Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, June 13
2002 Volume 01 : Number
868
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:03:26 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Well, it looks like I
lied. The fuel pressure regulator WASN'T the source
of my lean problem,
and I still don't know what is. :(
Last night on a whim, I decided
to perform the fuel pump relay bypass (the
one that switches low/high
voltage). After doing that, the fuel pressure
acted normally. I
got 37 PSI at idle, 44 PSI at idle with the vacuum line
unplugged, and the
fuel pressure raised when I pumped pressure into the FPR
vacuum line with a
hand pump. So, my FPR is fine. I was hoping that the
relay bypass
would solve my leanness at WOT, but it didn't. :( Behavior
is
still the same: cruising enters closed loop mode normally, but at
WOT I run
lean.
So, I'm back to trying to track down the
problem. I figure the root problem
is one of two things: either
the fuel pressure is not high enough, or the
injectors are not being driven
properly by the ECU for some reason. Fuel
pressure is easier to check,
so that's what I'm attacking first. My fuel
pressure gauge line isn't
long enough to reach out of the engine bay, so I
can't read the fuel pressure
while driving. I'm also thinking about
hotwiring the fuel pump (I have
a Supra pump, though). I'm running out of
other possible sources for
low fuel pressure though. If the problem is the
ECU not driving the
injectors, I'm not sure what it could be, and I'm also
not sure quite how I'd
go about figuring it out. Urrgh. This is
getting
frustrating.
I'm REALLY open to any suggestions, both as to
how to attack the problem and
what might be the source.
Thanks to
everyone who's made suggestions so far!
- - Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 14:12:09
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Hey Brian,
What about poor spray
patterns from the injectors? If you weren't
atomizing fuel entirely,
then you'd get incomplete burn, leaving excess
air in the combustion
chanber. Try running Redline SI-1 through the
system with a low tank
of gas (max concentration). Maybe it's just that
your injectors need
some good ol TLC.
PS- i'll be getting rid of my stocker's soon, so if you
want to buy an
extra set, lemme know.
Damon
Geddes, Brian J
wrote:
> Well, it looks like I lied. The fuel pressure regulator
WASN'T the source
> of my lean problem, and I still don't know what
is. :(
>
> Last night on a whim, I decided to perform the
fuel pump relay bypass (the
> one that switches low/high voltage).
After doing that, the fuel pressure
> acted normally. I got 37 PSI
at idle, 44 PSI at idle with the vacuum line
> unplugged, and the fuel
pressure raised when I pumped pressure into the FPR
> vacuum line with a
hand pump. So, my FPR is fine. I was hoping that the
> relay
bypass would solve my leanness at WOT, but it didn't. :( Behavior
is
> still the same: cruising enters closed loop mode normally, but
at WOT I run
> lean.
>
> So, I'm back to trying to
track down the problem. I figure the root problem
> is one of two
things: either the fuel pressure is not high enough, or the
>
injectors are not being driven properly by the ECU for some reason.
Fuel
> pressure is easier to check, so that's what I'm attacking
first. My fuel
> pressure gauge line isn't long enough to reach out
of the engine bay, so I
> can't read the fuel pressure while
driving. I'm also thinking about
> hotwiring the fuel pump (I have a
Supra pump, though). I'm running out of
> other possible sources for
low fuel pressure though. If the problem is the
> ECU not driving
the injectors, I'm not sure what it could be, and I'm also
> not sure
quite how I'd go about figuring it out. Urrgh. This is
getting
> frustrating.
>
> I'm REALLY open to any
suggestions, both as to how to attack the problem and
> what might be the
source.
>
> Thanks to everyone who's made suggestions so
far!
>
> - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 14:10:22
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
To me, it seems like you can do a
few things at this point:
1) Buy a fuel pressure gauge with an
electronic sending
unit so you can read it while
driving
2) Buy an IDC gauge
3) Get your 450cc injectors
checked out - they were
bought used
4) Spend the
$50 or so to get the stealership to hook up
the MUT-II
tool and check your IDC readings under load
5) Check your capacitors in
your ECM
6) Check all your wiring to your S-AFC and make sure
nothing
got knocked loose or is making a bad
connection
7) Disconnect your S-AFC and reinstall your 360cc
injectors
@#$%#$% hybrid-OBD pieces of junk :-) Oh, for a real
datalogger...
Any other options at this point, short of replacing random
things in hopes
of fixing the problem?
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with
@#$%@$#% hybrid OBD-II crap
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:22:13
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Hey guys - regarding injector spay
patterns, I went to the net and got two
cans of that BG 44 stuff we were
discussing a few weeks ago. My car's
performance has really improved. I
assume some of that improvement may well
be the spray patterns. The stuff did
not radically alter the way the car
runs, but I can definitely feel more
power and the idle is definitely
smoother. IMHO it was worth the twenty bucks
a can.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell"
<
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Geddes,
Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Cc:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 12, 2002 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner
at WOT
| Hey Brian,
| What about poor spray patterns from the
injectors? If you weren't
| atomizing fuel entirely, then you'd get
incomplete burn, leaving excess
| air in the combustion chanber. Try
running Redline SI-1 through the
| system with a low tank of gas (max
concentration). Maybe it's just that
| your injectors need some good ol
TLC.
|
| PS- i'll be getting rid of my stocker's soon, so if you want to
buy an
| extra set, lemme know.
| Damon
|
|
| Geddes, Brian J
wrote:
|
| > Well, it looks like I lied. The fuel pressure
regulator WASN'T the
source
| > of my lean problem, and I still don't
know what is. :(
| >
| > Last night on a whim, I decided to
perform the fuel pump relay bypass
(the
| > one that switches low/high
voltage). After doing that, the fuel
pressure
| > acted
normally. I got 37 PSI at idle, 44 PSI at idle with the
vacuum
line
| > unplugged, and the fuel pressure raised when I pumped
pressure into the
FPR
| > vacuum line with a hand pump. So, my
FPR is fine. I was hoping that
the
| > relay bypass would solve
my leanness at WOT, but it didn't. :(
Behavior is
| > still the
same: cruising enters closed loop mode normally, but at WOT I
run
|
> lean.
| >
| > So, I'm back to trying to track down the
problem. I figure the root
problem
| > is one of two
things: either the fuel pressure is not high enough, or
the
| >
injectors are not being driven properly by the ECU for some reason.
Fuel
|
> pressure is easier to check, so that's what I'm attacking first.
My
fuel
| > pressure gauge line isn't long enough to reach out of the
engine bay, so
I
| > can't read the fuel pressure while driving.
I'm also thinking about
| > hotwiring the fuel pump (I have a Supra pump,
though). I'm running out
of
| > other possible sources for low
fuel pressure though. If the problem is
the
| > ECU not driving
the injectors, I'm not sure what it could be, and I'm
also
| > not sure
quite how I'd go about figuring it out. Urrgh. This
is
getting
| > frustrating.
| >
| > I'm REALLY open to any
suggestions, both as to how to attack the problem
and
| > what might be
the source.
| >
| > Thanks to everyone who's made suggestions so
far!
| >
| > - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:33:30
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Injector Cleaning
I recently bought a set of used DSM 450cc
injectors from M&S. I decided to
have them cleaned before I
installed them in my car. I went to the
Carburator Factory here in
Sacramento to have them cleaned and I am very
glad that I did
afterwards. The injectors were flowing very poorly when the
technician
flowed them. He estimated that it was less than 300 cc on some
of the
injectors. He then sonically cleaned them and back flowed them to
wash
all the now loose gunk out of the fuel filter. Yes, there is a
fuel
filter inside each injector. He explained to me that the only way
to clean
the fuel filter inside the injector was to reverse the flow. I
saw the
cleaning tank after he was done and was surprised at all the white
gunk that
was inside my injectors. The technician concluded the white
gunk to be
water deposits. These were 2nd generation DSM
injectors. Not that old. He
then flowed them and replaced all the
fitting on them. They are now just
like brand new and all working at
peak performance.
Some things I learned from this:
1. The only
way to guarantee that your injectors are going to be fully
cleaned and flow
like new is to remove them from your car and have them
reverse flow
cleaned.
2. He recommended having injectors cleaned or replaced every
100k miles.
3. Always have used injectors cleaned.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2
weeks:
Apexi SAFC,Very Clean DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition
system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:44:55
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Injector Cleaning
> What was the price for this
cleaning and how long did it take?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
The price was $25 per injector. $150 total. They did the
cleaning the next
day before 10 am. They could have done it the same
day but I arrived at
their shop late in the day.
Here is their web
site if anyone is interested:
http://www.carburetorfactory.comDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2
weeks:
Apexi SAFC,Very Clean DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition
system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 23:17:37
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>I
got 37 PSI at idle, 44 PSI at idle with the vacuum line
>unplugged, and
the fuel pressure raised when I pumped pressure into the
FPR
>vacuum
line with a hand pump. So, my FPR is fine.
Try to connect your boost
gauge with a T to the pump to monitor the "boost"
pressure while you are
pumping up your FPR. Your fuel pressure has to be 44
psi plus the boost. This
way you will be 100% sure that you are getting the
right fuel
pressure.
See if you have the S-AFC sees the throttle position signal.
Check it on
the S-AFC display.
Bypass the S-AFC. See if the car runs
witout it (at idle, at half-load, and
at WOT). If it does, sell it, you do
not need it! ;-)
Borrow a MAS from someone. It only takes a couple of
minutes to swap the
MAS with the filter (or the filter box)
attached.
Read the STIM on the Team3S website. It says what other inputs
the ECU is
looking at to determine the IDC.
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 22:37:30
-0600
From: "Kyle Call" <
redcelicagt@cableone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Wiper Motor
Hey all,
I seem to have a bit of a problem. I have
a 93 SL, and my wiper motor passed
away recently. I checked the fuse. I also
checked the wire. I'm going to
replace it myself. In the spirit of home
repair, I started removing things.
I assumed that the motor is underneath the
the plate that holds up the
battery? (I'm not so sure about it)...Anyway, the
bolts that hold the plate
are rusted to the plate itself. There seems to be
no getting them off,
because I broke every socket I had on them. I used WD-40
-- no luck.
I guess my question would be, IF the motor is under
the battery plate,
how would i get it off? If it isn't under the plate,
having rusted stuff
bugs me, so I want to get the rusted bolts off anyway.
:-)
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Call
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:23:11
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
The end-yoke holder is required, not so much for
removing the harmonic
balancer bolt--you can do that easily with an
impact--but for torquing it
with a torque wrench when you put it back on. If
you don't have an impact,
then you'll certainly want it for removal as
well.
Don't buy the tools from Mitsu, Youšre better off buying them from
Miller
Special Tools (1-800-801-5420,
www.spxmiller.com). There prices
and
availability are much better than Mitsubishišs. The Tensioner, MD998767
is
$16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works ‹ (they call it
a
spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are from about a year
ago.
- -------------------------------------------
Jim
Elferdink
95 VR4
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35 -0500
> To: "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Subject:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm getting ready
to do the 60k on my vr4. When I was buying the
> special tools from mitsu,
they told me that I don't really need the end
> yoke holder and that their
techs don't use it. I didn't want to spend
> $50 on a tool that I won't
need, but we all know how accurate and
> knowledgeable satan's cronies
are... so could anyone confirm or deny
> that? Do I need to run out and
get it, or am I fine w/o it.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 00:54:42
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wiper Motor
Hate to break it to ya, but the wiper motor is in
plain view when you
open the hood... 3 bolts hold it on... Right in the
passenger side rear
corner of the engine bay, behind the strut
tower...
It's a black cylindrical looking thing bolted to the
firewall...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Kyle Call
Sent: Wednesday,
June 12, 2002 11:38 PM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Wiper Motor
Hey
all,
I seem to have a bit of a problem. I have a 93 SL, and my wiper
motor
passed
away recently. I checked the fuse. I also checked the wire.
I'm going to
replace it myself. In the spirit of home repair, I started
removing
things.
I assumed that the motor is underneath the the plate that
holds up the
battery? (I'm not so sure about it)...Anyway, the bolts that
hold the
plate
are rusted to the plate itself. There seems to be no
getting them off,
because I broke every socket I had on them. I used WD-40 --
no luck.
I guess my question would be, IF the motor is under the
battery
plate,
how would i get it off? If it isn't under the plate, having
rusted stuff
bugs me, so I want to get the rusted bolts off anyway.
:-)
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Call
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 01:56:17
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Font Exhaust Manifold Removal
I doing some work on my car tonight
when I noticed that my front exhaust
manifold was cracked. I removed
all the IC piping, the alternator and the
driver's side fan. I managed
to remove all the manifold bolts that bolt to
the engine and the front
turbo. The manifold is loose now but I can't get
it out.
Do I
have to remove the font turbo to get it out or is there another
way?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN
Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:15:19
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Not to be an ass Brad.... but if this is
your first "major mod" you really
picked a fawker ;)
Ok now to
be helpful, you want to T into the feed hose for the BOV and run
one end to
the pressure sensor on the AVCR (looks like a 1/2 moon with a
metal nipple
sticking off.
Do you want the ability to run stock boost by turning
off the AVCR? Reason
I ask there are 2 ways to install the bish and
they are slightly different
from each other depending on what you are trying
to accomplish.........
Oh yeah if you have not upgraded the fuel
system and are not running WAI
(Water/Alkie Injection) DO NOT run over
13.5-14 psi or will break something.
Also worth noting if you plan
on drag racing or racing the car period
replace your engine mounts, from my
experiance they shit the bed after about
30-40 passes. Especially if
you are pullin 1.80 or lower 60ft times
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay [mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Wed
6/12/2002 5:40 AM
To: 3SRacers; Team3S
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Apex'i
AVC-R
HELP!
My friend and I are haplessly trying to install the
AVC-R and it really
isn't working. We thought we had it figured out
per the instructions,
but then it clicked that the car has two wastegates
and two of just
about everything else the manual tells us to hook it up
to. Can anyone
please tell me how to install it step-by-step?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:39:56
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
One range
colder coppers and I get hesitations. I may change back to
platiums one range
colder soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Are you one range colder
or two? I've driven mine with one range colder
in
> 30 degree F
temps with no problems (if the weather is colder than that, I
> drive my
pickup truck). I'm surprised that ambient temps would affect the
>
plugs that much. The colder it gets, the stronger the acceleration I
get.
> :-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:13:28
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
> A side effect
is that I have to change the plugs when the weather is
getting
> colder
in autumn. Bad accelleration and not so great idle when the engine
is
>
cold. It is ok after 10 minutes of driving, depending on the outside
>
temperature.
Are you one range colder or two? I've driven mine with
one range colder in
30 degree F temps with no problems (if the weather is
colder than that, I
drive my pickup truck). I'm surprised that ambient
temps would affect the
plugs that much. The colder it gets, the
stronger the acceleration I get.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:53:42
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
I have no
problem with mine, I'm up in Ottawa Canada and driving mine all
year!
>From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
>To: "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>,
<
team3s@team3s.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
>Date: Mon, 10
Jun 2002 15:13:28 -0500
>
> > A side effect is that I have to
change the plugs when the weather is
>getting
> > colder in
autumn. Bad accelleration and not so great idle when the
>engine
>is
> > cold. It is ok after 10 minutes of
driving, depending on the outside
> > temperature.
>
>Are
you one range colder or two? I've driven mine with one range colder
in
>30 degree F temps with no problems (if the weather is colder than
that, I
>drive my pickup truck). I'm surprised that ambient temps
would affect the
>plugs that much. The colder it gets, the stronger
the acceleration I get.
>:-)
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:19:15
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Weight question
In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A,
they state that our
cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this
weight comes from.
Under the car the other day i noticed the gas tank is
metal. but where else
could the extra poundage be
hiding?
thanx
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:07:03
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
I’ll be rebuilding my engine pretty
soon and I’m not rich! (so I’m not going
with forge pistons)
Let me know
if I forget something!
Boring out the block
Polishing the
crankshaft
Connecting Rod (I’ll most likely get them shot-peen)
Complete
gasket kit with bearings (clevite 77), pistons (heat coated) and
rings
(total seal)
New lifters
New oil pump
Port and polish the heads
Port
and polish the exhaust manifold
3 angel job on the valves
The pre-cats
are gutted as it’s!
Will inspect the 9b’s, but they were rebuild 2 years
ago!
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:38:31
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
what physically changes to
the plugs to make them "hotter" or "colder"?
Also, what are the
benefits of a hotter or colder plug? Why not
always use a colder one
if it's less prone to knock?
Damon
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
wrote:
> I think BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
>
> A
guy at Sparkplugs.com told me that the colder platinum plugs (a cheaper
>
platinum) are BKR7EZX-11.
>
> Philip
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Jeff, I read your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one range
>
colder plug that you recommend BCPR7ES-11?
> (Sorry if I got some of the
letters wrong, I do not have web access right
> now)
>
>
Still have the question about the "copper plugs". It seems that NGK
makes
> more than model of those. It that the V-power plug?
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:51:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control
Arms
Ohh..but cool product! *forgot to say that*
On Mon, 10
Jun 2002, Steve Burrows wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> We have just
introduced adjustable control arms for the twin turbos. These
> are
the upper rear ones and allow you to get your car's camber back into
>
spec regardless of the suspension upgrades you have done (Eibach, Intrax,
> Ground Control, Tein, etc). No longer do you have to settle for
being a
> degree or even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the camber
straight to
> prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive! ;-)
tire wear. Another
> advantage gained from the adjustability is you
can have "factory" 0 camber
> setting for around town, then make a quick
twist to draw in the top of the
> wheel to set some negative camber when
you head to the road course or
> autocross. Just mark your settings
for street and track. We have pictures
> and they are available on
our site at
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
> Thanks,
> Steve and EricB
>
> BTW, We will be
releasing these for the NA's very soon.
> BTW2, We recently released
full/stock sized aluminum crank pulleys that
> weight 1.6 pounds, about
1/3 the weight of the stock crank pulley. These
> are available now
and are this month's special. Check them out :-)
>
> 3SX
Performance Automotive
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com>
Tel: 704-563-7249
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:45:43
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
Have you notice, that our car a pretty quiet,
that the insulation!
I’ll go with the 92TT, I have one:
AWD, that lost
of extra stuff in the back (transfer case, drive shafts,
differentials,
axels, CV joints, brackets, …)
AWS, even more stuff in the back (power
steering pump in the back, hoses,
brackets, …)
ESC, heavier
struts
Power antenna (electric motor)
Dual mode exhaust (electric motor),
a valve in the muffler and in stainless
steel
2 turbo
2
intercoolers
electric seat (motors)
leather interior
power windows
(motors)
power door lock
cruise control
ABS
Air bag
Sun roof for
some of us
big wheels
a body that made to handle 300HP
big gas
tank
pop up head light for the first gen
fog lights
body molding
and
more
quality = extra weight
>From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Weight question
>Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:19:15
EDT
>
>In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they
state that
>our
>cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where
this weight comes from.
>Under the car the other day i noticed the gas
tank is metal. but where else
>could the extra poundage be
hiding?
>
>thanx
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:30:34
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
If you are not rich then you cannot
afford NOT to get forged pistons. The
Wiseco forged piston kit R18301557
cost ~$660 (pistons, pins, rings), about
what you would pay for factory
stock pistons. Any efficiency improvements you
might see from the port and
polish work, 3-angle valve grind, and piston heat
coating are trivial
compared to the security you get running forged pistons
(in my opinion). If
you have to make a choice, consider taking the $$$ you
save from not
performing the above work and get the forged pistons.
Piston upgrade
guide:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htmHead
info (factory heads already flow superbly!):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htmIf
you are re-using the rods, be sure to get them magnafluxed to check for
defects. ARP (basically the best!) makes rod bolts for our
engines.
Total Seal rings are over-rated in my opinion.
Consider
using the 0.25 or 0.50-mm over-sized valve guides that Mitsu sells
(see my
head info web page).
Polishing the crank? Rather than re-use your 1st gen
crank (have it
magnafluxed if you are), consider replacing it with the
stronger 2nd gen crank
(maybe $500 at the discount dealers?).
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:07 AM
Subject: Team3S: rebuilding my TT
engine??
I’ll be rebuilding my engine pretty soon and I’m not rich! (so
I’m not going
with forge pistons)
Let me know if I forget
something!
Boring out the block
Polishing the crankshaft
Connecting
Rod (I’ll most likely get them shot-peen)
Complete gasket kit with bearings
(clevite 77), pistons (heat coated) and
rings (total seal)
New
lifters
New oil pump
Port and polish the heads
Port and polish the
exhaust manifold
3 angel job on the valves
The pre-cats are gutted as
it’s!
Will inspect the 9b’s, but they were rebuild 2 years
ago!
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:02:44
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Multi angle valve cuts
I see three and even five angle cut valve
jobs.
What are the advantages / disadvantages to these multi cut options
?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Marc Gauthier
[mailto:gogauthier@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:07 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
I'll be rebuilding my engine pretty
soon and I'm not rich! (so I'm not going
with forge pistons)
Let me
know if I forget something!
Boring out the block
Polishing the
crankshaft
Connecting Rod (I'll most likely get them shot-peen)
Complete
gasket kit with bearings (clevite 77), pistons (heat coated) and
rings
(total seal)
New lifters
New oil pump
Port and polish the heads
Port
and polish the exhaust manifold
3 angel job on the valves
The pre-cats
are gutted as it's!
Will inspect the 9b's, but they were rebuild 2 years
ago!
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:06:22
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Weight question
Isn't there also some kind of built in roll bar
type reinforcement
in the roof ?
That's gotta add weight.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Gauthier
[mailto:gogauthier@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:46 AM
To:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
Have you notice, that our car a pretty
quiet, that the insulation!
I'll go with the 92TT, I have one:
AWD,
that lost of extra stuff in the back (transfer case, drive shafts,
differentials, axels, CV joints, brackets, ...)
AWS, even more stuff in
the back (power steering pump in the back, hoses,
brackets, ...)
ESC,
heavier struts
Power antenna (electric motor)
Dual mode exhaust (electric
motor), a valve in the muffler and in stainless
steel
2 turbo
2
intercoolers
electric seat (motors)
leather interior
power windows
(motors)
power door lock
cruise control
ABS
Air bag
Sun roof for
some of us
big wheels
a body that made to handle 300HP
big gas
tank
pop up head light for the first gen
fog lights
body molding
and
more
quality = extra weight
>From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Weight question
>Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:19:15
EDT
>
>In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they
state that
>our
>cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where
this weight comes from.
>Under the car the other day i noticed the gas
tank is metal. but where else
>could the extra poundage be
hiding?
>
>thanx
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:11:05
+0000
From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
Thank-you Jeff,
This is y I sent
this post, as I didn’t know that Wiseco prices was the same
price as stock
piston!
The port and polish I’ll do my self!
Marc
>From:
"Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>To:
"" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
>Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:30:34
-0000
>
>If you are not rich then you cannot afford NOT to get
forged pistons. The
>Wiseco forged piston kit R18301557 cost ~$660
(pistons, pins, rings), about
>what you would pay for factory stock
pistons. Any efficiency improvements
>you
>might see from the port
and polish work, 3-angle valve grind, and piston
>heat
>coating are
trivial compared to the security you get running forged pistons
>(in my
opinion). If you have to make a choice, consider taking the $$$ you
>save
from not performing the above work and get the forged
pistons.
>
>Piston upgrade
guide:
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htm
>
>Head
info (factory heads already flow
superbly!):
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htm
>
>If
you are re-using the rods, be sure to get them magnafluxed to check
for
>defects. ARP (basically the best!) makes rod bolts for our
engines.
>
>Total Seal rings are over-rated in my
opinion.
>
>Consider using the 0.25 or 0.50-mm over-sized valve
guides that Mitsu sells
>(see my head info web
page).
>
>Polishing the crank? Rather than re-use your 1st gen crank
(have it
>magnafluxed if you are), consider replacing it with the stronger
2nd gen
>crank
>(maybe $500 at the discount
dealers?).
>
>Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Marc Gauthier" <
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:07 AM
>Subject: Team3S: rebuilding my TT
engine??
>
>I’ll be rebuilding my engine pretty soon and I’m not
rich! (so I’m not
>going
>with forge pistons)
>Let me know if
I forget something!
>
>Boring out the block
>Polishing the
crankshaft
>Connecting Rod (I’ll most likely get them
shot-peen)
>Complete gasket kit with bearings (clevite 77), pistons (heat
coated) and
>rings (total seal)
>New lifters
>New oil
pump
>Port and polish the heads
>Port and polish the exhaust
manifold
>3 angel job on the valves
>
>The pre-cats are gutted
as it’s!
>Will inspect the 9b’s, but they were rebuild 2 years
ago!
>
>Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:19:03
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Repeats of messages from earlier + Brake Upgrade ?
Ok has anyone
else gotten repeats of messages that were sent out earlier in
the week?
I had about 8-10 messages from like mon-tues that I rec'd again
yesterday
afternoon/evening.........
If not just ignore my random
babbling
Now tech question to anyone that has switched to 2G front brakes
from a 1G
do the SS lines work from a 1G to a 2G?
Russ
F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:41:44
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
I can answer alot of this question. first off
the drivers seat, ( if you
ahve full mechanical seats) weights 70-80 pounds,
cannot remember the exact.
if you own a all wheel drive you have 2 times the
axels, transfer case, all
wheel steering,, if you have it adds a second so
called rack in the rear.
talking to a few friends that work at dodge said
that there are like 4
layers of sound proofing and padding and carpet on the
floor, Do not know
what the exact weight is but he said approx.. 150 + of it
so there are a few
things you can think about,, then go take a look at yoru
car and really
think of all the small things that you wouldn't think of
seeing.....
Jerry 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
Cc:
< >
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
> All the metal parts is my
guess.
>
> On Mon, 10 Jun 2002
M3000GTSL84@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they state
that
our
> > cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this
weight comes
from.
> > Under the car the other day i noticed the gas
tank is metal. but where
else
> > could the extra poundage be
hiding?
> >
> > thanx
> >
> > -mike
>
> 97 SL
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
> Lots of
cars..and race them all. Dont you?
>
> Got Brakes?
I've got savings!
> Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 08:37:18
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Admin
Note: Re: Team3S: Repeats of messages...........
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
> Ok
has anyone else gotten repeats of messages that were sent out earlier
in the
week? I had about 8-10 messages from like mon-tues that I rec'd
again
yesterday afternoon/evening.........
- --------tech content
snipped----------->
Yes, message repeats are one of the new
"features" that Geoff has added to
the list! :-) Kidding aside,
we're getting repeats, we have a number of
members who are not receiving
posts at all, I'm drowning in bounced
messages, and Geoff is trying to find
the time to fix the list, or sleep,
whichever comes first. Stay tuned,
be patient, and keep discussions about
list problems private to the Admins,
please...
And thanks, Russ, for adding your "tech" content to keep your
post "legal".
:-)
Forrest
for the Admins...
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:47:37
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Hey I just got my Apexi Avc-R to replace my HKS EVC
IV and I wanted to
see if ANYONE has ENGLISH instructions?!!?!?! My
Japanese is slightly
out of date...like 3 past life times ago :-). I
was trying to
determined the hook up from the pictures since the unit is
slightly
different then the HKS. There are two separate pieces which
are to
connect in the engine compartment. I am not sure what exactly to
call
them since the on unit has 2 valves and the other one looks to be
a
single valve. From the pictures, it looks like the one with only
one
nipple fitting (The piece is round with the nipple in the center and
a
flat mount on the bottom) is supposed to hook inline with the BOV.
Is
this correct? Again, I am going only on pictures and they are less
then
desirable. The Other piece has 2 nipples coming out of it, and one
hole
that is threaded for a nipple but no nipple in it, they are listed
Com,
No, and Nc. I am sorry to bother you guys but if anyone can tell
me
which is supposed to be hooked in line with the wastegate, Y pipe..etc
I
would really appreciate it and then the fun will come setting it
up
without directions :-(. Why can't these manufacturers put in
English
directions? I mean in Montreal Canada if the directions don't
come in
French, they won't allow it to be sold! Thanks for everyone's
help.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:49:08
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Joshua,
Just go to apex-i.com and
download the pdf instructions from there. You can
also get the wiring
instructions there.
Good luck,
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua G. Prince
[mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 10:48 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Apex'i AVC-R
Hey I just got my Apexi Avc-R to replace my HKS EVC IV and I
wanted to
see if ANYONE has ENGLISH instructions?!!?!?! My Japanese is
slightly
out of date...like 3 past life times ago :-). I was trying
to
determined the hook up from the pictures since the unit is
slightly
different then the HKS. There are two separate pieces which
are to
connect in the engine compartment. I am not sure what exactly to
call
them since the on unit has 2 valves and the other one looks to be
a
single valve. From the pictures, it looks like the one with only
one
nipple fitting (The piece is round with the nipple in the center and
a
flat mount on the bottom) is supposed to hook inline with the BOV.
Is
this correct? Again, I am going only on pictures and they are less
then
desirable. The Other piece has 2 nipples coming out of it, and one
hole
that is threaded for a nipple but no nipple in it, they are listed
Com,
No, and Nc. I am sorry to bother you guys but if anyone can tell
me
which is supposed to be hooked in line with the wastegate, Y pipe..etc
I
would really appreciate it and then the fun will come setting it
up
without directions :-(. Why can't these manufacturers put in
English
directions? I mean in Montreal Canada if the directions don't
come in
French, they won't allow it to be sold! Thanks for everyone's
help.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:57:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Multi angle valve cuts
Advantages:
*Theoretically*, the
multiangle valve-seat cuts improve (i.e., increase in
this case) intake
charge flow when the valve just lifts off the seat.
Disadvantages:
I
am not aware there are any if the process is performed correctly. It isn't
even that expensive.
Practicality:
The few bench flow tests
reported for our heads show they already flow much
more air than can be used
at 7000 RPM and 100% volumetric efficiency
(remember, only density changes
with boost, the volume flowing through the
head does not). And that is at
the factory gross valve lift of about 0.350"
(depends on model). Look on my
web page below for results of two bench flow
tests and more details on the
heads.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htmAre
our heads perfect? Of course not. But for all practical purposes for
nearly
all *street* engines, nothing at all needs to be done to our heads
concerning flow - not flow work, not larger valves, not higher-lift or
different-grind cams, not even port matching.
*However*, bench flow
tests do not reveal how heads flow under the dynamic of
valve operation. But
there is a tool that does tell us this. It is the torque
curve generated by
dyno measurements. Assuming the boost is held constant, the
torque curve
mimics the volumetric efficiency of the engine, and the VE is
related to the
flow through the heads (as well as the rest of the intake and
exhaust
system). Our torque/VE falls off rapidly at higher RPM, usually above
5000
or 6000 RPM depending on the engine. Depending on your intended use for
the
engine, this is the region where improvements can be made in the heads -
the
flow work, the valve seat cut, cams, etc. Unfortunately, this is a trial
and
error type of development, unless very expensive computer modeling is
employed. Also, it is unusual to have improvements across the entire range
of
RPM. Often, increases in high-RPM torque are paid for by decreases in
low-RPM
torque, and vice versa.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Multi angle valve
cuts
I see three and even five angle cut valve jobs.
What are the
advantages / disadvantages to these multi cut options ?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:22:21
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Fwd: RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
>The correct address is :
www.apexi-usa.com>
>
>>Just
go to apex-i.com and download the pdf instructions from there. You
can
>>also get the wiring instructions
there.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:22:45
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
ECu Splicing/AVCR WAS: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Just curious before I go
splicing wires, is it really worth it to
connect to the rpm, injectors,
speed...etc? I know it has a auto learn
but so did the HKS and that was
horrible. I was just curious if anyone
has had the automatic setup work
really well for them or if it is better
to input all the settings
manually? Thanks again
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow
Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Morice, Francis
[mailto:francis.morice@retek.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 11:49
AM
To: Joshua G. Prince;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Apex'i AVC-R
Joshua,
Just go to apex-i.com and download the
pdf instructions from there. You
can
also get the wiring
instructions there.
Good luck,
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua G. Prince [
mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com<
mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com>
]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 10:48 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Apex'i
AVC-R
Hey I just got my Apexi Avc-R to replace my HKS EVC IV and I wanted
to
see if ANYONE has ENGLISH instructions?!!?!?! My Japanese is
slightly
out of date...like 3 past life times ago :-). I was trying
to
determined the hook up from the pictures since the unit is
slightly
different then the HKS. There are two separate pieces which
are to
connect in the engine compartment. I am not sure what exactly to
call
them since the on unit has 2 valves and the other one looks to be
a
single valve. From the pictures, it looks like the one with only
one
nipple fitting (The piece is round with the nipple in the center and
a
flat mount on the bottom) is supposed to hook inline with the BOV.
Is
this correct? Again, I am going only on pictures and they are less
then
desirable. The Other piece has 2 nipples coming out of it, and one
hole
that is threaded for a nipple but no nipple in it, they are listed
Com,
No, and Nc. I am sorry to bother you guys but if anyone can tell
me
which is supposed to be hooked in line with the wastegate, Y pipe..etc
I
would really appreciate it and then the fun will come setting it
up
without directions :-(. Why can't these manufacturers put in
English
directions? I mean in Montreal Canada if the directions don't
come in
French, they won't allow it to be sold! Thanks for everyone's
help.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:20:50
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
I think
BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
A guy at Sparkplugs.com told me that
the colder platinum plugs (a cheaper
platinum) are
BKR7EZX-11.
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff, I read
your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one range
colder plug that you
recommend BCPR7ES-11?
(Sorry if I got some of the letters wrong, I do not
have web access right
now)
Still have the question about the "copper
plugs". It seems that NGK makes
more than model of those. It that the V-power
plug?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:43:48
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
Yes, those are
the copper ones; I just bought a set of 6 from them. They
came
pre-gapped at .034.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 2:21 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
>>I think
BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
>>A guy at Sparkplugs.com told me
that the colder platinum plugs (a cheaper
>>platinum) are
BKR7EZX-11.
>>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:57:54
-0600
From: "Kyle Call" <
redcelicagt@cableone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Wiper Motor
I'm sorry, I meant the motor for the wiper fluid
pump. It was kind of late
when I wrote that message :)
Maybe that will
clear things up a bit...
Kyle Call
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:09:34
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
I thought about this, but it
seems very unlikely. I installed used DSM 450s
2-3 months ago, and they
ran flawlessly until my lean problems started a
week or two ago. I'm
seeing almost equal O2 levels on both banks. That
could be caused by
poor spray from the injectors, but the chances of an
equal number injectors
clogging an equal amount on both banks at the same
time are astronomically
low. I'll probably run injector cleaner anyways
though, since I've been
meaning to do that.
Thanks,
- - Brian
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, June 12, 2002 2:12 PM
> To: Geddes, Brian J
> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>
>
> Hey
Brian,
> What about poor spray patterns from the injectors? If you
weren't
> atomizing fuel entirely, then you'd get incomplete burn,
> leaving excess
> air in the combustion chanber. Try
running Redline SI-1 through the
> system with a low tank of gas (max
concentration). Maybe
> it's just that
> your injectors need
some good ol TLC.
>
> PS- i'll be getting rid of my stocker's soon,
so if you want
> to buy an
> extra set, lemme know.
>
Damon
>
>
> Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>
> >
Well, it looks like I lied. The fuel pressure regulator
> WASN'T
the source
> > of my lean problem, and I still don't know what
is. :(
> >
> > Last night on a whim, I decided to
perform the fuel pump
> relay bypass (the
> > one that switches
low/high voltage). After doing that, the
> fuel pressure
>
> acted normally. I got 37 PSI at idle, 44 PSI at idle with
>
the vacuum line
> > unplugged, and the fuel pressure raised when I
pumped
> pressure into the FPR
> > vacuum line with a hand
pump. So, my FPR is fine. I was
> hoping that the
>
> relay bypass would solve my leanness at WOT, but it didn't.
>
:( Behavior is
> > still the same: cruising enters closed
loop mode normally,
> but at WOT I run
> > lean.
>
>
> > So, I'm back to trying to track down the problem. I
figure
> the root problem
> > is one of two things: either
the fuel pressure is not high
> enough, or the
> > injectors are
not being driven properly by the ECU for some
> reason.
Fuel
> > pressure is easier to check, so that's what I'm attacking
> first. My fuel
> > pressure gauge line isn't long enough
to reach out of the
> engine bay, so I
> > can't read the fuel
pressure while driving. I'm also thinking about
> > hotwiring the
fuel pump (I have a Supra pump, though). I'm
> running out
of
> > other possible sources for low fuel pressure though. If
> the problem is the
> > ECU not driving the injectors, I'm not
sure what it could
> be, and I'm also
> > not sure quite how I'd
go about figuring it out. Urrgh.
> This is getting
>
> frustrating.
> >
> > I'm REALLY open to any suggestions,
both as to how to
> attack the problem and
> > what might be the
source.
> >
> > Thanks to everyone who's made suggestions so
far!
> >
> > - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:11:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
> the chances of
an
> equal number injectors clogging an equal amount on both banks at the
same
> time are astronomically low.
[Willis, Charles E.]
Unless you got a hold of a bad tank of gas.
Sometimes water in gas gets past
the fuel filter.
> I'll probably run injector cleaner anyways
>
though, since I've been meaning to do that.
[Willis, Charles E.]
couldn't hurt!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:16:33
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: rebuilding my TT engine??
> The port and polish I’ll do my
self!
Good luck trying to do it right without a flow bench.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:21:01
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Phillp -
Thanks for
the suggestions. See comments below:
> From: "Geddes, Brian J"
<
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
>I got 37 PSI at idle, 44 PSI at idle with the vacuum line
>
>unplugged, and the fuel pressure raised when I pumped
> pressure into
the
> FPR
> >vacuum line with a hand pump. So, my FPR is
fine.
>
> Try to connect your boost gauge with a T to the pump to
> monitor the "boost"
> pressure while you are pumping up your FPR.
Your fuel
> pressure has to be 44
> psi plus the boost. This way
you will be 100% sure that you
> are getting the
> right fuel
pressure.
This is exactly what I did. It maintained the 1:1 ratio
that it should.
What I really need to do is check my fuel pressure when I'm
out driving,
rather than just when I'm sitting in my driveway. I'm
going to go to
Schucks today and pick up some fuel line and barbed fittings
so that the
fuel pressure gauge can reach out of the engine
compartment.
>
> See if you have the S-AFC sees the throttle
position signal.
> Check it on
> the S-AFC display.
Throttle
position sensor works fine.
>
> Bypass the S-AFC. See if
the car runs witout it (at idle, at
> half-load, and
> at WOT). If
it does, sell it, you do not need it! ;-)
I think I'll give this a try,
since it's pretty easy to remove the lines
that alter the airflow
signal.
>
> Borrow a MAS from someone. It only takes a couple
of minutes
> to swap the
> MAS with the filter (or the filter box)
attached.
I know a certain someone who has a wrecked '95 Black VR-4 that
hasn't been
sent to it's new owner yet...I think I'll sneak over and try
swapping the
MAS tonight after he's asleep. :)
>
>
Read the STIM on the Team3S website. It says what other
> inputs the ECU
is
> looking at to determine the IDC.
What does STIM stand
for?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:34:56
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
> > Borrow a MAS from
someone. It only takes a couple of
> > minutes to swap the MAS with the
filter (or the filter
> > box) attached.
>
> I know a
certain someone who has a wrecked '95 Black VR-4
> that hasn't been sent
to it's new owner yet...I think I'll
> sneak over and try swapping the MAS
tonight after he's
> asleep. :)
Then I'd have to kick
your... No cannibalizing Steve's (oops, did I say
that?) car while I'm
asleep. ...but if you give it back by 7AM tomorrow,
you can
try the MAS from my non-wrecked VR-4 :-)
> What does STIM stand
for?
Stealth Technical Information Manual, IIRC.
-
--Erik
'95 White Non-wrecked VR-4
'95 Black Wrecked VR-4
[SOLD]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:39:31
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>What does STIM stand
for?
Stealth Technical Information Manual. Look on
www.team3s.com, it should be
somewhere in
the FAQ section, I think.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:01:41
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Propane
For all you propane fans there is an article on page 144
of Car and
Driver July 2002 on a V-10 propane police car Ford is
doing.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:02:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Wiper Motor
- --- Kyle Call <
redcelicagt@cableone.net>
wrote:
> I'm sorry, I meant the motor for the wiper fluid
>
pump
The wiper fluid motor is attached to the bottom wiper
fluid
reservoir, under the battery tray.
I found a generic replacement at local
parts house for
about $25.
Due to it's location, battery leakage runs
down the
reservoir and onto the top of the fluid motor, then
down into the
motor windings.
Might as well do the fuel filter while you are
there.
Glenn
'93 VR-4 w/ new front wiper fluid pump.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:06:09
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>> > Read the STIM on
the Team3S website. It says what other
>> > inputs the ECU is
looking at to determine the IDC.
>> What does STIM stand for?
STIM stands for about 200 hrs of work on a scanner and computer.
:)
http://www.stealth316.com/2-stim.htmThe
STIM does not have all the anwers though. It refers to the SOHC 6G72 and
the
4G63 TIM for fuel injection specifics. You can look at my web page below
for
a summary.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2002 11:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner
at WOT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:07:34
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Ok my dyslexia is getting the best of me.
I am following the directions
for connecting it when the vehicle has a
wastegate. It wants me to
connect from the bottom of the wastegate and
then from the top. The
bottom would be the H connection above the
plenum and above the
wastegate would be the nipple on the y-pipe
correct? I was looking at
the diagram on the hood and that looks to be
right, but I may be getting
myself completely confused, it isn't a hard job
with dyslexia :-).
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Morice, Francis
[mailto:francis.morice@retek.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 11:49
AM
To: Joshua G. Prince;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Apex'i AVC-R
Joshua,
Just go to apex-i.com and download the
pdf instructions from there. You
can
also get the wiring
instructions there.
Good luck,
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua G. Prince [
mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com<
mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com>
]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 10:48 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Apex'i
AVC-R
Hey I just got my Apexi Avc-R to replace my HKS EVC IV and I wanted
to
see if ANYONE has ENGLISH instructions?!!?!?! My Japanese is
slightly
out of date...like 3 past life times ago :-). I was trying
to
determined the hook up from the pictures since the unit is
slightly
different then the HKS. There are two separate pieces which
are to
connect in the engine compartment. I am not sure what exactly to
call
them since the on unit has 2 valves and the other one looks to be
a
single valve. From the pictures, it looks like the one with only
one
nipple fitting (The piece is round with the nipple in the center and
a
flat mount on the bottom) is supposed to hook inline with the BOV.
Is
this correct? Again, I am going only on pictures and they are less
then
desirable. The Other piece has 2 nipples coming out of it, and one
hole
that is threaded for a nipple but no nipple in it, they are listed
Com,
No, and Nc. I am sorry to bother you guys but if anyone can tell
me
which is supposed to be hooked in line with the wastegate, Y pipe..etc
I
would really appreciate it and then the fun will come setting it
up
without directions :-(. Why can't these manufacturers put in
English
directions? I mean in Montreal Canada if the directions don't
come in
French, they won't allow it to be sold! Thanks for everyone's
help.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:24:56
+0300
From: "Erin Karsan" <
erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Top speed
> I purchased my lovely car a few months ago.
Last day I had a chance to
drive
> may car early in the morning and I
was trying its top speed. It acelerated
> to 152 beautifuly but than it
stopped revving and stayed there. Is it
> something normal, is it a speed
limitter or is there anything wrong my
car?
>
> I was reaching to
160 mph with my old impreza turbo easily.
>
> I am going to turn the
boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi continuous.
> Do I need a modified exhaust
(my cats are removed - free flow)? I am
really
> confused because
everybody is saying something different.
> Which is the best intake for
our cars stillen or K&N FIPK?
> Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or
the other one?
> Which is the best electronic boost controller for our
cars. Blitz, HKS or
> AVC-R.
>
> When I drive my car for 15
minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> smells gasoline and my fuel
consumption is high. My best drive was 220
mile
> with a full tank. Is
there anything that I may check or is it something
>
normal.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Erin Karsan
> 94-VR4,
cat removed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:12:50
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
>Ok my dyslexia is getting the best of
me. I am following the directions
>for connecting it when the
vehicle has a wastegate. It wants me to
>connect from the bottom of
the wastegate and then from the top. The
>bottom would be the H
connection above the plenum and above the
>wastegate would be the nipple
on the y-pipe correct? I was looking at
>the diagram on the hood and
that looks to be right, but I may be getting
>myself completely confused,
it isn't a hard job with dyslexia :-).
I have no idea what you are
talking about. Look at the Roger's website.
The installation of the AVC-R is
exactly the same as the installation of
the DSBC.
The little tube that
comes out of the Y-pipe goes to the stock solenoid.
Disconnect the stock
solenoid completely. Install the AVC-R solenoid
instead of it. Then the same
tube goes into the H-connector. The
H-connector has to be closed on one end
and made into an h-connector.
Close the other tube that you disconnected from
it. Keep asking questions
because I think I am forgetting
something.
>(The piece is round with the nipple in the center and
a
>flat mount on the bottom) is supposed to hook inline with the
BOV. Is
>this correct?
Aaaa-ahh! That thingie with a nipple
in the middle is called a boost
pressure sensor. You need to hook it up after
the throttle body. There is
a nipple on the intake manifold that you could
Tee into.
Again, I am going only on pictures and they are less
then
desirable. The Other piece has 2 nipples coming out of it, and one
hole
that is threaded for a nipple but no nipple in it, they are listed
Com,
No, and Nc.
That thingie with two nipples and a hole is called a
boost pressure
control solenoid. Find the Mitsubishi installation picture in
the AVC-R
manual. It says which of the nipples connect where. One of them has
to be
left not connected to anything.
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 19:30:37
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
> The little tube that comes out of the Y-pipe
goes
> to the stock solenoid. Disconnect the stock solenoid
>
completely. Install the AVC-R solenoid instead of it.
> Then the same tube
goes into the H-connector. The
> H-connector has to be closed on one end
and made
> into an h-connector. Close the other tube that
you
> disconnected from it. Keep asking questions because
> I think
I am forgetting something.
No, this isn't quite right. Set up
stock, the line
from the Y-pipe goes into the H-connector, then splits
off three ways to the two wastegate actuators and the
stock boost
solenoid.
The SAVC-R box with one nipple on it is the pressure
sensor
- you can Tee into the line that goes to the
BOV - that's manifold pressure,
exactly what you want
to read.
Remove the hose from the Y-pipe and
connect it to
the "output" of the SAVC-R solenoid box. Take a new
piece of vacuum hose and connect the nipple on the Y-
pipe to the "input"
of the SAVC-R solenoid box. Take
the two hoses off the stock boost
control solenoid and
plug them with something (bolts, screws, whatever
fits).
That should get you where you need to be...
Preferably, the
hose that goes between the H-connector
and the stock boost solenoid could be
removed from the
H-Connector and the nipple on the H-connector capped
off. The shorter your hoses in the boost control
system the
better.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:40:39
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Matt, that is perfect, I understand that.
The problem I have is on the
AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3
connections, Com, No,
and Nc. It says when setting up with wastegate to
use the Com and Nc
port but the other setup says to use the Com and No ports,
which are the
ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with nipples
in. So I just
need to know whether I need to move the one nipple to the
Nc port. In
my last email I said about connecting to the bottom and top
of the
wastegate, which is what the manual says when doing the wastegate
setup.
I was assuming since our cars had wastegates that I was to follow
the
wastegate instructions. Thanks again for everyone's assistance,
sorry
to be a bother.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow
Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 3:31 PM
To:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comCc:
Joshua G. Prince;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Apex'i AVC-R
> The little tube that comes out of the Y-pipe
goes
> to the stock solenoid. Disconnect the stock solenoid
>
completely. Install the AVC-R solenoid instead of it.
> Then the same tube
goes into the H-connector. The
> H-connector has to be closed on one end
and made
> into an h-connector. Close the other tube that
you
> disconnected from it. Keep asking questions because
> I think
I am forgetting something.
No, this isn't quite right. Set up
stock, the line
from the Y-pipe goes into the H-connector, then splits
off
three ways to the two wastegate actuators and the
stock boost
solenoid.
The SAVC-R box with one nipple on it is the pressure
sensor
- you can Tee into the line that goes to the
BOV - that's manifold pressure,
exactly what you want
to read.
Remove the hose from the Y-pipe and
connect it to
the "output" of the SAVC-R solenoid box. Take a
new
piece of vacuum hose and connect the nipple on the Y-
pipe to the
"input" of the SAVC-R solenoid box. Take
the two hoses off the stock
boost control solenoid and
plug them with something (bolts, screws, whatever
fits).
That should get you where you need to be...
Preferably, the
hose that goes between the H-connector
and the stock boost solenoid could be
removed from the
H-Connector and the nipple on the H-connector
capped
off. The shorter your hoses in the boost control
system the
better.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:55:21
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Find the MITSUBISHI installation picture in the
AVC-R English manual. It
says which of the nipples connects where. I did not
have to move those
nipples.
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------
The problem I have is
on the
AVC-R solenoid box, there are a possibility of 3 connections, Com,
No,
and Nc. It says when setting up with wastegate to use the Com and
Nc
port but the other setup says to use the Com and No ports, which are
the
ports (Com and No) that the solenoid came with nipples in. So I
just
need to know whether I need to move the one nipple to the Nc
port.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#868
***************************************