Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
866
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:33:13 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
*Complete*
spark plug info including online sources for the turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmSpark
plug cross-ref info for turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugxref.htmCurrently,
there are no PFR7J-11 plugs.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, June
09, 2002 11:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range
colder
Hi Team,
I am looking for one heat range colder NGK plugs.
I am interested in both
platinum and copper. I have wasted so much time
trying to find them on the
web it is getting ridiculous.
The stock
plugs are PFR6J-11 but nobody lists PFR7J-11. I am not even sure
this part
number exists. And what is the part number of the "copper plugs"?
Thank
you.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:37:37
-0500
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Drive train question
I can't find anything on the search page
about this so here goes.
The car is a 92 3000GT SL with 138,000
miles.
The left outer CV joint boot is split. I have only had the
car 6 weeks so
I am not sure how long it has been that way. I don't
think too long
because there is a considerable amount of grease still in the
boot. My
shop (not Satan) tells me that I should replace the entire
half shaft
because the labor is the same for replacing the boot and replacing
the
halfshaft ($300+) and the halfshaft is only $125. It is not making
any
noises or vibrations, I found the problem when I removed the brake rotor
to
have it turned.
Should I replace the entire shaft because of the
mileage? Is the labor for
an outer boot really the same as for the
entire half shaft?
Thanks one & all.
Jim W
92 3000GT
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:15:50
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
Jeff, I read
your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one range
colder plug that you
recommend BCPR7ES-11?
(Sorry if I got some of the letters wrong, I do not
have web access right
now)
Still have the question about the "copper
plugs". It seems that NGK makes
more than model of those. It that the V-power
plug?
Philip
*Complete* spark plug info including online sources
for the turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmSpark
plug cross-ref info for turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugxref.htmCurrently,
there are no PFR7J-11 plugs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:20:50
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
I think
BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
A guy at Sparkplugs.com told me that
the colder platinum plugs (a cheaper
platinum) are
BKR7EZX-11.
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff, I read
your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one range
colder plug that you
recommend BCPR7ES-11?
(Sorry if I got some of the letters wrong, I do not
have web access right
now)
Still have the question about the "copper
plugs". It seems that NGK makes
more than model of those. It that the V-power
plug?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:38:31
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
what physically changes to
the plugs to make them "hotter" or "colder"?
Also, what are the
benefits of a hotter or colder plug? Why not
always use a colder one
if it's less prone to knock?
Damon
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
wrote:
> I think BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
>
> A
guy at Sparkplugs.com told me that the colder platinum plugs (a cheaper
>
platinum) are BKR7EZX-11.
>
> Philip
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Jeff, I read your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one range
>
colder plug that you recommend BCPR7ES-11?
> (Sorry if I got some of the
letters wrong, I do not have web access right
> now)
>
>
Still have the question about the "copper plugs". It seems that NGK
makes
> more than model of those. It that the V-power plug?
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:37:39
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
The reason for
a colder plug is to prevent knock as you already stated,
unfortunately too
cold of a plug and they will foul out b/c they are unable
able to get up to
their self cleaning temp.
That is why most heavily modded turbo street
cars use a 7 sometimes an 8
heat range plug if they are driving alot on the
street and only a little
time at the track. My MKIV when at BPU used a
7 on the street but again
this was @ 16psi on 93-94 octane and 18 psi on 104
unleaded race gas at the
track.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell [SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent:
Monday, June 10, 2002 3:39 PM
> To:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
>
> what
physically changes to the plugs to make them "hotter" or "colder"?
> Also, what are the benefits of a hotter or colder
plug? Why not
> always use a colder one if it's less prone to
knock?
> Damon
>
>
>
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
wrote:
>
> > I think BCPR7ES-11 are the "copper" ones.
>
>
> > A guy at Sparkplugs.com told me that the colder platinum
plugs (a
> cheaper
> > platinum) are BKR7EZX-11.
> >
> > Philip
> >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Jeff, I read your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one
range
> > colder plug that you recommend BCPR7ES-11?
> >
(Sorry if I got some of the letters wrong, I do not have web access
>
right
> > now)
> >
> > Still have the question about
the "copper plugs". It seems that NGK
> makes
> > more than model
of those. It that the V-power plug?
> >
> >
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:38:31
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
> what
physically changes to the plugs to make them "hotter" or "colder"?
> Also,
what are the benefits of a hotter or colder plug? Why not
> always
use a colder one if it's less prone to knock?
Mostly insulator
length/depth changes the heat rating of the plug. You
don't want to go
to too cold of a plug because they will foul easier at low
loads. I
think one range colder is no problem on these cars, especially for
anyone
that's turned up the boost. For someone who likes to really beat
on
their car two ranges colder would probably work fine too. I'm
currently
using one range colder with no side-effects.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:41:20
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
>> Is the
one range colder plug that you recommend BCPR7ES-11
I don't know how I
can make it any clearer.
Quotes from my web pages where I describe the
part number key:
"Heat range (6 is medium, 5 is hotter, 7 is
colder)".
Those numbers apply to the NGK plugs.
For the Denso
plugs:
"Heat range (20 is medium, 16 is hotter, 22 is colder)"
For the
Bosch plugs:
"Heat range (7 and 6 are medium, 8 is hotter, 5 is
colder)"
The stock heat range for the 3S turbo models is the number
listed above
as "medium". The numbers above indicate the "direction" the
number goes for
colder heat ranges. Note that AC, Bosch, and Champion use
the opposite
direction "sense" than the NGK or Denso.
NGK "V-Power"
plugs. The footnotes in the Xref table identifies the V-Power
plugs in the
table. The only ones there are Jack T's favorites: R5672A-8. This
plug is a
non-resistor plug that is two heat ranges colder than stock. I
believe the
"V-Power" name comes from a cute little notch made in the end of
the ground
electrode (not quite as deep as that found in the "splitfire"
plugs).
Also, I do not "recommend" any of the plugs in the table (but
I do "un-
recommend" the multi-electrode Bosch plugs). The information is
there to use
as you wish. I list all of my sources for the crossreference
table at the end
of the web page below for those that want to check my
research or construct a
similar table for the non-turbo models. Warning:
there is conflicting
information between the various sources and
"replacement" plugs are not a two-
way street (for example, resistor models
are often listed as direct
replacements for non-resistor models).
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugxref.htmOne
factor that limits the variety of replacement plugsb available to us is
the
socket size of the hex shell. Our plugs use a 16-mm (5/8") socket. Many
other plugs (like the ones used in my Mitsu pickup) use a 20.6 mm (13/16")
socket (but same threads at the bottom). My standard 13/16" spark plug
socket
will not fit into the well in the valve cover. Maybe if there is some
sort of
thin-walled socket available, we could use these larger-hex size
plugs, which
include NGK resistor plugs colder than range 7 (now you know
why Jack went to
non-resistor plugs)! Denso is the same way: "22" (same as
NGK "7") is as cold
as it gets for resistor-type plugs.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, June
10, 2002 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range
colder
Jeff, I read your page. It was not very clear to me. Is the one
range
colder plug that you recommend BCPR7ES-11?
(Sorry if I got some of
the letters wrong, I do not have web access right
now)
Still have the
question about the "copper plugs". It seems that NGK makes
more than model of
those. It that the V-power plug?
Philip
*Complete* spark plug info
including online sources for the turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmSpark
plug cross-ref info for turbo models:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugxref.htmCurrently,
there are no PFR7J-11 plugs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:03:02
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
> their car
two ranges colder would probably work fine too. I'm currently
>
using one range colder with no side-effects.
A side effect is that I have
to change the plugs when the weather is getting
colder in autumn. Bad
accelleration and not so great idle when the engine is
cold. It is ok after
10 minutes of driving, depending on the
outside
temperature.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:13:28
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
> A side effect
is that I have to change the plugs when the weather is
getting
> colder
in autumn. Bad accelleration and not so great idle when the engine
is
>
cold. It is ok after 10 minutes of driving, depending on the outside
>
temperature.
Are you one range colder or two? I've driven mine with
one range colder in
30 degree F temps with no problems (if the weather is
colder than that, I
drive my pickup truck). I'm surprised that ambient
temps would affect the
plugs that much. The colder it gets, the
stronger the acceleration I get.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:24:56
+0300
From: "Erin Karsan" <
erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Top speed
> I purchased my lovely car a few months ago.
Last day I had a chance to
drive
> may car early in the morning and I
was trying its top speed. It acelerated
> to 152 beautifuly but than it
stopped revving and stayed there. Is it
> something normal, is it a speed
limitter or is there anything wrong my
car?
>
> I was reaching to
160 mph with my old impreza turbo easily.
>
> I am going to turn the
boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi continuous.
> Do I need a modified exhaust
(my cats are removed - free flow)? I am
really
> confused because
everybody is saying something different.
> Which is the best intake for
our cars stillen or K&N FIPK?
> Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or
the other one?
> Which is the best electronic boost controller for our
cars. Blitz, HKS or
> AVC-R.
>
> When I drive my car for 15
minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> smells gasoline and my fuel
consumption is high. My best drive was 220
mile
> with a full tank. Is
there anything that I may check or is it something
>
normal.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Erin Karsan
> 94-VR4,
cat removed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:30:31
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Top speed
Erin try the FAQ pages at
www.Team3s.com this has most of the answers
you
are looking for.
Also worth asking are you in Europe or in
the land down under? Reason I ask
is I know with some UK cars that have
a speed governor on them..... But
based on the speeds you are seeing I
believe your car just doesn't have
enough HP to overcome its own wind
drag.
The above problem is easy to fix just do the exhaust system mods
and an
intake. If you get really power hungry put larger injectors in
along with
some sort of piggy back fuel controller and then turn up the
boost. Again
if you have questions check the FAQ pages mentioned above
then check with
the list.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Erin Karsan [SMTP:erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr]
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002
4:25 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Top speed
>
> > I purchased my lovely car a
few months ago. Last day I had a chance to
> drive
> > may car
early in the morning and I was trying its top speed. It
>
acelerated
> > to 152 beautifuly but than it stopped revving and stayed
there. Is it
> > something normal, is it a speed limitter or is there
anything wrong my
> car?
> >
> > I was reaching to 160
mph with my old impreza turbo easily.
> >
> > I am going to
turn the boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi continuous.
> > Do I need a
modified exhaust (my cats are removed - free flow)? I am
>
really
> > confused because everybody is saying something
different.
> > Which is the best intake for our cars stillen or K&N
FIPK?
> > Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or the other one?
>
> Which is the best electronic boost controller for our cars. Blitz,
HKS
> or
> > AVC-R.
> >
> > When I drive my car
for 15 minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> > smells gasoline
and my fuel consumption is high. My best drive was 220
> mile
> >
with a full tank. Is there anything that I may check or is it something
>
> normal.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Erin
Karsan
> > 94-VR4, cat removed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:42:08
-0400
From: Steve Burrows <
3SX@BellSouth.net>
Subject: Team3S:
3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control Arms
Hey
everyone,
We have just introduced adjustable control arms for the twin
turbos. These
are the upper rear ones and allow you to get your car's
camber back into
spec regardless of the suspension upgrades you have done
(Eibach, Intrax,
Ground Control, Tein, etc). No longer do you have to
settle for being a
degree or even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the
camber straight to
prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive!
;-) tire wear. Another
advantage gained from the adjustability
is you can have "factory" 0 camber
setting for around town, then make a
quick twist to draw in the top of the
wheel to set some negative camber when
you head to the road course or
autocross. Just mark your settings for
street and track. We have pictures
and they are available on our site
at
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
Thanks,
Steve and EricB
BTW, We will be releasing these for the
NA's very soon.
BTW2, We recently released full/stock sized aluminum crank
pulleys that
weight 1.6 pounds, about 1/3 the weight of the stock crank
pulley. These
are available now and are this month's special.
Check them out :-)
3SX Performance Automotive
http://www.3SXPerformance.comTel:
704-563-7249
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:51:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control
Arms
The only downside, is the toe will be off for one of the chosen
settings.
Camber affects toe.
On Mon, 10 Jun 2002, Steve Burrows
wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> We have just introduced adjustable
control arms for the twin turbos. These
> are the upper rear ones
and allow you to get your car's camber back into
> spec regardless of the
suspension upgrades you have done (Eibach, Intrax,
> Ground Control,
Tein, etc). No longer do you have to settle for being a
> degree or
even 2 out (negative camber), you can get the camber straight to
>
prevent uneven, unnecessary (and thus expensive! ;-) tire wear.
Another
> advantage gained from the adjustability is you can have
"factory" 0 camber
> setting for around town, then make a quick twist to
draw in the top of the
> wheel to set some negative camber when you head
to the road course or
> autocross. Just mark your settings for
street and track. We have pictures
> and they are available on our
site at
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
> Thanks,
> Steve and EricB
>
> BTW, We will be
releasing these for the NA's very soon.
> BTW2, We recently released
full/stock sized aluminum crank pulleys that
> weight 1.6 pounds, about
1/3 the weight of the stock crank pulley. These
> are available now
and are this month's special. Check them out :-)
>
> 3SX
Performance Automotive
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com>
Tel: 704-563-7249
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield
parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:51:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control
Arms
Ohh..but cool product! *forgot to say that*
-
---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:39:56
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK plugs - looking for one heat range colder
One range
colder coppers and I get hesitations. I may change back to
platiums one range
colder soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Are you one range colder
or two? I've driven mine with one range colder
in
> 30 degree F
temps with no problems (if the weather is colder than that, I
> drive my
pickup truck). I'm surprised that ambient temps would affect the
>
plugs that much. The colder it gets, the stronger the acceleration I
get.
> :-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:27:34
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3SX Introduces Adjustable (camber) Upper Rear Control Arms
>
We have just introduced adjustable control arms for the twin turbos.
>
http://www.3SXPerformance.com/suspension.asp
.
> Thanks,
> Steve and EricB
Cool product, and a good
solution to a common problem. What sort of
strength do the replacements
offer compared to the stock control arms? I've
got a few friends who
I've done lowering springs for that could use these!
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:19:15
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Weight question
In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A,
they state that our
cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this
weight comes from.
Under the car the other day i noticed the gas tank is
metal. but where else
could the extra poundage be
hiding?
thanx
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:38:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
All the metal parts is my guess.
On
Mon, 10 Jun 2002
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
wrote:
> In every review of our cars, whether it be turbo or N/A, they
state that our
> cars are heavy and overweight. I am curious where this
weight comes from.
> Under the car the other day i noticed the gas tank
is metal. but where else
> could the extra poundage be hiding?
>
> thanx
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:41:44
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
I can answer alot of this question. first off
the drivers seat, ( if you
ahve full mechanical seats) weights 70-80 pounds,
cannot remember the exact.
if you own a all wheel drive you have 2 times the
axels, transfer case, all
wheel steering,, if you have it adds a second so
called rack in the rear.
talking to a few friends that work at dodge said
that there are like 4
layers of sound proofing and padding and carpet on the
floor, Do not know
what the exact weight is but he said approx.. 150 + of it
so there are a few
things you can think about,, then go take a look at yoru
car and really
think of all the small things that you wouldn't think of
seeing.....
Jerry 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
Cc:
< >
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight question
> All the metal parts is my
guess.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:42:24
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Consumption in DOHC NA 6G72
Posted for a friend - I will
relay all responses to him...
Problem Description:
-
---------------------------------------------
(INTERMITTENT!!!!) oil
burning. Slightly on startup until
warm but not consistently. No
significant oil burning
on the whole, maybe a quart every 4-5 tanks of gas
or
so. When the engine is hot and I am sitting in stop and
go
traffic on the freeway, if I am idling for a long
time, when I finally get a
break in traffic, I sometimes
get copious amounts of blue smoke. This
never happens
unless the engine is good and warm. Someone suggested
it may be valve guides, but it doesn't blow blue smoke
on deceleration
or coming down a long, steep incline
when manifold vacuum is high.
Rings would be indicated
by high oil consumption and consistent smoke.
Someone
else suggested PCV. It's not that because replacing it
didn't fix anything.
-
----------------------------------------------
Any ideas or suggestions
before he starts replacing valve-related stuff?
Thanks,
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:49:48
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Dell laptop (ideal for datalogging) for sale on eBay
My
Laptop is up for grabs on eBay. No reserve, no minimum bid, it will
be sold,
LOTS of accessories. Basic info is PII 266 MMX, 128 MB RAM,
6.02 GB HD, 13.3"
TFT, 10/100 NIC+56K cell combo card, CDROM, floppy,
carry case, 5 port 10/100
switch, plus more.
This laptop would be perfect for datalogging, I bought
it thinking I
might also be able to use it with a standalone, but I went the
piggyback
route for now. Was originally purchased for my wife in college, but
she
got her job and no longer needs it.
For all the info please check
out the auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2031131440That
needs to all be on one line. Picts are in the auction.
PLEASE SEND ALL
REPLIES DIRECTLY TO ME OFF LIST. I am sure all the
others would appreciate it
as well.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:37:40
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Indiglo gauge faces
<
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1835214881&r=
0&t=0>
Anybody
know anything about these Indiglo gauge faces?
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:56:19
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 1st gen Cam Sensor motor - DOHC, Non-turbo, for sale - like
new
Well, the title says it all...
A pressure tested, 3
month, unlimited mile warranty engine, in
beautiful, like new
condition. Guaranteed less than 40K miles, but
prolly closer to 30K
miles. I purchased it for my '93, and going by my
production date, they
shipped the right motor, or so we thought, but it
turns out my car has the
later motor, I knew that, but they went solely
by the production date.
Now, to save a little shipping, I would love to
sell it to a needy list
member for a touch less than I purchased it for
quite a bit actually, but
it'll be quicker for me in the long run
hopefully....
Cost:
$1600 plus I'll pay half of shipping. Shipping will be
approximately
$100 - $150, so the most you would pay would be $1675. I
can accept
various methods of payment, including credit card. Please
e-mail me
privately for details, or with any questions.
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:41:12
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Weight question
Power driver's seat is 60# and non-power
passenger seat is 40#.
I think someone was making a list of all the parts
and their weight
pulled out of a car sometime back in the archives. I
think Geoff and
Arty maybe on the "project" cars weighed things
too.
Yes there is a lot of weight in the interior carpeting.
Remember, this
is a touring car (GTO) and not some flimsy lightweight.
I find the
weight to be a bonus on the Interstate at 80 mph when a 40 mph
crosswind
hits. All cars shudder and slow and swerve. Not
me. I keep right on
straight ahead.
Instead of being penalized
by the weight I look for the ways it is a
help to me.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry
B.
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 19:42
I can answer alot of this
question. first off the drivers seat, ( if you
ahve full mechanical seats)
weights 70-80 pounds, cannot remember the
exact.
if you own a all wheel
drive you have 2 times the axels, transfer case,
all
wheel steering,, if
you have it adds a second so called rack in the
rear.
talking to a few
friends that work at dodge said that there are like 4
layers of sound
proofing and padding and carpet on the floor, Do not
know
what the exact
weight is but he said approx.. 150 + of it so there are a
few
things you
can think about,, then go take a look at yoru car and really
think of all the
small things that you wouldn't think of seeing.....
Jerry 93
Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:06:50
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: "Straight up trade. Brand new corbeaus for Stock seats"
First
of all, I am not the one selling them, but the guy that is has
been around
3si.org for quite a while. If you're interested DO NOT REPLY
TO ME, I am just
spreading the word for him since I backed out of the
deal (I'm 6'6", I BARELY
fit in my car with my helmet touching the roof,
I cant afford to not have my
seats if it doesn't work). Check it out!
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=10d6ab1271e2ef341b73333dd9d315eb&threadid=83527
That
all has to be on one line. Or just go to
www.3si.org click on
classifieds, then parts
for sale, and look for it there.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:30:38
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Hole in Firewall
I'm installing new gauges however I have a
problem. Just where is the
hole to get wires through the
firewall? If possible, please send pics.
Thanks.
-
-Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 02:34:06
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hole in Firewall
Courtesy of Jeff Lucius' site.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanelaccess.htm-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bradford J. Gay
Sent:
Tuesday, June 11, 2002 02:31
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Hole in
Firewall
I'm installing new gauges however I have a problem. Just
where is the
hole to get wires through the firewall? If possible,
please send pics.
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 10:04:07
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hole in Firewall
On the left of the steering shaft passing
the firewall and the other behind
the battery where the harness passes the
firewall.
Too easy for pics :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>I'm installing new gauges
however I have a problem. Just where is the
>hole to get wires
through the firewall? If possible, please send
pics.
>Thanks.
>
>-Brad
> 97 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:53:35
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 60k tools
Hey all,
I'm getting ready to do the 60k on my
vr4. When I was buying the
special tools from mitsu, they told me that I
don't really need the end
yoke holder and that their techs don't use it. I
didn't want to spend
$50 on a tool that I won't need, but we all know how
accurate and
knowledgeable satan's cronies are... so could anyone confirm or
deny
that? Do I need to run out and get it, or am I fine w/o
it.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:33:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
Rich will probably pipe in here. I watched him do a 60k
service, and as I
recall, the special socket tool that has the two pins that
engage in the
tensioner is MANDATORY. The mitsu tool that tries to hold
the crank
pulley so that you can loosen/tighten it (I think this is what
you're
referring to as the yoke here), is a piece of garbage that only
marginally
does it's job if accompanied by a lot of swearing, cursing, and
bruised
knuckles. You might be able to find a more capable tool at the local
parts
store, or even to fabricate one yourself.
Dave
On Tue, 11
Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I'm getting
ready to do the 60k on my vr4. When I was buying the
> special tools from
mitsu, they told me that I don't really need the end
> yoke holder and
that their techs don't use it. I didn't want to spend
> $50 on a tool that
I won't need, but we all know how accurate and
> knowledgeable satan's
cronies are... so could anyone confirm or deny
> that? Do I need to run
out and get it, or am I fine w/o it.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#866
***************************************