Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
850
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 24 May 2002 09:45:13 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
> I purchased a 93 Stealth R/T TT
with 80,000 miles. I ran the VIN.#, had it
> checked out by 2 mechanics
all said the car is in great condition. 6 days
> after I had the car the
Transmission broke. Needless to say I'm not
> impressed. After the fact
I've been talking to Stealth owners and all say
> the trans. are weak.
Just last night a gent said he replaced 2 trans. and
> the new one is on
the way out. I guess my question is if you guy's are
> running that much
HP how are you not breaking the transmissions? My car is
> stock except
for the K&N cone filter. 60000 maintenance was done. I'm now
> waiting
on a trans. from Kormex. What is the list running? Any help to
> restore
my faith in this car would be appreciated.
First off, sorry to hear about
your transmission troubles. Certainly no fun
there.
What is
broken on it? Won't shift, grinding shifts, stripped output shaft,
or
stripped transfer case input sleeve? Those are the most common
problems
(as far as I know). Here's a basic guide to what usually
causes each
failure:
Won't shift: Broken shift forks.
Typically caused by someone shifting
through the gears VERY aggressively and
not properly using the clutch. The
only preventative thing to do here
is shift either more carefully or more
skillfully.
Grinding
shifts: Bad synchronizer rings. You can get replacements
from
Kormex (and supposedly now through Mitsubishi/Getrag somehow).
Caused by
missed shifts and/or poor lubrication or using the wrong weight
lubricant.
It can sometimes be improved by switching to Redline fluids (50/50
mix of
MT90 and MTL fluids) or BG Synchroshift. If different fluids
don't help,
then the synchro should be replaced before gear tooth damage
occurs.
Stripped output shaft and/or stripped transfer case input
sleeve: Usually
caused by water getting into the mating surfaces
between the two parts and
corroding/rusting the splines thereby weakening
them. Eventually they strip
out. The only preventative thing that
I know is to lubricate the splines
and input sleeve with lithium grease each
time the clutch is changed or any
other service is performed that requires
removal of the transfer case. The
newer style sleeves/shafts are more
reliable than the older ones.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:17:32
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: "Matt
Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Sent: Friday,
May 24, 2002 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO
#s)
> You can get parts thru CRS Inc.
>
> They sell oem
parts I'll be getting delivery for my trans later today.
> Their
price is much less that Kormex for the syncro. Kormex wants 125 the
> the
1-2 syncro ring. They have it for $15.00 each. All three 1-2 rings for
>
$70.
>
> Goto 3si.org and you can find a thread with the
contact phone number(I
dont
> have it at work).
>
>
Alan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
> >
Grinding shifts: Bad synchronizer rings. You can get replacements
from
> > Kormex (and supposedly now through Mitsubishi/Getrag
somehow).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:19:59
-0400
From: "Anthony & Susan" <
jetbike@worldlynx.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
Mat,
I was driving home when I
shifted from 1st to 2nd (not on it!!!!) heard a
clunk and it felt like I ran
over a pot hole. At the next light when I went
to pull out the RPM'S went up
but the car would not move. I didn't smell the
clutch at all. I did get it
moving using higher gears (low torque no boost)
At idle it sounds like a
scraping as the motor spins. I took it to my
mechanic. He said when he
drained the trans. fluid a lot of metal came out.
That's where I'm at. Kormex
said they would let me know what broke when they
get the trans. back. As far
as shifting it was smooth through all gears and
that's what I don't
understand. What do you think?
Thanx
Anthony
93 Stealth R/T
Twin Turbo
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 10:45 AM
To:
Anthony & Susan; Stealth Mailing List (E-mail)
Subject: Tranny Stuff (was
DYNO #s)
> I purchased a 93 Stealth R/T TT with 80,000 miles. I ran
the VIN.#, had it
> checked out by 2 mechanics all said the car is in
great condition. 6 days
> after I had the car the Transmission broke.
Needless to say I'm not
> impressed. After the fact I've been talking to
Stealth owners and all say
> the trans. are weak. Just last night a gent
said he replaced 2 trans. and
> the new one is on the way out. I guess my
question is if you guy's are
> running that much HP how are you not
breaking the transmissions? My car is
> stock except for the K&N cone
filter. 60000 maintenance was done. I'm now
> waiting on a trans. from
Kormex. What is the list running? Any help to
> restore my faith in this
car would be appreciated.
First off, sorry to hear about your
transmission troubles. Certainly no fun
there.
What is broken on
it? Won't shift, grinding shifts, stripped output shaft,
or stripped
transfer case input sleeve? Those are the most common problems
(as far
as I know). Here's a basic guide to what usually causes
each
failure:
Won't shift: Broken shift forks. Typically
caused by someone shifting
through the gears VERY aggressively and not
properly using the clutch. The
only preventative thing to do here is
shift either more carefully or more
skillfully.
Grinding shifts:
Bad synchronizer rings. You can get replacements from
Kormex (and
supposedly now through Mitsubishi/Getrag somehow). Caused by
missed
shifts and/or poor lubrication or using the wrong weight lubricant.
It can
sometimes be improved by switching to Redline fluids (50/50 mix of
MT90 and
MTL fluids) or BG Synchroshift. If different fluids don't help,
then
the synchro should be replaced before gear tooth damage occurs.
Stripped
output shaft and/or stripped transfer case input sleeve: Usually
caused
by water getting into the mating surfaces between the two parts
and
corroding/rusting the splines thereby weakening them. Eventually
they strip
out. The only preventative thing that I know is to lubricate
the splines
and input sleeve with lithium grease each time the clutch is
changed or any
other service is performed that requires removal of the
transfer case. The
newer style sleeves/shafts are more reliable than
the older ones.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:27:40
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
Matt: Can a person of average
mechanical skill (like me) get the trans out
and swap out the synchros? My 93
tt awd grinds when I upshift. I also have a
lot of slop in the propeller
shaft from transfer case to rear diff. Sounds
like the spline problem you
were describing.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Anthony
& Susan" <
jetbike@worldlynx.net>; "Stealth
Mailing List
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 7:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO
#s)
| > I purchased a 93 Stealth R/T TT with 80,000 miles. I ran the
VIN.#, had
it
| > checked out by 2 mechanics all said the car is in
great condition. 6
days
| > after I had the car the Transmission broke.
Needless to say I'm not
| > impressed. After the fact I've been talking to
Stealth owners and all
say
| > the trans. are weak. Just last night a
gent said he replaced 2 trans.
and
| > the new one is on the way out. I
guess my question is if you guy's are
| > running that much HP how are you
not breaking the transmissions? My car
is
| > stock except for the
K&N cone filter. 60000 maintenance was done. I'm
now
| > waiting on
a trans. from Kormex. What is the list running? Any help to
| > restore my
faith in this car would be appreciated.
|
| First off, sorry to hear about
your transmission troubles. Certainly no
fun
| there.
|
| What
is broken on it? Won't shift, grinding shifts, stripped
output
shaft,
| or stripped transfer case input sleeve? Those are
the most common
problems
| (as far as I know). Here's a basic guide
to what usually causes each
| failure:
|
| Won't shift: Broken
shift forks. Typically caused by someone shifting
| through the gears
VERY aggressively and not properly using the clutch.
The
| only
preventative thing to do here is shift either more carefully or more
|
skillfully.
|
| Grinding shifts: Bad synchronizer rings. You
can get replacements from
| Kormex (and supposedly now through
Mitsubishi/Getrag somehow). Caused by
| missed shifts and/or poor
lubrication or using the wrong weight lubricant.
| It can sometimes be
improved by switching to Redline fluids (50/50 mix of
| MT90 and MTL fluids)
or BG Synchroshift. If different fluids don't help,
| then the synchro
should be replaced before gear tooth damage occurs.
|
| Stripped output
shaft and/or stripped transfer case input sleeve: Usually
| caused by
water getting into the mating surfaces between the two parts and
|
corroding/rusting the splines thereby weakening them. Eventually
they
strip
| out. The only preventative thing that I know is to
lubricate the splines
| and input sleeve with lithium grease each time the
clutch is changed or
any
| other service is performed that requires
removal of the transfer case.
The
| newer style sleeves/shafts are more
reliable than the older ones.
|
| -Matt
| '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:36:43
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
> Matt: Can a person of
average mechanical skill (like me) get the trans
out
> and swap out the
synchros? My 93 tt awd grinds when I upshift. I also have
a
> lot of
slop in the propeller shaft from transfer case to rear diff. Sounds
> like
the spline problem you were describing.
You could probably get the tranny
out following the clutch replacement
instructions, but I'm pretty sure you
need a press to get 1st gear off and
get at the 1-2 synchro. If you got
the parts, a tranny shop could probably
do the actual internal work for you
and then put it back in the car
yourself.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 18:54:24
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fishtailing in dry weather and almost normal road
How's the tread on your
tires looking?
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm**************
Mike
wrote:
Wednesday, May 22, 2002 11:13 PM
A note to everyone about
safety:
Today I was driving on the freeway ~70 mph in a zone where
the
construction guys prepared the concrete road for repaving. They
did
this by carving longitudinal small ruts in the road. It was a
slight
turn, and I had to break. I pressed on the breaks lightly, and
my car
started fishtailing. The car went to the right/left ~4
times. I
<BIG CUT>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:52:47
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
Thanks Matt: I will look at the
clutch page on Jeffs website. I have been
thinking about buying a press.
Harbor freight sells a 20 ton one for 150.00.
Sounds like maybe its time to
buy. Thanks. Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt
Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Andrew
Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>;
"Stealth Mailing List (E-mail)"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO
#s)
| > Matt: Can a person of average mechanical skill (like me)
get the trans
| out
| > and swap out the synchros? My 93 tt awd grinds
when I upshift. I also
have
| a
| > lot of slop in the propeller
shaft from transfer case to rear diff.
Sounds
| > like the spline
problem you were describing.
|
| You could probably get the tranny out
following the clutch replacement
| instructions, but I'm pretty sure you need
a press to get 1st gear off and
| get at the 1-2 synchro. If you got
the parts, a tranny shop could
probably
| do the actual internal work for
you and then put it back in the car
| yourself.
|
| -Matt
| '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:52:01
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: "corrected" 1/4 mile timeslips??? was - DYNO
#'s
Folks...
Having run the 1/4 mile for over 20 years (although
not "professionally"
within NHRA brackets), I have to admit I'm either dense,
stupid, or
uninformed (perhaps all three). How do you "correct" a 1/4 mile
ET???
All I've ever gotten is a timeslip with reaction time, 60' time,
1/8
mile time, and 1/4 time with associated speed. What do you
"correct"???
Perhaps I should use some number from the G-tech toy I have
and
calculate hp and torque, then "determine" what my 1/4 mile ET
"could"
be???
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday,
May 24, 2002 12:40 AM
To: Steve Cooper;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve
Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>
> Just something to keep in mind Jeff, Matt from Dynamic has run a
10.95
@
22 PSI (no happy gas @ 3600FT
> Wasn't that a "corrected " time and
not a "real " time?
> Steve
-
-------------------------------->
All the times posted on our Team3S
"Fastest 3S" page are backed up with
timeslips, and we don't accept corrected
times, only real times. In
December, Matt ran a 10.96 without NOS, and
a 10.89 with NOS, at 3600
ft.,
both uncorrected.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-fastest.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:02:34
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Resetting memory...ECU, AVCR, SAFC, etc.
Along the same lines of
resetting the ECU by battery terminal disconnection,
I have another
question...
Does anyone happen to know how long the Apexi AVCR and SAFC
will retain
their memory settings with a disconnected battery? I know
there are options
on them to actively reset to the defaults, but I'm
wondering how long it
would take before my settings are lost from a
disconnected battery if it
were left undone for several days,
etc.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
Unhooking the battery (or removing the correct fuse (I forget
> what it
is
> labeled - interior lighting?)) will reset anything that the
>
ECU has learned
> to this point back to the factory defaults, so the car
will
> spend a little
> more time relearning from scratch instead
of making smaller
> adjustments (if
> even that is necessary) to
the prelearned data.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:07:06
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Resetting memory...ECU, AVCR, SAFC, etc.
Dave,
I left
mine without power over a winter and the settings where still there,
figure
about 4-5 months.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:15:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
The 1st/2nd gear set comes off fairly easy but
I had my 3rd/4th on a
press at a shop and it hadn't moved at 6 tons --- I
chickened out at
that point for fear of breaking something. I thought the
synchros were
OK [ spare tranny ] I just figured I'd check them while I had
the tranny
apart. I probably requires heat to remove that gear set but I
didn't go
that far. Frank at Kormex always seems to be willing to help if you
get
to that point.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
> Thanks
Matt: I will look at the clutch page on Jeffs website. I have been
>
thinking about buying a press. Harbor freight sells a 20 ton one for
150.00.
> Sounds like maybe its time to buy. Thanks.
Andy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Jannusch"
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>
>
>
> | > Matt: Can a person of average mechanical skill
(like me) get the trans
> | out
> | > and swap out the synchros?
My 93 tt awd grinds when I upshift. I also
> have
> | a
> |
> lot of slop in the propeller shaft from transfer case to rear diff.
>
Sounds
> | > like the spline problem you were describing.
>
|
> | You could probably get the tranny out following the clutch
replacement
> | instructions, but I'm pretty sure you need a press to get
1st gear off and
> | get at the 1-2 synchro. If you got the parts, a
tranny shop could
> probably
> | do the actual internal work for you
and then put it back in the car
> | yourself.
> |
> |
-Matt
> | '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:23:12
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: "corrected" 1/4 mile timeslips??? was - DYNO #'s
Unless I fall
into one of the 3 categories you list (which is almost
inevitable at this
point- LOL), I believe they are referring to elevation
since air density
varies at different elevations. The only time I have
heard of 1/4 mi.
"corrected times" was for elevation. I believe the times
would be
corrected to "elevation at sea level" times if your elevation
was
different.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net> within
NHRA brackets), I have to admit I'm either dense, stupid, or
> uninformed
(perhaps all three). How do you "correct" a 1/4 mile ET???
> All I've ever
gotten is a timeslip with reaction time, 60' time, 1/8
> mile time, and
1/4 time with associated speed. What do you
>
"correct"???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:02:32
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Folks...
OK, here was a moment in history
that I hope everyone noted. Roger, who I admire for his scientific approach to
measuring the impact of mods has recognized that the only "real" indicator of hp
and torque is what you do with it. :-)
Soooo, as others have responded, I don't care if someone says they have a 5,000
hp engine, I'd still like to see a timeslip indicating that all those mods and
all those dollars can be translated into a significant improvement on the track,
whether lap times on the open track or a 1/4 mile ET on the
dragstrip.
Personally, I'm still eagerly awaiting the results of Arty's
monster. It may be a trailer queen, but it's the first car that I believe will
make it into the single digits. Until then, Jack T holds the documented
3KGT/Stealth record that I'm aware of, and it's in the high 10s.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 3:00 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
<snip>
Well, I believe Chuck that he
runned 1.4 bars of boost what is a lot for
sure. Therefore the hp numbers are
wrong. I'd also say that only the track
proves the real hp number ... I'd
never thought I'd say this ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:08:10
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:
This is the stuff i love about this list..."corrected"
times. So in
the Web world a guy in Colorado can say his exact same car will
beat
his buddy with the exact same car because he lives in Death Valley.
I
have been watching simulcast telivision shows ever since we got a
couch
and I have yet to see a showdown of a car in Denver and a car
in California
going for the championship at two different tracks for
the same tittle and
the tree launches them both...This could be a big
idea actually....the nascar
teams would no longer need to travel from
state to state and we could have
two or three cars on every track
every sunday rather than 43 all at once.
Then in the end of the race
thy could all get on the net and figure out who
had the fastest lap
times and who was in first.
Sorry for the
ranting....put me down for one of the three as well :)
As for the
technical side of this post.......If anyone is interested
(Jeff L.) I can
give you part numbers for the clips and stuff needed
for the side
skirts...stealth316 is very helpfull but the part
numbers in conjunction with
letters "c" would help out and save the
next person from ordering the wrong
stuff.....i know what you'll need
as well as what you don't
:)
bobk.
9399R/T
Grabber Green Pearl
Pics to be posted late
Monday
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
dblai@allstate.comTo:
Chris_Winkley@adp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: "corrected" 1/4 mile timeslips??? was - DYNO #'s
Date: Fri, 24 May
2002 11:23:12 -0500
>Unless I fall into one of the 3 categories you
list (which is almost
>inevitable at this point- LOL), I believe they are
referring to
>elevation
>since air density varies at different
elevations. The only time I
>have
>heard of 1/4 mi.
"corrected times" was for elevation. I believe the
>times
>would be corrected to "elevation at sea level" times if
your
>elevation was
>different.
>
>Dave
95VR4
>http://www.daveblack.net
>
>
>> within NHRA
brackets), I have to admit I'm either dense, stupid, or
>> uninformed
(perhaps all three). How do you "correct" a 1/4 mile
>ET???
>>
All I've ever gotten is a timeslip with reaction time, 60' time,
>1/8
>> mile time, and 1/4 time with associated speed. What do
you
>> "correct"???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:13:23
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
I know I'm not Matt. But, John Adams
has the process documented on his
website
www.vr4stealth.com. I have my transmission
apart in my garage rught
now. I plan to putt the gear set apart this weekend
and replace the 1-2
syncros.
www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/trannyAlan
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
>
Matt: Can a person of average mechanical skill (like me) get the
trans
out
> and swap out the synchros? My 93 tt awd grinds when I
upshift. I also have
a
> lot of slop in the propeller shaft from
transfer case to rear diff. Sounds
> like the spline problem you were
describing.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:15:51
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: DYNO #'s
A personal friend here in San Antonio also has hopes of
being the first
in the single digits with a 3/S car... He is gonna be
running twin 399R
turbos.... This car has been not in the build process
for well over a
year... Hopefully soon, I will be able to report how
fast it truly is
first hand...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Winkley
Sent: Friday,
May 24, 2002 12:03 PM
To: Roger Gerl;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Folks...
OK, here was a moment in history
that I hope everyone noted. Roger, who
I admire for his scientific approach
to measuring the impact of mods has
recognized that the only "real" indicator
of hp and torque is what you
do with it.
:-) Soooo, as others have responded, I don't care
if
someone says they have a 5,000 hp engine, I'd still like to see
a
timeslip indicating that all those mods and all those dollars can
be
translated into a significant improvement on the track, whether
lap
times on the open track or a 1/4 mile ET on the
dragstrip.
Personally, I'm still eagerly awaiting the results of Arty's
monster. It
may be a trailer queen, but it's the first car that I believe
will make
it into the single digits. Until then, Jack T holds the
documented
3KGT/Stealth record that I'm aware of, and it's in the high 10s.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 3:00
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
<snip>
Well, I believe Chuck that he
runned 1.4 bars of boost what is a lot for
sure. Therefore the hp numbers are
wrong. I'd also say that only the
track
proves the real hp number ... I'd
never thought I'd say this ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:49:07
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT Stopped Working
To the electrical engineering members.
Would anyone care to speculate on my
EGT gage. After my last open track
weekend, it stopped working. I've
confirmed that the gage has power, so
I suspect it's the pyrometer. Is
there a way to confirm this? The
needle cycles with the ignition as it
always does, but it stays at zero from
there on. Any suggestions would be
much
appreciated.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:54:50
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
My open track season started last
weekend. The scenario was much the same
as past events. It
started something like this: Glen the middle aged
instructor climbs in
and hands me the headset and says "you must be Dave.
I've never been in a
Stealth before. -Theres a first time for everything
Glen- Is it front
wheel drive? -No, it's all wheel drive- Oh, OK. Does it
have a
turbo? -Ya- OK Dave, lets pull out and remember to take it easy for
a
lap or two." Two laps later, said instructor is mumbling something
about
pulling like a Porsche turbo with unbelievable predictability. As
much as I
would like to take credit, anyone whose open tracked these cars
will tell
you, the credit goes to the car. The only competition we
found in B group
was one very quick M Coupe that I could only beat by turning
up the boost
and out running on the straight.
All is not rosey
however. I got caught in a downpore on the second day, and
instead of
dominating, I found myself letting people by as I skated around a
track that
seemed to have turned to black ice (on BFG Gforce KD's no less).
The
advantage coming off the turns is a no brainer, but turn-in and
especially
mid turn perfomance in my car was in the rain was freightning.
At one point
while following a slow M3 at a conservative pace, at mid turn
my tail
proceeds to come around while holding steady throttle. I steer in
every
direction trying to get hooked up before running out of track.
She
finally hooked up in the marbles a few feet from the edge of the
track.
Very unnerving. Rain driving comments in our cars would be
appreciated.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:53:11
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Resetting memory...ECU, AVCR, SAFC, etc.
The values are
stored in the EEPROM section of the CPU and therefore is
never
cleared.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> >Does anyone happen to
know how long the Apexi AVCR and SAFC will retain
> >their memory
settings with a disconnected battery? I know there are
>
options
> >on them to actively reset to the defaults, but I'm wondering
how long it
> >would take before my settings are lost from a
disconnected battery if it
> >were left undone for several days,
etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 00:00:44
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT Stopped Working
The only thing you can do is to hook a
multimeter onto the sensors wires and
see if the resistance is changing mroe
than at idle or easy driving. If not
the sensor is shot.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> To the electrical
engineering members. Would anyone care to speculate on
my
> EGT
gage. After my last open track weekend, it stopped working.
I've
> confirmed that the gage has power, so I suspect it's the
pyrometer. Is
> there a way to confirm this? The needle cycles
with the ignition as it
> always does, but it stays at zero from there
on. Any suggestions would be
> much appreciated.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 00:10:18
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
I was on the track at two rainy days
and one with snow. My experience with
fishtailing is when I did something
wrong. 99.9% I had understeer in rain.
When I did it right, I was able to go
through the turns pretty fast compared
to the BMW and Ferraris. When I pushed
the pedal too much aroudn the apex I
found myself sliding over all four
wheels. No fishtailing just going the way
I lost traction. I experienced
fishtailing when I felt to be too fast and
stepped onto the brake in the
turn. It started with understeer and after I
let off the brakes and went onto
the gas again the back became loose.
Definitely my fault that
time.
One thing I can tell for sure is that the tires are responsible for
changing
the driving style a lot. The Yokohamas where ok when hot but the
worst thing
in rain. The SP8000 and SP9000 are loud and hard but fantastic.
Never
experienced fishtailing with them. Next will be the new Goodyear F1-03
as my
M3 and Alfa Romeo buddies swear on them.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team3s"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 11:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Open Track Rain
Report
> My open track season started last weekend. The scenario
was much the same
> as past events. It started something like
this: Glen the middle aged
> instructor climbs in and hands me the
headset and says "you must be Dave.
> I've never been in a Stealth
before. -Theres a first time for everything
> Glen- Is it front
wheel drive? -No, it's all wheel drive- Oh, OK. Does
it
>
have a turbo? -Ya- OK Dave, lets pull out and remember to take it
easy
for
> a lap or two." Two laps later, said instructor is
mumbling something
about
> pulling like a Porsche turbo with
unbelievable predictability. As much as
I
> would like to take
credit, anyone whose open tracked these cars will tell
> you, the credit
goes to the car. The only competition we found in B group
> was one
very quick M Coupe that I could only beat by turning up the boost
> and
out running on the straight.
> All is not rosey however. I got
caught in a downpore on the second day,
and
> instead of dominating, I
found myself letting people by as I skated around
a
> track that seemed
to have turned to black ice (on BFG Gforce KD's no
less).
> The
advantage coming off the turns is a no brainer, but turn-in and
>
especially mid turn perfomance in my car was in the rain was
freightning.
> At one point while following a slow M3 at a conservative
pace, at mid turn
> my tail proceeds to come around while holding steady
throttle. I steer in
> every direction trying to get hooked up
before running out of track. She
> finally hooked up in the marbles
a few feet from the edge of the track.
> Very unnerving. Rain
driving comments in our cars would be appreciated.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:14:34
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT Stopped Working
> The only thing you can do is to hook a
multimeter onto the sensors wires
and
> see if the resistance is
changing mroe than at idle or easy driving. If
not
> the sensor is
shot.
Actually you need to measure voltage if you are measuring straight
off the
probe's wires. Set your voltmeter to the lowest scale possible
and you
should see a few milivolts - more when the probe is hotter.
(about 10mv at
250C and about 35mv around 850C).
I'd just check
through the wiring and make sure something didn't come loose.
EGT probes
don't fail that often.
If your gauge has a converter box between the
probe and the gauge, make sure
that is getting power too.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:51:30
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Simple enough
question. The SAFC can change the air signal to the ECU by
+-50%.
Stock 360cc injectors plus 50% would be 540cc. That would be 10cc
more
than what the SAFC can theoretically control but supposedly the ECU
can
handle injectors 10% higher than stock or 396cc injectors. Add 50%
and that
would equal 594cc.
Would there be any negative affects to
trying this (Besides running 2%
rich)?
Has anyone tried this
yet?
(Yes I know about the ARC2. I would rather use the SAFC
because of its
features.)
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:08:07
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> Simple enough
question. The SAFC can change the air signal
> to the ECU by
+-50%. Stock 360cc injectors plus 50% would
> be 540cc. That
would be 10cc more than what the SAFC can
> theoretically control
but supposedly the ECU can
> handle injectors 10% higher than stock
or 396cc injectors.
> Add 50% and that would equal
594cc.
Actually, since the SAFC can modify the airflow signal by +/- 50%,
then it
can theoretically handle up to 720cc injectors in our cars.
Hopefully the brain hasn't turned off prematurely due to the
imminent
weekend, so here's the algebra to go with it...
Is = Stock
Injector Size (360cc/min)
In = New Injector Size (cc/min)
C = SAFC
Correction (-0.50 < C < 0.50)
(1 + C) * In = Is
Solve for
C:
C = Is/In - 1
Solve for In:
In = Is / (1 + C)
For our
cars, "In" must be between 240cc and 720cc.
Who says you'l never use
algebra after high school? :-)
Have a good weekend...
-
--Erik
P.S. I'd think you'd probably not want to use the SAFC with
720cc injectors
because it'd leave you no room to lean it out if you needed
to. But 450s or
550s should work just fine AFAIK.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:09:02
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Absolutely it can
work. Here's a copy of a post I made on this subject a
little while
ago:
I just put in bigger injectors and an S-AFC in my VR-4, and so sat
down to
do some pre-install math. At first I tried the
intuitive
New_Injector_Size/Old_Injector_Size equation, but as I played with
it, it
just didn't seem right. I played around, and decided that when
determing the
amount of correction the S-AFC should give to compensate for
new injectors,
the equation looks like this:
c = Correction
Percentage
i = New Injector Size
i + ci = 360
Plug in i for
your new injectors, and then solve for c. This will the the
"mathematically
perfect" setting for the S-AFC...in real life, of course,
it'll need
tweaking. A few examples:
450s:
450 + (c)450 = 360
1 + c =
360/450
c = .8 - 1
c = -.2 = -20%
550s:
550 + (c)550 = 360
1 + c = 360/550
c = .66 - 1
c = -.33 = -33%
720s:
720 +
(c)720 = 360
1 + c = 360/720
c = .5 - 1
c = -.5 = -50%
These
calculations for 450s and 550s seem to mesh with the antecdotal
evidence I've
seen. I'm running 450s in my car right now, and after some
tweaking and
tuning I've got mine set at about -21% across the board. I've
also seen posts
from a few people running 550s with the S-AFC, and they all
seem to have
around -33% as their settings.
The addage of "you can't increase injector
size more than 50%" seems to come
from doing the math the wrong way.
When you install bigger injectors, you
actually need the S-AFC to adjust the
airflow DOWN, not up, because of the
higher flow rate of the new
injectors. So actually the rule should be "your
original injectors must
be at least 50% the size of your new injectors".
The S-AFC is a great
little box, and I hate to see it's capabilities sold
short.
- -
Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 4:52
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc
injectors?
>
>
> Simple enough question. The SAFC can
change the air signal
> to the ECU by
> +-50%. Stock 360cc
injectors plus 50% would be 540cc. That
> would be 10cc
>
more than what the SAFC can theoretically control but
> supposedly the
ECU can
> handle injectors 10% higher than stock or 396cc injectors.
> Add 50% and that
> would equal 594cc.
>
> Would
there be any negative affects to trying this (Besides running 2%
>
rich)?
>
> Has anyone tried this yet?
>
> (Yes I know
about the ARC2. I would rather use the SAFC
> because of
its
> features.)
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:07:02
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
EGT Stopped Working
It's a thermocouple probe so the sensor should show a
short doing a
resistance check or put the meter on the millavolt range and
see if it
varies with
temp.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
The only thing you can do is to hook a multimeter onto the sensors wires
and
> see if the resistance is changing mroe than at idle or easy driving.
If not
> the sensor is shot.
>
> Good luck
>
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:13:05
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> Absolutely it can
work. Here's a copy of a post I made on
> this subject a little
while ago:
Thanks Brian, I knew you had posted that before, but I'd lost
the message
:-) Brian did all the math... I just copied it.
:-) Oh well...
- --Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:19:59
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Open Track Rain Report
I've only had the opportunity to drive in the rain
for one session at Buttonwillow
is California. What I found to be
particularly useful was about every 30 seconds
or so I'd say to myself ---
"It's raining stupid"
BTW the KD is renowned for it's 'dry' handling
properties.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
> >
All is not rosey however. I got caught in a downpore on the second day,
and
> instead of dominating, I found myself letting people by as I skated
around a
> track that seemed to have turned to black ice (on BFG Gforce
KD's no less).
> The advantage coming off the turns is a no brainer, but
turn-in and
> especially mid turn perfomance in my car was in the rain was
freightning.
> At one point while following a slow M3 at a conservative
pace, at mid turn
> my tail proceeds to come around while holding steady
throttle. I steer in
> every direction trying to get hooked up
before running out of track. She
> finally hooked up in the marbles
a few feet from the edge of the track.
> Very unnerving. Rain
driving comments in our cars would be appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:30:57
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
I rebuilt my 91 5 Spd. on my own
with one exception. I had to have a
machine shop press the gears back
onto the shafts. I used a regular puller
ot get the gears pulled
off.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Andrew
Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>;
"Stealth Mailing List (E-mail)"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO
#s)
> > Matt: Can a person of average mechanical skill
(like me) get the trans
> out
> > and swap out the synchros? My
93 tt awd grinds when I upshift. I also
have
> a
> > lot of
slop in the propeller shaft from transfer case to rear diff.
Sounds
>
> like the spline problem you were describing.
>
> You could
probably get the tranny out following the clutch replacement
>
instructions, but I'm pretty sure you need a press to get 1st gear off
and
> get at the 1-2 synchro. If you got the parts, a tranny shop
could
probably
> do the actual internal work for you and then put it
back in the car
> yourself.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:37:40
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Interferance Motor!
OK, Lets say you are doing 65 down the
freeway. Not really on it jsut normal
drivinig. And your formost front CAM
gear decides to come of, ( Explaination
: I had to replace a piston and ROD
from a previous incident and removed the
CAM gear. I must not have tightened
it to spec and it came loose.) The
timming belt came off, had been chewed to
all god creation, pulled the crank
posistioning sensor clip apart and well
ripped the timming covers apart. Now
my question is I know it is very likely
that I bent the valves,, but how
likely is it. Is there anybody out there
that had popped a belt or slipped a
belt while driving at 65 and had been ok
with the valves? My vehicle is a 93
Stealth R/T T/T DOHC.
I all ready
have the mind set that i am looking at head rebuild, But if it
is worth my
time and a few people on the list have a good opinion I am
willing to slap a
new gear and belt on and see if it is damaged. But if it
is a definite that I
did damage then I am going to pull the motor and do a
total rebuild with all
performance parts. ( i.e J.E Pistons and Ealge Rods.
things of that
nature).
Any advice would be great,,
Thanks
Jerry 93
Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:50:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Interferance Motor!
Extremely likely.
Id bet Bob's
life on it.
On Fri, 24 May 2002, Jerry B. wrote:
> OK, Lets say
you are doing 65 down the freeway. Not really on it jsut normal
>
drivinig. And your formost front CAM gear decides to come of, (
Explaination
> : I had to replace a piston and ROD from a previous
incident and removed the
> CAM gear. I must not have tightened it to spec
and it came loose.) The
> timming belt came off, had been chewed to all
god creation, pulled the crank
> posistioning sensor clip apart and well
ripped the timming covers apart. Now
> my question is I know it is very
likely that I bent the valves,, but how
> likely is it. Is there anybody
out there that had popped a belt or slipped a
> belt while driving at 65
and had been ok with the valves? My vehicle is a 93
> Stealth R/T T/T
DOHC.
>
> I all ready have the mind set that i am looking at head
rebuild, But if it
> is worth my time and a few people on the list have a
good opinion I am
> willing to slap a new gear and belt on and see if it
is damaged. But if it
> is a definite that I did damage then I am going to
pull the motor and do a
> total rebuild with all performance parts. ( i.e
J.E Pistons and Ealge Rods.
> things of that nature).
>
> Any
advice would be great,,
>
> Thanks
>
> Jerry 93
Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:06:35
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Interferance Motor!
jerry/team:
I remember a thread about this
before. Although you're probably SOL, if you
could do a compression check
without causing futher damage, why not... to
see how your motor looks. Also
I'd recommend the search page since there's
plenty of us that have had this
happen.
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm*****************
Jerry
B. wrote:
<cut>
The
timming belt came off, had been chewed to
all god creation, pulled the crank
posistioning sensor clip apart and well
ripped the timming covers apart. Now
my question is I know it is very likely
that I bent the valves,, but how
likely is
it.
<cut>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 01:09:15
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
Interferance Motor!
> OK, Lets say you are doing 65 down the freeway.
Not really on it jsut normal
> drivinig. And your formost front CAM gear
decides to come of, ( Explaination
> : I had to replace a piston and ROD
from a previous incident and removed the
> CAM gear. I must not have
tightened it to spec and it came loose.) The
> timming belt came off, had
been chewed to all god creation, pulled the crank
> posistioning sensor
clip apart and well ripped the timming covers apart. Now
> my question is
I know it is very likely that I bent the valves,, but how
> likely is it.
Is there anybody out there that had popped a belt or slipped a
> belt
while driving at 65 and had been ok with the valves? My vehicle is a 93
>
Stealth R/T T/T DOHC.
>
> I all ready have the mind set that i am
looking at head rebuild, But if it
> is worth my time and a few people on
the list have a good opinion I am
> willing to slap a new gear and belt on
and see if it is damaged. But if it
> is a definite that I did damage then
I am going to pull the motor and do a
> total rebuild with all performance
parts. ( i.e J.E Pistons and Ealge Rods.
> things of that nature).
>
> Any advice would be great,,
>
> Thanks
>
>
Jerry 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
When I
sheared off the bolt that secures the timing belt
adjuster, I bent some
valves. Though not nearly as costly
or time consuming as a full
rebuild, I replaced pretty much
everything on top except the cams.
But
since you had pretty good luck the last go around maybe you
are more
lucky?
I could see the valve stems were bent by pulling the intake
manifold.
I'm not sure you can always tell by this method but mine were
really bent
and easily visible.
My pistons somehow survived that time
.....
Look on the bright side - it doesn't get really bad until you
start hating your
car!
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
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http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:21:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Interferance Motor!
Compression checks only work..if valves
seal.
Doubtful even with the BEST luck possible.
On Fri, 24 May
2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> jerry/team:
>
> I remember
a thread about this before. Although you're probably SOL, if you
> could
do a compression check without causing futher damage, why not... to
> see
how your motor looks. Also I'd recommend the search page since there's
>
plenty of us that have had this happen.
>
> 1993 stealth
rt/tt
>
> my ride:
>
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm>
> *****************
>
> Jerry B. wrote:
>
>
<cut>
> The
> timming belt came off, had been chewed to all
god creation, pulled the crank
> posistioning sensor clip apart and well
ripped the timming covers apart. Now
> my question is I know it is very
likely that I bent the valves,, but how
> likely is it.
>
<cut>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 02:37:35
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Interferance Motor!
I haven't been so lucky. I lost the timming
belt on the freeway at about 70
with my 91 RT. The net result is as
follows: 24 bent valves, 3 bent rods,
thrashed timming belt cover, munched
waterpump, and damage to the crank and
bearings. With just the upper
end work I am $2900 into the engine. I am
looking at another $3000 for
the remainder of the work, i.e. complete rebuild
of the short block with new
oil pump. (the car has 122K miles) I ought to
just get rid of
the thing, but it is in my blood, wouldn't know what to do
without
it.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 06:10:36
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Interferance Motor!
If we are talking a factory rebuild for the
bottom end, just go for a
factory new shortblock. They only cost around
$2200.00
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
MerisaPDX@aol.comSent: Saturday, May 25,
2002 1:38 AM
To:
tds@brightok.netCc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Interferance Motor!
I haven't been so lucky. I lost the
timming belt on the freeway at
about 70 with my 91 RT. The net result
is as follows: 24 bent valves, 3
bent rods, thrashed timming belt cover,
munched waterpump, and damage to
the crank and bearings. With just the
upper end work I am $2900 into
the engine. I am looking at another
$3000 for the remainder of the
work, i.e. complete rebuild of the short block
with new oil pump. (the
car has 122K miles) I ought to just get
rid of the thing, but it is in
my blood, wouldn't know what to do without
it.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 07:23:23
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Brian is absolutely
right. I've been running the old analog AFC for 3 years
with
550's. I'm still amazed that people spend so much time and effort
with
HKS. It takes about 5min. to tune the
AFC.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"'dakken'" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>; "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run
550cc injectors?
> Absolutely it can work. Here's a copy of a
post I made on this subject a
> little while ago:
>
> I just
put in bigger injectors and an S-AFC in my VR-4, and so sat down to
> do
some pre-install math. At first I tried the intuitive
>
New_Injector_Size/Old_Injector_Size equation, but as I played with it,
it
> just didn't seem right. I played around, and decided that when
determing
the
> amount of correction the S-AFC should give to
compensate for new
injectors,
> the equation looks like
this:
>
> c = Correction Percentage
> i = New Injector
Size
>
> i + ci = 360
>
> Plug in i for your new
injectors, and then solve for c. This will the the
> "mathematically
perfect" setting for the S-AFC...in real life, of course,
> it'll need
tweaking. A few examples:
>
>
> 450s:
> 450 + (c)450 =
360
> 1 + c = 360/450
> c = .8 - 1
> c = -.2 =
-20%
>
> 550s:
> 550 + (c)550 = 360
> 1 + c =
360/550
> c = .66 - 1
> c = -.33 = -33%
>
>
720s:
> 720 + (c)720 = 360
> 1 + c = 360/720
> c = .5 -
1
> c = -.5 = -50%
>
> These calculations for 450s and 550s
seem to mesh with the antecdotal
> evidence I've seen. I'm running 450s in
my car right now, and after some
> tweaking and tuning I've got mine set
at about -21% across the board. I've
> also seen posts from a few people
running 550s with the S-AFC, and they
all
> seem to have around -33% as
their settings.
>
> The addage of "you can't increase injector size
more than 50%" seems to
come
> from doing the math the wrong way.
When you install bigger injectors, you
> actually need the S-AFC to adjust
the airflow DOWN, not up, because of the
> higher flow rate of the new
injectors. So actually the rule should be
"your
> original
injectors must be at least 50% the size of your new injectors".
>
>
The S-AFC is a great little box, and I hate to see it's capabilities
sold
> short.
>
> - Brian
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: dakken [mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
>
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 4:52 PM
> > To: Team3S
> >
Subject: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> >
>
> Simple enough question. The SAFC can change the air signal
>
> to the ECU by
> > +-50%. Stock 360cc injectors plus 50%
would be 540cc. That
> > would be 10cc
> > more than
what the SAFC can theoretically control but
> > supposedly the ECU
can
> > handle injectors 10% higher than stock or 396cc
injectors.
> > Add 50% and that
> > would equal 594cc.
>
>
> > Would there be any negative affects to trying this (Besides
running 2%
> > rich)?
> >
> > Has anyone tried this
yet?
> >
> > (Yes I know about the ARC2. I would rather
use the SAFC
> > because of its
> > features.)
>
>
> > Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT TT
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 08:30:16
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spare tire
Where might I find a replacement spare tire? The wheel
is fine but the tire
is BALD!!! Looks like a worn motorcycle
slick...
Dealerships have no idea about tires, or at least the one's I've
talked
to...
I think I found the solution to lifter tick, BTW. Instead
of messing with
oil weight, just install a subwoofer. You will never hear the
tick again. Or
anything else for that matter...
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#850
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