Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, March 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
778
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:21:06 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Our ABS is bad??
Was reading through a SCC the other day
regarding good and bad ABS. I
think it was Rich on here that lost
almost all of hi s braking due to a
broken rotor one time. I don't
remember the specifics of it, or if we
even discussed this, but it makes some
sense. Our ABS is a 2 channel
system... If lockup is detected on
the right front wheel, then the left
rear wheel is also affected. From
what I was reading, is that the early
model Sentras have this same type of
ABS system. This is how bad it
really is... They are lighter cars
of course, and on a real track, are
likely to lift their inside rear wheel at
high cornering speeds...
Well, What started happening was when a driver was
braking at the same
time, he would lose all braking to the most important
brake wheel, the
outer front wheel. This would happen cause the inside
rear wheel would
be easy to lock up due to weight transfer, or just because
it was in the
air entirely, while that was happening, the ABS system would
see a
"locked up" wheel, and try to control it (of course at the same time,
it
was also controlling the opposite wheel, which would be the outer
front
wheel). This would cause almost entire loss of braking because
the
outer front wheel has the most pressure, thus the most traction to
slow
the car.
My question is, and I have thought a
lot about this lately, but.... are
there any ways to make our ABS work
better. I know its not up to
standards, and any time I feel the ABS
engage, the car feels like it's
never going to stop. Magazine testers
claim cars stop faster with ABS,
but they don't say exactly what ABS systems
they are claiming this
about. Who has theirs entirely
disconnected?
Also, on a side note: The article also said
that the new WRX's ABS
systems sucked cause they were so twitchy, that say
slowing down on a
road with a little gravel on it, the wheels were ~never~
allowed to lock
up even for a split second, whereas good ABS systems will
allow the
lockup, but compensate very quickly after initial
lockup...
Any Suggestions....
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:25:23
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: gauges
Re-read. Seems like you are saying "remove
lights that DO NOT light
symbols from the rear"
That would mean
any lights Facing the gauges from the outside of the
gauge pod, which we
don't have....
You are fine, complete what you are
doing....
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Octavio
Perallon-Diaz [mailto:perallono001@hawaii.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 10,
2002 1:20 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject:
gauges
has any one installed the El-glo overlay faces, i have a q? on
the
instruction it said that you can put this over the other with
out
removing
the needle, but at the same time it say to remove any bulbs
that dot not
light symbols from rear, it appears that this is contradicting
it self,
any
info on this please let me know, thanks and
aloha.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:35:58
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speaking of Seats...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 10:26 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speaking of
Seats...
>I'm using 5-point harnesses and removing light bulbs and
buzzers....
>I was pleased to see that the corbeau bracket had a place to
mount the
>center console side of the seat belt. It saves me some time
rigging a mount
>on the car body. I'll use the same mounting location on
the other side, and
>attach the 2 shoulder straps to the roll
cage.
>
>Wayne
-
----------------------------------------------------------
That it good
to hear! I've not been looking forward
to drilling the holes for that
inside location near the
console/ near the driveshaft etc.
I went with
Corbeau on the entire setup since
unlike some other brands like Sparco, I
knew their
brackets would fit our cars properly. Now
I'm finding out
they even elliminate the
need to drill the inside belt
attachment
hole! That means I won't have to drill
any holes at all
for any of the belt
mounting points! The massive, heavy
duty Road
Race Enginneering
rear strut bar works great for a rear
mounting
mount!
I have heard at least half a dozen horror
stories when using
other brands because
the brackets don't really work with
our cars.
Sparco seems to be among
the worst [completely useless]
for fit and
compatability on a 3S.
The archives contain several stories
about
those that have tried using other
brands - they usually end up having
to
use home made brackets or spending
a lot of time modifying the
brackets
they purchased which don't really fit.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:38:35
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speed Ratings vs. Tire Repair
Well, as some may know, I work for
Discount Tire right now... I am
currently in training on all their
repair procedures/ replacement, and
stuff like that... I am on on a
fast track to store manager due to all
my previous experience, but I have to
learn the basics first...
Anyways... I thought you all might be
interested in some tire repair
info, since I've seen it debated here a couple
times recently...
The maximum legal size of hole a tire can be repaired
is 1/4" in the
tread area, or a simple pinhole in the corner of the
tread. Anything on
the sidewall whatsoever is not repairable. The
speed rating given to a
tire still stands after one correct repair.
(plug + patch for tread
area, patch only for shoulder area). After the
one repair, the tire no
longer has a speed rating. It is still a safe
tire to drive on the
road, but the speed rating no longer applies. It
will more than likely
be OK up to any speed it was previously rated to, but
as a technicality,
it's no longer a real rating.
Also, those who have
problems balancing wheels/tires. It can be done on
ANY wheel/tire, and
there are many different ways to balance a wheel
also. If anyone is
having troubles with that, I can most likely help.
I've spent the last week
playing around with all the different machines
and tools, and have learnt a
lot about how they work, and the different
things to do...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:55:24
-0600
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
Been gutting my intake as of late and decided to
test my OEM BOV.
Leaks pretty good. :-) The question I have, is
what have our list members
used successfully?
Open vs. closed
system?
Manufacturers/models that people are happy with?
Thanks
guys,
Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:59:06
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
To uphold the Sparco name ... when I bought
my seat I knew I would be
the only driver of the car on the track so I didn't
need to get sliders
like most other seat installs have.
Therefore, I
did not buy their bracket (and maybe good thing knowing
that it might not
have fit anyway). But the seat was shipped quickly,
matched description
and dimensions, was a great price, had a few more
features than were listed
on their product page, and is a perfect fit
for me.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 with Sparco Evo fiberglass race seat weighing 16# (bathroom
scale
weight)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 14:36
That it good to hear! I've not been
looking forward
to drilling the holes for that inside location near
the
console/ near the driveshaft etc.
I went with Corbeau on the
entire setup since
unlike some other brands like Sparco, I knew
their
brackets would fit our cars properly. Now
I'm finding out they
even elliminate the
need to drill the inside belt attachment
hole!
That means I won't have to drill
any holes at all for any of the
belt
mounting points! The massive, heavy
duty Road Race
Enginneering
rear strut bar works great for a rear
mounting
mount!
I have heard at least half a dozen horror
stories when using
other brands because
the brackets don't really work with
our cars.
Sparco seems to be among
the worst [completely useless]
for fit and
compatability on a 3S.
The archives contain several stories
about
those that have tried using other
brands - they usually end up having
to
use home made brackets or spending
a lot of time modifying the
brackets
they purchased which don't really fit.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:12:00
-0600
From: "Craig Hodges" <
chodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
I have a Greddy Type S, and I think a lot of
guys use these. It works great
for me. You do need to cable tye it out of the
way of the shifting linkage.
But otherwise it works great.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Shane Thoms
Sent: Sunday,
March 10, 2002 2:55 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
Been gutting my intake as of late and decided to
test my OEM BOV.
Leaks pretty good. :-) The question I have, is
what have our list members
used successfully?
Open vs. closed
system?
Manufacturers/models that people are happy with?
Thanks
guys,
Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:17:41
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Our ABS is bad??
Cody,
I believe Jim Berry
has his ABS completely disconnected. I still
need ABS connected until I
can learn the feel of the car to the road or
the different situations I find
myself in. My car is the daily driver
so I see gravel, water, leaves,
cobblestone, etc. as road surfaces. I
think Jim's is almost entirely a
track car which will only see asphalt
with concrete patches that is always
smooth until the occasional dirt
gets put on the track.
A
really good driver can stop faster without ABS because they are in
control
of, as you noted, the initial lock-up and some cars never
reach
lock-up. I don't think the majority of us are that kind of
driver. And
if you DO get into an accident and the insurance or police
find that
your ABS is completely disconnected ... well ... you can see who
will
get blamed for not being able to keep their car under
control.
So the way to beat the ABS system is to not let the
rear inside tire
to lift off the ground. Do this by stiffer springs,
better suspension,
better driving, etc. I say keep the system the say
it is since to
change it would mean changing the brain, sensor, wheel speed
indicators,
G-sensors, etc. I don't think it is worth the
trouble. Just get the
car stable so it won't lift the inside
wheel. That means me, with the
heavy track car, actually has an
advantage now by not gutting out the
interior. <laugh> I
knew there was a reason.
I've never seen a 3/S get close to
lifting a wheel on any corner in
AutoX or road course. That would take
one heck of an input speed and
one heck of a sharp corner. I think the
natural understeering keeps the
car from turning if it tries this move or
will spin out from oversteer.
I doubt many of us have modded a car enough to
corner that hard. I may
be wrong, but I think it will be hard to lift
an inside wheel on one of
our cars. We need the 650+ hp guys to try
this. THEY might be able to
do it.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
Sent: Sunday, March
10, 2002 14:21
Was reading through a SCC the other day regarding
good and bad ABS. I
think it was Rich on here that lost almost all of
hi s braking due to a
broken rotor one time. I don't remember the
specifics of it, or if we
even discussed this, but it makes some sense.
Our ABS is a 2 channel
system... If lockup is detected on the right
front wheel, then the left
rear wheel is also affected. From what I was
reading, is that the early
model Sentras have this same type of ABS
system. This is how bad it
really is... They are lighter cars of
course, and on a real track, are
likely to lift their inside rear wheel at
high cornering speeds...
Well, What started happening was when a driver was
braking at the same
time, he would lose all braking to the most important
brake wheel, the
outer front wheel. This would happen cause the inside
rear wheel would
be easy to lock up due to weight transfer, or just because
it was in the
air entirely, while that was happening, the ABS system would
see a
"locked up" wheel, and try to control it (of course at the same time,
it
was also controlling the opposite wheel, which would be the outer
front
wheel). This would cause almost entire loss of braking because
the
outer front wheel has the most pressure, thus the most traction to
slow
the car.
My question is, and I have thought a
lot about this lately, but.... are
there any ways to make our ABS work
better. I know its not up to
standards, and any time I feel the ABS
engage, the car feels like it's
never going to stop. Magazine testers
claim cars stop faster with ABS,
but they don't say exactly what ABS systems
they are claiming this
about. Who has theirs entirely
disconnected?
Also, on a side note: The article also said
that the new WRX's ABS
systems sucked cause they were so twitchy, that say
slowing down on a
road with a little gravel on it, the wheels were ~never~
allowed to lock
up even for a split second, whereas good ABS systems will
allow the
lockup, but compensate very quickly after initial
lockup...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:20:18
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
On what type of car is this, Craig? I know
the shift linkage from a
first gen (5 speed) to a second gen (6 speed) is
slightly different.
The first gen has just one rod coming up for the shift
linkage and the
second gen has two rods.
I've seen an HKS Super
Sequential BOV on a first gen Stealth that I
don't think needed to be tied
out of the way (Ken Stanton's car). Maybe
I couldn't see if it was tied
back or not.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Craig Hodges
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002
16:12
I have a Greddy Type S, and I think a lot of guys use these.
It works
great
for me. You do need to cable tye it out of the way of the
shifting
linkage.
But otherwise it works great.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:21:56
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: another injector question...
Looking at my logs shows that
*sometimes* at WOT, I'll run lean
(.86-.88) the entire run, other times I run
fine (.92). I did the
"freefuelpumpmod" a couple weeks ago, and that
did lower the duty cycle
about 5-10% across the board. I'm planning a
more complete bypass this
spring, but this works fine for now.
Phil, I'd love to test our your Supra pump, see if it helps. When are
you
gonna be around here and have some time?
As for the duty cycle at
100%, the RCengineering site makes a comment
about never running your IDC's
above 80%, otherwise other problems will
arise (knock, running lean).
I've heard this many other places too.
Joe
91 RT/TT
black
"Philip V. Glazatov" wrote:
>
> At 08:16 PM 3/9/2002,
Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > > A bigger pump will not make any
difference
> > > if you keep the stock fuel pressure
regulator.
> > > If you want to be original, get a fuel
> >
> pressure regulator. It is much cheaper than the
> > >
injectors.
> >
> >I'm confused. How will a pump that
flows more fuel not make any difference?
> >If his pump can't supply as
much fuel as needed at the fuel pressure the
> >regulator is asking for
then how is a different regulator going to help?
>
> Matt, if you
know for sure that the stock pump could starve the injectors
> at 15 psi
of boost, than the stock pump could be the problem. Joe has a '91
> and
his pump is probably not that new anymore.
>
> However, if this is
not the pump, but simply the injectors, or the MAF, or
> the ECU that does
not know how much fuel to put in, then installing a
> bigger pump won't
change anything. The stock fuel pressure regulator will
> make sure that
all the extra gas will go back to the gas tank.
>
> Joe, you need
to analyze your data logs. If the O2 voltage becomes low only
> at high
RPM, then this is the pump. If you want, I could let you try my
> Supra
pump. I am not planning on installing it for another week or two.
>
> You could also buy a fuel pressure gauge. Not that many people have
those -
> you'll be pretty unconventional! ;-)
>
> I thought
a fuel pressure regulator would be a good way to richen out the
> mixture
without having to buy bigger injectors and an A/F controller.
>
>
Still, the only way to reduce the duty cycles in the open-loop mode at
WOT
> is to fool the ECU with an A/F controller.
>
>
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:37:01
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: high power bulb kit on ebay
Has anyone seen or know anything
about a kit like this ? I am looking to replace the stock bulbs in my 1997
VR-4 for something a
little brighter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1810619730I
was looking at PIAA bulbs, and this guy said that the bulbs in this kit are made
by piaa's oem, biolights in Japan, and that the
wiring harness handle over
130 w to protect the car.
Does this sound about right or is he full of
it?
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:44:39
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: breather filter question
Has anyone seen one of these ? I
have a little filter like this, that I want to use like this to eliminate the
oil build up in the
intake plenum.
But I am confused what hose this
will take the place of ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1811125367Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:09:32
-0600
From: "Craig Hodges" <
chodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
I have a 1999 VR4.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 3:20 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
On what type of car is this, Craig? I
know the shift linkage from a
first gen (5 speed) to a second gen (6 speed)
is slightly different.
The first gen has just one rod coming up for the shift
linkage and the
second gen has two rods.
I've seen an HKS Super
Sequential BOV on a first gen Stealth that I
don't think needed to be tied
out of the way (Ken Stanton's car). Maybe
I couldn't see if it was tied
back or not.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Craig Hodges
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002
16:12
I have a Greddy Type S, and I think a lot of guys use these.
It works
great
for me. You do need to cable tye it out of the way of the
shifting
linkage.
But otherwise it works great.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:17:18
-0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
Shane...
I have the HKS Super BOV now,
had a Blitz for a while after removing the OEM unit. The Blitz seemed to be more
difficult to adjust and, frankly, I didn't like the sound of it. You could
probably find lots of information in the archives about the BOV varieties and
their installation, which is the "biggest" issue, as there's very little room in
our engine compartment for extra hoses. I used half the space where the stock
battery used to be when I replaced it with a dry cell. Now that I'm switching
over to a trunk mounted battery, I have an extra four inches up front!!! Getting
cold air into the engine compartment is still one of the most significant
issues, so I'm toying with ways to do that without cutting sheet
metal.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC
560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers, Odyssey dry cell battery, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe
and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield
R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX
MXX3 Pilots on 18" chromed wheels)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Shane Thoms [mailto:shanethoms@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 12:55
PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
Been gutting my intake as of late and decided to
test my OEM BOV.
Leaks pretty good. :-) The question I have, is
what have our list members
used successfully?
Open vs. closed
system?
Manufacturers/models that people are happy with?
Thanks
guys,
Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:27:40
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BOV Suggestions
I recently installed the Blitz BOV vented to the
atmosphere --- easy hookup,
no problems with stalling or hesitation. All in
all I'm happy with the
results.
Jim
berry
=========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Shane Thoms" <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 12:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
>
Been gutting my intake as of late and decided to test my OEM BOV.
> Leaks
pretty good. :-) The question I have, is what have our list
members
> used successfully?
>
> Open vs. closed
system?
>
> Manufacturers/models that people are happy
with?
>
> Thanks guys,
> Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:31:00
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BOV Suggestions
I've asked this question before --- what's to adjust on
the Blitz BOV ?? I've adjusted
it from min to max and noticed no difference
in operation. It seems to adjust tension
on the spring over a very limited
range --- seems useless to me
!!!
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>
I have the HKS Super BOV now, had a Blitz for a while after removing the OEM
unit. The Blitz seemed to be more difficult to adjust
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:53:58
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speaking of Seats...
Todd --- did you just buy the Roadrace engineering
rear strut bar ???
I have one, but was told they don't make them
anymore.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
Todd wrote
------------
>
> That it good to hear! I've not been looking
forward
> to drilling the holes for that inside location near
the
snip
> That means I won't have to drill
> any holes
at all for any of the belt
> mounting points! The massive,
heavy
> duty Road Race Enginneering
> rear strut bar works great for
a rear
> mounting mount!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:26:43
-0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
Jim...
The adjustment screw controls
the amount of backpressure required to vent (i.e., the point at which the BOV
opens versus allowing the air to flow from the turbo into the throttle body). I
suppose it is useless to some degree, that is, you can ask: how much difference
does it make when the BOV vents?
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 3:31 PM
To: Chris Winkley; Shane Thoms;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
I've asked this question before --- what's to
adjust on the Blitz BOV ?? I've adjusted
it from min to max and noticed no
difference in operation. It seems to adjust tension
on the spring over a very
limited range --- seems useless to me
!!!
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>
I have the HKS Super BOV now, had a Blitz for a while after removing the OEM
unit. The Blitz seemed to be more difficult to adjust
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:43:55
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
What was the change that they made to get
the 20hp
difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
make on
the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
starting up my new 13G's, do I need to
change the
spark plug gap for the up graded
turbos.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 20:14:46
-0600
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
I believe it is the increased boost from
11 to 14psi. Correct me if I'm
wrong. :)
Kar-Yeong
95
RT/TT
menalteed wrote:
> What was the change that they made to get
the 20hp
> difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
>
make on the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
> starting up my new 13G's,
do I need to change the
> spark plug gap for the up graded turbos.
>
> Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:23:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
Ahh..great!
For the hell of
it..can ya ask em if they have slider hardware for a 93
celica?
On
Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Wayne wrote:
> The bases fit in the car fine. They
are shaped to fit the height
> differences explained by Darren. They even
have built in mounting locations
> for the seat belt similar to the stock
seats.
>
> The problem is mounting the bases to the sliders. I
contacted Corbeau, and
> they said i'm missing some parts. I need to call
them tomorrow, and
> hopefully they will send the missing parts for
free.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> At 10:16 PM 3/9/02 -0800,
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >When I ordered the seats for our VR4 (which
Wayne now has) they showed the
> >right brackets..and thats what he
has. The box sat unopened for a year.
> >
> >Thats all I
know..
> >
> >On Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> >
> > > To everyone installing or thinking of
installing race seats ...
> > >
> > > I have not
purchased or seen aftermarket brackets so I can't comment if
> > >
they fit our cars or not. I doubt they will. The floor where
the
> > > driver's and passenger's seat sits is not flat (I think
the contour
> > > slopes up toward the centerline of the car and
there is about a one inch
> > > ridge about halfway between the
front of the seat mounting bolt holes
> > > and the rear
ones).
> > >
> > > A friend made a custom mounting
bracket for my Sparco Evo race seat that
> > > aligns to the stock
driver's seat mounting location and has holes
> > > drilled in it
for the Sparco brackets (L brackets) to attach to. I
> > >
imagine most Momo, Sparco, Corbeau, etc. seats have similar layouts.
>
> > Contact me privately if you want these dimensions. I don't have
one for
> > > the passenger side but will gander that it is very
close to the driver's
> > > side dimensions. The bracket is
more like a trapezoid.
> > >
> > > I think Mikael
Akenson built a mounting bracket out of a solid piece of
> > > metal
that was formed to the shape of the floor. We used four pieces of
>
> > 2" x 1/4" steel strip fastened with a TIG welder (friends with tools
are
> > > fun sometimes). After a few trial fits we had a
winning situation. The
> > > anti-sub belt for the harness is
even welded to the center of the rear
> > > part of the
bracket. Great layout.
> > >
> > > Only use Grade
8 (English) or Grade 8.8 (Metric) hardware when attaching
> > > the
seat brackets to any mounting bracket and then you can use the stock
>
> > seat mounting bolts to attach the seat bracket to the floor.
This is
> > > when the Dremel comes in handy to custom-shape certain
areas to fit
> > > nicely.
> > >
> > > I
have some pics but now that the seat is not in the car I can take some
>
> > better ones with dimensions. Let me know how I can help.
>
> >
> > > Stock second gen power driver's seat = 60# (bathroom
scale)
> > > Stock second gen passenger's seat = 40# (bathroom
scale)
> > >
> > > Remember that the driver's seat takes
the stock seatbelt mounting point
> > > with it and has some
harnesses plugged in the bottom. Have a friend
> > > help or
just get ready to wrestle with the seat while disconnecting the
> >
> plugs. Once you get in there you will see how it all fits. DO
NOT
> > > scrape up the threads on the front studs of the seats or
you will need
> > > to cut them again (trust me -- I know).
The rear mounting points use a
> > > bolt instead of a nut so there
is no chance of stripping threads in the
> > > back mounting
points.
> > >
> > > Lots more info but needed to give
some heads-up to a few major steps
> > > involved. Don't
forget that you lose your seatbelt unless you put in a
> > > new
one, junkyard one, maybe a DSM one, or salvage the old one and put
> >
> it on the seat or the center console/tunnel area.
> > >
>
> > --Flash!
> > > 1995 VR-4, Sparco Evo race seat and Simpson
5-pt harness when track
> > > prepped
> > >
> >
> -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Bradford J. Gay
>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 18:48
> > >
> >
> Okay, I'm looking at installing the Sparco Milanos. Has
anyone
> > > installed these or does anyone have a clue on which
brackets and stuff I
> > > need along with what do I need for the
four-point harnesses? Thanks.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:23:57
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
Close --- I think the numbers were about 8 or 9
to about 11 or 12.
Jim
Berry
====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kar-Yeong Teoh" <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
> I
believe it is the increased boost from 11 to 14psi. Correct me if I'm
>
wrong. :)
>
> Kar-Yeong
> 95 RT/TT
>
> menalteed
wrote:
> > What was the change that they made to get the 20hp
>
> difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
> > make on
the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
> > starting up my new 13G's, do
I need to change the
> > spark plug gap for the up graded
turbos.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:30:43
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: high power bulb kit on ebay
Want brighter
bulbs????
Upgrade the wiring..no..honest. You can gain 10-15%
voltage at the bulb
by simply upgrading the guage of wiring from the
relays.
A -must- if you upgrade bulb wattages.
On Sun, 10 Mar
2002, Anthony Melillo wrote:
> Has anyone seen or know anything about
a kit like this ? I am looking to replace the stock bulbs in my 1997 VR-4
for something a
> little brighter.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1810619730>
> I was looking at PIAA bulbs, and this guy said that the bulbs in this
kit are made by piaa's oem, biolights in Japan, and that the
> wiring
harness handle over 130 w to protect the car.
>
> Does this sound
about right or is he full of it?
>
> Anthony Melillo
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 23:40:28
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: another injector question...
At 04:21 PM 3/10/2002, Joe
Kenwabikise wrote:
>Looking at my logs shows that *sometimes* at WOT, I'll
run lean
>(.86-.88) the entire run, other times I run fine (.92). I
did the
>"freefuelpumpmod" a couple weeks ago, and that did lower the duty
cycle
>about 5-10% across the board. I'm planning a more complete
bypass this
>spring, but this works fine for now.
Do you have the
link to this mod?
Since the lean condition is at all RPM, it is unlikely
that a better pump
would help. If that was the pump problem, the lean
condition would be only
at high RPM and WOT when fuel demand is several
times higher than at low
RPM WOT.
>Phil, I'd love to test our your
Supra pump, see if it helps. When are
>you gonna be around here and have
some time?
I can let you use it for a week. I will email you privately. I
have a boost
controller now too - an Apexi AVCR. Trying to figure out the
settings. I'll
need the pump once I figure out
everything.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 23:52:01
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
> What was the change that they
made to get the 20hp
> difference. Would this be a natural and easy change
to
> make on the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
> starting up my
new 13G's, do I need to change the
> spark plug gap for the up graded
turbos.
Remove the restrictor ring from the input side of the boost
control
solenoid. You can find detailed instructions posted here by me
in the List
Archives. Just search for "boost restrictor ring" and you
should find it.
It'll give you the difference in PSI up to the '94 and later
spec the same
way the factory built it.
http://www.team3s.com/Search.htmI
actually just tried to find it, and had a difficult time locating it.
The
solenoid on the firewall closest to the driver's side of the car should
be
the boost control solenoid. In one of the two nipples on it if you
look
real close there's a plastic insert pushed into the end. Pull it
out with a
drill bit or something similar (use a bit slightly smaller than
the hole in
the insert, fire up the drill and wiggle the bit slightly to grab
the insert
and then slowly pull out). Put the hose back on and you'll
have a bit more
boost, same as the second generation cars.
The hoses
on the boost control solenoid should connect to the "H" fitting
under the
throttle body, and the other hose will go down to the intake hose
for the
rear turbo. The insert should be on the nipple that goes to the
"H"
fitting.
How this works is it just lets the boost control system
bleed off a little
more pressure which delays opening the wastegates by a
couple psi. If you
get excessive knock for some reason, the ECU will
close the solenoid and
reduce you down to 6 psi to protect the
motor.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 00:55:55
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: another injector question...
Well, what would you guys
suggest? If the upgraded fuel pump doesn't do
anything, should I go for
larger injectors? Or a combination perhaps...
Well, in any case, I'm
not getting any knock (highest I've seen is a
.1sec spike of 4), so I think
I'll be ok for a while :)
thanks,
Joe
91 RT/TT black
"Philip
V. Glazatov" wrote:
>
> At 04:21 PM 3/10/2002, Joe Kenwabikise
wrote:
> >Looking at my logs shows that *sometimes* at WOT, I'll run
lean
> >(.86-.88) the entire run, other times I run fine (.92). I
did the
> >"freefuelpumpmod" a couple weeks ago, and that did lower the
duty cycle
> >about 5-10% across the board. I'm planning a more
complete bypass this
> >spring, but this works fine for now.
>
> Do you have the link to this mod?
>
> Since the lean
condition is at all RPM, it is unlikely that a better pump
> would help.
If that was the pump problem, the lean condition would be only
> at high
RPM and WOT when fuel demand is several times higher than at low
> RPM
WOT.
>
> >Phil, I'd love to test our your Supra pump, see if it
helps. When are
> >you gonna be around here and have some time?
>
> I can let you use it for a week. I will email you privately. I have a
boost
> controller now too - an Apexi AVCR. Trying to figure out the
settings. I'll
> need the pump once I figure out everything.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 22:30:55
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Porsche Monoblocks?
The original Mov'it kits and Brad Bedell's
kit use the calipers from the
993. Mov'it has since moved to the
monoblock 996 caliper. You can read
about it at
http://www.ultimategarage.com.
>
Aren't the 993 or 996 calipers the Monoblock ones we are using on the
big
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:57:04
+0100
From: Henri Le Hir <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
5mm spacers
On my 1st Gen Stealth RT/TT, I found that the handling was
"understeering by
design".
So I had a serious look at the front
suspension, made some tests with my
accelerometers (dry / wet / ice / snow),
did some math, and found out that
I'd theoritically have to put 7mm spacers
on the front (both sides).
Unfortunately, I could only find HR 5mm
spacers for the Stealth / VR4, so
it's what I have.
Right now, the car
is definitively more responsive (from the steering point
of view), and maybe
just a little (as in very little ) bit still
understeering.
But it's
definitively a lot more neutral than it used to be.
I'll keep it this
way
Best
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 06:55:11
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
christopher0@attbi.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
The piece that gets in the way is the shifter
counter weight, which was
added to the second
gens.
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 3:20 PM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
>
> On what type of car is
this, Craig? I know the shift linkage from a
> first gen (5 speed)
to a second gen (6 speed) is slightly different.
> The first gen has just
one rod coming up for the shift linkage and the
> second gen has two
rods.
>
> I've seen an HKS Super Sequential BOV on a first gen
Stealth that I
> don't think needed to be tied out of the way (Ken
Stanton's car). Maybe
> I couldn't see if it was tied back or
not.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 08:22:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: another injector question...
> Well, what would you guys
suggest? If the upgraded fuel pump
> doesn't do anything, should I
go for larger injectors? Or a
> combination perhaps... Well, in any
case, I'm not getting any
> knock (highest I've seen is a .1sec spike of
4), so I think
> I'll be ok for a while :)
Could also be that your
O2 sensor(s) are getting old if you've got a lot of
miles on them. As
they age they become less responsive. If you aren't
getting knock
that's a good thing. Could also try cleaning the injectors
too as
preventative maintenance.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:14:23
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
What does that counter weight do ?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Deutsch
[mailto:christopher0@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 5:55 AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
The piece that gets in the way is the shifter
counter weight, which was
added to the second
gens.
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 3:20 PM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
>
>
> On what type of car
is this, Craig? I know the shift linkage from a
> first gen (5
speed) to a second gen (6 speed) is slightly different.
> The first gen
has just one rod coming up for the shift linkage and the
> second gen has
two rods.
>
> I've seen an HKS Super Sequential BOV on a first gen
Stealth that I
> don't think needed to be tied out of the way (Ken
Stanton's car). Maybe
> I couldn't see if it was tied back or
not.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:13:58
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
>What was the change that they made to
get the 20hp
difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
make
on the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
starting up my new 13G's, do I need
to change the
spark plug gap for the up graded turbos.<
Remove the
restrictor ring from the input side of the
boost control solenoid.
Thank you for that answer, that was what I was hoping
for, a simple
fix to get more boost for my new 13G
turbos, I wonder if the car's with the
13G,s in Europe
have a different boost control solenoid then what
we
have here in the States. Also would like to get a few
more opinions on
the spark plug gap settings for the
changes I'm made, removed the restrictor
on the boost
control, upgraded to 13G Turbos and changed the air
filter to
K&N.
Peter 92 TT 83K
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:29:16
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
turbos going bad?
I thought for sure it was the rear turbo as well. I
used a little
mirror to check around the back turbo and I couldn't see any
oil
around. It's possible that it is still coming out but being burn
up
from the heat. There was no oil in the intercooler either. It
was
recommended to change the PCV valve which I will do here in the
next
couple days. Unless my manual boost controller is really off I
don't
understand how I can get 15lbs with a cracked turbo. Plus the oil
is
throwing me off.
I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have a 92
Stealth TT and had
a
similar thing happen to me recently. I don't
have manual boost but,
experienced the "air escaping" sound near the rear, by
the firewall.
I
have never smelt oil, but experienced loss of oil over
time. As
well, I
noticed that often around 4,000 RPM the car seemed
to hesitate and
run
rough
After taking it in for a check-up, it was
revealed that my rear turbo
is
cracked. Not what I wanted to hear,
and I am sure not what you want
to
hear. It explains the air
escaping, the lack of boost and the oil
loss. It is rare that I have
the opportunity to drive the car the
way
it should be so I didn't notice
this as a big problem for a few
weeks,
the car seemed fine, except when
you wind it out. Thus, when the
rear
turbo kicked in it blew air out
of the turbo, as well as burnt oil
being
sent through the turbo.
I
was just about to sell it, now I might have to keep it seeing I'm
going to
soak a good buck into it. I hope you have better luck
with
yours.
Later,
Shannon
Casey Spivey
wrote:
> I have a '91 VR-4 with 147K miles on it. All maintenance and
work
has
> been done by me so I know it is current. I have a K&N,
full
exhaust,
> and a manual boost controller set to 15lbs. In the past
two weeks
it
> has started acting strange. It won't reach boost in 1st,
10lbs max
in
> second, and 15 in third. When the turbos are under boost
I have
> started smelling oil. There was a little trace of it last
summer
> when I had the IC pipes out. Also there is sometimes a loud
sound,
> like air escaping from somewhere, but only under boost. It seems
to
> be coming from close to the firewall, maybe the rear turbo.
Any
> thoughts on what is wrong? I was thinking maybe the seals in
the
> turbos are about shot. Thanks, Casey
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:40:27
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
christopher0@attbi.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
I believe it's supposed to make shifting
smoother or easier or something
like that. It's other function is to
get in the way of aftermarket BOVs. ;)
You can shift gears by moving it
around by hand (don't try it while the car
is running though!).
I
tried to file mine down but that sucker is strong! Others have
even
suggested cutting it off. In the end I settled on just zip tying
the BOV
out of the way.
Here's a pic:
http://home.attbi.com/~christopher0/bov.html(The
counter weight is the metal thing in the top right with the white dot
on
it.)
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Floyd, Jim
> Sent:
Monday, March 11, 2002 10:14 AM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
>
> What does that counter
weight do ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:52:37
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
> I have no idea why anyone would design a
strut tower bar with
> anything less than the maximum support between the
strut
> towers. Maybe for a lower selling price ?
How about
adjustability?
BTW, in response to Flash's question, yes, the (round)
Cusco rear strut
tower brace will allow storing the removable glass sunroof
in the stock
location with the brace installed.
Note: some of the
pictures are of my base model 3000GT (white), but there
are also some
pictures of my VR-4 (black).
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/RearStrutBar.html-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:48:11
-0500
From: Shannon <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbos going bad?
I was the exact same. I didn't smell
any oil burn or spot a single drop
of oil, that's when the mechanic told me
it was likely all burning up.
As well, my factory turbo gauge, showed full
turbo pressure, but the
mechanic said it wasn't reading
accurately.
What's the deal with PCV valve change? Just change it
to a new factory
valve, what is this supposed to
do?
Later,
Shannon
Casey Spivey wrote:
> I
thought for sure it was the rear turbo as well. I used a little
> mirror
to check around the back turbo and I couldn't see any oil
> around. It's
possible that it is still coming out but being burn up
> from the heat.
There was no oil in the intercooler either. It was
> recommended to change
the PCV valve which I will do here in the next
> couple days. Unless my
manual boost controller is really off I don't
> understand how I can get
15lbs with a cracked turbo. Plus the oil is
> throwing me
off.
>
> I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have a 92 Stealth
TT and had
> a
> similar thing happen to me recently. I don't
have manual boost but,
> experienced the "air escaping" sound near the
rear, by the firewall.
> I
> have never smelt oil, but experienced
loss of oil over time. As
> well, I
> noticed that often
around 4,000 RPM the car seemed to hesitate and
> run
>
rough
>
> After taking it in for a check-up, it was revealed that my
rear turbo
> is
> cracked. Not what I wanted to hear, and I am
sure not what you want
> to
> hear. It explains the air
escaping, the lack of boost and the oil
> loss. It is rare that I
have the opportunity to drive the car the
> way
> it should be so I
didn't notice this as a big problem for a few
> weeks,
> the car
seemed fine, except when you wind it out. Thus, when the
>
rear
> turbo kicked in it blew air out of the turbo, as well as burnt
oil
> being
> sent through the turbo.
>
> I was just
about to sell it, now I might have to keep it seeing I'm
> going to soak a
good buck into it. I hope you have better luck with
>
yours.
>
> Later,
>
> Shannon
>
> Casey
Spivey wrote:
>
> > I have a '91 VR-4 with 147K miles on it. All
maintenance and work
> has
> > been done by me so I know it is
current. I have a K&N, full
> exhaust,
> > and a manual boost
controller set to 15lbs. In the past two weeks
> it
> > has
started acting strange. It won't reach boost in 1st, 10lbs max
>
in
> > second, and 15 in third. When the turbos are under boost I
have
> > started smelling oil. There was a little trace of it
last summer
> > when I had the IC pipes out. Also there is
sometimes a loud sound,
> > like air escaping from somewhere, but only
under boost. It seems to
> > be coming from close to the firewall,
maybe the rear turbo. Any
> > thoughts on what is wrong? I was thinking
maybe the seals in the
> > turbos are about shot. Thanks,
Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:06:18
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbos going bad?
>What's the deal with PCV valve
change? Just change
it to a new factory valve, what is this supposed
to
do?<
>From the search pages, it did mention that the
PCV
valve does clog up. When it clogs you get some oil
leak
from excess
pressure at the oil fill cap. It is a oil
leak! Most times like on my TT, you
start to see oil
on the top front heat shield. It is a simple fix to
clean
or replace the PCV as a precaution. I also added
a new gasket to the oil cap.
That is all I know. I'm
just starting to learn about these cars, not by
choice
but because I can't find a trusted mechanic in my area
of Seattle.
Peter 92 TT Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:09:46
-0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
Folks...
Are you guys sure
about that (a boost control solenoid change adding 20hp)? I would swear there
was a camshaft profile change in 1994 (along with 4 bolt main bearings, 6 speed,
etc.).
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: menalteed [mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 11, 2002 9:14 AM
To: menalteed
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
>What was the change that they made to get the
20hp
difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
make on the 92
TT. One other question, soon be
starting up my new 13G's, do I need to change
the
spark plug gap for the up graded turbos.<
Remove the restrictor
ring from the input side of the
boost control solenoid.
Thank you for
that answer, that was what I was hoping
for, a simple fix to get more boost
for my new 13G
turbos, I wonder if the car's with the 13G,s in Europe
have
a different boost control solenoid then what we
have here in the
States. Also would like to get a few
more opinions on the spark plug gap
settings for the
changes I'm made, removed the restrictor on the
boost
control, upgraded to 13G Turbos and changed the air
filter to
K&N.
Peter 92 TT 83K
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:12:23
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
> Are you guys sure about that (a
boost control solenoid change
> adding 20hp)? I would swear there was a
camshaft profile
> change in 1994 (along with 4 bolt main bearings, 6
speed, etc.).
Most of the HP came from more boost pressure. I don't
recall a cam profile
change, but increasing boost pressure from 9 psi to
12-13 could easily
result in the 20 HP being mentioned.
4-bolt &
6-speed won't change HP.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:17:25
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
The camshaft change (I thought this
occurred on the 95's) AFAIK was nothing
more that an increase in duration
which simply moved the power slightly
higher in the rpms. Correct me
here if somebody knows more......
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Chris Winkley [SMTP:cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com]
> Sent: Monday, March
11, 2002 1:10 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993
to 1994
>
> Folks...
>
> Are you guys sure about that
(a boost control solenoid change adding
> 20hp)? I would swear there was a
camshaft profile change in 1994 (along
> with 4 bolt main bearings, 6
speed, etc.).
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: menalteed
[mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:14
AM
> To: menalteed
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320
Hp 1993 to 1994
>
> >What was the change that they made to get
the 20hp
> difference. Would this be a natural and easy change to
>
make on the 92 TT. One other question, soon be
> starting up my new 13G's,
do I need to change the
> spark plug gap for the up graded
turbos.<
>
> Remove the restrictor ring from the input side of
the
> boost control solenoid.
>
> Thank you for that answer,
that was what I was hoping
> for, a simple fix to get more boost for my
new 13G
> turbos, I wonder if the car's with the 13G,s in Europe
>
have a different boost control solenoid then what we
> have here in
the States. Also would like to get a few
> more opinions on the spark plug
gap settings for the
> changes I'm made, removed the restrictor on the
boost
> control, upgraded to 13G Turbos and changed the air
> filter
to K&N.
>
> Peter 92 TT 83K
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:17:37
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on braking...
Okay, so I've got a few
more details about my mysterious noise problem.
First, a couple of basic
details I should have included in the first place:
I have stock ECS
shocks/struts (70k miles), with H&R sport springs. The
springs have
been on the car since I bought it over a year ago, but the
creaking is a
recent development.
After a little playing around in a parking lot, I
found a method to reliably
reproduce the noise. From a dead stop, I
drive in reverse to about 10 mph,
and then brake. This produces the
creak. I then go to 1st gear, drive to
about 10 mph, and brake.
Once again the mysterious creak is heard. The
creak will only happen on
the first braking in forward or reverse. So, once
I get the creak when
braking from forward motion, I won't hear it again no
matter how many times
or how hard I stop, until I brake from a reverse
motion. When I brake
forward again after I'll hear it again, and so on.
Rich - I tried
cleaning out the spring landings in front, but the noise
didn't go
away. They were really dirty - full of rocks and twigs and bird's
nests
and things. I did it when it was somewhat dark, so maybe I'll try
it
again when I've got a little more light to work in.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:47
PM
To: Geddes, Brian J; Team3S Mailing List (E-mail); Starnet Mailing
List
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on
braking...
Might be the front spring landing. Dirt gets up in there. It's
worse with
modded cars, because we don't have the rubber boot around the
spring any
more. Just take the weight off the car to drop the springs down
enough to
clean the landings.
Rich
At 03:34 PM 3/7/02 -0800,
Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>All -
>
>My VR-4's suspension is, for
lack of a better word, "creaking" when I
brake.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:29:34
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
Caps shows a cam change about mid 92, probably
about the time of the four
bolt change. The part number stayed the same after
that.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>
Folks...
>
> Are you guys sure about that (a boost control solenoid
change adding 20hp)? I would swear there was a camshaft profile change
in
1994 (along with 4 bolt main bearings, 6 speed, etc.).
>
>
Looking forward...Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:27:32
-0700
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: testpipe.com
Good morning all.
Quick question about the pieces
offered by Testpipe.com. They offer a 2.5"
and 2.25" pipe. Before I climb
around underneath my girl and try to measure
the pipe diameter, I figured I
would ask if anybody knows what it is on a 94
TT.
If it is 2.25", I don't
want to buy the 2.5" and risk the flow slowing down
and cooling when it
suddenly has more room. If it is 2.5", I don't wanna buy
the 2.25" for the
sudden restriction and turbulence.
Also, if anybody has comments and feedback
from buying from them and the
effects on the car as a result of
installation, I would appreciate that as
well.
Thank you very
much.
Excited about a $45 upgrade,
Zach Sauerman
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:59:46
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Possible product
Anyone interested in an LCD display that would
do the following:
During cruise (based on throttle position) display two
bargraphs of O2
voltage (one for each bank of cylinders), display RPM and
display boost
pressure/vacuum.
During TPS > 60% display exact O2
voltage for both O2 sensors accurate to
.001 volt, plus RPM, plus boost
pressure.
The display would be small enough that it would fit easily on
top of the
steering wheel shroud. It could also maybe have warning
LED's on it that
would light up at something like less than a certain voltage
of O2 above a
certain boost pressure or something like that.
I'm
building one for myself, just wondering if anyone else would
be
interested. I don't have the costs worked out yet, but it should be
under
$200.
There might be a possibility of datalogging those
parameters as well, but
I'd be working on the more basic version first.
It could also be built with
a vacuum-florescent display at higher cost
also. It might be a two-piece
unit where the display would just be
cabled to the master unit with a piece
of RJ-11 phone cable so you could
position it anywhere and it would take up
very little
space.
Interest? Comments?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:00:17
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
Complete head and timing train info
is available on my web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-headinfo.htmThe
cams changed for the *1993* model year (and all later models) to
have
slightly *less* lift; not that it matters.
As others have
mentioned, I doubt the cam, bearing, or gearing
changes affected the engine
power rating increase for *1994* and
later models. It was likely the boost
increase caused by removal of
the restricter in the lower nipple of the BC
solenoid.
See my year-old email below for factory specs.
So, is 1.3
psi boost good for 20 bhp?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: "Team
3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:15 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: What is stock boost
for a 95 VR-4?
I am always amazed at all the different numbers I hear
for "stock
boost levels" for the different years. ALL wastgeates on
stock
TD04-9B turbos are designed to open at approx. 6.8 psi pressure.
The
BC solenoid acts as a bleeder to raise the effective boost level.
The
service manuals state the following service specs for
"supercharging
pressure" (look in your Manual on CD from Vinny in the Intake
and
Exhaust section).
1st gen cars: 1991 3000GT manual p.
15-2. 8.7 psi
2nd gen
cars: 1992-1996 3000GT manual p. 15-2. 10
psi
Knowing Mitsu manuals, the pressure is probably stated at
other
levels/numbers in other manuals and that is where the confusion
comes
from. :)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Chris Winkley"
<
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 11, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to
1994
Caps shows a cam change about mid 92, probably about the time of
the
four bolt change. The part number stayed the same after
that.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>
Folks...
>
> Are you guys sure about that (a boost control solenoid
change
adding 20hp)? I would swear there was a camshaft profile change
in
1994 (along with 4 bolt main bearings, 6 speed, etc.).
>
>
Looking forward...Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:10:02
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Erik - Can you re-install the rubber tops to the
rear shock towers with
the Cusco rear strut tower bar in place? I
believe Chris' allows this.
I don't know about the RoadRace one but Jim
B. said they are not selling
them now? Is that right? Jim, can
you replace the rubber tops to the
shock towers?
I sent a not to Jim
F. about the pivot hinge in the bars and that they
most likely make either
one front strut tower bar or one front shock
tower circle thing and modify
the other piece. This allows them to make
hundred of thousands of shock
tower tops and only change the angle,
length, thickness, etc. of the bar
going across. Much cheaper in
manufacturing but also cheaper in design
and function I believe.
Remember that many of the big name shops are in
this for the money and
profit. Few companies actually make the product
for what it was
intended for or if they do then we can't afford it for our
cars.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002
12:53
> I have no idea why anyone would design a strut tower bar
with
> anything less than the maximum support between the strut
>
towers. Maybe for a lower selling price ?
How about
adjustability?
BTW, in response to Flash's question, yes, the (round)
Cusco rear strut
tower brace will allow storing the removable glass sunroof
in the stock
location with the brace installed.
Note: some of the
pictures are of my base model 3000GT (white), but
there
are also some
pictures of my VR-4 (black).
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/RearStrutBar.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#778
***************************************