Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, February 18
2002 Volume 01 : Number 757
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Has anyone replaced theirs? Any tricks or shortcuts to getting it
out? The
service manual pretty much has you take the whole brake system
out, and then
the clutch pedal and all the other stuff under the dash.
Any hints?
Mine is leaking a little fluid out of the rubber boot, and it makes
a
whining sound when over 15 psi of boost. Clutch action is really
stiff, so
I'm assuming the booster is shot. The check-valve in the
vacuum feeder line
from the intake plenum is working properly.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:53:43 -0600
From: "Marvin Rubenking" <
mr54043@alltel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Car won't start, please help!
I am new to the list, I will keep this as short as I can, please help I
am
without a vehicle!
A week ago in the evening I started my car and moved it a short distance
to
a flat spot to check my oil. The next morning it would not
start. The
dealer told me that I probably flooded it and I would have
to remove the
plugs clean and reinstall. It was time for new ones
anyway, so I replaced
the plugs, wires, and fuel filter while I was at
it. It still won't start.
I checked the fuel pump and pressure
regulating valve, all seem to be ok. I
also pulled a plug again it
appears there is gas getting to the cylinders, I
then checked the timing per
this site, looks good. The thing will turn over
great, but will not
fire off. This is a 91 3000GT SL (Pearl White) with
110,000 miles. It
is my every day driver. I only have one dealer where I
live in Nebraska
and they pissed me off so I really don't want to take it to
them, plus I am
not sure I can afford it! What am I missing, please help,
it would be
greatly appreciated! This has been an excellent car for the
five years
and 60K I have owned it.
Thanks,
Marvin Rubenking
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 20:17:06 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Car won't start, please help!
My stealth had a problem once and it turned out to be
the little black
wire going to the battery was
corroded through, but it looked good. I spliced
on
some
more length and reconnected it and it worked fine.
This is just
a simple thing to check out prior to full
fledged panic. One other time my
fuel pump went out,
just like that without warning, the dealer wanted
$900
to fix it but it was failry simple and a new pump is
only $125 and
you can change it with the right tools
in about half a hour. The dealer siad
I had to take
out the tank but that was wrong. You should be able to
check
this with the computer on the car. There are
links to computer code on the
FAQ pages. Maybe someone
knows the code could post the message number and
pins
to read it.
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 22:56:19 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Car won't start, please help!
I also had some similar problems one time when I was putting my car
back
together...
My problem was spark plug wires in the wrong places... (read the
manual
wrong)...
Also, you could have a bad ECU... that would seem to be another
common
problem keeping it from starting... Check to see if the car is
firing
(check the spark plugs)... The easy way to do this is to remove
a
sparkplug from the front bank (the farthest driver side plug works
the
best cause it has the longest spark plug wire) Once it is removed,
have
someone attempt to start the car while holding the bottom of the
spark
plug to the metal chassis (ground it)... Make sure you hold
it by the
spark plug boot, as you don't wanna shock the crap out of
yourself...
If you see spark, then you can rule out the possibility of at
least one
bad coil pack, and you can try the other coil packs this way
also...
just disconnect one spark plug wire from each one, and attach
the
removed one to it and check for spark also... My bet is that you
don't
get spark... If this is so, check the operation of the coil
packs
first, and if they check out, I would bet that it is the ECU... I
had
an ECU go bad... mine was caused by a shorted out ISC motor,
which
caused it to not fire the coil packs at all...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of menalteed
Sent: Sunday,
February 17, 2002 10:17 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Re: Car won't
start, please help!
My stealth had a problem once and it turned out to be
the little black
wire going to the battery was
corroded through, but it looked good. I spliced
on
some
more length and reconnected it and it worked fine.
This is just
a simple thing to check out prior to full
fledged panic. One other time my
fuel pump went out,
just like that without warning, the dealer wanted
$900
to fix it but it was failry simple and a new pump is
only $125 and
you can change it with the right tools
in about half a hour. The dealer siad
I had to take
out the tank but that was wrong. You should be able to
check
this with the computer on the car. There are
links to computer code on the
FAQ pages. Maybe someone
knows the code could post the message number and
pins
to read it.
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:12:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
what to buy!?
I am planning on buying a 3000
GT VR-4 but I
am not sure which year is best to buy it. I was
just
wondering if anyone can give me some advice about
which year is best
or what different years offer. I
would like to buy a newer one if possible
because it
would be my only car but I would still buy and older
one if
there are important differences. Price doesn't
matter and I am also planning
on doing after market
work. Please e-mail me with any thoughts and
ideas
about what I should do. Thank you so
much.
~Kian~
------------------------------
A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything --
active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be
certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks
its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had its
60,000
mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib
wrote:
> I am planning on buying
a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:28:58 +0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
what to buy!?
As far as differences go aside from the later models
not having things
like ECS, the two major differences
that I can think of are
1. Stock, the 91-93 3/S are @ 300 HP, vs. the 320 HP
for the later
models
2. Currently, there is no datalogger available for 94+
model years
(though I'm working on that one :)
There are minor differences like the one I mentioned
before - there is
a listing somewhere, but as far as I
can remember, the later models started
getting rid of
ECS (electronic suspension control) and the 4ws system.
BTW, I'm selling my '95 VR4 - if ur interested, lemme
know off list,
i'll send some pics.
Alex.
> I am
planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
> am not sure which year is best
to buy it. I was just
> wondering if anyone can give me some advice
about
> which year is best or what different years offer. I
> would
like to buy a newer one if possible because it
> would be my only car but
I would still buy and older
> one if there are important differences.
Price doesn't
> matter and I am also planning on doing after
market
> work. Please e-mail me with any thoughts and ideas
> about
what I should do. Thank you so
much.
>
~Kian~
------------------------------
I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
the '95 ECU. If
someone has the ecu out and could look
send me any IDs off the chip or if
someone flat out has
the info, please let me know.
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 01:30:31 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
Definitely a 94 for all the gadgets but a 91-93 is best for
aftermarket
tuning because of the ECU (unless you just replace it with a
Motec
engine management system then you can take any one of them).
6-speed is
great for cruising but 5-speed covers the same range of rpm/mph in
one
less gear so that is better-suited for the track some feel.
I'm just happy you are getting a 3/S car.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Monday, February 18,
2002 00:20
A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything --
active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be
certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks
its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had
its
60,000
mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib
wrote:
> I am planning on buying
a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 02:02:50 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
FYI, if you go to Sears for an alignment remind them that our car
is
listed under the "Difficult Alignment" section or else they will set
you
up with the FWD or 2-wheel alignment. For $90 they will to
the
four-wheel (or say they can) but when they type it in to a computer
it
won't light the green button to do it automatically. That means
they
are too dumb to figure it out on their own from a book of specs.
In
other words, don't go to Sears. Or if you do -- warn them ahead of
time
to read the book.
I had one mechanic tell me the rear camber was not adjustable. I
know
that is wrong obviously and told him to find it. After 15 minutes
of
looking under the car of everything he shrugged and said they did
the
best they could. Expletives deleted here ... and conclusion is I
won't
go back. Sure it was $90 and got close to stock I can take it to
my
tuning shop and for $100 an hour get it done the way I like.
Just get intimate with it so you can explain it when they can't
find
these eccentric bolts, the all-wheel steering mechanisms, etc.
- --Flash!
1995 VR04
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Friday, February 15,
2002 19:50
If you lowered the car and didn't get an alignment
you've got a
potential
mess for an alignment. The biggest changes are
camber and toe --- if
you're
running excessive camber and toe in you'll
get weird wear patterns and
weird handling.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:59:39 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
A Motorla deriverat from Mitsubishi. No number on it that helps
anything.
> I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
> the
'95 ECU. If someone has the ecu out and could look
> send me any IDs off
the chip or if someone flat out has
> the info, please let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 04:29:24 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SpeedBleeder
Does anyone know what SpeedBleeders, if any, fit the front second
gen
stock calipers? The list below is confusing. On the Stealth
AWD how is
the first entry different from the second?
Also, on the 3000GT is that saying the VR-4 has a different caliper
than
the FWD one? I thought they were the same.
92-96 Stealth AWD front SpeedBleeder part #
SB1010
92-96 Stealth AWD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
91 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part #
SB1010
91 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
91-93 2WD 3000GT front SpeedBleeder part #
SB1010
91-93 2WD 3000GT rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and in need of some more SpeedBleeders
------------------------------
Allready been there done that. I can't get any datasheets for any chips
in
it except for the output drivers. They are available from most
suppliers.
Steve
> I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
> the '95
ECU. If someone has the ecu out and could look
> send me any IDs off the
chip or if someone flat out has
> the info, please let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:40:58 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
Have to question this suggestion just for a minute guys....
Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better??? I mean,
weight
savings can be very important when racing, even auto-X....
How much
weight does all that extra stuff add... active exhaust and
its
controllers/ motors, active aero and its motors/actuators, and
ECS
too...
According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest VR4
produced
(well, up to '96, cause the service manual I have doesn't
cover
'97-'00)....
- -Cody
Definitely a 94 for all the gadgets but a 91-93 is best for
aftermarket
tuning because of the ECU (unless you just replace it with a
Motec
engine management system then you can take any one of them).
6-speed is
great for cruising but 5-speed covers the same range of rpm/mph in
one
less gear so that is better-suited for the track some feel.
I'm just happy you are getting a 3/S car.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Monday, February 18,
2002 00:20
A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything --
active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be
certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks
its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had
its
60,000
mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib
wrote:
> I am planning on buying
a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:43:52 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
Found a cool place down the road from me here in San Antonio, guys
are
real cool... Anyways... for $89, they'll align your car for
the rest
of its life no matter what... They know what they are
doing, and they
will also take your recommendations as to how to set the
camber and
such... The place is a chain called Brake Check, and I think
the key to
working with these places is just finding one that has some
employees
that are willing to work with you...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2002 1:03 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
FYI, if you go to Sears for an alignment remind them that our car
is
listed under the "Difficult Alignment" section or else they will set
you
up with the FWD or 2-wheel alignment. For $90 they will to
the
four-wheel (or say they can) but when they type it in to a computer
it
won't light the green button to do it automatically. That means
they
are too dumb to figure it out on their own from a book of specs.
In
other words, don't go to Sears. Or if you do -- warn them ahead of
time
to read the book.
I had one mechanic tell me the rear camber was not adjustable. I
know
that is wrong obviously and told him to find it. After 15 minutes
of
looking under the car of everything he shrugged and said they did
the
best they could. Expletives deleted here ... and conclusion is I
won't
go back. Sure it was $90 and got close to stock I can take it to
my
tuning shop and for $100 an hour get it done the way I like.
Just get intimate with it so you can explain it when they can't
find
these eccentric bolts, the all-wheel steering mechanisms, etc.
- --Flash!
1995 VR04
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Friday, February 15,
2002 19:50
If you lowered the car and didn't get an alignment
you've got a
potential
mess for an alignment. The biggest changes are
camber and toe --- if
you're
running excessive camber and toe in you'll
get weird wear patterns and
weird handling.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:49:13 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SpeedBleeder
Darren,
SB1010s...mine are SB1010s all the way around. Some have smaller ones
in
the rear(SB7100s), but all TT/VR4s that I've seen have had SB1010s up
front.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>Reply-To:
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: SpeedBleeder
>Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 04:29:24
-0500
>
>Does anyone know what SpeedBleeders, if any, fit the front
second gen
>stock calipers? The list below is confusing. On
the Stealth AWD how is
>the first entry different from the
second?
>
>Also, on the 3000GT is that saying the VR-4 has a
different caliper than
>the FWD one? I thought they were the
same.
>
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Dodge
>
92-96 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB3824
>
92-96 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part #
SB1010
>
> 92-96 Stealth AWD front SpeedBleeder
part # SB1010
> 92-96 Stealth AWD rear SpeedBleeder part
# SB1010
>
> 91 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder
part # SB1010
> 91 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part #
SB1010
>
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Mitsubishi
>
91-93 3000GT 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>
91-93 3000GT 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part #
SB7100
>
> 91-93 2WD 3000GT front SpeedBleeder
part # SB1010
> 91-93 2WD 3000GT rear SpeedBleeder part
# SB1010
>
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4 and in need of some
more SpeedBleeders
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
I have replaced my clutch booster on my '93VR4. It is a PITA, but you
don't
have to completely remove the brake system. If I recall, I had to
loosen
the brake booster to get access to the clutch booster at the
firewall. You
don't have to remove the pedals or steering wheel.
If you can take the
front seat out, it'll be easier, and raise the car.
I had to work laying
upside down in the front seat.
Chuck Willis
BTW, I still have the old one I took out, if you want to compare it
to
yours.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 8:25
PM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
>
> Has anyone replaced theirs? Any tricks or shortcuts to getting it
out?
> The
> service manual pretty much has you take the whole brake
system out, and
> then
> the clutch pedal and all the other stuff
under the dash. Any hints?
>
> Mine is leaking a little fluid
out of the rubber boot, and it makes a
> whining sound when over 15 psi of
boost. Clutch action is really stiff,
> so
> I'm assuming the
booster is shot. The check-valve in the vacuum feeder
> line
>
from the intake plenum is working properly.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:08:45 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
> I have replaced my clutch booster on my '93VR4. It
> is a
PITA, but you don't have to completely remove
> the brake system. If
I recall, I had to loosen
> the brake booster to get access to the
clutch
> booster at the firewall. You don't have to remove
>
the pedals or steering wheel. If you can take the
> front seat out,
it'll be easier, and raise the car.
> I had to work laying upside down in
the front seat.
The car is still up on stands with the motor out, so the engine bay
portion
should be a piece of cake... I did think about taking the
driver's seat out
- - but unfortunately my car won't power up far enough with
all the guts taken
out so I can't move the seat forward to get at the rear
mounting nuts.
Damn!
Thanks for the info, it'll help a lot just in knowing that it'll come
out
without disconnecting the brake lines and pedal assemblies!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:11:24 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
2002 Auto Show pics
site is best viewed with IE5 or better.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:18:15 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Help: Turn signals no longer work
Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation everything is
good
except for my turn signals which do not work. When the turn signal
arm is
engaged up or down there is no turn signal on either the cluster panel
or
the actual turn lamps at the corners.
1. I have checked the fuse and it is fine
2. The other functions on the
turn signal arm still work (parking lights,
lights, and brights)
3. The
harness for the turn signal arm was still connected under the dash
4. The arm
still makes the "click" noise when engaged but there is no light
on the dash
or the signal lamps
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? TIA.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:21:23 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help: Turn signals no longer work
Maybe something to do with the hazard flasher ????????
Jim Berry
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation
everything is good
> except for my turn signals which do not work.
When the turn signal arm is
> engaged up or down there is no turn signal
on either the cluster panel or
> the actual turn lamps at the
corners.
>
> 1. I have checked the fuse and it is fine
> 2.
The other functions on the turn signal arm still work (parking lights,
>
lights, and brights)
> 3. The harness for the turn signal arm was still
connected under the dash
> 4. The arm still makes the "click" noise when
engaged but there is no light
> on the dash or the signal lamps
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:38:55 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
I did forget to mention that I put the dash together EXCEPT for the
center
air vents which include the switch for the hazard lights. Is
this required
for the turn signals to work? I guess I can see the
correlation since they
operate the turn signals in hazard mode. I will
give that a try tonight.
Thanks Jim! Whew, thought I f'ed something up! Gotta love those
simple
issues.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:21 AM
>
To: Black, Dave (ICT);
stealth@starnet.net; Team3s
(E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
>
> Maybe something to do with the hazard flasher ????????
>
> Jim Berry
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
>
>
> > Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation
everything is
> good
> > except for my turn signals which do not
work. When the turn signal arm
> is
> > engaged up or down
there is no turn signal on either the cluster panel
> or
> > the
actual turn lamps at the corners.
> >
> > 1. I have checked
the fuse and it is fine
> > 2. The other functions on the turn signal
arm still work (parking
> lights,
> > lights, and
brights)
> > 3. The harness for the turn signal arm was still connected
under the
> dash
> > 4. The arm still makes the "click" noise
when engaged but there is no
> light
> > on the dash or the
signal lamps
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:53:06 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
That reminds me, when I reinstalled my instrument panel the "Tour" light
for
the ECS stopped working. "Sport" still shows up though. Any
ideas on this
one?
Christopher
------------------------------
What do the output drivers do?
Also, from what I've read OBDII allows manufactures to include
additional
proprietary sensor readings. Does anyone know if the MUT-II
can read knock
on any 3S '94 and up? (that is, did Mitsubishi include a
proprietary sensor
reading for knock?)
Christopher
> Allready been there done that. I can't get any datasheets for any
chips in
> it except for the output drivers. They are available from most
suppliers.
>
> Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:09:34 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: high speed gauge shot
In anticipation of my upcoming move from Germany to England, I decided to
get a shot of my dash
gauges at speed on the Autobahn while I still have the
chance to drive fast legally. Of all the
shots I took, only one came
out (the others were too fuzzy, too dark, aimed wrong, etc. - pretty
scary!),
not at the fastest speed but close enough (164 mph). If anyone cares, it's
on my web page
(just above the Vehicle Comparison section. The URL for
the picture itself is
http://www.the-matthews.com/images/STEALTH/164mph.jpg.
BTW, if you're wondering about the fuel level vs. trip odometer (230 miles
with a little over a
quarter tank left), I get about 24 mpg at sane speeds
and about 18 mpg at insane speeds. :-)
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:14:02 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
Yes, it displays knock.
> Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock on any 3S '94 and
up?
------------------------------
>> Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock
>> on any
3S '94 and up?
> Yes, it displays knock.
Yeah, a while back some of us tried to pool together some cash and
purchase
one that was for sale on eBay, but our bid got outbid and we didn't
get it.
If I could get my hands on one, I could probably figure out the code
to
retrieve knock sum. Alex Peper (the guy who makes one of the
OBD-II
scantools) said he could add the code into his logger if we figured it
out.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Yeah, Kenneth Ellis told me that story (or a similar story) on 3Si a
few
months ago. That really sucks.
Does anyone know the guy who won it? Wonder if he'd let it be used
for
research?
Anybody else know how to get one?
Since everyone seems to agree the stock knock sensor on the first gens
is
the best you can get, I think putting some effort into getting a
MUT-II
would be a worth while cause; although not quite as cool as Bob
Fontana's
quest to get replacement transmissions parts for the 5 speed:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57924
Christopher
> Yeah, a while back some of us tried to pool together some cash
>
and purchase
> one that was for sale on eBay, but our bid got outbid and
we
> didn't get it.
> If I could get my hands on one, I could
probably figure out the code to
> retrieve knock sum. Alex Peper
(the guy who makes one of the OBD-II
> scantools) said he could add the
code into his logger if we
> figured it out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:08:55 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
They say this comes WITH computer to run it.
In that case I would say
the 40-50% may just be true, although more info on
fuel delivery may be
needed to support that. I gues the 'inline' six pack
must be a 90deg job to
fit under the hood for Mitsu engines?
FOR THE 2.5 & 3.0 V6
Six Pack Inline Throttle Body System
including Computer $2,210.00 For
Mitsubishi 40 to 50% HP Gain
With
Core
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Toy
[mailto:LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 1:00
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
Guys,
I've been dangling the thought of what to do with $2500 in
mods for a
while. I just recently discovered a 6 pack throttle body, from rpw
which
claims a 40 to 50%hp increase. I'm still a little sketchy if
its
credible, but it is I'll definitely go for it.
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htmCheck
out the above site, the info is there. Please let me know what
your thoughts
are on it.
Thanks,
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:14:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
40-50% more power with an intake of any type is way speculative.
Get a car with a decent head design, and the worst intake in
the
world..and then maybe you can say that.
On a 3s..not buyin it.
On Mon, 18 Feb 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> They say this comes WITH computer to run it.
> In that case I
would say the 40-50% may just be true, although more info on
> fuel
delivery may be needed to support that. I gues the 'inline' six pack
>
must be a 90deg job to fit under the hood for Mitsu engines?
>
>
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm>
NEW LOW PRICE ON SIX THROTTLE BODIES SYSTEMS
> Six Pack Twin
Manifold Throttle Body including haltech computer $2,210.00
>
for Chrysler & Dodge & Plymouth 40 to 50% HP Gain
> With
Core
>
> FOR THE 2.5 & 3.0 V6
> Six Pack Inline
Throttle Body System including Computer $2,210.00 For
> Mitsubishi
40 to 50% HP Gain
> With Core
>
> Kurt
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Toy
[mailto:LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002
1:00 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
>
> Guys,
> I've been
dangling the thought of what to do with $2500 in mods for a
> while. I
just recently discovered a 6 pack throttle body, from rpw which
> claims a
40 to 50%hp increase. I'm still a little sketchy if its
> credible, but it
is I'll definitely go for it.
>
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm>
Check out the above site, the info is there. Please let me know what
>
your thoughts are on it.
> Thanks,
> Jason
- ---
Geoff Mohler
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:13:30
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 2002 Auto Show pics
I also have some pictures from the show.
Dave, the ????? Ferrari is the 456GT, the Lotus Elan as you have labeled is
really the Elise, and the teal Lamborghini is the Diablo and not the
Countach. But we won't hold that against you :) Nice
Pics!!!
- --Kevin Umbreit
'91 R/T
>For thoose of you who didn't get a chance to visit the 2002 Chicago
Auto
>Show, I took some pics and posted them on my site under the
Miscellaneous
>menu -
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/2002AutoShow.asp>
>site
is best viewed with IE5 or better.
>
>Dave
95VR4
>http://www.daveblack.net
------------------------------
What is your reason to want to put a 6 pack on your car?
Street or
Strip?
40 to 50% more hp-maybe. If you think you are going to get 111hp from
a n/t
maybe so, but no air cleaner will cost you $ in rebuilding very soon.
also
the cost of $2500 isn't a bargain.
You can install a turbo for that
cost and have the same hp increase with out
fooling with trying to keep a 6
pack tuned. If you already have a t/t forget
a 6 pack.
Sure 6 pack sounds
cool and looks sharpe but there is more to istalling and
turning the
key. Hey what ever you decide good luck.
Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash.
St
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:11:45 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
Well sure it is nice to have all those gadgets NOT on the car
but
remember that some of us drive 15 hours just to GET to the
track.
Sometimes then it is nice to have ECS and fun to show off to the
"kids"
at the track with the moving Aero wing.
But I prefer the look of the one-piece hood (94-96) instead of the
one
with pods glued on to it.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
Sent: Monday, February 18,
2002 07:41
Have to question this suggestion just for a minute
guys....
Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better??? I mean,
weight
savings can be very important when racing, even auto-X....
How much
weight does all that extra stuff add... active exhaust and
its
controllers/ motors, active aero and its motors/actuators, and
ECS
too...
According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest VR4
produced
(well, up to '96, cause the service manual I have doesn't
cover
'97-'00)....
------------------------------
> Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better???
> I
mean, weight savings can be very important when racing,
> even
auto-X.... How much weight does all that extra
> stuff
add... active exhaust and its controllers/ motors,
> active aero and
its motors/actuators, and ECS too...
Active exhaust gets ripped off the car by anyone serious about
performance.
The factory cat-back usually goes in the garbage can as one of
the first
things. Active Aero is probably a reasonably good amount of
weight (40
pounds, maybe, for the motors and actuators and hardware?).
ECS doesn't
really weigh any more since you need shocks anyways - its just a
small motor
that changes the damping bypass hole size. There's probably
a bit of weight
for the angular velocity sensors and all that stuff for ECS,
but I doubt it
adds up to much weight.
> According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest
> VR4
produced (well, up to '96, cause the service manual
> I have doesn't cover
'97-'00)....
3803 for a '94 VR4
3781 for a '95 VR4 (loses Active Exhaust)
3737 for
a '97 VR4 (loses ECS and Active Aero in 1996)
If that's right, then theoretically Active Exhaust adds 22 pounds and
ECS
and Active Aero together are 44 pounds.
I don't think I'd call that significantly more weight - at least not
enough
of a difference to choose one year over another. The 44 pound
difference is
a change in weight of only 2% - not enough to notice on a 3800
pound car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:09:53 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
I agree... so... basically, and after-'94 vr4 is the one to buy if
you
want it as new as possible... the only big thing '91-'93 have going
for
it is the datalogging capabilities... Hell, get a '99 if you can
find
one / afford it...
- -Cody
I don't think I'd call that significantly more weight - at least
not
enough
of a difference to choose one year over another. The 44
pound
difference is
a change in weight of only 2% - not enough to notice
on a 3800 pound
car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:18:09 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
Some 95 VR-4 models also lose ECS. Mine does not have Active Exhaust
or
ECS so I don't know what the true weight of it is or what the weight
of
3,781# includes.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 (mfg in 11/1994)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday,
February 18, 2002 15:01
3803# for a '94 VR4
3781# for a '95 VR4
(loses Active Exhaust)
3737# for a '97 VR4 (loses ECS and Active Aero in
1996)
If that's right, then theoretically Active Exhaust adds 22 pounds
and
ECS
and Active Aero together are 44 pounds.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:12:29 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Group buy for white/indoglo gauge faces - one spot still open
I still have one spot open for the NR Auto White or Indiglo gauge face
group
buy. Please let me know ASAP if you are interested.
Details are:
* AMEX is accepted
* Indiglo is NOT available for 94+ SL models.
Something to do with
the way the pins are located on the faces. So, if
you've ordered that
please let me know what you want to do.
* Indiglo has
a switch for blue or green so you do not have to select
the color for
Indiglo.
* if you still want one, send the following to
dblai@allstate.com:
1. name on credit
card
2. CC billing address
3. CC billing phone
4. year of car
5.
model of car
6. white face or Indiglo
Cost is $115 + $6 shipping.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:17:34 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
[none]
RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
Buy a stealth they are cheaper and the same thing,
only better looking!
My 92 has the facotry sun roof,
plus everything else you could put on it.
AWD,AWS,
five speed, much better then the six speed and not as
much
trouble. TT RT up graded Euro turbos, plus you
can call them a Dodge and get
a big break on
insurance. Only thing is Dodge dosn't know anything
about
fixing them except charging three times what the
repair is worth.
------------------------------
Hi all.
I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle, I have a nerve
racking
ticking noise. From the information I have been able to get from
the
Team3S archives, this may be diagnosed as valve lash. My question
is
should I get the valve adjusters replaced or is the ticking noise
non
damaging to the engine? I have read all about the changing the oil
and
using a additive to quiet down the ticking but have learned that this
is
a temporary fix. I currently use a 10-30w synthetic oil. I have
found
that when I rev the engine, the ticking noise goes away. But at
idle,
it's there.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:21:06 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve lash.
You might try changing brands of oil. I usually run Amsoil but have also
run
Mobil 1 without much ticking.
I wouldn't recommend any additives. Keeping it topped off also seems
to
help.
I don't think the manual calls for anything much above 10w40 but being
in
Texas, I wonder how 20w50 would do in it? Might get less tick...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Hi all.
>
> I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle,
I have a nerve racking
> ticking noise. From the information I have been
able to get from the
> Team3S archives, this may be diagnosed as valve
lash. My question is
> should I get the valve adjusters replaced or is the
ticking noise non
> damaging to the engine? I have read all about the
changing the oil and
> using a additive to quiet down the ticking but have
learned that this is
> a temporary fix. I currently use a 10-30w synthetic
oil. I have found
> that when I rev the engine, the ticking noise goes
away. But at idle,
> it's there.
>
> Anyone have any
suggestions?
>
> Regards,
> --
> Matt Costanza
>
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:59:37 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve lash.
I have learned to live with the tick after ten years.
The one thing that
does seem to help besides the
obvious, good oil, is the factory oil filter,
when I
use some other brand the ticking is quite a bit more
obvious. It
only bothers me when I lift the hood, so
if you don't lift the hood it should
be all right.
------------------------------
> Buy a stealth they are cheaper and the same thing,
> only better
looking!
That's debatable, but not here...
> TT RT up graded Euro turbos, plus you can call
> them a Dodge
and get a big break on insurance.
You lost me here... Upgraded Euro turbos? The Stealths (ALL of
them) came
with 9b turbos - same as the VR4s here in the States.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
> I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle, I have
> a nerve
racking ticking noise.
There's TONS of information in the list Archives... Including
fixes. It
doesn't really hurt anything, but it may cause some loss of
performance if
it ticks while driving.
There's also a FAQ on it, although it isn't as complete as the
Archive
information.
There isn't much more to be said about it that hasn't been said
already.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:44:07 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: accelrator cable (pettle side)
I have to disconect the cable in order to remove my
rear turbo. the
problem is the service manual picture
11-25 looks far different then what it
looks like in
the car. It is a coiled up spring type affair wraped
around
the back of the pettle rod. Can anyone who has
done this fill me in on the
trick.
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:00:29 -0800
From: ChaosCat <
chaoscat@plazma.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Noise
I'm new to the list.. just bought a 1992 Dodge Stealth RT two weeks
ago,
took it to Dodge to have them replace the timing belt (as I had no
previous
history on the car) and after having my car there for 2 days they
told me
the belt didnt need to be replaced, and that the car had recently had
a
tune up, blah blah...
well, I got my car back and there is a thumping noise coming from
the
engine on the drivers side. Dodge says they didnt do it-and they dont
know
what it is.
Anyone here have an idea? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Cat
ICQ# 4096904
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 02:14:55 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Noise
They probably messed something up at reinstalling the cover after
inspecting
the belt.
Try to locate the nosie as close as possible. Also check if the
noise
changes when revving it up as well as when engaging or disengaging
the
clutch. You must provide us with a little bit more detailed information
like
when the noise appears, during driving, at idle, and so on.
> well, I got my car back and there is a thumping noise coming from
the
> engine on the drivers side. Dodge says they didnt do it-and they
dont know
> what it is.
>
> Anyone here have an idea? Any help
would be greatly appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:55:03 -0800
From: ChaosCat <
chaoscat@plazma.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine Noise
We already looked at that-the cover was fine. (we took it off and looked
at
it)
it kinda goes with the engine as it revs and either gets drowned out
or
quits at higher rpms-its heard the most when idliing.
At 02:14 AM 2/19/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>They probably messed
something up at reinstalling the cover after inspecting
>the
belt.
>
>Try to locate the nosie as close as possible. Also check if
the noise
>changes when revving it up as well as when engaging or
disengaging the
>clutch. You must provide us with a little bit more
detailed information like
>when the noise appears, during driving, at
idle, and so on.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>> well, I got my car back and there is a
thumping noise coming from the
>> engine on the drivers side. Dodge
says they didnt do it-and they dont know
>> what it
is.
>>
>> Anyone here have an idea? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
ICQ# 4096904
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#757
***************************************
