Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Wednesday, October 15 2003  Volume 02 : Number 275
 
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 23:34:01 -0600
From: "Greg Gonzales" <92stealthtt@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
 
Has anyone seen this plenum spacer on ebay? Your thoughts?
Im not sure how it would fit being that it goes under the plenum..seems it
might mess up the egr pipping among other things...
but if it works and the benefit outweighs the risk...then maybe a new mod
for me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2437117401&cat
egory=46098
 
Greg Gonzales
92 RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 10:08:30 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
 
This is an old trick to avoid heat transfer from the intake manifold to the
plenum. It is not proven that it helps to lower the temperature inside the
plenum as it is not measured there and also not with the hood closed. Due
to the fact that we are already have high temp discharged temperature the
plenum temp doesn't add much if any to the air.
 
It will mess-up the intake plenum mounting point in the rear, althought the
point can be openend a little bit more with ease. Same to the mounting
point of the throttle body, not a big deal. The material is something same
like a PCB board that doesn't transfer heat. I'm not very positive in
regard to the sealing capability !!!
 
I personally would like to see a temp sensor in the plenum that measures
air temp with before and after measures and not measures on the surface.
Also sealing over longer time and with the material under pressure is not
prooven. ... your choice to use this.
 
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:24:05 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
I can't address the S-AFC settings or the A/F dyno stuff. But I can say this about the datalog.
 
1) Always log IPW. Otherwise we do not know how the injectors are performing.
 
2) Always try to include some extended warm idle time when testing so that the O2 sensors can be evaluated. With the limited idle time shown, your O2 sensors do not display the smoothest of curves (ideal).
 
3) Note that ignition timing is *increasing* around time 3:30. And this is with *28* knock counts. The reason is knock is constant (even though very high) and there is a "bleed" value in the ECU. Let the 1996-1999 owners beware - timing can advance with high knock values!
 
4) Idle timing seems fine around 25º advance. The "5º" is only the basic (mechanical) timing provided by the setting of the CAS. The ECU does not know exactly what this value is and only assumes it is 5º. The datalogger shows what the ECU knows, and that is the advance that the ECU adds to the basic timing. 25º is normal enough. 15º might be more normal. Check the actual value (total, which includes the "5º") with a dial-back timing light and compare to reported (logged).
 
5) Fuel trims look fine.
 
6) Knock looks like real knock and is likely due to a lean mixture. Richen things up a bit to see if knock reduces at the same boost levels.
 
7) EGR temps are really 11º? What in the engine bay is 11º? Why bother logging this? Log air temp instead if you still have the stock MAS.
 
8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much voltage decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp output alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and fuel injection performance.
 
Not all of us are familiar with your engine. Please either provide a web link to your mods or list relevant mods (such as ... stock MAS with S-AFC, 450 injectors, Supra pump, Brand X turbos with stock ICs, DR stage 3 heads, etc.)
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:42:20 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: Jim Floyd <jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
 
There is a thread on 3SI.org with temperature measurements.
I don't remember the difference.
One person said they could touch their plenum using the spacer whereas they couldn't before.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:16:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Dangerous datalog results!
 
Yes, I'm still worried that I've already done some damage.  (Or that the dyno
guy did, since he's the one who set that outrageous -27 to -35 in the
4600-7600rpm range).  But I intend to try your suggestions.  I'll be starting
a bit more rich than you suggest, however-- I previously ended up with
corrections (above 4k RPM) on the order of -18 to -20 when I was at
(high-elevation) Reno Fernley track, where I got a perfect ZERO-knock datalog,
w/ A/F 0.96, good IPW, etc...  Thanks!
 
- ---Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:17:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
OK, will do...  I always logged IPW in the past
(www.Team3S.com/Dyno/RenoFinal071903.tlg), but this time I couldn't get the
datalog to start until I removed some parameters.  Could you send me a list of
exactly 'what parameters to log', please?
 
> 2) Always try to include some extended warm idle time when testing so that
the O2 sensors can be evaluated. With the limited idle time shown, your O2
sensors do not display the smoothest of curves (ideal).
- --------------------->
Another great suggestion.  Thanks!
 

> 3) Note that ignition timing is *increasing* around time 3:30. And this is
with *28* knock counts. The reason is knock is constant (even though very
high) and there is a "bleed" value in the ECU. Let the 1996-1999 owners
beware - timing can advance with high knock values!
> 4) Idle timing seems fine around 25º advance. The "5º" is only the basic
(mechanical) timing provided by the setting of the CAS. The ECU does not know
exactly what this value is and only assumes it is 5º. The datalogger shows
what the ECU knows, and that is the advance that the ECU adds to the basic
timing. 25º is normal enough. 15º might be more normal. Check the actual value
(total, which includes the "5º") with a dial-back timing light and compare to
reported (logged).
> 5) Fuel trims look fine.
- ---------------------->
Thanks for the reassurance.  My local shop is checking the timing this
morning.
 

> 6) Knock looks like real knock and is likely due to a lean mixture. Richen
things up a bit to see if knock reduces at the same boost levels.
- --------------------->
Yes, I'm going to do that right away.
 

> 7) EGR temps are really 11º? What in the engine bay is 11º? Why bother
logging this? Log air temp instead if you still have the stock MAS.
- -------------------->
OK.
 

> 8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much voltage
decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp output
alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and fuel injection
performance.
- -------------------->
I never have logged V. before, but that's a great idea.  We saw a noticeable
loss in power just before my alternator blew out recently (replaced with OEM
stock new one).  When we installed it, I think he said I had 12.8 V.  If
that's too low, what is the recommended fix - big alternator or 'hot' coils?
 

> Not all of us are familiar with your engine. Please either provide a web
link to your mods or list relevant mods (such as ... stock MAS with S-AFC, 450
injectors, Supra pump, Brand X turbos with stock ICs, DR stage 3 heads, etc.)
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
- ------------------->
THANK YOU for some *really* clear info!!!
I'm a slave to my trying to adhere to the list rules by not posting one of
those obnoxiously-long mods sigs.  ;-)  But...  You asked for it!
- ---Forrest
www.Team3S.com/ForrestVR4.htm
1991 VR-4 bought Mar03- 25k on rebuilt engine, ACL bearings:
13C turbos w/5-degree clip (~GTP357), RC 550cc injectors, K&N FIPK,
Supra pump wired full, stock MAS, Apexi SAFC-II, Greddy Type-S BOV,
TurboXS Dual-Stage Boost Controller, Greddy 60mm peak-hold boost ga.,
Split Second ARM-1 A/F meter, ATR 3" DP, RD Performance 3" HF cat,
Borla 3" cat-back exhaust, stock ICs, stock heads...
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:33:39 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plenum spacer on ebay
 
As I mentioned on the previous thread just cooling the intake doesn't necessarily
translate into cooler intake air temps. The issue is ---- air is moving through the
intake at a rather high rate so it doesn't pick up much heat as it passes through
the intake plenum. I don't have any real numbers to use but the 3SI.org site said
a 40+ degree drop in plenum temps --- as a SWAG you might get a 5 degree
drop in intake air temp as a result but certainly not 40+.
 
Mounting and such don't seem to be an issue --- several people have tried it and
it seems problem free.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:41:19 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Higher output alternators (was: Dangerous datalog results!)
 
Do any options exist for higher output alternators for our cars?
 
> 8) When testing include *battery voltage*. Observe how much voltage
decreases to during WOT. If 13 or less volts consider higher-amp output
alternator Low voltage at high RPM can also effect ignition and fuel
injection performance.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:51:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
Hey, Russ
 
I've posted the answers in other replies, but... I have a hardwired Supra
pump, RC 550cc injectors, stock MAS and heads, SAFC-II, Greddy-S BOV, TurboSX
Dual-Stage BC.  We tuned on an AWD dynojet www.ATPTurbo.com.
 
I have no idea what 11:1 or 11.7:1 represents, nor how to calculate it,
measure it, see it, etc.  I've never seen the term before.  Could you clarify
the ratio of *what* to *what*, please?
 
Thanks!
 
Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:20:58 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
>> I have no idea what 11:1 or 11.7:1 represents, nor how to calculate it,
>> measure it, see it, etc.  I've never seen the term before.  Could you
>> clarify the ratio of *what* to *what*, please?
 
11:1 etc. refer to the air to fuel ratio, commonly abreviated A/F or just AF. It means the number of parts *by weight* of air to the number of parts of fuel in the air-fuel mixture that is combusted in the cylinders.
 
Look at the pic below to get a feel for what A/F ratios are good for power as opposed to what are good for emissions or best fuel economy.
 
http://www.stealth316.com/images/fic-af-emissions.gif
 
The above figure is on my web page:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm
 
The A/F range of 11.5:1 to 13.2:1 is commonly considered the best for torque. Empirically, the value of ~12.5:1 has often been found to be the best for max power (knock considerations ignored).
 
A value of 14.7:1 (called a stoichiometric mixture) should result in the most complete combustion of the air and fuel, but not the best power or best economy. In fact, 14.7 is chosen really because that is the A/F that 3-way catalytic converters work best at.
 
You can't really calculate the A/F from the datalog info. It must be measured. The factory O2 sensors do a great job of measuring the A/F when it is in the range of ~14.6 to ~14.8. A wideband O2 sensor is required for accurate, repeatable measurements outside of the above range. The factory O2 sensors provide usable info outside the range of 14.6-14.8, but the voltages are relative and not precisely comparable to particular A/F values. They are usually repeatable, though, when the O2 sensor is at the same temperature.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:03:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Higher output alternators
 
A quick review:
 
The electrical circuits fed by the battery/alternator can be considered as a bunch of parallel circuits. Therefore the voltage *should* be the same across each of these individual circuits. The amperage produced by the battery/alternator is then divided between each circuit based on the resistance of each branch. More correctly, the amperage (current) required by each circuit is summed to determine the amperage output required of the battery/alternator. If the battery/alternator cannot provide the current required then overall voltage of the system will drop. This is most frequently observed during engine cranking, but it can occur during heavy current draw, such as during WOT operation.
 
The battery and alternator work as a team. The alternator senses the battery (or system) voltage and maintains the voltage within the range of ~12.5 to ~14.5 volts. The battery acts as a "line conditioner" for the alternator output, averaging out the generated current and voltage.
 
Consider the analogy of a big stream (the alternator) pouring into a lake (the battery), and a bunch of little streams (the individual electrical circuits) draining the lake.
 
The battery provides the emf (electromotive force) that resists the current flow from the alternator. When the battery is fully charged and can supply all the little streams, to use the above analogy, with plenty of flow (current or amps) the emf is strong in the battery and the alternator does not produce a lot of its own current (amps). However, when the battery is getting drained by all the little streams, the battery emf is low and the alternator can and does produce more current (amps). However, when the load is very high, even the alternator and battery together cannot produce enough current, and the voltage (the level of the lake) begins to drop.
 
There are two solutions to the "draining lake" syndrome: (1) a battery with more current producing capability, or (2) an alternator with more current producing capability. Option (2) is usually the most practical.
 
Batteries themselves are capable of producing high-amp output over a very short period. For example, the Odyssey PC 925 in my car can produce a *short circuit* amperage of 2400 (that would be 12 volts divided an internal resistance of 0.005 ohms). However, few if any batteries sized to fit in our cars can produce the amps needed over extended periods.
 
What we usually do is buy an alternator that can produce more amps when required of it. The factory TT alternator is rated to produce up to 110 A (IIRC). There are some stores online (though I can't think of any at the moment; use google.com ) that will provide replacement or higher-output alternators for our engines. What I plan to do this winter is seek out a local alternator specialty shop and have them rebuild my factory alternator to produce about 150 amps. Then I'll datalog and see if the drop to ~13 volts still occurs during WOT operation.
 
There is no danger to the battery or electrics by using an alternator that can produce higher than factory amps. Thanks to the battery, the alternator only produces the amps that is demanded of it. A danger may occur if the voltage regulator fails or the battery is removed while the engine operates. I am not sure how much more dangerous 150 amps or 200 amps would be over 110 amps to the electrics.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:49:16 -0400
From: "Shannon Rowe" <shannonroweis@rogers.com>
Subject: Team3S: BOV & Boost Controller Recommendations
 
I have recently installed a K&N filter and (thanks to Team3s) I discovered
that the stock BOV should now be replaced.
 
I have perused the archives for information, but basically what I need is
some quick recommendations on which BOV and Boost Controller is the best
value.
 
I use my 92 TT basically for daily transportation.  I would just like to get
a little more out of it so I limit my possibilities of getting embarrassed
at a stop light.
 
As with most products I know there are sacrifices with each product...cost,
ease of use etc.  What I'm looking for is something that is fairly easy to
install and use and is on the cost-effective side.
 
I would appreciate if anyone can point me in a good direction as to product,
price and their experience.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Shannon
92 TT
K&N FIPK
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:14:11 -0500
From: "purdaddy" <purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV & Boost Controller Recommendations
 
Shannon,
 
As far as a BOV, I would recommend a used stock 1g DSM BOV.  They hold
great amounts of boost and are the cheapest "aftermarket" you'll find
that doesn't leak up to 22psi (if "crushed" appropriately).  You'll also
need an adapter (look on eBay).  Look for them on DSMTrader.com, eBay,
or even here in the classifieds sometimes.  They are proven performers,
but not as stinkin loud as some of the other high dollar aftermarket
ones.
 
For a BC, I've used both the Blitz DSBC (old style) and an MBC.  The MBC
was $18 and nets the end result that an electronic boost controller will
(more boost) and is super simple to install and easy to set.  The DSBC
was a great unit however with all of the electronic options for boost
and how to handle it.  Your choice, but for my daily driving, I didn't
need to fine tune the boost.  The boost gauge on my DATT has a peak hold
so I know the MBC is not overboosting.
(got it set to 14~ max, with some peaks to ~15).  It's held to a max of
1.05 bar (15.2psi) since I installed it.
 
My $0.02
 
    -Patrick
 
- -"The definition of insanity is doing the same thing and expecting
different results."
 
Patrick Purviance
'94 Dodge Stealth R/T TT, Dark Green/Blk Leather
Open Air Filter, 1g DSM BOV, ProBoost MCB, Blitz DATT, Indiglo Gauges
(even the center ones)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:38:32 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
I have never experienced a limitation to the number of parameters that the TMO can log. I have on occasion selected just about every one available. Anyway, if you are *testing* I would recommend at least the following.
 
Air flow
Air temp (only with factory MAS)
Battery
Coolant temp
Engine speed
Fuel trim high
Fuel trim low
Fuel trim middle
ISC steps
Injector pulse width
Knock sum
Oxygen sensor (both with non-TMO loggers)
Throttle position
Timing advance
 
You might also check barometer but not necessarily log it. I don't think it changes with air flow (meaning I think the sensor is on the "outside" of the MAS).
 
If you are logging during a race, you could keep the following depending on your purpose.
 
Air flow
Battery (optional)
Coolant temp (optional)
Engine speed
Injector pulse width
Knock sum
Oxygen sensor (both with non-TMO loggers)
Throttle position
Timing advance
 
>> 13C turbos w/5-degree clip (~GTP357)
 
I am not sure who has mislead you on this, but the MHI 13C compressor wheel is almost exactly the same size and has almost exactly the same flow as the MHI 13G compressor wheel (the one that come standard on Euro-VR4s). The GT357 uses a Garrett T3 50 Trim wheel that is comparable in size to a MHI 14B but has the flow capabilities of a MHI 15G turbo (from Garrett's own flow maps). If you want to compare your 13C custom turbo to a GT PRO product then you should compare it to the GT347 (or Dynamic Racing's DR500), both of which also use the 13C wheel. The 13C wheel is used in the common (for Chrysler 2.2 L and 2.5 L turbocharged engines) MHI TE04H turbo.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:39:21 -0400
From: "Vedran" <1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: Power steering pump????
 
Is the power steering pump identical on all models,
91-99?
Thanks
 Vet
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:55:11 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Power steering pump????
 
Not according to CAPS.  There are several different part numbers depending on year and model.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:49:34 -0400
From: "The Furmans" <L.Furman1@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
Sorry Bob, I do this from time to time and forget to give the details
(I would prolly forget my head if it wasnt attached to me).
 
That 11:1 - 11.5:1 is your air fuel ratio and under boost you want to
aim for that range, now that I know what your set up is you are
definately way to lean.  Based on you previous post I would AGAIN
recommend setting everything from 4000 RPMS at -24 and see what you
end up with for knock and 02 sensor voltage.  While on this thought
how many miles on your facotry 02 sensors???
 
Damn Bob if this keeps up I may have to fly the hell out on my
companies dime and do an "Agency Visit"  to help you out.  So what if
I leave on a friday and fly back on a sunday ;)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:08:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 

Jet Blue flies here for a buck twenty-nine...  ;-)
 
The O2 sensors were replaced with the engine rebuild, <25k ago.  I planned on
starting at that -24 SAFC setting for those values, so I'm glad to see that
that is your suggestion.  I usually get .94 - .96 V, when logging in the
past...  Since there is no way of *knowing* my A/F ratio, it's not something I
can "shoot for", is it(?).  ;-)
 
The shop checked it for me, and the timing IS set at 5 degrees BTDC, so at
least my problem isn't from a slipped belt or anything...  I'l try another
datalog run, with the new settings and parameters recommended by you guys,
sometime in the morning.
 
Thanks!
 
Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:06:40 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Datalog parameters...
 
OK, those are the ones I'll use..., thanks!  I'm using a Tecra 8100 (256MB
Ram), so you'd think that it could handle unlimited parameters - but it
doesn't.  The reason I didn't use IPW the other day is that I was already on
the road - time was wasting...  When I hit " play", nothing happened with the
parameters I'd selected.  I just had ET (who was helping me) dump one from the
list, hit play, and it worked.  I was going for a quick run with plans for a
second run right afterwards, just to get a ballpark figure about knock.  When
I saw the results, I canned the second run until I got feedback from you
folks!  I'll give it another datalog run when I get it back from the shop in
the morning.  The shop checked it for me, and the timing IS set at 5 degrees
BTDC, so at least my problem isn't from a slipped belt or anything...
 
Thanks again!
 
Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:46:45 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k question
 
I have gone over the 60k procedures and seen one performed firsthand.
 I'm wondering if there is any alternative to jacking up the engine via
the transfer case.  Now that I have a new xfer case (courtesy of
chrysler) I'm paranoid about the idea of jacking up the engine supported
by the xfer case as part of the 60k service.  Is there an alternate
jacking location that would work, and has anyone seen any instances of
xfer case or transmission housing cracked or damaged by the 60k procedures?
 
Thanks,
 
dave
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:57:53 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k question
 
I did it by the oilpan... but the thing is that if that gets dented or
broken, you still have to pull the xfer case, afaik.
 
But I did mine that way w/o any problems. You're not really applying
that much pressure to it - you're just trying to relieve the pressure on
one of 4 mounts.
 
Alex.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 22:00:21 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k question
 
Just put a 2x6 between the jack and the oil pan, and jack it up that
way...  Works beautiful...  Again, you will not be entirely supporting
the motor with the jack, just enough to get the weight off the driver
side motor mount...
 
That's how I've done it on both my 3000 and my Talon...
 
- -Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 06:32:26 +0300
From: "Perrot, Pascal X" <pascal.perrot@aramco.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth R/T 1992 Performance question
 
Good day all,
 
I am brand new within our community with a Dodge Stealth R/T. I am
discovering this great car.
 
Even though I love this car, I have issues with the performance which I
find very limited (I understand it is not a TT). Torque looks good in
the low RPM, but when I give more revs, I feel that the car is not
giving what it should. Above 4,500rpms, there is no power. Maximum
torque is supposed to be there and max power @6,000...
 
I must also add that I am waiting for new ignition coils and spark plug
wires since the one I have are originals. I feel sometime in the very
low rpm some hesitation (like small backfire) in the engine (bad
ignition I guess).
 
My car is from stock, except the muffler (flowmaster: Great sound!) and
the air filter (K&N).
 
Would anyone have an idea to help me understand what should I expect as
performance and how to improve them?
 
Thanks,
 
Pascal
Dodge Stealth R/T 1992
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:10:45 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: So my JDM got here today...
 
Thanks to all that helped with suggestions on where to get a JDM TT. Through
a roundabout way, a lead I got on this board developed into a lead which
developed into another lead that got me my motor. I can say that I have
contacted over 80 importers, the TT motors are in massive short supply right
now...
 
Anyhow,
 
3 things.
 
#1 I am having trouble in getting a hold of a leak down tester. I would love
to test thing before putting it in the car... I thought Schucks would rent
one, but they don't have them. Asked everyone I know, nobody knows where to
get one for borrow/rent. I don't want to buy the thing, this will be the
only time I would ever use it...
 
#2 Anyone know if its normal for a JDM to have no O2's? It shocked me when I
went to see if I got O2 housings and seeing that I did, with the exemption
that they have no sensors. No bungs for sensors ether! The heat shields are
just like ours, have the cutout space for where the O2 sensors go, but there
is nowhere for the sensor to go to! Now I know that Middle East spec cars
don't have O2 because they use Leaded gas there, but everything I know about
Japan is that they got the toughest environmental laws there are and to find
no O2 sensors on the car is shocking... Anyone got input on that one?
 
#3 Again, before I drop this thing in, I want to make sure its the right
block. Obviously the turbos on it give away the fact that its a turbo motor
:) Given the adjustable CAS I can tell that's its a 91-92. How do I tell if
its FWD or AWD bolt pattern? Without trying to bolt it to my tranny
obviously... I know they have FWD TTs and Automatic TTs in Japan. Nether of
those engine configurations will fit our tranny. Before doing heavy work I
would love to know that all the parts will fit together :)
 
Advice welcome.
 
Thanks,
 
Tyson
 
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 23:57:20 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: So my JDM got here today...
 
<<<SNIP>>> I can say that I have
contacted over 80 importers, the TT motors are in massive short supply right
now...
 
<<<SNIP>>>
 
Funny...my machine shop here in STL dug one up in less than a week for my
current rebuild 2.0
 

- -Jeff
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:08:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous datalog results!
 
The only limitation is the granularity of the results as you increase
datapoints.
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #275
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