Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 6
2003 Volume 02 : Number 147
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:20:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Patrick James Ouellette
<
pouellet@mix.wvu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm System
This may seem like a strange request...How may I disable the anti-theft
alarm without affecting anything else? The reason is, I have a short I
am tracing down and the alarm goes off sporadically. I fear it will
drain my battery if I leave the car unattended too long until I have
this problem fixed. Thanks for any help you can offer.
PaT
'92
R/T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 07:57:50 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Troubleshooting my clutch malfunction
> I did some more troubleshooting and think that everything that can
be
> seen in the footwell is fine. I don't think it is a hydraulic problem
> either, because the fluid level hasn't changed. Pedal movement feels
> just about fine with the motor off, only a little bit lighter than
it
> did before. But with the motor running, things change.
The clutch system is primarily "passive", meaning there aren't any pumps or
anything like that. If the clutch pedal is pulsating, it is most likely a
problem with either the clutch itself, or the clutch booster assembly. One
thing to check is to make sure that the large hose from the driver's side of the
intake plenum is routed in the proper direction to the clutch booster vacuum
pipe. If you remove the hose, there is a check-valve in the hose to only
allow vacuum to the booster and storage tank. If you've got it backwards,
it'll pressurize the booster when on-boost and make it harder to actuate the
clutch. It'll also make squeaking sounds as pressure gets through the
diaphragm in the booster.
To check the routing of the hose, blow in one end with the hose off the
car. The end that will not allow you to blow through the hose will be connected
to the plenum.
If that isn't it, then you may need a new clutch booster, which is a royal
pain to replace - or possibly a new clutch.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 13:04:50 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alarm System
I think the antitheft is part of the ETACS. I am not sure you can disable
the system without disabling all of ETACS (see STIM for more info on ETACS). You
can, of course, disable the horn (over by cruise control box I think).
If you are leaving the car unattended and the alarm system is unreliable
anyway, why not just disconnect the negative cable from the battery? This will
also prevent other parasitic losses (clock, etc.) from draining the
battery.
Intermittent alarms could be due to a bad contact at one of the proximity
switches (doors, rear hatch) or mechanical switch (engine bay).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick James Ouellette" <
pouellet@mix.wvu.edu>
Sent: Monday,
May 05, 2003 6:20 AM
This may seem like a strange request...How may I disable the anti-theft
alarm without affecting anything else? The reason is, I have a short I
am tracing down and the alarm goes off sporadically. I fear it will
drain my battery if I leave the car unattended too long until I have
this problem fixed. Thanks for any help you can offer.
PaT
'92
R/T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 06:17:28 -0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Somewhat OT: changing automatic transmission fluid
Interestingly, the Popular Mechanics that I just got recommends exactly the
method described. Undo a cooling hose at the radiator. Idle the engine and pump
it out while putting in a quart or two of new stuff. Check it out. Go
to
popularmechanics.com
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04,
2003 7:14 PM
Somewhat OT because this may apply to the auto folks on here as
well...
I was working on my girlfriend's Mazda Protégé, trying to figure out how to
change her transaxle fluid and in the process of looking for info online, I
stumbled onto a site that said that to completely change the fluid, I should
unplug one of the return lines, start the engine and just add fluid at the same
rate as it comes out. Now, this isn't my car and even if it was, I don't like
the idea of frying a tranny... Does this procedure seem reasonable?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:20:44 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Somewhat OT: changing automatic transmission fluid
If you want to change ALL of the fluid, the procedure is correct. If
you drain just the pan, you never get to the fluid in the torque converter, and
that's where most of the fluid resides.
------------------------------
Eric,
I recently installed SS lines on my VR-4. I am not sure what you mean
by "locking anything up", you just remove the old ones and install new
ones. And bleed the brake system when you are done. Depending on how
rusted your flair fittings are (they are the metal sections of lines with the
10mm nuts on them that are mounted on the strut and dust
shields) get your
self a metric flair wrench from NAPA. The nuts only require about 11 ft-lb
of torque but can be a pain to get loose without stripping the nuts. Also
be sure to use two wrenches when you loosen and tighten the lines. You do
not want to twist the metal flair lines as this can cause them to crack or
break, and then you will be replacing them also.
Good luck and any questions let me know.
Dan Labonte
- -----Original Message-----
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE
[mailto:griz600cc@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 8:44 AM
I have a 93 Stealth ES (white) and I have two questions.
1) I recently purchased steel braded brake lines for the car. When I go
to change the brake lines, do I have to worry about locking anything
up?
I tried looking through posts but was unable to locate anything.
2) My battery will no longer hold a charge. Any recommendations on a
battery to replace the stock one with?
Thanks for the assistance.
Eimon
------------------------------
I don't think anybody has strong feelings about batteries, unless they are
relocating them to the trunk or stuff. I think Interstate Batteries makes a nice
one.
The real important thing is to get one that is in the correct case size for
the car, otherwise, you will have a hassle getting it secured in the stock
battery holder.
Be sure to have the old one checked - and check the cables (on each end of
both pos and neg). The cables tend to get corroded inside which leads to
high resistance and excessive current draw.
Chuck Willis
2) My battery will no longer hold a charge. Any recommendations on a
battery to replace the stock one with?
Thanks for the assistance.
Eimon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:43:31 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Lines
Eric - This is the area Dan is talking about - see the 10mm NAPA "brake
line" wrench and the 17mm wrench needed to hold the other side from turning? A
normal 10mm wrench can be used but you don't have as much room to loosen/tighten
(like how a ratchet with 5 degrees before it clicks allows you to work in more
confined spaces than a ratchet with 30 degrees before it clicks).
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Labonte, Dan
Sent: Monday, May 05,
2003 09:55
<snip> Depending on how rusted your flair fittings are (they are the
metal sections of lines with the 10mm nuts on them that are mounted on the strut
and dust shields) get your self a metric flair wrench from NAPA. Also be
sure to use two wrenches when you loosen and tighten the lines. You do not
want to twist the metal flair lines as this can cause them to crack or break,
and then you will be replacing them also.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:34:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Problem with car starting
I have a problem with my car starting, similar to a dead battery. However,
when I jiggle the connection to the battery it works just fine.
1) Is it possible that the connection is dirty? If so how can I clean it? I
don't notice any corrosion on the battery terminal or the connector.
2) What other possible problems could this be?
My car is 97 VR4 and I've replaced the stock battery with an Optima Red
top.
Thanks
------------------------------
replace the battery cables. they get corroded inside where it is difficult
to see.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Baldwin
[mailto:mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 10:35 AM
I have a problem with my car starting, similar to a dead battery. However,
when I jiggle the connection to the battery it works just fine.
1) Is it possible that the connection is dirty? If so how can I clean it? I
don't notice any corrosion on the battery terminal or the connector.
2) What other possible problems could this be?
My car is 97 VR4 and I've replaced the stock battery with an Optima Red
top.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:44:36 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Problem with car starting
Could be an internal short in the battery. Is the connection loose?
Did you "hammer" the connection on, or pry it off? That could cause a
short. Also, you shouldn't be able to "jiggle" the connection. You
can clean the battery post and connection with coarse grit sandpaper, or a wire
brush, or one of those commercial battery terminal cleaners.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:31:14 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stiff Clutch
Bob G. wrote:
> I've had my 92 VR-4 for about a month now and love
it. My left thigh
> has grown significantly in girth, however, as a
result of pushing in
> on a very stiff clutch. Recent posts to the
list are beginning to make
> me think that this may not be normal.
The clutch in both of the VR-4s I've owned has required a significant
effort to operate - you might want to find another VR-4 to try before you assume
the booster isn't working.
Two interesting things about the my VR-4 clutch:
1) like you, my left leg muscles, most notably the quadriceps (upper thigh)
are slightly (but significantly) more developed than the muscles in my right leg
- my doctor even commented about it last time I was in. I've thought about
how my activities could cause this (I'm reasonably athletic), and the only thing
I can come up with is operating the clutch in my VR-4.
2) a few months ago, I spent 4 days away from home and drove a Hyundai
Accent that whole time. It has about a 3lb clutch that I could probably
push down by blowing on it. When I returned home and pulled my VR-4 out of
the garage to go for a drive (I was suffering from withdrawal <g>), I
honestly thought my clutch was broken. It was SO stiff. I felt like
I had to brace my rear against the seat just to get enough leverage to push the
dang pedal. It took about 10 minutes of driving before things seemed
"normal" again.
------------------------------
Erik said:
"I felt like I had to brace my rear against the seat just to
get enough leverage to push the dang pedal."
When I first bought my VR-4 it didn't "feel like" but I "had" to brace my
rear to be able to push the dang pedal.
Dan
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 10:31 AM
Bob G. wrote:
> I've had my 92 VR-4 for about a month now and love
it. My left thigh
> has grown significantly in girth, however, as a
result of pushing in
> on a very stiff clutch. Recent posts to the
list are beginning to make
> me think that this may not be normal.
The clutch in both of the VR-4s I've owned has required a significant
effort to operate - you might want to find another VR-4 to try before you assume
the booster isn't working.
Two interesting things about the my VR-4 clutch:
1) like you, my left leg muscles, most notably the quadriceps
(upper
thigh)
are slightly (but significantly) more developed than the
muscles in my right leg - my doctor even commented about it last time I was
in. I've thought about how my activities could cause this (I'm reasonably
athletic), and the only thing I can come up with is operating the clutch in my
VR-4.
2) a few months ago, I spent 4 days away from home and drove a Hyundai
Accent that whole time. It has about a 3lb clutch that I could probably
push down by blowing on it. When I returned home and pulled my VR-4 out of
the garage to go for a drive (I was suffering from withdrawal <g>), I
honestly thought my clutch was broken. It was SO stiff. I felt like
I had to brace my rear against the seat just to get enough leverage to push the
dang pedal. It took about 10 minutes of driving before things seemed
"normal" again.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:20:39 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problem with car starting
I had a strange similar problem like this once. It ended up being my
kill-switch had smoked a lan on the little PCB plug. Solution was to remove the
kill-switch entirely. So if you have a kill-switch, have a look at it. It drove
me crazy, checked alternator, starter, and battery all were in good working
condition.
Philip K.
1994 3000GT N/A
> I have a problem with my car starting, similar to a dead
battery.
> However, when I jiggle the connection to the battery it works
just
> fine.
>
> 1) Is it possible that the connection is
dirty? If so how can I clean
> it? I don't notice any corrosion on the
battery terminal or the
> connector.
>
> 2) What other
possible problems could this be?
>
> My car is 97 VR4 and I've
replaced the stock battery with an Optima
> Red top.
>
>
Thanks
------------------------------
I don't have the same problem of a stiff clutch, but the return on the
clutch seems a little laggy? A friend of mine drove it and said that it could be
normal, or the throw out bearing could be a little worn.
Any ideas?
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 13:18:01 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stiff Clutch
I have a 91 Stealth TT, and the clutch is not stiff at all. Sometimes
it seems like there's nothing behind it. If you want to check to see if
your booster is working, depress the clutch, start the car, and let it out in
neutral. Shut the car off and then pump the clutch. It should get
noticeably stiffer by the second pump. If it doesn't, then your booster
has gone to lunch.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 12:31 PM
Bob G. wrote:
> I've had my 92 VR-4 for about a month now and love
it. My left thigh
> has grown significantly in girth, however, as a
result of pushing in
> on a very stiff clutch. Recent posts to the
list are beginning to make
> me think that this may not be normal.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:23:14 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stiff Clutch
I've tested my clutch pedal pressure with and without the booster active,
and it's *definitely* stiffer when the booster is disconnected. AFAIK,
it's the stock clutch - at least it slips like the stock one :-)
As for the stiff feeling, after 10 minutes of driving, I don't notice it at
all. It's only when I drive something else for a decent period of time
that I notice the contrast.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:56:15 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
RE: RE: FW: Team3S: 3kgt at New England Dragway last night & race gas
I don't know how that guy ran a 17... actually the guy running 17s might
have been an SL now that I think about it. I think the tricked out VR4 was
running like 15s or something though... and I still can't explain how he could
run so slow.
As for my times, my original post contained the information crucial to
solving the 16.0 problem... I had no 2nd gear and no 1st gear by the time I made
it to the pits. I found out later that I broke the 1/2 shift fork (and
apparently wore the rest pretty bad). The guy showed me the fork - there
was no forkage. Only a rod and a bunch of little pieces! I tried for
2nd 3 times, so that didn't help my E/T either ;)
She goes up Wed night, I'll let ya know how she runs. She's going
pump-gas Wed. Maybe Friday or next Wed I'll try the race juice.
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:19
PM
>
> I ran a 13.9 @ 10psi my 2nd time at the track (got kicked
off for no
> helmet) with an easy launch and granny shiftin @
5500ft. Please
> explain the bad 1/4s.
>
> Gabe
Simoes
>
> 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
>
> -
K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
> Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen
DP,
> 3SX Crank Pulley, RPS 6 Puck, Weight Redux
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:03:36 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: S-AFC Tuning Guide
Wrote up a basic tuning guide to tune your S-AFC, couldn't have done it
without cody, so he gets credit too.
http://speedtoys.com/~duck/AFCtuning.htmLemme
know what you think!
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
"Don't drink
and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:29:06 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan \(E-mail\)"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels/tires
Guys, I am going to be needing a set of new tires AGAIN having as my rear
have worn a hole through them AGAIN. I am thinking that while I am at it, I
should pick up some new rims. I always liked the way that 18's look.
Goal: I like THIN spokes, 5 spokes, 6 are ok, with as few surfaces as
possible. Being light is a definite plus, but I'm not crazy about it. Main thing
is to be cheap. I have looked on TireRack and I like the combo they have there.
I was wondering if anyone else knows of elsewhere I should look. Right now I am
looking at a set of Moda R6 wheels wrapped in Kumho Supra 712 tires (I had these
before, they wear fast, but grip better than anything I have ever had and are
CHEAP!) all for $1,597.53 shipped!
Anyhow, alternative suggestions welcome!
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
light + few&THIN spokes = unusually easy to damage..especially on 18"
wheels.
Consider your financial position first..can you afford a new wheel or three
a year? Do you WANT to afford it?
On Mon, 5 May 2003, Tyson Varosyan (E-mail) wrote:
> Guys, I am going to be needing a set of new tires AGAIN having as my
> rear have worn a hole through them AGAIN. I am thinking that while I
> am at it, I should pick up some new rims. I always liked the way that
> 18's look.
>
> Goal: I like THIN spokes, 5 spokes, 6 are
ok, with as few surfaces as
> possible. Being light is a definite plus,
but I'm not crazy about it.
> Main thing is to be cheap. I have looked on
TireRack and I like the
> combo they have there. I was wondering if
anyone else knows of
> elsewhere I should look. Right now I am looking at
a set of Moda R6
> wheels wrapped in Kumho Supra 712 tires (I had these
before, they wear
> fast, but grip better than anything I have ever had
and are CHEAP!)
> all for $1,597.53 shipped!
>
> Anyhow,
alternative suggestions welcome!
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Tyson
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:56:25 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wheels/tires
Discount tire has a decent collection --- however --- getting wide enough
rims seems to be an issue. I guess most of the rims are made for Hondas with 205
series tires.
I have the Enkei RP01's [ 17X9 ] that I race on and have had no problems
after about 2+ years. They are cast one piece rims that were about $190
each from Discount. They may not make the RP01's any more but they make a
similar rim.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:15:44 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels/tires
What type of car??? Turbo or non-turbo?
I would highly recommend going to Yokohama AVS ES100's over the Kumho's. In
comparison, the Kumho's are junk (Trust me, have had both)
Gimme something to work with here as far as your car and if you definitely
want 18's, or are open to options...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:50:47 -0700
From: "Admin-Team3S" <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject:
ADMIN correction: Re: Team3S: S-AFC Tuning Guide
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
Wrote up a basic tuning guide to tune your S-AFC, couldn't have done
> it
without Cody, so he gets credit too.
> http:// [speedtoys.com
= Team3S.com]/~duck/AFCtuning.htm
> Lemme know what you think!
>
Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
-
------------------------------->
Please use the Team3S address and NOT the speedtoys address on your
personal Team3S webpages. It goes into the archives this way, and we want
this to be a permanent archive. We currently have Geoff Mohler's speedtoys
hosting our website - they are our ISP. That may not always be the case,
and we do not want to have to go and change the URLs of hundreds of pages of
archives where our member files reside. Both addresses will work, since
Speedtoys.com piggybacks Team3S.com DNS and vice versa, but please use the
Team3S address when posting to the list. Reply privately if you have
questions about your Team3S webspace.
Nice job guys!
Best,
Bob Forrest
for the Admins
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 19:40:03 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dealership recommendations
I hate to clog the mailboxes of those who this won't concern, but my clutch
problem is just gonna have to be investigated by a shop. I appreciate the
suggestions that folks have given me, most have been pretty viable options,
but I don't have the time to start exploring.
I figure since I need to have the recall work done on the X-fer case this
is
the best time that this sort of malfunction could have popped up if it
ever
had to.
So, does anybody in the San Antonio TX area have recommendations as to
where
I should bring my baby for all this? Somebody who isn't gonna give me
some
line about my Johnson Rod being bent or Canuter Valve leaking, or
taking a
few joyrides.
Thanks!
Zach Sauerman
87th Red Bulls
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:00:52 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan \(E-mail\)"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels/tires
Yes, sorry. A 92 VR4.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:johns@kyso.com]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 4:36 PM
Is this for a TT ? John
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:04:48 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan \(E-mail\)"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels/tires
Yea, you are the 3rd to suggest them. I guess I will look into them. My
ONLY issue with the Kumhos was the road noise. Living in the Seattle are, it
rains a lot up here and the water channel on the Kumhos was AWESOME! I had some
Yokos (don't remember which) that came with the car when I first bought it. I
cant count how many times I spun them out! Matter of fact, nearly cost me my car
like the second week of ownership. I will look into them. If wet traction is
good, I will take the advice and get them.
Thanks,
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@spamcop.net]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 6:09 PM
Tyson - I suggest the Yokohama AVS ES100 tires instead of the Supra 712
this time.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Never blame the equipment for spinning out.
Its a mistake on most mailing lists to do so.
On Mon, 5 May 2003, Tyson Varosyan (E-mail) wrote:
> Yea, you are the 3rd to suggest them. I guess I will look into them.
> My ONLY issue with the Kumhos was the road noise. Living in the
> Seattle are, it rains a lot up here and the water channel on the
> Kumhos was AWESOME! I had some Yokos (don't remember which) that came
> with the car when I first bought it. I cant count how many times I
> spun them out! Matter of fact, nearly cost me my car like the second
> week of ownership. I will look into them. If wet traction is good, I
> will take the advice and get them.
>
> Far as wheels, one
of the local members in my club showed me the
> 5Zigen FN01R-C.
>
(
http://www.importhookup.com/wheeloptions/pictures/5zigen/fn01r-c_hb2.jpg)
>
PERFECT WHEEL as far as looks and design and cost goes!! HOWEVER, its
only
> offered in 17" and I really want an 18. They are so perfect though,
that I
> am thinking about it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tyson
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:24:47 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels/tires
More than likely, you had Yokohamas designed for dry weather only...
I am currently trying out some Michelin Pilot MXX3's on my car (god I love
working at a tire store), and they are awesome, a tad stickier than the Yokohama
ES100's, however in the wet, they suck...
The ES100 is more of a dry/wet tire than a specific dry tire...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:27:05 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: dealership recommendations
San Antonio???? THAT'S WHERE I AM!!!!
But, I wouldn't trust a dealership around here with changing the windshield
wiper fluid... That's why I do my own work... Sorry, no personal
experiences, just reports of warpage and bad work at almost every dealership in
town... But then again, that's your average dealership at least...
If I were to try any, I get along pretty good with the parts manager over at
West Loop, but have no direct experience with service...
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zach Sauerman
> Sent:
Monday, May 05, 2003 8:40 PM
>
> I hate to clog the mailboxes of
those who this won't concern, but my
> clutch problem is just gonna have
to be investigated by a shop. I
> appreciate the suggestions that folks
have given me, most have been
> pretty viable options, but I don't have
the time to start exploring.
> I figure since I need to have the recall
work done on the X-fer case
> this is the best time that this sort of
malfunction could have popped
> up if it ever had to.
>
> So,
does anybody in the San Antonio TX area have recommendations as to
> where
I should bring my baby for all this? Somebody who isn't gonna
> give me
some line about my Johnson Rod being bent or Canuter Valve
> leaking, or
taking a few joyrides.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Zach
Sauerman
> 87th Red Bulls
> '94 Pearl Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:51:22 -0400
From: Michael Tanenbaum
<
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: electrical issues
Hi everyone,
Thank you for all your advice with getting my car in shape. It seems
as though
I have some overall electrical problem with my car. First my
computer went - I
replaced it with a reman. one. Then the TPS was
giving me fits - replaced the
TPS and the plug that plugs into it.
Upon inspection, the wires leading to the
TPS are corroded. At first
the car worked much better, but now it's back to
hesitating/jerking under
acceleration and rpms jump around with no throttle.
Also, now each
time I turn on the car, the electrical system seems to have
reset itself -
the air comes on, the clock is at 1:00, and the radio stations
are
unprogrammed.
Other electrical issues I've been having are the ECS (it flashes and
switches
back and forth, especially when it's wet outside) and the SRS light
won't go
off. I don't know if these would all be symptoms of one
problem or not, but
figured I'd share them anyway.
Would something like a faulty ground cause these types of problems?
Thank you
so much.
Michael
'91 Stealth R/T (N/A)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 23:10:12 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: '93 GT VR4, Front Air Dam
From: Steve Chen
Date: 5/5/03
I am probably one of the few who is actually trying to install the active
aero front air dam. I bought the car without the front under cover.
I have purchased all the required parts as listed in the service manual. I
have installed all the parts except the final step of mounting the front under
cover to the air dam link assembly. It appears that I will have to remove the
front bumper face in order to align the front under cover. Is this
correct? The service manual doesn't give any indication one way or the
other. The local dealer mechanic only says that he hates to work on these
cars and doesn't have much experience with them. Are there any links or
pictures that can give me guidance? Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 22:54:16 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: electrical issues
In the main relay block in the engine bay there's what's called the
'storage and IOD connector' which controls power to just about
everything in the car that draws current [involuntarily] when the
ignition's off. This is a captive plug ~ in the middle of the block.
Mine's yellow, yours may differ. It pulls up to disconnect, pushes
back
down to reconnect. The contacts may be dirty or corroded, or
someone may
have actually pulled it up when working on the car. I use
it on mine to keep
the courtesy lights and stuff from drawing the
battery down when I'm working
on it. You could try working it in and
out a couple times to see if that
clears up the problem.
Jon
Michael Tanenbaum wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> Thank you
for all your advice with getting my car in shape. It seems
> as
though
> I have some overall electrical problem with my car. First
my computer went - I
> replaced it with a reman. one. Then the TPS
was giving me fits - replaced the
> TPS and the plug that plugs into
it. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the
> TPS are
corroded. At first the car worked much better, but now it's back to
> hesitating/jerking under acceleration and rpms jump around with no
throttle.
> Also, now each time I turn on the car, the electrical
system seems to have
> reset itself - the air comes on, the clock is at
1:00, and the radio stations
> are unprogrammed.
>
>
Other electrical issues I've been having are the ECS (it flashes and
>
switches back and forth, especially when it's wet outside) and the
> SRS
light won't go off. I don't know if these would all be
> symptoms of
one problem or not, but figured I'd share them anyway.
>
> Would
something like a faulty ground cause these types of problems?
>
Thank you so much.
>
> Michael
>
> '91 Stealth R/T
(N/A)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 04:02:55 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Wheels/tires
I purchased the Moda R6 rims myself from Tire Rack. I also got the
Yokohoma AVS ES100's. I am very pleased with how they handle.
Just curious, how much does having the open rims help with venting for
brakes?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: cody <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Date: Monday,
May 5, 2003 8:15 pm
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels/tires
> What type of car??? Turbo or non-turbo?
>
> I would
highly recommend going to Yokohama AVS ES100's over the
> Kumhos. In
comparison, the Kumho's are junk (Trust me, have had both)
>
> Gimme something to work with here as far as your car and if you
> definitely want 18's, or are open to options...
>
>
-Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 05:08:11 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Is
the ECU Wiring harness the same for 91 & 92 VR-4???
Thanks, folks, for your help last week in trying to figure out how to hook
up my new SAFC-II. If anything, I got too much information, since I am now
more confused than ever. I *did* get the SAFC2 instruction manual in
English from Russ Furman, who faxed me all 70+ pages, (thanks Russ!). BUT
the only wiring diagram in English is for a Toyota. So I'm good for
tuning, but I'm back to square 1 with hooking up the wiring. We tied up
the lists the other day with a ton of posts, so please reply to me privately if
you can help. Once I've figured it all out, I'll put up a web page to
document it for any future SAFC2 owners.
It's been suggested that the ECM wiring harness is the same for all 1st
Gen, 91-93 VR-4. Can this be true? My installer will NOT work on the
car until he is positive which wires go WHERE! He says that all the
harnesses are different, but the manual lists all 91-93 pinouts the same.
(Please remember that I am not a wrench-head, I have never seen the ECU harness
and I couldn't find it on a bet.) I've pored over my '94 Stealth Manual
twice (and checked Jeff Lucius' pages of the ECM from his ARM-1 install page),
and I can't find a pinout on the ECU for the knock sensor! I've been told
it's Pinout #58, but does anyone have verification? It's NOT listed in the
pinouts in the manual.
When wiring this unit in, does he simply tap into the wires at the ECM as
indicated below? This is the info I have for which wires are which for a
92 VR-4. (Thanks to Erik Gross for getting me this far). PLEASE
verify that these are the same wires for a 91 VR-4, and PLEASE correct if they
are wrong:
One more thing-- On the prostreetonline website, they document
installing SAFC2 on an Eclipse. Can someone explain this statement about
the TWO ground wires, please?:
"Locate the ground tap pin 26 and strip the housing back to expose the bare
wire relatively close to the ecu harness side. You will solder / tap the brown
AFCII ground wire here. Do the same to this ground wire, only put the
black AFCII 2nd ground wire FURTHER away from the ecu harness side than the
brown wire. Be careful not to mix this up."
I don't get why you would have separate ground wires, but attach them both
to the *same* wire in different places!?! Huh?
Thanks, everyone!
- --Forrest
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#147
***************************************
