Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, December 29 2001
Volume 01 : Number
711
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:25:17 EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Need
new alarm/keyless entry
I have a 1991 Dodge Stealth RT Turbo with factory
alarm. Some previous owner installed a DEI keyless entry/alarm, but the
two systems are not really compatible. Sometimes, the DEI system will arm the
factory alarm, making re-entry into the car embarassing and difficult, if not
downright impossible. I want to retain the functionality of keyless entry,
but also have the utility of the factory alarm (igition disable, etc). I
have looked into Ultrastarters.com and Directed Electronics (makers of my
existing keyless entry), but have come up empty on a complete system which is
compatible with the factory alarm.
My concern is this - I believe that
the factory alarm is part of the ECU (which, by the way, I recently repaired
with Jeff Lucius' advice on Capacitors - thanks Jeff), so I don't want to monkey
with that if I don't have to.
I can't imagine that I am the first
to have come across this problem, so any advice on a compatible alarm/keyless
entry system is appreciated.
- -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:32:59
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Valve
lifter tick/oil pressure.
before I get beat on for asking a question
about this somewhat routine problem (i read through the archives), I've done
Marty's MMO method as well as removed my valve lifters and cleaned them, but
still, they tick. Rather than paying $15 a whack for 24 lifters, is there a
service anyone knows of where I could send all of the lifters to be checked for
operability? I've done them all myself before, but the ticking
returns.
Also, I have a question regarding oil pressure. I replaced the
factory gauges (because mine broke) with autometer analog Water Temp, oil
pressure, manifold pressure and fuel pressure gauges, and the oil pressure
(taken at the stock factory oil pressure guage location = next to the low oil
pressure sensor) reads about 35 psi at 2500 rpm when the engine is warm.
Usually, I figured cars run at 50 psi when warm, but since mitsu used a
proprietary guage with no scale, perhaps the oil pressure is fine. Any thoughts
on this? What is "normal" oil pressure for a 1st gen DOHC Turbo engine at
operating temperature with 10-30 Mobil 1?
Thanks for any
advice.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:39:21
-0800
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FOR SALE TT HEADS from a 92 stealth TT/RT
I have a pair of TT
heads that are in good working order, I would like to
get 350.00 for them and
the cam gears are going to be mine (stock...for a
later project) but
everything else is there as it was unbolted from the
engine. I guess shipping
to be in the 50.00 range for them but either way it
will be the buyers
responsibility. I live in WA state so any locals are
welcome to pick them up
or might even consider driving half way for an hour
or so.
bob
k.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:33:39
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
I have a
somewhat limited knowledge on the factory alarm, but it is not
integrated
into the ECU. The factory alarm cuts power to the ignition
switch when
armed via a relay somewhere.
What you want is to disable the
factory alarm entirely, and replace it
with an alarm that features an
ignition kill circuit. Many new alarms
have this, but I would go with a
better brand than DEI. Clifford and
Ungo are some of the best alarms
out there. I picked up an Ungo for
$135 off Ebay that has starter kill,
remote start, window features,
extended range antenna, trunk release, all
built in. Of course, all
alarms may require external relays and
actuators, but the features are
built into this unit.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
ThorHolth@aol.comSent: Friday, December
28, 2001 10:25 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
I have a 1991 Dodge Stealth RT Turbo
with factory alarm. Some previous
owner installed a DEI keyless
entry/alarm, but the two systems are not
really compatible. Sometimes, the
DEI system will arm the factory alarm,
making re-entry into the car
embarassing and difficult, if not downright
impossible. I want to
retain the functionality of keyless entry, but
also have the utility of the
factory alarm (igition disable, etc). I
have looked into
Ultrastarters.com and Directed Electronics (makers of
my existing keyless
entry), but have come up empty on a complete system
which is compatible with
the factory alarm.
My concern is this - I believe that the factory alarm
is part of the ECU
(which, by the way, I recently repaired with Jeff Lucius'
advice on
Capacitors - thanks Jeff), so I don't want to monkey with that if
I
don't have to.
I can't imagine that I am the first to have
come across this problem, so
any advice on a compatible alarm/keyless entry
system is appreciated.
- -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:59:25
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
Hi Thor,
I have a Clifford
Intelliguard 800 and it has a lot of great features and
seems to work fine
with the factory system as long as you never lock or
unlock the doors with
the key - use the remote for the Clifford. It has
ignition disable,
internal and external motion sensors, glass breakage
detector (an extra),
remote window up/down (an extra good for those hot
days), remote keyless
entry, panic, programmable remote, and lots more. I
bought the alarm in
5/98 for about $400. I'm sure they have a newer version
with more bells
and whistles for the same if not less $$$.
HTH
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[SMTP:ThorHolth@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 10:25
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
>
> I have a 1991
Dodge Stealth RT Turbo with factory alarm. Some previous
> owner
installed a DEI keyless entry/alarm, but the two systems are not
> really
compatible. Sometimes, the DEI system will arm the factory alarm,
> making
re-entry into the car embarassing and difficult, if not downright
>
impossible. I want to retain the functionality of keyless entry, but
also
> have the utility of the factory alarm (igition disable, etc).
I have
> looked into Ultrastarters.com and Directed Electronics (makers of
my
> existing keyless entry), but have come up empty on a complete system
which
> is compatible with the factory alarm.
>
> My concern
is this - I believe that the factory alarm is part of the ECU
> (which, by
the way, I recently repaired with Jeff Lucius' advice on
> Capacitors -
thanks Jeff), so I don't want to monkey with that if I don't
> have
to.
>
> I can't imagine that I am the first to have come
across this problem, so
> any advice on a compatible alarm/keyless entry
system is appreciated.
>
> -thor
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 09:29:13
-0800
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: question for SCCA memebers - disertation
A 1st gen DSM FWD
turbo can make up the difference in the straights.. A 1st
gen DSM AWD
turbo... "I have brakes????" It's like taking a 3/S and losing
a
few thousand pounds. A guy I know have the worlds fastest DSM spyder in
San Jose. AWD convertable nightmare of speed!!!
Oh and BTW... A
neon with my same specs was walking on a C5 in the 2
straight sections...
NICE! Too bad a turbo won't be good with a 11.5:1 comp
ratio... unless
I add a alcohol injection system.. hmmmm yummy. I still
want to
get a junked neon and throw a Scooby 2.5 in =).
I really have to get a
car that has cheeper parts.. 3/S = $$$$$ Neon = make
it yourself no
aftermarket support.
>From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
"Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>,team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: question for SCCA memebers - disertation
>Date: Fri, 28 Dec
2001 09:59:12 -0600
>
> >SCCA has done alot for autosport... but
I have a few gripes about how
>they
>conduct business at
times.
>
>I saw them ruin pro rallying, so pray they don't discover
open tracking.
>
> >On the "shitbox" theory... ever see a neon
pass an NXS... I have =). The
> >Stealth is fun to race and hit
the twisties with... but in all honesty..
>the
> >3/S are made
as touring cars. I'll run my neon around the Stealth at
>
>Thunderhill all day... Neon = Go Cart.. just add slicks (a race engine
>helps
> >too!)
>
>I ran up against a race-prepped
Neon at Blackhawk Farms. We were even
>through the twisty bits, but the
VR4 engine just flat ran him down on the
>straights. Without a suitable
straightaway, it would be tough to catch a
>well-driven Neon. Same with
race-prepped 914 Porsches and Mini Coopers,
>which seem to have no need to
brake before corners. Lots of folks in little
>shitbox cars go very, very
fast out there, even though they may be 30 mph
>slower on long
straights.
>
>I have great hopes for my shitbox Talon. It may yet
replace the VR4 as my
>track car if things work
out.
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:47:56
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Neons
>Oh and BTW... A neon with my same specs was walking
on a C5 in the 2
>straight sections... NICE!
When cars are
evenly matched --i.e., fast car (C5) with slow driver and
fast driver
in slower car (Neon)-- the better driver can exit the turn onto
the straight
at a much higher speed and make up for lack of higher top end
by catching and
passing the faster car before it can build up speed. For
example, I was
keeping ahead of a relatively new driver in a Cobra R at
Road America, even
though he was hitting 170 on the straights and I was
only at 125 or so. It
looked like a rocket ship bearing down on me, but he
never did get close enuf
to pass. I could walk away in the twisty bits, and
he'd close up on the
straights. That same guy is now an instructor, and no
doubt will blow my
doors off next time we meet. If you see a black VR4 with
no doors, you'll
know I met the R again.
Rich/slow old poop
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:00:41
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
question for SCCA memebers - disertation
I didn't get the original
message shown below so I'm not sure who sent it
but I've run Thunder hill in
my Stealth TT and after the first day I was passed
only by race prepped cars
---- I passed M3's, Porches and a Viper [ I don't
think it was well driven
].
What kind of times did you turn at Thunderhill in your Neon --- since
I didn't
see the origional message I don't know if the Neon you're talking
about is
race prepped or
not.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Jamie Marzonie <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>On the "shitbox" theory... ever see a neon pass an NXS... I have =).
The
> >Stealth is fun to race and hit the twisties with... but in all
honesty.. the
> >3/S are made as touring cars. I'll run my neon
around the Stealth at
> >Thunderhill all day... Neon = Go Cart.. just
add slicks (a race engine helps
> >too!)
***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 16:09:52
-0700
From: "Will Fortenberry" <
BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
Thor,
I just left the
factory alarm system and bought the factory keyless entry
remote. Supposedly,
all TT's came with keyless entry from the factory. Check
daveblack.net for
info on your year/model's options or check for a box the
says "OMRON" inside
the left rear panel (next to the 6x9). That is what
controls the keyless
entry.
I ordered mine from Bill Siedle's Mitsu for $40 shipped. Contact
info,
pictures, and programming info (took 15 minutes) can be found at
http://www.team3s.com/FAQkeyless.htmWill
94
VR-4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: 28 Dec 2001 20:34:04
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thanks for advice, I bought a Hemet.
Thanks for all of the
advice, I Bought a helmet yesterday, It is a closed face but I will probably
unbolt the visor and save it for if I ever go carting.
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/helmets/helmetset.htmlIt
was a Simpson Voyager $370 after taxes. I could have got it cheaper over the
internet but I spent over an hour at Lane automotive trying different helmets.
W/O talking to them I NEVER would have bought the right size.
I didn't
buy the Bell M2 that I was looking at because My head dropped in between 2
sizes. The Simpson had several more sizes.
I put a helmet on that
felt right (7 5/8) and the salesman took one look at me and said "WAY to small".
I kept going down a size at a time; 4 sizes later he says "yep a 7 1/4 looks
right".
I'm thinking I will have migrain in 2 minutes wearing this thing
he's got to be crazy! But the next size up moves around too much.
He
convinces me it the right size so I buy it. 5 miles from home I put it on and
wear it for the rest of the drive. It felt a little better but I am thinking
I've still screwed up.
The Salesman claimed that the liner gives so it
should feel too tight, but sweat in it once good and it will fit perfect. I am
starting to think about the shoe salesman lie "Oh don't worry you just have to
break them in" but decide to give it a try.
So after the wife goes to
bed I put it on and go to work in the garage moving crap to make room for winter
storage of the VR-4. 1/2 hour later my head is sweating and the helmet feels
tight but not painful.
I think I actually bought the right size
John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main coversion
Find
the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
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------------------------------
Date: 28 Dec 2001 21:03:32
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Solo I Vs Solo II and 2002 National gathering
I think that
autocross definately has SOME advantages over large road courses. I would
love to drive a large road course but the nearest one is Gingerman in Michican
and they want between $300 and $400 for a partial day with and instructor.
W/O the instructor I am not allowed on the track. Autocrossing only costs
me $17.
I like to think of autocrossing as being similar to golf. I
am trying to beat myself. I probably never going to be the best player on
the course but I will be happy to make improvements. It also relates to
real world drive driving in some ways. I can now handle a 4 wheel drift
much better and I now know exactly how hard I can brake and turn w/o lossing
control.
A serious negative about autocrossing is that it is
dominated by little cars so the course designers tend to make the courses very
tight. Seeing some stock probe lift a wheel in the corners and beat your
best time is like having a pro golfer that gets to golf from the RED tees in
your 4-some, just depressing.
When there is a power course with longer
straight aways and bigger turns it is fun to shock people with what top speeds
you can hit, but these are rare.
P.S. please pre-register(no
commitment necessary) for the 2002 Stealth 3000GT national gathering in
August. The track day at the Gingerman is going to be the most difficult
event to organize because of high costs and current low interest. The autocross
and Dragrace will be cool but I would really like to try the road course. I am
challenging the road racers to E-mail the 2002 gathering administrator and let
him know that you are interested in a day at the Gingerman.
Email him at
3sng@audio-production.comSee
national Gathering website for more details
http://www.3snationalgathering.com/John
Monnin
1991 V-4
4-bolt main conversion
Find the best deals on
the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 00:26:05
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Minimum Mods needed to safely run over 15lbs. boost?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
Team3s (E-mail) <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, December 27, 2001 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Minimum Mods needed
to safely run over 15lbs. boost?
>> Is that all I will need to
run past 1.0 bar safely?
>
>You can run over 1.0 bar safely if you
use racing fuel, or 100 octane
>unleaded. Either that or you need
something else to perform
>knock/detonation control like water/alcohol
injection or a fuel controller
>and larger injectors to be able to use
fuel to cool the cylinders. Moving
a
>step colder on the spark
plugs will help some too.
>
>Since you have a '95 you might want to
consider something like an MSD Knock
>Alert so that you have a better idea
how much knock you are getting.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------------------
As mentioned - a way to monitor knock is
critical. Fortunately, I am
able to use the TMO datalogger. After
the last year of numerous logging
sessions, I have come to the conclusion
that knock counts at various
boost levels change from day to day. What
works on one day may
be different a few days later. This seems to be
even more important
at 1+ bar since the consequences of "getting it wrong"
can be so
much more severe. It appears that outside/ambient air
changes
can cause differences. It also appears that changes in pump
fuel
makes a difference. (fuel content is changed depending on
the
season, area of the country etc by the refineries) Add to
this
various settings that may be available (fuel/injector
settings,
manual timing changes, alcohol or water injector setup
and
volume, load, gear used, temp of motor and recent activity
etc)
and specific setup (turbo type, intercoolers etc
and there is just no way of
knowing exactly what you will see
on any particular day (or night) without
checking. (logging)
The ol' Mitsu ECU may also be playing a role
in all of
this?
I seem to have an even more difficult challenge running
as much
boost as I would like whenever I like with
91 max octane.
A few items
that seem to help keep knock supressed
the most include: fuel octane, alc
inj, intercooler
efficiency/heat soaking, cooler ambient air
and
cooler overall motor temp. (not making hard runs
close together -
allowcool down periods)
I've found ambient temp to be somewhat of a mixed
bag
in that cooler temps help prevent knock since inlet
temps are reduced
and intercooler efficiency is
enhanced but at the same time cooler air is
more
dense and higher boost levels may present more
problems than hotter
ambient temps at same
boost. (that was a long sentence)
The good
thing seems to be that it doesn't
require as high of a boost setting with
cold
ambient temps/denser air to make the same
HP as higher boost settings
with high ambient
temps.
There also seems to be a point where
ambient
temp becomes high enough where knock will
occur before boost can
be increased enough
to match power output of cooler ambient
temps.
It's been several years since I've played
with racing fuel but
15 psi shouldn't be any
problem with 100 octane. Of course there
is
none of that to be found here ...
- - tds
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 02:49:46
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless entry
Is this true of all tt 3/S
? Or just 2nd gen VR4s?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Will
Fortenberry <
BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com>
To:
<
ThorHolth@aol.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, December 28, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need new alarm/keyless
entry
> Thor,
>
> I just left the factory alarm system
and bought the factory keyless entry
> remote. Supposedly, all TT's came
with keyless entry from the factory.
Check
> daveblack.net for info on
your year/model's options or check for a box the
> says "OMRON" inside the
left rear panel (next to the 6x9). That is what
> controls the keyless
entry.
> I ordered mine from Bill Siedle's Mitsu for $40 shipped. Contact
info,
> pictures, and programming info (took 15 minutes) can be found
at
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQkeyless.htm>
>
Will
> 94 VR-4
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 09:18:45
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: question for SCCA memebers
Notice--the guys that got their
feelings hurt by Merritt own these little
underpowered shitboxes
JK!
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
'Dave Monarchi' <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>;
Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, December 27, 2001 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: question for SCCA
memebers
>As a former owner of a Mitsu GSX, I can say that Rich, a
CURRENT owner of a
>GSX, is well-qualified to use the term "littel
go-kart-like turbo
>shitboxes"!
>
>Come on Dave, lighten
up!
>
>The technical content is that there are different kinds of
AutoX events,
and
>that the setup for the course makes a big difference
in which cars are most
>successful in negotiating the course. I
think I would rather compete in a
>3000GT on the course set up for
Corvettes than for little cars, if I was
>into competition and
such.
>
>BTW some of the most interesting road course events I've
been to have been
>Dealer events - John Eagle Honda, where you had
everything from a Civic to
>an S2000 running on the course. Funny
thing is that there are road course
>configurations that are biased to
little cars, too. The short course at
TWS
>is made for a Miata,
except of course the front straight.
>
>Chuck
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> From: Dave Monarchi
[SMTP:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
>> Sent: Thursday, December 27,
2001 3:32 PM
>> To: Merritt
>> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Re: Team3S: question for SCCA
memebers
>>
>>
>> --------
>>
>>
+> You don't want to go play with the SCCA and their kiddycars. They
set
>> their
>> +> autocourses up for mostly first gear
running on postage-stamp parking
>> lots,
>> +> so little
go-kart-like turbo shitboxes (Omni GLH turbos, etc) rule the
>>
roost
>> <snip>
>>
>> hmm.. I think I
take offense to this.. I generally enjoy your road
>>
racing
>> posts, but negative crap like this just turns me off..
I've always
wanted
>> to get into road course stuff, but if that's
the general attitude of your
>> group, I'm not even remotely
interested.
>>
>> why must so many people beat their chest and
talk shit about what
>> interests
>> others. god forbid
if I owned a "hon-DUH". oh, wait I have. many.
>> actually
about 40 cars so far in my comparatively short driving time.
>> loved
them all.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> 95 Black 3000GT
VR4
>> 87 Mica Red GTI G60 (go-kart-like supercharged shitbox
kiddycar)
>>
>>
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>>
>>
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>*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 08:59:19
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Solo I Vs Solo II and 2002 National gathering
I took a look at the
Gingerman schedule and see that the Alpha club, Porsche club and
Mustang club
all have events scheduled ---- almost all clubs allow you to sign up and
run
at their event. The local Alpha club [ southern California ] has two day
events with
3 or 4 levels of experience for about $200 for two days ---
probably $125 for 1 day.
Almost all clubs have instructors available and many
have beginners classes with
classroom and track time.
I haven't run
AutoX and have no desire to do so in my overweight, overpowered
touring car [
big old luxury shitbox ]----- a big roadcourse on the other hand is a
ball.
In addition you get more track time which is what I'm there for. All I
lack is large
sums of money and time to spend on my car and for more track
time. The closest
track to me is about 2½ hours and I've driven 10 hours for
a weekend of track time.
Look harder, I'm sure you can find
something.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
>
I think that autocross definately has SOME advantages over large road
courses. I would love to drive a large road course but the
nearest one
is Gingerman in Michican and they want between $300 and $400 for a partial day
with and instructor. W/O the instructor
I am not allowed on the
track. Autocrossing only costs me $17.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
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