Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 22
2002 Volume 01 : Number
819
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:54:25 -0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
Man, I can't fit
an extension pipe in there on the 3/4" open-end wrench
or fit a
ratchet/socket in there to get the bottom fuel filter eye-bolt
loose on my
1994 3000gt, there just isn't enough room and you can't get
to it from
under the car. Battery, battery plate, window washer
reservoir and
window-washer reservoir bracket are removed. I used
penetrating fluid
but bolt doesn't look rusted anyways and it is way
over 22ft-lbs
tight. I used a socket/ratchet on the top one and a LOT
of force
and it finally popped. Wonder what the labor is to do one
of
these things. Geez...... Any ideas
besides working out for a
couple of months?
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:59:54
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
Remove the filter
and put it in a vise.
Attach the "U" pipe to the new filter while in the vise
also.
At 03:54 PM 4/21/02 -0500, RJM wrote:
>Man, I can't fit an
extension pipe in there on the 3/4" open-end wrench
>or fit a
ratchet/socket in there to get the bottom fuel filter eye-bolt
>loose on
my 1994 3000gt, there just isn't enough room and you can't get
>to
it from under the car. Battery, battery plate, window
washer
>reservoir and window-washer reservoir bracket are removed. I
used
>penetrating fluid but bolt doesn't look rusted anyways and it is
way
>over 22ft-lbs tight. I used a socket/ratchet on the top
one and a LOT
>of force and it finally popped. Wonder what the
labor is to do one of
>these things.
Geez...... Any ideas besides working out for a
>couple
of months? Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:29:49
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
Good afternoon.
Has anyone
disconnected the door ajar buzzer/ beeper/ tone? I'm tired of
hearing it and
would like to silence it.
I tried the archives without success. I'd like to
know if anyone has done
this and if there are any tips or recommendations
against doing this.
If anyone can tell me how to get to it and how best to
silence it, I would
appreciate it.
Thank you,
Zach Sauerman
'94
Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:42:56
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
Magnecor
8.5mm ~3 years old and 8,000 miles
#1 ~16" 8.69 kOhms ~6.5 kOhms/ft ~21.3
Ohms/mm
#3 ~12" 6.69 kOhms ~6.7 kOhms/ft ~22.0 Ohms/mm
#5 ~8" 4.74
kOhms ~7.1 kOhms/ft ~23.3 Ohms/mm
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Please act :
Ignition wire resistance measuring
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:17:27
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:52:17
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
Man I feel
stupid, thanks Wayne, I figured it out by looking in the manual,
didn't see
the fuel fitting pipe connector that would free the fuel filter
from the
car. Geez, you wouldn't know I have a Geophysics degree,
thanks
MUCH for your help. The eye bolt popped right off while I
held the vice
down with my foot (I don't have the vice bolted in anywhere
yet).
Bob
Wayne wrote:
> Remove the filter and put it in a
vise.
> Attach the "U" pipe to the new filter while in the vise
also.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:57:05
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
Zack:
It's a blue connector behind
the radio. Simply unplug it. Closest to
the drivers side, up
towards the top of that area, IIRC.
Best,
SJ
On Sun,
21 Apr 2002 15:29:49 -0600 "Zach Sauerman"
<
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
writes:
> Good afternoon.
> Has anyone disconnected the door ajar
buzzer/ beeper/ tone? I'm
> tired of
> hearing it and would like
to silence it.
> I tried the archives without success. I'd like to know if
anyone has
> done
> this and if there are any tips or
recommendations against doing
> this.
> If anyone can tell me how
to get to it and how best to silence it, I
> would
> appreciate
it.
> Thank you,
> Zach Sauerman
> '94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:47:32
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
You need to
remove the filter with the pipe attached. There is a connection
at the
other end of the "U" pipe. The large end(19mm I believe) is fixed
and
won't turn. The other is a 14mm and I'd recommend using a flare nut
wrench on that one. Hold the 19mm wrench(keep from twisting) and
loosen the
14mm wrench. Once removed, you can hold the filter with a
thin wrench and
loosen the eye bolt. You might want to replace the
copper washers to be
sure that you don't get any leaks.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
>Date: Sun, 21 Apr
2002 15:54:25 -0500
>
>Man, I can't fit an extension pipe in there
on the 3/4" open-end wrench
>or fit a ratchet/socket in there to get the
bottom fuel filter eye-bolt
>loose on my 1994 3000gt, there just
isn't enough room and you can't get
>to it from under the car.
Battery, battery plate, window washer
>reservoir and window-washer
reservoir bracket are removed. I used
>penetrating fluid but bolt
doesn't look rusted anyways and it is way
>over 22ft-lbs
tight. I used a socket/ratchet on the top one and a LOT
>of
force and it finally popped. Wonder what the labor is to do one
of
>these things. Geez...... Any ideas
besides working out for a
>couple of months?
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:18:34
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
definitly cant stand that chime. . ive
looked for a fuse but there isnt a
specific one for it. . if any1 has any
ideas it would be appreciated.
- -mike
97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:44:47
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: turbo leak
How much of a oil leak in the turbos would it take to
cause smoke out the
exhaust? I don't get any smoke until I put a load on the
turbos. There is a
small residue around the rear rubber seal on the back
turbo and in the IC
tube from the rear turbo. Turbos seem to spool up okay
with power.
Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:49:49
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: O2 Sensors
I need to replace 'em. Where can I get them and
do I have any choices?
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91
R/T TT(3SI#0499)
2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 23:51:46
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: best spark plugs for 1997 VR-4
I know this will spark (no pun
intended) a big discussion, but I am looking for suggestions on replacing my
spark plugs on my 1997
VR-4.
I have some minor mods, hope to add more
later, and have used Splitfire plugs on my VR-4 and the DOHC NA that I had
previously and
the plugs were fantastic.
But, now that it is time to
change my plugs, I have some minor mods to my VR-4 and was wondering what plugs
would offer the best
performance ?
More info on my car can be found
here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htmThanks
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 04:40:18
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Boost contol solenoid (kinda long)
I think I have the same problem as was
just being
discussed:
On the highway, in traffic - I started noticing
that
the few chances I got to floor it, the _stock_ boost
gauge was
showing around 7psi. I even noticed a
pattern. If I spend some time just
crawling along and
then floor it, it goes to 7. If I downshift and get it
to higher RPMs, it might crawl up higher, but not much.
After a few
times of WOT, it gets to the 7, slows down
and then gets by it and jumps all
the way to 14 (i know
it's 12, but mine has always shown 14) and has no
problems getting there afterwards. If after that I
spend some time
standing still, or at least at low
boost, the cycle repeats
Okay - so
I'm thinking it's got to be something with
the boost control - because of
that magical 7. The car
has no problem getting to it, and that's where the
waste gates start to kick in. But the question is what
part of the
control circuit is dying - is it the ECU,
the solenoid itself or the wiring
that actuates it?
It's almost as if the solenoid itself is getting stuck
and then fights through.
But is that possible? A solenoid is just a
metal core
inside an inductor, right?
Also - if it is just the
solenoid dying, is this a good
time to put in a boost controller? Does an
aftermarket
one replace the solenoid or does it splice itself in
alongside? Does anyone know what the solenoid costs?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
P.S. For those that remember my frantic
pleas for help,
I made it to Chicago just fine. I'm starting to think
its not the bearing after all, but I'll post that in
another
email.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 04:48:41
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Brake clearances
Okay - I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my
car - if it's the wheel bearing or the caliper.
This weekend (before
I had to drive to chicago), the
front driver side wheel start making a high
pitched
noise, sort of like a belt noise. After the drive to
chicago the
noise went away. I thought it was a wheel
bearing, but it was
uncharacteristic of a bearing noise
because it didn't change from turning,
or from
different speeds.
I'm starting to think it's the brake pads
and hence my
question. With the brakes _not_ engaged, how much
clearance
should there be between the pad and the disc?
On mine, I couldn't fit a
piece of paper in between.
This makes me think that (whether it should be
like
this or not) my brake pads are always in contact with
the rotor.
That would explain why the noise went away -
the pad wore down some more,
past the part that was
making the noise. That would also explain why my car
vibrates at speed - my rotors are really warped and if
i'm driving with
my brakes always on, at higher speeds
it would show up as the same type of
vibration as when
I brake.
Is this normal? Or should there be a
noticeable
difference? If there should be a larger clearance,
what's at
fault?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 Vr4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 22:17:49
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
It's actually really easy. Just
pull out the button thing/sensor and
disconnect it. It had been done to
mine when I bought it. I actually
reconnected it so the alarm would
work and the interior lights would
turn on, etc.
- -Brad
'97
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Sunday, April
21, 2002 4:19 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
definitly cant stand that chime. .
ive looked for a fuse but there isnt
a
specific one for it. . if any1 has
any ideas it would be appreciated.
- -mike
97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 01:01:26
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S:
Silence the door buzzer
> It's actually really easy. Just pull
out the button thing/sensor and
> disconnect it. It had been done to
mine when I bought it. I actually
> reconnected it so the alarm
would work and the interior lights would
> turn on, etc.
>
>
-Brad
> '97 VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> definitly cant stand that chime. . ive looked for a fuse but there
isnt
> a
> specific one for it. . if any1 has any ideas it would be
appreciated.
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
That's the
problem with pulling the fuse to kill the buzzer -
there are also other items
(like the interior lights) on the
same fuse. The main circuits are
printed on the fuse box cover,
along with the fuse rating in amps.
- - tds
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 23:01:41
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Car wont start help needed
martin/team3s-
I'm glad to help,
especially since you all helped me get my baby running. I have other cars, but
this is the only one I really like. Now if I wasn't so damn busy, I'd throw my
newly gained knowledge into the FAQ pages. I definetely will one of these
days.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
stock
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm*****************
ON:
Sunday,
April 21, 2002 7:44 AM
Jeff wrote:
Yippee my car is running
again.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my plea.
Especially Jeff Lucius
and Riyan who pointed me in the right direction.
It turned out to be the fuel
pump relay under the air box.
<cut>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 02:07:38
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
Quote:
>I actually
reconnected it so the alarm would work and >the interior lights
would turn
on, etc.
Here's what I did. I wrapped it up with electrical tape
until I could
barely here it. It worked out well.
Dan
Johnson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 03:37:35
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Admin Note (OT): Team3S logo labels sold illegally on 3Si
'board'.
About 1/3 of Team3S members are also members of 3Si. As
many of you might
be aware, there is a message board on the 3Si
website. It has come to our
attention that someone (who is not even a
Team3S member) has been posting to
that board claiming that Team3S logo
labels are for sale!?! Please be
advised that selling anything with our
logo on it without permission is
illegal. We are taking care of this
issue, but in the meantime, here are a
few facts "for the UNaware" among
us:
1) Team3S is NOT associated with the 3Si website in any way
other than
through a long-term friendship with the site's owner.
Although the Team3S
Admins (and some of our long-time members) are among the
"founding fathers"
of the group we created in 1997/1998 called "3000GT /
Stealth
International", Team3S and 3Si.org are separate entities that
developed from
those origins.
2) The Team3S and 3Si logos were
designed by Bob Forrest, who kept them
similar for cohesiveness when we dealt
with vendors, Chrysler, Mitsubishi,
etc. As has been the case since the
logo was first published in 1995,
whenever that logo appears on a web page it
is supposed to carry the
following copyright notice,
"Copyright 1995-2002,
Bob Forrest. All Rights Reserved."
3) FYI, the similar "S3"
logo {numbered} membership label used by 3Si was
designed by Todd Shelton,
and the {script} "3Si" logo used by 3Si was
designed by "Xannieria"
(Wei-Lik). The {Chrome Letters} 3Si logo was
designed by Bob Forrest,
and is similarly copyrighted (1998). Logos are
"intellectual property",
authored and owned by the designers. Usage is by
permission only, which
must be obtained in writing from the respective
authors of the
logos.
4) The Team3S logo (and both 3Si logos) which were designed
by Bob Forrest
may be used by anyone on their website *as long as* they carry
the proper
copyright notice, as above, and providing that they are not
resized,
renamed, or changed in any way. The Team3S and 3Si logos may
NOT be used to
make a product for sale without expressed written permission
from the
copyright holder. EVER.
- -:-
Since this is
off-topic, please keep replies to the Admins private and off
the list.
Now back to your regularly scheduled Q & A...
The Admins,
Team3S
www.Team3S.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:31:05
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: engine dress up
the PCV valve is the part that screws into
the back side of the front bank
valve cover. The PCV hose connects onto
the PCV valve and goes back to the
intake manifold plenum.
>
If the PCV hose is just a rigid hose/tube then where IS the PCV check
>
valve? I feel my PCV hose is clogged.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:40:07
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Secret to removing fuel filter bottom eye-bolt?
- and you are
guaranteed to get several skinned knuckles in
the
process!
> I used a socket/ratchet on the top
one and a LOT
> of force and it finally popped.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:43:20
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
Yep. Once Roger said the check valve
portion was inside then I knew
where to look. Mine will get replaced
very soon. I'll check the hose
but think it is going to be just
fine.
Thanks.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002
09:31
the PCV valve is the part that screws into the back side of
the front
bank
valve cover. The PCV hose connects onto the PCV valve
and goes back to
the
intake manifold plenum.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:47:45
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Silence the door buzzer
It's been awhile so I 'think' the buzzer is
behind the radio --- all I did
was disconnect the damn buzzer. Everything
works except the noisy
part.
I also disabled the clutch interlock ----
it must be something Nader came
up with --- I've never had much trouble
remembering to put the car in
neutral before starting it. Now if I just had
the ambition to tackle the
almost obscenely stupid button you have to push to
remove the key.
If anyone knows the reason behind that idiotic idea please
let me know,
In all my years of driving I've never had the key fall out ---
even when the
car was on it's
side.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, April
21, 2002 10:17 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
>
It's actually really easy. Just pull out the button thing/sensor
and
> disconnect it. It had been done to mine when I bought
it. I actually
> reconnected it so the alarm would work and the
interior lights would
> turn on, etc.
>
> -Brad
>
'97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:49:38
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake clearances
If it's the brakes causing the noise, simply pressing
the pedal
will cause the noise to vary or go
away.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
apedenko@attbi.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, April
21, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brake clearances
> Okay - I'm
trying to figure out what's wrong with my
> car - if it's the wheel
bearing or the caliper.
>
> This weekend (before I had to drive to
chicago), the
> front driver side wheel start making a high pitched
> noise, sort of like a belt noise. After the drive to
> chicago
the noise went away. I thought it was a wheel
> bearing, but it was
uncharacteristic of a bearing noise
> because it didn't change from
turning, or from
> different speeds.
>
> I'm starting to
think it's the brake pads and hence my
> question. With the brakes _not_
engaged, how much
> clearance should there be between the pad and the
disc?
>
> On mine, I couldn't fit a piece of paper in between.
> This makes me think that (whether it should be like
> this or
not) my brake pads are always in contact with
> the rotor. That would
explain why the noise went away -
> the pad wore down some more, past the
part that was
> making the noise. That would also explain why my car
> vibrates at speed - my rotors are really warped and if
> i'm
driving with my brakes always on, at higher speeds
> it would show up as
the same type of vibration as when
> I brake.
>
> Is this
normal? Or should there be a noticeable
> difference? If there should be
a larger clearance,
> what's at fault?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 Vr4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:59:56
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
A long time ago it was mentioned that a
certain driver rarely has flying
monkeys inside his car so his chance of a
key being pulled from the
ignition is slim to none. I have a second gen
so I don't have that
ignition button key release function. I don't like
it either. I don't
wanna open the can of worms again but it is in the
archives. I think it
was someone who had a busted ignition lock and
nobody wanted to replace
it for anything under $200 until he found a
locksmith who picked it and
said, $20 please. Something like
that. But the little button jammed
and he could not get a key in or out
and left it in the ignition but
with a second key locked the
door.
What's this about putting the car in neutral before starting it,
Jim?
- --Flash
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 10:48
It's been awhile so I
'think' the buzzer is behind the radio --- all I
did
was disconnect the
damn buzzer. Everything works except the noisy
part.
I also disabled
the clutch interlock ---- it must be something Nader
came
up with --- I've
never had much trouble remembering to put the car in
neutral before starting
it. Now if I just had the ambition to tackle the
almost obscenely stupid
button you have to push to remove the key.
If anyone knows the reason behind
that idiotic idea please let me know,
In all my years of driving I've never
had the key fall out --- even when
the
car was on it's
side.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:16:52
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Silence the door buzzer
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
What's this about putting the car in neutral before starting it, Jim?
>
> --Flash
The clutch interlock requires that you depress the
clutch to start
the car --- This was designed is as a result of a study done
by the
government that determined that the people of the United
States
were a bunch if incompetent morons who weren't smart enough
to
start a car without killing someone. Nowadays it's not sufficent
to have the
car in park before starting you have to have your foot
on the brake before
you can shift.
Or as the rabbit said "what a bunch of
maroons".
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:22:31
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
Lets not take this discussion
there......... Only in America does this
extreme level of
"concern for the safety of the general public" occur.
Now onto the tech
part of my email, could I simply remove the drivers side
ECU access panel to
find the buzzer? If so what does the thing look like
(don't really want
to cut the wrong wires) it would really ruin my day.
Thanks
Russ
F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:29:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Clutch interlock (was: RE: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer)
I do know
that I have to push the clutch in to start the car. Even if
it is in
neutral. I don't mind. Keeps a young kid from starting the
car
just by turning the key. I don't have an automatic so I don't have
to
put it in park first. It has also been ingrained in my head
from
driving manual cars since I was 16 and you always put in the clutch
and
brake. Even on my wife's New Beetle which is an automatic I push
the
brake down to start the car even though it is in Park. Habit.
I don't
mind it though. Safer than the alternative of forgetting the
car is in
gear and jumping forward into a nice Jaguar.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 11:17
>
What's this about putting the car in neutral before starting it, Jim?
The
clutch interlock requires that you depress the clutch to start
the car ---
This was designed is as a result of a study done by the
government that
determined that the people of the United States
were a bunch if incompetent
morons who weren't smart enough
to start a car without killing someone.
Nowadays it's not sufficent
to have the car in park before starting you have
to have your foot
on the brake before you can
shift.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:43:36
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions 1999 base model
I just looked at the picture. The '99 has a
moonroof and chrome rims. Are
you sure that has an SOHC engine? It might be
an SL with a DOHC. Unless I'm
mistaken and they made SL's with SOHC's. I'm
pretty sure the base models
didn't have a moonroof and chrome rims.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Questions 1999 base
model
> Exactly. No matter how good the car looks, the base model is
still a very
> under powered car. The base model carries the same amount
of weight as the
> SL. The VR4 is a bit heavier due to the all wheel
drive.
>
> Look for a SL or a VR4. You will be much happier with the
performance.
>
> Regards,
> --
> Matt Costanza
>
Austin, Tx USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Philip V.
Glazatov <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Sunday,
April 21, 2002 12:20 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Questions 1999 base
model
>
> > The only attractive thing about this car is that now
it is only 3 years
> > old. But in two years it will be just another 5+
year old car with an
> > underpowered engine. I'd get an earlier year
low mileage V6 for less
> money.
> > It will last longer, hold
value better, be easier to sell, and more
> > pleasurable to
drive.
> >
> > Philip
> >
> > At 00:26
4/21/2002, cody wrote:
> > >Honestly, pretty pathetic when compared
to most other 3/S... 161 HP...
> > >SOHC's were in 97-99 base
model 3000's... (not trying t o put down the
> > >SOHC guys,
its just a fact...)
> > >
> > >-Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:43:23
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Brake clearances
The noise went away after my drive to chicago
(~260mi)
Do the wear indicators in the pads start off
intermittent?
By that I mean are there several layers
of the wear indicators, so that it
goes on, goes off,
goes on, etc.
Also, what are the specs for the
brake clearances? I
find it hard to believe that the pads are always in
contact with the rotors by design.
Thanks,
Alex.
> If it's the brakes causing the noise, simply pressing the
pedal
> will cause the noise to vary or go away.
>
> Jim Berry
>
========================================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:50:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake clearances
Wear indicators arent in grades, if the
rotor has a few thou of warp, then
it'll be hit & miss with the
indicator.
And no..theyre not really in contact, but theyre only BARELY
out of it by
design.
On Mon, 22 Apr 2002
apedenko@attbi.com wrote:
> The
noise went away after my drive to chicago (~260mi)
>
> Do the wear
indicators in the pads start off
> intermittent? By that I mean are there
several layers
> of the wear indicators, so that it goes on, goes off,
> goes on, etc.
>
> Also, what are the specs for the brake
clearances? I
> find it hard to believe that the pads are always in
> contact with the rotors by design.
>
> Thanks,
>
Alex.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:47:52
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake clearances
The pads ~are~ always in close contact with the
rotor... They simply
"fly" over the surface at speed... The Wear
indicator is a metal tab
protruding from the edge of the pad... once worn to
a certain level, it
contacts the rotor under, at first, heavy braking, then
less and less
effort is needed, and eventually it is in contact with the
rotor all the
time...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
apedenko@attbi.comSent: Monday, April
22, 2002 11:43 AM
To: fastmax
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Brake clearances
The noise went away after my drive to chicago
(~260mi)
Do the wear indicators in the pads start off
intermittent?
By that I mean are there several layers
of the wear indicators, so that it
goes on, goes off,
goes on, etc.
Also, what are the specs for the
brake clearances? I
find it hard to believe that the pads are always in
contact with the rotors by design.
Thanks,
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:48:09
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dash speakers, brake bleeding...
Ever since I got my VR-4, it
seemed that the dash speakers were doing little
if anything. It also seemed
that the door speakers were kinda whimpy too.
Yesterday, I got around to
investigating and sure enough, there was no sound
coming from the dash 2.75"
speakers. I hooked up a Jensen 1/2" dome tweeter
and viola! hi-frequency
sound came forth! These little things were like $29
at Wal-Mart. They have a
crossover built-in and are rating to 100 watts.
I thought I remembered
Erik or someone showing how they put some 1" tweeters
into the grill from the
original dash speakers but couldn't find the URL. I
was in the mood for some
custom work and proceeded to scribe out the
circular pattern onto a piece of
plastic that was formerly a 5.25" floppy
disc case. The color and the texture
of this plastic is remarkably similar
to the color and texture of the dash.
Using my second most favorite tool
(after of course the hammer), I hacksawed
the rough size, then Dremel tooled
it to a circular shape that plugged the
dash cutouts perfectly. Next step
was to decide whether to mount the tweeters
flush or to use the surface
mount "domes" to have them facing the passengers
instead of facing up at the
windshield. This involved using the supplied
screws to screw the base to the
mounting plug and drilling a hole to pull the
wires through. Mega hi
frequency response very audible when adjusting the
3.5khz and 10Khz
equalizer bands. I wanted to try this surface mount first as
it will be very
easy to convert to the flush mount, if I choose to later on
simply by
cutting the "doughnut hole" from the center of my mounting
disc
So all is well? Not exactly... While going through all of this, I
noticed a
huge difference in the driver's side door speaker vs. the passenger
side
speaker. I think the woofer is blown and the tweeter is probably about
shot
too. Moving around the equalizer settings makes little difference
when
testing out this driver's side door speaker while there is
significant
difference in sound when the same is done to the right hand side.
So, Jeff's
page shows how he installed Infinity Kappa 63.1 6.5" door speakers
and I'm
seeing myself doing the same. Then later on down the road, after my
wallet
catches its breath, I would like to replace the rear 6x9
speakers.
Any heads up or gotchas other than what Jeff has so kindly
illustrated on
his site? Are the Infinity speakers the way to go? I know that
the
sub-woofer issue is pretty much insurmountable with the stock stereo.
Any
new news or ideas on how to get a sub incorporated into the stock
system?
Are we at 100 watts with the stock system?
Another totally
unrelated oddity is that every since I got my clutch redone,
I have what
appear to be stuck pixels on the LCD display of my head unit. It
looks like a
blob of orange pixels in between the two digits that display CD
track number.
Cosmetic issue only but I'd love to find out why all of a
sudden it started
doing this.
Gonna flush the cooling system today and refill with the
Water Wetter setup.
Also plan to replace the brake fluid with the DOT 4 and
vacuum pump bleeder
I purchased yesterday. Brake sequence is right rear, left
front, left rear,
right front... Right? Car running while doing the drain
& bleed, right?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:50:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dash speakers, brake bleeding...
yes.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Desert Fox
[SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 11:48
AM
> To: Team 3S list
> Cc:
dschilberg@pobox.com> Subject:
Team3S: Dash speakers, brake bleeding...
>
> Also plan to replace
the brake fluid with the DOT 4 and vacuum pump
> bleeder
> I
purchased yesterday. Brake sequence is right rear, left front, left
>
rear,
> right front... Right? Car running while doing the drain &
bleed, right?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:56:26
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
> Now onto the tech part of my email,
could I simply remove the
> drivers side ECU access panel to find the
buzzer?
Not really - it'd be hard to see from there. It's actually
closer to the
passenger's side. The easiest way I've found is to remove
the radio (1 trim
ring, 4 screws, and a couple of wiring plugs if you need to
pull it all the
way out). It's a blue harness behind the radio kinda
"up and to the right"
as you face the radio. Open the door, put the key
in the ignition, and
you'll home in on the harness easily :) AFAIK,
that harness is only for the
buzzer, so you can just disconnect it and not
worry about cutting/splicing
any wires.
- --Erik
Side
note: apparently, that buzzer does serve other purposes as well...
in
my VR-4, after you turn the ignition to "ON," the buzzer is on all
the time
and never, ever goes off. I think if I listen to the
fluctuations in the
buzzer tone, I can hear it saying, "You IDIOT, you hit a
wall and your
airbags deployed! WHY, oh WHY are you trying to drive
me?"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:05:45
-0700
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low boost
I don,t have any pre cats or the main cat. I took
them out when I did the
exhaust system. I made an intake pressure system this
weekend, I found a
couple leaks that I fixed but still only boosts to 5lbs.
Im not sure what it
is Im leaning towards the turbos but I thought they would
smoke and they
definetley do not. This is getting very frustrating. Thanks
for any help.
Pete
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: low boost
>
Absolutely right about clogged cats. Not only may it affect boost, but
it
> can cause engine overheating as well. I just replaced the cat on my
BMW
and
> it fixed a two year old problem of constant overheating in
traffic. Great
> advice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:57:10
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Re: Team3S: low boost
I have the same problem in
my 94 vr-4.
The way mine works is when the car is hot or I am driving in
traffic or just on the street it will not boost past 5psi. On the other had if I
am on the highway and dive it at low rpm's like 2-2.7k it will boost
normally.
You can do the same test on your car. Take to the highway go about
70mph for 2 min in 6th and then see if it will boost. Mine boosts fine at that
point.
I have posted a similar question on the list and had no luck in
getting any answers.
I do not think its the solenoid nor the wastegates and
specialy not the turbos since it will boost fine when the car is cool/ low
temperature.
If someone had this type of an issue and can shed some
advise it would make my life so much easier. I just hate driving my car at 5psi.
I just ordered a boost controller and will install it in about 2 weeks.
We will see if that fixes it but I hate going that route especialy if it is not
the stock solenoid that is bad. AAM recommended that I put a boost contoller and
a blow off valve to fix the issue but they are full of shit. I spend $12,000 on
a brand new motor clutch etc... and thats all they can say. I am not happy with
them at all.
Roman G. 94 vr-4
"Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>I don,t have any pre cats or the main cat. I took them out
when I did the
>exhaust system. I made an intake pressure system this
weekend, I found a
>couple leaks that I fixed but still only boosts to
5lbs. Im not sure what it
>is Im leaning towards the turbos but I thought
they would smoke and they
>definetley do not. This is getting very
frustrating. Thanks for any help.
>
>Pete
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:54:07
-0700
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: low boost
Roman, thanks for the info but that hasn't
cured my problem, hot or cold
still only 5lbs. I put it back to the stock
boost controller (5lbs). Blitz
controller (5lbs).
Thanks,
Pete
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <
romachka21@netscape.net>
To:
""Pete"" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>; ""Andrew
Woll"" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 22, 2002 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: Re: Team3S: low
boost
> I have the same problem in my 94 vr-4.
>
> The way
mine works is when the car is hot or I am driving in traffic or
just on the
street it will not boost past 5psi. On the other had if I am on
the highway
and dive it at low rpm's like 2-2.7k it will boost normally.
> You can do
the same test on your car. Take to the highway go about 70mph
for 2 min in
6th and then see if it will boost. Mine boosts fine at that
point.
> I
have posted a similar question on the list and had no luck in getting
any
answers.
> I do not think its the solenoid nor the wastegates and specialy
not the
turbos since it will boost fine when the car is cool/ low
temperature.
>
> If someone had this type of an issue and can shed
some advise it would
make my life so much easier. I just hate driving my car
at 5psi.
>
> I just ordered a boost controller and will install it
in about 2 weeks. We
will see if that fixes it but I hate going that route
especialy if it is not
the stock solenoid that is bad. AAM recommended that I
put a boost contoller
and a blow off valve to fix the issue but they are full
of shit. I spend
$12,000 on a brand new motor clutch etc... and thats all
they can say. I am
not happy with them at all.
>
> Roman G. 94
vr-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:45:00
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re: Re:
Team3S: low boost
> Roman, thanks for the info but that hasn't cured
my
> problem, hot or cold still only 5lbs. I put it back
> to the
stock boost controller (5lbs). Blitz
> controller
(5lbs).
Disconnect the line from your boost controller to the
wastegates and carefully accelerate and see if you get
more than 5 psi
of boost. If you do, then your boost
controller(s) are hooked up wrong
or not functioning
properly.
Also make sure that the signal hose from
your blowoff
valve is properly hooked up to the manifold pressure
line
on top of the throttle body. If it isn't, it'll
leak tons of boost out
back into the intake.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:19:50
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: DSBC/Exhaust Question
Has anybody tried a dual stage manual boost
controller(DSBC) such as the
Turbo XS? Just cut and paste this ridiculously
long link if you want to read
about it. Also, I'm trying to decide on what
cat-back system to buy for my
VR-4. I've kinda narrowed it down to the BORLA
and ATR ones. Both are pretty
expensive though. A few years ago my brother
bought a cat-back system for
his Camaro. He had a local muffler shop try
replicate it using very
near-same quality pipes. The guy at the muffler shop
was pretty good at
using the bending machine and came up with something that
looked very
similar to the original one. In fact, if you took the muffler
section away,
you really couldn't have distinguished which was which except
for the pipe
material. He ended up buying the same exact muffler and
tips and installing
the copied system and sold the store-bought one. He saved
over $300. Sure,
it wasn't bolt on and the quality pipe was not exactly the
same, but unless
you plan on keeping that car for 20 years, does it really
matter? And how
many times do you actually say, hmmn? it's a nice sunny day,
I think I'll
change my exhaust system today? So the bolt on convenience is
not much.
Sorry for the clutter, but what do you all think?
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:22:28
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSBC/Exhaust Question
Sorry, I accidently clicked send
without inserting the link I was talking
about. Here it is.
http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PTDBC&MakeCode=mitsub&ModelCode=3000gt&ModelYear=1991%2D1999%20VR%2D4%20Twin%20Turbo&ModelDesc=3000GT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:54:51
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ARC II and Injectors for sale
Hey Everyone,
I had a buyer
for the ARC II but he backed out. So if anyone is interested.
ARC- just
reprogrammed to the R5 (Revision 5, latest revision) and all new wiring. -$700
obo.
RC 550cc injectors 500 mi on them - $300 +stock
injectors.
E-mail me if interested, I'm going to post them on 3 si
tomorrow if no one is interested.
Curtis
1995 Vr-4
Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:20:26
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: TMO
datalogger for sale...
I have a slightly used TMO datalogger with
software for sale. This
works great on the 1st gens. I'm asking
$150 shipped for it. Let me
know if you're
interested.
Thanks
Damon
PS- selling cuz lap top broke and
won't be buying a new one for a while.
Guess the laptops aren't
really made to take 1G turns like the rest of
the car!!!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:26:47
-0400
From: "Chris" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
DSBC/Exhaust Question
I have a similar setup on my car using the valve
from
www.boostvalve.comWith this
setup I can toggle between the stock boost setting and the
adjustable setting
on the boost valve only. You simple use the stock
solenoid and put a
toggle switch in the power wire to turn it off and on.
Real easy to do!
Directions here :
http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/3s.htmlChris
McFarland
93 Stealth R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
Sorry, I
accidently clicked send without inserting the link I was talking
about. Here
it is.
http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PTDBC&MakeCode=mitsub&ModelCode=3000gt&ModelYear=1991%2D1999%20VR%2D4%20Twin%20Turbo&ModelDesc=3000GT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:30:00
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSBC/Exhaust Question
DSBC is the Dual Solenoid Boost
Controller from Blitz. It's bad the thing
carries the same name but it works.
If you want install it.
Exhaust, sure, just go to ebay, buy two OBX Bomb
B mufflers and let a shop
do the piping and hangers. Will work for sure.
Dunno how it will sound,
where the resonance will be but why
not.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Has anybody tried a dual
stage manual boost controller(DSBC) such as the
> Turbo XS?
> .
Also, I'm trying to decide on what cat-back system to buy for my
> VR-4.
I've kinda narrowed it down to the BORLA and ATR ones.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:34:14
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Shockproof Light
Q: Why would you want to use Shockproof Light, for
less friction? That is
the only advantage, due to lower
viscosity. I am of the opinion that the
major issue with the transfer
case is breakage/longevity, NOT friction
reduction. Thus, I go with the
fluid that would seem to offer the best
protection: Shockproof
Heavy. I don't see any significant downside to
using the heavier,
better-protecting fluid in this situation. I suspect
Light would also
work fine, but since cost is same...
JT
From: "Dave and Rebecca Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
> Has
anyone run Redline Shockproof Light the their transfer case?
I
usually
> run Shockproof Heavy, but since all my driving is open
track with no hard
> launching, I'm thinking Shockproof Light would be
sufficient.
> Dave T/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:41:02
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
cooling engine
My 94 with FMIC had temps into the red zone, though never
actually boiled
over, while at Road America this last weekend at 15-20 psi
boost. It was
33-42 F (cold!) outside. Ran with heater on full
after that, which took it
down to 1-2 notches below red usually. I plan
to work on the air management
at the front of the car to assure it is routed
through/not around the
radiator/IC, and probably a bigger/aluminum radiator
too sometime.
I don't recall seeing it in the red zone with sidemount IC's
but never
stared at the heat gauge before either ;)
JT
To: "'Floyd,
Jim'" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
>
http://www.ppeengineering.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#819
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