Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, August 1
2001 Volume 01 : Number
564
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 28 Jul 2001 14:28:06 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
What parts do I need to swap to enable
datalogging on my '95 R/T TT? Is it
cost prohibitive?
I know I can
swap several body panels and make a 1st gen into a 2nd gen,
but since I have
a 2nd gen car already and I like it very much I would
rather swap some parts
than whole cars. Thanks.
Philip
'95 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 09:08:33
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rewire Fuel Pump
The battery in my car has been moved to the
rear. The battery is
literally within a foot of the fuel pump
now. I have heard talk about
running heavier gauge wire to the fuel
pump to provide better voltage
for increased flow/reliability.
Question: The fuel pump appears to
have 4 wires coming from it.
What are the different wires, and what
would be the best way to wire
this. I was thinking some sort of fuel
cutoff switch externally mounted
(as required by certain organizations
for rear mounted batteries), as well as
a Cutoff switch inside the car
(for anti-theft purposes). I am thinking
some sort of high-amperage
relay in the rear above the fuel pump, but I want
it controlled by the
car as to when its on/off mainly, just having the
external and internal
cutoffs also.
What would be the best
way???
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 16:59:14
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
street racing....sorry I brought it up
Street racing, Crashes DO
happen.
http://www.speedoptions.com/news_headline.asp?aID=1680&ref=default&v=4&pg=0***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:49:49
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: re:
hood seal/airflow issue
Why not just add a cowl to the hood & split
the duct to send a portion of the
air into the intake? At least that way
there is no need to worry about the
hood flipping
up.
=Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 16:51:34
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
Has anyone looked into
fabricating bolt on vents to replace the 'bumps' on
the hood?
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[mailto:ThorHolth@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 16:50
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
Why not just add a cowl to the
hood & split the duct to send a portion of
the
air into the intake?
At least that way there is no need to worry about the
hood flipping
up.
=Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:11:38
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
If you guys come up with
something everyone can agree with I will make the
molds......I know flash
was working on something but if he got it off the
ground or not I don't
know. I could make them out of an aluminum hogout but
that would cost a
fortune for any buyers.....so lets look at molding them.
On Tuesday, July
31, 2001 2:52 PM, Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
wrote:
> Has anyone looked into fabricating bolt on vents to replace the
'bumps'
on
> the hood?
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[mailto:ThorHolth@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 16:50
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
>
>
> Why not
just add a cowl to the hood & split the duct to send a portion of
>
the
> air into the intake? At least that way there is no need to worry
about
the
> hood flipping up.
>
> =Thor
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:14:42
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
or at least I could CMM scan
those little piggies If somebody wants to take that one over.....god knows I got
enough going right now.
On Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:12 PM, Robert Koch
[SMTP:eK2mfg@foxinternet.com] wrote:
> If you guys come up with
something everyone can agree with I will make the
> molds......I know
flash was working on something but if he got it off the
> ground or not I
don't know. I could make them out of an aluminum hogout but
> that would
cost a fortune for any buyers.....so lets look at molding them.
>
>
On Tuesday, July 31, 2001 2:52 PM, Sean Winker
>
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com] wrote:
> > Has anyone looked into
fabricating bolt on vents to replace the 'bumps'
> on
> > the
hood?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
ThorHolth@aol.com
[mailto:ThorHolth@aol.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001
16:50
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
> >
> >
>
> Why not just add a cowl to the hood & split the duct to send a portion
of
> > the
> > air into the intake? At least that way there is
no need to worry about
> the
> > hood flipping up.
>
>
> > =Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 18:32:24
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
re: hood seal/airflow issue
How about a molded panel that dropped in on
the right side of the hood and
replaced the shock-tower bulge, with forward
facing louvers? I remember that
the old saab 900 series had such a design,
but it was for cabin
ventilation.....
- -thor
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:35:05
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
> Has anyone looked into
fabricating bolt on vents to
> replace the 'bumps' on the
hood?
Bozz Speed in Japan makes some for the '91-93.5 cars.
http://www.bozz.co.jp/parts-english/aero/gto-bonnetscoop.html$305
plus whatever it takes to get them to the States. Ow.
A while back
there was talk of someone making a hood with a rear cowl
induction setup to
help get cool air into the engine compartment, but that
seems to have
evaporated (or at least I never personally heard of progress
being
made).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:41:45
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
Oh my god people...if any one is
willing to pay 305.00 for these I'll make
it my top priority.
I was
thinking somewhere along the 125.00 range. Lets get serious about
this, with
all of the under hood temp conversations I think this would be
something of
worthyness. who molds plastic out there? would aluminum suck
if it was only
50% heavier?
On Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:35 PM, Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com] wrote:
> > Has anyone looked into
fabricating bolt on vents to
> > replace the 'bumps' on the
hood?
>
> Bozz Speed in Japan makes some for the '91-93.5
cars.
>
>
http://www.bozz.co.jp/parts-english/aero/gto-bonnetscoop.html>
>
$305 plus whatever it takes to get them to the States. Ow.
>
>
A while back there was talk of someone making a hood with a rear cowl
>
induction setup to help get cool air into the engine compartment, but
that
> seems to have evaporated (or at least I never personally heard
of
progress
> being made).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:16:28
-0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3s Admin - Illegal Street Racing
All:
Please save this
topic for debate, argument or discussion
for PRIVATE e-mails. This is a
TECHNICAL FORUM, not the
proper venue for one-liners intended to goad, be
cute or
have the last word. Out of the 13 messages on this topic,
NOT ONE had any technical content. Enough is enough.
Everybody has an opinion on this, but this isn't the forum
for
it.
Go back and read the rules you agreed to at the URL at the
bottom
of this message if you forgot them.
Rich
For the
Admins
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 23:05:39
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Passenger side window motor going out
Has anyone replaced their
passenger side window motor? Mine is barely able
to bring the window back
up.
Didnt I read that someone rebuilt theirs? Or used a different
brand?
Thanks
Greg Gonzales
92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:32:11
EDT
From:
DKoenigs@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Venom Product
Anybody out there have experience with the Venom
product line. Specifically I'm interested in information about the
VCN-2000 nitrous system and the Venom 400 control module. Any real life
experience and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Bottom line....is
either worth the money?
Thanks
Don
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:38:19
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Good
street/occasional track use brake pad?
I'm shopping for brake pads for my
Stealth and I'd like some opinion on the
Porterfield R4S and anything else
comparable. My ES has turbo calipers on
it but only weighs about 3200
lbs empty. So I really don't need the massive
clamping force that the
AWD cars need (but it would be nice to have :) )
I'm also looking for
something that will go well with my Porterfield cryo
rotors (not slotted or
drilled) I know most of you are road course racers
so I'm hoping for
some good answers :)
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:08:31
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
The web page says "working air
outlets". Any ideas about which would work
better for engine cooling to
replace the bumps -- outlet or ram air inlet?
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow
issue
> > Has anyone looked into fabricating bolt on vents
to
> > replace the 'bumps' on the hood?
>
> Bozz Speed in
Japan makes some for the '91-93.5 cars.
>
>
http://www.bozz.co.jp/parts-english/aero/gto-bonnetscoop.html>
>
$305 plus whatever it takes to get them to the States. Ow.
>
>
A while back there was talk of someone making a hood with a rear cowl
>
induction setup to help get cool air into the engine compartment, but
that
> seems to have evaporated (or at least I never personally heard of
progress
> being made).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:09:17
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New "Honking / Whistle" noise. HELP!!
Hello all, I just started
to notice a new noise in my car. It is very
hard to describe, it's kind of
like a medium to high pitch honk or
whistle. It only occurs at about 2800 to
3100 RPM under light to semi
light acceleration and only for about half a
second.
My first thought was a leaky BOV because it only briefly happens
when
the boost is built up pretty high, BUT I'm not on the throttle
very
much. I guess another way of saying it would be that the turbo's
are
spooled and creating boost, but the throttle plate is not open very
far
(in relation to the amount of gas pedal I have left). So is this the
BOV
leaking?? Or what would cause this. Thank you all for your help, and
it
is a completely stock 94 RT TT with 99k miles.
Matt Nelson
1994
RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 21:30:45
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Porterfield Prices
I'm back in the market for a set of cryo
treated 2nd gen Porterfield rotors.
Anyone know were I can currently get the
best price?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 20:32:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield Prices
Bout $340 W/O shipping here for that
pair.
I have almost no discount on rotors..so likewise I dont make scrap
off em
either *heh*.
Im not a business, but I do have
wholesale/distributor pricing, and
anything I make goes to support the Team3S
projects.
On Tue, 31 Jul 2001, bdtrent wrote:
> I'm back in the
market for a set of cryo treated 2nd gen Porterfield rotors.
> Anyone know
were I can currently get the best price?
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: 31 Jul 2001 20:27:29
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 4-bolt timing sprocket
To verify my theory on the timing mark
change when doing a 2-bolt to 4-bolt main conversion I bought the 4-bolt main
sprocket.
The timing mark was 1 tooth off like I expected but the
sprocket looks like it is missing the back flange
Can anyone who has done
the timing on a 4-bolt main TT block recently verify if the timing belt sprocket
has a back flange?
I posted pictures on the 3SI bulletin board,
unfortunatly the digital camera was stolen from work so I could not take a
picture, I had to use a photo editor to try to show the part
difference.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=3d6714c1c1cbbe5b714b38c153c2b921&threadid=37367John
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.comFind
the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 23:43:31
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
Greets all,
I have a quick (probly dumb) question,
while discussing my woes about
getting cool air to my K&N on my TT with a
body man i know, he mentioned the
posibility of fabricating a Small scoop a
few inches in front of where the
K&N sits. In theory this sounds like a
good idea, and I know he is good and
the scoop will look good. We were
discussing app 8 in. across rising perhaps
1.5 in off the hood surface, with
a slight taper and large inlet cut in the
hood. my question is, is there any
reason NOT to do this? I assume this has
been done before, and if so does
anyone know if the results were an
improvement or not? Just trying to be
creative a bit. Thanks in advance for
replys.
Ron
Zilnsky
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:28:14
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
Weight is not an issue for 99% of the
people on the list with these cars.
Yes the discussion evaporated months
ago because I think the person took
their shock tower covers off and no extra
airflow went in or came out of the
hood. Maybe this person was not
removing the seal at the firewall though.
I won't work on this because I
have a second gen car and right now my
problems lie in trying to get my
brakes, rotors, and pads to last longer at
track events than they do right
now.
I have found lots of uses for the 1", 2", and 3" flexible ductwork
though so
encourage people to try all sorts of things with those to pipe air
into the
engine area. Good luck.
I agree that $350 is a chunk
but supply and demand on these cars is not very
much. What did those
carbon fiber hood people come up with as far as vents
in the hood like rally
hoods with those big louvers/vents cut into them (not
great for a car wash
but superb at exhausting heat).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Koch
Sent: Tuesday,
July 31, 2001 6:42 PM
To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: re: hood seal/airflow issue
Oh my god people...if any one is
willing to pay 305.00 for these I'll make
it my top priority.
I was
thinking somewhere along the 125.00 range. Lets get serious about
this, with
all of the under hood temp conversations I think this would be
something of
worthyness. who molds plastic out there? would aluminum suck
if it was only
50% heavier?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:33:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Good street/occasional track use brake pad?
I like ordering parts
from Jeff Mohler because he knows what our cars need
and can give us a small
discount.
It sounds like this would be the best setup for you:
- -
Porterfield R4-S pads all around.
- - Porterfield rotors up front (all around
if you have the money).
- - Stock rotors in back (if you want the basic
setup).
The R4-S pads are great on the street and bite well for the
occasional track
use. Just be aware that they might work best when cold
or hot so 10 laps
later you might not be able to brake at the same point as
before, etc.
I am in discussion on another list about the cryo-treatment
on Porterfield
rotors. I currently have warped mine (previously thought
impossible on
cryo-treated rotors) and heat cracked them clean through.
Heat cracks are
not really cracks but more of a fine fissure on the surface
and when you
turn this down to expose a new surface - voila - you have more
fissures on
the surface again. So don't waste your $40 per rotor if you
are only going
to occasionally visit the track.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 wishing to have the car at 3,200 #
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Tuesday,
July 31, 2001 7:38 PM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Good
street/occasional track use brake pad?
I'm shopping for brake pads
for my Stealth and I'd like some opinion on the
Porterfield R4S and anything
else comparable. My ES has turbo calipers on
it but only weighs about
3200 lbs empty. So I really don't need the massive
clamping force that
the AWD cars need (but it would be nice to have :) )
I'm also looking for
something that will go well with my Porterfield cryo
rotors (not slotted or
drilled) I know most of you are road course racers
so I'm hoping for
some good answers :)
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:36:26
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New "Honking / Whistle" noise. HELP!!
Matt,
Not sure if you redid any hoses going to the BOV (or turbo bypass
valve
technically) but here is a post from before. Search the archives
and see if
those help. For your relief this is a normal sound that we
all go through
after changing some hoses to the BOV or turbo or wastegate or
Y-pipe, etc.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with honking goose mod
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001
1:54 AM
The Archive Page is where you'll find links to all 900+ pages of
past list
discussions. They are listed by date, in calendar
format. But if you want
to narrow it down a bit, try our Search
Page. Enter "honk" or "honking
goose" and you'll probably get back a
list of 30 or so pages. If you want
to be really fancy, you can
enter +honk +K&N and it will list only pages
where "honk" and
"K&N" are both mentioned. Since the K&N only lets you hear
the
honk better - but it's a BOV problem - I suggest you enter +honk
-K&N,
to return only pages about honking where K&N is *not*
mentioned; or +honk
+bov might be even
better...
Start at
www.Team3S.com. Happy Searching!
;-)
Forrest
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 21:52:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Good street/occasional track use brake pad?
> I am in
discussion on another list about the cryo-treatment on Porterfield
>
rotors. I currently have warped mine (previously thought impossible
on
> cryo-treated rotors) and heat cracked them clean through. Heat
cracks are
> not really cracks but more of a fine fissure on the surface
and when you
> turn this down to expose a new surface - voila - you have
more fissures on
> the surface again. So don't waste your $40 per
rotor if you are only going
> to occasionally visit the track.
Its
NOT impossible to warp them, just much harder. An uneven
installation
(not flat/even at the hub or hub-ring) or improper cool-down
procedures in
extreme conditions...could cause warping. Rotors are not
spring steel..it
can always happen.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:44:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Warped rotors (was: Good street/occasional track use brake
pad?)
Well I am living proof that they can warp. I am not asking
for money back
since I will no longer let them cool down improperly and have
learned my
lesson but if they are not perfectly flat at the hub then that is
a much
larger issue since every rotor I put on there will warp.
This
was discussed by another member on another list but I don't know how
many of
us would know how to look for that or have the time to have a
qualified
person check this out.
I think the key to look for is the flatness of the
hub and the flatness of
the mating part of the rotor. If any of these
are out of round then the
rotor will not be true.
What is the easiest
way to check this? White-out on the hub, torque down
the rotor, remove
the rotor, see what areas are not smeared with white-out?
Or take it to a
brake shop and ask them to check the flatness of this with a
straight edge or
something?
I don't like throwing away money if it is a problem I can fix
before the
next set of rotors go on. However, I put on the
freshly-turned rotors and
in the first stop I felt the wub-wub-wub of a
warped rotor. They did not
have time to heat and cool improperly.
I'm trying to find out how to fix
it.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 12:53
AM
Its NOT impossible to warp them, just much harder. An uneven
installation
(not flat/even at the hub or hub-ring) or improper cool-down
procedures in
extreme conditions...could cause warping. Rotors are not
spring steel..it
can always happen.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 22:02:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped rotors (was: Good street/occasional track use brake
pad?)
> This was discussed by another member on another list but I
don't know how
> many of us would know how to look for that or have the
time to have a
> qualified person check this out.
- ---
Paint the
back of the rotor (inside the hat) with shoe polish, and bolt it
down to the
hub slowly/evenly/tightly.
Look for areas that are NOT white..those are
low points with possible high
points around/near them. The high points
cause cracking and perhaps
warping.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 01:00:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Warped rotors
Or in looking on the technical CD I guess anyone
with a dial caliper (sure
we all have those) can mount the thing to measure
the flatness of the hub or
the rotor hat. I know I have anti-seize on
mine so perhaps too much in one
section was making an uneven mounting surface
also. I'll try some of these
tricks and see what works.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 1:03
AM
Paint the back of the rotor (inside the hat) with shoe polish, and
bolt it
down to the hub slowly/evenly/tightly.
Look for areas that are
NOT white..those are low points with possible high
points around/near
them. The high points cause cracking and
perhaps
warping.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 01:23:10
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Street racing
Robert,
Don't get discouraged about a few bad
posts. It does not mean that everyone
is a jerk, just because a few
wrote bad messages. If the threats do not
stop, the admins can do
something about it. I already saw a few admins
supporting
you.
As for the fines the cops are racking up.....that's ridiculous, but
then
it's the law, and we all know the consequences for everything from
speeding
to reckless driving to racing.
It's amazing how much cops get
away with ....
Just 2 days ago I saw something on TLC (the learning channel)
about
speeding, detectors/jammers, and a few towns in the country that devote
a
considerable amount of time and effort to catching speeders. They
are
administering tickets far above the average town. They are
generating money
for their town. And they are doing it "legally."
A shame. It's just that
two branches of the government (executive and
judicial) shook hands and the
system of checks and balances doesn't work in
that town any more. Let me
rephrase that-->three branches, because
the legislative branch is the one
feeding them many of these ridiculous laws
(gees...get a ticket for an
exhaust that is 50 states legal and passes
emissions...THAT IS WRONG). Boy,
I wish there was a system out there
that would put red dots on my GPS screen
when they were nearby. Until
then, I'll have to make due with a radar/laser
jammer and my eyes. The
combination works wonderful. Still...wishful
thinking on my
part.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
-
-------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 07:59:08
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Street racing
I appologize to this board but this must
stop..........
how much trash I'm getting from yesterdays post. I this
continues
throughout the day I will "De-list" myself and continue business
elsewhere.
this is getting very old very fast.....................please
drop it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 22:51:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Street racing
> As for the fines the cops are racking
up.....that's ridiculous, but then
> it's the law, and we all know the
consequences for everything from speeding
> to reckless driving to
racing.
- ---
Sometimes the only thing people respond to..is financial
pain.
> It's amazing how much cops get away with ....
-
---
It's amazing how much people fall flat..and allow them to get away
with..
> Just 2 days ago I saw something on TLC (the learning channel)
about
> speeding, detectors/jammers, and a few towns in the country that
devote a
> considerable amount of time and effort to catching
speeders. They are
> administering tickets far above the average
town. They are generating money
> for their town. And they are
doing it "legally." A shame. It's just that
> two branches of
the government (executive and judicial) shook hands and the
> system of
checks and balances doesn't work in that town any more.
- ---
Texas I
belive, passed a law that only allowed a certain percentage of a
city's
budget derive from traffic court collections to combat this.
> feeding
them many of these ridiculous laws (gees...get a ticket for an
> exhaust
that is 50 states legal and passes emissions...THAT IS WRONG).
- ---
No,
its wrong that the person who got the ticket didnt fight it. Its
not
the cops job to interpret the law..he felt it was bad. I got
stopped for
that here in San Jose in the RX7. I very -very- politely
asked the
officer to show me the code I was being written for, and he
actually did.
We discussed the merits of having to sit in court for a day
(for both of
us) for him to defend a ticket he couldnt reasonably prove was
worth a
stop. It just "looked" illegal to him. He let me off..was
kinda cool.
Its amazing how much being polite can change a cop. Dont
hate them, they
deal with the scum of the earth day in and day out..ive seen
good people
go to crap after becoming cops because of that.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 02:44:31
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: BG
Synchroshift fluid?
Everyone,
My brother wants to put BG
Synchroshift fluid in his Transmission (94 TT).
Is there one universal weight
or can he specify GL-4, SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W?
He needs this for Michigan
driving all year round (snow and hot 100+ deg F
summers).
TRANSMISSION
FLUIDS
2.5 qts. = Manual transaxle <94 AWD> -- BG Synchroshift
from
http://www.machv.com/bgsynchroshift.html
for $36 for 3 quarts.
I found a source at MACH V for $12/qt. Is
this a good deal? Anyone have
any coupons? Can this stuff be
bought locally at Autozone,Murrays,
Pepboys...?
-
-MIKE-
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:04:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BG Synchroshift fluid?
Use redline, IMHO.
On Wed, 1
Aug 2001, Mihai Raicu wrote:
> Everyone,
>
> My brother
wants to put BG Synchroshift fluid in his Transmission (94 TT).
> Is there
one universal weight or can he specify GL-4, SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W?
> He
needs this for Michigan driving all year round (snow and hot 100+ deg F
>
summers).
>
> TRANSMISSION FLUIDS
> 2.5 qts. = Manual
transaxle <94 AWD> -- BG Synchroshift from
>
http://www.machv.com/bgsynchroshift.html
for $36 for 3 quarts.
>
> I found a source at MACH V for
$12/qt. Is this a good deal? Anyone have
> any coupons?
Can this stuff be bought locally at Autozone,Murrays,
>
Pepboys...?
>
> -MIKE-
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 06:51:05
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
Looks like you were
right. I went through my piping, although I couldn't
really find
anything that popped off I went and re-fitted the pipes anyway
even using new
clamps.
Well hesistation problem hasn't comeback since I did this
about 4 days ago.
Thanks guys for all your input.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: WALTER D. BEST [mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 5:46 PM
To: Michael Bulaon
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
If you did hit, what 1.2 bars
or better, you more than likely blew off an
intercooler hose some
where. Go back through the hoses and tighten them up,
you'll more than
likely find one that is not totally sealed. Any time you
generate boost
you are have the problem and when rubber on the hoses heats
up the problem
become more apparent, since they become more flexible with
heat. It's
more than likely a minor leak and the car is drivable until you
start
generating boost.
Do that before fooling around with your BOV, since you
didn't change any on
it that isn't your problem.
Hope this
helps,
Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 04:53:30
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Good street/occasional track use brake pad?
> I'm shopping for
brake pads for my Stealth and I'd like some opinion on
the Porterfield R4S
and anything else comparable. My ES has turbo calipers
on it but only
weighs about 3200 lbs empty. So I really don't need the
massive
clamping force that the AWD cars need (but it would be nice to have
:)
) I'm also looking for something that will go well with my
Porterfield
cryo rotors (not slotted or drilled) I know most of you are
road course
racers so I'm hoping for some good answers :)
> Jeff V.,
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
- --------------------------------
My
Stealth NT now has the R4-S pads, and I couldn't be happier with
their
performance, both on the track and on the street. Much more
positive
stopping power, and only the slightest fade after repeated
high-speed
braking at the track (4 consecutive 20-30 minute runs in 120
degree heat).
I disagree, BTW, that we don't need as much stopping power as
the heavier
turbos... I want the best brakes I can possibly have, since
my interest in
safety is way bigger than my "need for speed".
We're
all waiting to hear of Chuck Willis' experiences with the
newly-designed (to
fit our cars) pads from Carbotech, too. MOF, their new
VP, Andie Lin,
just joined our list so he can answer any of our questions
and deal with
problem issues. Perhaps he will have some input if he sees
these
posts. I'd be curious about comparisons of their Panther pads
(and
their high-temp pads) with Porterfield's offerings. The Carbotech
pad
compounds sound outstanding.
FYI, only "a few" of us on the list
are road racers, but it may seem like
more, since we're so vocal. But
the whole idea of Team3S is sharing what we
learn about our cars with the
other owners. Those of us who race, learn *a
lot*. What we bring
to the list benefits many other owners who only "lurk",
and rarely post
messages. If even one owner learns how to stop their car
1/10th of a
second faster in a panic stop from 80mph on the freeway, THAT
ability just
saved them a car-length, and possibly avoided an accident. It
may sound
boring, but the reason I bought my Stealth in 1994 was for the
side-impact
protection, dual airbags, and a little blurb I read in
Consumer
reports: "The Stealth has the shortest stopping distance we
have ever
recorded". I went right to the showroom.
:-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 05:06:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd:
Re: Team3S: Engine removal
Hi all,
Does someone have Bob Fontana's
URL?
Bob has a picture of his whole engine coming out.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Robert Booker <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Reply-to: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
>
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
>
To: "John T. Christian" <
JCZooM@iname.com>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine removal
> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 21:29:26 -0400
>
> I just checked, and my link is also dead. Maybe he
> is still on
the list or
> somebody knows where the site is.
>
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Matt
>
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > Thanks for the
suggestion. The bookmark I have
> for Fontana comes back
>
> obsolete.
> > Do you know his current site URL?
>
>
> > Be of good cheer,
> > John
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 05:16:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pistons
Hi all,
Several people have suggested that I
replace my
pistons with new forged pistons.
Question: What brand
and where do I purchase them?
Do forged pistons come with rods and wrist
pins? Or do
I use my old stock ones?
Be of good
cheer,
John
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 06:05:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine removal
http://www.pictperf.org/mitsvr4/That
link and 260 other owner links are on the HUGE Links page at my
web site.
There are also some engine-removed pics on my Gallery web
page.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Christian" <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 01, 2001 6:06 AM
Subject: Fwd: Re: Team3S: Engine
removal
Hi all,
Does someone have Bob Fontana's URL?
Bob
has a picture of his whole engine coming out.
Be of good cheer,
John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 06:07:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pistons
My piston upgrade web page may answer some of your
questions.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-pistonguide.htmPistons
do not come with rods. They should come with pins. Rings are
usually
"extra".
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "John Christian" <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
To:
"3sTeam3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 01, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: Pistons
Hi
all,
Several people have suggested that I replace my
pistons with new
forged pistons.
Question: What brand and where do I purchase
them?
Do forged pistons come with rods and wrist pins? Or do
I use my
old stock ones?
Be of good cheer,
John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 09:27:38
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brakes (was: Good street/occasional track use brake pad?)
I am in
the midst of helping a friend and his future delivery of the Alcon
6-piston
brakes. This will give more input and round out the story.
I'm
sure anyone who is going to get these is already aware of what changes
are
necessary to their car.
I don't know what pads or type of rotor
will be used with these so we'll
find out more later.
As for Chuck
testing his pads -- that is the thrill of FIVE of us running at
Topeka in two
weeks so we can compare pads, rotors, brake ducts, suspension,
etc.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Forrest
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 7:53
AM
---------------------snip-------------