Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, November 6
2001 Volume 01 : Number
666
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:54:26 -0800
From: "Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
tires wearing
Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels
of a '93
Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that the
car can't
be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the rear tires
need
to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly just an
adjustment
problem or is there something else that might be wrong.
Fortunately it
isn't my car but belongs to an acquaintance; I don't know what
all has
been tried that didn't work. Is this likely to be a fixable
problem and
where should he begin looking. Thanks for all
input.
Ann
also a '93 Stealth AWD TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 21:04:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear tires wearing
You have a shop that cant align for
squat..thats why.
I lived with substandard alignments for years and was
ALWAYS told I had
"something" bent..even by Capitol Mitsu here in
town.
Once I went to Custom Alignment, they had it properly aligned, and
showed
me where everyone fuged up for years within 45min.
On Mon, 5
Nov 2001, Ann Koch wrote:
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to why
the back wheels of a '93
> Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much?
I was told that the car can't
> be adjusted in the rear any more and
consequentially the rear tires need
> to be rotated every 3K miles.
Is this possibly just an adjustment
> problem or is there something else
that might be wrong. Fortunately it
> isn't my car but belongs to an
acquaintance; I don't know what all has
> been tried that didn't
work. Is this likely to be a fixable problem and
> where should he
begin looking. Thanks for all input.
>
> Ann
> also a
'93 Stealth AWD TT
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 21:43:11
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear tires wearing
A proper alignment would of course be the first order
of business, additional
info would be helpful. Where is the wear occuring ???
Is the car lowered or
are there any other suspension
mods.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ann Koch <
akoch@sonic.net>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 05, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rear tires
wearing
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels of
a '93
> Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that
the car can't
> be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the
rear tires need
> to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly
just an adjustment
> problem or is there something else that might be
wrong. Fortunately it
> isn't my car but belongs to an acquaintance;
I don't know what all has
> been tried that didn't work. Is this
likely to be a fixable problem and
> where should he begin looking.
Thanks for all input.
>
> Ann
> also a '93 Stealth AWD
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 01:04:19
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear tires wearing
Speaking of proper
alignment,
Does anybody know of a reliable shop that
can handle a '95 VR4 in either
the Lansing, MI area or (more preferably) the
Chicago area?
Thanks,
Alex
with a '95
VR4 that's spent 4 weeks and counting in the shop because the
rear drive
shaft doesn't ship with bushings.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 05, 2001 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear tires
wearing
> You have a shop that cant align for squat..thats
why.
>
> I lived with substandard alignments for years and was
ALWAYS told I had
> "something" bent..even by Capitol Mitsu here in
town.
>
> Once I went to Custom Alignment, they had it properly
aligned, and showed
> me where everyone fuged up for years within
45min.
>
> On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Ann Koch wrote:
>
> >
Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels of a '93
> >
Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that the car
can't
> > be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the rear
tires need
> > to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly
just an adjustment
> > problem or is there something else that might be
wrong. Fortunately it
> > isn't my car but belongs to an
acquaintance; I don't know what all has
> > been tried that didn't
work. Is this likely to be a fixable problem and
> > where should
he begin looking. Thanks for all input.
> >
> >
Ann
> > also a '93 Stealth AWD TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 07:54:45
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear tires wearing
I have the same problem and the same answers!!
They say my frame is bent.
Bull!! Can you get your alignment shop to detail
their procedure?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 12:05
AM
To: Ann Koch
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear tires
wearing
You have a shop that cant align for squat..thats why.
I
lived with substandard alignments for years and was ALWAYS told I
had
"something" bent..even by Capitol Mitsu here in town.
Once I went
to Custom Alignment, they had it properly aligned, and showed
me where
everyone fuged up for years within 45min.
On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Ann Koch
wrote:
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels of
a '93
> Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that
the car can't
> be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the
rear tires need
> to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly
just an adjustment
> problem or is there something else that might be
wrong. Fortunately it
> isn't my car but belongs to an acquaintance;
I don't know what all has
> been tried that didn't work. Is this
likely to be a fixable problem and
> where should he begin looking.
Thanks for all input.
>
> Ann
> also a '93 Stealth AWD
TT
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:02:05
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear tires wearing
One possiblilty is that the alignment shop
is trying to do the alignment
without disconnecting the all wheel steering
linkage. What is the pattern
of wear on the rear
tires?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ann
Koch [SMTP:akoch@sonic.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 10:54
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Rear tires wearing
>
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels of a
'93
> Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that the
car can't
> be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the rear
tires need
> to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly just an
adjustment
> problem or is there something else that might be wrong.
Fortunately it
> isn't my car but belongs to an acquaintance; I don't know
what all has
> been tried that didn't work. Is this likely to be a
fixable problem and
> where should he begin looking. Thanks for all
input.
>
> Ann
> also a '93 Stealth AWD TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 07:10:29
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear tires wearing
Yes.
1) Make an
appointment.
Honestly..any shop isnt gonna hand out free information on
something so
basis..they want you to drive there.
Thats pretty much
it. Alignments are not rocket science, they just have
to understand
what theyre doing.
On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Payne, Scott wrote:
> I
have the same problem and the same answers!! They say my frame is bent.
>
Bull!! Can you get your alignment shop to detail their procedure?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001
12:05 AM
> To: Ann Koch
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear tires wearing
>
>
> You have a shop that cant align for
squat..thats why.
>
> I lived with substandard alignments for years
and was ALWAYS told I had
> "something" bent..even by Capitol Mitsu here
in town.
>
> Once I went to Custom Alignment, they had it properly
aligned, and showed
> me where everyone fuged up for years within
45min.
>
> On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Ann Koch wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to why the back wheels of a '93
>
> Stealth AWD TT would wear tires too much? I was told that the car
can't
> > be adjusted in the rear any more and consequentially the rear
tires need
> > to be rotated every 3K miles. Is this possibly
just an adjustment
> > problem or is there something else that might be
wrong. Fortunately it
> > isn't my car but belongs to an
acquaintance; I don't know what all has
> > been tried that didn't
work. Is this likely to be a fixable problem and
> > where should
he begin looking. Thanks for all input.
> >
> >
Ann
> > also a '93 Stealth AWD TT
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:25:02
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: 18
Inch wheels on a Base 3kGT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne
A Bonnett" <
app1wxb@ups.com>
>
Hey all, quick question for you. I'm wanting to get 18 inch wheels for
my
Base 3kGT, but I have a question on wheel width, and such. I
currently have
the 16in stock wheels.
> I want to get SSR Competition
wheels, and was wondering what width I need
(8, 8.5, or 9 inch). Any
thoughts on these wheels?
> Is it possible to move up to a wider tire
(with the 9inch say 255 or 265
instead 245) without the possibility of
rubbing?
> If there would be a problem with rubbing, would you recommend
using a
wheel spacer? Is the extra width really worth the
hassle?
> Any thoughts on a good street tire to be used every so often for
auto-x?
> Ok, so I had more than just a quick question..... Sorry
:)
> Wayne
I'm using the same wheels Nissa had on her VR4 on my
(15" stock wheel) Base
Stealth SOHC. Gewalt Type-S 18x9, w/ Yoko AVS
Intermediate 265/35ZR18 on
them. No rubbing, no spacers, great
handling, but you want to keep them at
a healthy inflation, since any wide
tire will "track" any ruts or lines in
the highway much more. If you're
in an area where it rains a lot, be aware
that wide tires will hydroplane
much more than narrow ones. That's another
good reason to keep up the
inflation, since a squat tire will hydroplane
more one that's pumped
up. I use 40F/34R tooling around town, 43F/37R on
the highway, 46F/40R
on the track or in the rain. I think Nissa & Geoff
used these for
Auto-X a couple of times before I bought them, but you'll
have to ask
them. I've used them at the track many times and I like them,
but they
are nowhere near as gummy as a good track tire (e.g.: Yoko A032).
And this
low profile looks great, too, IMO:
www.Team3S.com/THill.htmRead
Cody's Page on plus-sizing on our website for acceptable sizes, widths
to
maintain the proper overall tire diameter:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 10:02:16
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Motive Products Power Bleeder
I'm new to the list and after searching
FAQs on 3S sites I have yet to find
mention of anyone using the Motive
Products Power Bleeder to bleed brakes.
I have seen mention of use of
Speedbleeders (check valve fittings).
I'm wondering if anyone has used
the Motive Products Power Bleeder and if
they would recommend it. It sounds
like it does a great job (based on their
website). Also, if anyone has a
good source to pay less than retail for it,
I'd like to know.
Here is
the link to Motive's web site:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htmThanks
for your help.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 13:09:07
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motive Products Power Bleeder
That looks real nice and I have
seen similar things at the track. Like
others though the car sucks
enough money out of my wallet so I went with
the $0.89 worth of clear PVC
tubing from the Home Depot, attach that to
the bleed screw (SpeedBleeders),
and have a friend pump the brakes.
This bleeds into an empty brake fluid
bottle.
I tried a pump-type of hand brake bleeder but it did not make
enough
pressure because of small leaks where the hose attached. And I
have had
to do this on hot brakes (not only mine but a friend who did a
double
session and needed a quick refresh of fluid) and had to
sacrifice
several inches of the PVC tubing since it basically deforms and
melts
when hitting hot caliper bleed screws. I would not want to
keep
chopping off the end of something like this.
Still ... good
product for someone who doesn't want to get as messy. Oh
yeah ... and a
couple cents on "inspection gloves" to keep the brake
fluid off the
hands.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Big Reds with SpeedBleeders
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
Sent: Tuesday, November
06, 2001 13:02
I'm new to the list and after searching FAQs on 3S
sites I have yet to
find
mention of anyone using the Motive Products
Power Bleeder to bleed
brakes.
I have seen mention of use of
Speedbleeders (check valve fittings).
I'm wondering if anyone has used
the Motive Products Power Bleeder and
if
they would recommend it. It
sounds like it does a great job (based on
their
website). Also, if anyone
has a good source to pay less than retail for
it,
I'd like to
know.
Here is the link to Motive's web site:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htmThanks
for your help.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 10:59:59
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Motive Products Power Bleeder
I have used the motive products
bleeder on my BMW and it works great. The
only thing I would check is to make
sure the fitting that attaches to the
master cylinder is the right size. If
it won't fit you are out of luck, but
if it does fit then you will like the
result.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:35:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Z MAX (fwd)
Why oil addatives are -all- crap.
Team3s
content: Dont put this type of stuff in a 3S.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001
13:03:50 -0600
From:
sokay9@rockwellcollins.comTo:
supras@supras.comSubject: Z
MAX
Hey all,
There have been a few questions about using Z Max and
the consensus is NO.
Here is an article that drives the point home.
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htmStuart
88NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 14:03:44
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shocks
I am about to give up on Penske. I don't think they are
ever going to make
me a shock.
Has anyone ordered any GABs or similar
shocks recently?
From whom and for how much?
Last I heard, it was a 13
week wait for GABs, if you got them at all. Cyrus
Nassiri was getting a set
last November, through a friend of a friend, but
I haven't heard any more on
availability.
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 13:19:37
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
I am considering replacing my front
rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
Speedtoys.com has what looks to be a pretty good
deal, although it's $40 to
slot and an additional $40 to cryo treat each
rotor. They claim that cryo
treating (I presume they dip the rotors in
liquid nitrogen) reduces the
tendency of the rotors to warp.
I'm
wading into maintenance/upgrades to my car a little at a time. Thus, I
am
putting off any major modification to the brakes and am looking toward
the
rotor/pad replacement. I am also going to upgrade the fluid to ATE Typ
200/Super Blue.
I am curious about:
(1) any experience with
Speedtoys.com,
(2) if there are better deals than Speedtoys.com,
(3) and
opinions on the value of slotting and cryo treating.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:22:55
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@Maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
I have had very service from
Geoff Mohler at Speed Toys.
He even puts up with my harassment, poor
man.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:20 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
I am considering replacing my
front rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
Speedtoys.com has what looks to be a pretty
good deal, although it's $40 to
slot and an additional $40 to cryo treat
each rotor. They claim that cryo
treating (I presume they dip the rotors in
liquid nitrogen) reduces the
tendency of the rotors to warp.
I'm
wading into maintenance/upgrades to my car a little at a time. Thus, I
am
putting off any major modification to the brakes and am looking toward
the
rotor/pad replacement. I am also going to upgrade the fluid to ATE Typ
200/Super Blue.
I am curious about:
(1) any experience with
Speedtoys.com,
(2) if there are better deals than Speedtoys.com,
(3) and
opinions on the value of slotting and cryo treating.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:24:56
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@Maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
That should say "good
service", sorry.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:23 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
I have had very service
from Geoff Mohler at Speed Toys.
He even puts up with my harassment, poor
man.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:20 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
I am considering replacing my
front rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
Speedtoys.com has what looks to be a pretty
good deal, although it's $40 to
slot and an additional $40 to cryo treat
each rotor. They claim that cryo
treating (I presume they dip the rotors in
liquid nitrogen) reduces the
tendency of the rotors to warp.
I'm
wading into maintenance/upgrades to my car a little at a time. Thus, I
am
putting off any major modification to the brakes and am looking toward
the
rotor/pad replacement. I am also going to upgrade the fluid to ATE Typ
200/Super Blue.
I am curious about:
(1) any experience with
Speedtoys.com,
(2) if there are better deals than Speedtoys.com,
(3) and
opinions on the value of slotting and cryo treating.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 15:50:56
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
A
>I am curious
about:
>(1) any experience with Speedtoys.com,
Yeah, Geoff is OK.
He doesn't know beans about water injection onto brakes,
otherwise he's
pretty good.
>(2) if there are better deals than
Speedtoys.com,
Probably, but you won't be dealing with ONE OF US. Geoff
is one of us.
>(3) and opinions on the value of slotting and cryo
treating.
Forget slotting. Waste of time and money, and it leads to
cracking of the
rotor. Slotting went out with button shoes. Yes to cryo
treatment. It
really works.,
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 w/Big Red
brakes, Porterfield rotors, w/cryo
treatment.
>
>Thanks.
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 17:32:57
-0500
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Z MAX (fwd)
Thanks Geoff,
I was gonna put some in my
tranny and see if they would honor their
warranty,(I need a new 2nd gear
syncro).Guess thats bull also!LOL
RICK
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
Why oil addatives are -all- crap.
>
> Team3s content: Dont put
this type of stuff in a 3S.
>
> ---
> Geoff
Mohler
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date:
Tue, 6 Nov 2001 13:03:50 -0600
> From:
sokay9@rockwellcollins.com>
To:
supras@supras.com> Subject: Z
MAX
>
> Hey all,
>
> There have been a few questions
about using Z Max and the consensus is NO.
> Here is an article that
drives the point home.
>
>
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm>
>
Stuart 88NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:46:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motive Products Power Bleeder
So can this also be used for other
things like brake bleeding? I did
not read it but the system like this
that I saw was also for a master
cylinder bleeding system.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Andrew D. Woll
Sent:
Tuesday, November 06, 2001 14:00
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Motive Products Power Bleeder
I have used the motive products
bleeder on my BMW and it works great.
The
only thing I would check is to
make sure the fitting that attaches to
the
master cylinder is the right
size. If it won't fit you are out of luck,
but
if it does fit then you
will like the result.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:56:17
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
SpeedToys is the only place
to deal with on here as Geoff is one of us.
He uses PayPal, ships promptly,
stays up all hours of the night helping
with problems if necessary, and has
great pictures and video of his
track days. If you DO find a better
deal then tell Geoff and he will
give that place a call to get a special and
pass the same deal to us ...
what a pal.
Ask me offline for my opinion
of cryo-treating, Michael.
Brake fluid should be Motul 600 for all out
performance of fluid but if
it is a street-only car then the ATE should do
well. I like the Motul
600 because it eliminates all the guesswork that
the fluid is the
problem.
Cryo-treating, contrary to what you think,
is not dipping something in
liquid nitrogen. As this would cryo-treat
it the process will also turn
a rose as brittle as ice or a banana into a
hammer. I believe the
cryo-treating of rotors and such is more of a
deep freeze process. I
think Andy Lin on here (who sells the Carbotech
Panther and Panther Plus
pads) says it takes about 4 processes or maybe that
was 4 days. Anyway,
it is not just dip and ship but more like freeze,
let equalize, freeze
again, equalize, etc. This gets the particles all
the way through the
rotor to be nice and uniform or something like
that.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, Big Reds, Motul 600, SS lines, Porterfield
cryo-treated
rotors, Porterfield pads (all but the calipers and lines are
from Geoff)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael
Gerhard
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 16:20
I am considering
replacing my front rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
Speedtoys.com has what looks
to be a pretty good deal, although it's $40
to
slot and an additional $40
to cryo treat each rotor. They claim that
cryo
treating (I presume they
dip the rotors in liquid nitrogen) reduces the
tendency of the rotors to
warp.
I'm wading into maintenance/upgrades to my car a little at a time.
Thus,
I
am putting off any major modification to the brakes and am
looking
toward
the rotor/pad replacement. I am also going to upgrade the
fluid to ATE
Typ
200/Super Blue.
I am curious about:
(1) any
experience with Speedtoys.com,
(2) if there are better deals than
Speedtoys.com,
(3) and opinions on the value of slotting and cryo
treating.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:18:25
-0500
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brakes/Rotors
I have been reading up the FAQs on brakes and rotors. Has
anyone ever heard
of EBC brakes and rotors? When I bought my Stealth they had
after market
brakes and the squeal from them is driving me crazy. I have been
looking
into getting new brakes. Any suggestions?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:04:38
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brakes/Rotors
Eric,
What car do you have, what application
will the brakes see most often,
how much is available to spend on
them?
I think from what I have heard the EBC is a good "cheap"
alternative to
street pads that will see some heat. I think they have
other levels
(EBC Green is the common one but I think Red is also in
there).
I'm not sure there are many street pads worth their money except
for
Porterfield R4S pads. Hawk Blue eat rotors when cold, EBC squeak,
etc.
Don't forget you can always do the Pep Boys or Sears lifetime special
of
$99.00 or so and just replace the pads twice a year. It's
under
warranty that way.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, Big Reds, yadda,
yadda, yadda
- -----Original Message-----
From: eric
Sent: Tuesday,
November 06, 2001 18:18
I have been reading up the FAQs on brakes and
rotors. Has anyone ever
heard
of EBC brakes and rotors? When I bought my
Stealth they had after market
brakes and the squeal from them is driving me
crazy. I have been looking
into getting new brakes. Any
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:25:01
-0500
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@TheOffice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Power loss
Hi all,
for the longest time I've had a problem
on my 92 RT. Below 3k revs there is
a definite lack of power, I mean it pulls
off and everything but as soon as
it gets above about 3k, it's as if a turbo
kicked in (Pushed to the back of
the seat stuff) I've had the engine checked
and the belts checked for
tightness but I have no idea . Does anyone else
?
thanks
Calum
92 baby blue RT
Calum@TheOffice.netwww.Canalytical.comAn ISO 17025
company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:51:32
-0500
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes/Rotors
I have a 93 Stealth ES, base model. It is my first
experience with
upgrading. I want something for back and forth to work but I
also want to
race down the line. From what I have read EBC has three types of
pads:
1)Green - roadsport
2)Red - heavy cars/fast road use
3)Yellow
- "flagship race material"
They also sell the rotors that are grooved and
cross drilled.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 06, 2001 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brakes/Rotors
> Eric,
>
> What car do you have, what
application will the brakes see most often,
> how much is available to
spend on them?
>
> I think from what I have heard the EBC is a good
"cheap" alternative to
> street pads that will see some heat. I
think they have other levels
> (EBC Green is the common one but I think
Red is also in there).
>
> I'm not sure there are many street pads
worth their money except for
> Porterfield R4S pads. Hawk Blue eat
rotors when cold, EBC squeak, etc.
> Don't forget you can always do the
Pep Boys or Sears lifetime special of
> $99.00 or so and just replace the
pads twice a year. It's under
> warranty that way.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4, Big Reds, yadda, yadda, yadda
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: eric
> Sent: Tuesday, November
06, 2001 18:18
>
>
> I have been reading up the FAQs on brakes
and rotors. Has anyone ever
> heard
> of EBC brakes and rotors? When
I bought my Stealth they had after market
> brakes and the squeal from
them is driving me crazy. I have been looking
> into getting new brakes.
Any suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:58:16
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
Horse hockey..no team3s
content..my bad.
I meant to follow up with:
And speaking of Jim, I
should have pricies on OEM 2nd gen 2pc rotor
upgrades very soon as
well.
On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Floyd, Jim wrote:
>
> I have
had very service from Geoff Mohler at Speed Toys.
> He even puts up with
my harassment, poor man.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Michael Gerhard [mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Tuesday, November
06, 2001 2:20 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
>
>
> I
am considering replacing my front rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
>
Speedtoys.com has what looks to be a pretty good deal, although it's $40 to
> slot and an additional $40 to cryo treat each rotor. They claim that
cryo
> treating (I presume they dip the rotors in liquid nitrogen)
reduces the
> tendency of the rotors to warp.
>
> I'm wading
into maintenance/upgrades to my car a little at a time. Thus, I
> am
putting off any major modification to the brakes and am looking toward
>
the rotor/pad replacement. I am also going to upgrade the fluid to ATE Typ
> 200/Super Blue.
>
> I am curious about:
> (1) any
experience with Speedtoys.com,
> (2) if there are better deals than
Speedtoys.com,
> (3) and opinions on the value of slotting and cryo
treating.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:05:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cryo treated rotors / Speedtoys.com
Careful what you promise
for me. *g*
On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>
SpeedToys is the only place to deal with on here as Geoff is one of us.
>
He uses PayPal, ships promptly, stays up all hours of the night helping
>
with problems if necessary, and has great pictures and video of his
>
track days. If you DO find a better deal then tell Geoff and he
will
> give that place a call to get a special and pass the same deal to
us ...
> what a pal.
>
> Ask me offline for my opinion of
cryo-treating, Michael.
>
> Brake fluid should be Motul 600 for all
out performance of fluid but if
> it is a street-only car then the ATE
should do well. I like the Motul
> 600 because it eliminates all the
guesswork that the fluid is the
> problem.
>
> Cryo-treating,
contrary to what you think, is not dipping something in
> liquid
nitrogen. As this would cryo-treat it the process will also turn
> a
rose as brittle as ice or a banana into a hammer. I believe the
>
cryo-treating of rotors and such is more of a deep freeze process.
I
> think Andy Lin on here (who sells the Carbotech Panther and Panther
Plus
> pads) says it takes about 4 processes or maybe that was 4
days. Anyway,
> it is not just dip and ship but more like freeze,
let equalize, freeze
> again, equalize, etc. This gets the particles
all the way through the
> rotor to be nice and uniform or something like
that.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4, Big Reds, Motul 600, SS
lines, Porterfield cryo-treated
> rotors, Porterfield pads (all but the
calipers and lines are from Geoff)
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael Gerhard
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06,
2001 16:20
>
> I am considering replacing my front
rotors/pads on my '91 VR4.
> Speedtoys.com has what looks to be a pretty
good deal, although it's $40
> to
> slot and an additional $40 to
cryo treat each rotor. They claim that
> cryo
> treating (I presume
they dip the rotors in liquid nitrogen) reduces the
> tendency of the
rotors to warp.
>
> I'm wading into maintenance/upgrades to my car
a little at a time. Thus,
> I
> am putting off any major
modification to the brakes and am looking
> toward
> the rotor/pad
replacement. I am also going to upgrade the fluid to ATE
> Typ
>
200/Super Blue.
>
> I am curious about:
> (1) any experience
with Speedtoys.com,
> (2) if there are better deals than
Speedtoys.com,
> (3) and opinions on the value of slotting and cryo
treating.
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:06:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes/Rotors
Porterfields..EBS do dust a lot..and squeal
like stuck pigs..but are OK
brakes. Just annoying.
KVRs act the
same way im told.
On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, eric wrote:
> I have been
reading up the FAQs on brakes and rotors. Has anyone ever heard
> of EBC
brakes and rotors? When I bought my Stealth they had after market
> brakes
and the squeal from them is driving me crazy. I have been looking
> into
getting new brakes. Any suggestions?
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:57:41
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brakes/Rotors
When you say "race down the line" do you mean drag
racing? If so then I
think most drag racing venues have a considerable
(1/4 mile or so)
runoff area to slow down in. This is about 120 mph
over 1,200 feet.
Easy for even stock pads.
If you mean traffic light
racing and slamming on the brakes before the
next intersection then you
should do the Porterfield R4S. I have not
heard good things about EBC
except they are economical. When you are
putting your life on the line
and hoping your $47 pads will stop you at
120 mph then I would upgrade to
Porterfield. Life just isn't worth
saving that much
money.
Everyone sells rotors. Grooving is for rain applications so
water can
be vented before pad contact is made (or so pad contact can be
made).
Slotting is never used on the real track rotors on our cars ...
they
always lead to cracked rotors as Merritt notes and as was seen on
Chuck
Willis' son's car at a Kansas track.
Rotors. Same
thing. Not worth trusting you life to a few dollars
of
savings.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: eric
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001
18:52
I have a 93 Stealth ES, base model. It is my first experience
with
upgrading. I want something for back and forth to work but I also
want
to
race down the line. From what I have read EBC has three types of
pads:
1)Green - roadsport
2)Red - heavy cars/fast road use
3)Yellow
- "flagship race material"
They also sell the rotors that are grooved and
cross drilled.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 18:15:56
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Problem
Hey guys,
I have the following symptoms:
1.lumpy
idle/exhaust note
2. vibration which seems to be increasing when at 70mph or
so does not
seem to be related to acceleration or deceleration.Just know that
it was
more pronounced at the beginning of my drive and was diminishing
toward
the end.
Does this sound like a mix of problems or the same
problem. No black
smoke or anything, but was wondering if this could be turbo
related.
Still able to get max boost of 15 psi out of it, but this
strange
exhaust note and lumpy idle has been around since about my clutch
job
which would have had the shop messing with all kind of things.
The
vibration has just started over the past week or so. idle problem for
a
couple of months. Any additional brainstorming would help.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:13:29
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Shocks
I think GAB is out of business or bought by KYB. I
believe the best
aftermarket kit for our cars is the TEIN HA which comes with
springs, strut
adjustment knobs for rebound and compression changes and
height adjustment
and adjustable pillow ball mounts for about $1600 which I
have been told is
a big improvement on the ground control set-up. After
spending $250 for
Intrax springs and about $700 for new ECS struts, I think I
should have went
all out for the complete package when I did my
car.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, November 06, 2001 8:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Shocks
>I
am about to give up on Penske. I don't think they are ever going to
make
>me a shock.
>
>Has anyone ordered any GABs or similar
shocks recently?
>From whom and for how much?
>Last I heard, it was
a 13 week wait for GABs, if you got them at all. Cyrus
>Nassiri was
getting a set last November, through a friend of a friend, but
>I haven't
heard any more on availability.
>Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 21:59:20
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Viscous Coupler
Anyone had a viscous coupler go??? What were the sign and
symptoms? How
about a unit messed up by a bone head spinning the wheels on
the jacks?
Any info would help me diagnose a problem I am
having.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#666
***************************************