Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Friday, June 14 2002     Volume 01 : Number 869




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:56:56 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

No, our cars do not have external wastegates. They are built into the
turbos.

Philip

- -------------------------------------------------

The problem I have is on the
AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com, No,
and Nc.  It says when setting up with wastegate to use the Com and Nc
port but the other setup says to use the Com and No ports, which are the
ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with nipples in.  So I just
need to know whether I need to move the one nipple to the Nc port.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:51:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control Arms

The only downside, is the toe will be off for one of the chosen settings.

Camber affects toe.

On Mon, 10 Jun 2002, Steve Burrows wrote:

> Hey everyone,
> We have just introduced adjustable control arms for the twin turbos.  These
> are the upper rear ones and allow you to get your car's camber back into
> spec regardless of the suspension upgrades you have done (Eibach, Intrax,
> Ground Control, Tein, etc).  No longer do you have to settle for being a
> degree or even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the camber straight to
> prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive! ;-)  tire wear.  Another
> advantage gained from the adjustability is you can have "factory" 0 camber
> setting for around town, then make a quick twist to draw in the top of the
> wheel to set some negative camber when you head to the road course or
> autocross.  Just mark your settings for street and track.  We have pictures
> and they are available on our site at
> http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp .
> Thanks,
> Steve and EricB
>
> BTW, We will be releasing these for the NA's very soon.
> BTW2, We recently released full/stock sized aluminum crank pulleys that
> weight 1.6 pounds, about 1/3 the weight of the stock crank pulley.  These
> are available now and are this month's special.  Check them out :-)
>
>
> 3SX Performance Automotive
> http://www.3SXPerformance.com
> Tel: 704-563-7249

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:30:01 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

> The problem I have is on the AVC-R solenoid box,
> there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com, No,
> and Nc.  It says when setting up with wastegate
> to use the Com and Nc port but the other setup
> says to use the Com and No ports, which are the
> ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with
> nipples in.  So I just need to know whether I
> need to move the one nipple to the Nc port.

I've got the HKS EVC-IV on my car, so I can't just go
out and look.  But....  Use whatever configuration is
in the Apexi manual for internal wastegates (not
External gates).  Most of these controllers use the
Normally Open side so that you get stock boost if you
turn off the boost controller.

Anyone got the for-sure answer?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:31:55 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

Yeah check page 44 of the online PDF manual for the AVC-R,  I sent the link
+ page # to Josh already........

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mjannusch@attbi.com [SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:30 PM
> To: Joshua G. Prince
> Cc: team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
>
> > The problem I have is on the AVC-R solenoid box,
> > there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com, No,
> > and Nc.  It says when setting up with wastegate
> > to use the Com and Nc port but the other setup
> > says to use the Com and No ports, which are the
> > ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with
> > nipples in.  So I just need to know whether I
> > need to move the one nipple to the Nc port.
>
> I've got the HKS EVC-IV on my car, so I can't just go
> out and look.  But....  Use whatever configuration is
> in the Apexi manual for internal wastegates (not
> External gates).  Most of these controllers use the
> Normally Open side so that you get stock boost if you
> turn off the boost controller.
>
> Anyone got the for-sure answer?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:23:14 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

If one were interested in reading an air temperature in a car (intake,
engine bay, manifold, etc.), what kind of gauge would one use? 

I see many temperature gauges listed by different manufacturers, and some
say "Temperature Gauge" and some say "Water/Oil Temperature Gauge".
Different sites list identical gauges as both "Temp" and "Oil/Water Temp."
Is the only thing that matters the operating range of the gauges?  I know
that an EGT gauge wouldn't work :-) 

For example, could I use a GReddy 60mm Peak/Hold Temperature Gauge (30C to
150C) to monitor air temp, or is the sensor designed to only measure
temperatures of liquids?

Thanks,
- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:38:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Weight question

All the metal parts is my guess.

On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 M3000GTSL84@aol.com wrote:

> In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they state that our
> cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this weight comes from.
> Under the car the other day i noticed the gas tank is metal. but where else
> could the extra poundage be hiding?
>
> thanx
>
> -mike
> 97 SL

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:30:31 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Top speed

Erin try the FAQ pages at www.Team3s.com this has most of the answers you
are looking for. 

Also worth asking are you in Europe or in the land down under?  Reason I ask
is I know with some UK cars that have a speed governor on them.....  But
based on the speeds you are seeing I believe your car just doesn't have
enough HP to overcome its own wind drag.

The above problem is easy to fix just do the exhaust system mods and an
intake.  If you get really power hungry put larger injectors in along with
some sort of piggy back fuel controller and then turn up the boost.  Again
if you have questions check the FAQ pages mentioned above then check with
the list.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erin Karsan [SMTP:erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr]
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 4:25 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Top speed
>
>
>
> > I purchased my lovely car a few months ago. Last day I had a chance to
> drive
> > may car early in the morning and I was trying its top speed. It
> acelerated
> > to 152 beautifuly but than it stopped revving and stayed there. Is it
> > something normal, is it a speed limitter or is there anything wrong my
> car?
> >
> > I was reaching to 160 mph with my old impreza turbo easily.
> >
> > I am going to turn the boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi continuous.
> > Do I need a modified exhaust (my cats are removed - free flow)?  I am
> really
> > confused because everybody is saying something different.
> > Which is the best intake for our cars stillen or K&N FIPK?
> > Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or the other one?
> > Which is the best electronic boost controller for our cars. Blitz, HKS
> or
> > AVC-R.
> >
> > When I drive my car for 15 minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> > smells gasoline and my fuel consumption is high. My best drive was 220
> mile
> > with a full tank. Is there anything that I may check or is it something
> > normal.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Erin Karsan
> > 94-VR4, cat removed.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:09:12 +0000
From: osk@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: PST one piece CFDS

Hey everyone,

I'm soliciting factually based comments on the PST one
piece driveshaft.  Is this a good solution going one
piece?  Does it replace the entire stock driveshaft, or
just portions of it?  Are there other brands of CFDS for
our cars that are better?

Link to Group Buy on 3Si:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=f56c2d09b5c6abd3bd2c0f8c2b57ac20&threadid=84786

Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:15:46 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: PST one piece CFDS

I have one and it works great.
Engine/turbos spool up faster.
Transmission shifts easier .
Replaces the stock 3 piece drive shaft with a one piece that has
replaceable U-joints.

- -----Original Message-----
From: osk@attbi.com [mailto:osk@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:09 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: PST one piece CFDS


Hey everyone,

I'm soliciting factually based comments on the PST one
piece driveshaft.  Is this a good solution going one
piece?  Does it replace the entire stock driveshaft, or
just portions of it?  Are there other brands of CFDS for
our cars that are better?

Link to Group Buy on 3Si:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=f56c2d09b5c6abd3bd2c0f8c2b57ac20&threadid=84786

Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:31:39 -0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject: Team3S: Oil

Just a quick question:

I'm changing the oil today and I need to know wow much oil do I to put
in?  I have a number in my head, but I wanna be exact on this.  Thanks.

- -Brad
 97 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil

Till its full.

Twas what God invented the dipstick for.

No..honestly..theres no good exact number..start at 4..maybe 5.  But check
the dipstick.

On Thu, 13 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay wrote:

> Just a quick question:
>
> I'm changing the oil today and I need to know wow much oil do I to put
> in?  I have a number in my head, but I wanna be exact on this.  Thanks.
>
> -Brad
>  97 VR-4

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:36:45 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT

I tried swapping out the MAS at lunch time today, with no luck.  I'm going
to use the S-AFC to check the Karman frequency at a number of different RPM
points, just to be sure that my MAF isn't marginal.

- - Brian


> >
> > Borrow a MAS from someone. It only takes a couple of minutes
> > to swap the
> > MAS with the filter (or the filter box) attached.
>
> I know a certain someone who has a wrecked '95 Black VR-4
> that hasn't been
> sent to it's new owner yet...I think I'll sneak over and try
> swapping the
> MAS tonight after he's asleep.  :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:37 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

I'm a little confused about the part numbers...

The team3s website lists the number for the crankshaft pulley holder
(end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is telling me isn't a
valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming is MD996958 isn't
valid either...

Can anyone chime in here?

I'm in the middle of the service and stuck w/o that stupid piece of
metal. I've tried just using a ratchet and an 8mm socket, but broke the
socket, so I'd like to try the real thing...

Thanks,

Alex.

'95 vr4 on the operating table

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jim Elferdink
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
To: Alex Pedenko; Team 3S--Post
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for removing the harmonic
balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an impact--but for torquing
it
with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If you don't have an
impact,
then you'll certainly want it for removal as well.

Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them from
Miller
Special Tools (1-800-801-5420, www.spxmiller.com). There prices and
availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner, MD998767
is
$16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹  (they call it a
spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about a year ago.

- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink

95 VR4

> From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
> Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> To: "'Team3S'" <team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm getting ready to do the 60k on my vr4. When I was buying the
> special tools from mitsu, they told me that I don't really need the
end
> yoke holder and that their techs don't use it. I didn't want to spend
> $50 on a tool that I won't need, but we all know how accurate and
> knowledgeable satan's cronies are... so could anyone confirm or deny
> that? Do I need to run out and get it, or am I fine w/o it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:12:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

I've had no luck with miller either.  If anyone gets
their part number/price please post.

here is a page that shows how to make a tool if you
have access to a welder:

http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/12SpecialTools1.html

I've also heard of people welding pins onto a big
honkin pair of channel lock pliers.  Has anyone here
done that?

Glenn
'93 VR-4 w/60k parts on order

- --- Alex Pedenko <apedenko@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I'm a little confused about the part numbers...
>
> The team3s website lists the number for the
> crankshaft pulley holder
> (end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is
> telling me isn't a
> valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming
> is MD996958 isn't
> valid either...
>
> Can anyone chime in here?
>
> I'm in the middle of the service and stuck w/o that
> stupid piece of
> metal. I've tried just using a ratchet and an 8mm
> socket, but broke the
> socket, so I'd like to try the real thing...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 vr4 on the operating table
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
> [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Jim Elferdink
> Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko; Team 3S--Post
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for
> removing the harmonic
> balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an
> impact--but for torquing
> it
> with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If you
> don't have an
> impact,
> then you'll certainly want it for removal as well.
>
> Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off
> buying them from
> Miller
> Special Tools (1-800-801-5420, www.spxmiller.com).
> There prices and
> availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The
> Tensioner, MD998767
> is
> $16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works
> ‹  (they call it a
> spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are
> from about a year ago.
>
> -------------------------------------------
> Jim Elferdink
>
> 95 VR4
>
> > From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
> > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> > To: "'Team3S'" <team3s@team3s.com>
> > Subject: Team3S: 60k tools
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I'm getting ready to do the 60k on my vr4. When I
> was buying the
> > special tools from mitsu, they told me that I
> don't really need the
> end
> > yoke holder and that their techs don't use it. I
> didn't want to spend
> > $50 on a tool that I won't need, but we all know
> how accurate and
> > knowledgeable satan's cronies are... so could
> anyone confirm or deny
> > that? Do I need to run out and get it, or am I
> fine w/o it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alex.
> >
> > '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 19:27:53 -0400
From: "Jerry B." <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

Ok, I am confussed now,, Why is this seeming so hard,, I have had my timming
belt off 4 times in the last 2 months becasue of bending a rod, then
throwing a cam gear becasue i forgot to torque it. and when I put the belt
back on,, This is my process. lined up the timming marks on one head, both
cam gears,, put the belt on them and used ZIP ties to hold the belt steady
and the gears together so that they do not spin. then I do the second head
same way. using alot of ZIP ties to ensure the belt does not move and the
gears stay lined up. then on the bottom i route the belt as needed. i took
out the tensoner ram and forced it back in with a vice moving very slowely
as not to blow out the ram and using a really small alen wrench to hold the
ram closed, When it comes down the the pully, it will swivel on an oval
shape. I used a pry bar to hold it back towards the hydralic ram and used 2
allen wrenches to hold the pulley in posistion while tighting the bolt. I am
giving this information to those that do not have the tool or the patience
to find one,, Me I am guilty of the second one. when I am done and pull the
pin in the hydralic ram.. i make sure I can reisert it and that tells me the
pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP ties and was good to go..
If any have comments on this i am open to all critisism.

Jerry.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn amy" <glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
To: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>; "'Jim Elferdink'"
<macintosh@sunra.com>; "'Team3S'" <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 7:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools


> I've had no luck with miller either.  If anyone gets
> their part number/price please post.
>
> here is a page that shows how to make a tool if you
> have access to a welder:
>
> http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/12SpecialTools1.html
>
> I've also heard of people welding pins onto a big
> honkin pair of channel lock pliers.  Has anyone here
> done that?
>
> Glenn
> '93 VR-4 w/60k parts on order

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:44:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?

That makes absolute sense, thanks Jeff, thanks all!

Any ideas why my fuel cut pressure level keeps moving
downward?  In other words, I used to be able to push
1.25-1.30 bar w/o cut, now its even doing it around
1.15.  Have I hurt the engine at all by doing this?

Ken
- --- Jeff Lucius <jlucius@stealth316.com> wrote:
> >>Welcome to the fuel cutoff!
> >> (You forgot to upgrage your fuel system)
>
> Fuel cut has nothing to do with the fuel system!
> Well not directly.
> Indirectly, when larger injectors are installed and
> the stock ECM is retained,
> an airflow signal conditioner (AFC, ARC2, VPC)
> reduces the airflow signal
> (compared to actual) and this reduces chances for
> fuel cut (item 2 below).
>
> The ECM, not the fuel injectors or fuel pump, causes
> fuel cut by temporarily
> halting the injector driver signal (the 0 ms reading
> on the logger). The ECM
> does this in response to the following 3 situations.
> 1) The engine speed exceeds ~7500 RPM (overrun
> protection).
> 2) The A/N (basically airflow per cylinder per
> revolution) reaches or exceeds
> the prescribed value (overboost protection).
> 3) The throttle plate is closed during engine
> deceleration above a certain
> speed (improves emissions and fuel economy).
>
> More discussion on my web page below:
> http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm
>
> FWIW, the stock boost gauge reports A/N, not boost
> (despite the markings).
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:29 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

I just went back to my receipt from SPX/ Miller Special Tools. I'll
reiterate what I said in my earlier message:

MLR-MD998767  Wrench, timing belt    $16.80  (this is the tensioner)

MLR-6958   Spanner wrench   $24.09  (this is the end yoke holder)

Miller treated me just fine--I had the tools in about four days.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink



> From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:37 -0500
> To: "'Jim Elferdink'" <macintosh@sunra.com>, "'Team3S'" <team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> I'm a little confused about the part numbers...
>
> The team3s website lists the number for the crankshaft pulley holder
> (end yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is telling me isn't a
> valid number. The number below, which I'm assuming is MD996958 isn't
> valid either...
>
> Can anyone chime in here?
>
> I'm in the middle of the service and stuck w/o that stupid piece of
> metal. I've tried just using a ratchet and an 8mm socket, but broke the
> socket, so I'd like to try the real thing...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 vr4 on the operating table
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Jim Elferdink
> Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:23 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko; Team 3S--Post
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for removing the harmonic
> balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an impact--but for torquing
> it
> with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If you don't have an
> impact,
> then you'll certainly want it for removal as well.
>
> Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them from
> Miller
> Special Tools (1-800-801-5420, www.spxmiller.com). There prices and
> availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner, MD998767
> is
> $16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹  (they call it a
> spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about a year ago.
>
> -------------------------------------------
> Jim Elferdink
>
> 95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:22:52 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: FS GT Pro 357 Turbos

For Sale:  A set of GT Pro 357 Turbos.  These turbos were on my car for
about 1 year.  I'm asking $1800 without a core charge!  They are in perfect
condition, no problems at all with the turbos.  Please email me privately if
you are interested (off the list).

Thanks,
Rich Fowler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 02:22:29 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

> i make sure I can reisert it and that tells me the
> pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP
> ties and was good to go..
> If any have comments on this i am open to all
> critisism.

I do mine the same way, without the special tool.  One
important thing to note though is that if you do it
this way, you need to rotate the timing belt with the
crank pulley a few times around then let it sit for
about 10-15 minutes and make sure you can still get the
allen wrench back through the tensioner rod hole
easily.  If you can - you are in business.  If you
can't - then you need to try retensioning again.  On my
last adjustment I usually let it sit about 30 minutes
and retest for good measure.

I use large clips to hold the belts, but I'm sure tie
wraps work fine too.

Done it this way on many Eclipses, Talons, Lasers and
several 3/S cars over the last 8 years or so - no
problems at all yet.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:34:46 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

My biggest concern at this point is removing the crankshaft pulley. I've
managed to keep it in place w/o the end yoke holder (a combination of
wood, allen wrenches and the lever from my jack) but now the problem is
that the engine starts lifting up. I have the crankshaft pulley
positioned so that the holes for the holder are lined up horizontally.
Then I basically put an allen wrench into the hole and support it from
below so that it makes contact with the ground and stands there at a 90
degree angle. Once I start to undo the bolt, the whole contraption
prevents the pulley from spinning. But now, the engine is moving up!
I've sprayed half a can of wd-40 on there and am basically stuck...

Any suggestions?

Alex.

'95 vr4 on the operating table

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of mjannusch@attbi.com
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:22 PM
To: Jerry B.
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

> i make sure I can reisert it and that tells me the
> pulley is adjusted correctly. then I cut all ZIP
> ties and was good to go..
> If any have comments on this i am open to all
> critisism.

I do mine the same way, without the special tool.  One
important thing to note though is that if you do it
this way, you need to rotate the timing belt with the
crank pulley a few times around then let it sit for
about 10-15 minutes and make sure you can still get the
allen wrench back through the tensioner rod hole
easily.  If you can - you are in business.  If you
can't - then you need to try retensioning again.  On my
last adjustment I usually let it sit about 30 minutes
and retest for good measure.

I use large clips to hold the belts, but I'm sure tie
wraps work fine too.

Done it this way on many Eclipses, Talons, Lasers and
several 3/S cars over the last 8 years or so - no
problems at all yet.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:03:45 -0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject: Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit

I purchased an eibach pro-kit last week, and now I want to have them put on.
I went to one shop that said that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small of a spring, and then I went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars, and they said that it would take 20 man-hours and cost 600-800
dollars!!  I feel this is WAY too much money for this job...and that didn't
include a $120 alignment fee!!!!!  I am basically all out of options
here.... what should it cost for someone to do this? and how long should it
take?  I also have no idea where to even start looking to have this done....
looks like I am going to have to travel to a bigger city.... please help.

Desperate,

Brent H.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:05:29 -0500
From: Michael Provence <MProvence@gencofcu.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

I was given similar information from a dealership.  They use a large pry bar
for the tensioner and an air impact wrench to overcome the pulley (spin it
fast enough that it will tighten).  Of course this requires an air
compressor.  Apparently they do this on a regular basis but if this does not
seem advisable LET ME KNOW.  I am gearing up for the big 120k service.
Nothing like a seized ac compressor to put the fear in you.

Mike
94 3000GT NA

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:05:10 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

Alex:

WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when you put
it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:13:17 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

The tool isn't the problem any more - from the 60k instructions on the
team3s website, Rich says to brace the tool against the car frame which
would produce the same result - since the bolt won't budge, it just
pushes the block up. I got an 18" ratchet with a 1/2" drive I turn the
thing a good 30 degrees. It just comes right back when I let go. At this
point I'm ready to go out and buy a compressor. I still end up saving
$3-400 over having it done at the crappership... Unless somebody has any
other suggestions?

Am I wrong about the tool? Would the real thing prevent the block from
moving?

Thanks,

Alex.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:22:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
> I'm a little confused about the part numbers...
> The Team3S website lists the number for the crankshaft pulley holder (end
yoke holder) as MD990767-01, which miller is telling me isn't a valid
number. The number below, which I'm assuming is MD996958 isn't valid
either...
> Can anyone chime in here?
- ---------------snip----------->

We've updated Rich Leroy's 60k page on the Team3S site, based on Jim
Elferdink's post with the correct numbers from his Miller receipt:
MLR-MD998767  Wrench, timing belt  $16.80 (this is the tensioner)
MLR-6958   Spanner wrench  $24.09 (this is the end yoke holder)

There is another alternative for the tensioner tool offered on the
3SXPerformance website for ~$20; www.3SXPerformance.com.

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:31:47 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

The best way to hook up the SAVC-R solenoid is as follows:
Replace the "H" connector with a Tee.  Plug off the hose that goes down to
the rear intake hose.  Two of the Tee barbs should connect to the two hoses
going to each of the wastegates.  The third barb on the Tee should connect
to the COM (common) barb on the SAVC-R Solenoid.  The NO (normally open)
barb should connect directly to the back of the Y-pipe.  As the solenoid
cycles, the wastegates will alternately see manifold pressure and atmosphere
(since the wastegates are connected to the COMmon port).

Good luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: <mjannusch@attbi.com>; <pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
Cc: <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

> Matt, that is perfect, I understand that.  The problem I have is on the
> AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com, No,
> and Nc.  It says when setting up with wastegate to use the Com and Nc
> port but the other setup says to use the Com and No ports, which are the
> ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with nipples in.  So I just
> need to know whether I need to move the one nipple to the Nc port.  In
> my last email I said about connecting to the bottom and top of the
> wastegate, which is what the manual says when doing the wastegate setup.
> I was assuming since our cars had wastegates that I was to follow the
> wastegate instructions.  Thanks again for everyone's assistance, sorry
> to be a bother.
>
> Joshua Prince
> 97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
> 3SI#0136
> Microsoft Certified System Engineer
> Joshua@Unconundrum.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 23:46:51 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit

Cost me $60 for a spring compressor (you can rent them most places for
even cheaper), and about 5 hours worth of my time...  An impact wrench
and a air compressor plus a few sockets and such is all ya need...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Hawkinson's
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 6:04 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: need help fast with eibach pro-kit

I purchased an eibach pro-kit last week, and now I want to have them put
on.
I went to one shop that said that his spring compressor doesn't fit that
small of a spring, and then I went to a rod and restoration place that
lowers cars, and they said that it would take 20 man-hours and cost
600-800
dollars!!  I feel this is WAY too much money for this job...and that
didn't
include a $120 alignment fee!!!!!  I am basically all out of options
here.... what should it cost for someone to do this? and how long should
it
take?  I also have no idea where to even start looking to have this
done....
looks like I am going to have to travel to a bigger city.... please
help.

Desperate,

Brent H.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:01:12 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: PST one piece CFDS

Thanks Jim.  Anyone else have comments.  Is this better/worse/as good as the
APCT drive shaft?

Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 5:16 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: PST one piece CFDS


I have one and it works great.
Engine/turbos spool up faster.
Transmission shifts easier .
Replaces the stock 3 piece drive shaft with a one piece that has
replaceable U-joints.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:42:08 -0400
From: Steve Burrows <3SX@BellSouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control Arms

Hey everyone,
We have just introduced adjustable control arms for the twin turbos.  These
are the upper rear ones and allow you to get your car's camber back into
spec regardless of the suspension upgrades you have done (Eibach, Intrax,
Ground Control, Tein, etc).  No longer do you have to settle for being a
degree or even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the camber straight to
prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive! ;-)  tire wear.  Another
advantage gained from the adjustability is you can have "factory" 0 camber
setting for around town, then make a quick twist to draw in the top of the
wheel to set some negative camber when you head to the road course or
autocross.  Just mark your settings for street and track.  We have pictures
and they are available on our site at
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp .
Thanks,
Steve and EricB

BTW, We will be releasing these for the NA's very soon.
BTW2, We recently released full/stock sized aluminum crank pulleys that
weight 1.6 pounds, about 1/3 the weight of the stock crank pulley.  These
are available now and are this month's special.  Check them out :-)


3SX Performance Automotive
http://www.3SXPerformance.com
Tel: 704-563-7249

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:36:35 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

Use an impact wrench to take that thing off...

Works wonders...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:35 PM
To: mjannusch@attbi.com; 'Jerry B.'
Cc: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

My biggest concern at this point is removing the crankshaft pulley. I've
managed to keep it in place w/o the end yoke holder (a combination of
wood, allen wrenches and the lever from my jack) but now the problem is
that the engine starts lifting up. I have the crankshaft pulley
positioned so that the holes for the holder are lined up horizontally.
Then I basically put an allen wrench into the hole and support it from
below so that it makes contact with the ground and stands there at a 90
degree angle. Once I start to undo the bolt, the whole contraption
prevents the pulley from spinning. But now, the engine is moving up!
I've sprayed half a can of wd-40 on there and am basically stuck...

Any suggestions?

Alex.

'95 vr4 on the operating table

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:53:41 +0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??

Polishing shouldn’t be a problem, it’s only a long process and I’m sure that
almost every one of us as polished something at one time.

For the ports, I’ll port match them, which it shouldn’t be too hard, as our
heads and intake are aluminium.
To port match you need to have a new gasket for the port you want to match
and then using that gasket to match the ports.
This is a bit long to explain, I’ve got all kinds of book at home.
Here’s a link on how to port.
http://www.60degreev6.com/articles/perf/general/portpolish.html

I don’t need to flow bench the head, as the shop around here have noting to
compare them with and the # that I’ll get from them is no good to me.
It’s not like I want to make heads and sale them with a guaranteed HP gain,
then you need to flow test your head to make sure they’re all the same, I
just want to improve the flow of my heads.

Ok, when I’m done there might be a bit of difference, between each cylinder,
but it’s still going to be an improvement over stock!


>From: mjannusch@attbi.com
>To: "Marc Gauthier" <gogauthier@hotmail.com>
>CC: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
>Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:16:33 +0000
>
> > The port and polish I’ll do my self!
>
>Good luck trying to do it right without a flow bench.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:14:08 +0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: A good siteon how to Port match.

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:33:50 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: Team3S: MDP????

Does anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential (P)ressure sensor does?
I just recently had the CE light come on and expecting the O2 sensor
malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas recirculation malfunction.  Just
wondering if it something I can live with or is it something that needs
immediate attention?

TIA,

Francis
'96 RT/TT

List of mods in case it is relevant:

- -- Apex AVC-R
- -- Apex SAFC
- -- Apex EL Boost Gauge
- -- RC ENG 550's
- -- 2 ARM-1 A/F Gauges
- -- Spearco WI
- -- Magnacore wires
- -- RPS TCC
- -- HKS MegaFlow intake
- -- Freeflow precats
- -- Goodridge Steel Braided Brake Lines
- --  Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors w/R4S pads
- -- 1G DSM BOV
- -- Ground Control springs
- -- Supra Fuel Pump
- -- Stillen DP
- -- Borla Exhaust

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:39:25 -0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: MDP????

It sounds like something "Ruiner" had a problem with.  I search 3si for it.
I'm pretty sure it's the same thing.
Dan Johnson

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
To: "Team3S (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 6:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: MDP????

> Does anybody know what the (M)anifold (D)ifferential (P)ressure sensor
does?
> I just recently had the CE light come on and expecting the O2 sensor
> malfunction I get code p1400, exhaust gas recirculation malfunction.  Just
> wondering if it something I can live with or is it something that needs
> immediate attention?
>
> TIA,
>
> Francis
> '96 RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:30:21 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil

The number for my 1st gen and 2nd gen has ALWAYS been 4 quarts with the
filter change.  The oil pan is dented on my 2nd gen, so yours might need
more.  Flash has all sorts of opinions on this topic.  I'm sure he will
chime in ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bradford J. Gay [SMTP:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 5:32 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Oil
>
> Just a quick question:
>
> I'm changing the oil today and I need to know wow much oil do I to put
> in?  I have a number in my head, but I wanna be exact on this.  Thanks.
>
> -Brad
>  97 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 13:39:44 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??

>>For the ports, I’ll port match them, which it shouldn’t be
>> too hard, as our heads and intake are aluminium.

"Aluminium"? No Yankee bloke would say that! :)

Don't forget to match exhaust manifolds ports to the heads. The front exhaust
manifold is steel and the rear one is cast iron.

Pics of exhaust manifolds (these are not the ones installed on my engine):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-exhmans.htm

Consider matching the plenum to intake manifold ports also.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Gauthier" <gogauthier@hotmail.com>
To: <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:11:02 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil

Nope.  Nothing to add, Chuck.  Sorry to burst your bubble.

<grin>  I'd be happy to add.  Books sometimes say the dipstick reading
at cold will be different than the hot reading.  The book also says it
is 5 quarts but I can't figure out where that last quart goes?  4 with a
filter change usually takes it good enough.  Maybe an old quart has the
oil in more of the passages and a new quart hasn't had time to get it in
there yet.

I usually put in 3 quarts easily, start the 4th quart, pour in half,
check the dipstick, start the car for a little bit, shut it off, check
the dipstick.  Sometimes it is full now and sometimes adding the last
half quart fills it to just over the full mark.  Then running it around
town gets the oil cooler kicked in (which oil only goes through there
after it reaches a certain temp I believe).  Check the oil again and it
sits just about on the full mark.  Good enough for me.

www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/Amsoil

I've been experimenting since March with Amsoil in the car thanks to
Paul Tackett on the list.  Follow the link above to read a lil' about
what I've done and then some links to Amsoil's online store if you are
interested in buying some yourself (they also have products that are
similar to WD-40, Rain-X, SimpleGreen, etc.).  The oil is more
"slippery" I believe which means if you have a small blow-by or small
leak then it may leak more than a thicker oil but is also means that I
have found virtually no lifter tick in my car since switching.

I have 10W-30 synthetic in my car now and have ordered some 20W-50
synthetic racing oil for my friend's Ferrari 512TR at the track.  If
that keeps his oil temps down (more so than the other 20W-50 he was
using) then I'll be happy.  Of course, if I find that more oil leaks
when I use Amsoil or things don't work so well I will certainly complain
to the list too.

There are more things here so just ask.  I'll be out of town but will be
on my web account (darren@schilberg.com) if anyone has questions.  It
would be neat if others with this dreaded lifter tick could chime in and
run some Amsoil through their car for 1,000 miles or so and see if there
is any change.

There Chuck ... is that better?  Thanks for giving me the chance.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 09:30
 
The number for my 1st gen and 2nd gen has ALWAYS been 4 quarts with the
filter change.  The oil pan is dented on my 2nd gen, so yours might need
more.  Flash has all sorts of opinions on this topic.  I'm sure he will
chime in ...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:19:52 +0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??

Sorry,
me French Canadian!

I was planning on porting everything from the intake plenum to the exhaust
manifolds.
Thanks Jeff

- --------
92 Stealth R/T TT with 150KM

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:31:33 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

I think the only real difference between Water or Oil temp gauges will be
the max temp on the gauge.

You could use one designed for liquids to monitor air temps, although I
suspect the response time will be slower.  Plus - mechanic temp gauges would
be a PITA to run the lines, and with electric temp gauges you'd have to
figure out some way to rig up the sending unit.

As an alternative - (and don't laugh) consider this:

The PC Modding community uses LCD temp gauges all the time to monitor air
temps.  These are cheap, and would be very easy to install the wiring.  They
are basically a small LCD display with a wire with a temperature probe on
the end.  This would be easy to insert into an air stream (like in the IC
piping?) and anywhere else in the engine bay.  You can get a 2 LCD setup for
about $20.

You would need to construct some kind of panel to mount them (they are
rectangular 2" by 1", usually). Some have backlighting or you could rig that
up yourself.

Extreme Gauge Monitoring for Geeks:

They make a thing designed for PC's called a Digital Doc 5.  This is a 2" by
1" LCD display that monitors 8 different temperature probes that you could
run all over your engine compartment.  (Its about $70, I think).  You can
preset limits for each probe and it will beep and show a read-out when one
of the temps goes over the preset limit.  Otherwise it just reads each probe
about once per second and displays each temp on the LCD.

Now - here's the cool part.  The thing is actually designed to activate a
12v PC fan when a probe detects a limit has been reached.  You could use
this to activate LED's instead of 12v fans.  So you could create a panel to
mount a bank of say 4 LED's for:

Pre-IC Internal Air Temp
Post-IC Internal Air Temp
Engine Bay Temp
Intake Manifold Surface Temp

When the unit detected that one of the temps was over the limit you set it
would activate the LED.

Maybe I'm getting carried away.  It is Friday after all.  If anyone's
interested I'll send a link to the units I'm talking about.

Steve C.
92 Stealth RT TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S List (E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 5:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

> If one were interested in reading an air temperature in a car (intake,
> engine bay, manifold, etc.), what kind of gauge would one use?
>
> I see many temperature gauges listed by different manufacturers, and some
> say "Temperature Gauge" and some say "Water/Oil Temperature Gauge".
> Different sites list identical gauges as both "Temp" and "Oil/Water Temp."
> Is the only thing that matters the operating range of the gauges?  I know
> that an EGT gauge wouldn't work :-)
>
> For example, could I use a GReddy 60mm Peak/Hold Temperature Gauge (30C to
> 150C) to monitor air temp, or is the sensor designed to only measure
> temperatures of liquids?
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:57:48 -0400
From: "Mark Creekmore" <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: To sell or not to sell

I have a 92 Stealth R/T TT.  Recently my wife and I have had a new addition
to the family, so the Stealth has had to move a notch down the list of
priorities.  For the first time since I bought it many years ago, I’m
considering selling it.

The only problem is the second gear synchro. It shifts fine from first to
second for normal driving, but if it’s turning 7000 RPMs it won’t shift into
second.

Two questions:

1. What’s it worth?
2. Should I replace second gear synchro or sell as is?

It’s black with beige interior in excellent condition. The paint is a couple
of years old and was done very well and very expensive. Here is a list of
all the mods:

15G turbos
HKS 550cc injectors
ARC-2 fuel controller
HKS high flow fuel pump
HKS EVC-IV
HKS Intercoolers
2nd gen DSM BOV
NGK copper plugs 1 heat range colder
Magnecor Wires
Centerforce clutch
Aluminum flywheel
HKS dual tip cat back exhaust
Stillen down pipe
Random Technologies catalytic converter
Busher test pipe (replaces catalytic converter)
Gutted pre-cats
K&N filter
Ground control coil-overs 550# front, 400# rear (adjusted using wheel scales
and rear suspension mod to –1 degree camber all around)
Cusco rear strut tower brace
Stillen cross-drilled vented rotors
Metal matrix brake pads (with extra sets)
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Speed bleeder screws on the calipers
Motul brake fluid
Fittipaldi Tubolare 18” rims
Sumotomo HTRZ-II tires 245-45-18
Palm M100 with Pocketlogger software

I think that’s it, I might be missing some things.

Thanks in advance for your advice,

Mark Creekmore

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:04:23 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

//Alex:

//WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when you
//put
//it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.


anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have used one on two different
V8's to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it down. works great. I
haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so It's
great reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.

93 3000GTSL stock.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:11:13 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

Hey, you are not the only one here who is getting carried away. :-)
Send the link to the list please. Thanks.

Philip

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Maybe I'm getting carried away.  It is Friday after all.  If anyone's
interested I'll send a link to the units I'm talking about.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:27:52 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: To sell or not to sell

1. Can't help on the value

2. I'd say sell as-is with full disclosure.   Especially if you are not able
to do the work yourself.  If you have to send it out you won't increase the
value by the amount you pay to fix it.

My $0.02:
Anyone thinking of buying it that understands the rest of the upgrades
you've done shouldn't be scared off by a failing synchro.  The kind of
person that would be bothered by the synchro would also probably not
understand the value of your mods.    "Hey - I saw another 92 for sale for
only $8k last week - and its transmission was fine.  You are asking way too
much"

3. For consideration - fast forward 5 years:  "I used to have a Stealth TT
with major mods, I wish I would have never sold it.....what was I
thinking?."

Steve C.
92 Stealth R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Creekmore" <mcreekmore@usa.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:57 AM
Subject: Team3S: To sell or not to sell


> I have a 92 Stealth R/T TT.  Recently my wife and I have had a new
addition
> to the family, so the Stealth has had to move a notch down the list of
> priorities.  For the first time since I bought it many years ago, I'm
> considering selling it.
>
> <SNIP>
>
> 1. What's it worth?
> 2. Should I replace second gear synchro or sell as is?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:18:57 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

Dual LCD temp displays:  The LCD's just pop out of the enclosure and you'd
throw the rest away.
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&P
roduct_Code=5220

Single LCD:
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&P
roduct_Code=5230

8 sensor LCD with programmable limit alarm Digital Doc 5.  This could be
hacked to nicely fit into a DIN panel with LED's as part of the bezel.
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&P
roduct_Code=PC5235

I think most of these only go up to 212F/100C, not sure how hot the internal
IC charge gets (which is one of the things I assume would be handy to
monitor) but I doubt it is over 212F.

BTW - I've used the vendor in the link above before and IMHO they are
trustworthy.

Steve C.
92 R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>; <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?


>
> Hey, you are not the only one here who is getting carried away. :-)
> Send the link to the list please. Thanks.
>
> Philip
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Maybe I'm getting carried away.  It is Friday after all.  If anyone's
> interested I'll send a link to the units I'm talking about.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:37:55 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Temperature Gauge?

with 8 probes 2 could go to the front & back of the radiator as well. Test
heat rise under different conditions. gauge performance agianst ambiant
temp. A subject that probably bores most of you but those of us that live in
REALLY hot climates drive with one eye permenantly on the heat gauge.

Pete Rivenburg
Phoenix, AZ

93 3000GTSL stock. (for now ;-)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:40:55 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: To sell or not to sell

>
>3. For consideration - fast forward 5 years:  "I used to have a Stealth TT
>with major mods, I wish I would have never sold it.....what was I
>thinking?."
>
>Steve C.


Steve offers EXTREMELY GOOD ADVICE! 

I sold a BSA motorcycle 32 years ago when I got married, and I haven't had another bike since.  We stopped pro rallying in 1975 to have kids, and never got back to it.

You will find, as the kids come along and need shoes, you will never again have the money or opportunity to buy or build another Stealth. This goes for all of a guy's toys (sorry, ladies) including bikes, boats, sports cars, race cars, guns, and so on.

If possible, find a way to keep it. Store in a garage somewhere if need be.

Rich/slow old poop
speaking from experience.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:19:00 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question

Hey, I wanted to first off thank everyone for their help with the AVC-R,
I really appreciated it and it is finally in.  Man, it is SO much nicer
to use then the HKS EVC.  Anyway, Dave Black had emailed me with the
settings he had used for his.  I set it up with all those settings but
in first gear I am only getting .62 2nd .70 and 3rd .75 or so.  I
haven't fully opened it up in the higher gears cause I was trying to set
everything up.  I am going to list all the parameters and see if anyone
can give me any ideas as to why I am not at .95.  Thanks again
 
Setting B:
    Boost: .95
    Duty: ***
 
Duty % @rpm:
    2500: 65%
    3000: 65%
    3500: 66%
    4000: 68%
    4500: 70%
    5000: 72%
    5500: 72%
    6000: 65%
 
NE Point: 2500-6000rpm
F/B Speed: 9 9 6 3 3
Learn: X X X X X
Start Duty: 0%
 
Etc.
    Car select: 6cyl 4spd Thr top right arrow
   
    Sens. Sel.
        1. Relative 1
        2. Relative 2
        3. Absolute 1
        4. Absolute 2
   
    Gear judge:
        1. 107
        2. 063
        3. 041
        4. 030
        5. 023
        N/S 255
 
    Graph Scale:
        Boost: 2.0kg/cm^2
        NE 6000rpm
        Sp 180km/h

Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:53:13 -0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject: Team3S: No Boost

I got the AVC-R installed, but the solenoid isn't working whatsoever.
I've checked the vacuum lines and the electrical harnesses.  If the ECU
is wired wrong, could that be affecting it?

- -Brad
 97 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #869
***************************************