New York - Munich - Portland - San Francisco - Seattle - Stockholm - Vancouver - Zurich
New York - Munich - Portland - San Francisco - Seattle - Stockholm - Vancouver - Zurich
|
The Keyless Remotes are becoming increasingly hard to find. If you lose your keys regularly, or even if you just want to be prepared, it might be a good idea to pick up one or two of them, just to have around. At the time of this writing, the remotes are are available for about $25.00 +shipping from: 2757 N.W. 36th St. Miami Fl. 33142 (305) 633-7722 or (305) 637-5246 The unit is shown above (exact size) - front and back view (in case for some reason you need the numbers). Also shown is the replacement battery, which is a 3-volt Panasonic 2032, or equivalent. Once you have the remote, you need to get to the keyless receiver, which is located behind the rear, left-side (driver's-side) panel, that is, the large panel which surrounds the left rear speaker. The whole procedure will take most people around one and a half hours, including re-assembly. (For those who don't want to do it themselves, any car audio installation shop can easily do it.) Here's how: |
Procedure
 |
1. Remove the hatch cover. |
|
|
2. Remove the rear seat as follows: |
Pull on the two handles at the forward edge of the seat bottom. This
will unlatch it so you can lift out the whole seat bottom. Remove the
left side rear seatback, by undoing the two 12-mm bolts, which are
at its base. |
|
|
|
3. Remove the left rear panel as follows: |
Unscrew the rearmost screw on the scuff plate (the plastic strip
that sits over the rocker panel.) Unscrew the single screw on the
cover over the rear seatbelt retractor, and lift off this cover.
Remove all the screws holding on the large panel. The only
tricky part is getting to the two screws at the rear seatbelt
retractor - there is not much space, so you will need a short
screwdriver. I used a long Phillips screwdriver bit with a socket
and it was easy. You don't need to take off any seatbelts - just
let the panel hang with the seatbelt still through it. |
|
|
|
4. The receiver is the large box forward of the speaker.
There is a 3-position switch on it marked SET 1 - FIX - SET 2.
You will find it easier to access this switch if you remove the
receiver from the car body. Move the switch to either SET
position (the two SET positions are in case you have two
transmitters with different codes), so that the receiver will
learn the new code. Press either button on the new transmitter.
Move the switch back to FIX, to retain the code. Test the
new remote operation - it should work. |
|
|
5. Reassemble everything, making sure that the antenna connector is snug in the receiver. You're done. ---Lloyd Wihl |
|
Question: If nobody knows where to get parts for the keyless
entry, how about getting a new one? Reply: I've found it very hard to locate new, or even used, keyless entry remotes
for my 2nd gen. So we're in the same boat. I see 1st gen ones on eBay and
parts forums every once in a while, but never 2nd gen ones. Bummer, cause
I'd love to be able to use the keyless entry. I did hear that you could get
them from a dealer new, but they ran like $80. I'm not paying that. Does
anyone else have any ideas on this? Reply: How about aftermarket [keyless entry remotes]?? Reply: Wouldn't that effect the factory security system? Well, maybe not. I guess
as long as the door gets unlocked, that's all the security system/alarm is
looking for. Or is the fact that the key is inserted and does it? I guess
I'd have to go back to the user's manual, cause for some reason I think that
an aftermarket system would not "unarm" the factory security system like a
factory keyless entry would. Again, it might just be the fact the door
locks physically. If that's the case, I suppose aftermarket would be OK. I
just didn't want to have to deal with disabling the factory stuff and
putting on a full aftermarket alarm. I don't see the point in a stand-alone
aftermarket keyless entry solution. Reply: I got a keyless entry / remote starter for [something] like $60. It still
arms and disarms the factory stuff, I think I just had to tap
the wire that the stock keyless entry unit uses. It is extremely
useful for several reasons - 1) I don't care about the silly
factory remotes anymore. 2) I now have remote start. 3) The
system works from almost 1/4 mile away instead of almost 1/4 of
a yard. And yes, it is a 6-speed, and yes, I did say remote start. Reply: That sounds pretty promising Brian. Does
this unit also serve as an alarm? Do you happen to use a turbo timer? I'm
wondering what effect that would have on the alarm features. I can search on that. What
brand/model is the unit you put on your car? Reply: I got it from www.12voltdirect.com. I think it was
the CS324. It has a jumper you remove to set the thing up for remote
start of a manual transmission vehicle. It took me a while
to find all the right wires and such, but once I got it all
setup it was pretty nice. And I do use a turbo timer, they don't interfere with each
other at all. The one I got does not have its own alarm, it
only utilizes the factory unit. They have some others on
there that come with an alarm, but I haven't tried any of them. Reply: I have an aftermarket alarm on my '93 Stealth TT, because when I bought it, it did not come with the factory remotes. I have an AutoPage RF-7000 alarm, and did not disable the factory security system. The two do not interfere as long as I wait until the doors are closed before I arm the alarm. If I arm the alarm while the door is closing and it locks before it's closed, then both alarms are armed. When I disarm the AutoPage using the remote, it unlocks the door, but since the door key switch is not used, the factory alarm does not disarm and therefore the factory alarm goes off. I have to close the door and unlock it with the key to disarm it then. I rarely make this mistake, so I haven't investigated how to prevent it yet. Maybe that will be something willI look at this weekend. |
Questions about your
car???
Ask the other owners--
On our FREE mailing list!
Click HERE
