Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May
3 2002 Volume 01 : Number
830
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 02 May 2002 19:04:46 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint/clear coat
For the 1991-1993 models only, the
information you need is in the 1991 Stealth
Import Service Manual - Body
Repair. A digital version (PDF file) is available
on the Manuals on CD by
member Vinny Singh. The hardcopy version is available
for $12 from
800-890-4038 (M-F 8a-8p EST). Chapter 6 says only the pearl-tone
colors have
a clear coat. 1991 pearl-tone colors include what the manual
calls "Galaxy
White" (color code W75) and "Kutani Red" (color code R25). I
don't know if
the 1992 VR4 model included a green pearl tone or not. But it
should be
obvious by looking at the paint in sunlight if it has the mica
particles in
it that distinquish the pearl tone paints.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Labonte" <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 02, 2002 11:22 AM
Subject: Team3S: Paint/clear
coat
<snip> One thing I can't seem to figure out is if it has a
clear
coat or not. Any idea how I can find this out?
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 15:22:42
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
Matt,
How about doing a
dual-fuel conversion (switching between propane and
gasoline at the flip of a
button). For this, we will need to pull out
the factory gas tank and
replace it with a 10 gallon custom made fuel
cell, as well as a 10 gal custom
made propane tank.
The above setup will allow higher boost/HP when
running on 100% propane,
and we will have no worries that we will run out of
gas because we can
fill up anywhere.
Also, no worries about driving
around with a bomb either, because
everything will be where the original fuel
tank used to be.
- -MIHAI-
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 22:20:20
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
>why not use 100%
propane?
>...because most of us use our cars as daily drivers as
well. Its a
little >tougher to find a gas station that will fill up
a pure-propane
vehicle.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 16:22:20
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: ABS system removal
GUys-
ABS is intended to Prevent
lockup, which is generally bad in braking. If you
look in back of Car and
Driver you will se that every car that has ABS stops
in a shorter
distance. Most american drivers CANT drive for there lives, but
i
doubt that any of us on the list are included. I personally have only
needed
ABS perhaps 2 or 3 times in 2 years with the car, but its there if u
need it
to stop. The computer pumps the brakes far faster then any human
could as it
is. Now the $$ needed to fix ABS is alot, but thats not the point
im trying
to make. If its still working then id leave it.
Think of it this way. A
VR-4 has AWD. Unless your in the rain or launching
the car, then its is not
needed. But its there if u need it, whenever that
may be-same with
ABS
mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 16:29:59
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
> How about
doing a dual-fuel conversion (switching between propane and
> gasoline at
the flip of a button). For this, we will need to pull out
> the
factory gas tank and replace it with a 10 gallon custom made fuel
> cell,
as well as a 10 gal custom made propane tank.
You could do anything you
want, but running 100% propane all the time might
be more of a project than
using it as a high-boost injection setup. Running
it as the primary
fuel might require some sort of remapping to the ecu,
maybe different types
of fuel injectors (or larger/smaller), different fuel
feed setup, etc.
Does propane affect O2 sensor readings at all, or poison
them like leaded
fuel does? Do you inject it as a liquid or a gas? I don't
have
answers to any of those questions, but that's at least a start of some
things
you'd want answered.
I'm a fan of simplicity rather than
complexity. For me, the full-propane
setup or trying to switch from one
fuel to another is more complex with more
things to go wrong. Not
something I'm at all interested in doing to my car,
so I'm going to step away
from the propane discussion.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 17:40:14
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Propane fill-up stations
Everyone,
Here is where you can get a
list of propane fill-up stations in your
area:
http://afdcmap.nrel.gov/locator/LocatePane.asp
I called 2 places and got $2.43/gal and $3.00/gal.
Ouch! Propane is
supposed to be cheaper than regular gasoline
though. Maybe they're
gouging, so I'm sure a quick call to the State
Attorney General's office
may settle that issue, if it's an issue.
Big
fleets are saving money by running their cars on propane, so I don't
see why
we can't too. They are not doing it for the environment
for
sure.
[Mihai Raicu]
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 18:12:13
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
Any questions on
the propane conversion should be answered shortly - my
neighbor and I will be
putting together and posting a FAQ on my website
regarding this topic.
I would direct these type of questions to his website
http://www.fireemup.com as it is what they do
on a day to day basis.
Since web-work is my world, I am helping them
expand the content to include
these type of answers on their
site.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.netHow about
doing a dual-fuel conversion (switching between propane and
gasoline at the
flip of a button). For this, we will need to pull out
the factory gas
tank and replace it with a 10 gallon custom made fuel
cell, as well as a 10
gal custom made propane tank.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 16:42:29
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: Help !
AC Problem
I need help or ideas with a AC problem on my 93 VR-4. Freon is
good,
checked all otheritems as listed but it still blows standard air. So
I
took it to an AC shop and they told me it was the AC control module
and
would cost $1200.00 to replace. I don't think so !!!!!! Does this
sound
true?
What else can I check ? Where is the control module located ?
Could it
be in the climate control temp sensorinstead of the control
module?
I am at a loss until I get a manual ( same problems as others, on
order
from dealer and now they say they can't get it anymore !) Tried
all
sources for manual on Web site but no good.
I will order the CD for
now.
Any help or ideas
??????????
Thank you ! John
Sheehan
93 VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 20:24:14
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: iridium plug gapping
I just got my iridium plugs today. I won't
be installing them 'till i get
back to my car in texas and only after i take
it for this year's inpection
(don't want to do all these mods and then
fail it). The electrode on these
things looks is so small it looks like it
would probably break if i got a
gapping tool anywhere near it. Is there any
special way to gap these plugs
or is the electrode stronger than it looks and
will survive a standard
gapper? Also, the gapping chart that came with them
suggested .044-.042 for
mild mods. They are the Denso type(yes, i know some
of you said these don't
perform well but I had already ordered them, I'll
give them a try and see
what happens). I've read some of you gap these things
to .034. Which should
I do? The mods the car will have by the time I install
thes will be K&N
FIPK, boost controller set to about 14-14.5 psi, vitek
wires, borla
cat-back, atr downpipe,fidanza aluminum flywheel and ACT
Modified street
disc clutch. thanks
- -ROD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 17:35:58
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
iridium plug gapping
On Thu, May 02, 2002, Rodriguez, Elpidio <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
wrote:
[snip]
> I've read some of you gap these things to .034. Which
should
> I do? The mods the car will have by the time I install thes will
be K&N
> FIPK, boost controller set to about 14-14.5 psi, vitek wires,
borla
> cat-back, atr downpipe,fidanza aluminum flywheel and ACT Modified
street
> disc clutch. thanks
If you really want to gap the plugs to
0.032", then you are better off
returning your IK20 (they are supposed to be
pre-gapped to 0.044") and
ordering the IK22 (one range cooler and pre-gapped
to 0.032")
> -ROD
- --
*******************************************************************************
Every
Klingon hopes to die in the line of duty.
-- Worf, "The
Bonding", stardate
43198.7
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 22:15:51
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Quick little question
sorry to take up the bandwidth, but is
there a 1000q type of site for 3S?
Looking for some massive faq site that
will answer my every question!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 04:56:42
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: wrong plug heat range causes knock?
I have a '91 R/T tt with a
25k mile engine, 15G's, 550's, Walbro pump,
VPC/SAFC, etc.
I looked on
my cd manual for the instructions to change the knock sensor,
since I'm
hoping it might have been torqued down incorrectly when I had my
heads
replaced (recently) or the engine installed, and saw this under
the
knock-sensor section:
"When knocking occurs while driving under
high-load conditions, the
following problems are suspected in addition to the
detonation sensor
itself.
(1) Inappropriate ignition plug heat
range
(2) Inappropriate gasoline
(3) Incorrectly adjusted reference
ignition timing"
I've ruled out (2) because this happens regardless of
where I get my 93
octane at, and (3) because I had it checked.
How far
off does the heat range have to be to cause knock? Is this only if
you
go "hotter"? I currently have Denso Iridiums IK22's, which are 1
heat
range colder than stock, and am getting (on the pocketlogger) massive
(20+)
knock at anything over 9 psi unless I run super rich (1.0v +) past 5500
rpm,
and was thinking maybe this could be the problem? Or maybe this in
addition
to the sometimes problematic iridium plugs with our cars.
Do
you all think I should replace just the plugs with some coppers (BCPR6ES
?)
before I worry about replacing the knock sensor, or should I try to do
both
at once (I've never replaced plugs before myself)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 12:37:51
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wrong plug heat range causes knock?
The 1 range colder
Iridiums do normally help but more and more I hear that
even those are
causing problems.
Basically the Iridiums are only beneficial if used with
an amplifier. But
even then it seems that our engines do not like them after
a while.
Unfortunately the ultra-high rich condition also causes knock in
our cars.
I saw the same in my logs and for sure the sensor isn't the
problem (unless
it shows no knock when you bang on the engine at
idle).
The solution is using either coppers but change them more often or
stock
NGKs gapped to 0.032. When using an Accel Coil pack or the GM coils
from
Accel the gap can stay stock. Please note that these coils must be
custom
installed and need other plug wires too.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 04:56 03.05.2002
-0400, Bill vp wrote:
>I have a '91 R/T tt with a 25k mile engine, 15G's,
550's, Walbro pump,
>VPC/SAFC, etc.
>
>I looked on my cd
manual for the instructions to change the knock sensor,
>since I'm hoping
it might have been torqued down incorrectly when I had my
>heads replaced
(recently) or the engine installed, and saw this under the
>knock-sensor
section:
>
>"When knocking occurs while driving under high-load
conditions, the
>following problems are suspected in addition to the
detonation sensor
>itself.
>(1) Inappropriate ignition plug heat
range
>(2) Inappropriate gasoline
>(3) Incorrectly adjusted
reference ignition timing"
>
>I've ruled out (2) because this
happens regardless of where I get my 93
>octane at, and (3) because I had
it checked.
>
>How far off does the heat range have to be to cause
knock? Is this only if
>you go "hotter"? I currently have
Denso Iridiums IK22's, which are 1 heat
>range colder than stock, and am
getting (on the pocketlogger) massive (20+)
>knock at anything over 9 psi
unless I run super rich (1.0v +) past 5500 rpm,
>and was thinking maybe
this could be the problem? Or maybe this in addition
>to the
sometimes problematic iridium plugs with our cars.
>
>Do you all
think I should replace just the plugs with some coppers (BCPR6ES
>?)
before I worry about replacing the knock sensor, or should I try to
do
>both at once (I've never replaced plugs before
myself)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 04:32:00
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick little question (about FAQ)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
sorry to take up the bandwidth, but is there a 1000q type of site for
3S?
Looking for some massive faq site that will answer my every
question!
- ------------------------------------>
We'd love someone
to put one together for Team3S - are you volunteering?
:-) Just about
every question has already been answered on our list (to
some extent, at
least). Obviously, new questions come up every day. All
you have
to do to dig out answers is to use our Search Page. We have well
over
100 pages in our FAQ section, but they usually cover topics in some
detail...
There are very few "one-line" answers - there is more than one
"favorite
tire" or "favorite oil" opinion from our members. If you learn
how to
use the search filters, you'll be able to limit your results to the
type of
answers you're looking for. Over 1200 pages of our archives
are
referenced by the Search Engine. If you estimate an average of 10
questions
per page, it's easy to see that there are 10,000+ answers just on
our site.
That's a lot of FAQ!
www.Team3S.com/Search.htmMany
of the answers which have been contributed on the Team3S list also
contain
links to some of the excellent member sites- here are one-line
synopses of 3
of the best, all of whom have added much to our site:
- --Roger Gerl has
put together an highly technical site for performance
tuning, with dyno
results, turbo basics, comparisons, etc., at
www.rtec.ch- --Dave Black has a large site
with over 100 FAQ, with basic answers. A
number of additional topics
are covered in quite some detail, at
www.daveblack.net- --Jeff Lucius has
been an 'unofficial librarian' of the 3S world, gathering
an huge amount of
information from other sites and putting it in one place,
at:
www.stealth316.com.
We're putting
together a FAQ page listing dozens of our members' sites,
which will be up
shortly. In the meantime, if you read everything on the
Team3S site and
the 3 sites above, you'll be an expert. You and your car
will also be a
couple of years older. :-)
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 07:45:40
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wrong plug heat range causes knock?
so is the manual only
talking about hotter heat ranges causing knock, or
does going too far in any
direction (how much?) cause it?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Friday, May
03, 2002 6:38 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: wrong plug heat range causes knock?
The 1 range colder
Iridiums do normally help but more and more I hear that
even those are
causing problems.
At 04:56 03.05.2002 -0400, Bill vp wrote:
>I have
a '91 R/T tt with a 25k mile engine, 15G's, 550's, Walbro pump,
>VPC/SAFC,
etc.
>
>I looked on my cd manual for the instructions to change the
knock sensor,
>since I'm hoping it might have been torqued down
incorrectly when I had my
>heads replaced (recently) or the engine
installed, and saw this under the
>knock-sensor
section:
>
>"When knocking occurs while driving under high-load
conditions, the
>following problems are suspected in addition to the
detonation sensor
>itself.
>(1) Inappropriate ignition plug heat
range
>(2) Inappropriate gasoline
>(3) Incorrectly adjusted
reference ignition timing"
>
>How far off does the heat range have
to be to cause knock? Is this only if
>you go "hotter"? I
currently have Denso Iridiums IK22's, which are 1 heat
>range colder than
stock, and am getting (on the pocketlogger) massive (20+)
>knock at
anything over 9 psi unless I run super rich (1.0v +) past
5500
rpm,
>and was thinking maybe this could be the problem? Or
maybe this in
addition
>to the sometimes problematic iridium plugs with
our cars.
>
>Do you all think I should replace just the plugs with
some coppers (BCPR6ES
>?) before I worry about replacing the knock sensor,
or should I try to do
>both at once (I've never replaced plugs before
myself)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 14:54:45
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: pillar-pod
The pillar pods visually align with the A-pillar
itself so there is no change
in sightlines, at least with how I am
positioned in the driver's seat. One,
two, or three pods make no difference.
The dual pods are designed with enough separation between pods so that
both
gauges are easily scene in their entirety. However, the single pod that
I
placed "below" the dual sits a little closer to the middle pod and the
upper
left corner of the lower gauge is partially obscured. I also have one
of the
Lotek triple-pods. I have not installed it but the
"partial-concealment"
problem of the lowest gauge appears to be a little
worse with their design.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 01, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
pillar-pod
Jeff,
What does that pod arrangement do to your
sightlines? Does it add/increase
blindspots enough to cause much
trouble?
Dennis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 07:58:17
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Iridium or Platinum
Hi folks: I am about to the point where I need
to replace my plugs. I was
looking through the archives and it looks like the
consensus is NGK. NGK
just brought out a new iridium plug which is about half
the price of
platinums. Anyone know anything about the new NGK
iridiums?
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 14:19:16
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: iridium plug gapping
I gapped my Iridium plugs. But is did
not use the gapping tool as a
screwdriver or as a wedge. I carefully bent the
side electrode by lightly
tapping on it and CHECKING (not gapping) the new
gap with the gapping too.
If you overbend the side electrode, just use small
pliers to bend it back.
But getting colder plugs with the correct gap is
your best choice. You can
try selling your IK20 if the place where you bought
them won't agree to
exchange them.
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------
> I've read some of
you gap these things to .034. Which should
> I do? The mods the car will
have by the time I install thes will be K&N
> FIPK, boost controller
set to about 14-14.5 psi, vitek wires, borla
> cat-back, atr
downpipe,fidanza aluminum flywheel and ACT Modified street
> disc clutch.
thanks
If you really want to gap the plugs to 0.032", then you are better
off
returning your IK20 (they are supposed to be pre-gapped to 0.044")
and
ordering the IK22 (one range cooler and pre-gapped to
0.032")
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 19:19:59
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dis 4 HO
Was curious about this unit... I have seen it
advertised, and MSD
claims it works on the 3000GT (all but SOHC
models). The HO version has
170 millijoules worth of spark energy, etc.
etc. What I can't figure
out is why does no one use this unit?
Its only $330 from Jegs and
Summit...
Any ideas???
-
-Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#830
***************************************