Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, February 23 2002
Volume 01 : Number
762
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:48:30 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BAFMOC - cooler size ?
What is the size of our stock oil cooler
?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne
[mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:42 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: BAFMOC
Man, i just had to sit there and grit my teeth all day
at work (i can
receive mail, but can't send on my personal acct)
I
see a couple people have chimed in now about the coolant.
If a car is running
hot, coolant system upgrades are the first thing that
come to mind, not oil.
Aluminum radiators with low temp fan switches do
amazing things.
On
the oil cooler side of things, i too am in the process of installing a
front
mount oil cooler. I already have the one I'm going to use. It's out
of a 86
RX-7 Turbo II. RX-7's came stock with very nice oil coolers because
of the
hot running rotary engine. I picked mine up for 10 bucks at a
junk
yard.
It measures 23"w x 5"h x 2" thick. It's also aluminum, so
everybody will be
laughing at me saying "look at that idiot with the
miniature FMIC"
Little do they
know............
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:44:57
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BAFMOC
Send us photos when you get it in.
I am with child
waiting to hear how it works.
If my junkyard has a $10 oil cooler laying
around, I think I'll get one just in case,.
Rich
>On the oil cooler
side of things, i too am in the process of installing a
>front mount oil
cooler. I already have the one I'm going to use. It's out
>of a 86 RX-7
Turbo II. RX-7's came stock with very nice oil coolers because
>of the
hot running rotary engine. I picked mine up for 10 bucks at a junk
yard.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 15:59:54
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BAFMOC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
When speaking of overheating we all speak of the water get boiled and
not
> overheating the oil right ?
correct --- most people don't
even have an oil temp gauge although I'll probably
add one to my
setup.
========================================================
>
> If you're going to make a fix then fix the water not the oil --- there
are
> > aluminum aftermarket radiators that will fit, or at least I've
seen posts
> > that claim it's true.
>
> I fully agree !
Hmm, if one of our cars is experiencing cooling problems
> then I'd point
to the water pump not working well at first. Then a clogged
> up radiator
or cooling paths can be another cause.
Rich has tried a batch of things,
including [ I think ] water wetter, radiator and
block flushes and even a new
pump at the 60K. I think his car hates him for
living in Kansas. Hell the
only one I know of that liked Kansas was Dorothy in
the Wizard of
OZ.
========================================================
> >
Rich ---- I still contend they you're missing some of the undertrays
>
> that direct air up into the radiator from below. I didn't take
any
> No, my car is fully closed and this is a must ! Otherwise fresh
air could go
> down away from the radiator.
My car, a 93 Stealth
TT most definitely has a rectangular opening and panels
to deflect air below
and just to the front of the
radiator.
======================================================
> I
know that Luis Miguel from Spain has reported high oil temperatures in
>
traffic. He installed two large PC fans (from Papst, Germany) behind
it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:02:47
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BAFMOC - cooler size ?
Probably 6 x8 x1 --- it's been a while but that's
fairly close.
It's also thermostatically controlled.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 3:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: BAFMOC - cooler size
?
> What is the size of our stock oil cooler ?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:04:52
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BAFMOC
What kind of cooling problem are you having --- do you race your
car ???
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
> On
the oil cooler side of things, i too am in the process of installing a
>
front mount oil cooler. I already have the one I'm going to use. It's out
> of a 86 RX-7 Turbo II. RX-7's came stock with very nice oil coolers
because
> of the hot running rotary engine. I picked mine up for 10 bucks
at a junk yard.
>
> It measures 23"w x 5"h x 2" thick. It's also
aluminum, so everybody will be
> laughing at me saying "look at that
idiot with the miniature FMIC"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:08:28
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BAFMOC
Ah come on, don't be a cheap ass --- buy one of these aluminum
dual pass
radiators with the killer fans on it and give us a report on how it
works.
Jim
Berry inquiring minds want to
know !!!
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; "'Team
3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: BAFMOC
>
>Rich ---- I still contend they you're missing some of the undertrays
>
>that direct air up into the radiator from below. I didn't take any
pictures
> >as I said I would but there should be an opening just in
front of the
> >radiator on the bottom of the car that allows air up
into the radiator.
>
> I have had overheating problems from day one,
from the time it was completely stock with all undertrays in place to today,
with
all of them gone.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:00:29
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Max boost with upgraded fuel/stock turbos?
Coils? spark
amplifiers? I'm not getting this, we seem to be loosing touch
with
keeping it simple. Save your money for lighter seats.
Ignition
systems, cat backs, BOV's, and turbo timers are neat to have, but
(in my
case), totally unnessesary. I'm in total agreement with Roger on
the
diagnostics i.e. Pocketlogger. Additionally, an EGT is critical for
heading
off extreme combustion problems. It would be nice if we could
accurately
prioritise mods for people on a tight
budget.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 20, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Max boost with
upgraded fuel/stock turbos?
You should install diagnostic parts, coils
and spark amplifier too.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Should I even install the
upgraded fuel system then before upgrading the
> turbos? What will
it net me with stock turbos?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 01:36:14
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Max boost with upgraded fuel/stock turbos?
With the latest we
know we can boost higher without spark blowout by
changing the ignition coils
and adding an amplifier like MSD DIS-4 or HKS
TwinPower.
Therefore,
worth the investment.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Coils? spark
amplifiers? I'm not getting this, we seem to be loosing
touch
>
with keeping it simple. Save your money for lighter seats.
Ignition
> systems, cat backs, BOV's, and turbo timers are neat to have,
but (in my
> case), totally unnessesary. I'm in total agreement with
Roger on the
> diagnostics i.e. Pocketlogger. Additionally, an EGT
is critical for
heading
> off extreme combustion problems. It
would be nice if we could accurately
> prioritise mods for people on a
tight budget.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:49:25
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BAFMOC
I don't have a cooling problem, i just would like my oil
to be a little cooler.
At 04:04 PM 2/22/02 -0800, fastmax
wrote:
>What kind of cooling problem are you having --- do you race your
car ???
>
> Jim
Berry
>====================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:51:01
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BAFMOC - cooler size ?
"Thermostatic control" happens at the
engine, not the cooler.......
At 04:02 PM 2/22/02 -0800, fastmax
wrote:
>Probably 6 x8 x1 --- it's been a while but that's fairly
close.
>It's also thermostatically controlled.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:01:23
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Max boost with upgraded fuel/stock turbos?
The main problem is that too
many people just copy what's being done
by others without looking at what
they want.
The first thing you need to do is define a goal for your car
--- it's your
job to determine if you can afford it. If you want a nice
street car that
can outperform most of the cars on the road go with an
improved air
filter, a boost controller set to 14 or 15 pounds and maybe some
lowering
springs that are about 30% stiffer --- cost is minimal and it can be
done
by most folks.
In my case I want a streetable road track car. I
don't need to get as much
horsepower as the ¼ mile guys, I need the power
over a longer time without
burning the car down. In addition, since it's not
my daily driver it doesn't have
to be quite as comfortable although I'm sure
as hell not going to give up the A/C.
I'm overdesigning my engine for it's
intended use hoping that I won't blow it up.
The goal is 30 pounds at 8000
rpm, it should turn high 10's,even though it'll
probably never see a drag
strip. I buy a lot of my stuff in group buys and
used, as a result my upgrade
path is torturous at best.
If you want the fastest, lightest 3S car on
the planet then bring buckets of
money and keep us informed as to
progress.
Jim
berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Max boost with
upgraded fuel/stock turbos?
> Coils? spark amplifiers? I'm not
getting this, we seem to be loosing touch
> with keeping it
simple. Save your money for lighter seats. Ignition
>
systems, cat backs, BOV's, and turbo timers are neat to have, but (in my
>
case), totally unnessesary. I'm in total agreement with Roger on
the
> diagnostics i.e. Pocketlogger. Additionally, an EGT is
critical for heading
> off extreme combustion problems. It would be
nice if we could accurately
> prioritise mods for people on a tight
budget.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 14:26:37
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: boost controller
> > > If you install the Supra pump
without an adjustable
> > > fuel pressure regulator or an electronic
fuel
> > > controller (i.e. S-AFC) you will run rich at idle
>
> > (and probably WOT, too).
People who try to sell new things,
like adjustable FPRs tend to stretch the
facts a bit in order to get a
sale.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 20:30:09
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
I agree with your recommendation below,
but noting the AWS should increase
the average cornering limits.
Yes, the AWS increases rear slip(a bad thing) but that allows the
front
wheels to slip less(a very good thing in our Pushy cars). So, at the
same
lateral turn and radius, you have less front turnin to get the
same
cornering effect. And, since you don't want to just take that added
safety
factor, you can now turn the front in further, to get more
cornering
ability!
Yes, if you hit the limit it would seem the extra
slip would allow a quicker
spin or maybe less recovery, but you can't get
nothin' for nothin' so they
say. Anyway, we all never exceed the limit,
only touch it, right?
Just ramblin from a non-AWS drivers seat. 96
NA
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002
7:07 AM
To:
'pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com';
team3s@team3s.com;
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Willis, Charles
E.
Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
YES! Philip,
you da' man!
Now, since your discussion and diagram establishes that AWS
actually
INCREASES the slip angle of the rear tires by up to 1.5 degrees,
then it
could push you past the limit of adhesion, especially if you have the
front
wheels loaded at turn-in. That suggests the most surefootted way
to turn in
for our cars is to brake, get off the brakes, let the suspension
settle, and
turnin with the car neutral.
Nice
diagrams!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 4:37
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com;
dschilberg@pobox.com; Willis, Charles
E.
> Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
>
I think this is the kind of case when
> an illustration is worth a
thousand words. (besides the two files are just
> 7K, I hope they go
through). If you flip back and forth between the two
> pictured you will
see the difference between the AWS and the non-AWS
> systems. Maybe
someone could make an animated GIF.
>
> It looks like the advantage
of the AWS system in a turn is that it cuts
> back on the unnecessary yaw
and fishtailing. You start turning earlier
> because all the wheels engage
and start carrying the lateral load
> simultaneously. And when you exit
out of the turn all you have to do it
> straighten the steering wheel and
you are going straight!
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 18:55:30
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Yes, yes, yes I already
checked the brake fluid level and it's perfect. I
searched through the
archives and did my homework but could not find a
similar post. It
seems to be related to the car having more "juice" in the
mornings....
Anyone know why I would get a 13.5 volt reading in the morning
and then it
slowly goes down during the day to around 12.5 and then that's
when the brake
light goes off and it will stay at that reading all day
long.
????? (seems like it charges itself a little at
night?)
Is it hard to change the ebrake cable/assembly out?
Any
help is appreciated,
Thanks,
- -Erik
91 Stealth
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: "Erik
Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 2:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Emergency Brake
Light Stays On ???
> the "ebrake" light also comes on when you are low
on brake fluid
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Erik Petterson
>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 1:37 AM
> To: Stealth List
>
Subject: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
>
>
> Ok I
have a problem with my Emergency Brake light coming on. My car
is
91
> Stealth Base model with an automatic. Here's the
deal... When I start it
> up in the morning after it has been
sitting all night, the E-brake light
is
> on. I can drive it to
work and it will still be on. Sometime during mid
> day while
driving around it goes off and is off until the next morning. I
>
don't use the E-brake at all since my car is an automatic.
>
> Now
what I have also noticed is that when I start it in the morning the
>
Alternator (voltage) gauge is 3 lines above the 12, close to the 14
mark.
> While driving around during the day it slowly decreses down to
around the
> first line above the 12. Once it gets there is about
the time the Brake
> light goes away.
>
> AND this all
started after getting the car back from the dealership when
> they
replaced the alternator.
>
> Any thoughts as to what this could
be???
>
> Also what lights are supposed to come on when you turn the
key to the "On"
> position (just before starting it). The battery,
e-brake, coolant level,
> and the check engine and seatbelt lights are on
on mine --is this normal?
> The reason I asked is because when the
alternator was dying the e-brake
> light and coolant and battery light
were all on.
>
> Ok sorry if i have confused the heck out of you
guys.
>
> Erik,
> -91 Stealth
>
> P.S. I am
going on a long trip this weekend and would like to get this
> fixxed
beforehand. THANKS !
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 20:14:58
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Two questions really....one about cam gears, one abou t TT brakes on an
NA
With my 96 NA 16 in stock wheels on a 92 TT, there is about .1 in
clearance or less.
The diameter is ok, maybe .25 inch or more, but the
spokes are real close.
With a 5mm spacer, they will fit fine. So I am
thinking any 17 inch will fit fine too.
I am going to make an adaptor to
put the rotor and caliper on my NA hub with 5mm spacer.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Koch
[mailto:eK2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 6:06
AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Two questions really....one about cam gears, one about
TT brakes on
an NA
1. I have an NA Stealth with a mod list that is growing rather
fast. I have
heard that cam gears (adjustable) should start at -1 deg and +3
deg for
settings...I am sure this was for a TT but my question is will this
be good
for a start point on my NA?
2. I am also putting TT brake
rotors on my NA in the front, with all this
talk about 17" wheels I have
gotten myself in a worry about the calipers not
fitting. Is this going to be
a problem, stock TT calipers 92 on a 93 NA with
after market 17's? I know the
knucles and other stuff needed but I am
thinking I need 18's for some reason.
Also would I need to get TT front SS
lines instead of NA SS
lines?
Hans and Matt please chime in......
bobk.
93
NA
looking like a true 200hp at the wheels when I am done....then that
red
button for 100 more.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:42:52
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
BAFMOC
I believe there are definitely design differences as far as the
undertrays
go between stealths and 3Ks. All first gen stealths i have seen
have the
opening you're talking about, but all 1st gen 3Ks have a completely
closed
undertray area.. with the only opening to the radiator in the front
bumper.
Not too sure about the second gens..
Omar
92 r/t
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Friday,
February 22, 2002 4:28 PM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net; 'Team
3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: BAFMOC
Rich ---- I still contend they you're
missing some of the undertrays
that direct air up into the radiator from
below. I didn't take any pictures
as I said I would but there should be an
opening just in front of the
radiator on the bottom of the car that allows
air up into the radiator.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 22:11:39
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
I was going to say maybe the
cable has a bad connection. But if it has
more juice then maybe there
is a little moisture back there making a
little arcing and shorting out the
connection but as the day goes along
it dries out. Just a
though.
Not hard to change but you need to take off the rear brakes, then
the
drum portion of the e-brake, etc. Not hard but since it does not
come
apart often it is usually stuck on there pretty good unless you
recently
had that portion of the e-brake fixed. I don't think most
people wear
out the pads on the e-brake very often. :)
You know
the easy fix is some black electrical tape over the annoying
light.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik
Petterson
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 20:56
Yes, yes, yes I
already checked the brake fluid level and it's perfect.
I
searched through
the archives and did my homework but could not find a
similar post. It
seems to be related to the car having more "juice"
in
the
mornings.... Anyone know why I would get a 13.5 volt reading
in the
morning
and then it slowly goes down during the day to around 12.5
and then
that's
when the brake light goes off and it will stay at that
reading all day
long.
????? (seems like it charges itself a
little at night?)
Is it hard to change the ebrake cable/assembly
out?
Any help is appreciated,
Thanks,
- -Erik
91
Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:52:23
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
re:team3s:emergency brake light
Darren,
Before you take the brake
system appart check the brake switch. there is a
plug below and with the
lever down the switch should be open.
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 20:26:25
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
In general, you will have
a higher voltage reading in the morning because
your battery is cold.
Cold batteries have a lower voltage reading so your
car thinks that it has to
recharge the battery. To do this, it will
increase the power coming
from your alternator. When your battery get up to
normal operating
temperature, and it is fully charged, then your voltage
reading will drop
back to normal or 12.5 volts for your car. This is
all
normal.
As for your brake light, you should check something simple
first before you
start replacing things. Check your parking brake
switch. See if it is
sticking or if there is any goo in it that might
make it stick or disrupt an
electrical connection. I saved $75 when I
just took apart my cruise control
main switch and cleaned the internal
contacts instead of replacing it like
the dealer said.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
> Yes, yes, yes I already checked the brake fluid level
and it's perfect. I
> searched through the archives and did my
homework but could not find a
> similar post. It seems to be related
to the car having more "juice" in
the
> mornings.... Anyone know
why I would get a 13.5 volt reading in the
morning
> and then it slowly
goes down during the day to around 12.5 and then that's
> when the brake
light goes off and it will stay at that reading all day
long.
>
????? (seems like it charges itself a little at
night?)
>
> Is it hard to change the ebrake cable/assembly
out?
>
> Any help is appreciated,
>
> Thanks,
>
-Erik
> 91 Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 22:48:38
-0600
From: "Marvin Rubenking" <
mr54043@alltel.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really confused now...
91
GT SL,
Still Won't Start, turns over excellent.
Fuel Pump is OK.
Fuel
Filter is OK.
Fuel Pressure Regulating valve is OK.
Good spark on all
three front cylinders, new plugs and wires all around.
Haven't pulled the
plenum again to check spark and compression on the back
cylinders, I am
assuming since the front looks so good, no need.
Good compression on front
cylinders.
When front plugs are pulled, they appear to be wet with fuel,
Injectors
working??? Assuming so, not sure.
Checked timing via marks per
procedure on website, looks good.
What else can cause this thing not to
start??? Minimal knowledge here,
please help!
What happens when
the ECU fails? What happens when the Capacitors in the
ECU fail?
And how do you get the ECU out of that hole???
Thanks in Advance.
Marv
Rubenking
91 SL, Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 01:35:23
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really confused now...
You
can try disconnecting one of the injector electrical connectors that
you
could reach and see with a voltmeter (or a 12V light bulb??) if you get
pulses when you crank the engine.
Make sure that your plug wires are
connected to the right plugs.
If you pull the plugs (the front ones are
enough) and crank the engine the
spark should be large and blue.
The
plugs should be dry to work. It they get wet with fuel again the engine
should fire at least couple times before that
happens.
Philip
At 11:48 PM 2/22/2002, Marvin Rubenking
wrote:
>91 GT SL,
>Still Won't Start, turns over
excellent.
>Fuel Pump is OK.
>Fuel Filter is OK.
>Fuel
Pressure Regulating valve is OK.
>Good spark on all three front cylinders,
new plugs and wires all around.
>Haven't pulled the plenum again to check
spark and compression on the back
>cylinders, I am assuming since the
front looks so good, no need.
>Good compression on front
cylinders.
>When front plugs are pulled, they appear to be wet with fuel,
Injectors
>working??? Assuming so, not sure.
>Checked timing via
marks per procedure on website, looks good.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 01:03:50
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube
Hey guys,
Check
this out:
http://www.electricsupercharger.comClaims
to give a 5-15 hp boost @ 1psi when attached in place of the air
intake. Uses
a remote controlled airplane motor of some sort that attaches
to throttle
body. I'm wondering if this thing's actually efficient, and
worth $300. First
of all, somehow the process of going from engine to
drive/alternator belt to
battery, back to electric supercharger seems a
little bit inefficient. I
wonder if load would cancel the boost? The other
thing I'd consider would be
getting the autophysics quick change air intake.
I love the concept of the
K&N FIPK, but this autophysics intake actually has
provision for a tube
to be routed to the underbody where the real cold air
is. Looks like an
economical way to get boost besides adding a professional
"intake scoop" to
the underbody.
http://www.autophysics.com/quickchange.htmlAny
comments on recommending on over the other, or just should I forget both
and
the the FIPK?
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 01:13:54
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube - my car specs
BTW, my
car is a 1993 dodge stealth r/t tt.
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 05:54:21
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube - my car
specs
Riyan,
For $300 you can gut the pre-cats and put in a really
nice sounding
exhaust (Borla, HKS, etc.) and gain in the neighborhood of
30-50 hp. If
you do the high-flow cat and single muffler (not the
cross-over) then it
is big hp gains. Replace with a straight downpipe
even. Might be near
$500 but $300 for 5-15 hp sounds a bit high on
price-to-hp ratio. The
FIPK gives about 2-5 hp I think at
most.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan
Mynuddin
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 1:04 AM
Hey
guys,
Check this out:
http://www.electricsupercharger.comClaims
to give a 5-15 hp boost @ 1psi when attached in place of the air
intake. Uses
a remote controlled airplane motor of some sort that
attaches
to throttle
body. I'm wondering if this thing's actually efficient, and
worth $300. First
of all, somehow the process of going from engine to
drive/alternator belt to
battery, back to electric supercharger seems a
little bit inefficient. I
wonder if load would cancel the boost? The
other
thing I'd consider would
be getting the autophysics quick change air
intake.
I love the concept of
the K&N FIPK, but this autophysics intake actually
has
provision for a
tube to be routed to the underbody where the real cold
air
is. Looks like
an economical way to get boost besides adding a
professional
"intake
scoop" to the underbody.
http://www.autophysics.com/quickchange.htmlAny
comments on recommending on over the other, or just should I
forget
both
and the the FIPK?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:36:01
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube
Old
stuff :-)
Bob's Stealth was the one tested with the e-ram. The
result was a 5 hp gain
on the NA with a K&N attached.
Also running
a cold air input benefits but is not that critical on the NA
cars. No gain,
just a good butt feeling that you now are sucking colder
air
in.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>
http://www.electricsupercharger.com>
>
Claims to give a 5-15 hp boost @ 1psi when attached in place of the air
>
intake. Uses a remote controlled airplane motor of some sort that
attaches
> to throttle body. I'm wondering if this thing's actually
efficient, and
> worth $300. First of all, somehow the process of going
from engine to
> drive/alternator belt to battery, back to electric
supercharger seems a
> little bit inefficient. I wonder if load would
cancel the boost? The other
> thing I'd consider would be getting the
autophysics quick change air
intake.
> I love the concept of the
K&N FIPK, but this autophysics intake actually
has
> provision for
a tube to be routed to the underbody where the real cold air
> is. Looks
like an economical way to get boost besides adding a
professional
>
"intake scoop" to the underbody.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 10:08:31
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension
I am having my new struts and shocks put on tomorrow along
with the Eibachi
lowering springs and a rear sway bar. Currently when I hit
bumps or uneven
road I can hear a sound from the struts/shocks. Would that be
the bushings
telling me they are shot? I am trying to figure out if I should
pick some of
those up today as well?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 10:15:28
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube - my car
specs
Too restrictive for a TT. You will have to run two of them in
parallel.
They are claiming that "Turbo on N/A doesn't matter: it works
on both." but
a 3.0L TT has the same airflow as a 5.OL+ N/A. In which case
they say
"email us to discuss your options". Just get a boost controller if
you do
not have one yet.
Philip
At 04:13 AM 2/23/2002, Riyan
Mynuddin wrote:
>BTW, my car is a 1993 dodge stealth r/t
tt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 10:39:11
-0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
boost controller
I had the stock FPR on my VR4's with the HKS/Cosmo
upgrade pump which is
essentially the same as a Supra Mk IV pump...PLUS a
Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump
to up the voltage/output even more (it only came on
under boost), and never
used anything BUT the stock FPR. No
problems...just set records.
I have an adjustable SX FPR on my 94 now that I
have 2 Walbro pumps in that
car...set to stock pressure value.
Jack
T.
From: "Steve Cooper"
> > If you install the Supra pump
without an adjustable
> > fuel pressure regulator or an electronic
fuel
> > controller (i.e. S-AFC) you will run rich at idle
> >
(and probably WOT, too).
> People who try to sell new things, like
adjustable FPRs tend to stretch t
> facts a bit in order to get a
sale.
>Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 08:43:30
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update,really confused now...
Have
you tried squirting in starter fluid to see if it even coughs?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Marvin Rubenking <
mr54043@alltel.net>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, February 22, 2002 8:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car won't start,
please help! Update,really confused
now...
>
>91 GT
SL,
>Still Won't Start, turns over excellent.
>Fuel Pump is
OK.
>Fuel Filter is OK.
>Fuel Pressure Regulating valve is
OK.
>Good spark on all three front cylinders, new plugs and wires all
around.
>Haven't pulled the plenum again to check spark and compression on
the back
>cylinders, I am assuming since the front looks so good, no
need.
>Good compression on front cylinders.
>When front plugs are
pulled, they appear to be wet with fuel, Injectors
>working??? Assuming
so, not sure.
>Checked timing via marks per procedure on website, looks
good.
>
>What else can cause this thing not to start???
Minimal knowledge here,
>please help!
>
>What happens when the
ECU fails? What happens when the Capacitors in the
>ECU fail?
And how do you get the ECU out of that hole???
>
>Thanks in
Advance.
>Marv Rubenking
>91 SL, Pearl White
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:41:26
-0500
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Apexi
Install Help
Got a quick question for ANYONE with an apexi AVC-R
installed. I have the
wiring done, that was no problem, but under the hood is
confusing. my EVC-EZ
that was taken out had 3 hoses coming off the solenoid.
one to the bov line,
one to the y-pipe, and one to the wastegate controllers
above the rear
turbo. the avc only has two! which ones do i install where?
any help would
be greatly appreciated!! Im dying to try this out and it looks
really nice,
just gotta make it DO SOMETHING ;) thanks in advance
Ron
Zilinksy
1992 RT/TT
Apexi AVC-R (aint working yet)
Gutted Rear
Precat
TurboXS H-RFL BOV
DN Performance Y-Pipe
Stillen
DownPipe
Stage II Clutch
8mm Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on
A-pillar
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was free
;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:10:21
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apexi Install Help
Apexi Page 44 of the manual shows
everything.
The BOV line goes to the boost sensor, NO to the y-pipe, COM
to the
wastegate line. Make sure the stock boost solenoid is capped
off.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Got a quick question for
ANYONE with an apexi AVC-R installed. I have the
> wiring done, that was
no problem, but under the hood is confusing. my
EVC-EZ
> that was taken
out had 3 hoses coming off the solenoid. one to the bov
line,
> one to
the y-pipe, and one to the wastegate controllers above the rear
> turbo.
the avc only has two! which ones do i install where? any help would
> be
greatly appreciated!! Im dying to try this out and it looks
really
nice,
> just gotta make it DO SOMETHING ;) thanks in
advance
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 11:22:20
-0800
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electric Supercharger / AutoPhysics intake tube
> Hey
guys,
> Check this out:
>
http://www.electricsupercharger.com>
Claims to give a 5-15 hp boost @ 1psi when attached in place of the air
-
----------------snipped--------------->
It might be a good time for
everybody to look at our Team3S website... Why
not try FAQ Index, for
starters? If you look through the FAQ Index, under
"Modifications",
you'll notice the article about "Testing the eRAM...".
If you *don't* see
something you're looking for right away in the FAQ Index,
then go to the
Search Page and enter a word or two about what you're looking
for. Say,
in this case..., maybe "eram" or "eram testing"!?! That phrase
will
bring up 264 instances of the terms "eram" and "testing" being used
in
previous list discussions, on over 30 archive pages.
We've got
1300+ pages on the Team3S website, but sometimes I get the
impression that
some of you don't even know where our Home Page is... ;-)
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmwww.Team3S.com/Search.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:25:56
-0600
From: "Craig Hodges" <
chodges@texas.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Help with Blitz SBC-id and Power Meter
I got the Blitz SBC-id Boost
Controller, the Power meter, and the Blitz
wiring harness. My problem is the
instructions for the Power Meter wiring
harness are in Japanese. I can't tell
what wire goes to what! Can anyone
help!
Thanks
Craig
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:55:59
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
My front turbo is off, I'm waiting for
gaskets in the
mail and now The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
task
list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The question is this, It
looks like a lot of work!
but do I realy need a
tensioner pully socket wrench, seems like just
puting
the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket and
puting the
belt on and tight is good enough, by golly
the the book range is 12lbs
difference and if I get
it back aprox to what I found it at I should be
good
enough. Now remember I want to get this back on the
road without
going further in the hole. My new turbos
are 13g's.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:55:59
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
My front turbo is off, I'm waiting for
gaskets in the
mail and now The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
task
list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The question is this, It
looks like a lot of work!
but do I realy need a
tensioner pully socket wrench, seems like just
puting
the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket and
puting the
belt on and tight is good enough, by golly
the the book range is 12lbs
difference and if I get
it back aprox to what I found it at I should be
good
enough. Now remember I want to get this back on the
road without
going further in the hole. My new turbos
are 13g's.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:05:00
-0800 (PST)
From: Joe Barchesky <
gd1996@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: wtb:
front end parts for 91 rt
I am leaving soon to go look at a wrecked 91
rt tt,
its only got 14k, anyways it needs a right fender,
bumber cover,
hood, headlight, maybe airbag. Does
anybody have any of these
parts? I can probally get
it for 6000, its at a dealer, so I might just
trade in
the trans am and take a loss. So still got to work
out
details, so I'd appreciate if anybody can help.
Joe B
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:33:32
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wtb: front end parts for 91 rt
If you live near the
northwest I got one for sale in very good
condition....one very small ding in
the front center...if you stuck
an emblem on it you wouldn't see the
ding...very small...hood is
green from a 93 R/T Non
turbo...250.00$
let me know
bobk.
- ---- Original Message
----
From:
gd1996@yahoo.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: wtb: front end parts for 91 rt
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:05:00
-0800 (PST)
>I am leaving soon to go look at a wrecked 91 rt
tt,
>its only got 14k, anyways it needs a right fender,
>bumber
cover, hood, headlight, maybe airbag. Does
>anybody have any of
these parts? I can probally get
>it for 6000, its at a dealer, so I
might just trade in
>the trans am and take a loss. So still got to
work
>out details, so I'd appreciate if anybody can
help.
>
>Joe B
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:06:31
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
I made the new pics of the AWS and the
Non-AWS cars and Forrest posted them
on the Team3S website and made an
animation (thanks, Forrest!)
www.Team3S.com/Images/large-radius-non-aws.gifwww.Team3S.com/Images/large-radius-aws.gifAnd
the animation is:
www.Team3S.com/Images/aws-vs-non-aws-opt.gifYou
can see my first attempt at these pictures at:
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/Non-AWS.gifwww.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/AWS.gifI
exaggerated all the angles about 3-5 times to make them noticeable and I
assumed large turning radius, which is a realistic assumption because at
30+ MPH the turning radius is indeed large in comparison to the size of the
car.
Flash posted links to the STIM pages, which explain the whole
operation
pretty well:
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-02.gifhttp://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-05.gifhttp://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-06.gifhttp://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-07.gifhttp://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-11.gifI
am not going to write my own version of STIM but I would like to write a
short summary of the main points that we discussed.
The slip angles
are functions of the lateral force, which is basically the
same for AWS and
FWS cars after they enter a turn. At steady turning the
lateral force is the
primary factor. It generates the slip angles.
Therefore the slip angles at
steady turning will also be the same.
Since the rear wheels of a AWS car
are turned in by 1.5 degrees WRT car's
body, and the slip angles are the
same, the car's body will be turned out
by 1.5 degrees more (less
yaw!).
The front wheels have to be turned in by 1.5 more WRT car's body
in order
for the car to follow the same trajectory. You have to work your
steering
wheel more on an AWS car to make a turn.
In the absolute
coordinates (not the car's coordinates though), the front
wheels are turned
at the same angle and the rear wheels are turned at the
same angle, but the
car's body is turned towards the outside of the turn by
1.5 degrees more.
The rear wheels are following a smaller radius, whereas
the font wheels are
following the larger one. This results in a smaller yaw
angle, which is good
because it takes time and lateral force to change yaw.
Yaw is
waste.
The AWS has an advantage over the FWS only during the transient
phases of
maneuvers - the entrance into the turn and the exit out of it. You
start
turning earlier because all the wheels engage and start carrying the
lateral load simultaneously. In the middle of the turn, when the transient
phase is over, both cars will have the same slip angles because at steady
state they are dictated by the lateral centrifugal forces on each axle.
When you exit the turn all you have to do is straighten the steering wheel
and you are going straight! No fishtailing required.
The benefit of
the AWS in changing lanes faster is obvious - you do not
need to rotate your
whole car right, for example, to move to the right
lane. Turning all the
wheels right is enough. Less yaw again!
Philip
