Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Tuesday, July 24 2001    Volume 01 : Number 555




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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:54:47 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Shootout news --- Who won?

1st place: Matt Monet: Dynamic Racing, Best run 11.50@119 mph
2nd place: Jose Soriano: GT Pro, Best run 11.82@118 mph
3rd place: Trent Karr: Independent, Best run 12.704@107.72 mph

Here's a page with all the information.

http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/2001_DSM_Shootout.html

Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of John Christian
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 3:34 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Shootout news --- Who won?

Hi all,

Blown headgasket so I couldn't defend my old 2nd place
title or Xwing his 1st place.
 Maybe in 2002, right Jack T?

Well,  Who won??  How many Stealths/VR4's attended??

Congrats to all who could attend.

Be of good cheer,
John

Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:57:15 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Heartland Park Approacheth

On August 11-12, at least four of us will be scaring Porsches and M3s at
Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas: Flash, Mike and Chuck Willis, and me.

At least two others have expressed an interest (just a nibble), so there
could be SIX of us!

Flash is coming from Pittsburgh, Chuck from Dallas and I'm from Cedar
Rapids, so anyone within that range is welcome to hook up and caravan along.

Registration forms are up on the Porsche Club site at
http://vista.pca.org//gpl/driversed.html

Next stop for the VR4/Stealth tour probably will be OktoberFAST at Road
America in October.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:42:58 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:07:55 -0700

> My shifter linkage is sticking / binding. Very hard to shift into gear but no grinding or odd sounds.
> My first guess is maybe my linkage is bent or needs lube.....any thoughts
> I have not even looked under the hood yet...just happened at lunch and would like to know where to start when I get home.

Read through the archives where I had trouble with my clutch
hydraulic system .. sounds very similar to your problem.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:06:28 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes

My baby girl just bought a 91 Stealth TT.
We'd like to upgrade the brakes.

As it happens, I have a spare set of 94 VR4 front calipers and a couple of
spare rotors.
Can we simply bolt up the 94 VR4 brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
line up, including brake lines?

The previous owner installed a new set of 17 in. Mitsubishi or Stealth
wheels, but we don't know what year they are. I know we have to have 94 or
later wheels to clear the 94 VR4 calipers. Someone out there has a web site
with photos of all the wheels (Curt?). Anybody got a link to that wheel
page so we can start comparing?

Thanks.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:35:10 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes

> Can we simply bolt up the 94 VR4 brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
> line up, including brake lines?

The 2nd gen front calipers and rotors bolt right up with no changes.
Your wheels will still have to clear the calipers however.

If you go with rear rotors too, those rotors and calipers will also bolt
right on but you will have to take off the rear dust shields (or cut
them off like I did).

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:29:12 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st gen brakes

On our FAQ pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQwheels.htm

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
- ---------snip-----------
> The previous owner installed a new set of 17 in. Mitsubishi or Stealth
> wheels, but we don't know what year they are. I know we have to have 94 or
> later wheels to clear the 94 VR4 calipers. Someone out there has a web
site
> with photos of all the wheels (Curt?). Anybody got a link to that wheel
> page so we can start comparing?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:16:03 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st gen brakes

Here is some real hard data for you.

This past weekend I helped Bill Hubbell at Poconos (South course day one
with PCA and North course with PDA for two days).

Day one he drove his Ferrari 512 TR until complications took it off the
track and got it a flatbed trip home.

Day two and three he drove the 92 VR-4 until we ran out of pads.

I have Big Reds on my 95 VR-4 so I wanted to loan these to him.  I was not
sure it would bolt on.  It did.  Awesome work!  The Big Reds take a banjo
fitting and the stock caliper takes something like a straight fitting (look
at my page at the bottom for pictures).  Well the calipers fit into the same
holes but I realized the worst fear and that is the rotor is a different
size.  I knew I forgot one thing on the emails I had read.  He did have
Spyder wheels which I knew were a second gen car so that was not a problem.

So there we were, both cars up on jack stands, one car with no right front
caliper, one car with two calipers on the front right.  This would have
worked but the pads on the second gen caliper are taller (and overhang the
outside of the first gen rotor) so it would not have been all that much of a
benefit with the first gen rotors.  The problem was that my rotors are
slightly warped and not good for braking at 120 mph.

Bottom line?

Second gen calipers fit perfectly on first gen cars.  Second gen rotors are
larger.  Second gen or larger aftermarket wheels are needed to clear
calipers.  Bolts mounting caliper to hub are 17mm, bleed valves are 10mm,
brake line fitting is a 17mm and a 10mm size.  Don't forget to bleed the
brakes when finished.

- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:19:38 -0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

This is the first time I've posted to this list, but I need a higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire elsewhere.

I recently replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with Redline.  The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the transfer case.

According to the service manual, it takes .63 quarts.  I wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little extra after it started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe."  Now, when I inspect it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.

I believe that when I drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I actually overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it).  My
question is this.  Is there an overflow vent on the transfer case?  Its next
to impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming from, but its not from
the fill or drain plug.  If there is not a vent, then I'm afraid a seal has
ruptured, and that's not good with a Getrag.

Any comments from those of you who know this tranny better would be
appreciated.

Kai
'92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:28:13 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: need a diet (not me the car)

95 VR-4 is at least 3,850 pounds.
Driver seat is 60 pounds.
Passenger seat is (I forget) 30-40 pounds.
Wheels and tires each weight 50 pounds.
Don't forget that the car is beefier so it has bigger stuff (center
differential, rear differential, junk for all-wheel steering and active aero
devices), suspension is bigger, car is wider, longer, etc.  Brakes are about
13.1 inches and have 4-piston calipers, larger brake cylinder I imagine,
etc.

You can't compare the two.  You CAN compare it to something like a Supra
(inline 6 not V6) or something like that.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:35:27 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

You might want to read your manual again.   .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer case.

Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 5:20 PM
To: team3S
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

This is the first time I've posted to this list, but I need a higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire elsewhere.

I recently replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with Redline.  The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the transfer case.

According to the service manual, it takes .63 quarts.  I wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little extra after it started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe."  Now, when I inspect it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.

I believe that when I drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I actually overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it).  My
question is this.  Is there an overflow vent on the transfer case?  Its next
to impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming from, but its not from
the fill or drain plug.  If there is not a vent, then I'm afraid a seal has
ruptured, and that's not good with a Getrag.

Any comments from those of you who know this tranny better would be
appreciated.

Kai
'92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:36:02 -0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

That would make more sense... it coincides with what I got in there.

Still, is there a vent or should I start the procedure over again?

Thanks,
Kai

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 3:35 PM
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

You might want to read your manual again.   .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer case.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:44:31 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: Big Red Question

Sort of a dumb question about the Big Reds - what Porsche model(s) and
years came stock with these calipers?
- -Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:55:51 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP

Sounds to me like your Thermostat is going bad and either not opening enough
or opening too much.  Either way it doesn't sound like it is working as it
should be.  At least this sounds like your cooling problem anyway.

The other problem sounds like ignition issue which may have straighten it
self out once the car dried out.

Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 12:38 AM
Subject: Team3S: Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP

> After the car being parked for 2 weeks it was finally nice weather so i
> took it to a car wash... About 20 minutes after the car wash the car
> started to act funny... Once i take it to 4000rpm it would stutter and
> the gas pedal would have no responce and eventually the RPM would drop
> and the car would shut off. The car would start but as soon as it
> stabilize to its regular idle the car would shut off. This happened not
> only when i would be driving but parked as well. When i parked the car
> for about 6 hours and drove it again that day the problem never came
> back.
>       Next evening i'm driving around fine for about 30 minutes then i
> see the temperature guage was rising slowly above the center towards the
> (H) (it was between the picture on the temperature guage and the (H)) I
> parked the car and checked for leaks and if all the fans are working and
> if the antifreeze is full but there is nothing wrong. Next morning i
> start the car... and while parked i was revving it for about 5
> minutes... and it starting rising again almost touching the (H)... Once
> again no leaks fans work everything seems fine... Does anyone know what
> can cause this problem... I need help... i'm really nervouse that i
> would have to spend a lot of money fixing this problem... And all this
> started happening after not driving for 2 weeks...
> Thanks A Lot..
> Robert Katrikh

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:19:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red Question

911, 930, 928, 993, C2.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:

> Sort of a dumb question about the Big Reds - what Porsche model(s) and
> years came stock with these calipers?
> -Steve
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:18:03 EDT
From: MaxNix@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question

I'm trying to check  fuel pressure in a '92 TT. I installed an in line fuel
pressue gauge between the fuel filter and an aftermarket FPR (Paxton). Can
anyone tell me what residual pressure should be in the system after the
engine is shutdown. Also should the pressure fluctuate above 43lbs during
cranking ? If so by how much ? I suspect a faulty pressure regulator.

TIA

Paul
92 RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:55:03 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS question.

Hasn't anyone on this list tried the EFI PMS as an alternative?

Rich
92 Stealth TT

profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net wrote:
>
> I have the HKS AFR to control my fuel, similar to the Apex'i AFC.  This is
> what I have for now till I get either my Arc2 or VPC.  Not sure yet, still
> deciding.
>
> I'd agree with you if it only wasn't the fact that my car has been running
> fine for about a month and a half with the current setup of my injectors and
> HKS controller.  I haven't changed any of the settings . Becuase of this I'm
> not sure the problem would be remedied with more tuning of the fuel.
>
> Thanks for the the input.
>
> Michael Bulaon
>
> > What fuel controller are you using?  Sounds like you don't have it
> adjusted
> > right at higher airflow rates and the car is drowning in fuel.
> >
> > (Assuming you do have a fuel controller - its required with 550's)
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 21:32:26 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dry sump oil system and accusump

Does anyone now if there is a dry sump oil kit that fits TT's?  Any
experience with the Accusump accumulator?

Thanks,
Michael D. Crose

P.S.  Sorry I forgot to give this a subject earlier.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:13:09 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question

To the best of my knowledge, pressure spiking during cranking is normal.
Pressure @ idle (and after shut down) should be 34-38 psi.

Wayne

At 05:18 PM 7/23/01 , MaxNix@aol.com wrote:
>I'm trying to check  fuel pressure in a '92 TT. I installed an in line fuel
>pressue gauge between the fuel filter and an aftermarket FPR (Paxton). Can
>anyone tell me what residual pressure should be in the system after the
>engine is shutdown. Also should the pressure fluctuate above 43lbs during
>cranking ? If so by how much ? I suspect a faulty pressure regulator.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:40:24 -0700
From: Ian Marks <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install

I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now I'm noticing a honking
sound that seems to occur under medium to hard acceleration but not
consistently.
Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?

*************************************
Ian Marks
'94 Stealth TT
Los Angeles

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:03:22 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Head compatability

Are there any issues with bolting '92 heads onto a '95 block?  Both my heads
were damaged by the broken pistons and I'd like to put Kent Rabourn's '92
heads on my car.  I didn't think there were any issues in doing that, but I
wanted to run the question here to make sure...  Cam Angle Sensors work the
same?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:09:53 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MAS question.

> Hasn't anyone on this list tried the EFI PMS as an alternative?

The 3/S version isn't quite ready yet...  Almost there...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:18:15 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install

> I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now I'm
> noticing a honking sound that seems to occur under
> medium to hard acceleration but not consistently.
> Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?

TONS of information on this in the Archives.  (But don't ask me how to get
to them....)

Summary:  replace stock BOV with either a modified 1G DSM BOV (1G BOV with a
2nd Gen DSM adaptor flange) or a Greddy or something similar.  For more info
search the old List Archives.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:32:05 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Head compatability

The 91-93 heads and cams are not the same as "93.5" on as I recollect.  I
believe the cam sensors may be different, but the cam profile and the valves
are slightly different as I recall.  That is not to say that you could not
make the older ones work, but I do not believe they are identical even if
they do bolt directly onto the 95 block.

If you have a service manual handy it will show you that the cam profiles
are different and I believe the valves themselves may be different, but of
course check further in case someone else has done this.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Are there any issues with bolting '92 heads onto a '95 block?
> Both my heads
> were damaged by the broken pistons and I'd like to put Kent Rabourn's '92
> heads on my car.  I didn't think there were any issues in doing
> that, but I
> wanted to run the question here to make sure...  Cam Angle
> Sensors work the
> same?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:30:22 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install

Ian,

Ahhhh a newbie to the K&N install.  Welcome to the pack where under hard
acceleration you chase from under the hood the gaggle of Canadian Geese that
were huddling around the warm manifold of the engine.

You did everything right.  For me that honking occurs around 3,000 RPM
(2,800-3,400) but only under hard acceleration and nothing less than about
60% WOT.  This is because of the change in air intake, better breathing,
more air being shoved into a restrictive area, yadda, yadda, yadda.

This is one of the fun parts to scaring the opponent instead of a large BOV
sound.  It also gives the passenger an indication of the amount of throttle
being applied when her eyes are clamped shut.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with engine-mounted Canadian Goose
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ian Marks
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:40 PM

I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now I'm noticing a honking
sound that seems to occur under medium to hard acceleration but not
consistently.
Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?

Ian Marks
'94 Stealth TT
Los Angeles


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 00:10:15 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question

- -----Original Message-----
From: MaxNix@aol.com <MaxNix@aol.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question


>I'm trying to check  fuel pressure in a '92 TT. I installed an in line fuel
>pressue gauge between the fuel filter and an aftermarket FPR (Paxton). Can
>anyone tell me what residual pressure should be in the system after the
>engine is shutdown. Also should the pressure fluctuate above 43lbs during
>cranking ? If so by how much ? I suspect a faulty pressure regulator.
>
>TIA
>
>Paul
>92 RT/TT

Stock fuel pressure at idle should be 34 psi.

You must have a strange setup if you are measuring fuel pressure
between the fuel filter and the FPR?

Best place to measure (unless directly at the FPR) would be
between the FPR and the rail(s).

I can't see having a fuel filter between the rails and the FPR??

I don't understand how you're setting this up at all.

Main line from tank should go to fuel filter/fuel pump then
injector rails.  Return line line from rails should go to FPR
which is also connected to the tank return line.

The pressure being regulated by the FPR should be
found/measured between the FPR and the rails -
what is a fuel filter doing there - *after* the rails?

Am I missing something?

- - tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:57:18 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

Have the car on level ground.

Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.


Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 5:36 PM
To: team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

That would make more sense... it coincides with what I got in there.

Still, is there a vent or should I start the procedure over again?

Thanks,
Kai

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 3:35 PM
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question


You might want to read your manual again.   .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer case.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:54:18 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install. Archive Search?

> > I installed a K&N filter kit on my Stealth and now I'm noticing a
honking sound that seems to occur under medium to hard acceleration but not
consistently.
> > Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?
> > Ian
>
> TONS of information on this in the Archives.  (But don't ask me how to get
to them....)
> Summary:  replace stock BOV with either a modified 1G DSM BOV (1G BOV with
a 2nd Gen DSM adaptor flange) or a Greddy or something similar.  For more
info search the old List Archives.
> -Matt


The Archive Page is where you'll find links to all 900+ pages of past list
discussions.  They are listed by date, in calendar format.  But if you want
to narrow it down a bit, try our Search Page.  Enter "honk" or "honking
goose" and you'll probably get back a list of 30 or so pages.  If you want
to be really fancy, you can enter  +honk +K&N  and it will list only pages
where "honk" and "K&N" are both mentioned.  Since the K&N only lets you hear
the honk better - but it's a BOV problem - I suggest you enter  +honk -K&N,
to return only pages about honking where K&N is *not* mentioned;  or  +honk
+bov  might be even better...

Start at www.Team3S.com.  Happy Searching!  ;-)

Forrest
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 02:03:56 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)

A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the end
really).  I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates the
hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
wide or whatever size they are.

Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over it.
I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek afterwards
revealed some new shiny surfaces.

I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back there
but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.  My question is
are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
dummy light on the dash that lights?  I know about the front diff but where
is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how do you
fill it if it is low?  Is the main fill location responsible for the front,
center, and rear differential?

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM

Have the car on level ground.

Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:21:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)

Nah..you didnt hurt it.

Remember..its a jacking point, and probly stronger than the block itself.

On Tue, 24 Jul 2001, Darren Schilberg wrote:

> A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the end
> really).  I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates the
> hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
> at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
> wide or whatever size they are.
>
> Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over it.
> I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
> However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek afterwards
> revealed some new shiny surfaces.
>
> I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back there
> but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.  My question is
> are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
> dummy light on the dash that lights?  I know about the front diff but where
> is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how do you
> fill it if it is low?  Is the main fill location responsible for the front,
> center, and rear differential?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
> www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Bedell
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
>
> Have the car on level ground.
>
> Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
> filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:31:58 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/0-frames.htm

According to this page the capacity of a '92 transfer case is .27 liters
(.29qts).  Additionally it should only be filled to 11-13 mm below the fill
hole.  So if you filled up to the fill hole there's too much in there.  Hope
it's right because I just changed mine last night. :)

Sean
'91 R/T TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell [mailto:bbedell@austin.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 17:35
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question


You might want to read your manual again.   .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer case.



Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 5:20 PM
To: team3S
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case Question

This is the first time I've posted to this list, but I need a higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire elsewhere.

I recently replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with Redline.  The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the transfer case.

According to the service manual, it takes .63 quarts.  I wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little extra after it started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe."  Now, when I inspect it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.

I believe that when I drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I actually overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it).  My
question is this.  Is there an overflow vent on the transfer case?  Its next
to impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming from, but its not from
the fill or drain plug.  If there is not a vent, then I'm afraid a seal has
ruptured, and that's not good with a Getrag.

Any comments from those of you who know this tranny better would be
appreciated.

Kai
'92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:54:07 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install

Another owner discovers the "honking goose"!

1.  It doesn't hurt anything.
2.  You can eliminate it by installing a DSM Eclipse Blow Off Valve (BOV),
which has an adapter for our cars.
http://www.buschurracing.com/
3.  You must be new to this list - this has got to be one of the ten most
FAQs!

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian Marks [SMTP:ianmarks@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 9:40 PM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install
>
> I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now I'm noticing a honking
> sound that seems to occur under medium to hard acceleration but not
> consistently.
> Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?
>
> *************************************
> Ian Marks
> '94 Stealth TT
> Los Angeles

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:30:10 -0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes

Hey Rich,

My wheel page is at: http://www.mn3s.org/wheels.html

You'll need the 94+ VR4 or TT rims to clear the the 2g calipers.  You can
also use the 97-99 SL rims.  I saw a 95 VR4 the other day with those rims
on.  I was a little shocked to see the SL rims on it, but they were.  And
yes, it was a VR4.  I can smell them a mile away.  ;)

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

>From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com, Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
>Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:06:28 -0500
>
>My baby girl just bought a 91 Stealth TT.
>We'd like to upgrade the brakes.
>
>As it happens, I have a spare set of 94 VR4 front calipers and a couple of
>spare rotors.
>Can we simply bolt up the 94 VR4 brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
>line up, including brake lines?
>
>The previous owner installed a new set of 17 in. Mitsubishi or Stealth
>wheels, but we don't know what year they are. I know we have to have 94 or
>later wheels to clear the 94 VR4 calipers. Someone out there has a web site
>with photos of all the wheels (Curt?). Anybody got a link to that wheel
>page so we can start comparing?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:41:37 -0400
From: "Volthause" <volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red Question

Incorrect.  The Big Red's didn't hit the Porsche until the 993, which would
be mid 1990's.

The earlier 911's, 930's, and 928's use different calipers.

- -Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: <3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red Question


>
> 911, 930, 928, 993, C2.
>
> On Mon, 23 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:
>
> > Sort of a dumb question about the Big Reds - what Porsche model(s) and
> > years came stock with these calipers?
> > -Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:01:29 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)

Flash,

The rear differential is in the middle of the rear axles.  It's the jacking
point for the rear end.  Open the fill plug and stick your finger in.  If it
comes back oily, you have fluid.  While you're at it, why not just drain the
old 90W and put some fresh RedLine in?

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
>
> A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the end
> really).  I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates the
> hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
> at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
> wide or whatever size they are.
>
> Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over
> it.
> I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
> However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek afterwards
> revealed some new shiny surfaces.
>
> I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back
> there
> but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.  My question
> is
> are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
> dummy light on the dash that lights?  I know about the front diff but
> where
> is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how do
> you
> fill it if it is low?  Is the main fill location responsible for the
> front,
> center, and rear differential?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
> www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Bedell
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
>
> Have the car on level ground.
>
> Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
> filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:47:06 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)

Do NOT put synthetic fluid in your diff unless you're going to do a seal
replacement too.  I put Redline in mine, then it leaked around all the seals,
and the infamous 'clunking' began.  The car only had 60k on it!

BOL
Ken

"Willis, Charles E." wrote:

> Flash,
>
> The rear differential is in the middle of the rear axles.  It's the jacking
> point for the rear end.  Open the fill plug and stick your finger in.  If it
> comes back oily, you have fluid.  While you're at it, why not just drain the
> old 90W and put some fresh RedLine in?
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04 AM
> > To:   Team3S
> > Subject:      Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
> >
> > A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the end
> > really).  I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates the
> > hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
> > at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
> > wide or whatever size they are.
> >
> > Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over
> > it.
> > I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
> > However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek afterwards
> > revealed some new shiny surfaces.
> >
> > I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back
> > there
> > but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.  My question
> > is
> > are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
> > dummy light on the dash that lights?  I know about the front diff but
> > where
> > is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how do
> > you
> > fill it if it is low?  Is the main fill location responsible for the
> > front,
> > center, and rear differential?
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4
> > www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brad Bedell
> > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
> >
> > Have the car on level ground.
> >
> > Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
> > filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:55:35 -0400
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.

Yesterday I posted a problem I was having with hesitation that I thought was
being caused by a 1/2 inch rip in the honeycomb of the MAS on my 95 VR-4.

Let me better explain what happened as I think my problem may be more than
just the rip.

The problem first occurred on Sunday 7/22/01.  I was driving the car, going
pretty strong.  I was in fourth gear, let off the gas a little and rpm's
dropped. I then gassed it again and the car spiked to 1.22bar according to
my peak readings on my Blitz DSBC. At this point I felt what appeared to be
some sort of stumbling or hesitation which I assume is fuel cut.  I
immediately let off the gas.

I continued driving and noticed very odd characteristics with the car.  The
car would hesitate on light throttle under 4000 rpm's, however if I got on
the gas, it would hesitate and buck slightly then be ok and pull strong till
redline.

When I got to my destination, I got the chance to inspect the front three
plugs which looked ok.  I also decreased the gap from .35 to .32.  The car
cooled down some by the time I put the plugs back in and test drove the car.

At first the car seemed fine, but the hesitation came back. It seemed to
comeback after the car had warmed up.  However the characteristics were the
same. Severe hesitation under 4k under light throttle and relatively low
boost.  Upon WOT, slight hesitation till 4k, car runs strong afterwards till
redline.

Yesterday, I then noticed there was a 1/2 hole in the bottom part of the
honeycomb of the MAS.  I tried to fix it as much as I could.  The hole is
gone, but that part of the honeycomb is still distorted.  I took it for a
test drive and the problem was still the same.


So far all I know is that the problem isn't apparent till the engine is
fully warmed up.  Also the problem isn't as severe under WOT above 4k RPM,
and very severe under light throttle under 4k RPM.

Hey guys any input is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Michael Bulaon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:21:26 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)

Which Redline?  We've put redline in all four cars' trannys, transfer cases,
and rear diff's without any problem.  The rear differential has different
fluid (75W90) from the tranny and transfer case (MT90 I think).

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stanton [SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:47 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
>
> Do NOT put synthetic fluid in your diff unless you're going to do a seal
> replacement too.  I put Redline in mine, then it leaked around all the
> seals,
> and the infamous 'clunking' began.  The car only had 60k on it!
>
> BOL
> Ken
>
> "Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> > Flash,
> >
> > The rear differential is in the middle of the rear axles.  It's the
> jacking
> > point for the rear end.  Open the fill plug and stick your finger in.
> If it
> > comes back oily, you have fluid.  While you're at it, why not just drain
> the
> > old 90W and put some fresh RedLine in?
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04 AM
> > > To:   Team3S
> > > Subject:      Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
> > >
> > > A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the
> end
> > > really).  I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates
> the
> > > hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru
> lanes
> > > at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and
> 6"
> > > wide or whatever size they are.
> > >
> > > Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right
> over
> > > it.
> > > I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the
> ground.
> > > However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek
> afterwards
> > > revealed some new shiny surfaces.
> > >
> > > I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back
> > > there
> > > but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.  My
> question
> > > is
> > > are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there
> a
> > > dummy light on the dash that lights?  I know about the front diff but
> > > where
> > > is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how
> do
> > > you
> > > fill it if it is low?  Is the main fill location responsible for the
> > > front,
> > > center, and rear differential?
> > >
> > > --Flash!
> > > 1995 VR-4
> > > www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Brad Bedell
> > > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
> > >
> > > Have the car on level ground.
> > >
> > > Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run out.     If you've over
> > > filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the
> case.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #555
***************************************