Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, February 27 2003 Volume
02 : Number 091
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 09:53:29 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip WAS:TEC Rear
Strut Tower Brace ...
- --Erik
> Here's a view of the rear LH side, where you can see the end-link
from
> another angle:
------------------------------
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder and I'm looking for lowering springs (Ground
control to my knowledge is the only one that will fit my car)=20
I've looked at a few websites but can't find them. Can someone tell me
where I can get them, also how low can I go and stay within alignment limits
with the rest of the suspension stock?=20
Thanks
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:17:47 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
Yeah, I'll second the Eibachs for the street. Fantastic.
The mufflers
sounds like an interesting solution, I'd be super amazed at 15-20 HP for the 3SX
item, would need test data to convince me. On the NA I have a hard time thinking
exhaust is much of a restriction. But it can't hurt, esp if you plan on nitrous.
(I have 3in cat and muffler on mine, but stock DP and precats.)
If you are looking for work, and plan to 'track' your car, then I have
alternatives for the springs.
1. Get coilovers (TEIN or JIC seem the best)
and get spring rate, camber adj, ride adj, and shock adj all at once. 2. If you
decide just springs, then get TT springs used and cut to desired ride height.
The extra rate in the springs will compensate for the reduced length regarding
bottoming. I actually swapped my NA struts to TT ECS, but there's more involved
that way. Even with just the springs and a stiffer rear sway bar, you should
feel like a gocart.
On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can go
lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of whack with
somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off though.
The
main drawback of 16in is if you decide to upgrade brakes later, some
caliper/rotors will not fit. 1st gen TT should fit most 16in, 2nd gen and most
aftermarket will not.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 2:50 PM
I can't help you with the muffler question, other than to say that you will
not pass inspection without the cat. There is a nice replacement downpipe
and free-flow cat (combo) available on the 3SX Performance website that will net
you 15-20 HP *and* still be street-legal. I'll be putting it on my Stealth
NT sometime in the next several weeks, when they get them in stock. They're at
www.3SXPerformance.com. I have
Eibachs on my car, which lower 1.5"F/1.3"R, and are a good height for street,
but not quite enough for the track. Intrax will give you a bit more, but it's
also an harder ride. What you say about wheels isn't so-- Wheels are all
the same height and size, if they are "plus-sized" properly - you use
low-profile tires to maintain size consistency. The theory and sizing
possibilities are on our website, in the FAQ pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm.
I run 16" at the track (but I'm getting 17's) and 18" wheels on the
street. You can see that even 18" wheels are *not* higher than stock in
this photo of mine (18" wheels, Eibachs, other
mods) here:
www.Team3S.com/THill.htmGood
luck!
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:18:22 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ground Control Springs
Curtis
There is a group buy coming to a close on these. (like by tomorrow I
think)
A solution for the rear camber trouble from lowering is to use 3SX
Adjustable Rear Control Arms.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/ I don't
know if there are any other alternatives or not? I've never seen anything
else like them. I run these and alignment is dead on spec now. (I don't have the
Ground Controls yet - I'm one of a dozen or so in that group
buy)
Dan
97 VR4
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder and I'm looking for lowering springs (Ground
control to my knowledge is the only one that will fit my car)
I've looked at a few websites but can't find them. Can someone tell me
where I can get them, also how low can I go and stay within alignment limits
with the rest of the suspension stock?
Thanks
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:51:38 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear Sway Bar Installation Tip WAS:TEC Rear
Strut Tower Brace ...
Eric
Yep - that spacer/bushing in the pic is indeed the
culprit. The endlink assembly bolt presents the illusion that it will not
clear at all until you push (pry bar) the Saner hard forward (toward the front)
and then torque everything down. Still - obviously too close in my
case. I guess I must do some fabricating. What's strange is there would
seem to be little possibility for movement right there - yet somehow...
Thanks (good pics!)
Dan 97 VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross,
Erik"
<snip>
Here's a view of the rear LH side, where you can see
the end-link from another angle:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Temp/RSwBEL1.jpg.
Note the spacer/bushing between the anti-sway bar (black) and the end link
(silver). What we ended up doing was to cut the spacer in half, grind it down so
it was flat and smooth, and reinstall the bar. <snip>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:24:39 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control Springs
>> 3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms. ... I don't know if there are
any
>> other alternatives or not?
The design and price are a bit different than the 3SX version. I'll be
installing a set in a month or two and will report results and install tips on a
new web page.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:43:25 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can
go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be off
>
though.
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel
diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo. So long as
normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was
from the factory. Unless you are talking about going with a smaller
diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not
entirely.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:45:41 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
I was thinking of going to a smaller tire diameter to lower my gearing. I
have an automatic NA & the gearing is way too high. If my engine could wind
up to red line with the converter locked I'd be doing 190 MPH+. I'd be happy to
see it red line at 160, it MIGHT make it most of the way there geared lower and
would do it way quicker. I've had it up to 135 for several minutes without
pushing real hard, don't know if it would go much farther. It had an inch more
peddle and seemed like it would but I backed off. It is a dog off the line &
even up to 40 MPH then it takes off. Lower gearing would help me out a
lot.
Pete Rivenburg
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 6:43
PM
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can
go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be
off
though.
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel
diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo. So long as
normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was
from the factory. Unless you are talking about going with a smaller
diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not
entirely.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:47:52 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
Got the car back together and have no compression
in all 6 Cyls. (All 24
values are bent)
The compression needle does not even flinch.
when you
turn the car over it sound like
the timing belt isn't even on.
All you
hear is the starter and for those of you
that have heard a motor that has
broke a timing belt
or has low or no compression you know what that sounds
like.
So if there is a lesson to be learned hear it would be
do your 60k tune
up on time. Make sure your harmonic balancer is in perfect running order and be
very careful if you decide to
go with aftermarket camshaft pulleys or
Underdrive pulley.
I hear people complain on this thread about cost of parts
and where can
I get cheap parts.
there is no such thing of cheap parts for this car
and
if you decide to buy lower quality parts you will
get what you pay
for.
I have one thing to say to those people.
Don't put off
scheduled maintenance because of financial hardships or lack of funds if you can
not afford to maintenance your own vehicle park it, or find a car that is within
your means.
I did not mean to go on a rant.
I have found a JDM motor with 30k miles for $1,495.00
plus $85.00 S/H I
don't think this is a bad price.
If any one on this thread can beat this
price let me know.
Any comments are welcome
Steve Truskosky
Pearl white 1995 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:57:46 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
Smaller diameter does not allow wider. When is the last time you saw
a 275/45-16 in any sort of performance tire? I currently have 275/35-18 on
my car, however you are right, it would require a 5 mm spacer with factory
wheels... You may not sacrifice spring length with a smaller tire, but,
you will also sacrifice ground clearance and make the wheel well gap WORSE than
it is...
Problem is that tires are built around some core sizes. 225/55-16,
245/45-17, 245/40-18 are all OE tire sizes, and all the same height. There is
not much available in widths with lower profiles. The only two sizes I can
come up with is a 245/45-16 and a 245/40-17. Both of these would be
exactly 1" less diameter than stock. So, if you want wider, you have to
larger diameter too (for the most part).
Also, the statement "gives better acceleration" is somewhat true, however,
it will also negatively affect gas mileage.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
[mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 8:32 PM
Yes, the gentleman originally requesting wanted to go smaller.
He
implied wanting smaller for looks, his likes, both wheel and tire.
The smaller tire gives better acceleration.
The smaller tire is less
expensive.
The smaller tire allows you to go wider w/o spacers.
The
smaller tire allows lowering w/o sacrificing spring length. The smaller rim is
stronger.
RIP
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 5:43 PM
>On the tire size. I like the 16inch on the NA, and of course you can
go
>lower than with 17in. There are no systems on the NA that get out of
>whack with somewhat smaller diameters. Your odometer will be
off
though.
Make one quick note here, going to a different wheel
diameter does not mean having a wrongly calibrated speedo. So long as
normal "plus sizes" are followed, the speedometer will be as accurate as it was
from the factory. Unless you are talking about going with a smaller
diameter tire as well, but I find that to be almost pointless, if not
entirely.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:21:29 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
Hi folks,
Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to remove and
replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)? Can you do this from the
wheel well, or do you have to remove the front bumper? How much time does
it take to remove the front bumper?
Thanks,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 23:41:31 -0500
From: "Nick Moore" <
nmoore33@purdue.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: How much should I expect to pay to have the tranny fluid changed?
Hi all,
I think it's time for a fluid change in my
transmission. I couldn't tell you when the last time it was changed, so I guess
it wouldn't hurt to have it done. It's a 92 stealth es, auto
transmission. How much should I expect to pay and where do you guys
recommend that I take it to have it done? Of course I wouldn't take it to
a dealer(because I don't have that kind of money), but are there any ideas of
good places to take it? Thanks
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:12:27 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
Too bad, but this is the zero tolerance story of our cars :-(
>So if there is a lesson to be learned hear it would be
>do your
60k tune up on time. Make sure your harmonic balancer is in
>perfect
running order and be very careful if you decide to go with
>aftermarket
camshaft pulleys or Underdrive pulley.
Well, an underdrive puppy has nothing to do with the timing belt slipping
or falling off. But of course whenever the timing belt must be touched one
should do this very carefully.
>I hear people complain on this thread about cost of parts
>and
where can I get cheap parts.
>there is no such thing of cheap parts for
this car
>and if you decide to buy lower quality parts you will
>get
what you pay for.
>I have one thing to say to those people.
>Don't
put off scheduled maintenance because of financial hardships or
>lack of
funds if you can not afford to maintenance your own vehicle
>park it, or
find a car that is within your means.
I highly agree. It's the same like people want to increase horsepower and
install an aquarium bleeder valve instead of a good electronic boost
controller with overboost prevention and feedback loop. If one cannot
afford the right parts for the car then he's driving the wrong car. And for
sure a 18 year old is not earning as much as we guys from the 60s but one
must know that if the car isn't prepared as it should the cost will become
exponentially higher.
>I have found a JDM motor with 30k miles for $1,495.00
>plus
$85.00 S/H I don't think this is a bad price.
>If any one on this thread
can beat this price let me know.
I personally think that this is a good price for a non-turbo engine.
>Any comments are welcome
Yes... don't go the cheap way anymore and avoid using FRAM filters !
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:14:53 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
Hey Ken, removal of the bumper is necessary at least it makes work much
much easier. If you just replace the cores with another stock ones, then it
takes about 4 hours for everything. If you throw in aftermarket ones, be
prepared to spend several days.
>Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to
remove
>and replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)? Can you do
this from
>the wheel well, or do you have to remove the front
bumper? How much
>time does it take to remove the front
bumper?
>
>Thanks,
>Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:19:27 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How much should I expect to pay to have the tranny fluid
changed?
This is a good question for an international list *gg*.
I'd take it to a dealer who knows the cars and can recommend a good oil
what they had good experience in these trannies. I paid around $80 at our
local dealer for tranny and diff oil change including work and fluids.
Please remember, you bought an expensive car so spend the money or sooner
or later something is going south :-(
At 23:41 26.02.2003 -0500, Nick Moore wrote:
>Hi
all,
> I think it's time for a fluid change in my
transmission. I couldn't
>tell you when the last time it was changed, so I
guess it wouldn't hurt
>to have it done. It's a 92 stealth es, auto
transmission. How much
>should I expect to pay and where do you
guys recommend that I take it
>to have it done? Of course I
wouldn't take it to a dealer(because I
>don't have that kind of money),
but are there any ideas of good places
>to take it?
Thanks
>
>Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 14:14:17 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
To gain access to the ICs from the wheel well you have removed the toughest
parts that are also required to remove the front bumper.
- - support front
and remove the wheels,
- - the front splash shield in the wheel well,
-
- and the undercovers below the ICs.
There are only a few more undercovers, some headlight/foglight stuff,
license plate bracket, and some bolts and the bumper cover slides off. Figure an
hour or so to remove the front bumper - there are a lot of screws/bolts. With
the cover off you can also easily upgrade your factory horn, and maybe move the
oil cooler to the front.
>From the above web page:
"The details of the front bumper removal
depend on the year and model of your car. Generally you perform the following
tasks, but please refer to your service manual for the details for your
particular model. Place the front end of the car on jack stands and remove the
front wheels. Remove some or all of the front undercover panels, including those
covering the active aero system if your car has that. Remove the splash shield
inside the fender in front of the wheel. Remove the fog lights. Remove the
license plate bracket. Remove the combination lights, and for 1994 and newer
models remove the headlights. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the front
bumper and slide the bumper cover off the car. I found it easier to work without
the bumper reinforcement bar installed so I removed it also. The reinforcement
bar is held on by 4 bolts on each side and only weighs about 12 pounds (my car).
The front bumper cover weighs about 18 pounds (my car)"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 26, 2003 9:21 PM
Hi folks,
Just wondering what you have to do and how much time it takes to remove and
replace the sidemount intercoolers ('91 VR4)? Can you do this from the
wheel well, or do you have to remove the front bumper? How much time does
it take to remove the front bumper?
Thanks,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:23:45 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: No compression in all 6 Cyl
I highly agree. It's the same like people want to increase horsepower and
install an aquarium bleeder valve instead of a good electronic boost
controller with overboost prevention and feedback loop. If one cannot
afford the right parts for the car then he's driving the wrong car. And for
sure a 18 year old is not earning as much as we guys from the 60s but one
must know that if the car isn't prepared as it should the cost will become
exponentially higher.
Two things - bleeders suck, but manual boost controllers are just as good
as an electronic boost controller.
The other - keep shopping, I purchased a JDM motor for $1350 shipped, and
have heard of them cheaper... A couple sites you might try are
Good luck...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:22:13 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: intercooler removal & replace
Quick comments for the 2nd gens:
1) You don't have to take off the wheels -
just let them hang after the car is
supported. This
should work for a
1st gen, but I haven't tried
personally.
2) Foglight removal is not necessary, even
though the manual seems to indicate that
it is. 2nd
gens only on this one.
Also, Jeff's right - the splashguards and active aero dam are the largest
pain, thanks to those @#$% little plastic clips with the Phillips screw in the
middle that is always covered with gunk and strips out. Once you have the
splashguards off, removing the bumper isn't that bad. The rest is just
about 40 bolts and clips that hold the bumper on. Don't forget the bolts
behind the corner lights that you access from the rear - go in from where the
splashguard was - there are 3 on each side on my '95.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:56:32 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Yokohama Tire Advertisement
Hey guys - You may get some adrenalin going watching this.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
February 27, 2003 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: intercooler removal &
replace
> Quick comments for the 2nd gens:
>
> 1) You
don't have to take off the wheels -
> just let
them hang after the car is
> supported. This
should work for a
> 1st gen, but I haven't tried
personally.
>
> 2) Foglight removal is not necessary,
even
> though the manual seems to indicate
that
> it is. 2nd gens only on this
one.
>
> Also, Jeff's right - the splashguards and active aero dam
are the
> largest pain, thanks to those @#$% little plastic clips with the
> Phillips screw in the middle that is always covered with gunk and
> strips out. Once you have the splashguards off, removing the
bumper
> isn't that bad. The rest is just
> about 40 bolts
and clips that hold the bumper on. Don't forget the
> bolts behind
the corner lights that you access from the rear - go in
> from where the
splashguard was - there are 3 on each side on my '95.
>
>
--Erik
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#91
**************************************
