Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, March 10
2002 Volume 01 : Number
777
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:38:59 -0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bleeding
brakes
Morning!!
Well, looks like I didn't get all the bubbles out of
my brakes last night,
so I'm off to try again. I read the tutorial on
the FAQ page about how to
bleed your brakes properly and now have a few
questions.
In the past I've always been taught to bleed my brakes in order of
the
longest run from the master cylinder to the shortest. This would
make the
order passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver
front. This is
not the order suggested in the tutorial I read. Is
there something
different about our brakes I need to know about?
Also, it
mentions bleeding a slave cylinder located on top of the tranny.
I assume
that this is the clutch slave. Is it necessary to bleed this
after
working on my brakes? I thought that the clutch's hydraulic
system operated
independently of the brakes. Do they have a common
reservoir that I don't
know about? Thanks!!
T.J. 1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 11:51:51
-0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Please Help
Hi Guys,
I'm sorry to bore you with an old
topic but I can't find the correct thread
or any form of detailed
instructions on gutting the front pre-cat.. I was
hoping to get it done
this weekend.. I have moderate mechanical experiance,
but I would
appreciate detailed instructions as I dont work under my car too
much..
I usually leave that to my mechanic.. Also, Could some of the
more
experienced guys let me know what worked the best for them as far as
what
tools they used to do the gutting.. I have a drill and a high
speed
roto-tool with a few attachments.. And will the Borla exhaust
make any
difference in accessing the pre-cat...
Thanks,
Scott 94
VR4
AVCR BC, Borla exhaust,Greedy S-Type BOV, K&N Fipk
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 11:54:32
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bleeding brakes
Morning, Thom. You should follow the
tutorial instead of "rules of
thumb" when it comes to our car and things such
as bleeding brakes. The
method in the tutorial is correct because you
must remember that our
cars have ABS and opposite corners are connected so in
the event of an
accident you will never lose both front brake lines or both
rear lines
but will have opposite corners are the very least. This
means that you
need to do passenger rear, driver front, driver rear,
passenger front
(you get the idea).
I always have to look it up but it
advises to do this with the car
running so the brake fluid will get through
the ABS system (which is not
running while the car is off). I think the
tutorial is meant to bleed
the fluid ending at the one closest to the ABS
brain. Then again, I
might have it wrong but the book is correct and
you should do them in
the cross-corner pattern.
You should also invest
the $7 in a set of SpeedBleeders
(
www.speedbleeder.com) as this saves a
world of time and beats the old
single-wrench-while-shouting-to-the-driver
method.
Another trick is to change the color of the brake fluid like the
ATE
Blue and the (I think) ATE Red (or whatever color they have). As
long
as they are compatible this will really show you when all the old
fluid
is out. If you wait long enough between brake bleeds then you
just look
for when the black turns clear and you are good. Some people
bleed out
in any order to get the majority of the bubbles and bad fluid and
*then*
follow the correct order and this initial step might get a little
more
of the old fluid out rather than only doing each corner once.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 and veteran brake bleeder
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Thomas Jeys
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002
11:39
Morning!!
Well, looks like I didn't get all the bubbles
out of my brakes
last night,
so I'm off to try again. I read the
tutorial on the FAQ page about how
to
bleed your brakes properly and now
have a few questions.
In the past I've always been taught to bleed my brakes
in order
of the
longest run from the master cylinder to the
shortest. This would make
the
order passenger rear, driver rear,
passenger front, driver front. This
is
not the order suggested in
the tutorial I read. Is there something
different about our brakes I
need to know about?
Also, it mentions bleeding a slave cylinder located on
top of
the tranny.
I assume that this is the clutch slave. Is it
necessary to bleed this
after
working on my brakes? I thought that
the clutch's hydraulic system
operated
independently of the brakes.
Do they have a common reservoir that I
don't
know about?
Thanks!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 12:46:20
-0500
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Emergency Brake handle front bolt sheared off....
Howdy all....The front
bolt of 2 that hold the brake handle down is sheared
away...from looking at
it it appears that the best fix will be a weld....the
rear metal is weak
also...I am thinking a nice juicy weld all around the
area...any thoughts?
Thanx
Marc
- --
Marc.Jaffe
JaffeMedia
Website_design&construction_graphics_photography_avid
Editor
http://www.marcjaffe.com
marc@marcjaffe.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 13:03:54
-0500
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
> (Do not
confuse this with the troublesome RPS "Turbo Carbon" for the
high-HP
>
guys).
Can you add some details here? Why do you call it
troublesome?
Alan
92 RT/TT 13g's soon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 10:09:26
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbos going bad?
What worked for me in checking the intercooler
is a
white coat hanger that I pulled stright, then
disconected the top Air
Hose and stuck the hanger in
and it came back soiled with oil, fairly easy
but
worth while. If you do have a lot of oil then you will
need to remove
the intercooler and clean it. Of course
you will need to also change the rear
turbo if it is
the cause.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 11:12:19
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Please Help
The front precat is a piece of cake --- just remove the two
bolts on each end
remove it from the car and hack away.
An electric
drill with a spade bit [ also called a flat bit ] is the easiest.
They're
about 6" long and come in sizes from 1/4" to about 2" ---- as I recall I
used
a 3/8" and about a 1". A vice is handy to hold the precat while you hack
away, I don't think you could hold it in your hand.
The rear precat [
by the firewall ] is tougher because you can't remove it, it has to
be done
in place. The process is the same but it's a mess, you get the material
all
over. You need long sleeve shirt, a broom, and good eye protection, I
used a
scuba mask and a balaclava. The broom is to keep the work area
clean --- every
time you move around that metal gets under the spot
you're laying..
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: Please Help
> Hi
Guys,
>
> I'm sorry to bore you with an old topic but I can't find
the correct thread
> or any form of detailed instructions on gutting the
front pre-cat.. I was
> hoping to get it done this weekend.. I
have moderate mechanical experiance,
> but I would appreciate detailed
instructions as I dont work under my car too
> much.. I usually
leave that to my mechanic.. Also, Could some of the more
>
experienced guys let me know what worked the best for them as far as
what
> tools they used to do the gutting.. I have a drill and a high
speed
> roto-tool with a few attachments.. And will the Borla
exhaust make any
> difference in accessing the pre-cat...
>
>
Thanks,
> Scott 94 VR4
> AVCR BC, Borla exhaust,Greedy S-Type BOV,
K&N Fipk
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 14:20:30
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: another injector question...
Well, I'm kinda maxing out my
stock injectors at 14psi... I've seen
upwards of 102%IDC (yeah,
impossible...), and I'm running kinda lean
(O2's around .86 to .92, usually
on the lower side). I figure a small
increase in injector size wouldn't
hurt :)
Of course I could just throw in a bigger pump, but why be
conventional??
;)
Joe
91 RT/TT black
"Philip V. Glazatov"
wrote:
>
> What's the problem with your car, Joe? Why do you need
"10% over" injectors?
>
> Philip
>
> At 10:29 PM
3/8/2002, Joe Kenwabikise wrote:
> >Hey all,
> >I recently saw
an add for a "10% over" injector set for Hondas, that a
> >stock ECU is
supposed to be able to handle. This got me thinking about
> >our
ECUs and if they can handle a slightly larger injector. This would
>
>be very helpful for me, as I'm on a tight budget, but need larger
>
>injectors. 10% over for us would be 396cc. Think the ECU could
hadle a
> >380cc, 390cc, or even 400cc without problems(well, besides
running
> >rich)?
> >
> >Joe
> >91 RT/TT
black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 14:59:33
-0600
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please Help
Even better is to get a test pipe so u can still keep
the precat handy
when it comes to E check. It's like $35 + $10 for shipping
from testpipe.com
Kar-Yeong
95 RT/TT
fastmax wrote:
> The
front precat is a piece of cake --- just remove the two bolts on each end
> remove it from the car and hack away.
>
> An electric
drill with a spade bit [ also called a flat bit ] is the easiest.
>
They're about 6" long and come in sizes from 1/4" to about 2" ---- as I recall
I
> used a 3/8" and about a 1". A vice is handy to hold the precat while
you hack
> away, I don't think you could hold it in your hand.
>
> The rear precat [ by the firewall ] is tougher because you can't remove
it, it has to
> be done in place. The process is the same but it's a mess,
you get the material all
> over. You need long sleeve shirt, a broom, and
good eye protection, I used a
> scuba mask and a balaclava. The broom is
to keep the work area clean --- every
> time you move around that
metal gets under the spot you're laying..
>
> Jim Berry
>
===================================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:51 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Please
Help
>
>>Hi Guys,
>>
>>I'm sorry to bore you
with an old topic but I can't find the correct thread
>>or any form of
detailed instructions on gutting the front pre-cat.. I
was
>>hoping to get it done this weekend.. I have moderate
mechanical experiance,
>>but I would appreciate detailed instructions
as I dont work under my car too
>>much.. I usually leave that to
my mechanic.. Also, Could some of the more
>>experienced guys let
me know what worked the best for them as far as what
>>tools they used
to do the gutting.. I have a drill and a high speed
>>roto-tool
with a few attachments.. And will the Borla exhaust make
any
>>difference in accessing the
pre-cat...
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Scott 94
VR4
>>AVCR BC, Borla exhaust,Greedy S-Type BOV, K&N
Fipk
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 14:11:58
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: another injector question...
What's the problem with your car,
Joe? Why do you need "10% over" injectors?
Philip
At 10:29 PM
3/8/2002, Joe Kenwabikise wrote:
>Hey all,
>I recently saw an add
for a "10% over" injector set for Hondas, that a
>stock ECU is supposed to
be able to handle. This got me thinking about
>our ECUs and if they
can handle a slightly larger injector. This would
>be very helpful
for me, as I'm on a tight budget, but need larger
>injectors. 10%
over for us would be 396cc. Think the ECU could hadle a
>380cc,
390cc, or even 400cc without problems(well, besides
running
>rich)?
>
>Joe
>91 RT/TT black
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 13:04:43
-0800
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please Help
For pre-cat removal - here's another tip. I
twist-tied the shop vac hose
towards the opening of the rear pre-cat.
This worked great because as I
drilled out the material - it was sucked away
by the shop vac and less ended
up on mea and the floor. I wish I had
done this earlier, but figured this
out about 1/2 way through the job.
Works great and less mess to clean up!
Rich Fowler
>> Hi
Guys,
>>
>> I'm sorry to bore you with an old topic but I
can't find the correct thread
>> or any form of detailed instructions
on gutting the front pre-cat.. I was
>> hoping to get it done
this weekend.. I have moderate mechanical experiance,
>> but I
would appreciate detailed instructions as I dont work under my car
too
>> much.. I usually leave that to my mechanic.. Also,
Could some of the more
>> experienced guys let me know what worked the
best for them as far as what
>> tools they used to do the
gutting.. I have a drill and a high speed
>> roto-tool with a few
attachments.. And will the Borla exhaust make any
>> difference
in accessing the pre-cat...
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
94 VR4
>> AVCR BC, Borla exhaust,Greedy S-Type BOV, K&N
Fipk
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 13:21:42
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Please Help
Test pipe is usually for the main cat although you could make
a pipe for
the front
precat.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Kar-Yeong Teoh" <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
> Even
better is to get a test pipe so u can still keep the precat handy
> when
it comes to E check. It's like $35 + $10 for shipping from testpipe.com
>
> Kar-Yeong
> 95 RT/TT
>
> fastmax wrote:
> >
The front precat is a piece of cake --- just remove the two bolts on each end
> > remove it from the car and hack away.
> >
> >
An electric drill with a spade bit [ also called a flat bit ] is the
easiest.
> > They're about 6" long and come in sizes from 1/4" to about
2" ---- as I recall I
> > used a 3/8" and about a 1". A vice is handy
to hold the precat while you hack
> > away, I don't think you could
hold it in your hand.
> >
> > The rear precat [ by the
firewall ] is tougher because you can't remove it, it has to
> > be
done in place. The process is the same but it's a mess, you get the material
all
> > over. You need long sleeve shirt, a broom, and good eye
protection, I used a
> > scuba mask and a balaclava. The broom is to
keep the work area clean --- every
> > time you move around that
metal gets under the spot you're laying..
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
===================================================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 14:34:20
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel high pressure line.
OK! Anyone ever here of the Movie a
Bridge to far,
well I did one thing more then was needed and now
have
myself in a bad situation, and need help now! Prior to
reinstaling
all the IC pipes and while the battery was
out I thought I would change the
fuel filter as long
as it was open and easy to get to. Well the
bottom
bolt wouldn't budge so I decited to losen the high
pressure
line
at the fitting just before it enters the fuel
filter. I thoght I was doing
fine but then noticed
that rater then the fitting turning I turned the
fuel
line
because the fittings was rusted solid and still is.
Now it
looks like a option to replacing the fuel line
all the way back to the tank,
a bummer, napa has a
fitting
that will change the last 12 inches to the
fitting
with a high pressure fuel hose rated to 75LB, I just
wonder if
this would work using two on on the fuel
line with the high pressure rubber
fexible fuel line
to bridge the gap from where I will have to cut the
fuel
line and the fitting. I have a first generation
Stealth and don't realy know
if this type of set up
would hold the pressure from the stock fuel pump
but
sure hope so. I would like this to work for some time
and not worry
about a gas leak. The other option is
cuting the fuel line back some and
puting a fittings
on by using a flange and a new fitting then using
a
fexible high pressure hose rated for GAS. Quick I need
some thoughts. My
car needs to get back on the road.
peter TT 92 Stealth
13G's K$M
filter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:31:42
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brakes... bigger than Big Reds
Erik, they will fit the
17" 2G crome wheels but rub along the spokes (a
little bit) to run them
you would just need to get a 5MM spacer everyhting
else fits fine and yes
they clear the calipers.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross,
Erik
Sent: Fri 3/8/2002 6:48 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List
(E-mail)
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Brakes... bigger than Big Reds
So
as far as the options we have to go with larger brakes than the "Big
Red/Stock Cryo Rotors" option...
Do these require 18" wheels?
Or will the '94 VR-4 (and 95/96 VR-4 Spyder)
17" wheels work with any of
this stuff? "This stuff" would be AP 6-pot
calipers, Stillen's Big
Brake Kit, Supra rotors, other larger rotors, etc.
AP Racing has the a
kit listed for our cars:
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/dataselect.asp<
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/dataselect.asp>
with a 356mmx32mm (14"x1.26") rotor and their CP5555 6-pot
caliper.
Wow, that'd be cool. I'm guessing there's no way that'd
fit with stock 17"
(2G) wheels... somebody tell me I'm wrong...
please! :-)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with '94 VR-4 track wheels and in need
of better brakes
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:47:57
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help me please, broke bleeder screw
Whille we are on this thread,
I broke the Left rear bleeder screw (shut
thank god) There is about 1/8 inch
of the screw sticking out above the
mounting point. Now I just ordered
the speed bleeders (this 2 person s***
is for the birds) how ever, I need
suggestions on how to get that damn screw
out when my bleeders
arrive.
I swear, evertime I work on thsi car something else breaks,
I bust myself
up, or friggin both
Russ F
CT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Sat 3/9/2002
11:54 AM
To: 'Team 3s'
Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bleeding
brakes
Morning, Thom. You should follow the tutorial instead of
"rules of
thumb" when it comes to our car and things such as bleeding
brakes. The
method in the tutorial is correct because you must
remember that our
cars have ABS and opposite corners are connected so in the
event of an
accident you will never lose both front brake lines or both rear
lines
but will have opposite corners are the very least. This means
that you
need to do passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger
front
(you get the idea).
I always have to look it up but it advises
to do this with the car
running so the brake fluid will get through the ABS
system (which is not
running while the car is off). I think the
tutorial is meant to bleed
the fluid ending at the one closest to the ABS
brain. Then again, I
might have it wrong but the book is correct and
you should do them in
the cross-corner pattern.
You should also
invest the $7 in a set of SpeedBleeders
(
www.speedbleeder.com) as this saves a
world of time and beats the old
single-wrench-while-shouting-to-the-driver
method.
Another trick is to change the color of the brake fluid like the
ATE
Blue and the (I think) ATE Red (or whatever color they have). As
long
as they are compatible this will really show you when all the old fluid
is out. If you wait long enough between brake bleeds then you just
look
for when the black turns clear and you are good. Some people
bleed out
in any order to get the majority of the bubbles and bad fluid and
*then*
follow the correct order and this initial step might get a little
more
of the old fluid out rather than only doing each corner once.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 and veteran brake bleeder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 14:59:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
turbos still good, now what?
Ok I went out and checked the driver's side
intercooler and there was
nothing more than a film in it. What else
could it be? Maybe the
wastegates or at least the back one is out. How can I
tell? If they
do need replaced, do the 9B and 13G use the same wastegate?
Thanks, Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 16:12:23
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Corbeau Seats
I finally went to mount my sliders to my seats, and
they don't fit.
I first attached the sliders to the seats, and then went to
attach them to
the bases.
The mounting holes on the bases are about 4"
wider than the sliders are
when attached to the seats.
The mounting kit
came with 2 bases, and 4 sliders (no instructions, what
else is new).
Am
i missing some parts, or some brain cells?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 15:48:00
-0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
Okay, I'm looking at installing the Sparco
Milanos. Has anyone
installed these or does anyone have a clue on which
brackets and stuff I
need along with what do I need for the four-point
harnesses? Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 16:25:13
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Bleeder screw
Russ,
yea that's a bummer. 1/8" maybe enough for a
vice grip, heat the opposite
area.
the other way would be to insert a four
flouted screw extractor.
the last resort would be to drill it out to a tap
hole 1/4"x28. some times
this releases the pressure and the threaded piece
unscrews.
good luck
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 19:27:32
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: another injector question...
You used that funky formula to
figure out the duty cycles. I am not sure if
it is a real problem to have
IDC >100%. Do you see any other symptoms with
your data
logger?
Bigger injectors will bring your O2 readings up, but they will
not change
the duty cycles. A bigger pump will not make any difference if
you keep the
stock fuel pressure regulator. If you want to be original, get
a fuel
pressure regulator. It is much cheaper than the injectors. You might
still
need a bigger pump though if you see lean readings at high RPM and
WOT.
Philip
At 02:20 PM 3/9/2002, Joe Kenwabikise
wrote:
>Well, I'm kinda maxing out my stock injectors at 14psi...
I've seen
>upwards of 102%IDC (yeah, impossible...), and I'm running kinda
lean
>(O2's around .86 to .92, usually on the lower side). I figure
a small
>increase in injector size wouldn't hurt :)
>Of course I
could just throw in a bigger pump, but why be
conventional??
>;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 19:02:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: another injector question...
> Well, I'm kinda maxing out
my stock injectors at 14psi...
> I've seen upwards of 102%IDC
(yeah, impossible...), and I'm
> running kinda lean (O2's around .86 to
.92, usually on the
> lower side). I figure a small increase in
injector size
> wouldn't hurt :)
> Of course I could just
throw in a bigger pump, but why be
> conventional??
> ;)
Why
be conventional? Because the stock pump runs out of steam when
you
increase the boost. Bigger injectors won't help if the pump can't
supply
what you need. On stock turbos I could routinely run 17-19 psi
on the stock
injectors with the Supra pump, where the stock pump would go
lean at high
RPM.
There's nothing wrong with being unconventional, but
you have to solve the
actual problems causing your symptoms. Another
way you could possibly solve
it would be to install a fuel pump wiring
upgrade. Dynamic Racing has a kit
for $80. That might* be enough
to let you slide by on the stock pump.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 19:16:35
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: another injector question...
> A bigger pump will not make
any difference
> if you keep the stock fuel pressure regulator.
>
If you want to be original, get a fuel
> pressure regulator. It is much
cheaper than the
> injectors.
I'm confused. How will a pump
that flows more fuel not make any difference?
If his pump can't supply as
much fuel as needed at the fuel pressure the
regulator is asking for then how
is a different regulator going to help?
Stock pump flows about 120 lph at
58 psi (15 psi boost) and 12.0v of input
power. If you can boost the
power to 13.5v then you'll get 140 lph out of
it (according to Jeff Lucius'
numbers).
360cc injectors @ 100% IDC flow 130 lph. So essentially,
the stock
injectors already outflow the stock fuel pump when driven to their
maximum
flow. Bigger injectors isn't the complete answer at that
point. Neither is
raising the fuel pressure with an adjustable
regulator as that causes the
stock pump to flow an even lower volume of
fuel.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:32:04
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
> > (Do not
confuse this with the troublesome RPS "Turbo Carbon" for the
>
high-HP
> > guys).
> Can you add some details here? Why do you
call it troublesome?
> Alan
> 92 RT/TT 13g's soon
-
--------------------------->
When RPS released the Turbo Carbon combo
(carbon/kevlar) clutch 2 years ago,
it was premature. Lots of members
bought them and were in a battle for
months with RPS over getting them
replaced, (notably Brad Bedell). Go to
the Team3S Search Page
www.Team3S.com/Search.htm and
enter Turbo Carbon
+clutch and read some of the
archives of what people went through. I
don't know the current status,
but a lot of people soured on RPS after that.
AFAIK, they are OK now, since
no one has complained lately. JackT got one
of the later ones and he
loves it, but I think it was the next model up
after the TC.
Released
at the same time was the "Carbon Claw" for the NT's. I got one and
I've
never been happier...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 22:05:21
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Thats precisely why I am asking. My friend
has a GTP and his strut brace
looks like the Cusco rear brace on our cars
with moveable end joints.
Another friend has a T/A, and his bar is made this
way also. Also, many of
the cars in magazines have strut bars that are
not solid all the way across.
My question is why not? Is there a
reason, the two towers typically are not
just bolted together?
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: 'Sam
Shelat' <
sshelat@erols.com>;
dschilberg@pobox.com<
dschilberg@pobox.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
'NETM1NDER@aol.com' <
NETM1NDER@aol.com>
Date: Friday, March
08, 2002 10:55 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>Sam,
>
> The TEC strut bar does not have any
"hinges".
> It is a solid piece of metal, no give.
> It even has
gussets welded into the bends to prevent any flex.
>
>
www.tecperformance.com (I
think)
>
>Jim
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Sam Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
>Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:40
AM
>To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar
>
>One question I have is this. Of
every strut bar for every car I have seen,
>about 1/2 dozen different
types, the bars have a link right after the strut
>circle attached to the
bar going across the motor. It seems like these
bars
>could have
been designed cheaper w/o the "hinged" connection here. I
>suppose
this is done to let both sides of the car to rise and fall
>separately
while maintaining the orientation of the strut towers
>horizontally.
Why would it be better to just bolt the two towers together
>for a
street/strip car? If this is indeed better, then why don't the
big
>name comapnies make them this
way?
>
>Sam
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Darren
Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 8:25 AM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>
>>Not to put down Todd's choice in front strut tower bars
but check out
>>www.tecperformance.com as well. I know Chris
personally and he has
>>engineered things amazingly (knowing the bends,
welds, etc. all affect
>>stiffness). He can answer any questions
you may have but read his page
>>first before asking something that is
already cleared up.
>>
>>--Flash!
>>1995 VR-4 and
tested both his bars for the list
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: Todd D.Shelton
>>Sent: Thursday, March
07, 2002 00:55
>>
>>Brad, I got my front strut bar from Chris
:
Supermacnum1@aol.com>>Mine
was $115 shipped :
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/motor1.jpg>>Smaller
pic:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/motor1_s.jpg>>
>>He
also makes a double bar for just a little more and
>>he builds rear
strut bars at reasonable prices too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:03:01
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
To everyone installing or thinking of
installing race seats ...
I have not purchased or seen aftermarket
brackets so I can't comment if
they fit our cars or not. I doubt they
will. The floor where the
driver's and passenger's seat sits is not
flat (I think the contour
slopes up toward the centerline of the car and
there is about a one inch
ridge about halfway between the front of the seat
mounting bolt holes
and the rear ones).
A friend made a custom
mounting bracket for my Sparco Evo race seat that
aligns to the stock
driver's seat mounting location and has holes
drilled in it for the Sparco
brackets (L brackets) to attach to. I
imagine most Momo, Sparco,
Corbeau, etc. seats have similar layouts.
Contact me privately if you want
these dimensions. I don't have one for
the passenger side but will
gander that it is very close to the driver's
side dimensions. The
bracket is more like a trapezoid.
I think Mikael Akenson built a mounting
bracket out of a solid piece of
metal that was formed to the shape of the
floor. We used four pieces of
2" x 1/4" steel strip fastened with a TIG
welder (friends with tools are
fun sometimes). After a few trial fits
we had a winning situation. The
anti-sub belt for the harness is even
welded to the center of the rear
part of the bracket. Great
layout.
Only use Grade 8 (English) or Grade 8.8 (Metric) hardware when
attaching
the seat brackets to any mounting bracket and then you can use the
stock
seat mounting bolts to attach the seat bracket to the floor. This
is
when the Dremel comes in handy to custom-shape certain areas to
fit
nicely.
I have some pics but now that the seat is not in the car I
can take some
better ones with dimensions. Let me know how I can
help.
Stock second gen power driver's seat = 60# (bathroom
scale)
Stock second gen passenger's seat = 40# (bathroom
scale)
Remember that the driver's seat takes the stock seatbelt mounting
point
with it and has some harnesses plugged in the bottom. Have a
friend
help or just get ready to wrestle with the seat while disconnecting
the
plugs. Once you get in there you will see how it all fits. DO
NOT
scrape up the threads on the front studs of the seats or you will
need
to cut them again (trust me -- I know). The rear mounting points
use a
bolt instead of a nut so there is no chance of stripping threads in
the
back mounting points.
Lots more info but needed to give some
heads-up to a few major steps
involved. Don't forget that you lose your
seatbelt unless you put in a
new one, junkyard one, maybe a DSM one, or
salvage the old one and put
it on the seat or the center console/tunnel
area.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, Sparco Evo race seat and Simpson 5-pt
harness when track
prepped
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Bradford J. Gay
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 18:48
Okay, I'm
looking at installing the Sparco Milanos. Has anyone
installed these or
does anyone have a clue on which brackets and stuff I
need along with what do
I need for the four-point harnesses? Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 22:16:18
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
When I ordered the seats for our VR4
(which Wayne now has) they showed the
right brackets..and thats what he
has. The box sat unopened for a year.
Thats all I know..
On
Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
> To everyone installing or
thinking of installing race seats ...
>
> I have not purchased or
seen aftermarket brackets so I can't comment if
> they fit our cars or
not. I doubt they will. The floor where the
> driver's and
passenger's seat sits is not flat (I think the contour
> slopes up toward
the centerline of the car and there is about a one inch
> ridge about
halfway between the front of the seat mounting bolt holes
> and the rear
ones).
>
> A friend made a custom mounting bracket for my Sparco
Evo race seat that
> aligns to the stock driver's seat mounting location
and has holes
> drilled in it for the Sparco brackets (L brackets) to
attach to. I
> imagine most Momo, Sparco, Corbeau, etc. seats have
similar layouts.
> Contact me privately if you want these
dimensions. I don't have one for
> the passenger side but will
gander that it is very close to the driver's
> side dimensions. The
bracket is more like a trapezoid.
>
> I think Mikael Akenson built
a mounting bracket out of a solid piece of
> metal that was formed to the
shape of the floor. We used four pieces of
> 2" x 1/4" steel strip
fastened with a TIG welder (friends with tools are
> fun sometimes).
After a few trial fits we had a winning situation. The
> anti-sub
belt for the harness is even welded to the center of the rear
> part of
the bracket. Great layout.
>
> Only use Grade 8 (English) or
Grade 8.8 (Metric) hardware when attaching
> the seat brackets to any
mounting bracket and then you can use the stock
> seat mounting bolts to
attach the seat bracket to the floor. This is
> when the Dremel
comes in handy to custom-shape certain areas to fit
> nicely.
>
> I have some pics but now that the seat is not in the car I can take
some
> better ones with dimensions. Let me know how I can
help.
>
> Stock second gen power driver's seat = 60# (bathroom
scale)
> Stock second gen passenger's seat = 40# (bathroom scale)
>
> Remember that the driver's seat takes the stock seatbelt mounting
point
> with it and has some harnesses plugged in the bottom. Have a
friend
> help or just get ready to wrestle with the seat while
disconnecting the
> plugs. Once you get in there you will see how it
all fits. DO NOT
> scrape up the threads on the front studs of the
seats or you will need
> to cut them again (trust me -- I know). The
rear mounting points use a
> bolt instead of a nut so there is no chance
of stripping threads in the
> back mounting points.
>
> Lots
more info but needed to give some heads-up to a few major steps
>
involved. Don't forget that you lose your seatbelt unless you put in
a
> new one, junkyard one, maybe a DSM one, or salvage the old one and
put
> it on the seat or the center console/tunnel area.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4, Sparco Evo race seat and Simpson 5-pt harness when
track
> prepped
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:12:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
If you look at the pictures of the rear strut
tower bar from TEC
Performance you will see that it is adjustable (or at
least to add some
initial stiffness or a pre-load) and the only way that it
can move up
and down is if the two L-shaped plates (that are shown
back-to-back and
tack welded) move up and down in relation to each
other. Obviously when
it is tack welded then they can not move.
This is the setup for the
manual sunroof so when it is stowed in the trunk
the "shoulder" on which
you put the sunroof is still there.
I have a
power sunroof so I only need one L-shaped bracket here. That
was part
of the experimentation to see if his design also worked for the
95-1/2 and
later models. Well it does. Am I to assume the Cusco,
RoadRace
Engineering, etc. bars are out of the way enough to allow
storage of the
sunroof when removed? Can someone clarify this?
So I don't know why
some bars have that hinge that allow it to go up and
down for the rear (or
the front). I was under the impression that you
wanted the tops of the
strut towers to remain more or less rigid or at
least the same distance from
each other to maintain the alignment.
On a linked page from Chris'
site,
http://e30m3performance.com/myths/Strutbar_Theory/strut_bar_theory.htm,
it
states, "For this calculation only horizontal forces need
be
considered. There are of course vertical forces, but since the sum
of
forces must independently equal zero in both the horizontal and
vertical
directions, we can concentrate on just the horizontal forces in
this
analysis."
Well this does make sense I guess since if the left
rear strut tower
moves up then the right rear tower will move down (solid
suspension) or
might not move (independent suspension). If it moves up
at the same
distance then essentially the delta D (change in distance) is
zero. The
only place I can think where the one strut tower is more than
a marginal
distance away vertically is if you "use all of the track" and
drive up
on the gators or curbing of a track that is about 2" - 4" higher
than
the road surface. Then the car will stay rigid and probably bounce
a
little harder up into the air like the professional cars do.
Just a
guess. Anyone else?
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Saturday,
March 09, 2002 17:05
Thats precisely why I am asking. My
friend has a GTP and his strut
brace
looks like the Cusco rear brace on
our cars with moveable end joints.
Another friend has a T/A, and his bar is
made this way also. Also, many
of
the cars in magazines have strut
bars that are not solid all the way
across.
My question is why not?
Is there a reason, the two towers typically are
not
just bolted
together?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:17:20
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brakes... bigger than Big Reds
I think the "rubbing the
inside of the spokes" has to do with the amount
away from the hub the caliper
is mounted. If you take your transition
piece and grind off 1/8" of
material (making sure to tap the drilled
holes obviously) then there should
be no rubbing. This might mean that
the rotor is not perfectly centered
in the caliper but I think we are
talking just 1 mm or 2 mm at the
most. I haven't tried a second gen 17"
wheel but I don't think 5 mm is
needed to remedy the problem.
However, spacing out the front tires WILL
help in handling. Might be
twitchy but dag nubbit it WILL turn with
more snap (AutoX style). I
don't know how much spacing makes what
results but I think 5 mm is small
enough to work and large enough to give
some added response.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/Big Reds and 1997-99 SL
17" wheels for track use
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman,
Russell
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 17:32
Erik, they will fit
the 17" 2G crome wheels but rub along the spokes (a
little bit) to run
them you would just need to get a 5MM spacer
everyhting
else fits fine and
yes they clear the calipers.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gross, Erik
Sent: Fri 3/8/2002 6:48 PM
So as far as the options we
have to go with larger brakes than the "Big
Red/Stock Cryo Rotors" option...
Do these require 18" wheels? Or will the '94 VR-4 (and 95/96
VR-4
Spyder)
17" wheels work with any of this stuff? "This stuff"
would be AP 6-pot
calipers, Stillen's Big Brake Kit, Supra rotors, other
larger rotors,
etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:25:54
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
Well when I ordered the Sparco Evo seats
they sent those L-shaped
brackets but because the front of the floor is
higher than the rear --
there was no possible way to get the seat to
fit. Like Brad said, there
is a spacing issue from the stock mounting
points to the L-shaped seat
brackets. I think the race seat is narrower
than the stock seat (in
terms of mounting brackets).
Again -- I have
pics somewhere but here is with the stock seat removed.
(I have the full-size
pics if you are interested in seeing more detail.)
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/CapeCod2001/images/IMG_1588.jpg
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/CapeCod2001/images/IMG_1589.jpg
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/CapeCod2001/images/IMG_1590.jpg
And
I forgot to mention that the "street" seats (the ones that recline)
are
usually not allowed for the HPDE or track events so think about that
if you
are wanting to do some driver's ed stuff. Beats me why.
Your
stock seat reclines but this is allowed. Oh well. Maybe it
is only for
certain places. Just check ahead before you have to sell a
seat you got
a great deal on.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002
01:16
When I ordered the seats for our VR4 (which Wayne now has)
they showed
the
right brackets..and thats what he has. The box sat
unopened for a year.
Thats all I know..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:01:34
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Sam,
I have no idea why anyone would
design a strut tower bar with
anything less than the maximum support between
the strut towers. Maybe for a
lower selling price ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Saturday,
March 09, 2002 3:05 PM
To: Floyd, Jim;
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Front Strut Bar
Thats precisely why I am asking. My friend has a
GTP and his strut brace
looks like the Cusco rear brace on our cars with
moveable end joints.
Another friend has a T/A, and his bar is made this way
also. Also, many of
the cars in magazines have strut bars that are not
solid all the way across.
My question is why not? Is there a reason,
the two towers typically are not
just bolted together?
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: 'Sam
Shelat' <
sshelat@erols.com>;
dschilberg@pobox.com<
dschilberg@pobox.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
'NETM1NDER@aol.com' <
NETM1NDER@aol.com>
Date: Friday, March
08, 2002 10:55 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>Sam,
>
>
> The TEC strut bar does not have
any "hinges".
> It is a solid piece of metal, no give.
> It even has
gussets welded into the bends to prevent any flex.
>
>
www.tecperformance.com (I
think)
>
>Jim
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Sam Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
>Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:40
AM
>To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar
>
>One question I have is this. Of
every strut bar for every car I have seen,
>about 1/2 dozen different
types, the bars have a link right after the strut
>circle attached to the
bar going across the motor. It seems like these
bars
>could have
been designed cheaper w/o the "hinged" connection here. I
>suppose
this is done to let both sides of the car to rise and fall
>separately
while maintaining the orientation of the strut towers
>horizontally.
Why would it be better to just bolt the two towers together
>for a
street/strip car? If this is indeed better, then why don't the
big
>name comapnies make them this
way?
>
>Sam
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Darren
Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 8:25 AM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>
>>Not to put down Todd's choice in front strut tower bars
but check out
>>www.tecperformance.com as well. I know Chris
personally and he has
>>engineered things amazingly (knowing the bends,
welds, etc. all affect
>>stiffness). He can answer any questions
you may have but read his page
>>first before asking something that is
already cleared up.
>>
>>--Flash!
>>1995 VR-4 and
tested both his bars for the list
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: Todd D.Shelton
>>Sent: Thursday, March
07, 2002 00:55
>>
>>Brad, I got my front strut bar from Chris
:
Supermacnum1@aol.com>>Mine
was $115 shipped :
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/motor1.jpg>>Smaller
pic:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/motor1_s.jpg>>
>>He
also makes a double bar for just a little more and
>>he builds rear
strut bars at reasonable prices too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 02:44:43
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: another injector question...
At 08:16 PM 3/9/2002, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
> > A bigger pump will not make any difference
> > if
you keep the stock fuel pressure regulator.
> > If you want to be
original, get a fuel
> > pressure regulator. It is much cheaper than
the
> > injectors.
>
>I'm confused. How will a pump
that flows more fuel not make any difference?
>If his pump can't supply as
much fuel as needed at the fuel pressure the
>regulator is asking for then
how is a different regulator going to help?
Matt, if you know for sure
that the stock pump could starve the injectors
at 15 psi of boost, than the
stock pump could be the problem. Joe has a '91
and his pump is probably not
that new anymore.
However, if this is not the pump, but simply the
injectors, or the MAF, or
the ECU that does not know how much fuel to put
in, then installing a
bigger pump won't change anything. The stock fuel
pressure regulator will
make sure that all the extra gas will go back to the
gas tank.
Joe, you need to analyze your data logs. If the O2 voltage
becomes low only
at high RPM, then this is the pump. If you want, I could
let you try my
Supra pump. I am not planning on installing it for another
week or two.
You could also buy a fuel pressure gauge. Not that many
people have those -
you'll be pretty unconventional! ;-)
I thought a
fuel pressure regulator would be a good way to richen out the
mixture
without having to buy bigger injectors and an A/F controller.
Still, the
only way to reduce the duty cycles in the open-loop mode at WOT
is to fool
the ECU with an A/F controller.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 00:06:42
+1100
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost
just need some info about standard boost. just installed a
boost gauge and
max boost i get is 6psi, what is standard boost for 91 model?
also could
there be a problem with one of my turbo's.
need advice, thanks
in advance.
Joel Singh.
Australia.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 07:47:48
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
The bases fit in the car fine. They are
shaped to fit the height
differences explained by Darren. They even have
built in mounting locations
for the seat belt similar to the stock
seats.
The problem is mounting the bases to the sliders. I contacted
Corbeau, and
they said i'm missing some parts. I need to call them tomorrow,
and
hopefully they will send the missing parts for
free.
Wayne
At 10:16 PM 3/9/02 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>When I ordered the seats for our VR4 (which Wayne now has) they
showed the
>right brackets..and thats what he has. The box sat
unopened for a year.
>
>Thats all I
know..
>
>---
>Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:37:13
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
I have Corbeau GTS-II seats & had no
problem installing them with the
bracketry that Corbeau provided. The stock
seat belt latches bolted to the
brackets and I was able to use all the stock
mounting hardware.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4, Bone stock down to the filter
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 10, 2002 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speaking of
Seats...
> The bases fit in the car fine. They are shaped to fit the
height
> differences explained by Darren. They even have built in
mounting
locations
> for the seat belt similar to the stock
seats.
>
> The problem is mounting the bases to the sliders. I
contacted Corbeau, and
> they said i'm missing some parts. I need to call
them tomorrow, and
> hopefully they will send the missing parts for
free.
>
> Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:03:53
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
Fantastic, Wayne and Trevor. It sounds
like the missing parts that
Wayne had was the hang-up and it sounds like it
will be a perfect fit
when finished.
Question: How are you guys
attaching the seat belt latch to the seat?
My stock seat belt buckle (the
part that receives the tongue of the seat
belt) is bolted to the seat.
When I unbolt this from the seat I have a
wire attached that tells the
instrument cluster to illuminate the seat
belt light so it knows when my seat
belt is clicked in there. I believe
I took off the plastic cover on the
inside of the seat belt receiver and
the wires are injection molded or stuck
on with some hot melt glue and
not with a bolt or a screw.
Or are
people just buying a new seat belt receiver or getting one from a
junkyard
3/S or DSM?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Wayne
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002
09:48
The bases fit in the car fine. They are shaped to fit the
height
differences explained by Darren. They even have built in
mounting
locations
for the seat belt similar to the stock
seats.
The problem is mounting the bases to the sliders. I contacted
Corbeau,
and
they said i'm missing some parts. I need to call them
tomorrow, and
hopefully they will send the missing parts for
free.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:25:44
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speaking of Seats...
I'm using 5-point harnesses and removing
light bulbs and buzzers....
I was pleased to see that the corbeau bracket had
a place to mount the
center console side of the seat belt. It saves me some
time rigging a mount
on the car body. I'll use the same mounting location on
the other side, and
attach the 2 shoulder straps to the roll
cage.
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#777
***************************************
