Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, October 3
2002 Volume 01 : Number 962
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 12:40:09 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
Thanks Erik. It's time for a new BOV.
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 12:51:56 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: Q
on hood scoops
Every so often I see cars with gigantic hood scoops. Most of the time not
S/3's but there are a few out there. Now I know the scoops are for cooling, but
I have also seen scoops directly hooked up to the air intake like the SS
Camaro. (Chevy claims that at 60mph that adds 23hp).
Ether way, the question is: when its raining, doesn't all that water go
into the intake? I guess its like water injection :) But seriously, too much
water cant be good ether and I would imagine that a wet air filter would
have some horrid flow rates. Do cars with intake scoops have some way of keeping
water out?
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 13:19:07 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
The real issue is hydrostatic lock-up. Get enough water in the scoop &
your engine will either stop dead AND or break something. Water does NOT
compress. I know a guy that did this several months ago with a ford 302 hi
performance in a Tbird, he had an intake low in the grill and hit a flooded wash
crossing the highway. One piston holed and the bottom end spun. My nephew
has the motor, it's NOT in good shape. I want to put a scoop on the right strut
blister in my 94SL for the HP increase but I haven't figured out a
reliable water trap yet. When it rains here in AZ it hammers. If you come up
with a reliable water trap I'll be VERY interested.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 16:38:53 -0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Torque wrench
Hopefully not off topic, but flame me if so, and sorry.
A lot of these for sale seem to be accurate +/1 4%. Good enough for
suspension work? Do I even need to bother? I'm not going to be breaking down
motors anytime soon.
Brands to avoid? Craftsman OK? Etc etc.
Thx
Andre
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 13:51:00 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Q on hood scoops
I know that AEM makes a valve. I believe it's called the air bypass valve?
Maybe water bypass valve. Whatever it's called, you can try doing a search on
that and see what comes up... see if it's the right diameter etc.
Good luck,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
east coast rust mod
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 13:52:22 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Q on hood scoops
I know that AEM makes a valve. I believe it's called the air bypass valve?
Maybe water bypass valve. Whatever it's called, you can try doing a search on
that and see what comes up... see if it's the right diameter etc.
Good luck,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
east coast rust mod
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 14:06:03 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Torque wrench
Andre...
Doesn't seem off topic to me...a torque wrench is a valuable piece of
equipment for those of us who do some (or all) of our own work. Your message
contains what I believe is a typo, I think you're asking if +/- 4% is
adequate, it appears as if you wrote +14%. Assuming we're talking about four
percent, I'd say you're well within the tolerances of most torque
wrenches. Note that there was a recent thread on "click type" wrenches versus
the "pointer style". The claim (as I recall) is that click type are often
well outside their own specs. I would maintain that a pointer, based on the
tensile strength of it's materials, could be equally out of calibration.
Either way, you're "always"" going to be safe with Craftsman, SK Wayne,
Husky, etc., the same tools you find in the shops where people make their
living doing this work. If you're really concerned about accuracy, you
could have the click type calibrated, I'm not sure how you'd have the pointer
style adjusted (unless the marked plate is adjustable). Most people would
like to be within +/- 1%, but I believe +/- 5% is adequate for what most of us
would be doing, including head bolts. Having tore down and built up
several Detroit Iron blocks in the "old days", I'd say it's most important that
everything is the same torque, even if it were 5 foot pounds off
spec.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andre Cerri
[mailto:cerri@intersystems.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 1:39
PM
Subject: Team3S: Torque wrench
Hopefully not off topic, but flame me if so, and sorry.
A lot of these for sale seem to be accurate +/1 4%. Good enough for
suspension work? Do I even need to bother? I'm not going to be breaking down
motors anytime soon.
Brands to avoid? Craftsman OK? Etc etc.
Thx
Andre
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 14:16:06 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Yeah, AEM makes something like that. It's a valve you put in your
intake pipe upstream of the air filter. If there is too much vacuum in the
tube (like there would be if the air filter were submerged in water!), the
valve opens and air is sucked in through the valve from the engine bay.
A turbo magazine did an interesting test on it. They put a long,
flexible intake tube on the car with the air filter on the end and the bypass
valve halfway up the tube. They started the car, and then submerged
the air filter in a tank of water! Engine kept running and no water got
sucked in.
:)
Here's the website - the bypass valve is about halfway down.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 1:52
PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
>
> I know that
AEM makes a valve. I believe it's called the air
> bypass valve?
>
Maybe water bypass valve. Whatever it's called, you can try
> doing a
search
> on that and see what comes up... see if it's the right diameter
etc.
>
> Good luck,
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
>
east coast rust mod
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 14:24:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Aluminum Wheels
I have 4 stock 16" wheels from my prior 1995 3000GT SL
that I would like
to sell. There are a few rubs on two
of them.
Is there a way to
grind/polish these down to look
better prior to listing em for sale?
What
would you expect value on them to be, either
through our club or if I listed
em on Ebay?
Thanx!
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 17:33:11 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
But they don't have an application for the 3000gt. Would the eclipse
v6 model work? Any ideas?
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002
5:16 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Yeah, AEM makes something like that. It's a valve you put in your
intake pipe upstream of the air filter. If there is too much vacuum in the
tube (like there would be if the air filter were submerged in water!), the
valve opens and air is sucked in through the valve from the engine bay.
A turbo magazine did an interesting test on it. They put a long,
flexible intake tube on the car with the air filter on the end and the bypass
valve halfway up the tube. They started the car, and then submerged
the air filter in a tank of water! Engine kept running and no water got
sucked in.
:)
Here's the website - the bypass valve is about halfway down.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 14:46:29 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
There are a couple of problems with the bypass valve for our
application. First it relies partly on gravity to create the vacuum. It's
designed to fit inside AEM's cold air intakes which is why there is an
application for the 3G Eclipse (I had one on my old 2000 Eclipse GT). These
intakes place the filter low to the ground and thus there is a substantial
uphill climb for the water to make it into the engine. It generates quite
a vacuum in the intake tube, enough to open a valve. Our air filters are
high up relative to the throttle body/plenum so I'm hypothesizing that not
enough vacuum would be created to open the valve. Second... There's not
many places to plumb the thing in. :)
James Mutton (vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joshua G. Prince
[mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 2:33
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
But they don't have an application for the 3000gt. Would the eclipse
v6 model work? Any ideas?
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002
5:16 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Yeah, AEM makes something like that. It's a valve you put in your
intake pipe upstream of the air filter. If there is too much vacuum in the
tube (like there would be if the air filter were submerged in water!), the
valve opens and air is sucked in through the valve from the engine bay.
A turbo magazine did an interesting test on it. They put a long,
flexible intake tube on the car with the air filter on the end and the bypass
valve halfway up the tube. They started the car, and then submerged
the air filter in a tank of water! Engine kept running and no water got
sucked in.
:)
Here's the website - the bypass valve is about halfway down.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 14:56:04 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
This is an issue for those of us with NA cars (and drool reading all the
posts from you turbo-ed guys) a decent ram setup would go a long ways coupled
with the legal air box mods available. Thanks for the input James, the
gravity issue is a serious one for our low slung cars with not much room under
the hood. I am willing (and capable) to manufacture just about anything to
replace my stock air box and intake system if I can squeeze in the K&N
filter or the other one mentioned for NA's and a scoop system that won't
give my engine water indigestion.
Pete Rivenburg
Privenburg@firstam.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:09:39 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
What I want is to make my own fiberglass hood with a ram scoop hooked up to
my intake piping. I am not concerned about water puddles deep enough to
swallow my car. If I hit something like that, I likely have bigger
problems to think about. What I am concerned about is running the car on the
streets here in the Seattle area where it rains 9 months out of the year.
I'm sure a few rain drops wont hurt it too much, may even do some good like
water injection, but I am concerned about the my K&N cone filter
getting water on it and not being able to pass air through. I guess if it really
pours too much water in the intake will become a problem too....
Now looking at pictures, the SS Camaro scoop is forward facing. Also those
hot rod cars with their carbs sticking out of the hood have their intake
holes faced forward too. There has got to be a way to keep a forward
facing scoop and somehow get the water out.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: James Mutton
Sent: Wednesday,
October 02, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
There are a couple of problems with the bypass valve for our
application. First it relies partly on gravity to create the vacuum. It's
designed to fit inside AEM's cold air intakes which is why there is an
application for the 3G Eclipse (I had one on my old 2000 Eclipse GT). These
intakes place the filter low to the ground and thus there is a substantial
uphill climb for the water to make it into the engine. It generates quite
a vacuum in the intake tube, enough to open a valve. Our air filters are
high up relative to the throttle body/plenum so I'm hypothesizing that not
enough vacuum would be created to open the valve. Second... There's not
many places to plumb the thing in. :)
James Mutton (vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:36:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
The warmer air is, the more water it can hold. See
I believe the air cleaner on the SS Camaro is on top
of the
engine. It's warmer there than outside where
it is raining. The
water evaporates.
The 3000gt air filter isn't on top of the engine.
It's not (much)
warmer than outside where it is
raining. The water won't
evaporate.
At least, that's what I think....
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:53:53 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Oh! We're talking about this for a hood scoop!!! I thought you were
talking about a cold air intake with the filter by the ground. If the
filter is down by the ground, the AEM valve will work just fine.
For a hood scoop, I don't think that getting rain in it will be an issue at
all. A little water will get in there, but no more than you'd get on a
hot, muggy day. A few drops aren't a big deal - it's large volumes
(puddles, buckets, etc) that you have to worry about. In fact, in water
injected cars the rule of thumb is that the volume of water injected
should be 15% of the volume of fuel. That's a lot of water!!
If you had the air filter sticking out of the hood and completely
uncovered, it might be an issue. With a hood scoop I think your biggest
problem is gonna be cleaning that filter all the time, not a little water
in the intake
charge. :)
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 16:36:36 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Some of the issues with water could be avoided by putting the scoop high
enough off the hood that rain water that gets on the hood runs under the lip
and around the downpipe instead of into the scoop. This might help
with what I have in mind, using the existing hood blister for mounting the
scoop. It is a restrictive area but it does have the necessary cross
section for an intake if I don't mind the odd shape squeezing by the
strut. I know it rains for months on end in Seattle, here in Phoenix
it tends to do it all at once in the summers, with a scoop facing forward it
could easily reach 50% of total intake during a sudden downpour in the
monsoon season. Squalls here put down an inch in less then ten minutes, going
from totally dry road to flash flood conditions that kill people fairly
consistently. This kind of thing pounding down on my hood while I'm doing
highway speeds is what I'm paranoid about. I would feel REALLY stupid
killing my engine with my own mods. The high-vacuum valve sounds like a place to
start if I can find the room down low for the new airbox. I have
been waiting for this thread to pop up since joining this group since turboing
an NA car has been shot down so emphatically the several times it was
brought up. I have had my VFR 700 Interceptor choke mildly on water during
a downpour on the highway and it's intake is stock air box with K&N filter,
under the tank and fairly protected. It hesitated, sputtered then went on
its merry way but it was a momentary issue.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 17:03:05 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
>From the story I read the hood blisters were a last-minute addition to
the first gen cars because the struts would not fit under the hood. The strut
cap is also super sensitive with wires for the ESC under there. Stories of
people putting their hand on it or leaning on it and yanking a wire lose are
abundant. I don't think that using the blister would be a good idea... I
do however think that there is a way around it, given enough room.... That's
always the limitation....
Far as your fear of flooding the engine in rain water ask yourself if there
are any SS Camaros on the roads down there? If there are, and they don't blow
up, you should be ok. Again, not totally sure of how those things are set
up, I would take a close look at one first.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rivenburg, Pete
Sent: Wednesday,
October 02, 2002 4:37 PM
To: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on
hood scoops
Some of the issues with water could be avoided by putting the scoop high
enough off the hood that rain water that gets on the hood runs under the lip
and around the downpipe instead of into the scoop. This might help
with what I have in mind, using the existing hood blister for mounting the
scoop. It is a restrictive area but it does have the necessary cross
section for an intake if I don't mind the odd shape squeezing by the
strut. I know it rains for months on end in Seattle, here in Phoenix
it tends to do it all at once in the summers, with a scoop facing forward it
could easily reach 50% of total intake during a sudden downpour in the
monsoon season. Squalls here put down an inch in less then ten minutes, going
from totally dry road to flash flood conditions that kill people fairly
consistently. This kind of thing pounding down on my hood while I'm doing
highway speeds is what I'm paranoid about. I would feel REALLY stupid
killing my engine with my own mods. The high-vacuum valve sounds like a place to
start if I can find the room down low for the new airbox. I have
been waiting for this thread to pop up since joining this group since turboing
an NA car has been shot down so emphatically the several times it was
brought up. I have had my VFR 700 Interceptor choke mildly on water during
a downpour on the highway and it's intake is stock air box with K&N filter,
under the tank and fairly protected. It hesitated, sputtered then went on
its merry way but it was a momentary issue.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 21:48:55 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
I second that ..........
Then add the Saner front AND rear bars and 3SX's rear upper control arms
and you're set to take on just about anything!
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 22:02:43 -0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore"
<
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
By the way, the speakers should pop out of the dash fairly easily.
Mine do.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message -----
Date: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 3:33
PM
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
Ok, that is fine, but is there anything that I can do that will not require
major surgery ?
I have done radio work before, but I am curious about the dash speakers
because of them being stuck in those tight places, and I am sure it will limit
my replacement choices.
Have you, or anyone else, done this replacement, and can you offer
suggestions ?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:16:48 EDT
From:
Keisuke6G72@aol.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
I've caught up with the discussion and the AEM bypass valve brings up Eric
Bowden's custom intake.
He has his air filter placed at the intercooler mount section on an NA car,
this way you would have adequate piping to install the air bypass
valve. I
understand your concerns about flooding the filter and
engine, and with this
setup that would be room for concern, but otherwise
your wouldn't have to
worry about rain.
As for the Ram Air hood scoop in place of the strut cover I am more than
willing to try one. I live in VA and am not concerned about flood
weather.
If anyone has one already manufactured that would bolt up
efficiently to the
hood I've got money. As long as it doesn't look
asinine.
Scott
91 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Correct! I agree with the last sentance,"it's most important that
everything is the same torque, even if it were 5 foot pounds off spec.".
There is always a variance in the specified torque of any assembly!
I am an ASE Certified Master medium/heavy truck mechanic, that has not had any
of his "click type" torque wrenches recalibrated in a few years, (I have
five of them all different ranges, and sizes, all "Snap On"). Will get this work
done soon! (its all "flat rate repair" through Snap On) But what I have
found in my personal experiences, is that you "step torque" everything, most of
the manuals have that now. For example, on a Cummins "C" model engine,
that has a four and a half foot long head, with 28 head bolts, you torque the
first step in sequence, go back and do it again at the same torque
setting. Note: I always find the fist 10 of the sequence "loose", Retorque at
the next higher setting, check again at this same torque, then turn 90
degrees for the "Final Torque" to pull everything into the final tightness,
which is really unknown with this method, but it works well. No comebacks
for me! What I am saying here is that you should ALWAYS recheck your
torque (except for the final turn torque) to make sure every thing is
even. If you want to go again between steps and recheck, that is great! I found
some loose bolts the third time through. There will always be some
variance in any tool, depending on age, temperature, humidity , age,
etc.. As long as you are close, (within specs) and all even, you should
have no problems.
Hope this makes sense,
David Thrower
92 Stealth R/T
TT
------------------------------
Thats ok, but what about all the unfiltered air that got sucked into the
engine! Dave Thrower
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 21:23:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Danny Edwards <
ftr3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt SL NEEDED IMMEDIATLY!!!!
I turn 16 next month and i need my 3000gt before than.... I am looking for
a SL with under 65k miles. I live in Phoenix AZ, zip code 85048. Looking for a
car in Az or in surrounding area(Cali, Nevada, Utah, etc)
Must have: Black exterior
5 speed manual
Additional options i'd like(not required):
*Aftermarket rims
* Dark
Window Tint
* Custom stereo system (deck, subs, etc)
My price range is under $16,000
Danny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 00:55:34 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Q on hood scoops
I still don't know why people are forgetting the one major factor here ...
cowl induction. If you put a scoop on the hood facing backwards (the
opening toward the rear of the car) then the pressure difference created
sucks air into this scoop (forward and against the flow of air going over the
car) and also prevents water from shooting straight in while
driving.
But as far as the turbo mag testing the water/air thing - how long was the
tube? Even a good vacuum bell can't pump water up past ... what is it ...
32 feet? I know this was not the length of the tube but if it were a
five foot tube then I don't know if the engine would have been strong enough to
suck water through an air filter an down a five foot tube of 2"
diameter. I hope they tested it with more like a one foot tube on a car
with no hood and spraying the filter with a garden hose.
At one point I did the "string on the windshield wipers after removing the
rubber seal between the firewall and the hood" and someone else duplicated
the results yet others could not duplicate it. If you remove this
weatherstrip then air is sucked into the back of the hood (some air is).
If you change the frontal area of the car or remove panels underneath the
engine then you are also changing the dynamics of air flow and YMMV.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
Date: Wednesday, October 02, 2002
19:37
From: Rivenburg, Pete
Subject: RE: Team3S: Q on hood scoops
Some of the issues with water could be avoided by putting the scoop high
enough off the hood that rain water that gets on the hood runs under the lip
and around the downpipe instead of into the scoop. This might help
with what I have in mind, using the existing hood blister for mounting the
scoop. It is a restrictive area but it does have the necessary cross
section for an intake if I don't mind the odd shape squeezing by the
strut.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 01:01:24 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Torque wrench
These fine people were referred to me by Matt Jannusch I think (if not then
you got credit there, Matt). I haven't sent my torque wrench to them
yet (Craftsman 1/2" drive 35-120 ft*lb or so torque wrench). They
can probably also do beam style but check their page or email the guy
below. He was very helpful to me so maybe we can get him some 3/S
business.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 02:38:25 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
Absolutely.
I've lowered the car 2.25" and drive on the street ............ I don't
want more negative camber ........... I'd prefer longer tire
life.
When autocrossing I can always dial in what I need.
But at that ride
height you need the control arms to bring it back close to
factory.
Damon Rachell wrote:
> the adjustable control arms will not benefit the set up at all.
there
> is more than enough adjustment for MORE negative camber. the
control
> arms allow the rears to be neutralized, prolonging tire
wear.
>
> Dennis Ninneman wrote:
>
>> I second that
..........
>>
>> Then add the Saner front AND rear bars and
3SX's rear upper control
>> arms and you're set to take on just about
anything!
>>
>> Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 02:49:29 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
3000gt SL NEEDED IMMEDIATLY!!!!
You can get a second gen r/t tt or vr4 for under 16k. check out the
classifieds on 3si.
Alex
- -----Original Message-----
Date: Thursday, October 03, 2002 12:24
AM
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of Danny Edwards
Subject: Team3S:
3000gt SL NEEDED IMMEDIATLY!!!!
I turn 16 next month and i need my 3000gt before than.... I am looking for
a SL with under 65k miles. I live in Phoenix AZ, zip code 85048. Looking for a
car in Az or in surrounding area(Cali, Nevada, Utah, etc)
Must have: Black exterior
5 speed manual
Additional options i'd like(not required):
*Aftermarket rims
* Dark
Window Tint
* Custom stereo system (deck, subs, etc)
My price range is under $16,000
Danny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 09:45:43 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
I replaced my dash tweeters with Polk components. What I did was
carefully cut out a hole in the stock grille and mounted the tweeter in the
grille. I then used everything else below the grille except the old
stock tweeter of course. If anyone is interested in seeing my setup, let
me know, and I'll e-mail you a couple pix privately.
Joe
- -----Original Message-----
Date: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 11:03
PM
From: Dennis and Anita Moore [mailto:stealth@quixnet.net]
Subject: Re:
Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
By the way, the speakers should pop out of the dash fairly easily.
Mine do.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message -----
Date: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 3:33
PM
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
Ok, that is fine, but is there anything that I can do that will not require
major surgery ?
I have done radio work before, but I am curious about the dash speakers
because of them being stuck in those tight places, and I am sure it will limit
my replacement choices.
Have you, or anyone else, done this replacement, and can you offer
suggestions ?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 08:22:18 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
NASA Pro Racing names Team3S as "Sponsor"
Team3S has been participating in NASA Pro Racing events, particularly the
HPDE (High Performance Driving Event) program, for a couple of years now.
We've been recommending NASA as the preferred group for 3000GT and Stealth
owners who want to experience the thrills of high-performance driving for a
number of
reasons:
1) NASA concentrates on learning how to *drive* safely at high speed,
rather than on studying rule books. Their motto is, "Drive Fast.
Have Fun. Drive It Home."
2) They provide outstanding
instructors who are champion race drivers to help you through the learning
process on an individual basis. "Download Sessions" occur after
*every* run, to discuss your progress or problems.
3) Strict safety and
track rules make the experience safe, and (very rare) accidents are covered by
your insurance. Full medical and emergency staff are always on
site.
4) Drivers are grouped with others who are at the same level of
experience and ability. Beginner and Novice groups allow very limited
passing, only on the straightaways.
5) Forms, rules, track maps,
driving technique, and other information are all available for free on the NASA
website.
6) NASA makes it easier for you to participate in their
driving programs by providing on-line membership, event registration and
follow-up on their website.
7) NASA gives you an opportunity to
socialize and discuss the days' events with other drivers and instructors at
their free Saturday night Barbecues. (Team3S volunteers to help with the
BBQs, along with Geoff's Toyota group, Speedtoys). Supervised, Free Day
Care turns your Driving Weekend into a family affair.
We look forward to coordinating several events with NASA in the coming
year, including the possibility of a "Stealth & 3000GT Invitational" kind of
event... Stay tuned. Team3S believes in NASA and they believe
in Team3S. We have been named as a NASA sponsor, and they have placed the
Team3S logo on their site in recognition of our ongoing participation,
especially on the West Coast. Check out
www.nasaproracing.com and click on the
Northern California Region to see our Team3S emblem.
We look forward to a good number of Team3S member cars participating at the
Sears Point HPDE on Oct 12 & 13th. It's going to be a great
time! If you haven't signed up yet, please contact the Team3S
coordinator for this event, Jim Berry (
fastmax@cox.net) for details. To see
some of the photos from the October 2001 Sears Point event, go to the Race
Reports Page on the Team3S website, and click the appropriate link:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htm
Happy driving! :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:15:29 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electronic Superchargers
Electronic superchargers, better known as "fans", are good at moving
air. The confusion is that they are not good at COMPRESSING air.
That is the key to building big power. They also don't do very good
at getting enough air through anyway... even on a NA engine, the engine will do
a ton of sucking when it requires air. Usually a fan is just getting
in the way and actually creating a bottleneck for getting air flow.
geis - above worth just slightly less than $0.02 US.
> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Tuesday, September 24, 2002
2:12 PM
> From: Tom Terflinger [mailto:terflit@hotmail.com]
>
Subject: Team3S: Electronic Superchargers
>
> I have seen these
"electronic superchargers" on Ebay and
> often wondered how if at all they
can aid performance on
> a forced induction turbo charged car?
>
They are basically a fan that blows directly into your
> intake, could
that allow the turbo to spool as the car
> is at a stop so you take off
with full boost? Anyone
> have one or try one yet? I only receive the
digest
> version now so if you want you can reply to me directly
>
or I will read it tomorrow.
>
> Thanks,
> TNT3KGT
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#962
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