Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, July 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
894
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:21:32 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
Honestly the big problem with our radiator
is not it's size but its design
it is a single pass top to bottom design and
only about 70% gets any
significant airflow. Replacing it with a dual
pass side to side unit is the
best bet only problem is moving the upper rad
hose and having it not
interfere with the factory IC
piping............
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 2:16
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
>
> I have been selectively
following the overheating thread. Has anyone
> looked into fitting a
radiator from another car (maybe from Jack T's
> Sierra? ;-) That would
probably be the biggest bang for the buck.
>
> All we need is a
thicker radiator with the same or slightly smaller
> frontal dimensions.
Our inlets/outlets are pretty standard, so flex hoses
> would attach to
any similar-looking replacement radiator. I imagine major
> radiator
manufacturers have catalogs that classify their radiators by
> height,
width and thickness. This is where I would start if or when I get
> the
now notorious 2nd gen overheating problem.
>
> I solved an
overheating problem on my old Chrysler van last year. Replaced
> a single
row radiator with a double row for only $159. Worked as marvel.
> There
was an extra heavy-duty 3-row radiator available, but it an
> additional
$100. I did not need it.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:33:17
-0500
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Steering wheel radio control
I get no response from the steering
wheel mounted radio control. The control
seems to be a bit loose, but there
is no evidence that someone has tampered
with it. Any suggestions? And thanks
to all for the advice on oil pressure,
Mitsu tells me that this is completely
normal on their cars and when the
needle is at the bottom, you are running
plenty of oil pressure...still
makes me cringe, though.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:47:53
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Replacement advice fast...
If it was me, I would get an
aftermarket alternator and have someone else
install it.
How many
miles? You might consider a used or rebuilt alternator.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: anscray
[SMTP:anscray@attbi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 9:46 AM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Replacement advice fast...
>
>
Guys,
>
> It seems as if my alternator has taken a huge
dump on my 94 VR-4.. This
> happened on my SL at about the same
mileage so this comes as no surprise..
> However, My local satan dealer
whom I used to trust until a recent buyout
> is
> quoting me
$500+... This includes $331.00 just for the alternator.. The
> rest
is of course the belt and satans labor... My question is; Am
I
> better
> off letting satan install his OEM for $331 or am I
better off looking for
> an
> aftermarket non-OEM part that will
generate more juice and might be close
> to
> the same price..
Any advice would be appreciated here..
>
> Thanks,
>
Scott
> 94 VR-4
> K&N FIPK, Borla, Apexi-AVCR,Greddy
S-Type
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 16:22:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Idle stepper motor replaced, still not working
Vacuum leak was the next
thing on my list to check. I have visually
checked all the hoses, they are
mostly silicon, and they seemed fine.
I will check it with a tester though.
The idle screw is still in
there and I have not messed with it since I had
bought the car three
years ago. The throttle cable is not too tight since
yesterday when I
started it the idle was fine until it got warm. That was
after I
cleaned the old idle motor. After the new one it went straight up
and
I didn't mess with the cable to replace the motor. Any other ideas?
Thanks
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 19:36:06
-0400
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Idle stepper motor replaced, still not working
How about
this. When the Idle motor is behaving well shut the car down
and unplug
the harness. That should freeze it in it's current condition.
If the
idle never shoots up erratically with the harness disconnected then
there's a
pretty good chance that the motor is shot.
There's a procedure in the
manual for testing the IAC that involves a 6 volt
power source and a test
harness.
I'm still having problems with my IAC but never got around to
testing it. It's
frozen in the closed position. I ended up
opening the idle screw so it just idles
well. Although as Jeff
mentioned before doing that is not the greatest idea since
the ECM uses the
IAC to regulate air/fuel ratios...
-Mark Frouhar
95' VR4
The 2700lb 85 TA
http://www.geocities.com/Legoland0Casey
Spivey wrote:
>
> Vacuum leak was the next thing on my list to
check. I have visually
> checked all the hoses, they are mostly silicon,
and they seemed fine.
> I will check it with a tester though. The idle
screw is still in
> there and I have not messed with it since I had bought
the car three
> years ago. The throttle cable is not too tight since
yesterday when I
> started it the idle was fine until it got warm. That
was after I
> cleaned the old idle motor. After the new one it went
straight up and
> I didn't mess with the cable to replace the motor. Any
other ideas? Thanks
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 18:25:00
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Admin Notice: Team3S websites down until later tonight.
To
all:
One of the DNS servers is shut down, due to an Air Conditioner
failure.
Repairs are underway, but it will probably be several hours before
things are
back on line. This affects both our main site and our mirror
site:
www.Team3S.comwww.Stealth-3000GT.stWe
apologize for any inconvenience.
The Admins, Team3S
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:09:30
-0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Half Shafts
Hello Everyone,
I need some advice on
removing the Right Rear half shaft, as the boot is
torn on the inner CV
Joint. Do I just pop the shaft out of the diff with a
heel bar, or must I
remove the cover on the back of the diff and remove
something to get the
shaft out?
Thanks in advance,
David Thrower
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 23:56:01
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark plus wires at the 60K tune up
also, replace your fuel filter and
pour a bottle of redline SI-1 fuel
injector cleaner down that tank. it'll
help get some of that carbon out of
the engine and perhaps unleash a few HP
that you've been missing?
good luck,
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 00:04:31
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Replacement advice fast...
you may even consider finding an "alternator
rebuilder"
I wouldn't be saying this since I'm no fan of re-using old
parts, but
chances are that only the brushes are bad in that alternator. I
bought an
alternator from a local chain store for my prelude back in the day.
they
sold me an inop unit that was shorting out and lucky me *NO RETURNS
ON
ELECTRICAL ITEMS* --ticked me off--- so i ended up overhauling
both
alternators myself... PAIN IN THE ASS... after the suckers were open, I
only
had to swap the brushes out from the new to the old since that's all
that
wore down.<---but this is a skimpy job! I would recommend getting a
new
pulley/bearing kit and a new diode pack as well (this is where
the
full-service alternator rebuilder comes into the picture.)
hope
this helps, and hope i didn't through a wrench into your
plans.
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:23:47
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Krank
vent problem?
I installed krank vents and after the first test drive oil
pressed out around the oil filler cap. This has never happened before. I'm 100%
sure I installed the vents in the right direction (checked like 15 times). Has
anyone else experienced this problem? (I also checked the compression, leak down
and the pistons with a minature camera and found nothing
alarming)
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:26:01
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
wheel stearing...
Hi,
When I installed the Snap off removable
stearing wheel I diconnected and took away the "stearing wheel cartridge" (and
srs computer etc).
I didn't think about that the impulses for the rear
wheel stearing also comes from that cartridge...
So the now I have a few
questions:
How does my rear wheel stearing work now. Offcourse it can't
work like it supposed to but does it sit still or does it move
uncontrolled??
I guess the safest thing is to change the movable parts in
the rear so it's solid instead. Can I use the parts from a newer car or from a
Stealth? Anyone know what parts (part no) I need?
Thanks,
Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:34:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear wheel stearing...
The system has pressure, but nothing
tells it to move now.
On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Mikael Kenson
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> When I installed the Snap off
removable stearing wheel I diconnected and took away the "stearing wheel
cartridge" (and srs computer etc).
>
> I didn't think about that
the impulses for the rear wheel stearing also comes from that
cartridge...
>
> So the now I have a few questions:
>
> How does my rear wheel stearing work now. Offcourse it can't work like
it supposed to but does it sit still or does it move uncontrolled??
>
> I guess the safest thing is to change the movable parts in the rear so
it's solid instead. Can I use the parts from a newer car or from a Stealth?
Anyone know what parts (part no) I need?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:29:45
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krank vent problem?
Nope, no problem so far. The rear is the
large one and the front the small
right ?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I installed krank vents
and after the first test drive oil pressed out
around the oil filler cap.
This has never happened before. I'm 100% sure I
installed the vents in the
right direction (checked like 15 times). Has
anyone else experienced this
problem? (I also checked the compression, leak
down and the pistons with a
minature camera and found nothing alarming)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:00:50
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
wheel stearing...
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 10, 2002 9:34 AM
> The system has pressure, but
nothing tells it to move now.
So is it stable in straight position
or does it move uncontrolled??
/Mikael
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 01:47:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear wheel stearing...
No..itwont move.
On Wed, 10 Jul
2002, Mikael Kenson wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 9:34 AM
>
> > The system has
pressure, but nothing tells it to move now.
>
> So is it
stable in straight position or does it move uncontrolled??
>
>
/Mikael
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:23:07
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear Half Shafts
It should pop right out.
At 12:09 AM
7/10/02 -0400, David Thrower wrote:
>I just pop the shaft out of the diff
with a
>heel bar, or must I remove the cover on the back of the diff and
remove
>something to get the shaft out?
> Thanks in
advance,
> David Thrower
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:29:16
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear wheel stearing...
The rear steering is mechanical. There is
no elec. signal going to any part
of the system. Removing the steering wheel
will have no effect on the
operation of the rear steering
system.
Jack
At 09:26 AM 7/10/02 +0200, Mikael Kenson
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>When I installed the Snap off removable
stearing wheel I diconnected and
>took away the "stearing wheel
cartridge" (and srs computer etc).
>
>I didn't think about that the
impulses for the rear wheel stearing also
>comes from that
cartridge...
>
>So the now I have a few
questions:
>
>How does my rear wheel stearing work now. Offcourse it
can't work like it
>supposed to but does it sit still or does it move
uncontrolled??
>
>I guess the safest thing is to change the movable
parts in the rear so
>it's solid instead. Can I use the parts from a
newer car or from a
>Stealth? Anyone know what parts (part no) I
need?
>
>Thanks,
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 05:58:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Whew!! The idle stepper motor works after all
I went out to check the
hoses and connections before work last night
and nothing seemed to be out of
place. I decided to crack the
throttle and start it and it acted perfectly
fine, just like before.
The idle went to 1200-1300 and came down to 700 once
it got warm. I
drove it to work, 20 miles each way, with no problems. What a
mess,
by the way, from Libertyville Mitsu the motor was $263.94 with
the
3si discount. It was $330 everywhere else. Also they had four of
them
is stock. Can you believe it, a mitsu dealer with a 3000gt part
that
I actually needed. Anyways thanks to everyone that helped me
out.
Casey
Libertyville Mitsubishi, 1-847-816-6660, speak with Ron
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:37:38
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark plus wires at the 60K tune up
Been meaning to
ask......bought a 92 SL recently, and the owner swore that
his mechanics (guy
owns a decent size business that has it's own mechanics
for it's small truck
fleet) did the timing belt.
Question is, is there anyway to tell if it
was done or not? This is one of
those nasty decisions I don't like
making........hundreds of dollars to be
sure vs
thousands.....
Advice?
Thx
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Tuesday,
July 09, 2002 2:56 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark plus wires at
the 60K tune up
also, replace your fuel filter and pour a bottle of
redline SI-1 fuel
injector cleaner down that tank. it'll help get some of
that carbon out of
the engine and perhaps unleash a few HP that you've been
missing?
good luck,
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:53:35
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS
More on the ECS. Note there are no codes being reported
according to the
dealer.
Dealer wants $80 to check it out as
they have to get the manuals out.....
:o(
ECS lights have been of for
a few weeks now, until a long run up to
Gainesville and back (stopped in at
Coach Builders while up there - awesome
news to report later). On the way
back, the Tour light suddenly lit up.
Played with the ECS button and it
switched back and forward OK, although at
95 mph on rough interstate I'm not
sure I could tell the difference in
handling - bit more stable in
Sport.
After a while, the lights started blinking together, and
this went on for
an hour or so until a rest stop. Then I headed off again
(boy I love merging
at 90 - happy memories of Northern Italy and no traffic
cops on the
Interstates except for those doing 35mph looking for wrecks and
lost souls.
First time you pass a cop with an 80 mph passing speed at night
makes you
jump!!!). Worked OK for a while, but then they started flashing
together
again. So question is, does the flashing mean anything, other than a
scr*wed
ECS system?
Cheers
Andre
92 3000GT SL
convertible
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Tuesday, June
25, 2002 4:07 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
You may have a bad electrical
contact on one of the plugs on your struts.
The front ones are easy to get
to. Just removed 3 nuts on the top of the
struts. The rear ones
are a little harder to get to. A few panels have to
come off
first.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:06:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: New timing belt? was: Spark plus wires at the 60K tune
up
I've helped with 1 60k and done my own. The one I
helped with
was a first gen stealth and I have a first
gen vr-4
On both, the old
timing belt had a very hard to read
MD number. It may be stamped or
something, but you
need to hold the belt at an angle to be able to
read
it.
The new belts had the MD number printed on them on
a
colored stripe. Very easy to read.
So, if you pop off the
timing belt covers and can find
a stripe on the belt - good chance it's a new
belt.
Want to be 100 percent sure - change it anyways!
Just
my $.02,
Glenn
- --- Andre Cerri <
cerri@intersystems.com>
wrote:
> Been meaning to ask......bought a 92 SL recently,
> and the
owner swore that
> his mechanics (guy owns a decent size business
that
> has it's own mechanics
> for it's small truck fleet) did the
timing belt.
>
> Question is, is there anyway to tell if it was
done
> or not? This is one of
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:04:57
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Rear wheel stearing...
I can confirm Jack's words. The input
for the rear steering is hydraulic
pressure that comes from the front
steering rack. That pressure signal
actuates the control valve that controls
the motion of the rear wheels.
There are no electromechanical solenoids or
valves. The system is powered
by the hydraulic pump in the rear differential
housing. When the car's
speed becomes high enough, the hydraulic pressure
rises enough to move the
rear wheels up to the angle allowed by the rear
wheel steering actuation
cylinder.
The 3S AWS system is rather
unsophisticated. My '95 R/T TT does not have
rear wheel steering. I wanted to
add AWS to my car but decided against it
after I took my car open tracking
and figured it handles pretty well
without the AWS. Many better handling cars
do not have the AWS. The 3S AWS
is not race-proven and I think the main
reason for its implementation was
marketing. Some people reported unexpected
rear wheel snap, and while it
has not been conclusively traced to the rear
wheel steering, I am now glad
that I do not have it. One less variable to
worry about and less weight
too.
Mikael, if you want to remove the
rear wheel steering, you need to find
the solid links from a '95-'96 Stealth
TT or manufacture them yourself.
These links are just two adjustable length
pullrods.
When you removed the "steering wheel cartridge", you removed
the steering
wheel angle sensor. The only function of that
sensor, that I
know of, is to raise your idle when you turn you steering
wheel while
parking. You Autronic probably has not been using it
anyway.
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------
The rear steering is
mechanical. There is no elec. signal going to any
part
of the system.
Removing the steering wheel will have no effect on the
operation of the rear
steering system.
Jack
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:30:16
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear wheel stearing...
Take a look at the tech information manual at
Jeff's site and it'll tell
you more than you ever wanted to know about rear
steer.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-stim.htmI
'think' that the steering wheel angle sensor is also used to control
the
electronic shocks --- It checks steering wheel velocity to
determine if
you're doing some sporty driving, or maybe just flat
out of
control.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 9:34 AM
>
> > The system has
pressure, but nothing tells it to move now.
>
> So is it
stable in straight position or does it move uncontrolled??
>
>
/Mikael
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:02:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: *GP: Porterfield Brake Sale
Some people have been asking, so I'll
do this again.
Until July 26th only, place ANY order for brake
pads/disks/SS lines, and I
can carry an unusually -low- price for
you.
Payment via paypal or CC only (CC requires that you NOT already have
a
paypal account).
Send Email to
orders@speedtoys.com with a subject like
the one used here.
All orders will be placed immediately, and shipped
immediately. NO
waiting.
My normal prices are already at a
healthy discount, right now I'll take it
a healthy step further.
Merry
Xmas...again. :^)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:13:38
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: *GP: Porterfield Brake Sale
Geoff, I have some questions and
a comments about the Porterfield brake
pads. I feel that I need to share my
experience and alert everybody about
potential problems.
I have the
R-4 racing pads that I bought through you and I like them. The
rear ones came
with wear indicators, but the front ones did not. Not a
problem, since they
are racing pads, but there is some inconsistency.
Then I ordered
something from Porterfield directly and also bought their
R-4S pads. Those
pads were a major problem that also cost me real time and
money. No wear
indicators whatsoever, but that was not the main problem.
The front R-4S
pads did not fit into the calipers when they arrived. They
also looked
differently - only 2 holes on top of each pad instead of the
stock four. When
I filed 0.5 mm off of them they fit, but the clamp that
snaps on top did not
snap well. It felt like it was about to come off on a
first small bump. The
ears around the two missing holes were supporting
the stock pads, but with
those holes and ears missing, the clamps did not
have anything to snap
against. So I installed my old pads back.
I called Porterfield and they
said they would send me the correct pads if
I return the defective ones. I
shipped the pads back and one week later I
received the identical defective
pads with only two holes. I called and
talked to some dude at Porterfield,
who said that their R-4S pads are the
best and that they have to make them
with only two holes and no wear
indicators to keep the cost down. But they
make the R-4 pads with four
holes (and some occasional wear indicators too),
so why can't they use the
same 4-hole backing plate for the R-4S?
I
shipped the R-4S back - both front and rear. First they said they did
not
receive them, but then they found them and I got my money back a month
later.
After a special request they refunded the original shipping that I
paid, but
they refused to reimburse me for the other two return shipping
costs. And
those pads are heavy and expensive to ship. So, in the end, I
lost $36 and
about a month shipping things back and fourth. Bought the
Stillen pads from
Dynamic Racing last week and those seem to be fine. I
have not installed them
yet. I hope they did not send me the 1st gen pads
- - still need to check
that.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:32:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: *GP: Porterfield Brake Sale
Hm..im very sorry you had any
problems at all, its been odd to see any at
all.
In a recent issue, I
had a customer who
1) Got the wrong pads (my fault)
2) Then insisted
the pads he got were always too thick.
PF continued to ship and issue
shipping coupons for pickup..until the
customer realized he had a defective
set of calipers (stuck pistons).
Myself..if Id have dealt with you, Id
have picked up the slack..I have
before, and I always will. Even when
The Wife(tm) sees me dip into the
personal bank account to pay for it..she
knows its the right thing to do.
No on the 2/4 hole issue. You'd
have to remind me what the two inside
holes actually do..because its been so
long I dont remember, they shouldnt
do anything.
On the wear
indicators, im 99.9% sure that the only reason they are there,
is because the
backing plate supplier had them, but did not for the
fronts. Thats just
a WAG (wild assed guess), and I dont know for sure.
On a first-shipment
of a new pad application for PF, I had to do some
grinding (Toyota MR-S) for
about .5mm, but I havent heard any issues since
my first-shipment
experiences.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:37:55
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: *GP: Porterfield Brake Sale
>In a recent issue, I had a
customer who
>
>1) Got the wrong pads (my fault)
>2) Then
insisted the pads he got were always too thick.
My pads were 0.5 mm too
long.
>No on the 2/4 hole issue. You'd have to remind me what
the two inside
>holes actually do..because its been so long I dont
remember, they
shouldnt
>do anything.
Those two inner holes do
not do anything. But those holes are made in two
bosses and the springy plate
snaps against those bosses. I think that
plate keeps the pads from vibrating.
The defective pads did not have those
bosses and the plate was very loose on
the pads. I tried to bend it, but I
still did not fit secure. I did not want
to take any chances with brakes,
so I decided not to use those
pads.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 05:19:52
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Whatever happened to the Plug and Play Coil Upgrade from Summit
Racing
Hi Everyone,
I remember about 6 weeks ago Quite a few
people were looking at the GM??
Coil packs as an alternative to the
combination Accel Motorcycle Coils and
MSD system. Whatever happened to
this idea? If it is a working solution,
could someone post exactly what
we will need to order from Summit (coils and
wiring/adapters). Also
what kind of plug gap are you able to now run @
approx 17lbs
(15+)?
Roger - didn't someone send you a set, or didn't you have one on
order, so
you could do a direct comparison?
Thanks
guys,
Rick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#894
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