Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 24
2001 Volume 01 : Number
555
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:54:47 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Shootout news --- Who won?
1st place: Matt Monet: Dynamic Racing, Best
run
11.50@119 mph
2nd place: Jose Soriano: GT
Pro, Best run
11.82@118 mph
3rd place: Trent
Karr: Independent, Best run
12.704@107.72
mph
Here's a page with all the information.
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/2001_DSM_Shootout.htmlJeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of John Christian
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 3:34 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Shootout news --- Who
won?
Hi all,
Blown headgasket so I couldn't defend my old 2nd
place
title or Xwing his 1st place.
Maybe in 2002, right Jack
T?
Well, Who won?? How many Stealths/VR4's
attended??
Congrats to all who could attend.
Be of good
cheer,
John
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:57:15
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Heartland Park Approacheth
On August 11-12, at least four of us
will be scaring Porsches and M3s at
Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas: Flash,
Mike and Chuck Willis, and me.
At least two others have expressed an
interest (just a nibble), so there
could be SIX of us!
Flash is coming
from Pittsburgh, Chuck from Dallas and I'm from Cedar
Rapids, so anyone
within that range is welcome to hook up and caravan along.
Registration
forms are up on the Porsche Club site at
http://vista.pca.org//gpl/driversed.htmlNext
stop for the VR4/Stealth tour probably will be OktoberFAST at Road
America in
October.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:42:58
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:07:55 -0700
> My shifter linkage is
sticking / binding. Very hard to shift into gear but no grinding or odd
sounds.
> My first guess is maybe my linkage is bent or needs lube.....any
thoughts
> I have not even looked under the hood yet...just happened at
lunch and would like to know where to start when I get home.
Read through
the archives where I had trouble with my clutch
hydraulic system .. sounds
very similar to your problem.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:06:28
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
My baby girl just bought a 91 Stealth
TT.
We'd like to upgrade the brakes.
As it happens, I have a spare set
of 94 VR4 front calipers and a couple of
spare rotors.
Can we simply bolt
up the 94 VR4 brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
line up, including
brake lines?
The previous owner installed a new set of 17 in. Mitsubishi
or Stealth
wheels, but we don't know what year they are. I know we have to
have 94 or
later wheels to clear the 94 VR4 calipers. Someone out there has a
web site
with photos of all the wheels (Curt?). Anybody got a link to that
wheel
page so we can start
comparing?
Thanks.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:35:10
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
> Can we simply bolt up the 94 VR4
brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
> line up, including brake
lines?
The 2nd gen front calipers and rotors bolt right up with no
changes.
Your wheels will still have to clear the calipers
however.
If you go with rear rotors too, those rotors and calipers will
also bolt
right on but you will have to take off the rear dust shields (or
cut
them off like I did).
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:29:12
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
On our FAQ pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQwheels.htm-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
-
---------snip-----------
> The previous owner installed a new set of 17
in. Mitsubishi or Stealth
> wheels, but we don't know what year they are.
I know we have to have 94 or
> later wheels to clear the 94 VR4 calipers.
Someone out there has a web
site
> with photos of all the wheels
(Curt?). Anybody got a link to that wheel
> page so we can start
comparing?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:16:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
Here is some real hard
data for you.
This past weekend I helped Bill Hubbell at Poconos (South
course day one
with PCA and North course with PDA for two days).
Day
one he drove his Ferrari 512 TR until complications took it off the
track and
got it a flatbed trip home.
Day two and three he drove the 92 VR-4 until
we ran out of pads.
I have Big Reds on my 95 VR-4 so I wanted to loan
these to him. I was not
sure it would bolt on. It did.
Awesome work! The Big Reds take a banjo
fitting and the stock caliper
takes something like a straight fitting (look
at my page at the bottom for
pictures). Well the calipers fit into the same
holes but I realized the
worst fear and that is the rotor is a different
size. I knew I forgot
one thing on the emails I had read. He did have
Spyder wheels which I
knew were a second gen car so that was not a problem.
So there we were,
both cars up on jack stands, one car with no right front
caliper, one car
with two calipers on the front right. This would have
worked but the
pads on the second gen caliper are taller (and overhang the
outside of the
first gen rotor) so it would not have been all that much of a
benefit with
the first gen rotors. The problem was that my rotors are
slightly
warped and not good for braking at 120 mph.
Bottom line?
Second
gen calipers fit perfectly on first gen cars. Second gen rotors
are
larger. Second gen or larger aftermarket wheels are needed to
clear
calipers. Bolts mounting caliper to hub are 17mm, bleed valves
are 10mm,
brake line fitting is a 17mm and a 10mm size. Don't forget to
bleed the
brakes when finished.
- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:19:38
-0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <
kail@colubs.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transfer Case Question
This is the first time I've posted to this list,
but I need a higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire
elsewhere.
I recently replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with
Redline. The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the
transfer case.
According to the service manual, it takes .63
quarts. I wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little
extra after it started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe." Now,
when I inspect it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.
I believe
that when I drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I
actually overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it).
My
question is this. Is there an overflow vent on the transfer
case? Its next
to impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming
from, but its not from
the fill or drain plug. If there is not a vent,
then I'm afraid a seal has
ruptured, and that's not good with a
Getrag.
Any comments from those of you who know this tranny better would
be
appreciated.
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:28:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: need a diet (not me the car)
95 VR-4 is at least 3,850
pounds.
Driver seat is 60 pounds.
Passenger seat is (I forget) 30-40
pounds.
Wheels and tires each weight 50 pounds.
Don't forget that the car
is beefier so it has bigger stuff (center
differential, rear differential,
junk for all-wheel steering and active aero
devices), suspension is bigger,
car is wider, longer, etc. Brakes are about
13.1 inches and have
4-piston calipers, larger brake cylinder I imagine,
etc.
You can't
compare the two. You CAN compare it to something like a Supra
(inline 6
not V6) or something like that.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:35:27
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question
You might want to read your manual
again. .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer
case.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart
and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 5:20 PM
To: team3S
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case
Question
This is the first time I've posted to this list, but I need a
higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire elsewhere.
I recently
replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with Redline.
The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the transfer
case.
According to the service manual, it takes .63 quarts. I
wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little extra after it
started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe." Now, when I inspect
it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.
I believe that when I
drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I actually
overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it). My
question is
this. Is there an overflow vent on the transfer case? Its next
to
impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming from, but its not from
the
fill or drain plug. If there is not a vent, then I'm afraid a seal
has
ruptured, and that's not good with a Getrag.
Any comments from
those of you who know this tranny better would
be
appreciated.
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:36:02
-0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <
kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Transfer Case Question
That would make more sense... it coincides with
what I got in there.
Still, is there a vent or should I start the
procedure over again?
Thanks,
Kai
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 3:35 PM
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Transfer Case Question
You might want to read your manual
again. .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer
case.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:44:31
-0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Big Red Question
Sort of a dumb question about the Big Reds -
what Porsche model(s) and
years came stock with these calipers?
-
-Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:55:51
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP
Sounds to me like your
Thermostat is going bad and either not opening enough
or opening too
much. Either way it doesn't sound like it is working as it
should
be. At least this sounds like your cooling problem anyway.
The
other problem sounds like ignition issue which may have straighten it
self
out once the car dried out.
Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 23, 2001 12:38 AM
Subject: Team3S: Continueating Problems with
my 92 VR4... NEed HELP
> After the car being parked for 2 weeks it was
finally nice weather so i
> took it to a car wash... About 20 minutes
after the car wash the car
> started to act funny... Once i take it to
4000rpm it would stutter and
> the gas pedal would have no responce and
eventually the RPM would drop
> and the car would shut off. The car would
start but as soon as it
> stabilize to its regular idle the car would shut
off. This happened not
> only when i would be driving but parked as well.
When i parked the car
> for about 6 hours and drove it again that day the
problem never came
> back.
>
Next evening i'm driving around fine for about 30 minutes then i
> see the
temperature guage was rising slowly above the center towards the
> (H) (it
was between the picture on the temperature guage and the (H)) I
> parked
the car and checked for leaks and if all the fans are working and
> if the
antifreeze is full but there is nothing wrong. Next morning i
> start the
car... and while parked i was revving it for about 5
> minutes... and it
starting rising again almost touching the (H)... Once
> again no leaks
fans work everything seems fine... Does anyone know what
> can cause this
problem... I need help... i'm really nervouse that i
> would have to spend
a lot of money fixing this problem... And all this
> started happening
after not driving for 2 weeks...
> Thanks A Lot..
> Robert
Katrikh
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:19:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red Question
911, 930, 928, 993, C2.
On
Mon, 23 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:
> Sort of a dumb question about
the Big Reds - what Porsche model(s) and
> years came stock with these
calipers?
> -Steve
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:18:03
EDT
From:
MaxNix@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question
I'm trying to check fuel pressure in
a '92 TT. I installed an in line fuel
pressue gauge between the fuel filter
and an aftermarket FPR (Paxton). Can
anyone tell me what residual pressure
should be in the system after the
engine is shutdown. Also should the
pressure fluctuate above 43lbs during
cranking ? If so by how much ? I
suspect a faulty pressure regulator.
TIA
Paul
92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:55:03
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
MAS question.
Hasn't anyone on this list tried the EFI PMS as an
alternative?
Rich
92 Stealth TT
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
wrote:
>
> I have the HKS AFR to control my fuel, similar to the
Apex'i AFC. This is
> what I have for now till I get either my Arc2
or VPC. Not sure yet, still
> deciding.
>
> I'd agree
with you if it only wasn't the fact that my car has been running
> fine
for about a month and a half with the current setup of my injectors and
>
HKS controller. I haven't changed any of the settings . Becuase of this
I'm
> not sure the problem would be remedied with more tuning of the
fuel.
>
> Thanks for the the input.
>
> Michael
Bulaon
>
> > What fuel controller are you using? Sounds
like you don't have it
> adjusted
> > right at higher airflow
rates and the car is drowning in fuel.
> >
> > (Assuming you
do have a fuel controller - its required with 550's)
> >
> >
-Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 21:32:26
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dry sump oil system and accusump
Does anyone now if there is a
dry sump oil kit that fits TT's? Any
experience with the Accusump
accumulator?
Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
P.S. Sorry I forgot
to give this a subject earlier.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:13:09
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure Question
To the best of my knowledge, pressure
spiking during cranking is normal.
Pressure @ idle (and after shut down)
should be 34-38 psi.
Wayne
At 05:18 PM 7/23/01 ,
MaxNix@aol.com wrote:
>I'm trying to
check fuel pressure in a '92 TT. I installed an in line
fuel
>pressue gauge between the fuel filter and an aftermarket FPR
(Paxton). Can
>anyone tell me what residual pressure should be in the
system after the
>engine is shutdown. Also should the pressure fluctuate
above 43lbs during
>cranking ? If so by how much ? I suspect a faulty
pressure regulator.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 19:40:24
-0700
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install
I installed a K&N filter kit
on my stealth and now I'm noticing a honking
sound that seems to occur under
medium to hard acceleration but not
consistently.
Is this due to the
K&N or did I run over a
duck?
*************************************
Ian Marks
'94 Stealth
TT
Los Angeles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:03:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head compatability
Are there any issues with bolting '92 heads
onto a '95 block? Both my heads
were damaged by the broken pistons and
I'd like to put Kent Rabourn's '92
heads on my car. I didn't think
there were any issues in doing that, but I
wanted to run the question here to
make sure... Cam Angle Sensors work the
same?
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:09:53
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
> Hasn't anyone on this list tried the EFI
PMS as an alternative?
The 3/S version isn't quite ready yet...
Almost there...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:18:15
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install
> I installed a K&N
filter kit on my stealth and now I'm
> noticing a honking sound that seems
to occur under
> medium to hard acceleration but not consistently.
>
Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a duck?
TONS of information
on this in the Archives. (But don't ask me how to get
to
them....)
Summary: replace stock BOV with either a modified 1G DSM
BOV (1G BOV with a
2nd Gen DSM adaptor flange) or a Greddy or something
similar. For more info
search the old List Archives.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:32:05
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Head compatability
The 91-93 heads and cams are not the same as "93.5" on
as I recollect. I
believe the cam sensors may be different, but the cam
profile and the valves
are slightly different as I recall. That is not
to say that you could not
make the older ones work, but I do not believe they
are identical even if
they do bolt directly onto the 95 block.
If you
have a service manual handy it will show you that the cam profiles
are
different and I believe the valves themselves may be different, but of
course
check further in case someone else has done this.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Are there any issues with bolting '92
heads onto a '95 block?
> Both my heads
> were damaged by the broken
pistons and I'd like to put Kent Rabourn's '92
> heads on my car. I
didn't think there were any issues in doing
> that, but I
> wanted
to run the question here to make sure... Cam Angle
> Sensors work
the
> same?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:30:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install
Ian,
Ahhhh a newbie to the
K&N install. Welcome to the pack where under hard
acceleration you
chase from under the hood the gaggle of Canadian Geese that
were huddling
around the warm manifold of the engine.
You did everything right.
For me that honking occurs around 3,000 RPM
(2,800-3,400) but only under hard
acceleration and nothing less than about
60% WOT. This is because of
the change in air intake, better breathing,
more air being shoved into a
restrictive area, yadda, yadda, yadda.
This is one of the fun parts to
scaring the opponent instead of a large BOV
sound. It also gives the
passenger an indication of the amount of throttle
being applied when her eyes
are clamped shut.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with engine-mounted Canadian
Goose
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Marks
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001
10:40 PM
I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now I'm
noticing a honking
sound that seems to occur under medium to hard
acceleration but not
consistently.
Is this due to the K&N or did I run
over a duck?
Ian Marks
'94 Stealth TT
Los
Angeles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 00:10:15
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel Pressure Question
- -----Original Message-----
From:
MaxNix@aol.com <
MaxNix@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, July 23, 2001 7:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pressure
Question
>I'm trying to check fuel pressure in a '92 TT. I
installed an in line fuel
>pressue gauge between the fuel filter and an
aftermarket FPR (Paxton). Can
>anyone tell me what residual pressure
should be in the system after the
>engine is shutdown. Also should the
pressure fluctuate above 43lbs during
>cranking ? If so by how much ? I
suspect a faulty pressure
regulator.
>
>TIA
>
>Paul
>92 RT/TT
Stock fuel pressure at idle should be 34 psi.
You must have a
strange setup if you are measuring fuel pressure
between the fuel filter and
the FPR?
Best place to measure (unless directly at the FPR) would
be
between the FPR and the rail(s).
I can't see having a fuel filter
between the rails and the FPR??
I don't understand how you're setting
this up at all.
Main line from tank should go to fuel filter/fuel pump
then
injector rails. Return line line from rails should go to
FPR
which is also connected to the tank return line.
The pressure
being regulated by the FPR should be
found/measured between the FPR and the
rails -
what is a fuel filter doing there - *after* the rails?
Am I
missing something?
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:57:18
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question
Have the car on level
ground.
Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run
out. If you've over
filled, you will have oil come
out of the vent hole on top of the case.
Brad
Check out my home
page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart
and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 5:36 PM
To: team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case
Question
That would make more sense... it coincides with what I got in
there.
Still, is there a vent or should I start the procedure over
again?
Thanks,
Kai
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 3:35 PM
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Transfer Case Question
You might want to read your manual
again. .32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer
case.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:54:18
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install. Archive Search?
> > I
installed a K&N filter kit on my Stealth and now I'm noticing a
honking
sound that seems to occur under medium to hard acceleration but
not
consistently.
> > Is this due to the K&N or did I run over a
duck?
> > Ian
>
> TONS of information on this in the
Archives. (But don't ask me how to get
to them....)
>
Summary: replace stock BOV with either a modified 1G DSM BOV (1G BOV
with
a 2nd Gen DSM adaptor flange) or a Greddy or something similar.
For more
info search the old List Archives.
> -Matt
The
Archive Page is where you'll find links to all 900+ pages of past
list
discussions. They are listed by date, in calendar format.
But if you want
to narrow it down a bit, try our Search Page. Enter
"honk" or "honking
goose" and you'll probably get back a list of 30 or so
pages. If you want
to be really fancy, you can enter +honk
+K&N and it will list only pages
where "honk" and "K&N" are
both mentioned. Since the K&N only lets you hear
the honk better -
but it's a BOV problem - I suggest you enter +honk -K&N,
to return
only pages about honking where K&N is *not* mentioned; or
+honk
+bov might be even better...
Start at
www.Team3S.com. Happy Searching!
;-)
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 02:03:56
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
A similar question to the rear
differential (the question is at the end
really). I managed to drive
over one of those curbs that separates the
hotel drive-up lane and the
parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
at Taco Bell, McDonald's,
etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
wide or whatever size they
are.
Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right
over it.
I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the
ground.
However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek
afterwards
revealed some new shiny surfaces.
I see it scraped a little
of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back there
but am unsure if it did
any damage to the rear differential. My question is
are there any signs
to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
dummy light on the dash
that lights? I know about the front diff but where
is the rear one (I'm
sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how do you
fill it if it is
low? Is the main fill location responsible for the front,
center, and
rear differential?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001
7:57 PM
Have the car on level ground.
Open the fill hole and allow
any extra to run out. If you've over
filled, you will
have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the case.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:21:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
Nah..you didnt hurt
it.
Remember..its a jacking point, and probly stronger than the block
itself.
On Tue, 24 Jul 2001, Darren Schilberg wrote:
> A
similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the end
>
really). I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates
the
> hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru
lanes
> at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall
and 6"
> wide or whatever size they are.
>
> Anyway, the
front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over it.
> I have
stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
>
However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek
afterwards
> revealed some new shiny surfaces.
>
> I see it
scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back there
> but
am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential. My question
is
> are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there
a
> dummy light on the dash that lights? I know about the front diff
but where
> is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can find it)
or how do you
> fill it if it is low? Is the main fill location
responsible for the front,
> center, and rear differential?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Bedell
> Sent:
Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
>
> Have the car on level
ground.
>
> Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run
out. If you've over
> filled, you will have oil
come out of the vent hole on top of the case.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:31:58
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer Case Question
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/0-frames.htmAccording
to this page the capacity of a '92 transfer case is .27
liters
(.29qts). Additionally it should only be filled to 11-13 mm
below the fill
hole. So if you filled up to the fill hole there's too
much in there. Hope
it's right because I just changed mine last night.
:)
Sean
'91 R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad
Bedell [mailto:bbedell@austin.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001
17:35
To: Kai Langendoen; team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer Case
Question
You might want to read your manual again.
.32qt's is the capacity of the
transfer case.
Brad
Check
out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
Murphy's law of inanimate reproduction: "If you take anything apart
and put
it together enough times, pretty soon you have two."
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday,
July 23, 2001 5:20 PM
To: team3S
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case
Question
This is the first time I've posted to this list, but I need a
higher degree
of expertise than I can acquire elsewhere.
I recently
replaced my transaxle and transfer case fluid with Redline.
The
transaxle is working great, but I'm concerned about the transfer
case.
According to the service manual, it takes .63 quarts. I
wasn't able to get
that much in, but I pumped in a little extra after it
started seeping out of
the fill hole "to be safe." Now, when I inspect
it, there is fluid dripping
from the housing.
I believe that when I
drained the old gear oil that not all of it came out,
so I actually
overfilled it (although I thought I underfilled it). My
question is
this. Is there an overflow vent on the transfer case? Its next
to
impossible to ascertain where the fluid is coming from, but its not from
the
fill or drain plug. If there is not a vent, then I'm afraid a seal
has
ruptured, and that's not good with a Getrag.
Any comments from
those of you who know this tranny better would
be
appreciated.
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:54:07
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N install
Another owner discovers the
"honking goose"!
1. It doesn't hurt anything.
2. You can
eliminate it by installing a DSM Eclipse Blow Off Valve (BOV),
which has an
adapter for our cars.
http://www.buschurracing.com/3.
You must be new to this list - this has got to be one of the ten
most
FAQs!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Ian Marks [SMTP:ianmarks@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 9:40
PM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: "Honking" after K&N
install
>
> I installed a K&N filter kit on my stealth and now
I'm noticing a honking
> sound that seems to occur under medium to hard
acceleration but not
> consistently.
> Is this due to the K&N or
did I run over a duck?
>
>
*************************************
> Ian Marks
> '94 Stealth
TT
> Los Angeles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:30:10
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
Hey Rich,
My wheel page is
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/wheels.htmlYou'll
need the 94+ VR4 or TT rims to clear the the 2g calipers. You can
also
use the 97-99 SL rims. I saw a 95 VR4 the other day with those rims
on. I was a little shocked to see the SL rims on it, but they
were. And
yes, it was a VR4. I can smell them a mile away.
;)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st gen brakes
>Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:06:28
-0500
>
>My baby girl just bought a 91 Stealth TT.
>We'd like
to upgrade the brakes.
>
>As it happens, I have a spare set of 94
VR4 front calipers and a couple of
>spare rotors.
>Can we simply
bolt up the 94 VR4 brakes to the 91 Stealth? Does everything
>line up,
including brake lines?
>
>The previous owner installed a new set of
17 in. Mitsubishi or Stealth
>wheels, but we don't know what year they
are. I know we have to have 94 or
>later wheels to clear the 94 VR4
calipers. Someone out there has a web site
>with photos of all the wheels
(Curt?). Anybody got a link to that wheel
>page so we can start
comparing?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:41:37
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red Question
Incorrect. The Big Red's
didn't hit the Porsche until the 993, which would
be mid 1990's.
The
earlier 911's, 930's, and 928's use different calipers.
- -Scott
Holthausen
'94 VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 23, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Big Red
Question
>
> 911, 930, 928, 993, C2.
>
> On Mon,
23 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:
>
> > Sort of a dumb question
about the Big Reds - what Porsche model(s) and
> > years came stock
with these calipers?
> > -Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:01:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
Flash,
The rear
differential is in the middle of the rear axles. It's the jacking
point
for the rear end. Open the fill plug and stick your finger in. If
it
comes back oily, you have fluid. While you're at it, why not just
drain the
old 90W and put some fresh RedLine in?
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04 AM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
>
> A similar question to the rear differential (the question is at the
end
> really). I managed to drive over one of those curbs that
separates the
> hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at
drive-thru lanes
> at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are
about 6" tall and 6"
> wide or whatever size they are.
>
>
Anyway, the front tires cleared but the rear right tire drove right over
>
it.
> I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the
ground.
> However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek
afterwards
> revealed some new shiny surfaces.
>
> I see it
scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back
>
there
> but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear differential.
My question
> is
> are there any signs to the rear differential
losing fluid or is there a
> dummy light on the dash that lights? I
know about the front diff but
> where
> is the rear one (I'm sure if
I jack up the car I can find it) or how do
> you
> fill it if it is
low? Is the main fill location responsible for the
> front,
>
center, and rear differential?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Bedell
> Sent:
Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
>
> Have the car on level
ground.
>
> Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run
out. If you've over
> filled, you will have oil
come out of the vent hole on top of the case.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:47:06
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
Do NOT put synthetic fluid in
your diff unless you're going to do a seal
replacement too. I put
Redline in mine, then it leaked around all the seals,
and the infamous
'clunking' began. The car only had 60k on
it!
BOL
Ken
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
Flash,
>
> The rear differential is in the middle of the rear
axles. It's the jacking
> point for the rear end. Open the
fill plug and stick your finger in. If it
> comes back oily, you
have fluid. While you're at it, why not just drain the
> old 90W and
put some fresh RedLine in?
>
> Chuck
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04
AM
> > To: Team3S
> >
Subject: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s
only)
> >
> > A similar question to the rear differential (the
question is at the end
> > really). I managed to drive over one
of those curbs that separates the
> > hotel drive-up lane and the
parking lot (like the ones at drive-thru lanes
> > at Taco Bell,
McDonald's, etc.) - the ones that are about 6" tall and 6"
> > wide or
whatever size they are.
> >
> > Anyway, the front tires
cleared but the rear right tire drove right over
> > it.
> > I
have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high off the ground.
>
> However, I did hear it scrape the bottom of the car and a peek
afterwards
> > revealed some new shiny surfaces.
> >
>
> I see it scraped a little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces
back
> > there
> > but am unsure if it did any damage to the
rear differential. My question
> > is
> > are there any
signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there a
> > dummy
light on the dash that lights? I know about the front diff but
>
> where
> > is the rear one (I'm sure if I jack up the car I can
find it) or how do
> > you
> > fill it if it is low? Is
the main fill location responsible for the
> > front,
> >
center, and rear differential?
> >
> > --Flash!
> >
1995 VR-4
> >
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brad
Bedell
> > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
> >
>
> Have the car on level ground.
> >
> > Open the fill hole
and allow any extra to run out. If you've over
>
> filled, you will have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the
case.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:55:35
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
Yesterday I posted a
problem I was having with hesitation that I thought was
being caused by a 1/2
inch rip in the honeycomb of the MAS on my 95 VR-4.
Let me better explain
what happened as I think my problem may be more than
just the rip.
The
problem first occurred on Sunday 7/22/01. I was driving the car,
going
pretty strong. I was in fourth gear, let off the gas a little and
rpm's
dropped. I then gassed it again and the car spiked to 1.22bar according
to
my peak readings on my Blitz DSBC. At this point I felt what appeared to
be
some sort of stumbling or hesitation which I assume is fuel cut.
I
immediately let off the gas.
I continued driving and noticed very
odd characteristics with the car. The
car would hesitate on light
throttle under 4000 rpm's, however if I got on
the gas, it would hesitate and
buck slightly then be ok and pull strong till
redline.
When I got to
my destination, I got the chance to inspect the front three
plugs which
looked ok. I also decreased the gap from .35 to .32. The
car
cooled down some by the time I put the plugs back in and test drove the
car.
At first the car seemed fine, but the hesitation came back. It
seemed to
comeback after the car had warmed up. However the
characteristics were the
same. Severe hesitation under 4k under light
throttle and relatively low
boost. Upon WOT, slight hesitation till 4k,
car runs strong afterwards till
redline.
Yesterday, I then noticed
there was a 1/2 hole in the bottom part of the
honeycomb of the MAS. I
tried to fix it as much as I could. The hole is
gone, but that part of
the honeycomb is still distorted. I took it for a
test drive and the
problem was still the same.
So far all I know is that the problem
isn't apparent till the engine is
fully warmed up. Also the problem
isn't as severe under WOT above 4k RPM,
and very severe under light throttle
under 4k RPM.
Hey guys any input is greatly
appreciated.
Regards,
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:21:26
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
Which Redline? We've
put redline in all four cars' trannys, transfer cases,
and rear diff's
without any problem. The rear differential has different
fluid (75W90)
from the tranny and transfer case (MT90 I think).
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stanton
[SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:47 AM
>
To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
differential (TT/VR-4s only)
>
> Do NOT put synthetic fluid in your
diff unless you're going to do a seal
> replacement too. I put
Redline in mine, then it leaked around all the
> seals,
> and the
infamous 'clunking' began. The car only had 60k on it!
>
>
BOL
> Ken
>
> "Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
>
> Flash,
> >
> > The rear differential is in the middle of
the rear axles. It's the
> jacking
> > point for the rear
end. Open the fill plug and stick your finger in.
> If it
>
> comes back oily, you have fluid. While you're at it, why not just
drain
> the
> > old 90W and put some fresh RedLine in?
>
>
> > Chuck
> >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:04
AM
> > > To: Team3S
> > >
Subject: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s
only)
> > >
> > > A similar question to the rear
differential (the question is at the
> end
> > >
really). I managed to drive over one of those curbs that separates
>
the
> > > hotel drive-up lane and the parking lot (like the ones at
drive-thru
> lanes
> > > at Taco Bell, McDonald's, etc.) - the
ones that are about 6" tall and
> 6"
> > > wide or whatever
size they are.
> > >
> > > Anyway, the front tires
cleared but the rear right tire drove right
> over
> > >
it.
> > > I have stock suspension fortunately so I am already high
off the
> ground.
> > > However, I did hear it scrape the
bottom of the car and a peek
> afterwards
> > > revealed some
new shiny surfaces.
> > >
> > > I see it scraped a
little of the exhaust pipes and support pieces back
> > >
there
> > > but am unsure if it did any damage to the rear
differential. My
> question
> > > is
> > >
are there any signs to the rear differential losing fluid or is there
>
a
> > > dummy light on the dash that lights? I know about the
front diff but
> > > where
> > > is the rear one (I'm
sure if I jack up the car I can find it) or how
> do
> > >
you
> > > fill it if it is low? Is the main fill location
responsible for the
> > > front,
> > > center, and rear
differential?
> > >
> > > --Flash!
> > >
1995 VR-4
> > >
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
Brad Bedell
> > > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 7:57 PM
> >
>
> > > Have the car on level ground.
> > >
>
> > Open the fill hole and allow any extra to run
out. If you've over
> > > filled, you will
have oil come out of the vent hole on top of the
> case.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#555
***************************************