Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, February 27 2003  Volume 02 : Number 091
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 09:53:29 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip     WAS:TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace ...
 
Doh.  I listed the same picture twice... the second one was supposed to be this one:  http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/RSwBEL1.jpg  Copy and paste is the devil's tool :-)
 
- --Erik
 
> Here's a view of the rear LH side, where you can see the end-link from
> another angle:
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:55:11 -0700
From: "Curtis McConnell" <Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Springs
 
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder and I'm looking for lowering springs (Ground control to my knowledge is the only one that will fit my car)=20
 
I've looked at a few websites but can't find them. Can someone tell me where I can get them, also how low can I go and stay within alignment limits with the rest of the suspension stock?=20
 
Thanks
 
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:17:47 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
 
Yeah, I'll second the Eibachs for the street. Fantastic.
The mufflers sounds like an interesting solution, I'd be super amazed at 15-20 HP for the 3SX item, would need test data to convince me. On the NA I have a hard time thinking exhaust is much of a restriction. But it can't hurt, esp if you plan on nitrous. (I have 3in cat and muffler on mine, but stock DP and precats.)
 
If you are looking for work, and plan to 'track' your car, then I have alternatives for the springs.
1. Get coilovers (TEIN or JIC seem the best) and get spring rate, camber adj, ride adj, and shock adj all at once. 2. If you decide just springs, then get TT springs used and cut to desired ride height. The extra rate in the springs will compensate for the reduced length regarding bottoming. I actually swapped my NA struts to TT ECS, but there's more involved that way. Even with just the springs and a stiffer rear sway bar, you should feel like a gocart.
 
On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can go lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off though.
 
The main drawback of 16in is if you decide to upgrade brakes later, some caliper/rotors will not fit. 1st gen TT should fit most 16in, 2nd gen and most aftermarket will not.
   
Kurt      
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 2:50 PM
 
I can't help you with the muffler question, other than to say that you will not pass inspection without the cat.  There is a nice replacement downpipe and free-flow cat (combo) available on the 3SX Performance website that will net you 15-20 HP *and* still be street-legal.  I'll be putting it on my Stealth NT sometime in the next several weeks, when they get them in stock. They're at www.3SXPerformance.com.  I have Eibachs on my car, which lower 1.5"F/1.3"R, and are a good height for street, but not quite enough for the track. Intrax will give you a bit more, but it's also an harder ride. What you say about wheels isn't so--  Wheels are all the same height and size, if they are "plus-sized" properly - you use low-profile tires to maintain size consistency.  The theory and sizing possibilities are on our website, in the FAQ pages: www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm.  I run 16" at the track (but I'm getting 17's) and 18" wheels on the street.  You can see that even 18" wheels are *not* higher than stock in this photo of mine (18" wheels, Eibachs, other
mods) here:  www.Team3S.com/THill.htm
Good luck!
 
- --Forrest
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:18:22 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Springs
 
Curtis
 
There is a group buy coming to a close on these. (like by tomorrow I think)
 
Ground Control Coilovers  $340 shipped - in the Group Buys forum of 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center. http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?threadid=123975
or $353.40 if you PayPal
 
A solution for the rear camber trouble from lowering is to use 3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms. http://www.3sxperformance.com/ I don't know if there are any other alternatives or not?  I've never seen anything else like them. I run these and alignment is dead on spec now. (I don't have the Ground Controls yet - I'm one of a dozen or so in that group
buy)
 
Dan
97 VR4
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnell" <Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 11:55 AM
 
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder and I'm looking for lowering springs (Ground control to my knowledge is the only one that will fit my car)
 
I've looked at a few websites but can't find them. Can someone tell me where I can get them, also how low can I go and stay within alignment limits with the rest of the suspension stock?
 
Thanks
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:51:38 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip     WAS:TEC Rear Strut Tower Brace ...
 
Eric
Yep - that spacer/bushing  in the pic is indeed the culprit.  The endlink assembly bolt presents the illusion that it will not clear at all until you push (pry bar) the Saner hard forward (toward the front) and then torque everything down.  Still - obviously too close in my case.  I guess I must do some fabricating. What's strange is there would seem to be little possibility for movement right there - yet somehow...
 
Thanks (good pics!)
Dan 97 VR4
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik"
<snip>
Here's a view of the rear LH side, where you can see the end-link from another angle: http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/RSwBEL1.jpg.  Note the spacer/bushing between the anti-sway bar (black) and the end link (silver). What we ended up doing was to cut the spacer in half, grind it down so it was flat and smooth, and reinstall the bar.  <snip>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:24:39 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Springs
 
>> 3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms. ... I don't know if there are any
>> other alternatives or not?
 
http://www.ppeengineering.com/ http://www.ppeengineering.com/3ssuspension.htm
 
The design and price are a bit different than the 3SX version. I'll be installing a set in a month or two and will report results and install tips on a new web page.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:43:25 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
 
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off
> though.
 
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo.  So long as normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was from the factory.  Unless you are talking about going with a smaller diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not entirely. 
 
Read more here:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htm
 
- -Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:45:41 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
 
I was thinking of going to a smaller tire diameter to lower my gearing. I have an automatic NA & the gearing is way too high. If my engine could wind up to red line with the converter locked I'd be doing 190 MPH+. I'd be happy to see it red line at 160, it MIGHT make it most of the way there geared lower and would do it way quicker. I've had it up to 135 for several minutes without pushing real hard, don't know if it would go much farther. It had an inch more peddle and seemed like it would but I backed off. It is a dog off the line & even up to 40 MPH then it takes off. Lower gearing would help me out a lot.
 
Pete Rivenburg
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 6:43 PM
 
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off
though.
 
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo.  So long as normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was from the factory.  Unless you are talking about going with a smaller diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not entirely. 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:47:52 -0600
From: "Steve" <denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject: Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
 
Got the car back together and have no compression
in all 6 Cyls. (All 24 values are bent)
The compression needle does not even flinch.
when you turn the car over it sound like
the timing belt isn't even on.
All you hear is the starter and for those of you
that have heard a motor that has broke a timing belt
or has low or no compression you know what that sounds like.
 
So if there is a lesson to be learned hear it would be
do your 60k tune up on time. Make sure your harmonic balancer is in perfect running order and be very careful if you decide to
go with aftermarket camshaft pulleys or Underdrive pulley.
 
I hear people complain on this thread about cost of parts
and where can I get cheap parts.
there is no such thing of cheap parts for this car
and if you decide to buy lower quality parts you will
get what you pay for.  
I have one thing to say to those people.
Don't put off scheduled maintenance because of financial hardships or lack of funds if you can not afford to maintenance your own vehicle park it, or find a car that is within your means.
 
I did not mean to go on a rant.
 
I have found a JDM motor with 30k miles for $1,495.00
plus $85.00 S/H I don't think this is a bad price.
If any one on this thread can beat this price let me know.
 
Any comments are welcome
 
Just to keep the group up to date
here is a link to what happened to my car. http://sphear41.mysitespace.com/3000GT/index.htm
 
Steve Truskosky
 
Pearl white 1995 3000GT SL 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:57:46 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
 
Smaller diameter does not allow wider.  When is the last time you saw a 275/45-16 in any sort of performance tire?  I currently have 275/35-18 on my car, however you are right, it would require a 5 mm spacer with factory wheels...  You may not sacrifice spring length with a smaller tire, but, you will also sacrifice ground clearance and make the wheel well gap WORSE than it is...
 
Problem is that tires are built around some core sizes.  225/55-16, 245/45-17, 245/40-18 are all OE tire sizes, and all the same height. There is not much available in widths with lower profiles.  The only two sizes I can come up with is a 245/45-16 and a 245/40-17.  Both of these would be exactly 1" less diameter than stock.  So, if you want wider, you have to larger diameter too (for the most part).
 
Also, the statement "gives better acceleration" is somewhat true, however, it will also negatively affect gas mileage.
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt [mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 8:32 PM
 
Yes, the gentleman originally requesting wanted to go smaller.
He implied wanting smaller for looks, his likes, both wheel and tire.
 
The smaller tire gives better acceleration.
The smaller tire is less expensive.
The smaller tire allows you to go wider w/o spacers.
The smaller tire allows lowering w/o sacrificing spring length. The smaller rim is stronger.
 
RIP
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 5:43 PM
 
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off
though.
 
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo.  So long as normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was from the factory.  Unless you are talking about going with a smaller diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not entirely. 
 
Read more here:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htm
 
- -Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:21:29 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
 
 Hi folks,
 
Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to remove and replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)?  Can you do this from the wheel well, or do you have to remove the front bumper?  How much time does it take to remove the front  bumper?
 
Thanks,
Ken
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 23:41:31 -0500
From: "Nick Moore" <nmoore33@purdue.edu>
Subject: Team3S: How much should I expect to pay to have the tranny fluid changed?
 
Hi all,
   I think it's time for a fluid change in my transmission. I couldn't tell you when the last time it was changed, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to have it done.  It's a 92 stealth es, auto transmission.  How much should I expect to pay and where do you guys recommend that I take it to have it done?  Of course I wouldn't take it to a dealer(because I don't have that kind of money), but are there any ideas of good places to take it? Thanks
 
Nick
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:12:27 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
 
Too bad, but this is the zero tolerance story of our cars :-(
 
>So if there is a lesson to be learned hear it would be
>do your 60k tune up on time. Make sure your harmonic balancer is in
>perfect running order and be very careful if you decide to go with
>aftermarket camshaft pulleys or Underdrive pulley.
 
Well, an underdrive puppy has nothing to do with the timing belt slipping
or falling off. But of course whenever the timing belt must be touched one
should do this very carefully.
 
>I hear people complain on this thread about cost of parts
>and where can I get cheap parts.
>there is no such thing of cheap parts for this car
>and if you decide to buy lower quality parts you will
>get what you pay for.
>I have one thing to say to those people.
>Don't put off scheduled maintenance because of financial hardships or
>lack of funds if you can not afford to maintenance your own vehicle
>park it, or find a car that is within your means.
 
I highly agree. It's the same like people want to increase horsepower and
install an aquarium bleeder valve instead of a good electronic boost
controller with overboost prevention and feedback loop. If one cannot
afford the right parts for the car then he's driving the wrong car. And for
sure a 18 year old is not earning as much as we guys from the 60s but one
must know that if the car isn't prepared as it should the cost will become
exponentially higher.
 
>I have found a JDM motor with 30k miles for $1,495.00
>plus $85.00 S/H I don't think this is a bad price.
>If any one on this thread can beat this price let me know.
 
I personally think that this is a good price for a non-turbo engine.
 
>Any comments are welcome
 
Yes... don't go the cheap way anymore and avoid using FRAM filters !
 
Roger G
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:14:53 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
 
Hey Ken, removal of the bumper is necessary at least it makes work much
much easier. If you just replace the cores with another stock ones, then it
takes about 4 hours for everything. If you throw in aftermarket ones, be
prepared to spend several days.
 
Roger G.
93' & 96'3000GT tt
www.rtec.ch
 
>Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to remove
>and replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)?  Can you do this from
>the wheel well, or do you have to remove the front bumper?  How much
>time does it take to remove the front  bumper?
>
>Thanks,
>Ken
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:19:27 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How much should I expect to pay to have the tranny fluid changed?
 
This is a good question for an international list *gg*.
 
I'd take it to a dealer who knows the cars and can recommend a good oil
what they had good experience in these trannies. I paid around $80 at our
local dealer for tranny and diff oil change including work and fluids.
 
Please remember, you bought an expensive car so spend the money or sooner
or later something is going south :-(
 
Roger G.
93' & 96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
At 23:41 26.02.2003 -0500, Nick Moore wrote:
>Hi all,
>    I think it's time for a fluid change in my transmission. I couldn't
>tell you when the last time it was changed, so I guess it wouldn't hurt
>to have it done.  It's a 92 stealth es, auto transmission.  How much
>should I expect to pay and where do you guys recommend that I take it
>to have it done?  Of course I wouldn't take it to a dealer(because I
>don't have that kind of money), but are there any ideas of good places
>to take it? Thanks
>
>Nick
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 14:14:17 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
 
To gain access to the ICs from the wheel well you have removed the toughest parts that are also required to remove the front bumper.
- - support front and remove the wheels,
- - the front splash shield in the wheel well,
- - and the undercovers below the ICs.
 
There are only a few more undercovers, some headlight/foglight stuff, license plate bracket, and some bolts and the bumper cover slides off. Figure an hour or so to remove the front bumper - there are a lot of screws/bolts. With the cover off you can also easily upgrade your factory horn, and maybe move the oil cooler to the front.
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fmoc.htm
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ic.htm
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fiammhorn.htm
 
>From the above web page:
"The details of the front bumper removal depend on the year and model of your car. Generally you perform the following tasks, but please refer to your service manual for the details for your particular model. Place the front end of the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Remove some or all of the front undercover panels, including those covering the active aero system if your car has that. Remove the splash shield inside the fender in front of the wheel. Remove the fog lights. Remove the license plate bracket. Remove the combination lights, and for 1994 and newer models remove the headlights. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the front bumper and slide the bumper cover off the car. I found it easier to work without the bumper reinforcement bar installed so I removed it also. The reinforcement bar is held on by 4 bolts on each side and only weighs about 12 pounds (my car). The front bumper cover weighs about 18 pounds (my car)"
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 9:21 PM
 
Hi folks,
 
Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to remove and replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)?  Can you do this from the wheel well, or do you have to remove the front bumper?  How much time does it take to remove the front  bumper?
 
Thanks,
Ken
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:23:45 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
 
I highly agree. It's the same like people want to increase horsepower and
install an aquarium bleeder valve instead of a good electronic boost
controller with overboost prevention and feedback loop. If one cannot
afford the right parts for the car then he's driving the wrong car. And for
sure a 18 year old is not earning as much as we guys from the 60s but one
must know that if the car isn't prepared as it should the cost will become
exponentially higher.
 
Two things - bleeders suck, but manual boost controllers are just as good as an electronic boost controller.
 
The other - keep shopping, I purchased a JDM motor for $1350 shipped, and have heard of them cheaper...  A couple sites you might try are
 
http://www.aaengines.com/contact.htm
http://www.cjee.com/mitsubishi.htm
http://www.atk-engines.com/mitsu.html
 
Good luck...
 
- -Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:22:13 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
 
Quick comments for the 2nd gens:
 
1)  You don't have to take off the wheels -
    just let them hang after the car is
    supported.  This should work for a
    1st gen, but I haven't tried personally.
 
2)  Foglight removal is not necessary, even
    though the manual seems to indicate that
    it is.  2nd gens only on this one.
 
Also, Jeff's right - the splashguards and active aero dam are the largest pain, thanks to those @#$% little plastic clips with the Phillips screw in the middle that is always covered with gunk and strips out.  Once you have the splashguards off, removing the bumper isn't that bad.  The rest is just about 40 bolts and clips that hold the bumper on.  Don't forget the bolts behind the corner lights that you access from the rear - go in from where the splashguard was - there are 3 on each side on my '95.
 
- --Erik
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:56:32 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Yokohama Tire Advertisement
 
Hey guys - You may get some adrenalin going watching this.
 
http://www.77ch.com/yokohama/ad07mobara_b.asx
 
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
 

> Quick comments for the 2nd gens:
>
> 1)  You don't have to take off the wheels -
>     just let them hang after the car is
>     supported.  This should work for a
>     1st gen, but I haven't tried personally.
>
> 2)  Foglight removal is not necessary, even
>     though the manual seems to indicate that
>     it is.  2nd gens only on this one.
>
> Also, Jeff's right - the splashguards and active aero dam are the
> largest pain, thanks to those @#$% little plastic clips with the
> Phillips screw in the middle that is always covered with gunk and
> strips out.  Once you have the splashguards off, removing the bumper
> isn't that bad.  The rest is just
> about 40 bolts and clips that hold the bumper on.  Don't forget the
> bolts behind the corner lights that you access from the rear - go in
> from where the splashguard was - there are 3 on each side on my '95.
>
> --Erik
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #91
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