Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, June 14
2002 Volume 01 : Number
869
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:56:56 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
No, our cars do not have external wastegates.
They are built into the
turbos.
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------
The problem I have is
on the
AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com,
No,
and Nc. It says when setting up with wastegate to use the Com and
Nc
port but the other setup says to use the Com and No ports, which are
the
ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with nipples in. So I
just
need to know whether I need to move the one nipple to the Nc
port.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:51:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control
Arms
The only downside, is the toe will be off for one of the chosen
settings.
Camber affects toe.
On Mon, 10 Jun 2002, Steve Burrows
wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> We have just introduced adjustable
control arms for the twin turbos. These
> are the upper rear ones
and allow you to get your car's camber back into
> spec regardless of the
suspension upgrades you have done (Eibach, Intrax,
> Ground Control,
Tein, etc). No longer do you have to settle for being a
> degree or
even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the camber straight to
>
prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive! ;-) tire wear.
Another
> advantage gained from the adjustability is you can have
"factory" 0 camber
> setting for around town, then make a quick twist to
draw in the top of the
> wheel to set some negative camber when you head
to the road course or
> autocross. Just mark your settings for
street and track. We have pictures
> and they are available on our
site at
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
> Thanks,
> Steve and EricB
>
> BTW, We will be
releasing these for the NA's very soon.
> BTW2, We recently released
full/stock sized aluminum crank pulleys that
> weight 1.6 pounds, about
1/3 the weight of the stock crank pulley. These
> are available now
and are this month's special. Check them out :-)
>
>
>
3SX Performance Automotive
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com>
Tel: 704-563-7249
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:30:01
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
> The problem I have is on the AVC-R solenoid
box,
> there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com, No,
> and
Nc. It says when setting up with wastegate
> to use the Com and Nc
port but the other setup
> says to use the Com and No ports, which are
the
> ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with
> nipples
in. So I just need to know whether I
> need to move the one nipple
to the Nc port.
I've got the HKS EVC-IV on my car, so I can't just go
out and look. But.... Use whatever configuration is
in the
Apexi manual for internal wastegates (not
External gates). Most of
these controllers use the
Normally Open side so that you get stock boost if
you
turn off the boost controller.
Anyone got the for-sure
answer?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:31:55
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Yeah check page 44 of the online PDF manual for
the AVC-R, I sent the link
+ page # to Josh already........
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:30 PM
>
To: Joshua G. Prince
> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
>
> > The problem I have is on the AVC-R
solenoid box,
> > there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com,
No,
> > and Nc. It says when setting up with wastegate
>
> to use the Com and Nc port but the other setup
> > says to use the
Com and No ports, which are the
> > ports (Com and No) that the
solenoid came with
> > nipples in. So I just need to know whether
I
> > need to move the one nipple to the Nc port.
>
> I've
got the HKS EVC-IV on my car, so I can't just go
> out and look.
But.... Use whatever configuration is
> in the Apexi manual for
internal wastegates (not
> External gates). Most of these
controllers use the
> Normally Open side so that you get stock boost if
you
> turn off the boost controller.
>
> Anyone got the
for-sure answer?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:23:14
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Temperature Gauge?
If one were interested in reading an air
temperature in a car (intake,
engine bay, manifold, etc.), what kind of gauge
would one use?
I see many temperature gauges listed by different
manufacturers, and some
say "Temperature Gauge" and some say "Water/Oil
Temperature Gauge".
Different sites list identical gauges as both "Temp" and
"Oil/Water Temp."
Is the only thing that matters the operating range of the
gauges? I know
that an EGT gauge wouldn't work :-)
For
example, could I use a GReddy 60mm Peak/Hold Temperature Gauge (30C to
150C)
to monitor air temp, or is the sensor designed to only measure
temperatures
of liquids?
Thanks,
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:38:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
All the metal parts is my guess.
On
Mon, 10 Jun 2002
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
wrote:
> In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they
state that our
> cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this
weight comes from.
> Under the car the other day i noticed the gas tank
is metal. but where else
> could the extra poundage be hiding?
>
> thanx
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:30:31
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Top speed
Erin try the FAQ pages at
www.Team3s.com this has most of the answers
you
are looking for.
Also worth asking are you in Europe or in
the land down under? Reason I ask
is I know with some UK cars that have
a speed governor on them..... But
based on the speeds you are seeing I
believe your car just doesn't have
enough HP to overcome its own wind
drag.
The above problem is easy to fix just do the exhaust system mods
and an
intake. If you get really power hungry put larger injectors in
along with
some sort of piggy back fuel controller and then turn up the
boost. Again
if you have questions check the FAQ pages mentioned above
then check with
the list.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Erin Karsan [SMTP:erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr]
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002
4:25 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Top speed
>
>
>
> > I
purchased my lovely car a few months ago. Last day I had a chance to
>
drive
> > may car early in the morning and I was trying its top speed.
It
> acelerated
> > to 152 beautifuly but than it stopped revving
and stayed there. Is it
> > something normal, is it a speed limitter or
is there anything wrong my
> car?
> >
> > I was reaching
to 160 mph with my old impreza turbo easily.
> >
> > I am
going to turn the boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi continuous.
> > Do I
need a modified exhaust (my cats are removed - free flow)? I am
>
really
> > confused because everybody is saying something
different.
> > Which is the best intake for our cars stillen or K&N
FIPK?
> > Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or the other one?
>
> Which is the best electronic boost controller for our cars. Blitz,
HKS
> or
> > AVC-R.
> >
> > When I drive my car
for 15 minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> > smells gasoline
and my fuel consumption is high. My best drive was 220
> mile
> >
with a full tank. Is there anything that I may check or is it something
>
> normal.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Erin
Karsan
> > 94-VR4, cat removed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:09:12
+0000
From:
osk@attbi.comSubject:
Team3S: PST one piece CFDS
Hey everyone,
I'm soliciting factually
based comments on the PST one
piece driveshaft. Is this a good
solution going one
piece? Does it replace the entire stock driveshaft,
or
just portions of it? Are there other brands of CFDS for
our
cars that are better?
Link to Group Buy on 3Si:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=f56c2d09b5c6abd3bd2c0f8c2b57ac20&threadid=84786
Thanks,
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:15:46
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: PST one piece CFDS
I have one and it works
great.
Engine/turbos spool up faster.
Transmission shifts easier
.
Replaces the stock 3 piece drive shaft with a one piece that
has
replaceable U-joints.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
osk@attbi.com [mailto:osk@attbi.com]
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:09 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: PST one piece CFDS
Hey everyone,
I'm soliciting
factually based comments on the PST one
piece driveshaft. Is this a
good solution going one
piece? Does it replace the entire stock
driveshaft, or
just portions of it? Are there other brands of CFDS for
our cars that are better?
Link to Group Buy on 3Si:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=f56c2d09b5c6abd3bd2c0f8c2b57ac20&threadid=84786
Thanks,
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:31:39
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil
Just a quick question:
I'm changing the oil today and
I need to know wow much oil do I to put
in? I have a number in my head,
but I wanna be exact on this. Thanks.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:35:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil
Till its full.
Twas what God invented the dipstick
for.
No..honestly..theres no good exact number..start at 4..maybe
5. But check
the dipstick.
On Thu, 13 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay
wrote:
> Just a quick question:
>
> I'm changing the oil
today and I need to know wow much oil do I to put
> in? I have a
number in my head, but I wanna be exact on this. Thanks.
>
>
-Brad
> 97 VR-4
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and
race them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:36:45
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
I tried swapping out the MAS
at lunch time today, with no luck. I'm going
to use the S-AFC to check
the Karman frequency at a number of different RPM
points, just to be sure
that my MAF isn't marginal.
- - Brian
> >
> >
Borrow a MAS from someone. It only takes a couple of minutes
> > to
swap the
> > MAS with the filter (or the filter box) attached.
>
> I know a certain someone who has a wrecked '95 Black VR-4
> that
hasn't been
> sent to it's new owner yet...I think I'll sneak over and try
> swapping the
> MAS tonight after he's asleep.
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:37
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
I'm a little confused about the part
numbers...
The team3s website lists the number for the crankshaft pulley
holder
(end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is telling me isn't
a
valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming is MD996958
isn't
valid either...
Can anyone chime in here?
I'm in the
middle of the service and stuck w/o that stupid piece of
metal. I've tried
just using a ratchet and an 8mm socket, but broke the
socket, so I'd like to
try the real thing...
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 vr4 on the
operating table
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jim Elferdink
Sent: Tuesday,
June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
To: Alex Pedenko; Team 3S--Post
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60k tools
The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for removing the
harmonic
balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an impact--but for
torquing
it
with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If you don't
have an
impact,
then you'll certainly want it for removal as
well.
Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them
from
Miller
Special Tools (1-800-801-5420,
www.spxmiller.com). There prices
and
availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner,
MD998767
is
$16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹
(they call it a
spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about
a year ago.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim
Elferdink
95 VR4
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> To: "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm getting ready
to do the 60k on my vr4. When I was buying the
> special tools from mitsu,
they told me that I don't really need the
end
> yoke holder and that
their techs don't use it. I didn't want to spend
> $50 on a tool that I
won't need, but we all know how accurate and
> knowledgeable satan's
cronies are... so could anyone confirm or deny
> that? Do I need to run
out and get it, or am I fine w/o it.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:12:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
I've had no luck with miller either. If anyone
gets
their part number/price please post.
here is a page that shows
how to make a tool if you
have access to a welder:
http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/12SpecialTools1.htmlI've
also heard of people welding pins onto a big
honkin pair of channel lock
pliers. Has anyone here
done that?
Glenn
'93 VR-4 w/60k parts
on order
- --- Alex Pedenko <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> I'm a little confused about the part numbers...
>
>
The team3s website lists the number for the
> crankshaft pulley
holder
> (end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is
> telling
me isn't a
> valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming
> is
MD996958 isn't
> valid either...
>
> Can anyone chime in
here?
>
> I'm in the middle of the service and stuck w/o
that
> stupid piece of
> metal. I've tried just using a ratchet and
an 8mm
> socket, but broke the
> socket, so I'd like to try the real
thing...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95
vr4 on the operating table
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com>
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Jim Elferdink
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko; Team
3S--Post
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> The end-yoke
holder is required, not so much for
> removing the harmonic
>
balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an
> impact--but for
torquing
> it
> with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If
you
> don't have an
> impact,
> then you'll certainly want it
for removal as well.
>
> Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre
better off
> buying them from
> Miller
> Special Tools
(1-800-801-5420,
www.spxmiller.com).
> There prices
and
> availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The
>
Tensioner, MD998767
> is
> $16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which
really works
> ‹ (they call it a
> spanner wrench), 6958 is
$24.09. These prices are
> from about a year ago.
>
>
-------------------------------------------
> Jim Elferdink
>
> 95 VR4
>
> > From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
> >
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> > To: "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> > Subject:
Team3S: 60k tools
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
>
> I'm getting ready to do the 60k on my vr4. When I
> was buying
the
> > special tools from mitsu, they told me that I
> don't
really need the
> end
> > yoke holder and that their techs don't
use it. I
> didn't want to spend
> > $50 on a tool that I won't
need, but we all know
> how accurate and
> > knowledgeable
satan's cronies are... so could
> anyone confirm or deny
> >
that? Do I need to run out and get it, or am I
> fine w/o it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alex.
> >
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 19:27:53
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 60k tools
Ok, I am confussed now,, Why is this seeming so
hard,, I have had my timming
belt off 4 times in the last 2 months becasue of
bending a rod, then
throwing a cam gear becasue i forgot to torque it. and
when I put the belt
back on,, This is my process. lined up the timming marks
on one head, both
cam gears,, put the belt on them and used ZIP ties to hold
the belt steady
and the gears together so that they do not spin. then I do
the second head
same way. using alot of ZIP ties to ensure the belt does not
move and the
gears stay lined up. then on the bottom i route the belt as
needed. i took
out the tensoner ram and forced it back in with a vice moving
very slowely
as not to blow out the ram and using a really small alen wrench
to hold the
ram closed, When it comes down the the pully, it will swivel on
an oval
shape. I used a pry bar to hold it back towards the hydralic ram and
used 2
allen wrenches to hold the pulley in posistion while tighting the
bolt. I am
giving this information to those that do not have the tool or the
patience
to find one,, Me I am guilty of the second one. when I am done and
pull the
pin in the hydralic ram.. i make sure I can reisert it and that
tells me the
pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP ties and was
good to go..
If any have comments on this i am open to all
critisism.
Jerry.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn amy"
<
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
To:
"Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>; "'Jim
Elferdink'"
<
macintosh@sunra.com>; "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
June 13, 2002 7:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
> I've had
no luck with miller either. If anyone gets
> their part number/price
please post.
>
> here is a page that shows how to make a tool if
you
> have access to a welder:
>
>
http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/12SpecialTools1.html>
>
I've also heard of people welding pins onto a big
> honkin pair of channel
lock pliers. Has anyone here
> done that?
>
>
Glenn
> '93 VR-4 w/60k parts on order
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:44:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
That makes absolute sense, thanks Jeff,
thanks all!
Any ideas why my fuel cut pressure level keeps
moving
downward? In other words, I used to be able to push
1.25-1.30
bar w/o cut, now its even doing it around
1.15. Have I hurt the engine
at all by doing this?
Ken
- --- Jeff Lucius <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
> >>Welcome to the fuel cutoff!
> >> (You forgot
to upgrage your fuel system)
>
> Fuel cut has nothing to do with
the fuel system!
> Well not directly.
> Indirectly, when larger
injectors are installed and
> the stock ECM is retained,
> an
airflow signal conditioner (AFC, ARC2, VPC)
> reduces the airflow signal
> (compared to actual) and this reduces chances for
> fuel cut
(item 2 below).
>
> The ECM, not the fuel injectors or fuel pump,
causes
> fuel cut by temporarily
> halting the injector driver
signal (the 0 ms reading
> on the logger). The ECM
> does this in
response to the following 3 situations.
> 1) The engine speed exceeds
~7500 RPM (overrun
> protection).
> 2) The A/N (basically airflow
per cylinder per
> revolution) reaches or exceeds
> the prescribed
value (overboost protection).
> 3) The throttle plate is closed during
engine
> deceleration above a certain
> speed (improves emissions
and fuel economy).
>
> More discussion on my web page
below:
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm>
> FWIW, the stock boost gauge reports A/N, not boost
> (despite the
markings).
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:29
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
I just went back to my receipt from SPX/ Miller Special
Tools. I'll
reiterate what I said in my earlier
message:
MLR-MD998767 Wrench, timing belt
$16.80 (this is the tensioner)
MLR-6958 Spanner
wrench $24.09 (this is the end yoke holder)
Miller
treated me just fine--I had the tools in about four days.
-
-------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
>
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:37 -0500
> To: "'Jim Elferdink'" <
macintosh@sunra.com>, "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
> I'm a little confused about the part
numbers...
>
> The team3s website lists the number for the
crankshaft pulley holder
> (end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller
is telling me isn't a
> valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming
is MD996958 isn't
> valid either...
>
> Can anyone chime in
here?
>
> I'm in the middle of the service and stuck w/o that
stupid piece of
> metal. I've tried just using a ratchet and an 8mm
socket, but broke the
> socket, so I'd like to try the real
thing...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95
vr4 on the operating table
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Jim Elferdink
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko; Team
3S--Post
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> The end-yoke
holder is required, not so much for removing the harmonic
> balancer
bolt--you can do that easily with an impact--but for torquing
> it
>
with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If you don't have an
>
impact,
> then you'll certainly want it for removal as well.
>
> Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them
from
> Miller
> Special Tools (1-800-801-5420,
www.spxmiller.com). There prices and
>
availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner, MD998767
>
is
> $16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹ (they
call it a
> spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about a
year ago.
>
> -------------------------------------------
>
Jim Elferdink
>
> 95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:22:52
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FS GT Pro 357 Turbos
For Sale: A set of GT Pro 357
Turbos. These turbos were on my car for
about 1 year. I'm asking
$1800 without a core charge! They are in perfect
condition, no problems
at all with the turbos. Please email me privately if
you are interested
(off the list).
Thanks,
Rich Fowler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 02:22:29
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
> i make sure I can reisert it and that tells me
the
> pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP
> ties and
was good to go..
> If any have comments on this i am open to all
>
critisism.
I do mine the same way, without the special tool. One
important thing to note though is that if you do it
this way, you need
to rotate the timing belt with the
crank pulley a few times around then let
it sit for
about 10-15 minutes and make sure you can still get the
allen
wrench back through the tensioner rod hole
easily. If you can - you
are in business. If you
can't - then you need to try retensioning
again. On my
last adjustment I usually let it sit about 30 minutes
and retest for good measure.
I use large clips to hold the belts, but
I'm sure tie
wraps work fine too.
Done it this way on many Eclipses,
Talons, Lasers and
several 3/S cars over the last 8 years or so - no
problems at all yet.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:34:46
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
My biggest concern at this point is removing the
crankshaft pulley. I've
managed to keep it in place w/o the end yoke holder
(a combination of
wood, allen wrenches and the lever from my jack) but now
the problem is
that the engine starts lifting up. I have the crankshaft
pulley
positioned so that the holes for the holder are lined up
horizontally.
Then I basically put an allen wrench into the hole and support
it from
below so that it makes contact with the ground and stands there at a
90
degree angle. Once I start to undo the bolt, the whole
contraption
prevents the pulley from spinning. But now, the engine is moving
up!
I've sprayed half a can of wd-40 on there and am basically
stuck...
Any suggestions?
Alex.
'95 vr4 on the operating
table
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
mjannusch@attbi.comSent: Thursday,
June 13, 2002 9:22 PM
To: Jerry B.
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k
tools
> i make sure I can reisert it and that tells me the
>
pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP
> ties and was good to
go..
> If any have comments on this i am open to all
>
critisism.
I do mine the same way, without the special tool. One
important thing to note though is that if you do it
this way, you need
to rotate the timing belt with the
crank pulley a few times around then let
it sit for
about 10-15 minutes and make sure you can still get the
allen
wrench back through the tensioner rod hole
easily. If you can - you
are in business. If you
can't - then you need to try retensioning
again. On my
last adjustment I usually let it sit about 30 minutes
and retest for good measure.
I use large clips to hold the belts, but
I'm sure tie
wraps work fine too.
Done it this way on many Eclipses,
Talons, Lasers and
several 3/S cars over the last 8 years or so - no
problems at all yet.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:03:45
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
I purchased an eibach pro-kit
last week, and now I want to have them put on.
I went to one shop that said
that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small of a spring, and then I
went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars, and they said that it
would take 20 man-hours and cost 600-800
dollars!! I feel this is WAY
too much money for this job...and that didn't
include a $120 alignment
fee!!!!! I am basically all out of options
here.... what should it cost
for someone to do this? and how long should it
take? I also have no
idea where to even start looking to have this done....
looks like I am going
to have to travel to a bigger city.... please
help.
Desperate,
Brent H.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:05:29
-0500
From: Michael Provence <
MProvence@gencofcu.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
I was given similar information from a
dealership. They use a large pry bar
for the tensioner and an air
impact wrench to overcome the pulley (spin it
fast enough that it will
tighten). Of course this requires an air
compressor. Apparently
they do this on a regular basis but if this does not
seem advisable LET ME
KNOW. I am gearing up for the big 120k service.
Nothing like a seized
ac compressor to put the fear in you.
Mike
94 3000GT
NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:05:10
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
Alex:
WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight
because it was torqued on
tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on
just as tight when you put
it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and
buy the darn tool.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim
Elferdink
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:13:17
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
The tool isn't the problem any more - from the 60k
instructions on the
team3s website, Rich says to brace the tool against the
car frame which
would produce the same result - since the bolt won't budge,
it just
pushes the block up. I got an 18" ratchet with a 1/2" drive I turn
the
thing a good 30 degrees. It just comes right back when I let go. At
this
point I'm ready to go out and buy a compressor. I still end up
saving
$3-400 over having it done at the crappership... Unless somebody has
any
other suggestions?
Am I wrong about the tool? Would the real thing
prevent the block from
moving?
Thanks,
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:22:17
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko"
<
apedenko@earthlink.net>
> I'm
a little confused about the part numbers...
> The Team3S website lists the
number for the crankshaft pulley holder (end
yoke holder) as MD990767-01,
which miller is telling me isn't a valid
number. The number below, which I'm
assuming is MD996958 isn't valid
either...
> Can anyone chime in
here?
- ---------------snip----------->
We've updated Rich Leroy's
60k page on the Team3S site, based on Jim
Elferdink's post with the correct
numbers from his Miller receipt:
MLR-MD998767 Wrench, timing belt
$16.80 (this is the tensioner)
MLR-6958 Spanner wrench
$24.09 (this is the end yoke holder)
There is another alternative for the
tensioner tool offered on the
3SXPerformance website for ~$20;
www.3SXPerformance.com.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:31:47
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
The best way to hook up the SAVC-R solenoid is as
follows:
Replace the "H" connector with a Tee. Plug off the hose that
goes down to
the rear intake hose. Two of the Tee barbs should connect
to the two hoses
going to each of the wastegates. The third barb on the
Tee should connect
to the COM (common) barb on the SAVC-R Solenoid. The
NO (normally open)
barb should connect directly to the back of the
Y-pipe. As the solenoid
cycles, the wastegates will alternately see
manifold pressure and atmosphere
(since the wastegates are connected to the
COMmon port).
Good luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>; <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
Cc:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i
AVC-R
> Matt, that is perfect, I understand that. The problem I
have is on the
> AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3
connections, Com, No,
> and Nc. It says when setting up with
wastegate to use the Com and Nc
> port but the other setup says to use the
Com and No ports, which are the
> ports (Com and No) that the solenoid
came with nipples in. So I just
> need to know whether I need to
move the one nipple to the Nc port. In
> my last email I said about
connecting to the bottom and top of the
> wastegate, which is what the
manual says when doing the wastegate setup.
> I was assuming since our
cars had wastegates that I was to follow the
> wastegate
instructions. Thanks again for everyone's assistance, sorry
> to be
a bother.
>
> Joshua Prince
> 97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
> 3SI#0136
> Microsoft Certified System Engineer
>
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 23:46:51
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
Cost me $60 for a spring
compressor (you can rent them most places for
even cheaper), and about 5
hours worth of my time... An impact wrench
and a air compressor plus a
few sockets and such is all ya need...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Hawkinson's
Sent: Tuesday,
June 11, 2002 6:04 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit
I purchased an eibach pro-kit
last week, and now I want to have them put
on.
I went to one shop that
said that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small of a spring, and then
I went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars, and they said that it
would take 20 man-hours and cost
600-800
dollars!! I feel this is
WAY too much money for this job...and that
didn't
include a $120 alignment
fee!!!!! I am basically all out of options
here.... what should it cost
for someone to do this? and how long should
it
take? I also have no
idea where to even start looking to have this
done....
looks like I am
going to have to travel to a bigger city....
please
help.
Desperate,
Brent H.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:01:12
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: PST
one piece CFDS
Thanks Jim. Anyone else have comments. Is this
better/worse/as good as the
APCT drive shaft?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Thursday,
June 13, 2002 5:16 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: PST one piece CFDS
I have one and it works
great.
Engine/turbos spool up faster.
Transmission shifts easier
.
Replaces the stock 3 piece drive shaft with a one piece that
has
replaceable U-joints.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:42:08
-0400
From: Steve Burrows <
3SX@BellSouth.net>
Subject: Team3S:
3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control Arms
Hey
everyone,
We have just introduced adjustable control arms for the twin
turbos. These
are the upper rear ones and allow you to get your car's
camber back into
spec regardless of the suspension upgrades you have done
(Eibach, Intrax,
Ground Control, Tein, etc). No longer do you have to
settle for being a
degree or even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the
camber straight to
prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive!
;-) tire wear. Another
advantage gained from the adjustability
is you can have "factory" 0 camber
setting for around town, then make a
quick twist to draw in the top of the
wheel to set some negative camber when
you head to the road course or
autocross. Just mark your settings for
street and track. We have pictures
and they are available on our site
at
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
Thanks,
Steve and EricB
BTW, We will be releasing these for the
NA's very soon.
BTW2, We recently released full/stock sized aluminum crank
pulleys that
weight 1.6 pounds, about 1/3 the weight of the stock crank
pulley. These
are available now and are this month's special.
Check them out :-)
3SX Performance Automotive
http://www.3SXPerformance.comTel:
704-563-7249
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:36:35
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
Use an impact wrench to take that thing off...
Works wonders...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Thursday,
June 13, 2002 9:35 PM
To:
mjannusch@attbi.com; 'Jerry B.'
Cc:
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
My biggest concern at this
point is removing the crankshaft pulley. I've
managed to keep it in place w/o
the end yoke holder (a combination of
wood, allen wrenches and the lever from
my jack) but now the problem is
that the engine starts lifting up. I have the
crankshaft pulley
positioned so that the holes for the holder are lined up
horizontally.
Then I basically put an allen wrench into the hole and support
it from
below so that it makes contact with the ground and stands there at a
90
degree angle. Once I start to undo the bolt, the whole
contraption
prevents the pulley from spinning. But now, the engine is moving
up!
I've sprayed half a can of wd-40 on there and am basically
stuck...
Any suggestions?
Alex.
'95 vr4 on the operating
table
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:53:41
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
Polishing shouldn’t be a problem,
it’s only a long process and I’m sure that
almost every one of us as
polished something at one time.
For the ports, I’ll port match them,
which it shouldn’t be too hard, as our
heads and intake are aluminium.
To
port match you need to have a new gasket for the port you want to match
and
then using that gasket to match the ports.
This is a bit long to explain,
I’ve got all kinds of book at home.
Here’s a link on how to port.
http://www.60degreev6.com/articles/perf/general/portpolish.htmlI
don’t need to flow bench the head, as the shop around here have noting to
compare them with and the # that I’ll get from them is no good to
me.
It’s not like I want to make heads and sale them with a guaranteed HP
gain,
then you need to flow test your head to make sure they’re all the
same, I
just want to improve the flow of my heads.
Ok, when I’m done
there might be a bit of difference, between each cylinder,
but it’s still
going to be an improvement over stock!
>From:
mjannusch@attbi.com>To: "Marc
Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
>CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
>Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:16:33
+0000
>
> > The port and polish I’ll do my
self!
>
>Good luck trying to do it right without a flow
bench.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:14:08
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A good siteon how to Port match.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:33:50
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MDP????
Does anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential
(P)ressure sensor does?
I just recently had the CE light come on and
expecting the O2 sensor
malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas
recirculation malfunction. Just
wondering if it something I can live
with or is it something that needs
immediate
attention?
TIA,
Francis
'96 RT/TT
List of mods in case
it is relevant:
- -- Apex AVC-R
- -- Apex SAFC
- -- Apex EL Boost
Gauge
- -- RC ENG 550's
- -- 2 ARM-1 A/F Gauges
- -- Spearco WI
- --
Magnacore wires
- -- RPS TCC
- -- HKS MegaFlow intake
- -- Freeflow
precats
- -- Goodridge Steel Braided Brake Lines
- -- Porterfield
Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors w/R4S pads
- -- 1G DSM BOV
- -- Ground Control
springs
- -- Supra Fuel Pump
- -- Stillen DP
- -- Borla
Exhaust
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:39:25
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: MDP????
It sounds like something "Ruiner" had a problem
with. I search 3si for it.
I'm pretty sure it's the same thing.
Dan
Johnson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
To:
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 11, 2002 6:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: MDP????
> Does
anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential (P)ressure
sensor
does?
> I just recently had the CE light come on and expecting
the O2 sensor
> malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas recirculation
malfunction. Just
> wondering if it something I can live with or is
it something that needs
> immediate attention?
>
>
TIA,
>
> Francis
> '96 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:30:21
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil
The number for my 1st gen and 2nd gen has ALWAYS been 4
quarts with the
filter change. The oil pan is dented on my 2nd gen, so
yours might need
more. Flash has all sorts of opinions on this
topic. I'm sure he will
chime in ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bradford J. Gay
[SMTP:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 5:32
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Oil
>
> Just a quick
question:
>
> I'm changing the oil today and I need to know wow
much oil do I to put
> in? I have a number in my head, but I wanna
be exact on this. Thanks.
>
> -Brad
> 97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 13:39:44
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
>>For the ports, I’ll port
match them, which it shouldn’t be
>> too hard, as our heads and intake
are aluminium.
"Aluminium"? No Yankee bloke would say that!
:)
Don't forget to match exhaust manifolds ports to the heads. The front
exhaust
manifold is steel and the rear one is cast iron.
Pics of
exhaust manifolds (these are not the ones installed on my engine):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-exhmans.htmConsider
matching the plenum to intake manifold ports also.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
To:
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 14, 2002 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT
engine??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:11:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil
Nope. Nothing to add, Chuck. Sorry to burst your
bubble.
<grin> I'd be happy to add. Books sometimes say
the dipstick reading
at cold will be different than the hot reading.
The book also says it
is 5 quarts but I can't figure out where that last
quart goes? 4 with a
filter change usually takes it good enough.
Maybe an old quart has the
oil in more of the passages and a new quart hasn't
had time to get it in
there yet.
I usually put in 3 quarts easily,
start the 4th quart, pour in half,
check the dipstick, start the car for a
little bit, shut it off, check
the dipstick. Sometimes it is full now
and sometimes adding the last
half quart fills it to just over the full
mark. Then running it around
town gets the oil cooler kicked in (which
oil only goes through there
after it reaches a certain temp I believe).
Check the oil again and it
sits just about on the full mark. Good
enough for me.
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/AmsoilI've
been experimenting since March with Amsoil in the car thanks to
Paul Tackett
on the list. Follow the link above to read a lil' about
what I've done
and then some links to Amsoil's online store if you are
interested in buying
some yourself (they also have products that are
similar to WD-40, Rain-X,
SimpleGreen, etc.). The oil is more
"slippery" I believe which means if
you have a small blow-by or small
leak then it may leak more than a thicker
oil but is also means that I
have found virtually no lifter tick in my car
since switching.
I have 10W-30 synthetic in my car now and have ordered
some 20W-50
synthetic racing oil for my friend's Ferrari 512TR at the
track. If
that keeps his oil temps down (more so than the other 20W-50
he was
using) then I'll be happy. Of course, if I find that more oil
leaks
when I use Amsoil or things don't work so well I will certainly
complain
to the list too.
There are more things here so just
ask. I'll be out of town but will be
on my web account (
darren@schilberg.com) if anyone has
questions. It
would be neat if others with this dreaded lifter tick
could chime in and
run some Amsoil through their car for 1,000 miles or so
and see if there
is any change.
There Chuck ... is that better?
Thanks for giving me the chance.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002
09:30
The number for my 1st gen and 2nd gen has ALWAYS been 4
quarts with the
filter change. The oil pan is dented on my 2nd gen, so
yours might need
more. Flash has all sorts of opinions on this
topic. I'm sure he will
chime in ...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:19:52
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
Sorry,
me French
Canadian!
I was planning on porting everything from the intake plenum to
the exhaust
manifolds.
Thanks Jeff
- --------
92 Stealth R/T TT
with 150KM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:31:33
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Temperature Gauge?
I think the only real difference between Water
or Oil temp gauges will be
the max temp on the gauge.
You could use
one designed for liquids to monitor air temps, although I
suspect the
response time will be slower. Plus - mechanic temp gauges would
be a
PITA to run the lines, and with electric temp gauges you'd have to
figure out
some way to rig up the sending unit.
As an alternative - (and don't
laugh) consider this:
The PC Modding community uses LCD temp gauges all
the time to monitor air
temps. These are cheap, and would be very easy
to install the wiring. They
are basically a small LCD display with a
wire with a temperature probe on
the end. This would be easy to insert
into an air stream (like in the IC
piping?) and anywhere else in the engine
bay. You can get a 2 LCD setup for
about $20.
You would need to
construct some kind of panel to mount them (they are
rectangular 2" by 1",
usually). Some have backlighting or you could rig that
up
yourself.
Extreme Gauge Monitoring for Geeks:
They make a thing
designed for PC's called a Digital Doc 5. This is a 2" by
1" LCD
display that monitors 8 different temperature probes that you could
run all
over your engine compartment. (Its about $70, I think). You
can
preset limits for each probe and it will beep and show a read-out when
one
of the temps goes over the preset limit. Otherwise it just reads
each probe
about once per second and displays each temp on the
LCD.
Now - here's the cool part. The thing is actually designed to
activate a
12v PC fan when a probe detects a limit has been reached.
You could use
this to activate LED's instead of 12v fans. So you could
create a panel to
mount a bank of say 4 LED's for:
Pre-IC Internal Air
Temp
Post-IC Internal Air Temp
Engine Bay Temp
Intake Manifold Surface
Temp
When the unit detected that one of the temps was over the limit you
set it
would activate the LED.
Maybe I'm getting carried away.
It is Friday after all. If anyone's
interested I'll send a link to the
units I'm talking about.
Steve C.
92 Stealth RT TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 5:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Temperature
Gauge?
> If one were interested in reading an air temperature in a car
(intake,
> engine bay, manifold, etc.), what kind of gauge would one
use?
>
> I see many temperature gauges listed by different
manufacturers, and some
> say "Temperature Gauge" and some say "Water/Oil
Temperature Gauge".
> Different sites list identical gauges as both "Temp"
and "Oil/Water Temp."
> Is the only thing that matters the operating range
of the gauges? I know
> that an EGT gauge wouldn't work
:-)
>
> For example, could I use a GReddy 60mm Peak/Hold Temperature
Gauge (30C to
> 150C) to monitor air temp, or is the sensor designed to
only measure
> temperatures of liquids?
>
> Thanks,
>
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:57:48
-0400
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S:
To sell or not to sell
I have a 92 Stealth R/T TT. Recently my wife
and I have had a new addition
to the family, so the Stealth has had to move a
notch down the list of
priorities. For the first time since I bought it
many years ago, I’m
considering selling it.
The only problem is the
second gear synchro. It shifts fine from first to
second for normal driving,
but if it’s turning 7000 RPMs it won’t shift into
second.
Two
questions:
1. What’s it worth?
2. Should I replace second gear synchro
or sell as is?
It’s black with beige interior in excellent condition. The
paint is a couple
of years old and was done very well and very expensive.
Here is a list of
all the mods:
15G turbos
HKS 550cc
injectors
ARC-2 fuel controller
HKS high flow fuel pump
HKS
EVC-IV
HKS Intercoolers
2nd gen DSM BOV
NGK copper plugs 1 heat range
colder
Magnecor Wires
Centerforce clutch
Aluminum flywheel
HKS dual
tip cat back exhaust
Stillen down pipe
Random Technologies catalytic
converter
Busher test pipe (replaces catalytic converter)
Gutted
pre-cats
K&N filter
Ground control coil-overs 550# front, 400# rear
(adjusted using wheel scales
and rear suspension mod to –1 degree camber all
around)
Cusco rear strut tower brace
Stillen cross-drilled vented
rotors
Metal matrix brake pads (with extra sets)
Goodridge Stainless Steel
Brake Lines
Speed bleeder screws on the calipers
Motul brake
fluid
Fittipaldi Tubolare 18” rims
Sumotomo HTRZ-II tires
245-45-18
Palm M100 with Pocketlogger software
I think that’s it, I
might be missing some things.
Thanks in advance for your
advice,
Mark Creekmore
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:04:23
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
//Alex:
//WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt
is tight because it was torqued on
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque
it back on just as tight when you
//put
//it back together. Save yourself
a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.
anyone try a strap wrench for
this yet? I have used one on two different
V8's to hold the harmonic balancer
while torquing it down. works great. I
haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet
besides electrical repair so It's
great reading all the posts. you guys are a
great resource.
93 3000GTSL stock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:11:13
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?
Hey, you are not the only one here who is
getting carried away. :-)
Send the link to the list please.
Thanks.
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe I'm
getting carried away. It is Friday after all. If
anyone's
interested I'll send a link to the units I'm talking
about.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:27:52
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: To sell or not to sell
1. Can't help on the value
2. I'd
say sell as-is with full disclosure. Especially if you are not
able
to do the work yourself. If you have to send it out you won't
increase the
value by the amount you pay to fix it.
My
$0.02:
Anyone thinking of buying it that understands the rest of the
upgrades
you've done shouldn't be scared off by a failing synchro. The
kind of
person that would be bothered by the synchro would also probably
not
understand the value of your mods. "Hey - I saw another
92 for sale for
only $8k last week - and its transmission was fine. You
are asking way too
much"
3. For consideration - fast forward 5
years: "I used to have a Stealth TT
with major mods, I wish I would
have never sold it.....what was I
thinking?."
Steve C.
92 Stealth
R/T TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 14, 2002 10:57 AM
Subject: Team3S: To sell or not to
sell
> I have a 92 Stealth R/T TT. Recently my wife and I
have had a new
addition
> to the family, so the Stealth has had to move
a notch down the list of
> priorities. For the first time since I
bought it many years ago, I'm
> considering selling it.
>
>
<SNIP>
>
> 1. What's it worth?
> 2. Should I replace
second gear synchro or sell as is?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:18:57
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Temperature Gauge?
Dual LCD temp displays: The LCD's just
pop out of the enclosure and you'd
throw the rest away.
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5220
Single
LCD:
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5230
8
sensor LCD with programmable limit alarm Digital Doc 5. This could
be
hacked to nicely fit into a DIN panel with LED's as part of the
bezel.
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=PC5235
I
think most of these only go up to 212F/100C, not sure how hot the internal
IC
charge gets (which is one of the things I assume would be handy to
monitor)
but I doubt it is over 212F.
BTW - I've used the vendor in the link above
before and IMHO they are
trustworthy.
Steve C.
92 R/T TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
"SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, June
14, 2002 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Temperature
Gauge?
>
> Hey, you are not the only one here who is getting
carried away. :-)
> Send the link to the list please.
Thanks.
>
> Philip
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Maybe I'm getting carried away. It is Friday after all. If
anyone's
> interested I'll send a link to the units I'm talking
about.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:37:55
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?
with 8 probes 2 could go to the front
& back of the radiator as well. Test
heat rise under different
conditions. gauge performance agianst ambiant
temp. A subject that probably
bores most of you but those of us that live in
REALLY hot climates drive with
one eye permenantly on the heat gauge.
Pete Rivenburg
Phoenix,
AZ
93 3000GTSL stock. (for now ;-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:40:55
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: To sell or not to sell
>
>3. For consideration -
fast forward 5 years: "I used to have a Stealth TT
>with major mods,
I wish I would have never sold it.....what was
I
>thinking?."
>
>Steve C.
Steve offers EXTREMELY
GOOD ADVICE!
I sold a BSA motorcycle 32 years ago when I got
married, and I haven't had another bike since. We stopped pro rallying in
1975 to have kids, and never got back to it.
You will find, as the kids
come along and need shoes, you will never again have the money or opportunity to
buy or build another Stealth. This goes for all of a guy's toys (sorry, ladies)
including bikes, boats, sports cars, race cars, guns, and so on.
If
possible, find a way to keep it. Store in a garage somewhere if need
be.
Rich/slow old poop
speaking from experience.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:19:00
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question
Hey, I wanted to first off
thank everyone for their help with the AVC-R,
I really appreciated it and it
is finally in. Man, it is SO much nicer
to use then the HKS EVC.
Anyway, Dave Black had emailed me with the
settings he had used for
his. I set it up with all those settings but
in first gear I am only
getting .62 2nd .70 and 3rd .75 or so. I
haven't fully opened it up in
the higher gears cause I was trying to set
everything up. I am going to
list all the parameters and see if anyone
can give me any ideas as to why I
am not at .95. Thanks again
Setting B:
Boost: .95
Duty: ***
Duty %
@rpm:
2500: 65%
3000:
65%
3500: 66%
4000:
68%
4500: 70%
5000:
72%
5500: 72%
6000:
65%
NE Point: 2500-6000rpm
F/B Speed: 9 9 6 3 3
Learn: X X X
X X
Start Duty: 0%
Etc.
Car select: 6cyl
4spd Thr top right arrow
Sens. Sel.
1. Relative
1
2. Relative
2
3. Absolute
1
4. Absolute
2
Gear
judge:
1.
107
2.
063
3.
041
4.
030
5.
023
N/S
255
Graph
Scale:
Boost:
2.0kg/cm^2
NE
6000rpm
Sp 180km/h
Joshua
Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft
Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:53:13
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: No Boost
I got the AVC-R installed, but the solenoid isn't
working whatsoever.
I've checked the vacuum lines and the electrical
harnesses. If the ECU
is wired wrong, could that be affecting
it?
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#869
***************************************