Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, September 6
2002 Volume 01 : Number
945
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:37:12 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Japanese Domestic Motors
I've had good luck with the true JDM
pulls (some shops require a "core
charge,
or core engine", these are the
ones to avoid). About the 30k mile
thing...
usually it's a safe bet that
it has less than 40k miles on it, due to
Japanese
tax laws and a thing
called "shaken", more info here,
http://www.ymcajapan.org/yokohama/eng/bus-col/shaken/shaken1.htmA
friend of mine that speaks fluent Japanese (and another, that is
mostly
Japanese),
both agree with what I've read on the web. However, these
importers get
the engines for around 2-300$, then tack on 500-1000% profits.
I don't
know of a
way to talk directly to Japanese salvage yards (to them,
the motors are
junk), so if you do, you could save even more money. They
better honor
their
warranties if they charge that much. You should change
all timing belt
parts as
a precaution.
Keep in mind, that since
the average Japanese auto owner know's he/she
is going
to get rid of the
car in 30-40k miles, they may not do proper
maintenance, or
even oil
changes. The motors we got LOOKED very clean from the outside,
but had
a
lot of sludge in them. One still runs today, the other, screwed up a
timing
belt due to how the owner parked (uphill, with car in 1st, and
no
ebrake... took
tension off the belt in the right direction, and applied
it in the
wrong...
caused it to skip after a year or so).
They
don't drive long distances in Japan, so these can be relatively
"hard"
miles,
but by no means are the engines worn out.
3 motors, 3 good
experiences, you mileage my vary.
Vinny Singh - getting 2 more for the
twin engine car due to dorky engine
builder
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals
on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 14:41:38 +0200
> From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Japanese Domestic Motors
>
> At 07:24
05.09.2002 -0500,
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
wrote:
> >I am contemplating installing a used Japanese motor rather
than
overhauling
> >the current one, the total cost is considerably
less. This brings up
> >the following questions. 1. Why
are the Japanese domestic motors
> >higher HP?
>
> They
are not, just a different way to measure power.
>
> >2. Are
the differences going to give me parts problems down the
>
>line?
>
> No
>
> >3. Are they really 30k mile
motors & why?
>
> Depends where you got them from. You will
never really know ;-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 18:44:48
+0200
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
post@primusmotor.no>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
I consider to upgrade a
Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo with 19" rims
(using 18" as a
second
alternative).
What are available on the market, and does anyone of you
have any
experience driving
the car with 19" ? What is the best tire size
to use with 19" rims ?
I saw a set of very nice rims on a 1995
model:
http://photos.msn.com/imageserver/image.aspx?Image=HcZNnT9kkUh4UjUeLni8BG5RX
Vks30mZyseGKQ3bVEFc2hXdrOQQU!F28d0rPRU4jD*6zue7B7XSjNCpJzuskLwUDioncusTf
9936
X*9uAYv3ggkt74xVA8bluJOCtreQcSSIbtSZ62uJUDOOp1aKw$$
Could
this be 19" rims or 18" ? Does any one know what brand this is,
and
what
it cost ?
Best regards,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 18:56:04
+0200
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
post@primusmotor.no>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
I am sorry, it appears
that the link in my last e-mail was wrong. This
one should
be
working:
http://photo.msn.s8.com/MS8zLzAvMS8xMDMwLzE1NS8zMi9fMElBNnZna0p4a3VzeXJ1dTl2
OWhB/8f096bce7f412226ac6533a6aba76475/clbk=HcZNnT9kkUh4UjUeLni8BG5RXVks3
0mZy
seGKQ3bVEEZUjH4wd9b5tb7ZlBHqJm2z*ANAuSAc5Q$/jpg.jpg
Best
regards,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:36:09
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Short block? Long block?
I called up my local mitsu dealer and they
say that "a short block only
include
the head and the pistons. Everything
else needs to be transferred." I
haven't yet found a mitsu dealer that sells
long blocks. So generally
for our
cars, what does a short block include,
and what does a long block
include?
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 13:48:10
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Steering wheel swaps
Are the steering wheels all the same through
the years? Specifically
with regard
to a 92. Don't care about the stereo
controls. Mine is totally scuffed
up.
Any concerns about air bags when
swapping?
All comments and suggestions
welcome.
Thanks
Andre
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 13:08:49
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
are you really thinking this is
latency in the probe or what Flash is
measuring
is really air temperature
near the brake parts?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 9:44
AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
> I just don't have a super-expensive
probe so it takes a few seconds to
>get a reading sometimes and I have
to take that into consideration.
>
This is what concerns me the most
about the measurement. Your table
shows that
the rotors get hot while just
sitting there in traffic, which means the
slow
probe is finally
catching up to the correct temperature.
4. Braking again
for a traffic light = 105 F
5. Sitting for 20 seconds at the
light = 190 F
I suspect that the highest temperature reached was probably
200+
degrees, but
it was only 190 when the sensor caught
up.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:17:17
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
post@primusmotor.no>
> I consider
to upgrade a Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo with 19" rims
> (using 18" as a
second alternative).
> What are available on the market, and does anyone
of you have any
> experience driving the car with 19" ?
> What is
the best tire size to use with 19" rims ?
> I saw a set of very nice rims
on a 1995 model:
- ------------------snipped picture
URL-------------------->
> Could this be 19" rims or 18" ? Does any one
know what brand this is,
> and what it cost ?
-
-------------------------->
Hey, Roger,
I think Cody is the
only one who is using 19" rims. 245/35R-19, I
think.
Unless your car
is only for show, or you only drive on flat roads, 19"
is not
recommended. The slightest road hazard or pothole will probably
trash
your
rims. Stick with 18" wheels.
The picture that you
pointed out looks like the rims are TRD Sports T2,
but
it's hard to tell,
since it's so small, and since that car is lowered *a
lot*!
See another
picture of the TRDs here:
www.gtautosports.com/whelspok.htmA
similar
look is the SSR GT-1; Ann Koch and I both have them and they get
a lot of
comments. See them here:
www.Team3S.com/SPIR102701/AnnKoch.htmOr
my old Gewalts (hard to find now) are also similar:
www.Team3S.com/THill.htmYou
can see other wheels on the TireRack site
www.tirerack.com.
And you can see all
the various sizes that will fit our cars on our
website -
see Cody's "Tire
Plus-Sizing" Page, which has a formula for determining
the
tire sizes
that fit various rim sizes:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htmWheels
in the 18" sizes (the nice ones, anyway) usually cost from $300
to
$400
(USD) and are very expensive to ship. It might be cheaper to order
from
GT
Autosports, who often has the wheels shipped directly from
Japan,
instead of you
paying for shipping to the US and then to
Norway...
Good luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 11:37:18
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: SP
registration is now open.
I just signed up for the SP event oct
12-13. So, if you're interested,
feel free to register through their
site, which is:
https://www.nasaproracing.com/nasa_event/show/?event_id=24Good
luck and happy racing.
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 14:17:08
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
He's measuring pad temperature,
because the probe is touching the pad
(his first post). Rich
At
01:08 PM 9/5/02 -0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>are you really thinking
this is latency in the probe or what Flash is
>measuring is really air
temperature near the brake parts?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 12:38:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: SP registration is now open.
Were both
in.
On Thu, 5 Sep 2002, Damon Rachell wrote:
> I just signed up
for the SP event oct 12-13. So, if you're
> interested,
>
feel free to register through their site, which is:
>
https://www.nasaproracing.com/nasa_event/show/?event_id=24>
> Good luck and happy racing.
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 14:44:26
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
No 19's here.... however,
have advised a couple people with them on
their
cars... 245/35-19
works, as does 225/40-19... 245/35 is preferable as
keeps the
same
contact patch as stock (width at least)...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Thursday,
September 05, 2002 1:17 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comCc: Primus Motor AS;
cody
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
post@primusmotor.no>
> I consider
to upgrade a Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo with 19" rims
> (using 18" as a
second alternative).
> What are available on the market, and does anyone
of you have any
> experience driving the car with 19" ?
> What is
the best tire size to use with 19" rims ?
> I saw a set of very nice rims
on a 1995 model:
- ------------------snipped picture
URL-------------------->
> Could this be 19" rims or 18" ? Does any one
know what brand this is,
> and what it cost ?
-
-------------------------->
Hey, Roger,
I think Cody is the
only one who is using 19" rims. 245/35R-19, I
think.
Unless your car
is only for show, or you only drive on flat roads, 19"
is not
recommended. The slightest road hazard or pothole will probably
trash
your rims. Stick with 18" wheels.
The picture that you
pointed out looks like the rims are TRD Sports T2,
but
it's hard to tell,
since it's so small, and since that car is lowered *a
lot*!
See another
picture of the TRDs here:
www.gtautosports.com/whelspok.htmA
similar
look is the SSR GT-1; Ann Koch and I both have them and they get
a lot of
comments. See them here:
www.Team3S.com/SPIR102701/AnnKoch.htmOr
my old Gewalts (hard to find now) are also similar:
www.Team3S.com/THill.htmYou
can see other wheels on the TireRack site
www.tirerack.com.
And you can see all the
various sizes that will fit our cars on our
website -
see Cody's "Tire
Plus-Sizing" Page, which has a formula for determining
the
tire sizes
that fit various rim sizes:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htmWheels
in the 18" sizes (the nice ones, anyway) usually cost from $300
to
$400
(USD) and are very expensive to ship. It might be cheaper to order
from
GT
Autosports, who often has the wheels shipped directly from
Japan,
instead of you
paying for shipping to the US and then to
Norway...
Good luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 14:52:20
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
It doesn't really matter, because the
latency time is so big, he's only
getting a general idea of the temperature
anyway. Instead of cementing
(you'd need a
cement epoxy to handle 1400
F), what he COULD do would be to solder the
thermocouple to one of the thin
insulating plates that fits between the
pistons and
the pad. He could
solder it in the middle, between the pistons, where
the T/C would be out of
the way, and then feed the T/C wire straight up
out of the
caliper. Can't
get much closer to the pad than that.
\ Rich
At 02:47 PM 9/5/02
-0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>He "thinks" he's measuring pad
temperature, because he "thinks" he has
>positive contact with the (back
of?) the pad. Based on his data, its
>more reasonable to think he's
measuring the air temperature near the
>back of the pad. How about
cementing the thermocouple to the backer?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 13:03:39
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock '91 double DIN radio
Does anyone have the stock Radio from
the 1st gen 3S? The Mac double
DIN
one found on the R/T and VR4 of
course.
E-mail off list please.
- -jamie
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 13:20:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Headlight Peeling Fix
Fred,
I finally found the links to the product I
used on my headlights, with
great success BTW. The online company I ordered
from is Chief Aircraft
Inc, and the
product is called "Scratch Off Optica
4". I highly recommend it, cost
was $34.95. To find it, follow the link
to:
1) Catalog
2) Windshield - Scratch Removal
3) Scratch Off
Hope
this helps :)
https://www.chiefaircraft.com/Roger
L
F15DOC
PS. I am posting this to the main Team3S as
well.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:23:54
-0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <
mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 92 Stealth ES 5 speed tranny problem
Hi folks, I'm a newbie here
just bought a 92 Stealth ES yesterday, I
gave
4000.00 for it, It's clean
but has 148k miles, the only problem is it
will not stay
in 5th gear
after it gets up to operating temp unless you hold it in
gear, can
anyone
tell me what I'm looking for as far as how much this will cost to
repair
and where to look to get it repaired, or are there any
special
tools
required? I think I could do it myself, I'm experienced at
rebuilding
mercruiser
outdrives and industrial gearboxes, my only prob
would be special tools
and
finding parts and knowing if there are any
preloads and shimming that
may need to
be done. Thanks in
advance, Mark.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 14:47:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
He "thinks" he's measuring pad
temperature, because he "thinks" he has
positive
contact with the (back
of?) the pad. Based on his data, its more
reasonable
to think he's
measuring the air temperature near the back of the pad.
How
about
cementing the thermocouple to the backer?
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 2:17
PM
To: Willis, Charles E.;
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
He's measuring pad temperature,
because the probe is touching the pad
(his first post). Rich
At
01:08 PM 9/5/02 -0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>are you really thinking
this is latency in the probe or what Flash is
>measuring is really air
temperature near the brake parts?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 14:32:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: HID
Conversions - Revisited
Time to start another thread on the HID
conversions.
I would like to convert at the same time as I switch
to
the 99 front end and lights.
Questions for newbies to oldies would
be:
1) Difference between H1-H3-H4 (and what those
designations
mean)
2) Cost and best place to purchase.
3) Difficulty of
conversion.
4) Walk throughs, I have seen the stuff on 316 Site.
Thanx for
the new discussion thread.
PS - Is anyone else preparing to do this and
if you
have, which conversion are you going to (or gone to)
and why did
you choose that route.
5) Lastly - Anything you would avoid - ex.
Ebay,
etc...
Thanx again
Roger L
F15DOC
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 15:59:58
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Removing front brake dust shields
Greetings Team3Sers,
I've got my
'91 VR4 on jack stands and the wheels off, ready to bleed
the
brakes and
change front pads. I've been thinking of removing the dust
shields based on
come recommendations from the LIST. Looking at the
front
wheels it looks
like the calipers and rotors have to come off first. I
have
yet to know
how deep one has to go beyond that. I'm hoping for some
insights before I
jump feet first into the project. If I remove the dust
shields, I'm
considering making a little bracket to support the ABS
cable
which is
currently attached to the dust shield. I'd also like any
comments
on the
need to do that.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:41:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Removing front brake dust shields
You can zip-tie the ABS cable
to the strut (there is a bolt hole free
when the
dust shield is removed
and you zip-tie through here). I might have a
picture
of
mine. Also, you can take a Dremel and trim around where it attaches
and
not
take off the rotor. I don't have a picture of the ABS cable now but
it
gets
removed from the dust shield and has enough play in the line to
zip-tie
to the strut.
The main page for these pics is
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/Front
left brake with dust shield in stock location:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/BigReds/Small_size/Install_10_20_
resize.jpg
View
of knuckle with caliper removed:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/BigReds/Small_size/Install_10_45_
resize.jpg
View
of Big Red but with dust shield (to show its mounting locations):
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/BigReds/Small_size/Install_50_54_
resize.jpg
View
of dust shield and rotor removed:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/BigReds/Small_size/Install_10_52_
resize.jpg
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 19:00
I've been thinking of removing the
dust
shields based on come recommendations from the LIST. Looking at
the
front
wheels it looks like the calipers and rotors have to come off
first. I
have
yet to know how deep one has to go beyond that. I'm hoping
for some
insights before I jump feet first into the project. If I remove the
dust
shields, I'm considering making a little bracket to support the
ABS
cable
which is currently attached to the dust shield. I'd also like
any
comments
on the need to do that.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:21:26
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Removing front brake dust shields
You can remove the dust
shield by four bolts after removing the (pads
and) calipers
and
rotors. You have to disconnect the ABS sensor. I cut the dust
shields so that I could remount the ABS sensor strain relief.
Rich
Merrit just took
them off and left the ABS sensor strain relief lying
loose. That's in
the front. The rear ones you pretty much just tear
off after removing
the calipers
and rotors.
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 20:01:47
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
What Type Clutch?
We have a diaphragm spring.
JT
> Do our
clutches use a Diaphragm spring pressure plate assembly or Coil
>
spring pressure plate assembly? Dennis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:38:54
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Low Boost
Well, here I am again asking for advice(and getting rid
of the car
wouldn't
be bad one either at this point cuz i'm so frustrated
with it already).
I
was checking for a blown turbo over the weekend and
today was the first
time
I drove the car since messing with it. I'm pretty
positive it was
boosting
to max stock level before then. Now it will only
go to about 7psi. I'm
pretty sure i retightened all the hose clamps and stuff
after I was done
looking around. Does this mean my turbo(s) are definitely
gone
already(blueish smoke still there)? I pray not cuz I really don't
have
more
than a few hundred bucks to try to fix it. Anybody out there
have a pair
of
low-mile "stockers" for a reasonable price? Also, anybody
around the NY
area
who would be willing to help me replace them for a
"help a fellow
member"
fee?
- -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:51:07
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HID Conversions - Revisited
Roger, here is what I know about
HID's and upgrading any car that did
not
come with them from the
factory.
1. There are 2 types of bulbs used S or D
2. The 94-98 headlights require the D bulb as where a MKIV requires
the S
bulb
3. If you use the wrong style bulb in the housing you will get a
funky
beam pattern b/c the bulb is not properly
designed
to work with the optics of the
headlight.
4. You want phillips bulbs (they have the most stringent
quality
control)
5. the kits are about 500-800 (depending on the
components
Your best bet is to do a search on the
chat forum and poll the
forum to find
out which
kit most of them use and then contact that particular
kit
maker
and talk with them.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Ludwig [mailto:yiotta@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thu 9/5/2002 5:32 PM
To: TEAM 3S
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: HID
Conversions - Revisited
Time to start another thread on the HID
conversions.
I would like to convert at the same time as I switch
to
the 99 front end and lights.
Questions for newbies to oldies would be:
1) Difference between H1-H3-H4 (and what those designations mean)
2)
Cost and best place to purchase.
3) Difficulty of conversion.
4) Walk
throughs, I have seen the stuff on 316 Site.
Thanx for the new discussion
thread.
PS - Is anyone else preparing to do this and if you
have,
which conversion are you going to (or gone to)
and why did you choose that
route.
5) Lastly - Anything you would avoid - ex. Ebay, etc...
Thanx again
Roger L
F15DOC
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:47:22
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 92 Stealth ES 5 speed tranny problem
"Get thee to a
mechanic". OK, maybe you can do it yourself, if you have
the
service
manuals...
This sounds a lot like a problem I had where my fifth gear
assembly came
loose on the shaft. I think it was a shear pin that
sheared, and let
everything get loose. I didn't get to a mechanic in
time, and the gear
assembly ended up punching a hole in the end cap and
depositing many
pieces
of my tranny on the ground. It's a fairly
simple fix if you get to it
in
time, somewhat more expensive if you wait
as long as I did. I think you
can
do the work with the tranny still
on the car, you'll need to take the
right
front tire and debris shield off
to get access to the end cap that needs
to
come off. The service
manuals go into much better detail.
It's not that uncommon of a
problem. Hope this helps.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark & Brenda" <
mebmark@airmail.net>
To: <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 4:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: 92 Stealth ES 5 speed
tranny problem
Hi folks, I'm a newbie here just bought a 92 Stealth ES
yesterday, I
gave
4000.00 for it, It's clean but has 148k miles, the only
problem is it
will
not stay in 5th gear after it gets up to operating temp
unless you hold
it
in gear, can anyone tell me what I'm looking for as far
as how much this
will cost to repair and where to look to get it repaired, or
are there
any
special tools required? I think I could do it myself, I'm
experienced at
rebuilding mercruiser outdrives and industrial gearboxes, my
only prob
would
be special tools and finding parts and knowing if there
are any preloads
and
shimming that may need to be done. Thanks in
advance, Mark.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:54:48
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
What about using a noncontact temperature
probe for the brakes? Here's
a
link to one example I found with a
Google search.
http://www.barnant.com/temperature/infrared_probes.htmJust
a thought.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 20:17:10
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low Boost
Let me try to make this short.
#1 take off your
Y-pipe and check for oil inside.
a. If do not feel oil, the blue smoke
(likely oil) is coming from
somewhere
else. 99% of the time oil seals
break on the intake side and you will
get
oil in the Y-pipe.
b. If you
do feel oil, look into the 2 pipes going from the front of the
car
to the
Y-pipe and see which of those is oily. It will likely be the
driver
side
one (rear turbo). The pass side is the front turbo, which
rarely
has
problems.
#2 In the back of the Y-pipe there is a nipple
for a small vacuum hose.
This
hose goes to your car's boost controller and
the wastegate actuators.
a. Trace this line and make sure that it goes to the
plastic
H-connector.
b. Make sure that all 4 holes on the H-connector have
hoses coming out
of
them.
c. One of those hoses will go to a boost
control solenoid (a plastic
thingy
that is mounted on the firewall. That
thing should have an electrical
connection going to it from the bottom and 2
vacuum hoses, one coming
from
the H-connector, another one from down below
(eventually goes into the
intake). Make sure that this solenoid is correctly
connected. MAKE SURE
that
the 2 vacuum lines that go to it are connected
correctly, they are NOT
reversible! (and I don't know the order from the top
of my head)
d. If you still have problems after doing step C, trace the
electrical
wire
that goes to the solenoid as far as you can, make sure it
is not
damaged. If
that does not fix it, find a local 3/S member and
borrow his solenoid
and
try the boost. I have a feeling that your solenoid
is messed up.
#3 Make sure you are using the stock (or proper) hose from
the Y-Pipe to
the
H-connector. That is a special high pressure, low volume
hose. The stock
hose will have a red band on each end.
#4 If all else
fails, I got a set of stock turbos and actuators that I
would
be willing
to sell or trade. These have been rebuilt (seals and bearings
changed) and
never used after the rebuild. Standard going rate for turbo
cores (used
turbos that need to rebuilt before use) is $300. Cost of
rebuilding them is
about $250-300 as well. Turbos from the dealer are
like
$1200 (last I
checked locally)
The set I have now I was going to put on my car, but
then realized that
the
turbos on my car were not as bad as I thought, so
they have been sitting
in
a box for quite some time now. If I sell them,
it will be as a pair with
wastegate actuators included. They have been laying
around a long time
now,
I don't think there anything wrong with them, they
have been rebuilt
correctly, there is absolutely no shaft wobble at all but I
want to sell
them as-is. I'm in no rush to sell them and I think
$450+shipping would
be a
fair price for the pair. You will need your own
exhaust gaskets and
studs.
(turbos have studs on them, but people say that
you should replace them;
Shouldn't cost ya more than $20 for
everything).
Hope my ideas help.
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 6:39 PM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
'
Subject: Team3S: Low Boost
Well, here I am again asking for
advice(and getting rid of the car
wouldn't
be bad one either at this point
cuz i'm so frustrated with it already).
I
was checking for a blown turbo
over the weekend and today was the first
time
I drove the car since
messing with it. I'm pretty positive it was
boosting
to max stock level
before then. Now it will only go to about 7psi. I'm
pretty sure i retightened
all the hose clamps and stuff after I was done
looking around. Does this mean
my turbo(s) are definitely gone
already(blueish smoke still there)? I pray
not cuz I really don't have
more
than a few hundred bucks to try to fix
it. Anybody out there have a pair
of
low-mile "stockers" for a reasonable
price? Also, anybody around the NY
area
who would be willing to help me
replace them for a "help a fellow
member"
fee?
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 20:53:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: 93
vr-4 engine???
I am searching for a vr-4 and I have a question about
a
1993 vr I'm looking at. the person who is selling it
tells me that the engine
is different than the ounce in
the 91 and 92's is this correct? If so what
exactly is
the difference? I am also wondering if it is possible
to make
the boost the same as a 94 or above. Does this
cost a lot of money or is it a
simple adjustment? The
final question I have is about the body style of
the
93, I'm not crazy about it and I am wondering the
price of changing it
to the 94+ body style so I can
factor that in when buying. Thank you in
advance for
answering these random, probably
boring
questions!!!!!!!!!
~Kian~
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:00:08
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: rear
sway bars
Anybody have a write-up on the rear sway bar installation
????
Eric Gross has what appears to be a good write-up on the fronts
!!!!
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 00:28:14
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels for Dodge Stealth R/T twin turbo
Those are 19" rims.
http://photo.msn.s8.com/MS8zLzAvMS8xMDMwLzE1NS8zMi9fMElBNnZna0p4a3VzeXJ1dTl2OWhB/
8f096bce7f412226ac6533a6aba76475/clbk=HcZNnT9kkUh4UjUeLni8BG5RXVks30mZys
eGKQ
3bVEEZUjH4wd9b5tb7ZlBHqJm2z*ANAuSAc5Q$/jpg.jpg
I
saw identical rims on another car at the National Gathering. That was
an
Altered Atmosphere car that won lots of awards for looks and interior.
It
had 245/35R-19 tires.
Philip
At 12:44 9/5/2002, Roger L.
Skoglund wrote:
>Could this be 19" rims or 18" ? Does any one know what
brand this is,
and
>what it cost ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:45:28
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
#1 if you want it to look like a '94, buy a 94.
It will cost less. From
memory, you will need to swap the front bumper cover,
headlights, hood,
sideskirts and the glass thing between the tail lights to
make it look
like
a '94. Bottom line, will cost you A LOT more than to
just buy a '94.
#2 To best of my knowledge there is no difference between
91-93 motors.
Matter of fact, all motors 91-99 are virtually (if not
totally)
identical.
Someone told me once that exhaust ports on 96+ have
been made smaller
for
some emissions BS, but that's just a rumor I heard.
One piece of advice
I
have for you is that if you do buy an engine that is
not from the same
year
(even month) of your car, you get the ECU with it.
For some reason the
pin-out of the ECUs differs a lot and thus a '97 motor
will not work
with a
'93 ECU. I think you can get around this problem by
changing around the
pinout on the harness, but that's a pain in the
butt.
#3 Speaking of ECUs, others may correct me, but I believe that
91-93 had
the
OBD1 ECU (considered the best if you are going to use ECU
loggers),
94-95
had some oddball ECU and the 96-99 had the OBD2.
#4
The boost between the first gen and second gen cars just a tweak
in
the
boost control solenoid that the factory did. All engines 91-99
are
capable
of same boost. You can turn up your boost on a first gen car
with a $5
fish
tank air valve :)
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Kian Habib
Sent: Thursday,
September 05, 2002 8:54 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
I am searching for a vr-4 and I have a question
about
a 1993 vr I'm looking at. the person who is selling it
tells me that
the engine is different than the ounce in
the 91 and 92's is this correct? If
so what exactly is
the difference? I am also wondering if it is
possible
to make the boost the same as a 94 or above. Does this
cost a lot
of money or is it a simple adjustment? The
final question I have is about the
body style of the
93, I'm not crazy about it and I am wondering the
price
of changing it to the 94+ body style so I can
factor that in when buying.
Thank you in advance for
answering these random, probably
boring
questions!!!!!!!!!
~Kian~
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 00:58:06
-0400
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject:
Team3S: drive shaft
hey, this is the northern lad, up here in alaska. my
universal joint on
my
drive shaft on my 92 vr 4 went out. i need a
replacement shaft, if
anyone has one
hook me up. the front shaft. the one
that comes out of the
transfer
case.
thanks
songsay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:40:15
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Short block? Long block?
The short block includes:
block, crankshaft, rods, pistons, rings,
bearings
and is all
assembled. You need to transfer everything else.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Team3S: Short block? Long
block?
> I called up my local mitsu dealer and they say that "a short
block
only
> include the head and the pistons. Everything else needs to
be
transferred."
> I haven't yet found a mitsu dealer that sells long
blocks. So
generally for
> our cars, what does a short block include,
and what does a long block
> include?
>
> Riyan
> 93
stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 00:42:56
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Short block? Long block?
Surprising as it may sound,
Schucks (aka Checkers) sells rebuilt
shortblocks
and longblocks for our
cars reasonably cheap. They also have a 12000
mile
warranty on all
longblocks and employees get 25% off :) I have never
heard
of anyone
ordering one from there, but I did have them look it up for me
about 6months
ago and they said they list them as an available part and
can
have them at
the store within 10 days.... I don't remember the prices
exactly, but I do
remember thinking that they were mass cheap. For some
reason I remember $2400
for a full motor (with core trade-in, cores
valued
at $700 or something),
but don't quote me on that.
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Thursday,
September 05, 2002 10:40 PM
To:
riyan@hotpop.com; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Short block? Long block?
The short block includes:
block, crankshaft, rods, pistons, rings,
bearings
and is all
assembled. You need to transfer everything else.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Team3S: Short block? Long
block?
> I called up my local mitsu dealer and they say that "a short
block
only
> include the head and the pistons. Everything else needs to
be
transferred."
> I haven't yet found a mitsu dealer that sells long
blocks. So
generally for
> our cars, what does a short block include,
and what does a long block
> include?
>
> Riyan
> 93
stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 06:37:19
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
Everything here appears correct except the
motor changes.... '91-'92
had 2-bolt mains with a Cam Angle
Sensor... Mid '93+ has 4 bolt mains
and a crank angle sensor...
Don't forget, if you want the '94+ look, the rear bumper changed
as
well...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Tigran Varosyan
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 11:45 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
#1 if you want it to look like a '94, buy a
94. It will cost less. From
memory, you will need to swap the front bumper
cover, headlights, hood,
sideskirts and the glass thing between the tail
lights to make it look
like
a '94. Bottom line, will cost you A LOT more
than to just buy a '94.
#2 To best of my knowledge there is no difference
between 91-93 motors.
Matter of fact, all motors 91-99 are virtually (if not
totally)
identical.
Someone told me once that exhaust ports on 96+ have
been made smaller
for
some emissions BS, but that's just a rumor I heard.
One piece of advice
I
have for you is that if you do buy an engine that is
not from the same
year
(even month) of your car, you get the ECU with it.
For some reason the
pin-out of the ECUs differs a lot and thus a '97 motor
will not work
with a
'93 ECU. I think you can get around this problem by
changing around the
pinout on the harness, but that's a pain in the
butt.
#3 Speaking of ECUs, others may correct me, but I believe that
91-93 had
the
OBD1 ECU (considered the best if you are going to use ECU
loggers),
94-95
had some oddball ECU and the 96-99 had the OBD2.
#4
The boost between the first gen and second gen cars just a tweak
in
the
boost control solenoid that the factory did. All engines 91-99
are
capable
of same boost. You can turn up your boost on a first gen car
with a $5
fish
tank air valve :)
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Kian Habib
Sent: Thursday,
September 05, 2002 8:54 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
I am searching for a vr-4 and I have a question
about
a 1993 vr I'm looking at. the person who is selling it
tells me that
the engine is different than the ounce in
the 91 and 92's is this correct? If
so what exactly is
the difference? I am also wondering if it is
possible
to make the boost the same as a 94 or above. Does this
cost a lot
of money or is it a simple adjustment? The
final question I have is about the
body style of the
93, I'm not crazy about it and I am wondering the
price
of changing it to the 94+ body style so I can
factor that in when buying.
Thank you in advance for
answering these random, probably
boring
questions!!!!!!!!!
~Kian~
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 07:39:10
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 93
vr-4 engine???
My 93 turbo with a build date of 5-92 has a four bolt main
while the
earlier
models had the 2 bolt main. The 4 bolt is considered
stronger but unless
you're going to go for 800 HP it probably doesn't make a
difference.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 93 vr-4
engine???
> #1 if you want it to look like a '94, buy a 94. It will
cost less.
From
> memory, you will need to swap the front bumper cover,
headlights,
hood,
> sideskirts and the glass thing between the tail
lights to make it look
like
> a '94. Bottom line, will cost you A LOT
more than to just buy a '94.
>
> #2 To best of my knowledge there
is no difference between 91-93
motors.
> Matter of fact, all motors
91-99 are virtually (if not totally)
identical.
> Someone told me once
that exhaust ports on 96+ have been made smaller
for
> some emissions
BS, but that's just a rumor I heard. One piece of
advice I
> have for
you is that if you do buy an engine that is not from the same
year
>
(even month) of your car, you get the ECU with it. For some reason the
>
pin-out of the ECUs differs a lot and thus a '97 motor will not work
with
a
> '93 ECU. I think you can get around this problem by changing
around
the
> pinout on the harness, but that's a pain in the
butt.
>
> #3 Speaking of ECUs, others may correct me, but I believe
that 91-93
had the
> OBD1 ECU (considered the best if you are going to
use ECU loggers),
94-95
> had some oddball ECU and the 96-99 had the
OBD2.
>
> #4 The boost between the first gen and second gen cars
just a tweak in
the
> boost control solenoid that the factory did. All
engines 91-99 are
capable
> of same boost. You can turn up your boost
on a first gen car with a $5
fish
> tank air valve :)
>
>
Tyson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
Behalf
> Of Kian Habib
> Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 8:54 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
>
> I am searching for a vr-4
and I have a question about
> a 1993 vr I'm looking at. the person who is
selling it
> tells me that the engine is different than the ounce
in
> the 91 and 92's is this correct? If so what exactly is
> the
difference? I am also wondering if it is possible
> to make the boost the
same as a 94 or above. Does this
> cost a lot of money or is it a simple
adjustment? The
> final question I have is about the body style of
the
> 93, I'm not crazy about it and I am wondering the
> price of
changing it to the 94+ body style so I can
> factor that in when buying.
Thank you in advance for
> answering these random, probably boring
>
questions!!!!!!!!!
>
~Kian~
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 11:30:57
-0400
From: Steve Burrows <
steve@3SXPerformance.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3SX Recent Developments and Specials
Hey Everyone,
Since some
of you don't follow the 3Si boards, we wanted to let you know
about a few
recent developments here at 3SX. :-)
We recently released and are now
featuring as our monthly special
adjustable rear camber control arms.
These are exactly what you need if
you've lowered your car and the rear
camber is a bit too much on the
negative side. These will allow you to
get the camber back into
spec. They are available now for both the AWD
and FWD cars.
We also now have the dual gauges that we have been waiting
on for quite
some time. They were last months feature, but because
they didn't
arrive
until the second week of August, we have extended the
special prices
until
September 10th. Check them out on the Gauges
page at our site.
There are new products throughout, a few new pages, and
we now have a
feature section for the 3SX Fleet of vehicles if your
interested in what
we
cruise in :-)
http://www.3SXPerformance.comThanks,
EricB
3SX
Performance Automotive
http://www.3SXPerformance.comTel:
704-563-7249
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 12:20:17
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
Dumb question I think, but how do you know
if you have 2 or 4 bolt mains
without taking the motor apart?
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Friday,
September 06, 2002 10:39 AM
To: Tigran Varosyan;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
My 93 turbo with a build date of 5-92 has a
four bolt main while the
earlier
models had the 2 bolt main. The 4 bolt is
considered stronger but unless
you're going to go for 800 HP it probably
doesn't make a difference.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 93 vr-4
engine???
> #1 if you want it to look like a '94, buy a 94. It will
cost less.
From
> memory, you will need to swap the front bumper cover,
headlights,
hood,
> sideskirts and the glass thing between the tail
lights to make it look
like
> a '94. Bottom line, will cost you A LOT
more than to just buy a '94.
>
> #2 To best of my knowledge there is
no difference between 91-93
motors.
> Matter of fact, all motors 91-99
are virtually (if not totally)
identical.
> Someone told me once that
exhaust ports on 96+ have been made smaller
for
> some emissions BS,
but that's just a rumor I heard. One piece of
advice I
> have for you
is that if you do buy an engine that is not from the same
year
> (even
month) of your car, you get the ECU with it. For some reason the
> pin-out
of the ECUs differs a lot and thus a '97 motor will not work
with a
>
'93 ECU. I think you can get around this problem by changing
around
the
> pinout on the harness, but that's a pain in the
butt.
>
> #3 Speaking of ECUs, others may correct me, but I believe
that 91-93
had the
> OBD1 ECU (considered the best if you are going to
use ECU loggers),
94-95
> had some oddball ECU and the 96-99 had the
OBD2.
>
> #4 The boost between the first gen and second gen cars
just a tweak in
the
> boost control solenoid that the factory did. All
engines 91-99 are
capable
> of same boost. You can turn up your boost
on a first gen car with a $5
fish
> tank air valve :)
>
>
Tyson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
Behalf
> Of Kian Habib
> Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 8:54 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 93 vr-4 engine???
>
> I am searching for a vr-4 and
I have a question about
> a 1993 vr I'm looking at. the person who is
selling it
> tells me that the engine is different than the ounce
in
> the 91 and 92's is this correct? If so what exactly is
> the
difference? I am also wondering if it is possible
> to make the boost the
same as a 94 or above. Does this
> cost a lot of money or is it a simple
adjustment? The
> final question I have is about the body style of
the
> 93, I'm not crazy about it and I am wondering the
> price of
changing it to the 94+ body style so I can
> factor that in when buying.
Thank you in advance for
> answering these random, probably boring
>
questions!!!!!!!!!
>
~Kian~
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#945
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