team3s
Thursday, May 31
2001
Volume 01 : Number
508
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 May 2001 20:47:45 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tire question?
One other thing that I haven't seen mentioned in all this
is: If you have
an accident with tires that are rated at any level
below the vehicle
manufactures recommendation, and the accident is
investigated, which most
are if the car is totaled or near totaled, the
insurance company may not
cover your loss or repairs. Due to the fact
the tires on the car at the
time of the accident were not the correct tire
specified by the vehicle
manufacture. Insurance Companies are real PITA
when they have to shell out
money. And if you were not at fault and a
lawyer learns about the tire
issue they may try to pin the fault on you and
try to get you to pay damages
and to repair the other car(s) involved.
And of course all legal fees are
on you to defend your self, since your
insurance company has already left
the room.
Just food for thought,
you know how insurance companies are and not to bring
up what people think of
lawyers.
Bottom line is it really worth saving a few buck for cheaper
lower speed
rated tires?
Thanks but no thanks,
Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 17:47:23
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
spark plug group buy
I'm in for the NGK's. Price though
please.
The Hedonist wrote:
>
> Date: Tue, 29 May 2001
12:12:12 EDT
> From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com> Subject:
Team3S: NGK Platinum Spark Plug group buy??
>
> Alright all you
PITA's, =) My distributor is going to let me buy the
> stock plugs
at a good price if I get enough people intersted. If I did
> this,
who would be in?
>
> - -Paul
> Norwood, MA
>
>
ME ME ME... put me on your list can we get a price range?
>
>
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:49:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New race videos up..
Some new videos up of the MR-S, RX7-TT, and
an F355 and a Diablo I had
chance to play in as well.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/The
dynorun video is the Speedtoys.Com Lingenfelter project on the
dyno..pretty
much ignore that as its not apropos to the race event.
Team3s Content
(for the team3s list):
Bob Forrest has info on the race day at
Thunderhill Raceway Park at the
end of June..be there! He's got some
coooool new wheels to show off to
everyone.
Supras, GT4s, and OCC
clubs that are BCCd as well..be there. Fun track.
(This means you
Toybutta)
Here's the info...
June 30-July 1 ThunderHill (Racers,
HPDE, Plus 3 hr Enduro)
$149 1 day | $279 2 days | $350 Enduro
What is
HPDE?
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6098Download
forms:
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_category.asp?Unique=37040.8641550926&ObjectID=6003We
will be doing both days in HPDE, and I plan to run on Sunday
and get some
time in to qualify for my competition license.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 04:12:13
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Racing at ThunderHill, 6/30-7/01!
Hey, Race Fans,
Jeff has already
mentioned it in another Team3S post, but a bunch of us are
going up to Race
at Thunderhill (2 hrs above Sacramento) on June 30th and
July 1st.
Eileen and I will be in the Novice classes, while Jeff and Nissa
(and some of
their Speedtoys buddies) will be in the more advanced, and
'competition'
classes. If you want to hone your driving skills, see how
well your car
performs, or even just watch the rest of us, this is going to
be a fun event,
with both instruction and racing. We just did Laguna Seca
this past
weekend and it was outrageous!
Anyone who wants to join us should
download an entry form (see below) and
submit it by June 12th. If you
need details, most of it is on the websites
below, but for other questions or
comments, *please* email Jeff or me
*privately*, OFF the list. We're
getting pretty excitied, and having an
excuse to do a few more mods to our
Stealth is an added perk... Let us know
if you can make it - it's gonna
be great! This is not limited to Stealths
or 3000GTs or
Team3S
members, so if you want to bring friends with other cars, let them
know about
it ASAP. We'll be booking rooms at:
Golden Pheasant Inn in Willows,
CA.
Details...
June 30-July 1 ThunderHill (Racers, HPDE, Plus 3 hr
Enduro)
$149 1 day | $279 2 days | $350 Enduro
What is HPDE?
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6098Download
forms:
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_category.asp?Unique=37040.8641550926&ObjectID=6003
We're
planning to do both days in HPDE (High Performance Driving Events), as
are
Jeff & Nissa, plus Jeff is running on Sunday to get some time in
to
qualify for his competition license. You don't have to race if your
car
isn't up to it, but come to the track anyway just to hang out with
us.
See you there!
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:00:12
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV and "gas fumes" smell?
>>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> -
5/30/01 3:27 PM >>>
> It has an HKS BOV(vents to atmosphere), and
every time it operates,
> I get a faint (sometimes more) gasoline smell
inside the car.
> Is this normal?
Roger wrote:
> "No
unfortunately not."
I'm afraid it is normal. The HKS BOV vents to
atmosphere, so when the throttle plate shuts (while shifting), the air in the
system escapes. The MAF sensor had already measured for the air flow and
signaled for a certain corresponding fuel amount. When the air in the system
vents, this creates a temporarily rich condition, as the measured air is
no longer in the intake tract. That rich condition explains why you are smelling
fuel, the fuel vapor is probably coming backwards through the heads, and back
into the intake path. This also explains why you probably feel a slight stumble
in between shifts. If you don't have the slight stumble in between shifts, I'd
be very surprised.
Regards,
Daniel Jett
San Jose, Ca
92
Stealth RT/TT (RIP)
94 Stealth RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:42:39
+0200
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Change Rear Brake pads
Well, it seems so simple that I could never
beleive I had to ask....anyway
My car is a Dodge Stealth RT/TT
1992
I simply wanted to change the brake pads on it.
The front
ones were a piece of cake (getting rid of the dealer installed
Nisshinbo
Brake Pads ..... they are awful....with them, it's almost
impossible to
activate the ABS on a dry road....and after the 2nd or 3rd
braking....you
have SEVERE brake fade)
But the rear ones were....interesting...
I
wanted to use the
instruction...
____________________________________________________________________________
________
jack
up the back and remove your rear wheel. you'll see your caliper. there
are 2
bolts on the back of the caliper. they go thru a little rubber boot.
undo the
bottom one and loosen the top one. 12mm i think. rotate the caliper
upward so
you can get to the pads. pull one side off and then replace it
with the
matching replacement. do the same with the other side. now, pop
your hood and
uncap the brake fluid fill. go back to the caliper and use
some big pliers to
push the piston into the caliper. rotate it back down and
tighten both of the
bolts back up. job
done.
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Seems
pretty easy....well...not exactly.
First of all, the 2 bolts are NOT 12mm,
not even metric !
Even without any visible corrosion, they seem to be welded
in place (I broke
a ratchet trying to remove them).
Question : Has the
Stealth a different rear caliper, does the above
procedure work on them...or
should I try something different ?
Is there something obvious that I'm
missing (like...if the tread
is
counterclockwise..)
Best
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 07:11:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Change Rear Brake pads
For the rear brakes (at least for 1st
gen cars), you will have to
remove the the caliper from the rotor to change
the pads. Be sure you
are removing the bolts that attach the caliper to the
hub, NOT the
bolts that hold the two pieces of the caliper together (1st gen
rear
calipers are the floating design).
Be sure you are turning the
bolt counterclockwise (as you are looking
at the head of the bolt from the
centerline of the car) to remove it.
(Are there bolts besides the wheel lugs
on 1960's Dodge wheels that
are left to tight instead of right to tight?).
Once the caliper is off the rotor (be careful of the brake line)
just
slide the pads toward the middle (and off the little protrusions
on
the caliper) and remove. The spring clips stay in place in the
caliper.
Look at the service manual for visuals (Service Brakes
section).
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
To: <
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:42 AM
Subject: Team3S: Change Rear Brake
pads
Well, it seems so simple that I could never beleive I had
to
ask....anyway
My car is a Dodge Stealth RT/TT 1992
I simply
wanted to change the brake pads on it.
The front ones were a piece of
cake (getting rid of the dealer
installed Nisshinbo Brake Pads ..... they are
awful....with them,
it's almost impossible to activate the ABS on a dry
road....and after
the 2nd or 3rd braking....you have SEVERE brake
fade)
But the rear ones were....interesting...
I wanted to use the
instruction...
____________________________________________________________________
jack
up the back and remove your rear wheel. you'll see your caliper.
there are 2
bolts on the back of the caliper. they go thru a little
rubber boot. undo the
bottom one and loosen the top one. 12mm i
think. rotate the caliper upward so
you can get to the pads. pull one
side off and then replace it with the
matching replacement. do the
same with the other side. now, pop your hood and
uncap the brake
fluid fill. go back to the caliper and use some big pliers to
push
the piston into the caliper. rotate it back down and tighten both
of
the bolts back up. job
done.
____________________________________________________________________
Seems
pretty easy....well...not exactly.
First of all, the 2 bolts are NOT 12mm,
not even metric !
Even without any visible corrosion, they seem to be welded
in place
(I broke
a ratchet trying to remove them).
Question : Has
the Stealth a different rear caliper, does the above
procedure work on
them...or should I try something different ?
Is there something obvious that
I'm missing (like...if the tread
is
counterclockwise..)
Best
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 09:31:09
-0500
From: S J Cowan <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Change Rear Brake pads
> For the rear brakes (at least for 1st
gen cars), you will have to
> remove the the caliper from the rotor to
change the pads. Be sure
> you
> are removing the bolts that attach
the caliper to the hub, NOT the
> bolts that hold the two pieces of the
caliper together (1st gen
> rear
> calipers are the floating
design).
Right, the bottom part swings up over the top of the caliper
and the
rotor.
> Be sure you are turning the bolt counterclockwise
(as you are
> looking
> at the head of the bolt from the centerline
of the car) to remove
> it.
Use liquid wrench prior if these bolts
have not been loosened in a while
and then plenty of anti-seize whence
re-assembling.
> Once the caliper is off the rotor (be careful of the
brake line)
> just
> slide the pads toward the middle (and off the
little protrusions on
> the caliper) and remove.
Hmmmm....
When I swing the bottom of the caliper over the top, the pads
and shims come
with it and fall out and make a nice mess on the garage
floor. While
I'm in there I always clean up the caliper area as best as
possible.
Also, be sure you get new shims with the new brake pads. The
old ones
can be reused, but we're talking peanuts to work in a clean
environment when
reassembling.
SJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
> To: <
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:42 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Change Rear Brake
pads
>
> Well, it seems so simple that I could never beleive I had
to
> ask....anyway
>
> My car is a Dodge Stealth RT/TT
1992
>
> I simply wanted to change the brake pads on it.
>
> The front ones were a piece of cake (getting rid of the dealer
>
installed Nisshinbo Brake Pads ..... they are awful....with them,
> it's
almost impossible to activate the ABS on a dry road....and
>
after
> the 2nd or 3rd braking....you have SEVERE brake fade)
>
> But the rear ones were....interesting...
>
> I wanted to
use the instruction...
>
____________________________________________________________________
>
jack up the back and remove your rear wheel. you'll see your
>
caliper.
> there are 2 bolts on the back of the caliper. they go thru a
little
> rubber boot. undo the bottom one and loosen the top one. 12mm
i
> think. rotate the caliper upward so you can get to the pads. pull
> one
> side off and then replace it with the matching replacement.
do the
> same with the other side. now, pop your hood and uncap the
brake
> fluid fill. go back to the caliper and use some big pliers to
push
> the piston into the caliper. rotate it back down and tighten both
> of
> the bolts back up. job done.
>
____________________________________________________________________
>
Seems pretty easy....well...not exactly.
> First of all, the 2 bolts are
NOT 12mm, not even metric !
> Even without any visible corrosion, they
seem to be welded in place
> (I broke
> a ratchet trying to remove
them).
>
> Question : Has the Stealth a different rear caliper,
does the above
> procedure work on them...or should I try something
different ?
> Is there something obvious that I'm missing (like...if the
tread is
> counterclockwise..)
>
> Best
>
>
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:51:05
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Change Rear Brake pads
Ahhhh, wait. My fault.
First gen car. And I have aftermarket brakes on
the front so I was all
confused.
Anyway, whatever the procedure is ... be SURE to do it
correctly because the
simple thing like getting a kink in the brake hose will
make it not work,
damaging the rubber boot on the piston in the caliper will
make it not work
well.
Be real careful about all that
stuff.
Maybe an upgrade to second gen (the process I described) is in
order.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: H. Le Hir
[mailto:hlehir@lucent.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 9:43 AM
To:
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.comSubject:
Team3S: Change Rear Brake pads
Well, it seems so simple that I could
never beleive I had to ask....anyway
My car is a Dodge Stealth RT/TT
1992
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:49:18
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Change Rear Brake pads
Time for me to get back at you
Henri. Don't suggest to people that they
remove the caliper just to
change the pads. Someone might not attach the
caliper correctly and
then you told them the wrong procedure.
Did you look at your
manual? This might also be on Lucius' page. You don't
need to
remove the caliper to get to the rear brake pads. Pull out the
spring
that goes into the holes in the pins. Pull out the pins. Remove
the
sheet metal piece over top of the pads. Slide out the pads.
Push the
pistons into the caliper. Insert new pads. Press brake
pedal down to set
the pads. Reverse the sequence. Done.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 09:23:59
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV, "gas smell", etc. Part II
Thanks for all the
responses!
I knew that the HKS SBOV venting to atmosphere would
cause a temporary rich
condition when it operates, but I thought I wouldn't
smell it since it
should be coming out behind the car :-) I played with
it a bit yesterday,
and here's what I found:
Ran the car on the
highway, and did some 3rd and 4th gear WOT runs. Parked
the car, and
while still idling, removed the oil filler cap and took a
whiff.
Smelled like hot oil and every other valve cover I've smelled.
No
overpowering gas smell. Put the cap back on.
Had a friend
floor the throttle from idle and side-step it at 5k RPM - this
builds some
boost and then the BOV operates. Man, does that vent some air!
Held my
hand in the air stream from the BOV and smelled it. Nothing
obnoxious,
but I wasn't building more than .3-.5bar with this method.
Actually, the air
smelled quite normal.
Removed oil cap again. Then I stretched a
paper towel over the opening and
had a friend floor the throttle from idle
and side-step the throttle at 5k
RPM. Initially, it sucked the paper
towel in slightly (I think this is
expected if the PCV valve is operating)
and then was either neutral or
blowing out slightly as the engine built boost
and revved higher. In any
case, I couldn't tell the difference between
any pressure inside the valve
cover pushing on the paper towel and the drops
of oil being slung onto the
towel from the camshaft. Replaced the oil
filler cap.
Removed the PCV hose from the y-pipe and smelled.
Nothing but a little oil
smell. Stuck pinky finger in hose. Came
out a little black, but not oily.
Covered hose - no suction, no pressure at
idle. Had a friend floor the
throttle and side-step at 5k again.
Felt a tiny bit of pressure when the
engine built boost, but with the hose
unplugged and my hand about 2cm from
the hose end, there was not any more air
than a person with a really tiny
mouth talking quietly.
Based on the
above and the fact that car is running well (extremely smooth,
strong, etc.),
I'm guessing [hoping?!?] that there's nothing seriously wrong
with the
car.
Anybody have any comments on BOVs that vent to atmosphere vs. BOVs
that vent
back to the intake? Think it's worth it to spring [haha, I'm
so punny <g>]
for a BOV that vents back to the intake? I know the
GReddy one does...
What about strapping a hose to the front of the HKS BOV
and routing it back
to the stock BOV-intake location?
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy PRofecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Galaxy White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,000
mi
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch
Can,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:16:05
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire question?
Walter: You are dead wrong about the duty of
an insurance company to defend
you if you are in an accident and have tires
less than called for in terms
of rating. You are right though, on counting on
the other lawyer to try to
lay off fault on you because of the lower
rating.
First - the duty to defend (of the insurance company) is broader
than the
duty to indemnify (pay the other guys damages). If there is any
imaginable
way for you to be held liable on any theory other than intentional
conduct
(hardly likely), then the insurance company must hire a defense
lawyer for
you and they pay the tab.
Second - The other lawyer is only
going to contend the tires were at fault
if there is evidence to show they
caused the accident. If the incident, for
instance, is who ran the light,
then tires will not play a part, no matter
what the speed rating. If tires do
play a part, then the defense will need
to hire a tire expert. Again - the
insurance company will pay his tab.
Take my word for it on this subject.
I was an insurance defense lawyer for
15 years, and currently only represent
people of have been injured. (Same
game - different side).
Andy
Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:46:03
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin: HOAX Warning! - Important!
There is currently an e-mail
circulating on the Internet which purports to
be a warning about a
destructive V-I-R-U-S set to activate on June 1. THIS
MESSAGE IS A
HOAX. It usually arrives as a *warning* email, partially in
Portuguese
(it originated in Brazil), and then followed by an
English
translation.
The hoax message instructs people to look for a
file named SULFNBK.EXE on
their C:\ drive and to delete it, as it contains a
date-triggered v-i-r-u-s.
THIS IS A VALID SYSTEM FILE AND SHOULD NOT BE
DELETED.
(It is a file used by Windows to back up long file names.)
If
you receive such a message, simply ignore it. Do not forward it to
your
friends and colleagues. If you have already fallen prey to the
hoax, and
have deleted the file SULFNBK.EXE from your C:\Windows\Command
directory
(where it belongs), please reply *privately* to this note, and the
Team3S
Admins will send you instructions on how to restore the
file.
For further details,you may read all about it on the Symantec
(Norton)
website:
http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/sulfnbk.exe.warning.htmlor
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/refa.htmlPlease
ignore any messages regarding this hoax and do not forward such
messages to
*anyone*. Passing on messages about a hoax only serves to
further
propagate it. We will also *not* entertain discussions about it on
the
Team3S list - keep comments and replies *private*, please!
Thank
you.
The Admins, Team3S
www.Team3S.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:17:52
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Susquehannock Trails Pro Rally (PA)
I will be in Wellsboro,
PA this weekend watching the Susquehannock Trails
Pro Rally (STPR). I
will be attending with my cousin who co-drives in the
Canadian Series rally
series. His mechanic is helping on a team that is
running so maybe I'll
get to go "behind the pit walls" and chat with the Evo
team if they are
there. If not then any chats with the Rally guys will
be
exciting.
If anyone is within driving range then get there to watch
the Rally.
Northern Central Pennsylvania. I think the schedule is
on
http://www.scca.org <
http://www.scca.org> and then on the
bottom-left of
the page under Competition Rally or something.
I'll be
sure to have some stories ready. This will be on Speedvision in
the
next month sometime so maybe everyone will see me in the background of
the
Rally. Yippee.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:18:09
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes
Complete!
Well guys my brake job is complete. They are awesome. I will
try to get
some pictures out soon. It has the F-40 calipers, Porsche 993 T
320x32
mm rotors, and mounting equipment by KVR. Switched to Forgeline
T6
aluminum Wheels. I wanted to thank some of you for some references
and
help here, but wanted to caution about a not so good experience
with
KVR. Hey Flash, sorry, but Terry didn't do due diligence here. He
failed
to ensure that the bells were manufactured for the RIGHT car. Mine is
a
first gen and he made for 2nd gen. This led to extra labor in
machining
the hubs. I'll be dammed if I was going to take KVRs route by
having the
shop re-machine the bells. 2nd was his assurance to make
everything bolt
on by interacting with the wheel company that he advised on
"only wheel
he would gaurantee this would work well with his experience with
club
beamers and these wheels. Well he didn't bother to call Forgeline and
as
a result nothing fit. Extra labor again in messing around with
spacers
which ended up being extra 3/16". All in all the kit took 3
months
longer then expected due to machine shop problems and their brake
line
supplier which happens to be right here in San Clemente CA. The kit
cost
me an extra $550 due to their lack of due diligence. They only
offered
to pick up $290 of it (hub machining). Anyway, they work great, but
I
might reconsider who does it and even though they are reputable
and
Terry is very knowledgeable, the attention to detail was
poor.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 00:39:42
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV, "gas smell", etc. Part II
Upon your testings I'd
say everything is just perfect and should be as it
is.
It is indeed
possible that some of the gas fumes will be able to travel
backwards so it
will be vented by the BOV. I had the HKS on my car several
months and never
noticed that smell but that was just my car.
Regarding venting back, yes
the Greddy does as well the 1st gen BPV from the
DSMs do. I do like the
Greddy and it is high pressure profen but it is
somewhat expensive for what
you get. The rich condition a BOV produces is
somewhat more noticeable under
hot ambient conditions as the cars tries to
run somewhat richer (strange but
the datalogger showed this, maybe it ries
to cool the engine with more
fuel).
Attaching a large hose to the HKS... why not, but it will probably
look a
little bit strange.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Based on the above and the
fact that car is running well (extremely
smooth,
> strong, etc.), I'm
guessing [hoping?!?] that there's nothing seriously
wrong
> with the
car.
>
> Anybody have any comments on BOVs that vent to atmosphere
vs. BOVs that
vent
> back to the intake? Think it's worth it to
spring [haha, I'm so punny
<g>]
> for a BOV that vents back to
the intake? I know the GReddy one does...
> What about strapping a
hose to the front of the HKS BOV and routing it
back
> to the stock
BOV-intake location?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 23:31:19
-0400
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Daytime Running Lights
Hmmm... My car is a stock Canadianized
version and my DRL's are just the Driving lights below the
headlights. It
should be an easy adjustment to have them stay on for inspection. (i.e. Just
hardwire the driving light relay to the on position while the key is on...
should only be 1 wire,
I think.)
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 28
May 2001, at 20:27, Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> I have to modify my U.S. spec
'92 VR4 to include daytime running lights
> for use in Canada.
>
This can be a temporary modification but must make the headlights pop up
>
and come on whenever the ignition is turned on at least until I have the
>
car inspected.
> Has anyone out there done this and can offer some
guidance.
> I have the factory electrical manual and this looks fairly
complex.:-(
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Michael
Salter
>
>
www.precisionsportscar.comHumpty
Dumpty was pushed...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#508
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