for the alternator
output, averaging out the generated current and voltage.
Consider the analogy of a big stream (the alternator) pouring into a lake
(the battery), and a bunch of little streams (the individual electrical
circuits) draining the lake.
The battery provides the emf (electromotive force) that resists the current
flow from the alternator. When the battery is fully charged and can supply all
the little streams, to use the above analogy, with plenty of flow (current or
amps) the emf is strong in the battery and the alternator does not produce a lot
of its own current (amps). However, when the battery is getting drained by all
the little streams, the battery emf is low and the alternator can and does
produce more current (amps). However, when the load is very high, even the
alternator and battery together cannot produce enough current, and the voltage
(the level of the lake) begins to drop.
There are two solutions to the "draining lake" syndrome: (1) a battery with
more current producing capability, or (2) an alternator with more current
producing capability. Option (2) is usually the most practical.
Batteries themselves are capable of producing high-amp output over a very
short period. For example, the Odyssey PC 925 in my car can produce a *short
circuit* amperage of 2400 (that would be 12 volts divided an internal resistance
of 0.005 ohms). However, few if any batteries sized to fit in our cars can
produce the amps needed over extended periods.
What we usually do is buy an alternator that can produce more amps when
required of it. The factory TT alternator is rated to produce up to 110 A
(IIRC). There are some stores online (though I can't think of any at the moment;
use google.com ) that will provide replacement or higher-output alternators for
our engines. What I plan to do this winter is seek out a local alternator
specialty shop and have them rebuild my factory alternator to produce about 150
amps. Then I'll datalog and see if the drop to ~13 volts still occurs during WOT
operation.
There is no danger to the battery or electrics by using an alternator that
can produce higher than factory amps. Thanks to the battery, the alternator only
produces the amps that is demanded of it. A danger may occur if the voltage
regulator fails or the battery is removed while the engine operates. I am not
sure how much more dangerous 150 amps or 200 amps would be over 110 amps to the
electrics.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:49:16 -0400
From: "Shannon Rowe" <
shannonroweis@rogers.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV & Boost Controller Recommendations
I have recently installed a K&N filter and (thanks to Team3s) I
discovered
that the stock BOV should now be replaced.
I have perused the archives for information, but basically what I need
is
some quick recommendations on which BOV and Boost Controller is the
best
value.
I use my 92 TT basically for daily transportation. I would just like
to get
a little more out of it so I limit my possibilities of getting
embarrassed
at a stop light.
As with most products I know there are sacrifices with each
product...cost,
ease of use etc. What I'm looking for is something that
is fairly easy to
install and use and is on the cost-effective side.
I would appreciate if anyone can point me in a good direction as to
product,
price and their experience.
Thanks in advance,
Shannon
92 TT
K&N FIPK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:14:11 -0500
From: "purdaddy" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV & Boost Controller Recommendations
Shannon,
As far as a BOV, I would recommend a used stock 1g DSM BOV. They
hold
great amounts of boost and are the cheapest "aftermarket" you'll
find
that doesn't leak up to 22psi (if "crushed" appropriately). You'll
also
need an adapter (look on eBay). Look for them on DSMTrader.com,
eBay,
or even here in the classifieds sometimes. They are proven
performers,
but not as stinkin loud as some of the other high dollar
aftermarket
ones.
For a BC, I've used both the Blitz DSBC (old style) and an MBC. The
MBC
was $18 and nets the end result that an electronic boost controller
will
(more boost) and is super simple to install and easy to set. The
DSBC
was a great unit however with all of the electronic options for
boost
and how to handle it. Your choice, but for my daily driving, I
didn't
need to fine tune the boost. The boost gauge on my DATT has a
peak hold
so I know the MBC is not overboosting.
(got it set to 14~ max,
with some peaks to ~15). It's held to a max of
1.05 bar (15.2psi) since
I installed it.
My $0.02
-Patrick
- -"The definition of insanity is doing the same thing and
expecting
different results."
Patrick Purviance
'94 Dodge
Stealth R/T TT, Dark Green/Blk Leather
Open Air Filter, 1g DSM BOV, ProBoost
MCB, Blitz DATT, Indiglo Gauges
(even the center ones)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:38:32 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
I have never experienced a limitation to the number of parameters that the
TMO can log. I have on occasion selected just about every one available. Anyway,
if you are *testing* I would recommend at least the following.
Air flow
Air temp (only with factory MAS)
Battery
Coolant
temp
Engine speed
Fuel trim high
Fuel trim low
Fuel trim
middle
ISC steps
Injector pulse width
Knock sum
Oxygen sensor (both
with non-TMO loggers)
Throttle position
Timing advance
You might also check barometer but not necessarily log it. I don't think it
changes with air flow (meaning I think the sensor is on the "outside" of the
MAS).
If you are logging during a race, you could keep the following depending on
your purpose.
Air flow
Battery (optional)
Coolant temp (optional)
Engine
speed
Injector pulse width
Knock sum
Oxygen sensor (both with non-TMO
loggers)
Throttle position
Timing advance
>> 13C turbos w/5-degree clip (~GTP357)
I am not sure who has mislead you on this, but the MHI 13C compressor wheel
is almost exactly the same size and has almost exactly the same flow as the MHI
13G compressor wheel (the one that come standard on Euro-VR4s). The GT357 uses a
Garrett T3 50 Trim wheel that is comparable in size to a MHI 14B but has the
flow capabilities of a MHI 15G turbo (from Garrett's own flow maps). If you want
to compare your 13C custom turbo to a GT PRO product then you should compare it
to the GT347 (or Dynamic Racing's DR500), both of which also use the 13C wheel.
The 13C wheel is used in the common (for Chrysler 2.2 L and 2.5 L turbocharged
engines) MHI TE04H turbo.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:39:21 -0400
From: "Vedran" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Power steering pump????
Is the power steering pump identical on all
models,
91-99?
Thanks
Vet
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:55:11 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Power steering pump????
Not according to CAPS. There are several different part numbers
depending on year and model.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:49:34 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <
L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
Sorry Bob, I do this from time to time and forget to give the details
(I
would prolly forget my head if it wasnt attached to me).
That 11:1 - 11.5:1 is your air fuel ratio and under boost you want
to
aim for that range, now that I know what your set up is you
are
definately way to lean. Based on you previous post I would
AGAIN
recommend setting everything from 4000 RPMS at -24 and see what
you
end up with for knock and 02 sensor voltage. While on this
thought
how many miles on your facotry 02 sensors???
Damn Bob if this keeps up I may have to fly the hell out on my
companies
dime and do an "Agency Visit" to help you out. So what if
I leave
on a friday and fly back on a sunday ;)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:08:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
Jet Blue flies here for a buck twenty-nine... ;-)
The O2 sensors were replaced with the engine rebuild, <25k ago. I
planned on
starting at that -24 SAFC setting for those values, so I'm glad to
see that
that is your suggestion. I usually get .94 - .96 V, when
logging in the
past... Since there is no way of *knowing* my A/F ratio,
it's not something I
can "shoot for", is it(?). ;-)
The shop checked it for me, and the timing IS set at 5 degrees BTDC, so
at
least my problem isn't from a slipped belt or anything... I'l try
another
datalog run, with the new settings and parameters recommended by you
guys,
sometime in the morning.
Thanks!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:06:40 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Datalog parameters...
OK, those are the ones I'll use..., thanks! I'm using a Tecra 8100
(256MB
Ram), so you'd think that it could handle unlimited parameters - but
it
doesn't. The reason I didn't use IPW the other day is that I was
already on
the road - time was wasting... When I hit " play", nothing
happened with the
parameters I'd selected. I just had ET (who was
helping me) dump one from the
list, hit play, and it worked. I was
going for a quick run with plans for a
second run right afterwards, just to
get a ballpark figure about knock. When
I saw the results, I canned the
second run until I got feedback from you
folks! I'll give it another
datalog run when I get it back from the shop in
the morning. The shop
checked it for me, and the timing IS set at 5 degrees
BTDC, so at least my
problem isn't from a slipped belt or anything...
Thanks again!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:46:45 -0700
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
60k question
I have gone over the 60k procedures and seen one performed firsthand.
I'm wondering if there is any alternative to jacking up the engine via
the transfer case. Now that I have a new xfer case (courtesy of
chrysler) I'm paranoid about the idea of jacking up the engine supported
by the xfer case as part of the 60k service. Is there an alternate
jacking location that would work, and has anyone seen any instances of
xfer case or transmission housing cracked or damaged by the 60k
procedures?
Thanks,
dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:57:53 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
60k question
I did it by the oilpan... but the thing is that if that gets dented
or
broken, you still have to pull the xfer case, afaik.
But I did mine that way w/o any problems. You're not really
applying
that much pressure to it - you're just trying to relieve the
pressure on
one of 4 mounts.
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 22:00:21 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k question
Just put a 2x6 between the jack and the oil pan, and jack it up
that
way... Works beautiful... Again, you will not be entirely
supporting
the motor with the jack, just enough to get the weight off the
driver
side motor mount...
That's how I've done it on both my 3000 and my Talon...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 06:32:26 +0300
From: "Perrot, Pascal X" <
pascal.perrot@aramco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth R/T 1992 Performance question
Good day all,
I am brand new within our community with a Dodge Stealth R/T. I
am
discovering this great car.
Even though I love this car, I have issues with the performance which
I
find very limited (I understand it is not a TT). Torque looks good
in
the low RPM, but when I give more revs, I feel that the car is
not
giving what it should. Above 4,500rpms, there is no power.
Maximum
torque is supposed to be there and max power @6,000...
I must also add that I am waiting for new ignition coils and spark
plug
wires since the one I have are originals. I feel sometime in the
very
low rpm some hesitation (like small backfire) in the engine
(bad
ignition I guess).
My car is from stock, except the muffler (flowmaster: Great sound!)
and
the air filter (K&N).
Would anyone have an idea to help me understand what should I expect
as
performance and how to improve them?
Thanks,
Pascal
Dodge Stealth R/T 1992
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:10:45 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: So
my JDM got here today...
Thanks to all that helped with suggestions on where to get a JDM TT.
Through
a roundabout way, a lead I got on this board developed into a lead
which
developed into another lead that got me my motor. I can say that I
have
contacted over 80 importers, the TT motors are in massive short supply
right
now...
Anyhow,
3 things.
#1 I am having trouble in getting a hold of a leak down tester. I would
love
to test thing before putting it in the car... I thought Schucks would
rent
one, but they don't have them. Asked everyone I know, nobody knows where
to
get one for borrow/rent. I don't want to buy the thing, this will be
the
only time I would ever use it...
#2 Anyone know if its normal for a JDM to have no O2's? It shocked me when
I
went to see if I got O2 housings and seeing that I did, with the
exemption
that they have no sensors. No bungs for sensors ether! The heat
shields are
just like ours, have the cutout space for where the O2 sensors
go, but there
is nowhere for the sensor to go to! Now I know that Middle East
spec cars
don't have O2 because they use Leaded gas there, but everything I
know about
Japan is that they got the toughest environmental laws there are
and to find
no O2 sensors on the car is shocking... Anyone got input on that
one?
#3 Again, before I drop this thing in, I want to make sure its the
right
block. Obviously the turbos on it give away the fact that its a turbo
motor
:) Given the adjustable CAS I can tell that's its a 91-92. How do I
tell if
its FWD or AWD bolt pattern? Without trying to bolt it to my
tranny
obviously... I know they have FWD TTs and Automatic TTs in Japan.
Nether of
those engine configurations will fit our tranny. Before doing heavy
work I
would love to know that all the parts will fit together :)
Advice welcome.
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 23:57:20 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: So my JDM got here today...
<<<SNIP>>> I can say that I have
contacted over 80
importers, the TT motors are in massive short supply right
now...
<<<SNIP>>>
Funny...my machine shop here in STL dug one up in less than a week for
my
current rebuild 2.0
- -Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:08:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
The only limitation is the granularity of the results as you
increase
datapoints.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#275
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