Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, February 18 2002   Volume 01 : Number 757
 
 
 

----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 20:25:03 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
 
Has anyone replaced theirs?  Any tricks or shortcuts to getting it out?  The
service manual pretty much has you take the whole brake system out, and then
the clutch pedal and all the other stuff under the dash.  Any hints?
 
Mine is leaking a little fluid out of the rubber boot, and it makes a
whining sound when over 15 psi of boost.  Clutch action is really stiff, so
I'm assuming the booster is shot.  The check-valve in the vacuum feeder line
from the intake plenum is working properly.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:53:43 -0600
From: "Marvin Rubenking" <mr54043@alltel.net>
Subject: Team3S: Car won't start, please help!
 
I am new to the list, I will keep this as short as I can, please help I am
without a vehicle!
 
A week ago in the evening I started my car and moved it a short distance to
a flat spot to check my oil.  The next morning it would not start.  The
dealer told me that I probably flooded it and I would have to remove the
plugs clean and reinstall.  It was time for new ones anyway, so I replaced
the plugs, wires, and fuel filter while I was at it.  It still won't start.
I checked the fuel pump and pressure regulating valve, all seem to be ok.  I
also pulled a plug again it appears there is gas getting to the cylinders, I
then checked the timing per this site, looks good.  The thing will turn over
great, but will not fire off. This is a 91 3000GT SL (Pearl White) with
110,000 miles.  It is my every day driver.  I only have one dealer where I
live in Nebraska and they pissed me off so I really don't want to take it to
them, plus I am not sure I can afford it!  What am I missing, please help,
it would be greatly appreciated!  This has been an excellent car for the
five years and 60K I have owned it.
 
Thanks,
Marvin Rubenking
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 20:17:06 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Car won't start, please help!
 
My stealth had a problem once and it turned out to be
the little black wire going to the battery was
corroded through, but it looked good. I spliced on
some
more length and reconnected it and it worked fine.
This is just a simple thing to check out prior to full
fledged panic. One other time my fuel pump went out,
just like that without warning, the dealer wanted $900
to fix it but it was failry simple and a new pump is
only $125 and you can change it with the right tools
in about half a hour. The dealer siad I had to take
out the tank but that was wrong. You should be able to
check this with the computer on the car. There are
links to computer code on the FAQ pages. Maybe someone
knows the code could post the message number and pins
to read it.

Peter
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 22:56:19 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Car won't start, please help!
 
I also had some similar problems one time when I was putting my car back
together...
 
My problem was spark plug wires in the wrong places...  (read the manual
wrong)... 
 
Also, you could have a bad ECU...  that would seem to be another common
problem keeping it from starting...  Check to see if the car is firing
(check the spark plugs)...  The easy way to do this is to remove a
sparkplug from the front bank (the farthest driver side plug works the
best cause it has the longest spark plug wire)  Once it is removed, have
someone attempt to start the car while holding the bottom of the spark
plug to the metal chassis (ground it)...   Make sure you hold it by the
spark plug boot, as you don't wanna shock the crap out of yourself...
If you see spark, then you can rule out the possibility of at least one
bad coil pack, and you can try the other coil packs this way also...
just disconnect one spark plug wire from each one, and attach the
removed one to it and check for spark also...  My bet is that you don't
get spark...  If this is so, check the operation of the coil packs
first, and if they check out, I would bet that it is the ECU...  I had
an ECU go bad... mine was caused by a shorted out ISC motor, which
caused it to not fire the coil packs at all...
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of menalteed
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 10:17 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Re: Car won't start, please help!
 
My stealth had a problem once and it turned out to be
the little black wire going to the battery was
corroded through, but it looked good. I spliced on
some
more length and reconnected it and it worked fine.
This is just a simple thing to check out prior to full
fledged panic. One other time my fuel pump went out,
just like that without warning, the dealer wanted $900
to fix it but it was failry simple and a new pump is
only $125 and you can change it with the right tools
in about half a hour. The dealer siad I had to take
out the tank but that was wrong. You should be able to
check this with the computer on the car. There are
links to computer code on the FAQ pages. Maybe someone
knows the code could post the message number and pins
to read it.

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:12:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Kian Habib <ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
        I am planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
am not sure which year is best to buy it. I was just
wondering if anyone can give me some advice about
which year is best or what different years offer. I
would like to buy a newer one if possible because it
would be my only car but I would still buy and older
one if there are important differences. Price doesn't
matter and I am also planning on doing after market
work. Please e-mail me with any thoughts and ideas
about what I should do. Thank you so much.
                                           ~Kian~
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 23:19:57 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything -- active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had its
60,000 mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
 
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
 
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib wrote:
>        I am planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:28:58 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
As far as differences go aside from the later models
not having things like ECS, the two major differences
that I can think of are
 
1. Stock, the 91-93 3/S are @ 300 HP, vs. the 320 HP
for the later models
2. Currently, there is no datalogger available for 94+
model years (though I'm working on that one :)
 
There are minor differences like the one I mentioned
before - there is a listing somewhere, but as far as I
can remember, the later models started getting rid of
ECS (electronic suspension control) and the 4ws system.
 
BTW, I'm selling my '95 VR4 - if ur interested, lemme
know off list, i'll send some pics.
 
  Alex.
>         I am planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
> am not sure which year is best to buy it. I was just
> wondering if anyone can give me some advice about
> which year is best or what different years offer. I
> would like to buy a newer one if possible because it
> would be my only car but I would still buy and older
> one if there are important differences. Price doesn't
> matter and I am also planning on doing after market
> work. Please e-mail me with any thoughts and ideas
> about what I should do. Thank you so much.
>                                            ~Kian~
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:56:30 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
the '95 ECU. If someone has the ecu out and could look
send me any IDs off the chip or if someone flat out has
the info, please let me know.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Alex.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 01:30:31 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Definitely a 94 for all the gadgets but a 91-93 is best for aftermarket
tuning because of the ECU (unless you just replace it with a Motec
engine management system then you can take any one of them).  6-speed is
great for cruising but 5-speed covers the same range of rpm/mph in one
less gear so that is better-suited for the track some feel.
 
I'm just happy you are getting a 3/S car.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 00:20
 

A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything -- active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had
its
60,000 mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
 
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib wrote:
>        I am planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 02:02:50 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
 
FYI, if you go to Sears for an alignment remind them that our car is
listed under the "Difficult Alignment" section or else they will set you
up with the FWD or 2-wheel alignment.  For $90 they will to the
four-wheel (or say they can) but when they type it in to a computer it
won't light the green button to do it automatically.  That means they
are too dumb to figure it out on their own from a book of specs.  In
other words, don't go to Sears.  Or if you do -- warn them ahead of time
to read the book.
 
I had one mechanic tell me the rear camber was not adjustable.  I know
that is wrong obviously and told him to find it.  After 15 minutes of
looking under the car of everything he shrugged and said they did the
best they could.  Expletives deleted here ... and conclusion is I won't
go back.  Sure it was $90 and got close to stock I can take it to my
tuning shop and for $100 an hour get it done the way I like.
 
Just get intimate with it so you can explain it when they can't find
these eccentric bolts, the all-wheel steering mechanisms, etc.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR04
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 19:50
 
If you lowered the car and didn't get an alignment you've got a
potential
mess for an alignment. The biggest changes are camber and toe --- if
you're
running excessive camber and toe in you'll get weird wear patterns and
weird handling.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:59:39 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
A Motorla deriverat from Mitsubishi. No number on it that helps anything.

> I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
> the '95 ECU. If someone has the ecu out and could look
> send me any IDs off the chip or if someone flat out has
> the info, please let me know.
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 04:29:24 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: SpeedBleeder
 
Does anyone know what SpeedBleeders, if any, fit the front second gen
stock calipers?  The list below is confusing.  On the Stealth AWD how is
the first entry different from the second?
 
Also, on the 3000GT is that saying the VR-4 has a different caliper than
the FWD one?  I thought they were the same.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Dodge
   92-96 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB3824
   92-96 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
 
   92-96 Stealth AWD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
   92-96 Stealth AWD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
 
   91 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
   91 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010

http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Mitsubishi
   91-93 3000GT 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
   91-93 3000GT 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB7100
 
   91-93 2WD 3000GT front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
   91-93 2WD 3000GT rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and in need of some more SpeedBleeders

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 23:05:29 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
Allready been there done that. I can't get any datasheets for any chips in
it except for the output drivers. They are available from most suppliers.
 
Steve
 
> I'm trying to figure out what type of processor is in
> the '95 ECU. If someone has the ecu out and could look
> send me any IDs off the chip or if someone flat out has
> the info, please let me know.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:40:58 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Have to question this suggestion just for a minute guys....
 
Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better???  I mean, weight
savings can be very important when racing, even auto-X....   How much
weight does all that extra stuff add...  active exhaust and its
controllers/ motors, active aero and its motors/actuators, and ECS
too...
 
According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest VR4 produced
(well, up to '96, cause the service manual I have doesn't cover
'97-'00)....
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 12:31 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Definitely a 94 for all the gadgets but a 91-93 is best for aftermarket
tuning because of the ECU (unless you just replace it with a Motec
engine management system then you can take any one of them).  6-speed is
great for cruising but 5-speed covers the same range of rpm/mph in one
less gear so that is better-suited for the track some feel.
 
I'm just happy you are getting a 3/S car.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 00:20

A 94, of course. It's the only one that has everything -- active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big brakes.
Be certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the 6-speed
breaks its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has had
its
60,000 mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
 
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib wrote:
>        I am planning on buying a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy it.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:43:52 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
 
Found a cool place down the road from me here in San Antonio, guys are
real cool...  Anyways...  for $89, they'll align your car for the rest
of its life no matter what...   They know what they are doing, and they
will also take your recommendations as to how to set the camber and
such...  The place is a chain called Brake Check, and I think the key to
working with these places is just finding one that has some employees
that are willing to work with you...
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 1:03 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
 
FYI, if you go to Sears for an alignment remind them that our car is
listed under the "Difficult Alignment" section or else they will set you
up with the FWD or 2-wheel alignment.  For $90 they will to the
four-wheel (or say they can) but when they type it in to a computer it
won't light the green button to do it automatically.  That means they
are too dumb to figure it out on their own from a book of specs.  In
other words, don't go to Sears.  Or if you do -- warn them ahead of time
to read the book.
 
I had one mechanic tell me the rear camber was not adjustable.  I know
that is wrong obviously and told him to find it.  After 15 minutes of
looking under the car of everything he shrugged and said they did the
best they could.  Expletives deleted here ... and conclusion is I won't
go back.  Sure it was $90 and got close to stock I can take it to my
tuning shop and for $100 an hour get it done the way I like.
 
Just get intimate with it so you can explain it when they can't find
these eccentric bolts, the all-wheel steering mechanisms, etc.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR04
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 19:50
 
If you lowered the car and didn't get an alignment you've got a
potential
mess for an alignment. The biggest changes are camber and toe --- if
you're
running excessive camber and toe in you'll get weird wear patterns and
weird handling.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:49:13 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SpeedBleeder
 
Darren,
 
SB1010s...mine are SB1010s all the way around.  Some have smaller ones in
the rear(SB7100s), but all TT/VR4s that I've seen have had SB1010s up front.
 
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

>From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
>Reply-To: <dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: SpeedBleeder
>Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 04:29:24 -0500
>
>Does anyone know what SpeedBleeders, if any, fit the front second gen
>stock calipers?  The list below is confusing.  On the Stealth AWD how is
>the first entry different from the second?
>
>Also, on the 3000GT is that saying the VR-4 has a different caliper than
>the FWD one?  I thought they were the same.
>
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Dodge
>    92-96 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB3824
>    92-96 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>
>    92-96 Stealth AWD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>    92-96 Stealth AWD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>
>    91 Stealth 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>    91 Stealth 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Mitsubishi
>    91-93 3000GT 4WD front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>    91-93 3000GT 4WD rear SpeedBleeder part # SB7100
>
>    91-93 2WD 3000GT front SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>    91-93 2WD 3000GT rear SpeedBleeder part # SB1010
>
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4 and in need of some more SpeedBleeders

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:21:04 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
 
I have replaced my clutch booster on my '93VR4.  It is a PITA, but you don't
have to completely remove the brake system.  If I recall, I had to loosen
the brake booster to get access to the clutch booster at the firewall.  You
don't have to remove the pedals or steering wheel.  If you can take the
front seat out, it'll be easier, and raise the car.  I had to work laying
upside down in the front seat.
 
Chuck Willis
 
BTW, I still have the old one I took out, if you want to compare it to
yours.
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 8:25 PM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
>
> Has anyone replaced theirs?  Any tricks or shortcuts to getting it out?
> The
> service manual pretty much has you take the whole brake system out, and
> then
> the clutch pedal and all the other stuff under the dash.  Any hints?
>
> Mine is leaking a little fluid out of the rubber boot, and it makes a
> whining sound when over 15 psi of boost.  Clutch action is really stiff,
> so
> I'm assuming the booster is shot.  The check-valve in the vacuum feeder
> line
> from the intake plenum is working properly.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:08:45 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Booster swap?
 
> I have replaced my clutch booster on my '93VR4.  It
> is a PITA, but you don't have to completely remove
> the brake system.  If I recall, I had to loosen
> the brake booster to get access to the clutch
> booster at the firewall.  You don't have to remove
> the pedals or steering wheel.  If you can take the
> front seat out, it'll be easier, and raise the car.
> I had to work laying upside down in the front seat.
 
The car is still up on stands with the motor out, so the engine bay portion
should be a piece of cake...  I did think about taking the driver's seat out
- - but unfortunately my car won't power up far enough with all the guts taken
out so I can't move the seat forward to get at the rear mounting nuts.
Damn!
 
Thanks for the info, it'll help a lot just in knowing that it'll come out
without disconnecting the brake lines and pedal assemblies!
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:11:24 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: 2002 Auto Show pics
 
For thoose of you who didn't get a chance to visit the 2002 Chicago Auto
Show, I took some pics and posted them on my site under the Miscellaneous
menu - http://www.daveblack.net/asp/2002AutoShow.asp
 
site is best viewed with IE5 or better.
 
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:18:15 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
 
Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation everything is good
except for my turn signals which do not work.  When the turn signal arm is
engaged up or down there is no turn signal on either the cluster panel or
the actual turn lamps at the corners.
 
1. I have checked the fuse and it is fine
2. The other functions on the turn signal arm still work (parking lights,
lights, and brights)
3. The harness for the turn signal arm was still connected under the dash
4. The arm still makes the "click" noise when engaged but there is no light
on the dash or the signal lamps
 
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?  TIA.
 
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:21:23 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
 
Maybe something to do with the hazard flasher ????????
 
        Jim Berry
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>

> Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation everything is good
> except for my turn signals which do not work.  When the turn signal arm is
> engaged up or down there is no turn signal on either the cluster panel or
> the actual turn lamps at the corners.
>
> 1. I have checked the fuse and it is fine
> 2. The other functions on the turn signal arm still work (parking lights,
> lights, and brights)
> 3. The harness for the turn signal arm was still connected under the dash
> 4. The arm still makes the "click" noise when engaged but there is no light
> on the dash or the signal lamps
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:38:55 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
 
I did forget to mention that I put the dash together EXCEPT for the center
air vents which include the switch for the hazard lights.  Is this required
for the turn signals to work?  I guess I can see the correlation since they
operate the turn signals in hazard mode.  I will give that a try tonight.
 
Thanks Jim!  Whew, thought I f'ed something up!  Gotta love those simple
issues.
 
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:21 AM
> To: Black, Dave (ICT); stealth@starnet.net; Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
>
> Maybe something to do with the hazard flasher ????????
>
>         Jim Berry
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
>
>
> > Well, after replacing my dash for gauge face installation everything is
> good
> > except for my turn signals which do not work.  When the turn signal arm
> is
> > engaged up or down there is no turn signal on either the cluster panel
> or
> > the actual turn lamps at the corners.
> >
> > 1. I have checked the fuse and it is fine
> > 2. The other functions on the turn signal arm still work (parking
> lights,
> > lights, and brights)
> > 3. The harness for the turn signal arm was still connected under the
> dash
> > 4. The arm still makes the "click" noise when engaged but there is no
> light
> > on the dash or the signal lamps
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:53:06 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Turn signals no longer work
 
That reminds me, when I reinstalled my instrument panel the "Tour" light for
the ECS stopped working.  "Sport" still shows up though.  Any ideas on this
one?
 
Christopher

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:34:50 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
What do the output drivers do?
 
Also, from what I've read OBDII allows manufactures to include additional
proprietary sensor readings.  Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock
on any 3S '94 and up?  (that is, did Mitsubishi include a proprietary sensor
reading for knock?)
 
Christopher
 
> Allready been there done that. I can't get any datasheets for any chips in
> it except for the output drivers. They are available from most suppliers.
>
> Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:09:34 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S: high speed gauge shot
 
In anticipation of my upcoming move from Germany to England, I decided to get a shot of my dash
gauges at speed on the Autobahn while I still have the chance to drive fast legally.  Of all the
shots I took, only one came out (the others were too fuzzy, too dark, aimed wrong, etc. - pretty
scary!), not at the fastest speed but close enough (164 mph).  If anyone cares, it's on my web page
(just above the Vehicle Comparison section.  The URL for the picture itself is
http://www.the-matthews.com/images/STEALTH/164mph.jpg.
 
BTW, if you're wondering about the fuel level vs. trip odometer (230 miles with a little over a
quarter tank left), I get about 24 mpg at sane speeds and about 18 mpg at insane speeds.  :-)
 
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com
 
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:14:02 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
Yes, it displays knock.
 
> Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock on any 3S '94 and up?
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:25:58 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
>> Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock
>> on any 3S '94 and up?
 
> Yes, it displays knock.
 
Yeah, a while back some of us tried to pool together some cash and purchase
one that was for sale on eBay, but our bid got outbid and we didn't get it.
If I could get my hands on one, I could probably figure out the code to
retrieve knock sum.  Alex Peper (the guy who makes one of the OBD-II
scantools) said he could add the code into his logger if we figured it out.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:50:49 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: '95 ECU
 
Yeah, Kenneth Ellis told me that story (or a similar story) on 3Si a few
months ago.  That really sucks.
 
Does anyone know the guy who won it?  Wonder if he'd let it be used for
research?
 
Anybody else know how to get one?
 
Since everyone seems to agree the stock knock sensor on the first gens is
the best you can get, I think putting some effort into getting a MUT-II
would be a worth while cause; although not quite as cool as Bob Fontana's
quest to get replacement transmissions parts for the 5 speed:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57924
 
Christopher
 
> Yeah, a while back some of us tried to pool together some cash
> and purchase
> one that was for sale on eBay, but our bid got outbid and we
> didn't get it.
> If I could get my hands on one, I could probably figure out the code to
> retrieve knock sum.  Alex Peper (the guy who makes one of the OBD-II
> scantools) said he could add the code into his logger if we
> figured it out.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:08:55 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
 
They say this comes WITH computer to run it.
In that case I would say the 40-50% may just be true, although more info on
fuel delivery may be needed to support that. I gues the 'inline' six pack
must be a 90deg job to fit under the hood for Mitsu engines?
 
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm
NEW LOW PRICE ON SIX THROTTLE BODIES SYSTEMS
Six Pack Twin Manifold  Throttle Body including haltech computer  $2,210.00
for Chrysler & Dodge & Plymouth  40 to 50% HP Gain
With Core
 
FOR THE  2.5 & 3.0 V6
Six Pack Inline Throttle Body System including Computer $2,210.00 For
Mitsubishi  40 to 50% HP Gain
With Core
 
Kurt
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Toy [mailto:LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 1:00 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body

Guys,
I've been dangling the thought of what to do with $2500 in mods for a
while. I just recently discovered a 6 pack throttle body, from rpw which
claims a 40 to 50%hp increase. I'm still a little sketchy if its
credible, but it is I'll definitely go for it.
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm
Check out the above site, the info is there. Please let me know what
your thoughts are on it.
Thanks,
Jason
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:14:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
 
40-50% more power with an intake of any type is way speculative.
 
Get a car with a decent head design, and the worst intake in the
world..and then maybe you can say that.
 
On a 3s..not buyin it.
 
On Mon, 18 Feb 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
 
> They say this comes WITH computer to run it.
> In that case I would say the 40-50% may just be true, although more info on
> fuel delivery may be needed to support that. I gues the 'inline' six pack
> must be a 90deg job to fit under the hood for Mitsu engines?
>
> http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm
> NEW LOW PRICE ON SIX THROTTLE BODIES SYSTEMS
> Six Pack Twin Manifold  Throttle Body including haltech computer  $2,210.00
> for Chrysler & Dodge & Plymouth  40 to 50% HP Gain
> With Core
>
> FOR THE  2.5 & 3.0 V6
> Six Pack Inline Throttle Body System including Computer $2,210.00 For
> Mitsubishi  40 to 50% HP Gain
> With Core
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Toy [mailto:LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
>
> Guys,
> I've been dangling the thought of what to do with $2500 in mods for a
> while. I just recently discovered a 6 pack throttle body, from rpw which
> claims a 40 to 50%hp increase. I'm still a little sketchy if its
> credible, but it is I'll definitely go for it.
> http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htm
> Check out the above site, the info is there. Please let me know what
> your thoughts are on it.
> Thanks,
> Jason
- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:13:30
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2002 Auto Show pics
 
I also have some pictures from the show.
 
http://icdweb.cc.purdue.edu/~kumbrei1/ChicagoAuto
 
Dave, the ????? Ferrari is the 456GT, the Lotus Elan as you have labeled is
really the Elise, and the teal Lamborghini is the Diablo and not the
Countach.  But we won't hold that against you :)  Nice Pics!!!
 
- --Kevin Umbreit
'91 R/T
 
>For thoose of you who didn't get a chance to visit the 2002 Chicago Auto
>Show, I took some pics and posted them on my site under the Miscellaneous
>menu - http://www.daveblack.net/asp/2002AutoShow.asp
>
>site is best viewed with IE5 or better.
>
>Dave 95VR4
>http://www.daveblack.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:30:23 -0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: 6-pack
 
What is your reason to want to put a 6 pack on your car?
Street or Strip?
40 to 50% more hp-maybe. If you think you are going to get 111hp from a n/t
maybe so, but no air cleaner will cost you $ in rebuilding very soon. also
the cost of $2500 isn't a bargain.
You can install a turbo for that cost and have the same hp increase with out
fooling with trying to keep a 6 pack tuned. If you already have a t/t forget
a 6 pack.
Sure 6 pack sounds cool and looks sharpe but there is more to istalling and
turning the key.  Hey what ever you decide good luck.
Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:11:45 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Well sure it is nice to have all those gadgets NOT on the car but
remember that some of us drive 15 hours just to GET to the track.
Sometimes then it is nice to have ECS and fun to show off to the "kids"
at the track with the moving Aero wing.
 
But I prefer the look of the one-piece hood (94-96) instead of the one
with pods glued on to it.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 07:41
 
Have to question this suggestion just for a minute guys....
 
Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better???  I mean, weight
savings can be very important when racing, even auto-X....   How much
weight does all that extra stuff add...  active exhaust and its
controllers/ motors, active aero and its motors/actuators, and ECS
too...
 
According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest VR4 produced
(well, up to '96, cause the service manual I have doesn't cover
'97-'00)....

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:00:39 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
> Wouldn't a car ~without~ all of this stuff be better???
> I mean, weight savings can be very important when racing,
> even auto-X....   How much weight does all that extra
> stuff add...  active exhaust and its controllers/ motors,
> active aero and its motors/actuators, and ECS too...
 
Active exhaust gets ripped off the car by anyone serious about performance.
The factory cat-back usually goes in the garbage can as one of the first
things.  Active Aero is probably a reasonably good amount of weight (40
pounds, maybe, for the motors and actuators and hardware?).  ECS doesn't
really weigh any more since you need shocks anyways - its just a small motor
that changes the damping bypass hole size.  There's probably a bit of weight
for the angular velocity sensors and all that stuff for ECS, but I doubt it
adds up to much weight.
 
> According to the service manual, the '96 is the lightest
> VR4 produced (well, up to '96, cause the service manual
> I have doesn't cover '97-'00)....
 
3803 for a '94 VR4
3781 for a '95 VR4 (loses Active Exhaust)
3737 for a '97 VR4 (loses ECS and Active Aero in 1996)
 
If that's right, then theoretically Active Exhaust adds 22 pounds and ECS
and Active Aero together are 44 pounds.
 
I don't think I'd call that significantly more weight - at least not enough
of a difference to choose one year over another.  The 44 pound difference is
a change in weight of only 2% - not enough to notice on a 3800 pound car.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:09:53 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
I agree... so... basically, and after-'94 vr4 is the one to buy if you
want it as new as possible...  the only big thing '91-'93 have going for
it is the datalogging capabilities...  Hell, get a '99 if you can find
one / afford it...
 
- -Cody
 
I don't think I'd call that significantly more weight - at least not
enough
of a difference to choose one year over another.  The 44 pound
difference is
a change in weight of only 2% - not enough to notice on a 3800 pound
car.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:18:09 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Some 95 VR-4 models also lose ECS.  Mine does not have Active Exhaust or
ECS so I don't know what the true weight of it is or what the weight of
3,781# includes.
 
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 (mfg in 11/1994)
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 15:01
 
3803# for a '94 VR4
3781# for a '95 VR4 (loses Active Exhaust)
3737# for a '97 VR4 (loses ECS and Active Aero in 1996)
 
If that's right, then theoretically Active Exhaust adds 22 pounds and
ECS
and Active Aero together are 44 pounds.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:12:29 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: Group buy for white/indoglo gauge faces - one spot still open
 
I still have one spot open for the NR Auto White or Indiglo gauge face group
buy.  Please let me know ASAP if you are interested.
 
Details are:
 
* AMEX is accepted
* Indiglo is NOT available for 94+ SL models.  Something to do with
the way the pins are located on the faces.  So, if you've ordered that
please let me know what you want to do.
* Indiglo has a switch for blue or green so you do not have to select
the color for Indiglo.
* if you still want one, send the following to dblai@allstate.com:
1. name on credit card
2. CC billing address
3. CC billing phone
4. year of car
5. model of car
6. white face or Indiglo
 
Cost is $115 + $6 shipping.
 
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:17:34 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: [none]
 
RE: Team3S: what to buy!?
 
Buy a stealth they are cheaper and the same thing,
only better looking! My 92 has the facotry sun roof,
plus everything else you could put on it. AWD,AWS,
five speed, much better then the six speed and not as
much trouble. TT RT up graded Euro turbos, plus you
can call them a Dodge and get a big break on
insurance. Only thing is Dodge dosn't know anything
about fixing them except charging three times what the
repair is worth.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:09:07 -0600
From: Matt Costanza <mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Valve lash.
 
Hi all.
 
I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle, I have a nerve racking
ticking noise. From the information I have been able to get from the
Team3S archives, this may be diagnosed as valve lash. My question is
should I get the valve adjusters replaced or is the ticking noise non
damaging to the engine? I have read all about the changing the oil and
using a additive to quiet down the ticking but have learned that this is
a temporary fix. I currently use a 10-30w synthetic oil. I have found
that when I rev the engine, the ticking noise goes away. But at idle,
it's there.
 
Anyone have any suggestions?
 
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:21:06 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve lash.
 
You might try changing brands of oil. I usually run Amsoil but have also run
Mobil 1 without much ticking.
 
I wouldn't recommend any additives. Keeping it topped off also seems to
help.
 
I don't think the manual calls for anything much above 10w40 but being in
Texas, I wonder how 20w50 would do in it? Might get less tick...
 
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
 
on 2/18/02 15:09, Matt Costanza at mcostanza@austin.rr.com scribbled:
 
> Hi all.
>
> I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle, I have a nerve racking
> ticking noise. From the information I have been able to get from the
> Team3S archives, this may be diagnosed as valve lash. My question is
> should I get the valve adjusters replaced or is the ticking noise non
> damaging to the engine? I have read all about the changing the oil and
> using a additive to quiet down the ticking but have learned that this is
> a temporary fix. I currently use a 10-30w synthetic oil. I have found
> that when I rev the engine, the ticking noise goes away. But at idle,
> it's there.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Regards,
> --
> Matt Costanza
> Austin, Tx USA
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:59:37 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve lash.
 
I have learned to live with the tick after ten years.
The one thing that does seem to help besides the
obvious, good oil, is the factory oil filter, when I
use some other brand the ticking is quite a bit more
obvious. It only bothers me when I lift the hood, so
if you don't lift the hood it should be all right.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:20:26 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
 
> Buy a stealth they are cheaper and the same thing,
> only better looking!
 
That's debatable, but not here...
 
> TT RT up graded Euro turbos, plus you can call
> them a Dodge and get a big break on insurance.
 
You lost me here...  Upgraded Euro turbos?  The Stealths (ALL of them) came
with 9b turbos - same as the VR4s here in the States.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:24:57 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Valve lash.
 
> I have a 97 3000gt SL. When the car is idle, I have
> a nerve racking ticking noise.
 
There's TONS of information in the list Archives...  Including fixes.  It
doesn't really hurt anything, but it may cause some loss of performance if
it ticks while driving.
 
http://www.team3s.com/Search.htm
 
There's also a FAQ on it, although it isn't as complete as the Archive
information.
 
http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htm
 
There isn't much more to be said about it that hasn't been said already.
:-)
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:44:07 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: accelrator cable (pettle side)
 
I have to disconect the cable in order to remove my
rear turbo. the problem is the service manual picture
11-25 looks far different then what it looks like in
the car. It is a coiled up spring type affair wraped
around the back of the pettle rod. Can anyone who has
done this fill me in on the trick.
 
Peter
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:00:29 -0800
From: ChaosCat <chaoscat@plazma.net>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Noise
 
I'm new to the list.. just bought a 1992 Dodge Stealth RT two weeks ago,
took it to Dodge to have them replace the timing belt (as I had no previous
history on the car) and after having my car there for 2 days they told me
the belt didnt need to be replaced, and that the car had recently had a
tune up, blah blah...
 
well, I got my car back and there is a thumping noise coming from the
engine on the drivers side. Dodge says they didnt do it-and they dont know
what it is.
 
Anyone here have an idea? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
thanks,
Cat
 
ICQ# 4096904
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 02:14:55 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Noise
 
They probably messed something up at reinstalling the cover after inspecting
the belt.
 
Try to locate the nosie as close as possible. Also check if the noise
changes when revving it up as well as when engaging or disengaging the
clutch. You must provide us with a little bit more detailed information like
when the noise appears, during driving, at idle, and so on.
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> well, I got my car back and there is a thumping noise coming from the
> engine on the drivers side. Dodge says they didnt do it-and they dont know
> what it is.
>
> Anyone here have an idea? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:55:03 -0800
From: ChaosCat <chaoscat@plazma.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Noise
 
We already looked at that-the cover was fine. (we took it off and looked at
it)
 
it kinda goes with the engine as it revs and either gets drowned out or
quits at higher rpms-its heard the most when idliing.
 
At 02:14 AM 2/19/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>They probably messed something up at reinstalling the cover after inspecting
>the belt.
>
>Try to locate the nosie as close as possible. Also check if the noise
>changes when revving it up as well as when engaging or disengaging the
>clutch. You must provide us with a little bit more detailed information like
>when the noise appears, during driving, at idle, and so on.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>> well, I got my car back and there is a thumping noise coming from the
>> engine on the drivers side. Dodge says they didnt do it-and they dont know
>> what it is.
>>
>> Anyone here have an idea? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ICQ# 4096904
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #757
***************************************