Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, April 23
2003 Volume 02 : Number 137
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:23:35 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
Curtis - Below is the link that Steve Lasher and I made on upgrading a
second gen car to Big Reds. I purchased my Big Reds from our very own Brad
Bedell (he is a list member but the webpage I had for him is a dead link
now). There are others out there also like the Ferrari F-40 kit,
Stillen/AP 6-piston kit, etc. Some are as good as, some are way better,
some have not been tested yet.
The Big Reds come off a Porsche 993 if you want to try and research junk
yards and Porsche sites for building a kit yourself. Also, the Porsche
calipers bolt to the car in a different axis (inline with the car instead of
transverse like stock calipers) so you will need to make an adapter bracket. All
of this is done for you in some of these kits but that is why they cost around
$1,500 too.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Tuesday,
April 22, 2003 16:32
Big REDs are a complete brake upgrade that you have to buy/build, It uses
Porsche calipers, pads, and a custom mounting bracket to work with the 2G+ Twin
Turbo car rotors.
IIRC the kit with brackets was like 1300+, I believe Darren and a couple of
other listers have web pages extolling the virtues of that upgrade.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Curtis McConnell
[mailto:Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 4:29
PM
Speaking of pads, can anyone point me in the direction to get a pair of
"Big Reds"?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
While driving I saw another 3000GT today painted in a navy bluish
color. It
looks amazing, and I've only seen it on a few, 2 or 3,
3000GTs. Can anyone
please tell me the official name for the color and the
paint code if possible.
Thank you
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 16:38:35 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Blue color
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
> While
driving I saw another 3000GT today painted in a navy bluish
> color.
It looks amazing, and I've only seen it on a few, 2 or 3, 3000GTs. Can anyone
please tell me the official name for the color and the paint code if
possible.
> Thank you
> -mike
> 97 SL
-
----------------------------->
Mine is a 91 VR-4, in the lighter blue color. According to Steve
Lasher, in '91 there were two blue colors for the VR-4 - "Fiji Blue" (dark, like
his - maybe that's the one that's Navy blue?). Mine is the lighter color,
called "Jamaica Blue Metallic". I don't have the paint codes, nor a
picture of Steve's car but was the blue you saw like Ann Koch's TT?:
www.Team3S.com/SPIR102701/AnnKoch.htm
Or the lighter color like mine?:
www.Team3S.com/Images/BobVR4JICs.jpgBest,
Forrest
------------------------------
Almost time to replace my stock exhaust. I'm looking for something
throaty, (i.e. deep, not like some of the Hondas with the 'bomb' I've heard
recently).
Any thoughts on good aftermarket exhaust systems? -ear
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:23:50 -0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Still
have parts for sale
Hey all,
The datalogger, boost controller etc. is gone, but still have the following
for sale:
2 9B turbos (50k miles) with intercoolers (good shape)
2 Walbro 341 HP
pumps (Unused)
1 IHI F55 ball bearing turbo (Rebuilt in Japan)
stock
springs (35k miles)
stock exhaust (can't ship this unfortunately unless your
local and want
it) (35k miles)
stock cam shafts (4)
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:48:47 -0400
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Starting and Shaking Problems ...
Two things I would like to discuss.
Problem #1
I just got my 1995 3000GT SL back from the shop today, they
replaced
the front brake pads and now the steering wheel shakes incredibly.
When I am slowing down from 60 or higher, it shakes even worse. I
never had this problem before I had my brake pads replaced. Any
ideas as to what this may be?
Problem #2
It is an Automatic, and after I start it up and run it only
for say
3-4 minutes and then park it, when I go back to start it up, say 15
minutes later, it will start but when I shift into Drive, it will
just
stop. I put it back into park and start it again, however, it
will
turn over only to die again. If I hold down the gas pedal a
little bit
it will start, and run, but I have to give it a reasonable
amount of gas for
the next 5 minutes. Any ideas as to what may be
doing this. I
just recently had my oil changed and used the
recommended. I put
premium gas into the car and just have no idea
what may be causing either of
these problems.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 00:09:43 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Starting and Shaking Problems ...
I don't really see the connection between new pads and this appearing
(except maybe if your old ones were completely worn out), but a shaking steering
wheel at high speed braking usually means warped rotors.
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:11:41 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Alternator repair...follow up
Glenn asks if I can post my part numbers for everyone's benefit. This
may not be of any use to everyone. I'm finding a LOT of similar parts on a
number of slight variations in alternator designs. The BEST way to find
parts for your alternator is to go to their website and look up parts for the
specific model that you have. You can do this by going to their online
catalog and then clicking on the "OE+X-No to Transpo" link. You can then
enter the model number from the plate or tag on your alternator.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
- -----Original Message-----
From: glenn vrfour
[mailto:vr4glenn@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 10:01 AM
That's great news. Can you post the part numbers for
those of us
who may need them in the future?
Glenn
- --- "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>
MANY, MANY thanks to Marc Jacobs for the Transpo
> electronics INC
link!!!
> (
www.transpo-usa.com)
>
> I
called them directly, but unfortunately, they
> don't sell to the
public.
> They referred me to a LOCAL shop here in the
St.
<<Snip>>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 00:15:57 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Minimum Rotor
Thickness WAS Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
Following up on all this, I remember that the last time I had my wheels
off, I measured the rotor thickness and it was .1mm below what's stamped on
there as the minimum thickness. They are warped pretty badly right now, and I
really would like to turn them as I can't afford new ones. The question is, if I
stay off the track until I can afford new rotors, can I turn them, even though
that will definitely put them below minimum thickness? What's the minimum I can
go under?
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:02:03 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Minimum Rotor Thickness WAS Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
The shop will probably refuse to machine them if they are under. Unless you
tell them that these rotors are for your mountain bike and that the minimal
thickness does not apply :-). But they will gladly sell you a set of
generic rotors for cheap. Try Murray's Auto Parts.
Philip
At 12:15 AM 4/23/2003, you wrote:
>Following up on all this, I
remember that the last time I had my wheels
>off, I measured the rotor
thickness and it was .1mm below what's
>stamped on there as the minimum
thickness. They are warped pretty badly
>right now, and I really would
like to turn them as I can't afford new
>ones. The question is, if I stay
off the track until I can afford new
>rotors, can I turn them, even
though that will definitely put them
>below minimum thickness? What's the
minimum I can go under?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:08:30 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Minimum Rotor Thickness
Alex -- The minimum thickness is just for that purpose - you shouldn't use
them much below this thickness or you might find that they will crack if put
through an emergency situation. If you take them to any shop they will
discard them due to the fact they are below the minimum thickness. So you
won't be able to get them turned.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
Sent: Wednesday,
April 23, 2003 00:16
Following up on all this, I remember that the last time I had my wheels
off, I measured the rotor thickness and it was .1mm below what's stamped on
there as the minimum thickness. They are warped pretty badly right now, and I
really would like to turn them as I can't afford new ones. The question is, if I
stay off the track until I can afford new rotors, can I turn them, even though
that will definitely put them below minimum thickness? What's the minimum I can
go under?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:19:41 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust systems
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ranzenbach" <
ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net>
>
Almost time to replace my stock exhaust. I'm looking for something
throaty, (i.e. deep, not like some of the Hondas with the 'bomb' I've heard
recently). Any thoughts on good aftermarket exhaust systems? -ear
-
----------------------------->
For a long time, I always thought that the Borlas were too loud, but it
turns out that it was because the cats were gutted on the cars I heard. My
VR-4 has a Borla cat-back exhaust on it ($750, from Dynamic Racing) - it's
"throaty", but not offensive (unless you go around a quiet neighborhood at night
revving the hell out of it). ;-) It was pointed out to me that the
Random Technology high-flow cat (~$250) and ATR 3" downpipe (~$350) that are on
mine changes the exhaust "note" to something that's more pleasant than it would
be on a "cat-less" or gutted-cat system. Compared to stock, it's
substantially louder, but compared to those Hondas with 10-foot wings, it's
downright friendly.
You can put in the cat-back exhaust alone, but since they'll already have
it apart, go for the DP and HF cat too, if it's in your budget. You'll
feel a substantial performance benefit, both in HP and responsiveness.
3SXPerformance has exhaust systems on their website from ATR Performance (a
great system at $780) and JIC ($950). GTPro carries exhausts from HKS,
Greddy and Pit Road from $700 to (gulp) $2500, but I have never seen/heard any
of them. Even though the ATR is supposed to flow a bit better, I do *love*
this Borla, though... That's got my vote. ;-)
HTH,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 00:14:45 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust systems
Another thing that makes a difference is how your car is running, if you're
too rich you will have more of a growl, if you are running leaner it's slightly
metallic sounding. Maybe it's just me but that's what I noticed when I was
tuning my bigger injectors in. My car had a magnaflow (cheap) straight through
muffler welded on for a total of about $300, so if you want to save money go
that route, it sounded nice too :) Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP) "Don't
drink and park, accidents cause people!"
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
April 22, 2003 11:19 PM
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ranzenbach" <
ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net>
>
Almost time to replace my stock exhaust. I'm looking for something
throaty, (i.e. deep, not like some of the Hondas with the 'bomb' I've heard
recently). Any thoughts on good aftermarket exhaust systems? -ear
-
----------------------------->
For a long time, I always thought that the Borlas were too loud, but it
tuns out that it was because the cats were gutted on the cars I heard. My
VR-4 has a Borla cat-back exhaust on it ($750, from Dynamic Racing) - it's
"throaty", but not offensive (unless you go around a quiet neighborhood at night
revving the hell out of it). ;-) It was pointed out to me that the
Random Technology high-flow cat (~$250) and ATR 3" downpipe (~$350) that are on
mine changes the exhaust "note" to something that's more pleasant than it would
be on a "cat-less" or gutted-cat system. Compared to stock, it's
substantially louder, but compared to those Hondas with 10-foot wings, it's
downright friendly.
You can put in the cat-back exhaust alone, but since they'll already have
it apart, go for the DP and HF cat too, if it's in your budget. You'll
feel a substantial performance benefit, both in HP and responsiveness.
3SXPerformance has exhaust systems on their website from ATR Performance (a
great system at $780) and JIC ($950). GTPro carries exhausts from HKS,
Greddy and Pit Road from $700 to (gulp) $2500, but I have never seen/heard any
of them. Even though the ATR is supposed to flow a bit better, I do *love*
this Borla, though... That's got my vote. ;-)
HTH,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 00:19:44 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust systems
I have a HKS with test pipe and it sounds great. I got mine for
$100.00(Hehe). Good to have friends that are always upgrading.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 23, 2003 12:14 AM
> Another thing that makes a difference is how your car is running,
if
you're too rich you will have more of a growl, if you are running leaner
it's slightly metallic sounding. Maybe it's just me but that's what I noticed
when I was tuning my bigger injectors in. My car had a magnaflow (cheap)
straight through muffler welded on for a total of about $300, so if you want to
save money go that route, it sounded nice too :) Donald
> Ashby '93
3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
> "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:36:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Minimum Rotor Thickness WAS Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
The minimum IS the minimum.
Rotors come apart when you go beyond it..ask how we know..
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
At 01:36 AM 4/23/03 -0500, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>The minimum IS the
minimum.
>Rotors come apart when you go beyond it..ask how we know..
>On Wed, 23 Apr 2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>> What's the minimum
I can go under?
>>
Rich>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 07:45:12 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Minimum
Rotor Thickness WAS Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
As I recall you were racing on it when it broke --- he's talking about
going to work on it for a couple of months. If he's in the habit of making
multiple panic stops per day It would be an issue.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
At 07:45 AM 4/23/03 -0700, fastmax wrote:
>As I recall you were
racing on it when it broke --- he's talking about
>going to work on it
for a couple of months. If he's in the habit of
>making multiple panic
stops per day It would be an issue.
I drive the same, on the track or not. Difference is, I don't have to watch
out for cops on the track.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 08:29:34 -0700
From: "Edward Vinces" <
ed@compros.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake
rotors
If anybody is interested, I have the original set of rotors from my 91 VR4,
I have cross-drilled rotors that were installed years ago. The thickness on the
original rotors are 19.9 and 29.84 mm. I am in the San Francisco area. I do not
know what are they worth, but e-mail me if you are interested. Ed Vinces
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 07:58:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Factory Car Alarm/Rotors
As Carole Mohror has, this Carol has a similar problem. :) My driver side
door lock is a little loose so sometimes it sets off my car alarm in the middle
of unlocking my door. However, starting the car with the key will not make
the alarm go off. I was just wondering if it was supposed to turn the
alarm off when the engine is started. Also, with a 1991 R/T TT AWD did it
have a keychain thing to turn the alarm off? I just want the ability to
turn it off without having to disconnect the battery cable.
1 more thing....
I have heard of people getting their rotors
turned. What does that mean? Is it effective if your rotors are
already warped?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 11:28:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Minimum Rotor Thickness WAS Team3S: Metal Matrix vs R4S
Shouldn't matter.
Safety is a shitty place to cut corners on.
I don't care if he buys my rotors or not..if he cant afford em, that's ok.
But please DO NOT run them below spec. Cheapies from the local corner
store is worth it IMHO.
On Wed, 23 Apr 2003, fastmax wrote:
> As I recall you were racing on it when it broke --- he's talking about
> going to work on it for a couple of months. If he's in the habit of
> making multiple panic stops per day It would be an issue.
>
> Jim Berry
------------------------------
>I have heard of people getting their rotors turned. What does
that
>mean? Is it effective if your rotors are already
warped?
"Turning" means to take the rotors off the car, put them on a big lathe,
and cut the metal down so it is perfectly flat on both sides. When rotors warp,
they get like a 33 rpm record that's been left out in the sun. (What's a 33 rpm
record? Did you really ask that?) They don't really curl up, but they just get a
little wavy, and a good turning will make them straight again.
If YOU take the rotors off yourself and take 'em to the shop, it's $5 to
$15 each; if Billy Bob's Brake shop does it for you, it can cost from a billion
to a zillion dollars, depending on how dumb they think you are. Being a girl,
you are, of course, a prime target for this.
When they come back with their estimate for a billion dollars to turn the
rotors, say, "What? Are you crazy? All you have to do is take two bolts off to
loosen the caliper in the back and the rotors pop right off! Come on, that's
like 15 minutes a side. Give me a break!" That'll shake them up down at the
brake shop. Be prepared to pay for an hour's labor. That's fair.
Now you have to be prepared for the "Ya need new rotors, darlin'" sell.
Maybe you do. Ask them "Are they below discard depth of 1.118 inch?" Ask them to
show you. If so, you can do one of two only things:
1. Have them order you a set of new rotors from the dealer (about $120
each). Most likely, the dealer will not have a set in stock, and will have to
order them in. If so, you might as well do #2. 2. Go to one of the discount
parts places around here, such as mitsupartsdirect.com and order them there for
about half the price.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 13:10:00 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Factory Car Alarm/Rotors
Starting the engine with the key will not make the alarm go off. You
have to "unlock" the door using the key. At least that's how mine
works. There is no keyless option for the 1991's.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chad and Carol Decker
[mailto:carolnchad@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 8:58
AM
As Carole Mohror has, this Carol has a similar problem. :) My driver side
door lock is a little loose so sometimes it sets off my car alarm in the middle
of unlocking my door. However, starting the car with the key will not make
the alarm go off. I was just wondering if it was supposed to turn the
alarm off when the engine is started. Also, with a 1991 R/T TT AWD did it
have a keychain thing to turn the alarm off? I just want the ability to
turn it off without having to disconnect the battery cable.
1 more thing....
I have heard of people getting their rotors
turned. What does that mean? Is it effective if your rotors are
already warped?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:25:32 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Alarm and
starting
If you can start the car with the alarm active, there is a malfunction of
the starter disable relay in the alarm circuit.
Jim
91 RTTT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 13:33:44 -0600
From: Janice Findlay <
jefind@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S: wiring
problem
I am trying to hook up my indiglo gauges on my 93 stealth and I having some
trouble. I was told to tap into the green wire going to my fog light
switch and use the bolt behind my gauge cluster as a ground but that didn't
work. I think it's because I have a car from Atlanta and when it was brought
over the border to Canada they had to re-wire the fog lights to make them act as
day time running lights. Any suggestions? Does anybody know which
wire I'd tap into if I wanted them to come on with my headlights? Thanks
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 15:37:27 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wiring problem
I tapped mine into the switched hot wire on the dimmer switch. They
work perfectly that way, and come any time you'd expect the dash lights to come
on. Let me know if you set a SRS trouble code when you get it all
done. Mine did.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Janice Findlay
[mailto:jefind@shaw.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 3:34 PM
I am trying to hook up my indiglo gauges on my 93 stealth and I having some
trouble. I was told to tap into the green wire going to my fog light
switch and use the bolt behind my gauge cluster as a ground but that didn't
work. I think it's because I have a car from Atlanta and when it was brought
over the border to Canada they had to re-wire the fog lights to make them act as
day time running lights. Any suggestions? Does anybody know which
wire I'd tap into if I wanted them to come on with my headlights? Thanks
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 16:26:58 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: wiring problem
I hooked up my two aftermarket A-pillar gauges and tapped into the dimmer
switch (rheostat) and followed instructions from Jeff Lucius' page (
www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanel.htm).
I didn't make notes at the time but hooked up a wire, dimmed the switch, watched
the gauge get brighter, and knew it was hooked up backwards. I grounded
them down near the fusebox where a host of others are grounded like the CB and
the scanner wires. Maybe you don't have a good enough ground or something.
Also, I wired into the fusebox to something that turns on with the ignition like
the radio. Lights can be on with or without the ignition and for some things
that drain the battery too much this is not always advisable.
A mess of wires can be seen here but I followed advice from Jeff's page so
I didn't really document much when I did mine.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:59:22 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen
> After seeing a number of posts commenting on the lack of a data logger
> capability for the second gen. I came across a product called
> "CarChip" that plugs into the diagnostic connector that claims to
> provide some data logging functions. Don't know if this will
provide
> as much detail as we need (I haven't used it yet), but wanted
to pass
> it on as a possible step in the right direction. It is made by
a
> company called Davis Instruments.
http://www.carchip.com
It is actually only the '94-95 cars that have the incompatible logger
format. '91-93 can use a TMO Datalogger, or PocketLogger, or Tunerstein,
or similar. '96-99 can use any OBD-2 logger (many available). The
'94-95 cars can only directly connect to a Mitsubishi MUT-II scan tool ($2000 or
so) for logging purposes, and you can't see knock count from there - which is
what most people are looking for.
For '94-95 cars there are a couple other options. You can use some
off-the-shelf data acquisition equipment interfaced with a laptop computer, or
the EFI Systems PMS will allow you to datalog most anything other than raw knock
count, or you can upgrade to a standalone ECU like the AEM EMS which provides
its own logging interface for everything going on inside the unit. Some
people are using the extra analog input on the Super-AFC and just watching the
voltage reading as a rough guide for knock - although that seems iffy to
me. You can also retrofit a '93 ECU by rewiring some of the harness
connections and then using the TMO or PocketLogger.
It is the cheap and easy route that's lacking for '94-95 at this point.
With enough determination and money, anything is possible now.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#137
***************************************
