Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, January 7
2002 Volume 01 : Number
719
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:20:12 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic 3000GT problems
I have the same problem. I think it's
coming from the actual trunk lid. I've
never actually verified it, but it's
nice to know i'm not the only one ;)
btw, at the risk of asking a dumb
question - what's the "goose honk"?
Alex
'95 VR4 w/ a dented
wheel
<snip>
> I am MOST curious about this as well. I
have a definite squeak (not a
> rattle) in the back right of my car.
It is most prevalent in the cold
> and I can't seem to pin-point what it
is. I unhooked the cargo cover
> and that was not it. I
removed it. Still squeaks. It sounds like it
> is where the
rear seatback meets the car and the vinyl/pleather is
> rubbing against
plastic or more vinyl. I also have compounded this by
> having the
rollbar rub against the edge of the rear speaker holes in the
> vinyl side
panels. I put some towels between this area that rubbed and
>
thought I still heard it. Anyone else have this sound? Mind is
inside
> and not an outside sound. Maybe that is different than the
one in
> question here.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with
Blizzaks all around
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Luckyslug@aol.com> Sent: Saturday,
January 05, 2002 16:19
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 17:35:12
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic 3000GT problems
I also have that squeak. Probably some
plastic part rubs against something
every time the car hits a bump. I did
not get to fixing it yet.
The goose honk can come from the intake when
you have anything other than
the stock airbox. One day I removed my airbox
and heard it. It happened
couple times, lasted less than a second and it was
hard to repeat.
Philip
At 04:20 PM 01/06/02, Alex Pedenko
wrote:
>I have the same problem. I think it's coming from the actual trunk
lid. I've
>never actually verified it, but it's nice to know i'm not the
only one ;)
>
>btw, at the risk of asking a dumb question - what's
the "goose honk"?
>
>Alex
>
>'95 VR4 w/ a dented
wheel
>
><snip>
> > I am MOST curious about this as
well. I have a definite squeak (not a
> > rattle) in the back
right of my car. It is most prevalent in the cold
> > and I can't
seem to pin-point what it is. I unhooked the cargo cover
> > and
that was not it. I removed it. Still squeaks. It sounds like
it
> > is where the rear seatback meets the car and the vinyl/pleather
is
> > rubbing against plastic or more vinyl. I also have
compounded this by
> > having the rollbar rub against the edge of the
rear speaker holes in the
> > vinyl side panels. I put some
towels between this area that rubbed and
> > thought I still heard
it. Anyone else have this sound? Mind is inside
> > and not
an outside sound. Maybe that is different than the one in
> >
question here.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4 with
Blizzaks all around
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:11:10
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basic 3000GT problems
Well I had a squeak coming from the
back hatch a thin application of a
silicon based lubrication to the dry seal
fixed it. And the "goose honk" is
from using the K&N FIPK on the turbo'ed
cars. The FIPK allows you to hear
the turbo bleed off under full boost and
the release of the pressurized air
when you let off the throttle. I love that
sound, anyone know how to make it
a bit louder ;)....
Eric -92
VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Sunday,
January 06, 2002 4:20 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
TEAM3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Basic 3000GT problems
I have the same problem. I think
it's coming from the actual trunk lid. I've
never actually verified it, but
it's nice to know i'm not the only one ;)
btw, at the risk of asking a
dumb question - what's the "goose honk"?
Alex
'95 VR4 w/ a dented
wheel
<snip>
> I am MOST curious about this as well. I
have a definite squeak (not a
> rattle) in the back right of my
car.
<snip>
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Blizzaks
all around
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Luckyslug@aol.com> Sent: Saturday,
January 05, 2002 16:19
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 20:47:55
-0700
From: "Derek Costen" <
heatongoal@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: pictures
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV>please send me some pictures of some
stealths. I would like to repaint mine and i wanna see wat some others look
like.
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>derek</DIV>
<DIV>94
stealth tt</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s
largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag4_etl_EN.asp'>Click
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 00:58:01
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
The only potential advantage that I could see is
that you will be verifying
the performance of your stock O2 sensors. The
readings of the additional O2
sensors could be different because they will
be cooler, but they should be
the same on both banks.
It is
interesting that our electronic fuel injection monitors both O2
sensors and
adjusts injector pulses on the two banks separately. I am
thinking that if
one sensor goes bad, than the EFI would thing that one
bank is suddenly
running rich or lean and would try to correct the injector
pulses on that
bank to fix the perceived problem. After this correction
happens, your
aftermarket A/F gauge if, if connected to the stock O2
sensors, will show
that everything is still perfect. But the additional
injectors are not
connected to the EFI, so their reading will not be
"self-adjusted" and
therefore will report a problem. I understand that this
is a very long shot.
I am pretty sure that Mitsu engineers evaluated the
accuracy and the
reliability of the stock O2 sensors and decided to let EFI
use their
readings to control the two banks separately. But you could still
install
the additional sensors, record what they say, then swap them with
each other
to see if their readings would change, and tell all of us what
happened.
;-)
Philip
At 04:33 PM 01/04/02, Gross, Erik wrote:
>I'm
contemplating adding an O2 sensor to my car to monitor the A/F with
an
>aftermarket gauge. Any reasons not to do
this?
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:07:27
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
> It is interesting that our electronic
fuel injection monitors both O2
> sensors and adjusts injector pulses on
the two banks separately. I am
OK so how do you explain the Jap market
GTOs that only use 1 O2 sensor?
Steve
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 02:49:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
With precats in place, the O2 sensors in the
downpipe cannot "verify
the performance of the stock O2 sensors." They can
monitor the
performance of the precats, which is their design function. As
I
explained in another post, with precats in place the downstream
O2
sensors output a signal that has greatly reduced amplitude
range
(smaller variation about 0.45v) and longer duration (several
seconds
per cycle instead of several cycles per second).
If an
upstream sensor goes "bad" (open or short circuit in the O2
sensor circuit),
then the ECM does not use closed loop control (see
p. 13A-32 in the '92-'96
manuals for a list of fail-safe backup
functions).
The original
question regarded installing O2 sensors in the downpipe.
This has no useful
warning or tuning purpose if the precats are in
place. With precats removed
(or gutted), O2 readings in the seperate
runner sections of the DP should be
similar to the stock "upstream"
O2 sensors, since oxygen content has not
changed in the exhaust pipe
nor has mixed yet.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- "Philip V.
Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
wrote:
> The only potential advantage that I could see is that you will
be
> verifying
> the performance of your stock O2 sensors. The
readings of the
> additional O2
> sensors could be different
because they will be cooler, but they
> should be
> the same on
both banks.
>
> It is interesting that our electronic fuel
injection monitors both
> O2
> sensors and adjusts injector pulses
on the two banks separately. I
> am
> thinking that if one sensor
goes bad, than the EFI would thing that
> one
> bank is suddenly
running rich or lean and would try to correct the
> injector
>
pulses on that bank to fix the perceived problem. After this
> correction
> happens, your aftermarket A/F gauge if, if connected to the
stock
> O2
> sensors, will show that everything is still perfect.
But the
> additional
> injectors are not connected to the EFI, so
their reading will not
> be
> "self-adjusted" and therefore will
report a problem. I understand
> that this
> is a very long shot. I
am pretty sure that Mitsu engineers
> evaluated the
> accuracy and
the reliability of the stock O2 sensors and decided to
> let EFI
>
use their readings to control the two banks separately. But you
> could
still
> install the additional sensors, record what they say, then
swap
> them with
> each other to see if their readings would
change, and tell all of
> us what
> happened. ;-)
>
>
Philip
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 07:14:51
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
At 04:49 AM 01/07/02, Jeff Lucius
wrote:
>With precats in place, the O2 sensors in the downpipe cannot
"verify
>the performance of the stock O2 sensors." They can monitor
the
>performance of the precats, which is their design function. As
I
>explained in another post, with precats in place the downstream
O2
>sensors output a signal that has greatly reduced amplitude
range
>(smaller variation about 0.45v) and longer duration (several
seconds
>per cycle instead of several cycles per second).
Eric has
a Stillen DP, so I assume he at least does not have the front
pre-cat and
probably a gutted rear.
>If an upstream sensor goes "bad" (open or
short circuit in the O2
>sensor circuit), then the ECM does not use closed
loop control (see
>p. 13A-32 in the '92-'96 manuals for a list of
fail-safe backup
>functions).
My point was about the O2 sensors
being not accurate, being completely out
of order is a different
story.
>The original question regarded installing O2 sensors in the
downpipe.
>This has no useful warning or tuning purpose if the precats are
in
>place. With precats removed (or gutted), O2 readings in the
seperate
>runner sections of the DP should be similar to the stock
"upstream"
>O2 sensors, since oxygen content has not changed in the
exhaust pipe
>nor has mixed yet.
Yes, the all the O2 readings
"should" be the same. But do you think they
are?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:32:15
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Stealth Sighting Question
Hi All,
Non-technical
question here: Over the weekend, I saw a blue Stealth with
silver "Viper
stripes" in the Fredericksburg, VA, area. Does it belong to
anyone on
this list, or anyone you know? I'm curious how much such a paint
job
costs, and if they've done any other customizing.
Please reply
"off-list". Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth
ES
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:17:06
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
cgendron@mail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic 3000GT problems
>
> Has anyone had a
problem with their windshild washer light? Mine came on one day
>
and after about a week i added fluid and it still stays on. Ive since drained
the fluid and
> refilled it just to have nothing happen. Any clues
as to fixing it? I was wondering if a
> sensor was going bad...
It might be your coolant light going on. People mix them up all
the time. They are both in the bottom right of the dash cluster. The
coolant light looks like a roman pillar and the washer light looks like a
chemistry flask.
>
> Also...has anyone figured out what
the >common steering wheel stereo controls and
> light problem
is?
I believe its a dirty connector in the steering wheel. I can't
remember the exact name for it, but people have fixed it before. Another
common problem.
>
> Maybe about why my ECS goes crazy
sometimes giving me a flashing and mostly
> flickering light
show....or just plain doesnt work at all? I completely checked the
wiring
> and everything seems perfect. weird....
A pinched
wire in the strut tower is the most common cause for this. John Adams has
a good repair section for this. This is another common
problem.
>
> Or maybe what the hell could be rattling
that sounds like its coming from the back
> right side of the car?
Usually the hatchback cover rattles the most, but could be a dozen other
plastic pieces back there.
>
> and not that i care, but
i also have the battery gauge turn single.
Everyone with a non-turbo has
that. The turn signal will draw a couple of volts when its
engaged.
Sounds like you have a bunch of very common problems with your
3/S. Searching the Team 3/S archives will net you some
fixes.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org- --
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:27:26
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
Is NOX a
brand?
Generally, we refer to Nitrous Oxide as NOS (Also a brand name),
or
Nitrous (the first part of the chemical name), or for the
technically
minded N2O.
Nitrous systems are not illegal to have or
have installed. You cannot
use them on the street though.
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of John Christian
Sent: Sunday,
January 06, 2002 2:22 PM
To: 3sTeam3S
Subject: Team3S: NOX -- Street
legal??
Hi all,
Having a debate on NOX and need an
answer.
Is having a NOX system in your car illegal?
Is using NOX
on the street illegal??
Be of good cheer in the New
Year,
John
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:29:26
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: pictures
www.3kgt.comMany many
pictures...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Derek Costen
Sent: Sunday,
January 06, 2002 9:48 PM
To:
TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.STSubject:
Team3S: pictures
please send me some pictures of some stealths. I would
like to repaint
mine and i wanna see wat some others look like.
derek
94 stealth tt
Join the world’s largest e-mail
service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:30:40
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
Cody depends on where you live,
in CT you can have the system installed and
the bottle in your
car....... but can not have the bottle connected to the
system
:/ This was as of the last time I checked (about 2 years
ago)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
overclck@ies.net
[SMTP:overclck@ies.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 10:27 AM
>
To:
JCZooM@iname.com; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
>
> Is NOX a
brand?
>
> Generally, we refer to Nitrous Oxide as NOS (Also a
brand name), or
> Nitrous (the first part of the chemical name), or for
the technically
> minded N2O.
>
> Nitrous systems are not
illegal to have or have installed. You cannot
> use them on the
street though.
>
> -Cody
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of John Christian
>
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 2:22 PM
> To: 3sTeam3S
> Subject:
Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
>
> Hi all,
>
> Having a
debate on NOX and need an answer.
>
> Is having a NOX system in
your car illegal?
>
> Is using NOX on the street illegal??
>
>
> Be of good cheer in the New Year,
> John
>
>
>
> =====
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:32:48
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
Sorry,
shoulda clarified. It can't be 100% operational, and just not
use it.
Of course, the easiest way to prove this is to have the
bottle
disconnected. (how would they know you were not using
it)???
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman,
Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 9:31
AM
To:
'overclck@ies.net'Cc:
'Team 3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
Cody depends on
where you live, in CT you can have the system installed
and
the bottle in
your car....... but can not have the bottle connected to
the
system
:/ This was as of the last time I checked (about 2 years
ago)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
overclck@ies.net
[SMTP:overclck@ies.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 10:27 AM
>
To:
JCZooM@iname.com; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
>
> Is NOX a
brand?
>
> Generally, we refer to Nitrous Oxide as NOS (Also a
brand name), or
> Nitrous (the first part of the chemical name), or for
the technically
> minded N2O.
>
> Nitrous systems are not
illegal to have or have installed. You cannot
> use them on the
street though.
>
> -Cody
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of John Christian
>
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 2:22 PM
> To: 3sTeam3S
> Subject:
Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
>
> Hi all,
>
> Having a
debate on NOX and need an answer.
>
> Is having a NOX system in
your car illegal?
>
> Is using NOX on the street illegal??
>
>
> Be of good cheer in the New Year,
> John
>
>
>
> =====
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:49:12
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NOX -- Street legal??
Or for the workaround just put a
bottle in the trunk under a blanket
(hidden if you will) and mount another
bottle next to it looking like
the "real" deal and show that it is not
connected.
Wait. I didn't just say that.
<smirk>
It's the same thing as being pulled over and while slowing
down you are
putting on your seatbelt and removing the radar detector.
Sometimes it
only counts what they can see when they stop you since it is
hard to
look into a car traveling at 120 feet per second.
Or a race
seat and race harness ... this will not pass PA inspection but
it definitely
IS safe (it passes a host of NASA, HDPE, PCA club, SCCA,
etc. checks) so you
might be legally right but will still get a citation
or a ticket.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 stock seat and restraint system again
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Cody Graham
Sent: Monday, January 07,
2002 10:33
Sorry, shoulda clarified. It can't be 100%
operational, and just not
use it. Of course, the easiest way to prove this is
to have the bottle
disconnected. (how would they know you were not
using it)???
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:20:42
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Plugs ... IGNITION !!!
Hi Matt,
On cars with the OBD
"hybrid" such as my 95 VR4, how do you suggest
measuring the ability to run a
little more boost by going with a colder
plug? (as I am unable to use a
datalogger)
TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:14
PM
> To: 'Jim Berry'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Plugs ...
IGNITION !!!
>
> The risk of plug fouling will be higher the colder
plug range you go. It
> had absolutely no effect going one range
cooler in my daily-driven Eclipse
> GSX. I'll let you know how it
goes on my 3000GT. Essentially the
> "self-cleaning" temperature
will be raised, but even on daily driven cars
> going one range colder
shouldn't cause fouling problems.
>
> You probably want to put the
pedal to the floor once in a while, but I
> assume that's the reason why
we all bought these cars in the first place.
> ;-)
>
> >
Is it useful in a daily driver ???
>
> If you've increased your
boost it might give some extra insurance to run
> one
> range
colder. It may* allow you to run a little more boost on pump gas,
>
but
> you'd need to use a datalogger to figure out if that's actually the
case.
>
> On my Eclipse it let me run another 2 psi of boost on
regular ol' pump gas
> without excessive knock (went from 17 psi to 19
psi).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:30:12
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Stock boost gauge
quick question:
My boost
guage's resting position is at the very bottom of the dial
(-7?) both when
the engine is on and off. I didn't think anything of it
until i was in a vr4
spyder w/ both the stock and aftermarket gauge - both
of which rested at 0.
Which one's messed up? I'm assuming it's mine - if
that's the case then
what's the problem?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:33:03
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock boost gauge
Alex, are we talking at idle or under
acceleration? b/c at idle my avcr
and the stock gauge both read
close -512mm/hg and -7
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 12:30 PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S:
Stock boost gauge
>
> quick question:
>
> My boost guage's resting position is at the
very bottom of the dial
> (-7?) both when the engine is on and off. I
didn't think anything of it
> until i was in a vr4 spyder w/ both the
stock and aftermarket gauge - both
> of which rested at 0. Which one's
messed up? I'm assuming it's mine - if
> that's the case then what's the
problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:35:21
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock boost gauge
Vacuum is normal for
idle conditions. (Vacuum is of course noted as
being below 0
reading).
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 11:33 AM
To: 'Alex Pedenko'
Cc: 'Team
3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock boost gauge
Alex, are we talking at
idle or under acceleration? b/c at idle my
avcr
and the stock
gauge both read close -512mm/hg and -7
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 12:30 PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S:
Stock boost gauge
>
> quick question:
>
> My boost guage's resting position is at the
very bottom of the
dial
> (-7?) both when the engine is on and off. I
didn't think anything of
it
> until i was in a vr4 spyder w/ both the
stock and aftermarket gauge -
both
> of which rested at 0. Which one's
messed up? I'm assuming it's mine -
if
> that's the case then what's
the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:54:24
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs ... IGNITION !!!
> On cars with the OBD "hybrid"
such as my 95 VR4, how do you
> suggest measuring the ability to run a
little more boost by
> going with a colder plug? (as I am unable to
use a datalogger)
I don't have an answer for that. I have a '95 as
well. I'm going to use
the MSD Knock Alert, but I don't know how well
that will work. I'll also
get timing advance readings from my PMS which
will probably give a better
idea.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:58:04
-0800 (PST)
From: JuQuEl <
juquel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Best
tires?
This is the first time that I'll be buying tires for
my VR-4,
since I bought it. I have called several
places and have a range
between $650 and $1100 to
replace all four tires. What I'd like to know
is what
brand is the best and which will last longest?
Also, the
leather 'boot' around the stick shift is
totally worn out. Does anyone
have any suggestions as
to where I can buy one and how much they
cost?
LouAnn
'93 3000GT VR-4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:14:26
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
Congrats on the first-time tire replacement.
Hope you started saving
your pennies early. Before I suggest a tire you
need to realize that
everyone drives differently and goes through different
roads and
weather. Decide what is most important to you and The Tire
Rack,
www.tirerack.com, has a good site
with specs and notes on each tire,
comparable tires, customer service that is
very good (fast response as
well as accuracy).
I feel that $1,000 is
better spent on tires that will hold me in a
corner and save me from sliding
off the road and into an embankment or a
guardrail since that would cause
more than $1,000 of damage to the car
or the insurance. I'm not sure if
$2,000 would be worth it but the best
tires are the ones you can afford to
pay the highest for that will
balance all of your needs as equally as
possible and give you the
confidence to drive on them (boy that sounds like
an ad slogan).
My friend in NYC who bends 4 rims on potholes in the
course of 2 years
will like a taller sidewall tire. My friend in
Montana will like one
that has a high speed and heat rating and lasts for
those long highway
drives.
I prefer Pirelli and currently had their
P-Zero Asimmetrico on the car
(stock size of 245/40/18). Treadwear of
140 (soft for summer tires) and
I got about 30,000 miles out of them (just
about unheard of for a tread
that soft and what an average user puts their
car through on corners,
etc.). They have a Z speed rating and an A for
speed and an A for
temperature. Fantastic performance but on the high
end of the price
list at around $250 each.
I've heard others are quite
satisfied with Pole Position, Yokohama, etc.
at half that price but it is all
personal preference. If you do a lot
of rain driving then get one with
large sipes to exhaust water. If you
have good dry flat roads then get
one with good patch-to-pavement
contact and maybe lower sidewall
(40-series). If you want an all-season
for the states that see some
rain, sleet, leaves, rocks, dirt, etc. then
look around for those.
One
last note, for winter tires there are some to choose from (yes, even
in 18"
tires) but I have the Bridgestone Blizzak MZ-01 (235/45/17 I
think) on right
now and they are out of this world. I about had to tow
a Bronco out of
their parking lot today because I had traction and they
did not.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
JuQuEl
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 12:58
This is the first
time that I'll be buying tires for
my VR-4, since I bought it. I have
called several
places and have a range between $650 and $1100 to
replace
all four tires. What I'd like to know is what
brand is the best and
which will last longest?
Also, the leather 'boot' around the stick shift
is
totally worn out. Does anyone have any suggestions as
to where I
can buy one and how much they cost?
LouAnn
'93 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:23:41
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Admin Question
What's happened to this link?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
I get a "505 file not found" when I go to it, and when I go to
www.team3s.com, it takes me to
www.speedtoys.com. Did I miss an
admin
message announcing a change?
Dennis
93 Stealth
ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:19:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Admin Question
Hmm..lemme look at it.
On Mon, 7 Jan
2002, Dennis and Anita Moore wrote:
> What's happened to this
link?
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> I get a "505 file not found" when I go to it, and when I go
to
>
www.team3s.com, it takes me to
www.speedtoys.com. Did I miss an
admin
> message announcing a change?
>
> Dennis
> 93
Stealth ES
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:47:51
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
Hi LouAnn,
I have the Nitto 555 Extreme's
(254/40/R18) and they are pretty good.
Better than the stock Yokohama's and
MUCH less expensive. I think I paid
about $178 a piece from TireRack
for them. I have also heard good things
about the Kumho's. Most
of the "road racers" that I know of use the Kumho's
and mostly everyone has
good things to say about them. They may even be
less expensive than the
Nitto's. In my opinion, there is no reason to spend
so much more money
on tires like Bridgestone, etc. that are not "that" much
better than Nitto or
Kumho.
As far as the leather boot replacement goes, try JC Whitney.
http://www.jcwhitney.com.
They
have a shift boot replacement for our cars that is real leather
and
runs
about $20 or so.
If you have any more FAQ type questions,
take a loot at the Team3S FAQ at
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htmor my
FAQ at
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp.
HTH
Dave
95 VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: JuQuEl [SMTP:juquel@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 11:58 AM
> To: Team 3s
> Subject:
Team3S: Best tires?
>
> This is the first time that I'll be buying
tires for
> my VR-4, since I bought it. I have called
several
> places and have a range between $650 and $1100 to
>
replace all four tires. What I'd like to know is what
> brand is the
best and which will last longest?
>
> Also, the leather 'boot'
around the stick shift is
> totally worn out. Does anyone have any
suggestions as
> to where I can buy one and how much they cost?
>
> LouAnn
> '93 3000GT VR-4
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:52:51
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock boost gauge
Alex,
Please be aware that the sotck
boost gauge is VERY inaccurate and really
serves only for show. I would
suggest looking into the purchase of an
aftermarket boost gauge (like
Autometer, etc.) if you plan on turning up the
boost at all either by
electronic boost controller or by a manual bleeder
valve.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 11:30
AM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S: Stock boost gauge
>
> quick question:
>
> My boost
guage's resting position is at the very bottom of the dial
> (-7?) both
when the engine is on and off. I didn't think anything of it
> until i was
in a vr4 spyder w/ both the stock and aftermarket gauge - both
> of which
rested at 0. Which one's messed up? I'm assuming it's mine - if
> that's
the case then what's the problem?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95
VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:56:26
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
Thanks, Dave. As a road racer I think that the
Pirelli P-Zero is well
worth the cost for the performance it gives (I've
taken it to an AutoX
or three as well as an open track day and it did quite
well).
Remember that the last thing you want going through your mind when
a
corner creeps up on you is, "I hope these $140 tires are going to hold
a
2-ton car at twice the posted speed limit." Like I said, I would
rather
spend the grand now and prevent a guardrail or curb incident rather
than
dealing with fixing the car. I also had my tires heat cycled from
Tire
Rack (an extra few bucks per tire) which supposedly prolongs their
life
a little. I think it is kinda of related to cryo-treating rotors
if you
will.
Not many road racers recommend taking the track tires to
the street
either. I'm not sure what you mean when you say that but
track tires
are quite soft (mine are treadwear of 40-60) and will only yield
about
2,000-5,000 miles on the highway before they wear out. My P-Zero
tires
lasted 30k (about double what they usually last as they are stock
tires
on Porsche 911, etc.) so I was happy about taking them through
two
summers and the unfortunate winter in between. Did several 10+
hour
trips to gatherings as well as numerous "country" roads and I just
love
them.
But that's what this list is for ... and hope we can
help.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, road racer, and dag nab stubborn on the
P-Zeros ... :)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave
(ICT)
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 13:48
Hi LouAnn,
I have
the Nitto 555 Extreme's (254/40/R18) and they are pretty good.
Better than
the stock Yokohama's and MUCH less expensive. I think I
paid
about
$178 a piece from TireRack for them. I have also heard
good
things
about the Kumho's. Most of the "road racers" that I know
of use the
Kumho's
and mostly everyone has good things to say about
them. They may even be
less expensive than the Nitto's. In my
opinion, there is no reason to
spend
so much more money on tires like
Bridgestone, etc. that are not "that"
much
better than Nitto or
Kumho.
As far as the leather boot replacement goes, try JC Whitney.
http://www.jcwhitney.com.
They
have a shift boot replacement for our cars that is real leather
and
runs
about $20 or so.
If you have any more FAQ type questions,
take a loot at the Team3S FAQ
at
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htmor my
FAQ at
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:10:17
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best tires?
Between the Nitto 555 and Pirelli P-Zero.
I will
take the Pirelli any day.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002
11:56 AM
To: 'Team3s (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best
tires?
Thanks, Dave. As a road racer I think that the Pirelli
P-Zero is well
worth the cost for the performance it gives (I've taken it to
an AutoX
or three as well as an open track day and it did quite
well).
Remember that the last thing you want going through your mind when
a
corner creeps up on you is, "I hope these $140 tires are going to hold
a
2-ton car at twice the posted speed limit." Like I said, I would
rather
spend the grand now and prevent a guardrail or curb incident rather
than
dealing with fixing the car. I also had my tires heat cycled from
Tire
Rack (an extra few bucks per tire) which supposedly prolongs their
life
a little. I think it is kinda of related to cryo-treating rotors
if you
will.
Not many road racers recommend taking the track tires to
the street
either. I'm not sure what you mean when you say that but
track tires
are quite soft (mine are treadwear of 40-60) and will only yield
about
2,000-5,000 miles on the highway before they wear out. My P-Zero
tires
lasted 30k (about double what they usually last as they are stock
tires
on Porsche 911, etc.) so I was happy about taking them through
two
summers and the unfortunate winter in between. Did several 10+
hour
trips to gatherings as well as numerous "country" roads and I just
love
them.
But that's what this list is for ... and hope we can
help.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, road racer, and dag nab stubborn on the
P-Zeros ... :)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave
(ICT)
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 13:48
Hi LouAnn,
I have
the Nitto 555 Extreme's (254/40/R18) and they are pretty good.
Better than
the stock Yokohama's and MUCH less expensive. I think I
paid
about
$178 a piece from TireRack for them. I have also heard
good
things
about the Kumho's. Most of the "road racers" that I know
of use the
Kumho's
and mostly everyone has good things to say about
them. They may even be
less expensive than the Nitto's. In my
opinion, there is no reason to
spend
so much more money on tires like
Bridgestone, etc. that are not "that"
much
better than Nitto or
Kumho.
As far as the leather boot replacement goes, try JC Whitney.
http://www.jcwhitney.com.
They
have a shift boot replacement for our cars that is real leather
and
runs
about $20 or so.
If you have any more FAQ type questions,
take a loot at the Team3S FAQ
at
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htmor my
FAQ at
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 14:19:37
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch decisions...
Hey all,
I'm replacing my clutch very
soon, but I still need to buy one...
There are 3 that I'm looking at,
but only buying one :) so help me out!
RPS stage
2 $459 at Dynamic Racing
RPS stage
3 $497.25 at MVP Motorsports
ACT 6 Puck race disc
$469 at Dynamic
any other suggestions?
The reason I have the stage 2
in there is that it's cheaper (obviously
;) and I'm not planning on pushing
too much more power than I am now...
Stillen DP
MBC @ 14
K&N
(soon)
catback (soon)
The ACT I'm not sure of (overkill?), but I threw
it in there cuz it
seemed competitive with the RPS units.
Thanks all,
Joe
91 RT/TT black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 14:41:09
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny parts supplier (?)
Hey all -
Happy holidays, I hope all is
well.
I just got this 'Fix' report from IATN, and this guy claims
he can get
parts from this Alltrans company. Anyone heard of these
guys?
Interesting message too...
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar),
Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar,
Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3
Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram
emblem
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Mcrorie" <
c0046529697tr@comments.iatn.net>
To:
<
IATN-CHRY2@PEACH.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Chry-Trans: FIX 93 Dodge Stealth,
Mechanical, trans output &
transfercase input splines
sheared
>
*******************************************************
>
Sponsoring members may rate this FIX post
> or
add/view comments directly from this link:
>
http://members.iatn.net/c/c.cgi?m=697&t=chry_trans>
*******************************************************
>
> 1993
Dodge Stealth
>
> Engine:
3.0 L / 181 CID / 6 cyl / Gas / Twin Turbo / DOHC
>
Fuel: Fuel
Injection
> Ignition:
Distributorless
> Trans:
5-speed Standard Transaxle
> Mileage:
97,691 km
>
VIN:
JB3BN74K9P
>
> Affected Item: trans output & transfercase input
splines sheared
> Condition:
sheared
>
> _____________________ CLOSED W/SUMMARY
_____________________
>
> This vehicle has not been repaired yet we
are still waiting
> for parts to come. Turns out you can repair these
units if
> anyone needs info on parts & avail call Alltrans at 800
922
> 9562.
>
> _____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE
_____________________
>
> 5 speed getrag transmission with all wheel
drive transfer
> case no drive due to sheared splines at transmission
output
> shaft & transfer case input shaft. Assembly serviced
only.
> Need info on any other possible repairs other than by
>
replacing complete assembly.
>
> Mark Mcrorie
>
Technician/Shop Foreman
> Crosstown Motors
> Edmonton, Alberta,
Canada
>
> iATN Technician Sponsor
>
http://members.iatn.net/pages/mark_mcrorie2.html>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
>
Copyright (c)2001 iATN. Do not reproduce/redistribute this
email.
>
> Note: You must be a registered member of iATN to reply to
this
> message. Your reply will be added to the iATN Knowledge
Base,
> and cannot contain any file attachments.
>
> To
configure, update, or cancel your iATN account see:
>
http://members.iatn.net/config/>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:08:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best tires?
I bought 4 Michelin Pilot xgt Z4s for my VR4 for
around $125/each at
Costco a year or two ago. The tires had good
reviews and have been great
for me (though I'm probably not as critical a
driver as most of the people
here).
- -Fred
On Mon, 7 Jan 2002,
JuQuEl wrote:
> This is the first time that I'll be buying tires
for
> my VR-4, since I bought it. I have called several
>
places and have a range between $650 and $1100 to
> replace all four
tires. What I'd like to know is what
> brand is the best and which
will last longest?
>
> Also, the leather 'boot' around the stick
shift is
> totally worn out. Does anyone have any suggestions
as
> to where I can buy one and how much they cost?
>
>
LouAnn
> '93 3000GT VR-4
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 14:18:43
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pilots.
At 12:08 PM 1/7/02 -0800, Fred Hamilton
wrote:
>I bought 4 Michelin Pilot xgt Z4s for my VR4 for around $125/each
at
>Costco a year or two ago. The tires had good reviews and have
been great
>for me (though I'm probably not as critical a driver as most
of the people
>here).
>
>-Fred
I agree with Fred.
Michelin Pilots are great tires. I use them on the track from time to
time
when the Kuhmos wear out, and they are a superb rain tire. I have
lapped
cars TWICE in the rain on the Pilots. But $125 each? Wow....what
a deal!
I got mine from Tires Plus (who beat Tire Rack prices), and thought I
got a
good deal. But not as good as Fred's.>
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:25:23
-0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer.mail@verizon.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Best tires?
I'm using Kumho Ecsta Supra tires on mine. They
are good for the price and
for a daily driver. But if you are willing to
spend the money, then like
many other people on this list, I would defenitely
go with nothing but the
Pirelli P-Zero's.
As far as your shift boot
goes, you could get one from the dealer, but you
should probably get a
leather boot from Alan Gun. You can find their website
at
www.aglausa.com. They may not have a boot
listed for our cars on their
website, but you can get it if you call them on
the phone.
Aamer
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally
Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the USA]
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "JuQuEl" <
juquel@yahoo.com>
To: "Team 3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 12:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Best
tires?
> This is the first time that I'll be buying tires
for
> my VR-4, since I bought it. I have called several
>
places and have a range between $650 and $1100 to
> replace all four
tires. What I'd like to know is what
> brand is the best and which
will last longest?
>
> Also, the leather 'boot' around the stick
shift is
> totally worn out. Does anyone have any suggestions
as
> to where I can buy one and how much they cost?
>
>
LouAnn
> '93 3000GT VR-4
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
>
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:35:08
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best tires?
My $0.02 worth ...
I have had Firestone
Firehawks that came on a car (VR4), Goodyear
R1s (?) that came on a car
(VR4), and Michelin Pilots that came on a car
(VR4-still in service).
The only set I bought was Yokohama DB (VR4 in
service). All these Z
rated tires are good as far as I'm concerned - the
all weather capability is
important here in Southeast Texas. I only use
these on the street - I
have separate track tires.
Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:38:01
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Let's hear it for Pilots.
With my vote, that's three for
Michelin Pilots.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:19
PM
> To: Fred Hamilton; JuQuEl
> Cc: Team 3s
> Subject:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pilots.
>
> At 12:08 PM 1/7/02 -0800,
Fred Hamilton wrote:
> >I bought 4 Michelin Pilot xgt Z4s for my VR4
for around $125/each at
> >Costco a year or two ago. The tires
had good reviews and have been great
> >for me (though I'm probably not
as critical a driver as most of the
> people
> >here).
>
>
> >-Fred
>
> I agree with Fred.
> Michelin
Pilots are great tires. I use them on the track from time to time
> when
the Kuhmos wear out, and they are a superb rain tire. I have lapped
> cars
TWICE in the rain on the Pilots. But $125 each? Wow....what a
deal!
> I got mine from Tires Plus (who beat Tire Rack prices), and
thought I got
> a
> good deal. But not as good as
Fred's.>
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:50:29
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pilots.
... and three for the Pirelli
P-Zero.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 15:38
With my vote, that's three for
Michelin Pilots.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
> I agree with Fred.
>
Michelin Pilots are great tires. I use them on the track from time
to
time
> when the Kuhmos wear out, and they are a superb rain tire. I
have
lapped
> cars TWICE in the rain on the Pilots. But $125
each? Wow....what a
deal!
> I got mine from Tires Plus (who beat
Tire Rack prices), and thought I
got
> a
> good deal. But not as
good as Fred's.>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:53:13
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pilots.
... what about some other numbers on
those tires? How many miles did
they last, what weather did they see,
what treadwear are they (although
each mfg is not truly equal rating here),
etc? No sense we have my data
on the P-Zero and only get the "to my
butt dyno the tires feel good and
do well in all weather."
How about
someone who had a tire blow or had a slow leak and a flat and
still drove on
it for a few miles. How did it perform, will you choose
that tire
again, etc?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 15:38
With my
vote, that's three for Michelin Pilots.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:59:35
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pirelli
I hit a curb at 60 MPH with
P-Zeros.
It broke 5 of the 6 spokes on my stock wheel.
The tire showed no
damage and was used until the tread wore out.
P.S. Be careful when
dialing a cell phone while driving.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002
1:53 PM
To: 'Team 3s'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Let's hear it for
Pilots.
... what about some other numbers on those tires? How
many miles did
they last, what weather did they see, what treadwear are they
(although
each mfg is not truly equal rating here), etc? No sense we
have my data
on the P-Zero and only get the "to my butt dyno the tires feel
good and
do well in all weather."
How about someone who had a tire
blow or had a slow leak and a flat and
still drove on it for a few
miles. How did it perform, will you choose
that tire again,
etc?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis,
Charles E.
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 15:38
With my vote,
that's three for Michelin Pilots.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:04:55
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Let's hear it for Pirelli
remind me never to ride in the car
with Jim again, at least unless we
discard his cell phone.!
BTW:
Darren, there are so many variables in tire wear mileage, proper
inflation,
how fast you corner, road condition, alignment (or not),
whatever "numbers"
you come up with are pretty close to a Ouija board. I
think the
question - "would I buy them again?" is fair, but how about "would
I buy them
exclusive of any other good, name-brand, z-rated, all weather
radial that was
priced cometitively (or cheaper)?" is better. How is the
DOT hardness
rating not indicative of the wear the tires are going to have?
There's a set
of "numbers" for you.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 07,
2002 3:00 PM
> To: 'Team 3s'
> Subject: Team3S: Let's hear it for
Pirelli
>
>
> I hit a curb at 60 MPH with P-Zeros.
>
It broke 5 of the 6 spokes on my stock wheel.
> The tire showed no damage
and was used until the tread wore out.
>
> P.S. Be careful when
dialing a cell phone while driving.
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:08:55
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pirelli
Not one of my finer moments.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002
2:05 PM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; 'Team 3s'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Let's hear it for
Pirelli
remind me never to ride in the car with Jim again, at least
unless we
discard his cell phone.!
BTW: Darren, there are so
many variables in tire wear mileage, proper
inflation, how fast you corner,
road condition, alignment (or not),
whatever "numbers" you come up with are
pretty close to a Ouija board. I
think the question - "would I buy them
again?" is fair, but how about "would
I buy them exclusive of any other good,
name-brand, z-rated, all weather
radial that was priced cometitively (or
cheaper)?" is better. How is the
DOT hardness rating not indicative of
the wear the tires are going to have?
There's a set of "numbers" for
you.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 3:00
PM
> To: 'Team 3s'
> Subject: Team3S: Let's hear it for
Pirelli
>
>
> I hit a curb at 60 MPH with P-Zeros.
>
It broke 5 of the 6 spokes on my stock wheel.
> The tire showed no damage
and was used until the tread wore out.
>
> P.S. Be careful when
dialing a cell phone while driving.
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:10:39
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best tires?
True, I forgot.
I used them at Second Creek in
Denver too.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:07 PM
To:
'Floyd, Jim'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best tires?
You didn't tell the
list that you used the P-Zero at Heartland Park for
a driving event.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:13:28
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
The shift boot from the dealer is more than $20 and
isn't leather; the one
from JC Whitney is about $20, is made from real
leather and a good match on
color.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Aamer
[SMTP:aamer.mail@verizon.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:25
PM
> To: JuQuEl; Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Best tires?
>
> I'm using Kumho Ecsta Supra tires on mine. They are good for the price
and
> for a daily driver. But if you are willing to spend the money, then
like
> many other people on this list, I would defenitely go with nothing
but the
> Pirelli P-Zero's.
>
> As far as your shift boot
goes, you could get one from the dealer, but you
> should probably get a
leather boot from Alan Gun. You can find their
> website
> at
www.aglausa.com. They may not have a boot
listed for our cars on their
> website, but you can get it if you call
them on the phone.
>
>
> Aamer
> '94 3000GT (DOHC --
Naturally Aspirated)
> email:
aamer@thepentagon.com> fax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the USA]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JuQuEl" <
juquel@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team 3s"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 12:58 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Best
tires?
>
>
> > This is the first time that I'll be buying
tires for
> > my VR-4, since I bought it. I have called
several
> > places and have a range between $650 and $1100 to
>
> replace all four tires. What I'd like to know is what
> >
brand is the best and which will last longest?
> >
> > Also,
the leather 'boot' around the stick shift is
> > totally worn
out. Does anyone have any suggestions as
> > to where I can buy
one and how much they cost?
> >
> > LouAnn
> > '93
3000GT VR-4
> >
> >
__________________________________________________
> > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> >
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:31:14
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pirelli
Chuck,
The
treadwear number for an M+S tire will not relate well to a true
winter or
summer tire. That's why I was giving mileage driven on the
tire (long
and short trips, AutoX and an open road course and some good
fun roads) gave
me 30k miles for $1,000 of tires that kept me out of the
guardrail (I'm
better than Jim at dialing a cell phone I assume). I
would buy them
again because Pittsburgh does not get a ton of rain, has
lots of hills and
turns.
By the way, it was someone on this list who said that
treadwear might
not be exactly apples-to-apples when comparing tires.
Like I doubt the
Michelin rain tires with very tall tread depth and same
treadwear rating
will do as well in a turn as the P-Zero ... even though it
is the same
treadwear. P-Zero probably has a shorter tread depth and
more contact
since it doesn't need to sipe water as much ... so given the
same
numbers I don't think it is a true comparison (maybe Granny
Smith
apples-to-Macintosh apples).
If I lived out where there
are no turns (or not as much) then I would
not buy an Asymmetric tread (since
that style is good for turns because
of the two different patterns of
tread). P-Zero does have a Directional
(non-Asymmetric tread) but for
straight driving or main highway driving
I would not buy them. I would
get something cheaper (or same price for
longer distance).
However, I have hills and turns around here and go through some rain
but
mostly it is dry. So my choice is made on these. I do
like
attending gatherings and seeing the vast difference in tires.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 16:05
remind me never to ride
in the car with Jim again, at least unless we
discard his cell
phone.!
BTW: Darren, there are so many variables in tire wear
mileage, proper
inflation, how fast you corner, road condition, alignment (or
not),
whatever "numbers" you come up with are pretty close to a Ouija
board.
I
think the question - "would I buy them again?" is fair, but how
about
"would
I buy them exclusive of any other good, name-brand, z-rated,
all weather
radial that was priced cometitively (or cheaper)?" is
better. How is
the
DOT hardness rating not indicative of the wear
the tires are going to
have?
There's a set of "numbers" for
you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 17:25:34
-0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tempature Gauge Pegged
Hello all, recently I wrote about my car
not starting after replacing the
output shaft. I finally got the car to
start w/ the help of a little can of
ether. After starting it the
temperature gauge is pegged at hot (even if you
just turn the key to acc.)
anyhow the car isnt really overheating that I can
tell. I took it in to a
dealership for the 60k service and had them check
out the problem, they have
had it since last Wed. with no clue. They
replaced the sensor to the temp.
gauge but still no luck. Its starting to
get pretty expensive so any help or
suggestions would be much
appreciated!
_________________________________________________________________
MSN
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#719
***************************************