Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 15 2003 Volume
02 : Number 053
----------------------------------------------------------------------
This is exactly the same symptom my son's VR4 had - it was a bent rim that
appeared to be in balance off the car, but when we replaced the rim using
the same tire - presto!- no more vibration at 70 mph. This vibration
was transmitted to the steering wheel.
Chuck Willis
I drove my car around on the highway today, and wow, it vibrates now!
Especially at 70mph it gets really bad. Under 70 and above 70 it's not
quite so bad.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:56:06 -0800
From: Donald Weberg <
Dweberg@Stillen.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Hello everyone!
My name is Don Weberg, and I'm the marketing coordinator for STILLEN in
Costa Mesa, California. With the help of Mr. Forrest, I am trying to
establish a Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
applications.
One of STILLEN's divisions, Brake-Pros, is the Exclusive North American
Distributor for AP Racing Brakes, and as such, we can offer some tremendous
deals on these superior brakes.
The AP system for 3000GT/Stealth cars is comprised of rigid 6-Piston
aluminum-alloy calipers, massive 13.5-inch cross-drilled and slotted
rotors, Goodridge stainless steel lines, high performance pads, and
aircraft aluminum mounting hardware. The system is a track-derived
design
and offers the best quality components which in turn offers superior
fade
resistance, positive pedal feel, late-braking confidence, and a great
look
all in one.
The Group Buy we're trying to work out is like this: The above AP
Racing
Brake system lists for $2,899. We're interested in gather
between one and
three people for a special price of $2,699 and we're going
to include
STILLEN's own Rear Sport Rotors, which are an excellent
alternative to
stock rotors, as they are cross-drilled offering further fade
resistance to
match the AP kit out front.
If this sounds at all interesting to you guys, please let me know. If
you
have questions, I'm more than happy to answer them and if I can't I'll
put
you in touch with someone here who can. Thanks for your time, and
I'll
hope to hear from you!!
Ciao For Now,
Don Weberg
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:10:07 -0500
From: "vijay" <
vijay@buydeal.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need help with Plug wires
Hi,
First of all, I'm glad to be the member of the list.
I'm a starter for mods, I've replaced 17" wheels and tires couple of days
ego, those are performance tyres, it vibrates after 70mph(as hell) so I'm
planning to change my wheels and tyres to 18" or higher.
last Saturday I
changed spark plugs by myself for the first time with the
help of Eric
Gross's practical experience, I appreciate eric for sharing
with others. As
I installed laser platinum plugs for $12 each, and even
replaced plug wires
which is of 7mm(brand-Belden), after successful
installation I found "MSD
8.5mm Spark Plug Wires" which says high
performance plugs, so please guide
me, should I change my plug wires or
keep 7mm. I couldn't decide.
(1995 3000GT NT RED)
Thanks
Vijay
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:24:03 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Don,
You might want to post this on 3si.org as well. I'd post it
under the
parts for sale section not the group buy section. Gets much
more
visibility that way.
Thanks for setting this up. Seems like a good deal.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:19:15 -0800
From: "Dean Benz" <
dbenz@vchillclimb.org>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Don, if this is the kit I think it is, it requires 18" wheels with good
spoke clearance.
I'm sure everyone would appreciate accurate fitment and wheel compatibility
information.
In addition, as this is a technical list, detailed specs on the calipers,
hats, and rotors would be appreciated as well.
If I am right, about size, then for the racers out there, this means 18"
race rubber which is only available in limited fitments at rather high
costs.
Perhaps with your internal contacts, you could convince them to offer a 17"
solution, as well as a choice of rotors besides the drilled & slotted.
Some of us prefer the less crack prone flat, or slotted rotors, even
though they don't look as pretty.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:37:09 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Don,
I've questioned Stillen about rotor size before and was not
provided
with many options besides the 13.5" kit. Dean brings up an
excellent
point. Even with 18s (stock), it is a very tight fit (less
than 2mm of
clearance between stock wheels). In fact, with RPO1s,
there's less than
1mm of clearance. TE37s fit a bit better (several
mms of clearance).
I might be able to do some homework for you since I have access to
several cars that currently have the kit on them. this weekend, I
might
be able to get Terry to come by GTPRO and help me swap some wheels to
see exactly what does and does not fit.
Damon
Dean Benz wrote:
> Don, if this is the kit I think it is, it requires 18" wheels with
> good spoke clearance.
>
> I'm sure everyone would
appreciate accurate fitment and wheel
> compatibility
information.
>
> In addition, as this is a technical list, detailed
specs on the
> calipers, hats, and rotors would be appreciated as
well.
>
> If I am right, about size, then for the racers out there,
this means
> 18" race rubber which is only available in limited fitments
at rather
> high costs.
>
> Perhaps with your internal
contacts, you could convince them to offer
> a 17" solution, as well as a
choice of rotors besides the drilled &
> slotted. Some of us prefer
the less crack prone flat, or slotted
> rotors, even though they don't
look as pretty.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 13:36:28 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
If any of the listers could forward my email onto the racers list I would
be appreciative.
There are quite few "big brake" kits that fit under 17" wheels this kit
does not fit under the stock 2G 17's only because those wheels need about
3MM more offset. Darren (Flash) was kind enough to post a link last
year that showed how much the calipers rubbed against the inner rim lip.
The big trick is to get a set of wheels with a 40MM or better yet a 38mm
offset and you will be fine. A prime candidate would be the enkei
RT6's
I also have quite bit of experience after looking a Brian Bocheneck's
monster up close last summer. Now his car is how to build our ladies
to hunt at a Road course :)
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 (Uhhh Russ is it supposed to belch smoke and fire like that?
I don't know but it looks damn mean)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 13:04:53 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Now, if somebody comes back and gives some reason it is impossible or
unrealistic to get the AP Racing 14" kit (they told ME that last year),
those interested can write me and I can give you some info on how to
(hopefully still, this was 10 months ago I researched this) get the14" AP kit
for $2245.75...as long as Stillen or somebody didn't/doesn't somehow put
the hammer down on good old Freedom USA Free Market Competition. Of
course prices may have gone up over the last year etc. I had enquired as
to the cost of replacement rotors, and they were $339.40 each + $50 each
crossdrilling if desired. The supplier said he could likely get the discs
made here in USA for $200-225.
Jack T.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:02:35 -0800
From: Donald Weberg <
Dweberg@Stillen.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AP Racing sizes
Hey guys
To answer some sizing Q's, here is what R&D offered up....
17-inch wheels required with minimum pad height clearance of
1.940"=dimension A and an inner diameter clearance of 15.50"
This doesn't include the stock wheel because of lack of pad height
clearance. (Caliper will conflict with wheel spokes and inner diameter
is
not enough)
For more technically inclined questions and answers, give Terry Henderson
an email at
terryh@brake-pros.com, or call him at
714.540.5566 ext. 132.
Coolio!
------------------------------
I recently went through the same thing with my '92 VR4, as the clunk seemed
to get worse and very noticeable over the past year. My car is a daily
driver with 153K miles on it, and also races at the dragstrip several
times a year.
First, I replaced the driveshaft with a Dynotech 2-piece metal-matrix
shaft. This shaft required using one of the old carrier bearings, which I
replaced with a new one. This shaft also included all new U-joints. The
clunk seemed a little better after the install, but also seemed to be
coming more from the rear now. At this point, I decided not to race my car
anymore at the dragstrip until I could find out why the drivetrain was
clunking.
Second, I replaced the rear differential with a newer used unit. The newer
unit had not been rebuilt, but did seem to have less play in the pinion
gear than the one I removed from my car. After the installation, the clunk
was better, but still there, and seemed to be coming more from the center
and front areas of the car.Even though there was still significant clunk, I
decided to start dragracing again and had no problems.
Third, I removed the transfer case (while doing a clutch replacement), and
examined the tranny output shaft carefully. It was well worn, but not
unusable yet. But I believe that's probably a source of some of the
drivetrain clunk.
Fourth, I replaced the rear motor mount, the one that's closest to the
firewall. I did this because my datalogger has been recording unusually
high, and sometimes erratic, knock sums, presumably false knock. The old
mount was shot, and since the installation, I immediately noticed a huge
reduction in drivetrain clunk. It's almost gone. I haven't datalogged my
car again yet, but I'd be willing to bet my knock problem is gone
too.
Last, I took my car in today for the transfer case re-call service. They
inspected my transfer case, replace the seals, put new fluid in it, and
re-installed it. Driving from the dealership, I noticed seemingly more
clunk than when I took the car in. I'm sure they replaced my Redline fluid
with stock-type fluid, but I don't know why that would make a difference in the
clunk factor. So I'm going to drive the car a little more before I take it
back to the dealer and complain.
Jeff W.
'92 VR4
Belleville, MI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:32:15 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
I see your email reference, Russell, and that AP Kit was attached to a
friend's first gen VR-4 up in your neck of the woods (near Danbury, CT)
with Spyder VR4 17" wheels. I can dig up that video again of the
view from where the inside chrome of the wheels rubs slightly on the outside of
the AP 6-piston caliper. One revolution and the thickness of chrome
wore away so no more rubbing. There was no spacer on the hub either.
That's as far as my knowledge takes me but I forget what size the rotor
was. That kit was purchased about a year and a half ago to a year
ago.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Tuesday,
January 14, 2003 13:36
If any of the listers could forward my email onto the racers list I would
be appreciative.
There are quite few "big brake" kits that fit under 17" wheels this kit
does not fit under the stock 2G 17's only because those wheels need about
3MM more offset. Darren (Flash) was kind enough to post a link last
year that showed how much the calipers rubbed against the inner rim lip.
The big trick is to get a set of wheels with a 40MM or better yet a 38mm
offset and you will be fine. A prime candidate would be the enkei
RT6's
I also have quite bit of experience after looking a Brian Bocheneck's
monster up close last summer. Now his car is how to build our ladies
to hunt at a Road course :)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:03:42 -0800
From: Donald Weberg <
Dweberg@Stillen.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
In response to this, Terry H. informs us all that:
plus the UK kit is in pounds, there is air freight to be paid, broker fees
to be paid, customs fees to be paid, etc, etc. that equals a lot more than
our price. Terry Henderson
terryh@stillen.com Brake Pros 3176
Airway Ave. Costa Mesa CA 92626 800-576-2131Ext. 132 714-540-9154
Ext. 169
HE ALSO SAYS:
the kit is 343mm not 355mm rotor.
Terry Henderson
terryh@stillen.comBrake Pros
3176
Airway Ave.
Costa Mesa CA 92626
800-576-2131Ext.
132
714-540-9154 Ext. 169
714-540-1826 Fax
Don Weberg
Stillen marketing coordinator
Now, if somebody comes back and gives some reason it is impossible or
unrealistic to get the AP Racing 14" kit (they told ME that last year),
those interested can write me and I can give you some info on how to
(hopefully still, this was 10 months ago I researched this) get the14" AP kit
for $2245.75...as long as Stillen or somebody didn't/doesn't somehow put
the hammer down on good old Freedom USA Free Market Competition. Of
course prices may have gone up over the last year etc. I had enquired as
to the cost of replacement rotors, and they were $339.40 each + $50 each
crossdrilling if desired. The supplier said he could likely get the discs
made here in USA for $200-225.
Jack T.
------------------------------
Thanks, but I already have my Big Reds up front.
If you guys come up
with an improvement for the rear brakes, I'd be interested. Got a big
caliper that works back there?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 w/Porsche Big Red calipers, BFG SS lines,
Motul, Carbotech pads
>The Group Buy we're trying to work out is like this: The above AP
>Racing Brake system lists for $2,899. We're interested in
gather
>between one and three people for a special price of $2,699
and
>we're going to include STILLEN's own Rear Sport Rotors, which
are
>an excellent alternative to stock rotors, as they
are
>cross-drilled offering further fade resistance to match the
>AP
kit out front.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:17:10 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help with Plug wires
Perhaps the wheels are not centered? There is no reason for vibration if
they are balanced.
If you can take the 7mm wires back fine, otherwise wait for a year or two
before replacing them. With the NT you really are not going to stress the
wires much, more aging effect and looks determine what you need.
I changed to Magnecor 8.5 at 30K when I changed plugs. I was planning for
NOS, but then got into road courses and lost interest in drags. Magnecors
are holding up great after several years.
Kurt 96 NT
- -----Original Message-----
From: vijay [mailto:vijay@buydeal.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 9:10 AM
Hi,
First of all, I'm glad to be the member of the list.
I'm a starter for mods, I've replaced 17" wheels and tires couple of days
ego, those are performance tyres, it vibrates after 70mph(as hell) so I'm
planning to change my wheels and tyres to 18" or higher.
last Saturday I
changed spark plugs by myself for the first time with the
help of Eric
Gross's practical experience, I appreciate eric for sharing
with others. As I installed laser platinum plugs for $12 each, and even
replaced plug wires which is of 7mm(brand-Belden), after successful
installation I found "MSD 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires" which says high
performance plugs, so please guide me, should I change my plug wires or
keep 7mm. I couldn't decide.
(1995 3000GT NT RED)
Thanks
Vijay
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:21:29 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
5mm and 7mm spacers should work too, if only the offset is a concern.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:21:09 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
I made a very good experience with the Bremsa rotors in the rear
(crossdrilled slotted) together with Pagid Orange and of course the second
gen brakes. Breaking became much more neutral what resulted in a later
braking point before the turn. I can't compare with other makes as I was
pretty happy with them.
------------------------------
At 09:21 PM 1/14/03 +0100, Roger Gerl wrote:
>I made a very good
experience with the Bremsa rotors in the rear
>(crossdrilled slotted)
together with Pagid Orange and of course the
>second gen brakes.
I've tried all sorts of pads in the rear, from Porterfield R4 to R4S to
stockers, and have seen absolutely no difference in performance. Quite a
bit in longevity, of course, because the stock pads don't last very long
at all. The race pads squeak, creak, and dust a lot, but there's no
appreciable difference in performance. I've not changed rotors because I have
yet to wear one down, after four years of running.
It just seems to me that not much happens in the back, so without a larger
caliper and pad, we'll never improve braking back there. Now, if we could
just move the big 2nd gen front calipers to the rear...
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 16:06:38 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Hey everyone - here is the installation I did on a friends first gen VR-4
in August 2001. I took video of the process and extracted these
pictures from that video. Here is shown the 13.5" AP rotor, 6-piston
AP caliper, and 17" Spyder VR4 wheels. I also have pictures comparing the
stock first gen to AP calipers, brake pads, and rotors on this page too
(with a tape measure giving some ideas of the sizes).
The video actually has the rubbing sound of the chrome on the inside of the
wheel contacting the caliper but after one pass this was worn off and
presto - no more rubbing. The clearance would be quite small (both
the clearance from the outside of the caliper to the inside of the wheel as
well as the face of the caliper to the inside of the spokes) but as far as
I could tell - the spacing toward the spokes was similar to stock or the
Big Reds offer. The clearance between the caliper and the inside
diameter of the wheel though is less since the rotor is obviously a larger
diameter.
Let me know what other questions I can help clarify.
P.S. IMHO - I've ridden in the car at Watkins Glen and it will absolutely
stomp all over a similar car with "just" Big Reds. There is no
question in my mind. After 1.5 hard days of stomping on the brakes I
don't believe we even had to bleed the brake fluid. These things are
MASSIVE. End of story.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dean Benz
Sent: Tuesday, January
14, 2003 13:19
Don, if this is the kit I think it is, it requires 18" wheels with good
spoke clearance.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 13:16:07 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
Maybe it's the brake bias. I converted my 1st gen to 2nd gen rears
and
man, did I feel a difference. Originally, the F-40s up front were
doing
ALL of the work, not it feels like it's a little too much biased to
the
rear.
anyone know if there's a difference in part #s? Caps anyone?
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 16:32:44 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Group Buy for AP Racing Brakes for 3000GT/Stealth
To anyone interested MOVIT does offer a rear brake upgrade I
currently do not know the specifications (rotor diameter, thickness,
etc...). Go to ultimategarage.com and then to MOVIT brakes, they
list applications and specs.
For some reason they are on the buy list for my baby if the funds are
available.......
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Due to a munched record at the NIC for my host record of
www.speedtoys.com, there are
occasional Email burps that I cant control.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:47:37 -0500 (EST)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly
Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: rotten egg smell?! Help!
I have a 1994 3000GT NA. This car has the SL motor, even though it is not
an SL. I have 125,000 miles on the car. I noticed a horribly strong rotten
egg smell for the first time while driving the car on Sunday. I stopped at
a stop sign and I smelled it and it only lasted for about a minute. I
didn't notice any smell at all yesterday. This morning, I started the car to let
it warm up for about 10 minutes before I left for my 40 minute commute. I
smelled the rotten egg smell when I got within 10 feet of the car. What is
this? If I don't fix it immediately (whatever it is?), will it get worse?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:48:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rotten egg smell?! Help!
The cat. convertor..its purging sulphur..sometimes different fuels have
high(er) sulphur content than others.
------------------------------
Sounds like the catalytic converter went south.
Time for a replacement,
Kim. Or a test pipe to get rid of it.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:22:31 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: rotten egg smell?! Help!
I have a 96 NA complete exhaust with 25K miles.
$50 if you happen to be
near Moreno Valley, CA.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:27:31 EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: rotten egg smell?! Help!
I to have gotten that rotten smell, and while it is possible that it is the
cat, it can also be the type of gas you use.
I always used Amoco gas until all the stations near me turned to
exxon.
While using that gas this winter the smell started to come. I
switched back
to amoco and the smell was gone. Perhaps it is the
"winterizing" chemicals
put into the gas that can cause this?
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:54:14 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Various Gauge Sending Unit Installation Pictures and Instructions
I finally got a chance to make a web page for my sensor installation
pictures.
Here are the direct links to the Oil Pressure & Temperature, Water
Temperature, and Fuel Pressure Sensor installation web pages:
------------------------------
I'm looking to have the clutch in my '92 Stealth Twin Turbo replaced soon
and have been calling the Dodge and Mitsu dealers around St. Louis.
I've found that Mitsu can save me a lot on parts. Labor costs are
about the same. Can anyone provide feedback as to why I should or
shouldn't have my clutch replaced by the Mitsu dealer? I'm not set
on having a dealer's service dept. do the work by I figure it's a
complicated process and would rather have someone with experience do the work
(bad assumption?). What other pitfalls should I watch for in having
this operation done? Does $1300 - $1400 for parts and labor sound
reasonable?
Thanks
Terry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:58:23 -0500
From: "vze49hff" <
vze49hff@verizon.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Vacuum routing and misc.
Hello, my name is Brian. I'm new here and I have just recently bought a
1991 VR-4 Which we don't know all that much about yet...We had to replace
the rod bearings with Clevite 77's that was no problem, but neither
my friend or myself have ever played with one...so we're not familiar with
any of the exact specs as far as fuel pressure, vacuum, boost, etc.
We have found a mystery hose hanging down about a few inches left and a few
inches below the intake on the plenum and everything appears to be fine,
but I'd like to find out what it is for...does anyone have a vacuum
routing diagram or at least an idea as to what this hose goes to? It's
about 1/2 inch thick with about a 1/4 inch hole if that helps...Today was
the first time in 2 weeks that we've started the car(just began fixing it
because the motor rapped real bad and it's leaking oil like crazy from the
crank seal) the motor sounds great now except for that damn ticking, and
we're doing the seal tomorrow. But according to the boost gauge when we
first started it up today it was at like 15-18 lbs. vacuum@ about
1700-1800RPM when it was idling cold, we couldn't run it long enough to
heat it up cuz of the leak...but is that vacuum normal-good-bad??
And we don't really know what the best performance parts for this car
are...plugs-wires-intake-fuel pump-down pipe-brakes and pads-which fluids
to use in it--If anyone could help out with any that stuff too, it would
be GREAT! -- P.S. my friend has been bugging me mostly about the plugs
he insists on Denso Iridium what do you guys think?
Thanks for any help you can offer!!
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 23:26:04 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Need new clutch: Mitsu or Dodge?
That assumption in and of itself isn't a bad one. The problem is thinking
that satan's service department is someone with experience with these
cars. If it were a neon or a galant, maybe. Not a vr4/tt. You're likely to
have one of those guys get the car up on a lift, scratch the empty space
between his ears and go "is that a rear differential I see back there?".
A stock clutch kit costs ~300. That's the friction disc, pressure plate and
throwout bearing (me thinks, at least...). I remember being quoted just
under 1000 by the dealer (parts + labor).
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:38:27 -0800 (PST)
From: MARC <
msa916@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: NEED
A QUICK PART NUMBER?
Hi,
I was hoping someone might be able to help me;
I
am looking for a part number for the clear plastic
cover that covers the
speedo, tachometer, and gas
gauge. It’s for a 1994 3000gt SL
VIN
ja3am64j3ry038883. I have the caps program, but I
cannot find
the cdr I copied it on.
Thanks for the help,
Marc
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:58:19 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED A QUICK PART NUMBER?
Looks like it's MB849371 --- glass combination meter
With a little luck they don't sell it separately !!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 00:41:25 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need a 99 front bumper
Where can I get a cheap from the factory 99 front bumper?
I was thinking
Rockville mitsu? (mitsupartsdirect.com)
Could anyone give me the PIN for it
so I can get a price check? I'm on dialup, so it would take days for me to
download CAPS :( Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents
cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 02:59:27 -0700
From: Stephanie & David Walker
<
scba@centurytel.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shipping a 3000GT
Can anyone recommend a specific trucking or shipping company to transport a
3000GT across country? I'd prefer a closed shipping truck. The trip will
be from Maryland to Montana. I checked the archives but found no names. It
would be nice to deal with a reputable shipper that another team3s member
has used.
Also, can anyone recommend a mitsu dealer or mechanic in Montana or
Washington? Thanks. David W
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 04:38:05 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a 99 front bumper
HI, Donald
God luck in your search
Best wishes, Steve
Where can I get a cheap from the factory 99 front bumper?
I was thinking
Rockville mitsu? (mitsupartsdirect.com)
Could anyone give me the PIN for it
so I can get a price check? I'm on dialup, so it would take days for me to
download CAPS :( Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents
cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 04:51:33 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a 99 front bumper
HI, Donald
Sorry the last link does not work.
Click the link below and it will take
you
were you need to go.
Just click Parts catalog on the left
and inter your info and away you
go.
There price on the front bumper is 395.67 + S/H
Have Fun
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 05:05:14 -0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: crank angle sensor
Thanks for all the info from those of you that
replied.
I have ordered the parts necessary to put the car back together. After a
few tests I will know if I have any bent parts. If I don't have any damage
I will be one of the lucky few. I will keep the group posted.
Steve......
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve
Sent: Friday, January 10,
2003 7:20 PM
Hello Group
This is my dilemma. I have a 1995 3000GT SL.
The harmonic dampeners
outer ring walked on me.
In doing this it broke the P/S Belt.
The P/S Belt
got raped around the crank
and in doing so it wore a hole in the
lower
timing cover. This is where it gets good.
Parts of the belt were
moving around inside
the timing cover, and caused the motor to die.
After
the removal of the timing covers & Crank pulley
I saw that the crank
angle ring and the crank angle sensor
were damaged. One ear or the crank
angle ring was bent over causing it to hit the crank angle sensor. This is
my question. In my examination to the timing, it appears that the value
train
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:20:25 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need new clutch: Mitsu or Dodge?
I'm not so sure that the Mitsu dealer, or a Dodge dealer for that matter,
has any more experience changing a clutch in a Stealth or 3000GT than you
or I do. But I suppose that, unless you have the time to do it
yourself, you're stuck.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Terry Schilling
[mailto:t.d.schilling@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:05
PM
I'm looking to have the clutch in my '92 Stealth Twin Turbo replaced soon
and have been calling the Dodge and Mitsu dealers around St. Louis. I've
found that Mitsu can save me a lot on parts. Labor costs are about
the same. Can anyone provide feedback as to why I should or shouldn't have
my clutch replaced by the Mitsu dealer? I'm not set on having a
dealer's service dept. do the work by I figure it's a complicated process
and would rather have someone with experience do the work (bad
assumption?). What other pitfalls should I watch for in having this
operation done? Does $1300 - $1400 for parts and labor sound
reasonable?
Thanks
Terry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:25:04 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NEED A QUICK PART NUMBER?
Looks like it's just around $10 from partznet.
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 12:58 AM
Looks like it's MB849371 --- glass combination meter
With a little luck they don't sell it separately !!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:31:01 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a 99 front bumper
Part No. MR439752 (Front Bumper, Bumper & Components, 1999, Bumper
Cover, Bumper Cover ) is around $400 on partznet.com.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 2:41
AM
Where can I get a cheap from the factory 99 front bumper?
I was thinking
Rockville mitsu? (mitsupartsdirect.com)
Could anyone give me the PIN for it
so I can get a price check? I'm on dialup, so it would take days for me to
download CAPS :( Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents
cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 07:52:04 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Recall notice came
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does
>
not understand this format, some or all of this message
> may not be
legible.
Well my recall notice came from Chrysler today for my 92 Stealth. The
transfer case is not leaking at all. Are you folks bringing the car
in if the case is dry? Should I leave well enough alone and keep an
eye on it or bring it in? Chip 92 RT/tt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 06:54:41 -0800 (PST)
From: BRANDY BLASOR <
brandyblasor@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Recall notice came all models?
I have a 92 R/T, is the recall just for turbo models?
- --- Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net> wrote:
>
Well my recall notice came from Chrysler today for
> my 92 Stealth.
The
> transfer case is not leaking at all. Are you folks
>
bringing the car in if
> the case is dry? Should I leave well enough
alone
> and keep an eye on it or
> bring it in?
> Chip
>
92 RT/tt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:59:48 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Recall notice came all models?
Just the turbos, since the other models don't have a transfer case.
- -----Original Message-----
From: BRANDY BLASOR
[mailto:brandyblasor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 9:55
AM
I have a 92 R/T, is the recall just for turbo models?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 07:17:13 -0800
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Help Cold=starts/runs great, Warm=intermittent starts/dies or starts+run
to 2K and returns to normal
Hi Everyone,
This one is real puzzling. Here is the detailed version:
92 Dodge
TT
Old: always started and ran normally cold, warm, and hot
Now: When Cold it starts and runs like normal, but when warm (after some
amount of time?) when I shut it off and go to restart it, sometimes it
fires and then dies. If the minute it fires, you take the rpm up to like
2K for a couple of seconds, and let off, it idles fine and runs great
(like it never had the start problem). If you keep on trying to start it
normally without using the accelerator pedal trick, it seems to make it
more difficult to get it going to the higher rpm, but it still will run
normally once it gets there and seems to "clear" itself (lame I know).
I have swapped ECUs (with my VR-4's) and there is no difference, (both ECUs
have already had the caps changed out), so it isn't that. There is no CE
light, and the front three plugs look great. I've searched Team3S and 3Si
and found no similar problem description. I have the service manuals and
have been pouring through the MFI section - and on page 13A-25 there is a page
titled "check chart classified by problem symptoms" and the second column
is titled "Fires up and Dies, Hard Starting" - which sure sounds like my
problem under warm/hot conditions, I am following that list, but also am
checking anything I can think of. I was never trained in fuel injection, so I'm
book learning - so this is a real tough one.
Here's what I've checked/tried:
Swapped ECUs - same
FPR Solenoid Operation and Electronically
checks
Fuel Pump works fine (as it runs great once it gets going) - don't
have a fuel pressure gauge setup so I then did the: Fuel pump relay bypass
(eliminates the resistor on idle so voltage increase to pump at idle) -
thanks Jeff Lucius for all the great info Changed out the Fuel Filter (to
eliminate this from being a potential pressure restriction) Cleaned the
ISC (tested out fine electronically BTW), Cleaned the BIS screw (pretty
dirty) and reset idle.
I thought I was making progress, but it happened late yesterday again. God,
I hate intermittent problems - Starts fine goes to about 1300 to get going
then drops to idle, it normally does this to about 700-800 but it keeps
going to about 500 and you can tell it's not happy there, so it drops to
zero - then it is easy to get idling using the accelerator, but it is tough to
get it going (like it's loaded up) once you do it's ok. The front plugs
still show no sign of being flooded. Even after this it runs like it
never had the problem.
Anyone have any ideas please e-mail me directly too at
piercera@pacbell.net - the car drives
great and operates fine except for this intermittent warm start
problem. Thanks for all your help
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:25:04 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need a 99 front bumper
I think I paid about $350 for my '99 front bumper...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Looks like I need motor mounts.
Should I replace all four? I can see that the top front one is bad, but I
can't tell with the rest. Evidence indicates that the motor is moving
around pretty good. I have 80,000 miles...do yez think all four are
bad?
Stock or 3SX? I run the car on open tracks.
Any good deals around these
days?
What's the price for stockers?
All advice welcome.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:46:17 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help on motor mounts
Rich I would recommend the 3SX mounts, everything I have heard from anyone
that has them is that they are a good deal and a hella lot cheaper than
stockers.......
Speaking of which I should call Steve and spend some more money this week
;)
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#53
**************************************