Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
849
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 May 2002 09:29:45 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
HELP!!! air intake problem!
I don't know, I'm just not getting it..
should be pretty straight
forward.. one end of the silicone hose goes over
the end of the pipe..
tighten that down with a clamp.. and the rest of it
goes over the
throttle body.. tighten that down with a clamp.. should be it..
maybe
it's not a smooth finish and it wont get sealed airtight? Or maybe
the
hose is too big and is getting crimped when you tighten down on
the
throttle body? Is that what you mean? From what it sounds like, are
you
putting both the hoses on the throttle body and trying to fit the
pipe
_over_ them? Need more details
Omar
Black 92 R/T
-
-----Original Message-----
Hey guys-just got a K&N FIPK, and intake pipe
from dynamic racing for my
SL.
The filter was easy enough to install-but
the pipe is a BIG problem.
First-it
doesnt seem to fit right, second, the
seal is FAR from air tight-i
parked the
car for the nite as i was getting
very fustrated, but i cant use it till
i
get it fixed obviously. I will
try to call DR tomarrow for assitance,
but any
experiance here would be
very helpful. The pipe came with 2 red
insulators-
so i thought to put
them over the openings to get a better seal. Didnt
work.
I feel like a
dork for thinking i could get it done in an hour. Right
now the
car has
the battery connected and everything plugged in-but i wont turn
it on
again till ican be sure i know everything is right. Thanx
guys
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:49:13
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: A pillar install
Wow! if that isn't a convoluted
explanation .... and misleading if not wrong.
The dimmer switch is a simple
rheostat - even marked as such on the Meters and
Gauges circuit diagrams.
Ground "voltage" is never changed. "Supply" voltage
is never changed.
However, voltage *across the device* is changed by varying
the resistance in
the rheostat by turning a knob. Other examples of "variable
resistance"
devices are the throttle position sensor and fuel level sensor. In
all these
cases, ground is still ground and hot is still hot - used
individually.
Eric is correct in that voltage across the device can
vary and so it is not a
good power *and* ground source for devices requiring
"constant" voltage. In
the middle of my instrument panel removal web page I
discuss in more detail
the dimmer switch connector, fondly known as
connector D-40.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanel.htmAs
Erik mentions, and as has been mentioned in posts to this list many times,
if you *do* want the voltage to change (lights to dim for example) both the
positive and negative light wires must connect to D-40. If you connect only
a
positive (power) wire to D-40 then no dimming can occur and D-40 acts like
any
other ignition switched (IG1) power source.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>; <
aa2345@wayne.edu>; <
Team3S@stealth-
3000gt.st>
Cc: <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 22, 2002 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: A pillar
install
I'm a little late in this one - been out of town for a few
days...
> > >Im wiring the guage light into the radio dimmer,
that way
> > >if I dim my cluster lights, the guage light will dim
as well!
> > Do not try to wire the gauge in such a way so that it
will
> > dim down with the dimmer switch.
> Depends
on the guage, I have the HKS peak hold and they have
> a seperate wire
for the light.
3/Ss (and DSMs AFAIK) use a floating-ground dimming
circuit to handle the
interior lighting. I can go into more details if
you like, but the
over-simplification is that instead of reducing the power
wire (+12V)
voltage to dim the lights, it raises the ground wire (+0V)
voltage. This
means that if you move the dimmer so that the voltage
across the lights is
8V (rather than 12V), the power (+12V) wire has *not
changed its voltage to
8V* - what happens is that the ground wire (used to be
+0V) is now at +4V
and the power wire is still at +12V (12V - 4V = 8V across
lights). I was
quite dismayed when I realized this as I was trying to
wire up my gauges...
So the point of all this is that some gauges have
separate power wires for
lighting, constant, and switched circuits... but
they usually (all that I've
seen) have only one ground wire. This means
that if you hook the power wire
for the gauge lights to the power wire for
the interior lights, the gauge
lighting won't dim. If you hook up the
ground wire for the gauges to the
ground wire for the lights, the memory and
gauge functions will not work if
you dim the lights much (because the gauge
has one ground wire for
everything).
Thus, unless you have a
mechanical gauge (like Jim mentioned) that only has
one power/ground
connection that is ONLY for the lighting, you are SOL as
far as getting your
gauge lighting to dim with the rest of the interior
lighting. At least,
I've not figured an easy way to make an electronic
gauge's lighting circuit
work with the stock interior lighting circuit. If
anyone has made it
work, PLEASE let me know :-)
If I get motivated, I may jury-rig a
circuit that will invert the stock
dimming functionality so I can make the
electronic gauges work... but so far
I've been lazy.
-
--Erik
'95 Black on White VR-4 (parts)
'95 White on Black VR-4 (whee!)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:06:49
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
A little clarification about this BSFC argument:
BSFC is "brake specific
fuel consumption". It is an engine efficiency
measure. It measures how
much fuel is being burned to generate 1 horsepower
(kW) of engine output.
Jeff, Roger, please help me with the measurement
units. Is it g/kW-h?
Basically, the engine has to be very-very efficient
in order to generate
that much horsepower with that little
fuel.
Philip
-
----------------------------------------
Here's a link to the supra guys
and their dynos ....
http://vache.org/supra/turbos.htmIt
seems they all run a BSFC of below 0.4 !! Or how can we explain
this
good
numbers ? 640hp @ 21 psi of boost.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:13:36
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Just like last year, Chuck gives us no track
times/speed (reported either here
or at 3SI) for a car "taken to the track
often". I do not doubt the numbers
reported by the dyno, I (and many others)
just want to know what the *real*
power and performance of the car is. For
the record, "Phalse" has run like
11.99 in the 1/4 mile with one 13G turbo
and one 9B turbo and minimal mods.
Now performance like that out of an el
cheapo setup wouldn't embarrass the
mega-buck, mega "HP" TD05 crowd would
it? :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
StealthCT@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
May 22, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: DYNO #'s
To answer some of your
questions, I do have a CFDS, I have the RPS
Carbon/Carbon set up which
includes a light weight flywheel and I do dyno
with the Volks. I
believe my biggest improvement over earlier results was
the installation of
the Pit Road M Cams. I don't have a scanner however if
anyone wants a
copy of my run please contact AAM and I am sure they will
provide one.
As a side note there was another 3SI member there at the time
of the dyno
testing who had driven from Ohio to have his car dynoed also.
His car
was dynoed right after mine (within an hour) and you can see his
results on
the 3SI site and I am sure if you want to E-mail him he can
confirm my
results as some of you apparently do not trust AAM. Regards
Chuck
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:20:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
My apologies to the list and to Chuck for not having
read further down the
mail bag before posting. Thanks for posting the
numbers. 11.7 with NOS and 15G
turbos.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 23, 2002 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:27:51
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Just something to keep in mind Jeff, Matt from
Dynamic has run a 10.95 @ 22
PSI (no happy gas @ 3600FT) with spark
blowout issues. If the spark
blowout can be corrected he should have a
low 10sec 3S at like 25 PSI (still
well with in the efficiency range of 368's
and 18G's)
Hey Jeff you are extremely knowledgeable but theory and
reality don't always
agree that's why I prefer to look before I leap
;)
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not out....
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:jlucius@stealth316.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 10:20
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
>
> My apologies to the list and to
Chuck for not having read further down the
>
> mail bag before
posting. Thanks for posting the numbers. 11.7 with NOS and
> 15G
>
turbos.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:24:33
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: A pillar install
> Wow! if that isn't a convoluted
explanation .... and
> misleading if not wrong.
Sorry if it was
misleading... I knew that the people on the list who have
a
decent understanding of electronics would find missing details in
my
explanation, but I was trying to put it in terms that people on the list
who
just think of things in terms of "the positive and negative wires"
would
understand. I don't assume everyone here is a EE. I also
mentioned that it
was an over-simplification.
> The dimmer switch
is a simple rheostat - even marked as such
> on the Meters and Gauges
circuit diagrams.
I never said it was anything other than a rheostat -
actually, I never said
what it was. My assumption is that not everyone
knows what a rheostat is
and I didn't want to explain that.
>
Ground "voltage" is never changed. "Supply" voltage
> is never
changed.
I said that the lighting's "ground wire" voltage is changed,
not that
[chassis] ground is changed. Meaning that the (-) wire to the
lighting has
its voltage raised by the dimmer switch. Chassis is ground
is +0V. Always
(in our cars). The lighting's negative terminal (I
called it the lighting
"ground wire") is not connected to the chassis, and I
was trying to indicate
this without going into more detail than necessary to
hook up gauge lighting
connections.
On your page, you say, "The
rheostat dims the lights by increasing the
resistance to current
ground." While that's exactly as I understand the
circuit, I had my
doubts as to whether someone with no EE/electronics
background would know
what that means. Thus I tried to say it another way -
that the voltage
on the "ground wire" for the lights (or the effective
ground) was raised by
adjusting the dimmer switch.
I'm not at all saying that Jeff's
explanation is incorrect, or that I don't
appreciate his contributions
here. I was simply trying to respond to a
question without getting
mired in details that not everyone would
understand. If I simplified
things too much and confused people, then you
have my apologies.
>
As Erik mentions, and as has been mentioned in posts to this
> list many
times, if you *do* want the voltage to change
> (lights to dim for
example) both the positive and negative
> light wires must connect to
D-40. If you connect only a
> positive (power) wire to D-40 then no
dimming can occur and
> D-40 acts like any other ignition switched (IG1)
power source.
I don't have my service manual here, but the above
statement seems to imply
that the positive D-40 connection is not switched
with the lighting switch
and is switched by the ignition(if it's an IG1
wire). I know I had my
electronic gauges working with switched
lighting, and the rest of the
electronics worked with the lights off, so I'm
pretty sure that the positive
terminal in D-40 is switched by the lighting
switch. Also, if it's an IG1
(switched by the ignition) wire, then how
do the interior lights turn on
when there's no key in the ignition? Ok,
now I'm confused... I'll have to
go home and look at those diagrams
again.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 11:06:49
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S: BG
44K
I'm in the San Franciso Bay area and have yet to find any place
locally
which sells BG products, BG 44K in particular. I'm wondering if
anyone out
there knows of a source in Northern California, or if there is a
good
internet source.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 12:16:24
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BG 44K
Try
www.3sxperformance.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 12:07 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: BG 44K
I'm in the San Franciso Bay area and have yet to find any
place locally
which sells BG products, BG 44K in particular. I'm wondering
if anyone out
there knows of a source in Northern California, or if there is
a good
internet source.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:27:58
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hesitation problem
I would take a look at those "new Magnacore
wires". Make sure all wires are
on tightly and not arcing. You
don't want a "light show" in the engine bay
: )
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.netOk 92 VR4,
idles fine but won't run at a constant speed fine, such
as 60
MPH in 5th.
It cuts out every so often, not so much that the tach moves, but
you can feel
it. When the car is cold it is more pronounced than when it is
warm. The car
has new timing belt, new water pump (replaced with the belt)
new spark plugs
at stock gap, new Magnacor 8mm wires, new fuel filter and a
K&N FIPK.
Other than the K&N the car is stock.
When accelerating it doesn't
hesitate, but I can't accelerate for
ever ;-).
Tried different gears
at the same speed, as well as different speeds
to see
if that would change
the effect. There is a slight change, it is worse at
lower speeds/RPMs but
does it at any speed/RPM.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:12:01
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A pillar install
Well I'm batting about 0 today. :) The
positive side of D-40 is routed through
the taillight relay. Erik is
correct, the lighting switch (column switch)
completes the path to ground to
switch the taillight relay "on".
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Jeff
Lucius'" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; "Team3S
List (E-mail)"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 23, 2002 11:24 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: A pillar
install
<snip>
I don't have my service manual here, but the
above statement seems to imply
that the positive D-40 connection is not
switched with the lighting switch
and is switched by the ignition(if it's an
IG1 wire). I know I had my
electronic gauges working with switched
lighting, and the rest of the
electronics worked with the lights off, so I'm
pretty sure that the positive
terminal in D-40 is switched by the lighting
switch. Also, if it's an IG1
(switched by the ignition) wire, then how
do the interior lights turn on
when there's no key in the ignition? Ok,
now I'm confused... I'll have to
go home and look at those diagrams
again.
- --Erik
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 20:55:32
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
HELP!!! air intake problem!
Bob -
Do yo need to do this "learn
mode" procedure if you have added the K&N
filtercharger - the replace air
filter cartridge that fits into the
stock housing, not the cone shaped add-on
air filter?
I searched the FAQ's and they talked about AVC. Is this
the same
thing?
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
> Hey,
Mike,
>
> Disconnect the battery negative and leave it off for 10
minutes or so. If
> you put back the connector to the MAS(?) and you
have a sealed path, when
> you start again, the ECU will go into "learn"
mode to reset the engine for
> more air coming in. BTW, did you get
a drop-in filter, or a complete new
> unit with a conical filter to
replace the entire airbox? The latter is the
> FIPK, the former is
just called a filtercharger or something.
Steve Simonds '94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:14:31
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP!!! air intake problem!
> Bob -
> Do yo need to do
this "learn mode" procedure if you have added the K&N
> filtercharger
- the replace air filter cartridge that fits into the
> stock housing, not
the cone shaped add-on air filter?
-
--------snip------------->
Whenever you make *any* system changes, the
recommended procedure always
begins with, "Disconnect the battery negative
terminal". Simply replacing
the existing filter with a slightly less
restrictive one probably does not
fall into this "system change" category,
but since it's so easy to do, I
always did it anyway (with the drop-in
filters, before I installed the
FIPK)... It certainly can't hurt, but
it's probably not necessary. But I
admit that even when I clean my
FIPK..., while I'm doing it, I unhook the
neg terminal, so it resets
everything at optimum from forcing the
learn
mode.
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 22:45:32
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Team3S: Please Help: Finally got car to start, but still not
right
Ok,
Finally got my new plugs and ecu today.
Put the ECU in...same thing.
Wouldn't turn over. Put the new plugs
in...Started up (after a couple
secs). BUT....I'm back to where I
started before teh car woudln't start.
It is pouring out grey smoke and it
doesn't respond well at all. If I
press the accelerator, it takes a few
secs to respond. First the RPMs
drop as if its going to stall, then it
revs. I plugged the datalogger in
and it all looks ok, but then I'm not
best at reading everything. I can
post the logs if anyone wants.
I looked over the intake and it all seems
ok. What should I
check? Would O2 sensors cause this? It seems like its
running WAY
too rich, however my A/F guage and datalogger don't reflect
that
condition. What else?
Please help me out, I really want my car
back.
Thanks,
Chris Cook
On Fri, 17 May 2002,
Chris Cook wrote:
> Thanks,
> Last night I
picked up some starting fluid from NAPA, although I
> sprayed it in the
Y-Pipe (Just alot easier to take off and put back on.)
> Didn't start the
car. I'll try again tonight by taking the Y-pipe off and
> spraying
it directly into the throttle body.
>
> Also, if I
modulate the accelerator (down to the floor and back)
> quickly,
sometimes...sometimes..it sounds like 1 or 2 cylinders fire and
> that it
/may/ start, but never does. I'm wondering if this is going back
>
to my new refurbed ECU being fried. Possibly not using correct A/F
>
mixtures in combination with not firing the
plugs.
>
> I just ordered new plugs for my car as
they need to be replaced anyway
> (have about 40,000 miles on them).
I'm going to try the NGK Coppers
> assuming I can get the car working
again. In the meantime, I am going to
> send my ECU back to foreign
ecu repair and have them test the unit they
> sent me in addition to
testing my old ecu which I'm sending to them for
> core exchange
anyway.
>
> What should I gap the NGK coppers
to? Currently, I set the gap on my
> double platinums to .034"
Should I go w/ the same on the Coppers?
>
> I have
not had my car running for nearly 3 weeks now. It is so
>
frustrating.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
>
On Thu, 16 May 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
>
> > Chris-
>
>
> > Let me put it this way. If you're definetely getting fuel,
that's good. But
> > a can of starting fluid is usually under $5. I
bought pyroil (cheap, value
> > brand like $2), although I don't feel
that there's any difference between
> > which brand fluid you get.
There are a few unlikely things (such as
> > water/sugar in your gas)
or a clogged/restricted fuel filter which
> > drastically reduces fuel
pressure. The point of starting fluid is to
> > COMPLETELY ELIMINATE
the chance that one of these other obscure, often
> > overlooked
problems is occurring. If you car starts off of the fluid, then
> > you
know for SURE that you have good timing, sufficient spark, and a
> >
functional electrical system. If starting fluid won't start it, you can
be
> > pretty sure that the problem is electrical related, because
starting fluid
> > WILL start the car if it's electrically able to
start. So let's go from
> > there and see what happens, unless you have
other ideas :)
> >
> > Take off the Y-pipe and shoot the
stuff straight into the throttle body
> > (not just into the Y pipe or
air filter because less concentrate hits the
> > plugs) for about 2-3
seconds. Preferably, you want a friend/family
> >
member/relative/cat/dog to help you push down the gas pedal while you
shoot
> > the fluid in the TB, then immediately release the pedal and
try starting the
> > car right after you stop spraying. This guarantees
that the air inside the
> > TB is charged and primed to fire. Doesn't
work? Do it again. Still no luck?
> > Must be an electrical fault.
Also, if there's no one to help you, you can
> > always pull the
throttle lever by yourself while spraying the fluid in, but
> > in this
case you're more likely to fumble and get the fluid all over your
> >
hands, or lose that thin red spray nozzle somewhere enough said.
>
>
> > Riyan
> >
> > P.S. now a reason
not to do this would be if you lived in a rural area and
> > the auto
parts store is a pain in the ass to get to. Good luck. Keep us
> >
posted.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:36:29
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: HELP!!! air intake problem!
Heh Heh-opps
It appears that i
forgot to pull out the other 2 clamps from the box. SO now
each end of the
intake pipe has a rubber insulator with 2 clamps tightened on
it. It wasnt
fitting right because #1- i had the insulator on backward #2-i
was fustrated
after 3 hours of working on it #3-it was dark out, and my hands
were numb.
Forrest- You are correct- after starting the car the idle speed seemed
unsure
for bout 30 seconds- then the idle speed dropped bout 100 RPMS-and
thats
where it stays. The MAS tells the computer to supply more fuel to the
injectors because of the increased airflow. Sounds excellent-id recommend
this setup for any N/A guy. The only thing that takes a little getting used
to is that loud vacuum suck of the K&N-but after closing the hood u cant
even
hear it.
- -mike
97 SL
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 22:52:04
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP!!! air intake problem!
> Whenever you make *any* system
changes, the recommended procedure always
> begins with, "Disconnect the
battery negative terminal". Simply replacing
> the existing filter
with a slightly less restrictive one probably does not
> fall into this
"system change" category, but since it's so easy to do, I
> always did it
anyway (with the drop-in filters, before I installed the
> FIPK)...
It certainly can't hurt, but it's probably not necessary. But I
>
admit that even when I clean my FIPK..., while I'm doing it, I unhook
the
> neg terminal, so it resets everything at optimum from forcing the
learn
> mode.
I'd say it isn't necessary or even helpful to
disconnect the battery, but
like Bob says - it doesn't hurt.
If I
adjust my fuel trim values for idle and cruising on my PMS (like an
AFC/ITC
together - only much more flexible) the ECU compensates for the
changes
within a few seconds. The learning mode is always active as the
car
tries to always run optimum fuel and spark advance whenever possible
-
particularly in closed-loop cruising mode and idle.
Unhooking the
battery (or removing the correct fuse (I forget what it is
labeled - interior
lighting?)) will reset anything that the ECU has learned
to this point back
to the factory defaults, so the car will spend a little
more time relearning
from scratch instead of making smaller adjustments (if
even that is
necessary) to the prelearned data.
Just my opinion - you can go either
way with no real consequences.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:13:06
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
I found traces of oil in the left input to the
y-pipe, but not the right.
I'm assuming that one of my turbos is blown. Which
one feeds in on the left?
This of course had to happen just as I ordered
my Blitz i-D...
Since I now have been forced into the market fer new
turbos (or used ones),
if anyone has a set they'd like to get rid off (not
necessarily stockers -
I'd even prefer something better than stock) please
let me know off list.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
with asthma... :\
P.S. I took my car in to have satan's helpers tell me
why my stock boost
gauge only shows 7psi (i wanted them to do it under the
warranty). They told
me it's a faulty gauge...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:16:38
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please Help: Finally got car to start, but still not right
If
you have a turbo car, it could be your Fuel Pressure Control Valve
is
bad. It is the cylinoid on the far left of the bank of cylinoids on
the
fire wall. The measured coil resistance for it should be between 36
and 46
ohms. It should be open normally (ie if you blow in one end, air
should
come out the other). When you apply battery voltage it will
close.
If that is good and you can get a fuel pressure gauge, I would
check your
fuel pressure coming out of the fuel pressure regulator.
This might be
tough since the fuel pressure regulator bolts directly to the
rear fuel
rail.
Good luck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:25:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
What is a "trace"?
A small coating of
oil is normal.
On Thu, 23 May 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> I
found traces of oil in the left input to the y-pipe, but not the right.
>
I'm assuming that one of my turbos is blown. Which one feeds in on the
left?
>
> This of course had to happen just as I ordered my Blitz
i-D...
>
> Since I now have been forced into the market fer new
turbos (or used ones),
> if anyone has a set they'd like to get rid off
(not necessarily stockers -
> I'd even prefer something better than stock)
please let me know off list.
>
>
Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4 with asthma... :\
>
> P.S. I took my
car in to have satan's helpers tell me why my stock boost
> gauge only
shows 7psi (i wanted them to do it under the warranty). They told
> me
it's a faulty gauge...
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:23:12
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
Noticebly more in one side than the
other...
Both were oily to the touch but the left had a puddle basically.
More like
an oily trail on the bottom of it.
What's a small
coating?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Cc:
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, May
23, 2002 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
> What is a
"trace"?
>
> A small coating of oil is normal.
>
> On
Thu, 23 May 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> > I found traces of oil
in the left input to the y-pipe, but not the
right.
> > I'm assuming
that one of my turbos is blown. Which one feeds in on the
left?
>
>
> > This of course had to happen just as I ordered my Blitz
i-D...
> >
> > Since I now have been forced into the market
fer new turbos (or used
ones),
> > if anyone has a set they'd like
to get rid off (not necessarily
stockers -
> > I'd even prefer
something better than stock) please let me know off
list.
>
>
> > Thanks,
> >
>
> Alex.
> >
>
> '95 VR4 with asthma... :\
> >
> > P.S. I took my car in
to have satan's helpers tell me why my stock boost
> > gauge only shows
7psi (i wanted them to do it under the warranty). They
told
> > me
it's a faulty gauge...
> >
> ---
> Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:35:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
Ahh..ok..a small puddle is more than
slight.
On Thu, 23 May 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> Noticebly
more in one side than the other...
> Both were oily to the touch but the
left had a puddle basically. More like
> an oily trail on the bottom of
it.
>
> What's a small coating?
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:37:14
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Oil in Y-pipe
IMO the importance of oil-in-IC's and Y-pipe etc
is overestimated.
I think I have always had some oil in my intake pipes, for
as far back (1993
new car) as I can remember. Higher boost wears thrust
bearings
faster...shafts can get a little looser, so oil drips into
compressor air
going to intercoolers/manifold, as well as out exhaust
some.
Also, just before the rear and front turbos there is a port for the
PCV
system which can introduce some oil into intake tract. More blowby
from
poor ring seal and/or forged pistons (run a little loower than stock
cast)
means some oil.
I sure set all my records with oil coating, ran
every Road America, Grattan
roadcourse race, have gone year after year with
some oil coating intake
tract. Oh well. IF car is smoking,
excessive, turbo broken then change it.
I sure never cleaned out my intake
tract, because it would just get
re-coated on one trip around the block. It's
Self-Cleaning ;)
JT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko"
<
apedenko@earthlink.net>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, May
23, 2002 11:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oil in Y-pipe
> I found traces
of oil in the left input to the y-pipe, but not the right.
> I'm assuming
that one of my turbos is blown. Which one feeds in on
the
left?
>
> This of course had to happen just as I ordered my
Blitz i-D...
>
> Since I now have been forced into the market fer
new turbos (or used
ones),
> if anyone has a set they'd like to get rid
off (not necessarily stockers -
> I'd even prefer something better than
stock) please let me know off list.
>
>
Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4 with asthma... :\
>
> P.S. I took my
car in to have satan's helpers tell me why my stock boost
> gauge only
shows 7psi (i wanted them to do it under the warranty). They
told
> me
it's a faulty gauge...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:47:04
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Oil in Y-pipe
Okay, let me re-word
this...
The car isn't smoking, but there is some oil in the y-pipe, and
only one
side of it. How do I tell if it's a broken turbo? Would a broken
turbo not
spool up as much, i.e. only get me up to ~7
psi?
Thanks,
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:55:08
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Oil in Y-pipe
I think what Jack was saying is --- if it ain't
broke don't fix it ---
Some oil is normal, how much is too much --- when it
start to
affect performance. Fouling plugs, burning oil, or worse. When
it fails it won't cost any more to repair. It's unlikely that any parts
will get into the intake and you can rebuild the turbo when it
dies.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:13:50
-0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP!!! air intake problem!
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
> Unhooking
the battery (or removing the correct fuse (I forget what it is
labeled -
interior lighting?)) will reset anything that the ECU has learned
to this
point back to the factory defaults, so the car will spend a little
more time
relearning from scratch instead of making smaller adjustments (if
even that
is necessary) to the prelearned data.
> Just my opinion - you can go
either way with no real consequences.
-
------------------------->
Well said. Matt is correct.
Learn mode is *always* active. But anytime
computers are involved, I'm
one of those types who like to "reboot the
machine" every once in a while,
just to make sure all the systems are being
evaluated correctly.
:-) It's probably unnecessary, but it can't
hurt.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:32:43
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
> Just something to keep in mind Jeff, Matt from
Dynamic has run a 10.95 @
22
> PSI (no happy gas @ 3600FT
Wasn't
that a "corrected " time and not a "real " time?
Steve
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:02:50
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Hesitation problem
Eric / team-
I agree with doug with the bad
gas. Condensation can form in the tank and
lines. Water obviously doesn't
burn and causes hesitation. To speed up the
process, buy some good gas like
Chevron. Put a pint or so of gasoline water
remover ($3-$5 at your local auto
parts store) in there. Maybe consider a
fuel injector cleaner ($2-$7) tank
additive as well. No luck? It could just
be your injectors are dirty. That
could get more expensive.
You may consider cleaning your throttle body
and doing an take hosing leak
check by building the leak tester shown on
www.vfaq.com since those are
cheap and easy to
do. If you're having trouble finding the location of the
leak tester page,
feel free to e-mail me back.
Good luck.
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmDoug
wrote:
I have had a problem similar to yours. It turned out to be a
bad tank of
gas. About 3 tanks of good gas later, the problem was gone
and never came
back. Hope this helps.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Eric C. Wrote:
Ok 92 VR4, idles fine but won't run at a
constant speed fine, such as 60
MPH in 5th. It cuts out every so often, not
so much that the tach moves, but
you can feel it.
<cut - see
org.>
When accelerating it doesn't hesitate, but I can't accelerate
for ever ;-).
Tried different gears at the same speed, as well as
different speeds to see
if that would change the effect. There is a slight
change, it is worse at
lower speeds/RPMs but does it at any
speed/RPM.
Tested the acceleration position sensor
<cut - see
org.>
No check engine lights
<cut - see
org.>
Thanks,
Eric C. 92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 00:39:54
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DYNO #'s
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper"
<
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>
> Just something to keep in mind Jeff, Matt from Dynamic has run a 10.95
@
22 PSI (no happy gas @ 3600FT
> Wasn't that a "corrected " time and
not a "real " time?
> Steve
-
-------------------------------->
All the times posted on our Team3S
"Fastest 3S" page are backed up with
timeslips, and we don't accept corrected
times, only real times. In
December, Matt ran a 10.96 without NOS, and
a 10.89 with NOS, at 3600 ft.,
both uncorrected.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-fastest.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:07:15
-0400
From: "Anthony & Susan" <
jetbike@worldlynx.net>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Listeners,
I purchased a 93 Stealth R/T TT with
80,000 miles. I ran the VIN.#, had it
checked out by 2 mechanics all said the
car is in great condition. 6 days
after I had the car the Transmission broke.
Needless to say I'm not
impressed. After the fact I've been talking to
Stealth owners and all say
the trans. are weak. Just last night a gent said
he replaced 2 trans. and
the new one is on the way out. I guess my question
is if you guy's are
running that much HP how are you not breaking the
transmissions? My car is
stock except for the K&N cone filter. 60000
maintenance was done. I'm now
waiting on a trans. from Kormex. What is the
list running? Any help to
restore my faith in this car would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Anthony
93 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
66
Sunbeam Tiger
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Friday, May
24, 2002 3:40 AM
To: Steve Cooper;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve
Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>
> Just something to keep in mind Jeff, Matt from Dynamic has run a 10.95
@
22 PSI (no happy gas @ 3600FT
> Wasn't that a "corrected " time and
not a "real " time?
> Steve
-
-------------------------------->
All the times posted on our Team3S
"Fastest 3S" page are backed up with
timeslips, and we don't accept corrected
times, only real times. In
December, Matt ran a 10.96 without NOS, and
a 10.89 with NOS, at 3600 ft.,
both uncorrected.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-fastest.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#849
***************************************