Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, September 4 2001
Volume 01 : Number
599
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Sep 2001 00:01:35 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
> Well, it's not complicated, but you
need the right tools,
> and some time. Will probably need a long
lever arm of
> some kind to lock the front axle from turning when
you
> unscrew the main axle nut.
You can just jam a screwdriver in
the cooling vanes of the brake rotors and
turn the rotor until the
screwdriver is jammed up against the brake caliper.
Works fine, and I've done
it on several 3/S and DSM cars with no ill
effects. Almost all have
required use of a 24" or longer breaker bar to get
the nut off,
however.
The "proper" way is to take the nuts off is to remove the center
caps from
your two front wheels and put the wheels back on and lower the car
to the
ground and then crank on the nuts through the center cap holes.
That's
pretty much a waste of time compared to the screwdriver
method.
I've encountered a couple cars where the splines on the hub are
so rusted to
the splines on the halfshafts that they simply can't be removed
without
risking damaging something. That really sucks.... (Or I
just need a bigger
hammer?)
An interesting thing I found out this
weekend while replacing a couple
tranny seals on a '98 3000GT SL was that you
can actually get the axles out
of the tranny without removing the axles from
either wheel hub. His were so
rusted to the hubs that I got desperate
enough to try finishing the job
without removing the axles completely from
the car. Its tight, but you can
get them out by only disconnecting the
struts and the tie rod end balljoint.
Don't know if that would work on an AWD
vehicle, but the dimensions of the
axles and tranny seemed very similar to
the Getrag setup.
Now if only there was a better way to get the darn
driver's side halfshaft
carrier bearing support unbolted/bolted....
Whoever designed these cars has
way smaller and more agile hands than I
do!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 10:31:51
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trivia 2
Here in Europe Mitsu speaks of 5 years although they
check the belts on
every inspection for cracks or bad signs. If then the
belt fails it is
their warranty that has to cover the damage if the client
was not informed
by the mechanic (written on the bill). They also say that
the timing belt
is always under stress even the engine is not running and
the rubber looses
it's flexibility and becomes harder so it will tend to
create cracks.
Interestinlgy they do not speak of the tensioner pulley
but more of the
tensioner itselfs as it seems a more critical part in this
area. IMHO,
doing a limited 60k service, only the belt tensioner and pulley
is what I'd
change.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>I asked my dealer the
same question a year ago. He didn't have an
>answer, so he contacted
the belt manufacturer. They recommended a
>belt change of 5-7 years
- 5 years if weather extremes are
>encountered, with an absolute maximum
of 7 years for milder
>environments. My '94 Stealth is definitely
due, even at 25,000 miles
>(40k Km). Although countless members have
encountered no problems
>even at 10 years on the original belt, you know
how pricey it can be
>if it suddenly fails. Both our cars are on
borrowed time, IMO...
>Let's do the 60k now, Darc. I was just
looking at Rich's 60k page
>this weekend. :-)
www.Team3S.com/60k.htm>
>Best,
>
>Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:30:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation...again
how did you test your TPS?
Basically, you have to connect it to an analog
ohmmeter in order to see the
problem that causes hesitation. The resistance
doesn't increase
smoothly as you rotate it. Instead it has discontinuities.
You are
unlikely to see this with a digital ohmmeter, and you are also
likely to
attribute the discontinuities to a "bad connection" with your
ohmmeter
leads.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose
[SMTP:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:22 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation...again
>
> My car is still
experiencing hesitation between 2-3,000 rpm. I have
> looked
> through quite a few of the archived posts and most of the hesitation
> problems were diagnosed as TPS sensor failure. I finally got
around to
> checking my TPS sensor and it was in spec.
>
>
The hesitation is most evident when the motor is still warming up, so I
>
think that rules out fuel problems (doesn't it run full rich during warm
> up?). It only happens when I am lightly accelerating, so it
probably
> isn't
> clutch related. I just replaced my plugs
and wires 6,000 miles ago, most
> likely not the problem. The
problem started about four weeks ago and I
> had
> not done
anything to the car around that time.
>
> What else can I check, O2
sensors? I am running an FIPK and test pipe,
> the
> boost
has never been raised and these are the only modifications that the
> car
has ever had.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael D. Crose
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:42:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
actually, I posted our experience with four VR4's
some time back. 3 ea
'93's and one '94. They each hit 60K miles
at different ages from 6 to 7
years and we replaced the timing belts
then. I can testify that a timing
belt can last 6 or 7 years without
replacement, based on an "N" of 4.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darc [SMTP:wce@telus.net]
> Sent: Monday,
September 03, 2001 6:13 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Trivia
2
>
> yo Team;
>
> Low traffic lately...not much in
terms of posted information over a
> great
> North
American (that's a whole continent) holiday weekend. Hope all of
>
your
> activity was superb!
>
> Sooo...here's trivia question
#2 (after the late great center of
> horizontal
> balance question).
This should be much easier...but will it be ;-)) Seems
> easier
anyway........
>
> If, the timing belt ( and hopefully water pump
and tensor pulley) is a
> replacement requirement every 60,000 miles
(that's every 100,000 kms
> outside
> the USA) ...then what is the
replacement increment in time (years) as
> opposed to distance
(miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92 Steed has low kms
> and
> no one
(that's nada) has supplied the answer.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:47:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
are you sure you can't remove and install
the studs one at a time without
removing the hub, just by rotating it where
the back of the stud is clear
(forward edge where the caliper
sits)?
the difficult part of removing the hub is getting the darned bolts
loose,
not pulling the hub off the axle.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: bdtrent
[SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 8:45
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>
> All,
>
> I need to pull my front hub to install longer
wheel studs. Does anyone
> know
> if I can simply use a wheel
puller to pull the hub from the steering
> nuckle?
> Assuming this
is the case, it sounds like a fairly easy job. Otherwise, I
> might
have to take my car to a professional who can hack up my car and get
>
paid, as opposed to me hacking up my car all by myself.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 07:03:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
And if you take a poll of owners who never change
thie timing belts..you
can probly come up with "I can testify that a timing
belt can last 80-90k
miles".
Not saying your math is bad, but 6-7yrs
isnt prudent if you just use the
average miles-per-year method the industry
uses to calculate all sorts
of warranties and lease issues..to reach
60K
On Tue, 4 Sep 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> actually, I
posted our experience with four VR4's some time back. 3 ea
> '93's
and one '94. They each hit 60K miles at different ages from 6 to 7
>
years and we replaced the timing belts then. I can testify that a
timing
> belt can last 6 or 7 years without replacement, based on an "N"
of 4.
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Darc [SMTP:wce@telus.net]
> > Sent:
Monday, September 03, 2001 6:13 PM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject:
Team3S: Trivia 2
> >
> > yo Team;
> >
> >
Low traffic lately...not much in terms of posted information over
a
> > great
> > North American (that's a whole continent)
holiday weekend. Hope all of
> > your
> > activity was
superb!
> >
> > Sooo...here's trivia question #2 (after the
late great center of
> > horizontal
> > balance question).
This should be much easier...but will it be ;-)) Seems
> > easier
anyway........
> >
> > If, the timing belt ( and hopefully
water pump and tensor pulley) is a
> > replacement requirement every
60,000 miles (that's every 100,000 kms
> > outside
> > the
USA) ...then what is the replacement increment in time (years) as
>
> opposed to distance (miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92 Steed has low
kms
> > and
> > no one (that's nada) has supplied the
answer.
> >
> > Best
> >
> >
Darc
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:03:05
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
What I did was remove the hub cap from the
wheels, mount the wheels lower
the car and use the weight of the car to hold
the wheel while loosening (not
removeing) the main axle nut. Process is
same for tightening. Just makes
for a lot of raising and
lowering.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ryan
Peterson [SMTP:ryanp@crcwnet.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 11:48
PM
> To: bdtrent; Team 3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Hub
Removal
>
> Well, it's not complicated, but you need the right
tools, and some time.
> Will probably need a long lever arm of some kind
to lock the front axle
> from
> turning when you unscrew the main
axle nut. The manual says you can have
> someone step on the brakes
for this, but I had no luck that way. I took a
> long piece of angle iron
and drilled holes for the lugs. Then braced that
> against the ground
while I cranked on the nut. Same thing in reverse for
> reinstall
(will need well over 100 ft-lbs of torque). Need a ball joint
> separator
for the lower ball and steering tie rod. Unbolt the strut,
> brakes,
and steering. Pull the hub out, then take it to a machine
shop
> so
> they can press out the hub. Likely you will need a new
bearing too, as
> this
> will probably tear it apart.
>
> Ryan Peterson
>
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of bdtrent
> Sent:
Monday, September 03, 2001 6:45 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Front Hub Removal
>
>
> All,
>
> I need to pull
my front hub to install longer wheel studs. Does anyone
>
know
> if I can simply use a wheel puller to pull the hub from the
steering
> nuckle?
> Assuming this is the case, it sounds like a
fairly easy job. Otherwise, I
> might have to take my car to a
professional who can hack up my car and get
> paid, as opposed to me
hacking up my car all by myself.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:16:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
It's funny how I get slammed when I say I change my
oil and filter after
every track event, but then I get slammed when I report
that four cars went
6 to seven years on the factory timing belt before
hitting 60K miles without
consequence.
The timing belt change is a
chunk of money and also big problems if it
breaks. Maybe you should
inspect it to see if it is cracking at 5 years and
quarterly after
that.
If you've got time and money to do it early, great, but don't get
everybody
scared about the years on their belt. The primary source of
deterioration
of belts is engine HOURS, that's time at temperature, which you
can equate
to MILES. Belt AGING is a secondary mechanism of
deterioration and depends
on ambient temperatures, temperature extremes, and
probably more on how much
air pollution where the car is garaged. While
I agree that running on an
aged belt is bad, I don't believe 7 years is
extreme, but I might think 8
years is getting there.
Wonder what Gates
(no note Bill) thinks?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04,
2001 9:03 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
>
> And if you take a poll of owners who never
change thie timing belts..you
> can probly come up with "I can testify
that a timing belt can last 80-90k
> miles".
>
> Not saying
your math is bad, but 6-7yrs isnt prudent if you just use the
> average
miles-per-year method the industry uses to calculate all sorts
> of
warranties and lease issues..to reach 60K
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 16:10:14
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?
I have been happy with my Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 tires. Dry traction is
similar to the Pirelli P7000SS they
replaced (though these are noisier when
stressed) and wet traction is
better. Durability is also better; they have
been on for 40k miles now
and have at least another 20k left in them.
- - --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 07:28:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
I didnt slam anyone. I said changing oil every
few dozen miles of "track"
time is probly a waste of $.
Changing a
timing belt at the PROBABLE time limit of 60k isnt a waste of
$.
Bad
oil still work, bad belts dont...if you go that route of thinking.
On
Tue, 4 Sep 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> It's funny how I get
slammed when I say I change my oil and filter after
> every track event,
but then I get slammed when I report that four cars went
> 6 to seven
years on the factory timing belt before hitting 60K miles without
>
consequence.
>
> The timing belt change is a chunk of money and
also big problems if it
> breaks. Maybe you should inspect it to see
if it is cracking at 5 years and
> quarterly after that.
>
>
If you've got time and money to do it early, great, but don't get
everybody
> scared about the years on their belt. The primary source
of deterioration
> of belts is engine HOURS, that's time at temperature,
which you can equate
> to MILES. Belt AGING is a secondary mechanism
of deterioration and depends
> on ambient temperatures, temperature
extremes, and probably more on how much
> air pollution where the car is
garaged. While I agree that running on an
> aged belt is bad, I
don't believe 7 years is extreme, but I might think 8
> years is getting
there.
>
> Wonder what Gates (no note Bill) thinks?
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001
9:03 AM
> > To: Willis, Charles E.
> > Cc: Team3S
> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> >
> > And if you take a poll
of owners who never change thie timing belts..you
> > can probly come
up with "I can testify that a timing belt can last 80-90k
> >
miles".
> >
> > Not saying your math is bad, but 6-7yrs isnt
prudent if you just use the
> > average miles-per-year method the
industry uses to calculate all sorts
> > of warranties and lease
issues..to reach 60K
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:02:24
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> I didnt slam anyone. I said changing oil
every few dozen miles of "track"
> time is probly a waste of
$.
[Willis, Charles E.]
200 miles on the track is probably
equivalent to 2000 miles on the
road. Add the mileage to and from the
track to that.
> Changing a timing belt at the PROBABLE time limit
of 60k isnt a waste of
> $.
>
> Bad oil still work, bad belts
dont...if you go that route of thinking.
[Willis, Charles E.] Bad oil
still only works marginally well at
what it's supposed to do, lubricate
engine parts rather than contaminate
engine parts with debris and accelerate
wear by reduced pH.
[Willis, Charles E.] If you equate "old" belts with
"bad" belts,
then they still work as long as they turn the cams without
slipping a notch.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:27:10
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Wear on Panther Plus pads
Finally got the pads off the car
yesterday. Car's been sitting since
Heartland Park. Here are the
results.
These are stock calipers with Stillen crossdrilled Sport rotors
on a '94
VR4.
Front pads were Panther Plus compound.
Rear pads were
Panther compound custom made for 2nd gen VR4 with one track
event
already.
Total sessions = Saturday 4 and Sunday 6 (Jim drove the car
also, took Rich
in different run group) = 10 sessions (plus round trip
Houston to Topeka)
Both front and rear pads had same remaining
thickness.
Brand new Panther Plus thickness = 1/2" + 3/32" - 3/16" backer
= 0.40625"
(standard thickness of Mitsu pads is 10 mm (0.39") =
3/8")
(limit = 2 mm (0.08") = 5/64")
Pad after Heartland = 1/2"-3/16"
backer = 0.3135"
Pad wear = 0.083" for ten sessions.
At this
rate, I would use 0.32625" of pad material in 3.93 events of
ten
sessions. Usual events are 8 sessions, and the limit for
replacement is
equivalent to the wear for one event so I figure I can get 4
events from
these pads without geting down to the backer.
These
results are consistent with the measurements I made with the Panther
pads on
my '93 VR4 only better. Then I was seeing about 0.01" wear per
session.
Again, I expected to get four events per set of pads versus two
events on the
Stillen Metal Matrix pads, or one event for the Carbon
Kevlar
pads.
Chuck Willis
PS next event is this weekend with
another in three weeks and another in
October. I'll let y'all know how
the pads (and my numbers) hold up.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:37:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wear on Panther Plus pads
by the way, I forgot to mention
that these brake a heck of a lot better than
the silly Metal Matrix things -
no gassing, no fade, minimal dusting, and I
use them on the street and the
track. Haven't put them back on the car yet.
Also there is some uneven
wear on the rear pads, the material is higher on
one edge of the pad than the
other but only by about 1/32" or so. Don't have
the rotors back fomr the
shop, but they don't look like the pads destroyed
them
either.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Willis, Charles E.
>
[SMTP:cewillis@tch-relay-1.texaschildrenshospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday,
September 04, 2001 10:27 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Wear on
Panther Plus pads
>
> Finally got the pads off the car
yesterday. Car's been sitting since
> Heartland Park. Here are the
results.
>
> These are stock calipers with Stillen crossdrilled
Sport rotors on a '94
> VR4.
>
> Front pads were Panther Plus
compound.
> Rear pads were Panther compound custom made for 2nd gen VR4
with one track
> event already.
>
> Total sessions = Saturday
4 and Sunday 6 (Jim drove the car also, took
> Rich
> in different
run group) = 10 sessions (plus round trip Houston to Topeka)
>
>
Both front and rear pads had same remaining thickness.
>
> Brand
new Panther Plus thickness = 1/2" + 3/32" - 3/16" backer = 0.40625"
>
(standard thickness of Mitsu pads is 10 mm (0.39") = 3/8")
>
>
(limit = 2 mm (0.08") = 5/64")
> Pad after Heartland = 1/2"-3/16" backer =
0.3135"
>
> Pad wear = 0.083" for ten sessions.
>
> At
this rate, I would use 0.32625" of pad material in 3.93 events of
ten
> sessions. Usual events are 8 sessions, and the limit for
replacement is
> equivalent to the wear for one event so I figure I can
get 4 events from
> these pads without geting down to the backer.
>
> These results are consistent with the measurements I made with the
Panther
> pads on my '93 VR4 only better. Then I was seeing about
0.01" wear per
> session. Again, I expected to get four events per set of
pads versus two
> events on the Stillen Metal Matrix pads, or one event
for the Carbon
> Kevlar
> pads.
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
> PS next event is this weekend with another in three
weeks and another in
> October. I'll let y'all know how the pads
(and my numbers) hold up.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:15:32
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wear on Panther Plus pads
Try turning those pads over to mad man Merritt
and see how long
they hold up
!!!
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Finally got the pads off the car yesterday. Car's been sitting
since
> Heartland Park. Here are the results.
> At this rate,
I would use 0.32625" of pad material in 3.93 events of ten
>
sessions. Usual events are 8 sessions, and the limit for replacement
is
> equivalent to the wear for one event so I figure I can get 4 events
from
> these pads without geting down to the backer.
>
>
These results are consistent with the measurements I made with the
Panther
> pads on my '93 VR4 only better. Then I was seeing about
0.01" wear per
> session. Again, I expected to get four events per set of
pads versus two
> events on the Stillen Metal Matrix pads, or one event
for the Carbon Kevlar
> pads.
>
> Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:38:58
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> 200 miles on the track is probably equivalent
to 2000
> miles on the road. Add the mileage to and from the
>
track to that.
I doubt it is that hard on today's synthetic
oils.
> Bad oil still only works marginally well at what it's
>
supposed to do, lubricate engine parts rather than
> contaminate engine
parts with debris and accelerate
> wear by reduced pH.
Oil that's
been run hard an hour or two on the track is still going to
lubricate just as
well as when you put it in. Synthetics don't suffer
thermal breakdown
nearly as much as dinosaur oil. If your oil filter is
working properly
(and you aren't using some crappy filter like Fram), there
shouldn't be any
"debris" in your oil either.
Sure, change the oil after the track if you
want to. It might be
unneccessary, but if it makes you feel better then
go for it. Much better
choice than the opposite end of the spectrum
where someone goes 12,000 miles
on the same oil.
> If you equate
"old" belts with "bad" belts, then they
> still work as long as they turn
the cams without
> slipping a notch.
...but the probability of
failure gets higher with age and number of heat
cycles. If you go a
little long on an oil change it isn't going to destroy
your motor. If
you go a little long on the timing belt and it fails kiss a
minimum of $3000
goodbye.
Comparing oil and timing belts isn't even comparing fruit to
nuts, much less
apples to apples.
Would you race on 7-year-old racing
tires?
Why take the chance?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 10:36:31
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: removing axle nut (was hub removal)
Doesn't anyone have air in
their garages?
I just throw a 32mm impact socket on my impact
wrench(IR2131) and the nuts
zip right off(has worked every time). None
of this up and down monkey
business.
When I install them I have my
shop assistant(wife) just hold the brakes and
I can torque to
150ft/lbs.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>To:
Team 3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:03:05
-0500
>
>What I did was remove the hub cap from the wheels, mount
the wheels lower
>the car and use the weight of the car to hold the wheel
while loosening
>(not
>removing) the main axle nut. Process
is same for tightening. Just makes
>for a lot of raising and
lowering.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:55:51
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: for sale - cover plates available
Not to beat this thing to death
but I have many for sale. Go to
www.ek2mfg.com to see them.
45.00 shipped to
the 48 with bolts
Enjoy the day
Bob K.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 12:19:46
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hesitation...again
Charles,
I have a fast responding
digital multi-meter, it isn't as smooth as an
analog meter would be, but it
gave a decent reading.
The hesitation is now gone. I ran out of
Redline SL-1 fuel system
cleaner/treatment about the same time the
hesitation started and this
weekend I bought some more. After a day of
driving with the SL-1 in the gas
the hesitation is totally gone. Could
I have just gotten two tanks of bad
gas or is there some other problem that
the SL-1 maybe coving up?
Michael D. Crose
>From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation...again
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:30:46
-0500
>
>how did you test your TPS? Basically, you have to
connect it to an analog
>ohmmeter in order to see the problem that causes
hesitation. The
>resistance
>doesn't increase smoothly as you
rotate it. Instead it has
>discontinuities.
>You are unlikely
to see this with a digital ohmmeter, and you are also
>likely to attribute
the discontinuities to a "bad connection" with your
>ohmmeter
leads.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:05:02
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation...again
yes, bad gas can do that, about once a
year I run injector cleaner through a
tank of gas and that sems to help get
rid of condensate in the fuel tank.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose [SMTP:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:20 AM
> To:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation...again
>
> Charles,
>
> I have a fast responding digital multi-meter, it isn't as smooth as an
> analog meter would be, but it gave a decent reading.
>
>
The hesitation is now gone. I ran out of Redline SL-1 fuel system
>
cleaner/treatment about the same time the hesitation started and this
>
weekend I bought some more. After a day of driving with the SL-1 in
the
> gas
> the hesitation is totally gone. Could I have just
gotten two tanks of bad
>
> gas or is there some other problem that
the SL-1 maybe coving up?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:28:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> I doubt it is that hard on today's synthetic
oils.
- ---
Agreed, whats hard on racing is ugly high temps (synths
dont even sweat
this, so its a non-issue) and ugly high boost pressures cause
a lot of
fuel dilution in the oil..but is anyone here curcuit racing at
20+psi?
Rotary engines are notorious for fuel dilution..so on the RX7-TT I do
have
to swap out oil every other race event or I start seeing 10-15% fuel in
my
oil.
> > Bad oil still only works marginally well at
what it's
> > supposed to do, lubricate engine parts rather
than
> > contaminate engine parts with debris and accelerate
>
> wear by reduced pH.
>
> Oil that's been run hard an hour or
two on the track is still going to
> lubricate just as well as when you
put it in. Synthetics don't suffer
> thermal breakdown nearly as
much as dinosaur oil. If your oil filter is
> working properly (and
you aren't using some crappy filter like Fram), there
> shouldn't be any
"debris" in your oil either.
>
> Sure, change the oil after the
track if you want to. It might be
> unneccessary, but if it makes
you feel better then go for it. Much better
> choice than the
opposite end of the spectrum where someone goes 12,000 miles
> on the same
oil.
>
> > If you equate "old" belts with "bad" belts, then
they
> > still work as long as they turn the cams without
> >
slipping a notch.
>
> ...but the probability of failure gets higher
with age and number of heat
> cycles. If you go a little long on an
oil change it isn't going to destroy
> your motor. If you go a
little long on the timing belt and it fails kiss a
> minimum of $3000
goodbye.
>
> Comparing oil and timing belts isn't even comparing
fruit to nuts, much less
> apples to apples.
>
> Would you
race on 7-year-old racing tires?
>
> Why take the chance?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:21:15
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: FS:
Complete Infinity Premium stereo from my '95 R/T TT on
E-bay
Hello,
I am selling the complete stereo system from my '95
R/T TT on E-bay. Check
it out - less than 24 hrs to go. Contains
pretty much everything (see
auction for detailed list). I'm even
including the CD DIN cable - good if
installing in a car that is not
pre-wired for this CD changer. Costs for
this alone is over $100 at the
stealership. Check it out at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594862734E-mail
any questions to
osk@mediaone.netThanks,
Oskar
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:34:58
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Blitz Question
Anybody tried this one yet?
S.B.C.-i Boost
controller
Heres the write up on it -
Ordinary turbo charged
vehicles have preset boost pressures which are lower
then the boost pressure
the turbocharger is capable of. This means that you
cannot obtain any further
boost pressure then the level it is already set
for. The Blitz SBC-i controls
the maximum ratio of the boost pressure,
making it possible to utilize the
full capacity of the turbocharger. SBC-i
accomodates both wastegate types.
Features include:
* 4 boost settings, scramble boost, warning and
limiter, peak hold and
digital boost display
* SBC i-D can work in
conjunction with Power Meter i-D via infrared
connection
* able to
choose boost measurements (PSI, BAR, Kg/cm2, and KPA)
* sequential dual
solenoid design for better boost response and boost
display.
$589.00
is best price I found so far....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:48:56
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
I have it. It's a very good unit. I still
learning all the features. I'm
going to buy the power meter to complete the
set.
The installation process is the same one as the Blitz DSBC.
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 04, 2001 1:35 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Blitz
Question
Anybody tried this one yet?
S.B.C.-i Boost
controller
Heres the write up on it -
Ordinary turbo charged
vehicles have preset boost pressures which are lower
then the boost pressure
the turbocharger is capable of. This means that you
cannot obtain any further
boost pressure then the level it is already set
for. The Blitz SBC-i controls
the maximum ratio of the boost pressure,
making it possible to utilize the
full capacity of the turbocharger. SBC-i
accomodates both wastegate types.
Features include:
* 4 boost settings, scramble boost, warning and
limiter, peak hold and
digital boost display
* SBC i-D can work in
conjunction with Power Meter i-D via infrared
connection
* able to
choose boost measurements (PSI, BAR, Kg/cm2, and KPA)
* sequential dual
solenoid design for better boost response and boost
display.
$589.00
is best price I found so far....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 10:56:45
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS CAMP Display Unit
Does anyone have any experience with this.
I ran across it and it looks
like it has a boost gauge, fuel flow, and a lot
of other graphs and
things that could help you dial your car in. Has anyone
used one or have
some experience with them as to what they can do. If this
will work as a
gauge like it looks like it will I may get this instead of
pillar
mounted gauges. Any info is appreciated.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:55:25
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS CAMP Display Unit
> Does anyone have any experience
with this. I ran across it
> and it looks like it has a boost gauge, fuel
flow, and a lot
> of other graphs and things that could help you dial
your car
> in. Has anyone used one or have some experience with them as
> to what they can do. If this will work as a gauge like it
>
looks like it will I may get this instead of pillar mounted
> gauges. Any
info is appreciated.
The boost gauge and other truly useful things
require you to have one of
HKS' electronic peak-hold gauges and a junction
box which HKS has
discontinued. Otherwise it'll measure RPM, a few
temps, an O2 sensor or two
and that's about it.
Each of the compatible
HKS gauges (Boost, EGT, etc.) are around $300 each.
Then of course you
need to find somewhere to mount a display, since that
isn't included
either. Most LCD panel displays are pretty much unusable in
daylight
also.
I looked at it too, but I decided on more conventional gauges
because of
these reasons.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:58:22
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Blitz Question
Cool, do you have any pictures of how and where
you mounted the unit?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios,
Victor L CIV [mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, September
04, 2001 2:49 PM
To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
I have it. It's a very good unit. I still
learning all the features. I'm
going to buy the power meter to complete the
set.
The installation process is the same one as the Blitz DSBC.
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 04, 2001 1:35 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Blitz
Question
Anybody tried this one yet?
S.B.C.-i Boost
controller
Heres the write up on it -
Ordinary turbo charged
vehicles have preset boost pressures which are lower
then the boost pressure
the turbocharger is capable of. This means that you
cannot obtain any further
boost pressure then the level it is already set
for. The Blitz SBC-i controls
the maximum ratio of the boost pressure,
making it possible to utilize the
full capacity of the turbocharger. SBC-i
accomodates both wastegate types.
Features include:
* 4 boost settings, scramble boost, warning and
limiter, peak hold and
digital boost display
* SBC i-D can work in
conjunction with Power Meter i-D via infrared
connection
* able to
choose boost measurements (PSI, BAR, Kg/cm2, and KPA)
* sequential dual
solenoid design for better boost response and boost
display.
$589.00
is best price I found so far....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:06:14
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04,
2001 12:28 PM
> To: Jannusch, Matt
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trivia 2
>
[Willis, Charles E.] 20 minutes per session x
8 sessions = 160
minutes at speed. Let's say a few hours instead of a
couple.
would I race on 7 year old tires? assuming they had plenty
of tread
and were stored properly (in a plastic bag, clean, with some sort of
silicon
dressing), yeah, I might try it, especially if I had inspected the
tires and
found them free from visible evidence of deterioration. And
especially if
they were free!
apples and oranges?
possibly. [Willis, Charles E.] I just think
it's funny (strange)
that we all have such divergent philosphies on what
cheap little things we
can do to bias toward success vs. the expensive
things we think are mandatory
to avoid catastrophic failures.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:03:08
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
Hi Scott:
Here is a threat in the 3si.org
with pictures on the Blitz SBC-i-D.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=93deae04352055142a8e2734fe24562f&threadid=40895&highlight=Blitz+SBCID
I
mount my one between the A/C vent and the Water temp gauge.
Bought my one
from MVB motors
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/default.aspThey
have it now at $558.40
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Payne, Scott
[mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:03 PM
To:
'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
Hate
to bug ya, but got one more question. Where did you get your S.B.C.-i
Boost
controller??
- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:49
PM
To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
I have it. It's a very good unit. I still
learning all the features. I'm
going to buy the power meter to complete the
set.
The installation process is the same one as the Blitz DSBC.
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 04, 2001 1:35 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Blitz
Question
Anybody tried this one yet?
S.B.C.-i Boost
controller
Heres the write up on it -
Ordinary turbo charged
vehicles have preset boost pressures which are lower
then the boost pressure
the turbocharger is capable of. This means that you
cannot obtain any further
boost pressure then the level it is already set
for. The Blitz SBC-i controls
the maximum ratio of the boost pressure,
making it possible to utilize the
full capacity of the turbocharger. SBC-i
accomodates both wastegate types.
Features include:
* 4 boost settings, scramble boost, warning and
limiter, peak hold and
digital boost display
* SBC i-D can work in
conjunction with Power Meter i-D via infrared
connection
* able to
choose boost measurements (PSI, BAR, Kg/cm2, and KPA)
* sequential dual
solenoid design for better boost response and boost
display.
$589.00
is best price I found so far....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:07:07
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
Check also this threat. You may be able to get
a better price.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=93deae04352055142a8e2734fe24562f&threadid=34269&highlight=Blitz+SBCID
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 4:03
PM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
Hi Scott:
Here is a threat in the
3si.org with pictures on the Blitz SBC-i-D.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=93deae04352055142a8e2734fe24562f&threadid=40895&highlight=Blitz+SBCID
I
mount my one between the A/C vent and the Water temp gauge.
Bought my one
from MVB motors
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/default.aspThey
have it now at $558.40
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Payne, Scott
[mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:03 PM
To:
'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
Hate
to bug ya, but got one more question. Where did you get your S.B.C.-i
Boost
controller??
- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:49
PM
To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Question
I have it. It's a very good unit. I still
learning all the features. I'm
going to buy the power meter to complete the
set.
The installation process is the same one as the Blitz DSBC.
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 04, 2001 1:35 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Blitz
Question
Anybody tried this one yet?
S.B.C.-i Boost
controller
Heres the write up on it -
Ordinary turbo charged
vehicles have preset boost pressures which are lower
then the boost pressure
the turbocharger is capable of. This means that you
cannot obtain any further
boost pressure then the level it is already set
for. The Blitz SBC-i controls
the maximum ratio of the boost pressure,
making it possible to utilize the
full capacity of the turbocharger. SBC-i
accomodates both wastegate types.
Features include:
* 4 boost settings, scramble boost, warning and
limiter, peak hold and
digital boost display
* SBC i-D can work in
conjunction with Power Meter i-D via infrared
connection
* able to
choose boost measurements (PSI, BAR, Kg/cm2, and KPA)
* sequential dual
solenoid design for better boost response and boost
display.
$589.00
is best price I found so far....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 13:04:15
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: mis-fire and smog problem
Hi All,
i have a stock 92 vr4
with a misfire above about 4000rpm. It also has a
smog/emmission
problem (California requirement). I have done the following
which has
improved the emissions slightly but nor resolved fully either
problem:
changed plugs and plug leads
changed coil
changed
PCV
changed air filter
the guy i had look at it swapped the injectors
and plugs from front to back
as he found the miss is in two of cylinders in
the rear bank (he said 2 and
3 i think). the miss remained in the rear
bank.
So, any suggestions? the guy suggested a problem lies with the
"brain" or
the wiring to the "brain". couldhe be
correct?
thanks
Ian
stock 92 vr4 red
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:47:37
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: mis-fire and smog problem
It could be the capacitor failure
that's been mentioned before on the list.
Go to the Search Page to pull up
past discussions on the subject.
www.Team3S.com/Search.htm Then
again, I'm not sure that would show up in
only two rear cylinders. You
might want to search "missing" or "misfire",
too.
As to
emissions... Of course, it *could* be an ECU problem, but for
starters
(and assuming the misfire affected the emissions only slightly) did
you make
sure the cats were good and hot *before* you had the emissions
test?
Cats get *much* more efficient when they're hot compared to when
they're
cold. It could mean the difference between a pass or fail in the
CARB
requirement. Always go for a run on the highway before an
emissions
test...
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
> Hi
All,
> i have a stock 92 vr4 with a misfire above about 4000rpm. It
also has a
smog/emmission problem (California requirement). I have done the
following
which has improved the emissions slightly but nor resolved fully
either
problem:
> changed plugs and plug leads
> changed
coil
> changed PCV
> changed air filter
> the guy i had look
at it swapped the injectors and plugs from front to
back as he found the miss
is in two of cylinders in the rear bank (he said 2
and 3 i think). the miss
remained in the rear bank.
> So, any suggestions? the guy suggested a
problem lies with the "brain" or
the wiring to the "brain". couldhe be
correct?
> thanks
> Ian
> stock 92 vr4 red
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#599
***************************************