Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 3
2001 Volume 01 : Number 566
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:51:47 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
What will keep water from soaking the air filter and possibly entering
the
intake? How is this handled on cars with stock scoops, such as the
WS-6 and
the 550?
Connecting the air box to the scoop would keep hot air in the
engine
compartment from entering the intake, potentially allowing more boost
before
detonation. But there may be other problems to consider. I
posted
something about ram air scoops a few years ago but I can't find it in
the
archives and lent the book I quoted to a friend. The point was that
unless
it's properly designed, a scoop can actually BLOCK air due to high
pressure
building up at the opening that actually limits ingestion.
If you don't connect the air box to the scoop, then the additional air
may
raise the under-hood pressure. Will this adversely
affect
radiator/intercooler flow?
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:51:48 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: tech support for A'PEXi? (was: AVC-R at altitude)
Does anyone have a technical support contact (preferably Email address)
for
A'PEXi? Their [new] web site lists only a phone number (PST is nine
time
zones earlier than CET), and it's not clear what it's for.
I'm still struggling with my AVC-R's altitude problem, described
below. Jim
Berry offered a logical suggestion, but a visual inspection
of the pressure
sensor revealed nothing suspect and there appears to be no
adjustability.
I spent this past weekend driving through the Austrian Alps with
friends
(two '94 Corvettes, a new Boxter and a '68 Alfa Romeo) and the AVC-R
limited
me to .5 bar at elevations over about 2000-2500 meters. I was
still able to
hang with the other cars, but I wasn't able to pull away from
them like I
could on the lower passes. Frustrating! :-)
TIA for any info you can provide.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 9:20 PM
To: Jim Matthews;
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R at altitude
The only thing I can think of is that the pressure transmitter is
sealed to
the point
that it can't compensate for altitude ---- the sealed
side always thinks
it's sea level.
I would think that they have a very
small pinhole to bleed off excess
pressure over
a period of several
minutes. It might even cause that hysteresis action that
your
seeing in
the boost.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
>
>
I have a '94 TT with basic engine mods (see signature below). The
1st
gen.
> SAVC-R reaches my boost setting quickly and holds it
rock-steady every
time,
> EXCEPT at high altitude! As I ascend,
the boost begins "sticking" at 7
psi
> (as if the boost controller was
turned off) before abruptly rocketing up
to
> my setting. The
delay increases the higher I go, and eventually boost
never
> budges
from 7 psi. The behavior reverses as I come back down the other
>
side... it will again achieve the max boost setting after a delay at
7
psi,
> and finally returns to normal near the bottom, sweeping
smoothly through
the
> boost range.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 06:14:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
With all this talk of stand-alone engine management I wonder
what
happens with all the sub-systems? Don't the ABS, ETACS, SRS, and
the
control units interact with the ECM? I'm not sure if they do or not.
I think Mikael Kenson is using a stand-alone system.
Mikael, are there
any problems with the sub-systems?
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 06:42:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front strut tower bar - special offer - no group buy necessary
Hi Ken,
Great suggestion. A circular design with no holes
would be
ideal. And a little more material shouldn't
change a $250 price
tag.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Ken Middaugh <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com> wrote:
> I
had a few emails with Chris and wanted to pass
> along some info on his
bar.
> He is a very nice guy. He said he can offer the bar
>
with no pre-drilled
> holes so you folks with the Ground Control kit
can
> drill your own and make
> the bar fit. Unfortunately, I
wasn't able to
> convince him to offer a bar
> with complete
circular mounting points. Perhaps
> you more articulate
folks
> can convince him that this would be worthwhile.
>
>
It is really great to have folks willing to
> contribute so greatly to
our
> lists.
>
> -Ken
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> To:
"'Team 3SI'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 3:18 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Front strut tower
bar - special
> offer - no group buy
> necessary
>
>
> >
> > 3/S owners,
> >
>
> We have an opportunity to
get a front
> strut tower bar for
> > our cars, 3000GT, SL or VR4
- 1st or 2nd
> generation. One of our car
> owners,
> >
Chris Thorne in PA, is going to make a limited
> number of these
>
immediately.
> >
> > Because enough of us sent in deposit
checks Chris
> was able
> > to get a good buy on raw material and
the price
> has been reduced.
> >
> > A group buy is not
necessary now. Prices are
> reduced by more than 25%.
> > First
come, first serve, until this first material
> buy runs out ! !
>
> Those who have signed up and sent their checks are
> first in
line.
> > Those who have signed up, but have not sent their
>
checks are next
> > assuming Chris receives your checks before
6Aug01.
> >
> > The rest of you will want to hurry and
take
> advantage of this one time
> > opportunity.
> >
Man, I sound like a used car salesman.
> >
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> > The configurations are listed below:
> >
> >
- Black Chrome finish (mirror finish powder coated
> paint) with a
>
> battery hold down(also black chrome finish)is now
> $260.00.
>
>
> > Paint colors other than the black chrome finish
> that
will be available at
> no
> > extra charge.
> > *
Azure Blue
> > * Dark Blue
> > * Crimson
Red
> > * Black
> > * Wet White
> >
* Buttercup
> > Colors that are not stock are available for an
>
extra $50.00.
> > If at least 5 people sign up for the same
special
> color then there is no
> > extra charge.
>
>
> > - The strut tower bar painted with the black
> chrome
finish or stock paint
> > without
> > the battery hold down is
$250.00.
> > - The strut tower bar only in raw aluminum,
>
without paint or a hold down
> is
> > still $250.00
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 07:12:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front strut tower bar - special offer - no group buy necessary
I don't think there is any way to pre-drill the bars --- when you install
the GC
camber plates you select your own positioning, there is no template,
so the
plate can be in relatively random locations with respect to the
factory mounting
holes.
I have pictures of my setup if anyone cares.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: Floyd,
Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>;
'Team 3SI' <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 01, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front strut tower bar
- special offer - no group buy necessary
> I had a few emails with Chris and wanted to pass along some info
on his bar.
> He is a very nice guy. He said he can offer the bar
with no pre-drilled
> holes so you folks with the Ground Control kit can
drill your own and make
> the bar fit. Unfortunately, I wasn't able
to convince him to offer a bar
> with complete circular mounting
points. Perhaps you more articulate folks
> can convince him that
this would be worthwhile.
>
> It is really great to have folks
willing to contribute so greatly to our
> lists.
>
>
-Ken
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Floyd, Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
>
To: "'Team 3SI'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 3:18 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Front strut tower
bar - special offer - no group buy
> necessary
>
>
>
>
> > 3/S owners,
> >
>
> We have an opportunity to
get a front strut tower bar for
> > our cars, 3000GT, SL or VR4 - 1st
or 2nd generation. One of our car
> owners,
> > Chris Thorne in
PA, is going to make a limited number of these
> immediately.
>
>
> > Because enough of us sent in deposit checks Chris was
able
> > to get a good buy on raw material and the price has been
reduced.
> >
> > A group buy is not necessary now. Prices are
reduced by more than 25%.
> > First come, first serve, until this first
material buy runs out ! !
> > Those who have signed up and sent their
checks are first in line.
> > Those who have signed up, but have not
sent their checks are next
> > assuming Chris receives your checks
before 6Aug01.
> >
> > The rest of you will want to hurry and
take advantage of this one time
> > opportunity.
> > Man, I
sound like a used car salesman.
> >
----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> > The configurations are listed below:
> >
> >
- Black Chrome finish (mirror finish powder coated paint) with a
> >
battery hold down(also black chrome finish)is now $260.00.
> >
>
> Paint colors other than the black chrome finish that will be available
at
> no
> > extra charge.
> > * Azure Blue
>
> * Dark Blue
> > * Crimson Red
> > *
Black
> > * Wet White
> > * Buttercup
> >
Colors that are not stock are available for an extra $50.00.
> > If at
least 5 people sign up for the same special color then there is no
> >
extra charge.
> >
> > - The strut tower bar painted with the
black chrome finish or stock paint
> > without
> > the battery
hold down is $250.00.
> > - The strut tower bar only in raw aluminum,
without paint or a hold down
> is
> > still $250.00
>
>
> >
-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> > This bar is CNC machined from 6061-T6 Aluminum and uses a
solid
> > brace
> > of .625 inches x 1.5 inches that connects
to the two mounts.
> > A picture of the prototype bar can be seen
at:
> >
> >
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GT/FrontStrutTowerBar/FrontStrutTowerBar.h>
> tml
> > THE
ADDRESS ABOVE MUST ALL BE ON ONE LINE.
> > If it isn't, then copy
it to your browser as one line.
> >
>
> The prototype you see in
the pictures will be strengthened
> > at the bend angles with "bridges"
to eliminate any possibility of flexing.
> > Chris can be contacted at
NETM1NDER@aol.com if you have
technical
> questions.
>
> I am doing the
administration of this buy because Chris
> > works 60 hours a week and
I want to help him get this off the ground so I
> > can have a strut
bar.
> >
> >
>
> A battery hold down is
required because the stock battery
> > and stock battery hold down can
not be used due to clearance.
>
> A battery like the Optima
or one with dimensions of H =
> > 6.75 x W =
6.813 x L = 9.75" or smaller can be used ( H, W & L
= +
> or
> > - .25") can be used.
>
> Another option is to
relocate your battery to the back so no
> > hold down is
required
> >
>
> If you choose to
participate in this buy please E-mail me, Jim
> Floyd
> >
at
> >
jim_floyd@maxtor.com.
>
> Give me your name, a phone
number, a shipping address and
> > which configuration/color you want.
Standard color is the black chrome
> > paint.
> >
>
> The buy will go down like
this.
> > We each will
send $150.00 deposit to Chris Thorne.
> > This will separate the Men
from the boys.
> >
> > He will then submit the first checks
and begin manufacturing
> > once they have cleared through their
banks.
> > Manufacturing will take 4 - 6 weeks.
>
> The deposit checks will go
to:
>
>
Chris Thorne
>
>
Apt. 212
>
>
1404 East Schuylkill Road
>
>
Pottstown, PA 19465
> >
> >
>
> If you need to contact me by phone I am at
303-702-4421 during the
> day.
> >
>
> Jim Floyd
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 15:57:28 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS VPC vs. ARC2
>I looking to get either one to effectively tune my 550cc
injectors. I'd
>appreciate any info from anyone owning either the VPC or
ARC2.
Check the archives as there have been loooong discussions and debattes
about those systems.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 13:39:54 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
Hello all -
I'm still trying to diagnose whether or not my tranny has a bad
synchro,
because sometimes it shifts smooth, other times not (grind). I
tried
something the other day that I and my mechanic think is telltale, but
I
was hoping someone else might try it too. Here it is:
With the clutch pedal UP (clutch engaged), try pushing the
shifter
towards any gears not suspect of any problems. In my car, I try
pushing
toward 1st and 2nd, and the engine bogs just a touch.
Now, with the pedal still UP, try pushing toward the suspect gear.
In
my car, when I push toward 3rd, there is little to no resistance and
I
immediately get a sharp grind from the gear.
The problem I have is going 4-3 in my car, 2-3 is not usually bad
unless
coming out of 2nd at redline. Thanks so much for any
help!!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
5-6 Speed Conversion
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 10:50:20 -0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tech support for A'PEXi? (was: AVC-R at altitude)
> Does anyone have a technical support contact (preferably
Email
address) for A'PEXi? Their [new] web site lists only a phone
number
(PST is nine time zones earlier than CET), and it's not clear
what
it's for.
- ---------------------->
I called A'PEXi and asked if they would put up an email address for
Tech
Support on the website, and they agreed... 'He' didn't give a
time
frame, but his name is Rodgers.
> I'm still struggling with my AVC-R's altitude problem,
described
below. Jim Berry offered a logical suggestion, but a
visual
inspection of the pressure sensor revealed nothing suspect and
there
appears to be no adjustability.
> I spent this past weekend
driving through the Austrian Alps with
friends (two '94 Corvettes, a new
Boxter and a '68 Alfa Romeo) and the
AVC-R limited me to .5 bar at elevations
over about 2000-2500 meters.
I was still able to hang with the other cars,
but I wasn't able to
pull away from them like I could on the lower
passes. Frustrating!
:-)
- ---------------------->
The answer I got from him is that if you have the OLD AVC-R, you're
SOL,
since it is NOT adjustable. You have to adjust for whatever
altitude
you're at!?! That sounds like fun when going up and down
mountain
roads. The new AVC-R has automatic altitude compensation,
but spending
an additional $630 (US) is pretty steep. Sorry I don't
have better news
for you...
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
I'm curious as to what a normal (like brand new) transmission would do
under
these circumstances (clutchless shifting) and how anyone would decide
their
transmission is "virginal" short of having just installed it in the
car!
ANd I'm not sure if I just installed a new transmission if I would
tempt
fate by clutchless shifting. All the VR4's I've driven have
squirrely
shifting in one regard or another, at one time or another.
I'm not slamming
the idea, I'm just curious - I didn't realize how easily a
clutch could
operate on one of these cars until I just replaced mine.
To me, "normal"
operation was having a Nautilus machine for exercising my
left leg!
In my simple mind, I have always checked standard transmision operation
with
the engine running and the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.
I was
thinking that bad synchros would interfere at least slightly with
shifting
from gear to gear with the clutch pedal DOWN. Am I being
stupid once again?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stanton
[SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 12:40
PM
> To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Team3S: Anyone with a
BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
>
> Hello all -
>
>
I'm still trying to diagnose whether or not my tranny has a bad synchro,
>
because sometimes it shifts smooth, other times not (grind). I
tried
> something the other day that I and my mechanic think is telltale,
but I
> was hoping someone else might try it too. Here it
is:
>
> With the clutch pedal UP (clutch engaged), try pushing the
shifter
> towards any gears not suspect of any problems. In my car,
I try pushing
> toward 1st and 2nd, and the engine bogs just a
touch.
>
> Now, with the pedal still UP, try pushing toward the
suspect gear. In
> my car, when I push toward 3rd, there is little
to no resistance and I
> immediately get a sharp grind from the
gear.
>
> The problem I have is going 4-3 in my car, 2-3 is not
usually bad unless
> coming out of 2nd at redline. Thanks so much
for any help!!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White R/T
TT
> 5-6 Speed Conversion
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 13:57:01 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ball
joint replacement possibility
Does anyone know if the 1G DSM ball joints are the same as ours?
If they
are, I have finally found us replacements. I do know that the
shaft
diameter is the same, but I don't know about the base sizes. If
anyone has
a concrete answer on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:10:41 -0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted: CD changer
Wanted:
Does anyone have a CDX-M30 CD changer they want to part with for
200.00
shipped to WA?
I am sick and tired of not getting high bid on
E-bay and having to wait 4
days to get bumped off by some sniper. If you got
one and want to upgrade
to something better here 200.00 to get you
started.
It must work perfectly with no big dents or scratches and have a
cartridge.
Any info would help.
(It is my intention to get a changer to
use with my current system not
replace)
Bob K.
93 R/T n/t
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 11:59:46 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tech support for A'PEXi? (was: AVC-R at altitude)
Bob
Did they happen to define what defines a new vs. old AVC-R ---
serial
number or model type for example.
Jim Berry
> > Does anyone have a technical support contact (preferably
Email
> address) for A'PEXi? Their [new] web site lists only a phone
number
> (PST is nine time zones earlier than CET), and it's not clear
what
> it's for.
> ---------------------->
>
> I
called A'PEXi and asked if they would put up an email address for
> Tech
Support on the website, and they agreed... 'He' didn't give a
> time
frame, but his name is Rodgers.
>
> The answer I got from him is
that if you have the OLD AVC-R, you're
> SOL, since it is NOT
adjustable. You have to adjust for whatever
> altitude you're
at!?! >
> Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 12:28:48 -0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tech support for A'PEXi? (was: AVC-R at altitude)
Hey, Jim,
No, sorry, it wasn't made clear... I was just calling to save
JimM
the international hassles - I don't have one, so I didn't exactly
know
what to ask about. I assumed you guys knew when models were
changed -
sorry I didn't go further. They're in your neighborhood -
give a
call: 714-685-5700 ext6.
Best,
Forrest
> Bob
> Did they happen to define what defines a new vs. old
AVC-R ---
serial number or model type for
example.
> Jim
Berry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Forrest
<
bforrest@pacbell.net>
-
----------snip----------
> > The answer I got from him is that if you
have the OLD AVC-R,
you're SOL, since it is NOT adjustable. You have to
adjust for
whatever altitude you're at!?! >
> >
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:16:01 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
Aggressive high rpm shifting [ drive it like ya stole it ] will show up a
bad syncro. The closer to red line the better.You need to speed shift
to
show the problem, it doesn't have to be at WOT but the shift itself
should
be very rapid. It should also occur in both directions although
you're less
likely to down shift as aggressively as upshifting.
The method the mechanic mentioned should be a good indication
also.
Allowing a little pause in netural between second and third while
driving
should also help eliminate any grinding unless the synchro is totally
gone.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>
>
With the clutch pedal UP (clutch engaged), try pushing the shifter
>
towards any gears not suspect of any problems. In my car, I try
pushing
> toward 1st and 2nd, and the engine bogs just a touch.
>
> Now, with the pedal still UP, try pushing toward the suspect
gear. In
> my car, when I push toward 3rd, there is little to no
resistance and I
> immediately get a sharp grind from the gear.
>
> The problem I have is going 4-3 in my car, 2-3 is not usually bad
unless
> coming out of 2nd at redline. Thanks so much for any
help!!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:46:36 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
At 12:16 PM 8/2/01 -0700, Jim Berry wrote:
>Aggressive high rpm
shifting [ drive it like ya stole it ] will show up a
>bad syncro. The
closer to red line the better.You need to speed shift
>to show the
problem, it doesn't have to be at WOT but the shift itself
>should be
very rapid. It should also occur in both directions although
>you're less
likely to down shift as aggressively as upshifting.
>
When my 2nd
gear synchro went bad, I demonstrated it to the zone rep from
the warranty
company like this:
Get up to about 10 mph in 1st, then shift rapidly into 2nd. Speed up to
20
mph, shift up to 3rd., then shift rapidly back into 2nd. We did the
whole
thing in the parking lot of the Mitsu dealer.
Both the 1-2 and 3-2
shifts ground with a quick shift (not a full power
speed shift, mind, just
quicker than normal) and foot to the floor on the
clutch (fully disengaged).
In fact, with the car rolling along at 15 mph
and the clutch all the way
down, I could grind away merrily with 1-2 and
3-2 shifts.
I also demonstrated that no other shifts made in the same manner
resulted
in a clunk or grind. No problem -- it was covered under
warranty.
If you demo your bad syncro to the zone rep driving like you
described,
then he may say "We don't cover racing damage."
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 22:23:59 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tech support for A'PEXi? (was: AVC-R at altitude)
Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
wrote:
>
> I called A'PEXi and asked if they would put up an email
address for
> Tech Support on the website, and they agreed... 'He'
didn't give a
> time frame, but his name is Rodgers.
I managed to get an Email to them, which is reproduced below.
> The answer I got from him is that if you have the OLD AVC-R,
you're
> SOL, since it is NOT adjustable. You have to adjust for
whatever
> altitude you're at!?! That sounds like fun when going up
and down
> mountain roads. The new AVC-R has automatic altitude
compensation,
> but spending an additional $630 (US) is pretty
steep. Sorry I don't
> have better news for you...
I wonder how I'm supposed to make these adjustments! See below.
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com> wrote:
>
>
Did they happen to define what defines a new vs. old AVC-R ---
> serial
number or model type for example.
Not in my conversation, nor did they recommend the new unit as a
possible
alternative (can't justify that anyway).
Here's the Email I sent them:
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews
[mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 7:54 PM
To:
(A'PEXi Tech Support)
Subject: boost control at high altitude
Thank you very much for your time on the phone today; I realize
this sort
of problem can be difficult to diagnose long distance. I
appreciate you
letting me contact you via Email, which is a big help
considering the cost
of trans-Atlantic phone calls; your addresses will
remain completely
confidential. If you can think of anything I should
try, I'd sure welcome
your suggestions.
To recap the problem and our discussion:
I have a '94 Stealth with only basic engine upgrades (see signature
below).
The SAVC-R (first version) reaches my boost setting quickly and holds
it
rock-steady every time, EXCEPT at high altitude! As I ascend to
roughly
2000-2500 meters in elevation, the boost begins "sticking" at .5 bar
(as if
the controller were turned off), before abruptly rocketing up to my
setting.
The delay increases the higher I go, and eventually boost never
exceeds .5
bar. The behavior reverses as I come back down; it will
again achieve the
max boost setting after a delay at .5 bar, and finally
returns to normal as
I descend to under 2000-2500 meters, once again sweeping
smoothly through
the boost range.
Switching between settings A and B, changing the boost limit, adjusting
the
BADC, turning the unit off and back on, and letting the car sit for
2-3
hours makes no difference - in all cases, boost behaves exactly as it
would
with the controller off. Note that both the AVC-R boost gauge and
the stock
boost "estimate" gauge register about the same pressure (roughly .5
bar and
7 psi, respectively). I've checked all of the connections and
there is
nothing suspect.
I've posted to the Team3S technical forum (
http://www.team3s.com), and while
a few
folks reported similar problems, no one could offer a
concrete
solution. A Supra owner switched to the AVC-D and hasn't
suffered the
problem since. Folks that drive Stealths and 3000GTs with
identical engine
modifications report no such problem (DSBC and both versions
of the AVC-R).
Few have an opportunity to drive at such elevations regularly,
which limits
the test cases, unfortunately.
Suggestions I've received:
1. "The pressure transmitter may be sealed to the point that it
can't
compensate for altitude; the sealed side may think it's always at sea
level.
I would think that they have a very small pinhole to bleed off
excess
pressure over a period of several minutes. It might even cause
that
hysteresis action that your seeing in the boost."
This seemed logical but I could find no such vent.
2. "Disconnect the boost controller at altitude. Allow maximum boost
and
drive with the boost gauge only to see if the problem is really
the
controller or some other oddball problem."
Did not think to try this, but I will next time I head up into the
Alps. I
would be very surprised if boost remains limited to .5
bar!
3. (from you) Make sure the pressure sensor orientation is correct
(nipple
up).
I just looked and the pressure sensor (marked DENSO
DPS-310-2000A
949940-6270 5 V) is mounted on the firewall with the hose
nipple pointed
DOWN. So I guess that's wrong? Could this be the
problem? Why would this
matter?
4. (from you) Could be that the engine is overworked at high altitude
and
the AVC-R can't overcome the excess load.
Seems unlikely since other cars with the same mods experience no problems
at
altitude. Also note that I've had my car on an AWD dyno back-to-back
with a
much more highly modified 3000GT (gutted and free-flow cats, Borla
exhaust,
etc. - see my web page) and at 1.0 bar boost there appear to be no
major
restrictions with the stock setup.
5. (from you) Find someone with an AVC-R and try swapping in their
pressure
sensor.
Unfortunately, these cars are extremely uncommon over here.
6. Stop driving in the Alps.
No, I don't think so! ;-)
So, that's where things stand. Again, if you can think of
anything else I
could try, please let me know! Thanks again for your
time and help, and
I'll let you know if I make progress on my end.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 17:54:12 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
Supposedly, the prototype is already out and it will be for sale this
month.
>Sounds like a good plan so long as its not on the same time
schedule as
>the "viper" - carbon fiber hood... That's exactly what
a lot of people
>here are wanting/needing... Lets just see if it
makes it to
>production...
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
>Of Sam Shelat
>Sent:
Wednesday, August 01, 2001 12:22 PM
>To:
stealth@starnet.net;
stealth@stls.verio.net;
>Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
>
>
>I have heard
GT-Pro in Cali is making a Link prog engine management plug
>in
>ECU
replacement that does datalogging, air/fuel, ignition,
nitrous,
>boost
>control and more. It supposedly allows
operation with or without MAF
>(speed
>density) and has a baseline
program in it so its plug and play. Price
>is
>about $2300,
and its available within the month. Supposedly, there is a
>version
for every gen ECU, and its laptop programmable.
>I got most of this info
from Brian of GTpro on the 3si.org site. Oh,
>and he
>said you
can run a coil for each cylinder and its sequential
fire.
>Sounds
>promising. Maybe one of the members with a
little more tuning knowledge
>(hmm Roger) might want to inquire upon the
merits or limitations of the
>system. Sounds reasonable priced for
something that eliminates the need
>for
>at least three black boxes
and a VPC/Arc2 and datalogger and even an MSD
>if
>you just bought
it for increased spark voltage. Even a Gforce
upgrade
>is
>almost $1000 and needed if you want to bypass the stock
rev limiter.
>
>Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 19:10:04 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
Oh poop, I wasn't specific enough..
I mean, when the car is parked, not moving...
THANK YOU ALL for the replies!!
Ken
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
> I'm curious as to what a normal (like brand new) transmission would do
under
> these circumstances (clutchless shifting) and how anyone would
decide their
> transmission is "virginal" short of having just installed
it in the car!
> ANd I'm not sure if I just installed a new transmission
if I would tempt
> fate by clutchless shifting. All the VR4's I've driven
have squirrely
> shifting in one regard or another, at one time or
another. I'm not slamming
> the idea, I'm just curious - I didn't
realize how easily a clutch could
> operate on one of these cars until I
just replaced mine. To me, "normal"
> operation was having a
Nautilus machine for exercising my left leg!
>
> In my simple mind,
I have always checked standard transmision operation with
> the engine
running and the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. I was
>
thinking that bad synchros would interfere at least slightly with
shifting
> from gear to gear with the clutch pedal DOWN. Am I being
stupid once again?
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 19:30:14 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Wanted: CD changer
Isn't the changer the same as a Kenwood unit?
I had one in my 'Vette that I traded in on my GT and the magazine
was
exactly the same. The units looked exactly the same except for the
color.
I don't know what model I had as it was in the car when I purchased
it.
I hope this is a help.
> Wanted:
> Does anyone have a CDX-M30 CD changer they want to
part with for 200.00
> shipped to WA?
> I am sick and tired of not
getting high bid on E-bay and having to wait 4
> days to get bumped off by
some sniper. If you got one and want to upgrade
> to something better here
200.00 to get you started.
> It must work perfectly with no big dents or
scratches and have a
cartridge.
> Any info would help.
> (It is
my intention to get a changer to use with my current system not
>
replace)
>
> Bob K.
> 93 R/T n/t
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 20:53:20 -0500
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
I would like to inject an idea here also. Why not have a double ended
scoop?
The front would grab air into the FIPK or airbox and the rear could
allow
underhood
air drawn out?
I think it would look sweet and be incredibly functional.
Shane
>I have an old web page that expresses similar ideas
>(
http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/intake.html).
Here are a few things to
>consider:
>
>What will keep water
from soaking the air filter and possibly entering the
>intake? How
is this handled on cars with stock scoops, such as the WS-6 and
>the
550?
>
>Connecting the air box to the scoop would keep hot air in
the engine
>compartment from entering the intake, potentially allowing
more boost before
>detonation. But there may be other problems to
consider. I posted
>something about ram air scoops a few years ago
but I can't find it in the
>archives and lent the book I quoted to a
friend. The point was that unless
>it's properly designed, a scoop
can actually BLOCK air due to high pressure
>building up at the opening
that actually limits ingestion.
>
>If you don't connect the air box
to the scoop, then the additional air may
>raise the under-hood
pressure. Will this adversely affect
>radiator/intercooler
flow?
>
>- --
>Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 23:16:25 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: changing 6th
Hi,
I'm getting my transmission replaced under the extended
warranty from
mitsu, and I was wondering if there is any way to change the
gear ratio to
allow for a higher top speed. My thinking is that since they're
gonna be in
there, it might be cheaper to do that now than later on. I have
no idea what
that would entail, and would appreciate any input on this.
Alex Pedenko
Green '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 21:17:52 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
changing 6th
not a chance ---- they won't/can't open the trany, they just put in
another
new/rebuilt transmission. There are no aftermarket gear sets for the
Mitsu
trans and if there were the dealer wouldn't touch it.
A taller gear wouldn't do you much good anyway unless you boost the HP
a
bunch. I'm not sure about the 6 speed but the 5 speed reaches it's
maximum
speed in 4th gear, 5th just doesn't have enough HP to reach redline.
If you
had the power you could reach over 200 mph in 5th [ 5 speed ], if you
had the
tires, if you had the suspension, if you had the roll bars etc.
etc. The top
end is about 160 as is so I'm not sure where you would
use more speed.
I race my car at open track events and 140 or so is the max speed I
can
reasonably reach, on a highway I could do more but you sure as
hell
wouldn't want to do it on a regular basis ---- if you do want to do it
on a
regular basis let me know where you live and I'll stay out of the
area.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting my
transmission replaced under the extended warranty from
> mitsu, and I was
wondering if there is any way to change the gear ratio to
> allow for a
higher top speed. My thinking is that since they're gonna be in
> there,
it might be cheaper to do that now than later on. I have no idea what
>
that would entail, and would appreciate any input on this.
>
> Alex Pedenko
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 22:03:51 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try this...
The resistance when approaching a healthy gear in this manner is the
synchro
doing its thing -- trying to bring the mating gears to the same
speed. Note
that repeating this type of thing for a long while can
prematurely wear a
synchro. A worn synchro isn't as effective at
meshing the gears, hence the
little or no resitance and the gear clash (the
grind) when you do this with
the suspect gear.
You will experience the same thing if you shift without using the
clutch
whilst moving, and experienc ethe resistance more or less depending
upon how
closely matched the gears are in the transmission when you
shift.
Shifting techniques that match ground speed and engine speed to the
target
gear speed ("double clutching" on a non-constant mesh transmission) is
very
easy on synchros because they end up having to do very little
work.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Ken Stanton
> Sent:
Thursday, August 02, 2001 4:10 PM
> Cc: Team3S Stealth
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please try
this...
>
>
> Oh poop, I wasn't specific
enough..
>
> I mean, when the car is parked, not
moving...
>
> THANK YOU ALL for the replies!!
> Ken
<snipped>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Ken
Stanton [SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 02,
2001 12:40 PM
> > > To: Team3S Stealth
> > >
Subject: Team3S: Anyone with a BAD SYNCHRO, please
try this...
> > >
> > > Hello all -
> >
>
> > > I'm still trying to diagnose whether or not my tranny has
a
> bad synchro,
> > > because sometimes it shifts smooth,
other times not (grind). I tried
> > > something the other day
that I and my mechanic think is
> telltale, but I
> > > was
hoping someone else might try it too. Here it is:
> >
>
> > > With the clutch pedal UP (clutch engaged), try pushing
the shifter
> > > towards any gears not suspect of any
problems. In my car, I
> try pushing
> > > toward 1st
and 2nd, and the engine bogs just a touch.
> > >
> > >
Now, with the pedal still UP, try pushing toward the suspect gear.
In
> > > my car, when I push toward 3rd, there is little to no
resistance and I
> > > immediately get a sharp grind from the
gear.
> > >
> > > The problem I have is going 4-3 in my
car, 2-3 is not usually
> bad unless
> > > coming out of 2nd
at redline. Thanks so much for any help!!
> > >
> >
> Ken Stanton
> > > '91 Pearl White R/T TT
> > > 5-6
Speed Conversion
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:45:04 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: changing 6th
I've tried top speed runs on the Autobahn four or five times, and it
was
between 168 and 171 mph (indicated) every attempt. Top speed in my
'94 is
reached at the point where RPMs in 5th are beyond my torque plateau
and
where 6th offers insufficient mechanical advantage. Had I the
horsepower to
keep pulling in 6th, top speed would be well over 200
mph. I assume that by
changing the ratio of 6th you would want to
shorten it to be more like 5th,
which could conceivably give you a tad more
speed by putting the RPMs in the
sweet spot. But watch those EGTs when
laying into the boost for extensive
periods!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#566
***************************************