Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, February 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 086
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Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 10:00:34 -500
From:
ukyo@speedfactory.netSubject:
Re: Team3S: Just installed my S-AFC
Donald -
About the only thing I would see you able to do is get slightly better MPG
by leaning out the low throttle a couple of %. I really don't think
there's any way to get more power from the stock injectors without using alky /
propane injection with them.
But, if you want a little better MPG, try dropping the low throttle
settings down 2% or so. Are you watching your A/F somehow (gauge, voltage
on S-AFC, etc)?
Overall it's probably best to leave the stock injectors at 0%
correction.
- -- Travis
'94 3000GT VR-4
'97 Eclipse GSX
'97 Supra TT
> I was just wondering if there was anything I could do with it while
> still having stock injectors to get a little more power safely? I'm
> waiting until I get my datalogger and EGT set up before I put in my
> bigger injectors. Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park,
> accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:12:52 -0500
From: Thor Holth <
thorholth@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Warranty Company says they're not covering it
Dustin and Joe:
Don't know about the warranty, choice of forum may be an issue too. The
warranty contract probably provides not only for the issues that Joe noted, but
also for a forum (arbitration or choice of jurisdiction) under which disputes
are to be handled.
I note that the car is not that old..... Perhaps a products liability
action directly against Mitsubishi or its sub-contractor that made the
piston. In Connecticut, we have a ten year statute of limitations on such
claims.
However, Joe, you are correct, Geoff should stick with his lawyer, who will
interpret the language of the CONTRACT under which the warranty is provided;
unfortunately, Dustin's relationship with Western is governed by the
contract he signed for insurance.
- --
Thor
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:02:17 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Warranty Company says they're not covering it
Thor wrote:
<<Perhaps a products liability
action
directly against Mitsubishi or its sub-contractor that made the
piston.>>
That would be difficult, timely and expensive, assuming the
jurisdiction that Dustin is in recognizes a cause of action for product
liability where the only damage is to the allegedly defective product itself and
the car was not totally destroyed as a result of the defect. Most jurisdictions
do not recognize such claims because they are, in essence, contract and warranty
claims. He should discuss this with his lawyers as well.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 16:50:19 -0500
From:
JEMlNlX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Question:
94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
I had purchased a salvage title 94 3000GT Base.
It was all ready to be
driven in perfect condition on February 4. The car is amazing, from
acceleration, I mean the thing just takes off at 60 mph!!!!! The handling is
also superb as I find myself hitting turns at 80mph. My questions are about the
lowering springs and mufflers. Which brand of lowering spring do you suggest I
use on my GT. Eibach, Intrax or any other suggestions. I would like to buy 16"
wheels and tires and lower the car. I think it'll look better if I had 16"
wheels as oppose to 17" wheels. I have seen some that looked a tad bit high.
Also, I wanted to replace my catalytic converter with a straight pipe and run 2
mufflers. I am considering BOMZ Evo N2 mufflers. 6" mufflers with 4" tips. What
do you think about this. Any suggestions in relation to other mufflers I should
use?
Thank You
Jason, NY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 14:50:16 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question: 94 Base - Lowering Springs & Mufflers?
> I had purchased a salvage title 94 3000GT Base. It was all ready
to
> be driven in perfect condition on February 4. The car is amazing,
from
> acceleration, I mean the thing just takes off at 60 mph!!!!! The
> handling is also superb as I find myself hitting turns at 80mph. My
> questions are about the lowering springs and mufflers. Which
brand of
> lowering spring do you suggest I use on my GT. Eibach,
Intrax or any
> other suggestions. I would like to buy 16" wheels
and tires and lower
> the car. I think it'll look better if I had 16"
wheels as oppose to
> 17" wheels. I have seen some that looked a tad bit
high.
> -----------------snip----------------->
> Thank
You
> Jason, NY
- ---------------------------->
I can't help you with the muffler question, other than to say that you will
not pass inspection without the cat. There is a nice replacement downpipe
and free-flow cat (combo) available on the 3SX Performance website that will net
you 15-20 HP *and* still be street-legal. I'll be putting it on my Stealth
NT sometime in the next several weeks, when they get them in stock.
They're at
www.3SXPerformance.com. I have
Eibachs on my car, which lower 1.5"F/1.3"R, and are a good height for street,
but not quite enough for the track. Intrax will give you a bit more, but
it's also an harder ride. What you say about wheels isn't so-- Wheels are
all the same height and size, if they are "plus-sized" properly - you use
low-profile tires to maintain size consistency. The theory and sizing
possibilities are on our website, in the FAQ pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm.
I run 16" at the track (but I'm getting 17's) and 18" wheels on the
street. You can see that even 18" wheels are *not* higher than stock in
this photo of mine (18" wheels, Eibachs, other
mods) here:
www.Team3S.com/THill.htm
Good luck!
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:32:38 -0800
From: "Michael, Sharon &
Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Less expensive tires & rims
I'm getting tired of paying $200 for tires, plus $300 for rims as a result
of driving on crappy city streets. I don't expect to get out and drive at
100+mph on a freeway any time soon. In the meantime I'd like to save 100+
some money and trouble. Any recommendations for cheap rims and tires I can
use in the pothole speckled, 60 mph (max) streets of a city? Heck, it
seems like I'd be better off putting on 4 spare tires.
Thanks, Michael 92 VR4, wasted (except for straight line acceleration!) in
metro Atlanta.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 23:54:24 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
"Thump" from under the hood
I just drove home and was doing about 75-80 in 5th gear when I heard a
"thump" from under the hood. I immediately hit the clutch and the engine
died producing the usual warning lights. I coasted about 1/2 mile and
popped the hood.
One of the pipes that attaches to the "Y" pipe had popped off. (I
assume it is the Y pipe. It is the pipe shaped like a Y on the left side
of the engine as you face it that heads into the plenum.) The pipe
connecting to the Y on the right side that comes across the front above the
radiator that I think comes from one of the intercoolers had popped off. I
pushed it back on and after checking to make sure the external belts were
intact, started it up. It started a touch rough and then corrected itself
nicely.
It sounds like it is running fine now. I hear some very mild sounds
that I didn't notice before as I rev it up (don't know how to describe), but I
think they may have been there all along and I am more attuned because I'm
listening harder.
Did I just have a loose hose that popped when I accelerated or should I be
looking for more problems? Would a hose popping off cause it to die like
that? The car is a '97 VR4 that just turned over 54K miles.
Thanks,
Ken Lovell
'97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 22:04:43 -0700
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: "Thump" from under the hood
Your car seems fine. If a turbo hose comes lose your car will
instantly die. Make sure all your clamps are tight and you should have no
problems. I have upgraded to T-bolt clamps coming to and off of the turbos after
having severe problems with them blowing off. Something to consider if you
are running higher than stock boost levels.
Gabe
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 19:11:06 +1300
From: "Doug" <
doug@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Car restoration & upgrades
Hello
I have recently purchased a 1990 GTO non turbo, to restore (currently road
worthy, just needs cleaning up really) as a new hobby. Being new to car
restoration and upgrades, is there any advise or web sites that can assist
me? Can I upgrade the non turbo to turbo and if so, is there information
available about what parts are required and how to do it? Before having the
vehicle painted, I intend to have the motor fully reconditioned so there is the
opportunity to modify the motor.
I was thinking of purchasing a newer GTO but I couldn't resist purchasing
this model due to it's appearance, black and very nice looking.
Thanks
Doug T
New Zealand
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 09:14:01 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Less expensive tires & rims
Mike, I would recommend that you get a set of 17x8.5" wheels and have
a set of 255/45 r17's mounted on them. This will give you marginally taller
sidewalls and should help prevent you from constantly eating wheels and
tires.
Russ F
CT
Glad the only city driving my car sees in on the back of a flattop carrier
:p
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden
[mailto:rhoden@easystreet.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 11:33
PM
I'm getting tired of paying $200 for tires, plus $300 for rims as a result
of driving on crappy city streets. I don't expect to get out and drive at
100+mph on a freeway any time soon. In the meantime I'd like to save 100+
some money and trouble. Any recommendations for cheap rims and tires I can
use in the pothole speckled, 60 mph (max) streets of a city? Heck, it
seems like I'd be better off putting on 4 spare tires.
Thanks, Michael 92 VR4, wasted (except for straight line acceleration!) in
metro Atlanta.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 07:50:51 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Less expensive tires & rims
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
Mike, I would recommend that you get a set of 17x8.5" wheels and have
> a set of 255/45 r17's mounted on them. This will give you marginally
> taller sidewalls and should help prevent you from constantly eating
> wheels and tires.
> Russ F, CT
> Glad the only
city driving my car sees in on the back of a flattop
> carrier.
:p
-
--------------------------->
And..., whatever size you use, do *not*
underinflate! A softer tire may be gentler on your back (and your car)
when you encounter potholes, but it also makes it easier to dent your
rims. If you're hitting those road defects "at speed", pump them up a
bit...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 08:02:42 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 94 Base - Lowering Springs
- -------{ forwarded -- message didn't get through... }
From:
"Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
-
------------------------------>
> Which brand of lowering spring do you suggest I use on my GT?
Eibach,
Intrax or any other suggestions?
Thank You
Jason,
NY
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Along these same lines, is it possible to get people whom use Eibachs or
Intrax springs, to send links to pics of their cars? It'd be nice to have some
pics to look at to get a side-by-side type of thing, to see if the difference in
Intrax is actually noticeable. Thanks.
-Brandon
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#86
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