team3s
Friday, May 25
2001
Volume 01 : Number
502
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 May 2001 13:20:39 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: looking for best car wash
I am looking for the best car wash for
my 1997 VR-4, which I had repainted
with PPG Metallic paint about a year
ago. Someone told me about Mcquires
Gold Class Car Wash, but none of
the local stores carry it.
I used to use Zymol Car wash, but can't find
that locally either.
We have a problem with hard water in my area, and
most washes cause water
spots. I tried Zymol Clear Auto Bath, and got
water spots.
Any suggestions ? Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:42:48
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: looking for best car wash
Anthony,
I don't think it is
so much the car wash as it is the car washER.
Many times one step to get
down to good paint surfaces is to wash the car
with a dishwashing detergent
(such as Dawn) to get off all the oxidized wax
layers. Using a clay bar
may also work (Mother's, McGuire's, etc.) Or just
use their system
(Mother's has about 5, McGuire's has about the same, and 3M
has a bazillion
(lots of scratch remedy bottles included in that)) to remove
oxidized paint,
resurface, re-wax, and add a final polish.
Using a stiff brush may add
swirl marks no matter what you use.
I like the Mother's line but that is
only from an online article about
exterior 3/S car care I read when I bought
my car.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:21 PM
To:
Team 3S List Submissions; 3000GT List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: looking
for best car wash
I am looking for the best car wash for my 1997 VR-4,
which I had repainted
with PPG Metallic paint about a year ago. Someone
told me about Mcquires
Gold Class Car Wash, but none of the local stores
carry it.
I used to use Zymol Car wash, but can't find that locally
either.
We have a problem with hard water in my area, and most washes
cause water
spots. I tried Zymol Clear Auto Bath, and got water
spots.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:24:34
-0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: 97 RT/10 for sale
A bit off topic, but perhaps someone on
Team3S is ripe for
a step up.
Rich
Wishing he had the $$
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
- --------
Original Message --------
Subject: FW: 97 RT/10 for sale
Date: Thu, 24 May
2001 10:08:02 -0700
From: "Retych, James" <
James.Retych@metawave.com>
To:
"Rich Leroy (E-mail)" <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Hi
Rich,
Don't know if anyone from the Stealth/3000 group
might be
interested in getting a Viper but here
are some details on this
RT/10.
It is a 97 which was the first year with...
- - 450 hp Gen II
motor
- - Power windows
- - Door handles
- - Locking rear window
- -
Hardtop that doesn't require removing sports bar.
- - Rear exhaust
(actually this started in 96 but it doesn't burn your
legs
like
mine)
There were less than 300 RT/10s made in 1997 due to the changes.
There
were
52 Blue w/white stripes produced, of which only 33 were sold to
the
public
and this color was not produced in any other year!
This
is a rare car at a very good price, we have a member who
is
collecting
rare Vipers and paid $73k for this combination last year,
and it didn't
include the hardtop! There are 2 of these cars in the
Washington
chapter,
none in the Oregon chapter of the VCA.
Please
pass the information along to anyone that may be interested in a
car
that
isn't going to depreciate very much and will certainly be a lot
of
fun!
James
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Bombacie_Mike@emc.com
[mailto:Bombacie_Mike@emc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:40 AM
To:
James.Retych@metawave.comSubject:
RE: 97 RT/10 for sale
17,500 easy miles!!!! for more pics, go
to
:<
http://www.motus1.com/html/4sale/viper>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Retych, James
[SMTP:James.Retych@metawave.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 3:46
PM
> To:
'Bombacie_Mike@emc.com'>
Subject: RE: 97 RT/10 for sale
>
> How many miles?
>
>
Subject: 97 RT/10 for sale
>
>
> HI ALL,
> I have
decided to lower the price on my Blue/white RT/10 to $55k. If
> you know
of anyone looking for a sweet ride this summer, please give me a
> call.
Picture attached.
> Thanx, MIKE
> 425-576-1211 home
>
425-748-3267 work
> <<viper_side.jpg>>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:08:48
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
I bought the Porterfield stainless
steel brake lines and am currently trying
to install them. On the rear
calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the stock
steel brake line threads into is not
the same size and dimension as the
factory line(connector). I cannot get
the SS line into the bracket far
enough to use the retaining clip. Anyone
else have this problem?
Any suggestions?
Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose
even though I am
using WD-40. I am afraid that I will shoulder the
connector if I pull on it
any harder.
Help please,
Michael D.
Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:13:58
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
I have some pix of my Goodridge
SS line install so if anybody wants them
just email me.
All I can say
for the connectors (the flat spring metal pieces where one
line connects to
another) is that lots of WD-40 over the course of a week
helped to loosen the
6 years of gunk and rust.
And I hope everyone who is doing this has a set
of brake line wrenches (11mm
and 13mm I think). NAPA stores have a set
that covers 10- and 12-mm, 11-
and 13-mm, and 12- and 14-mm wrenches I
think. I have a pic of those in
action and boy are they handy.
About $10-$15 for the set.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Crose
[mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 3:09 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
I bought the Porterfield stainless
steel brake lines and am currently trying
to install them. On the
rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the
stock steel brake line threads into is not
the same size and dimension as
the factory line(connector). I cannot get
the SS line into the bracket
far enough to use the retaining clip. Anyone
else have this
problem? Any suggestions?
Also I am having difficulties getting the
fittings loose even though I am
using WD-40. I am afraid that I will
shoulder the connector if I pull on it
any harder.
Help
please,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:42:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Can you take some photos
somehow?
On Thu, 24 May 2001, Michael D. Crose wrote:
> I
bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently trying
> to install them. On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the
front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads
into is not
> the same size and dimension as the factory
line(connector). I cannot get
> the SS line into the bracket far
enough to use the retaining clip. Anyone
> else have this
problem? Any suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties
getting the fittings loose even though I am
> using WD-40. I am
afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull on it
> any
harder.
>
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:33:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Michael,
Would a fix like
this help: a couple of extra washers (see pic)? We
needed this for the SMC
lines.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius8/j8-rcaliperline.jpgJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake
lines
I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am
currently
trying to install them. On the rear calipers, I haven't
gotten to
the front calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake
line
threads into is not the same size and dimension as the
factory
line(connector). I cannot get the SS line into the bracket
far
enough to use the retaining clip. Anyone else have this problem?
Any suggestions?
Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings
loose even though
I am using WD-40. I am afraid that I will shoulder
the connector if
I pull on it any harder.
Help please,
Michael D.
Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:30:39
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Sticky
Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)
I have a 91 with Active aero, and sometime
my wing sticks in the up
position. When it works it works well, I can
hear it engage and disengage
at speed, but sometimes the wing stays in the up
position. Any idea what
could be causing it to stick in the up
position? Does it need to be lubed
anywhere or adjusted? I
have tried to turn the active aero switch on and
off to clear it
too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:16:17
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
If you are talking about the
actual brake lines being hard to take
apart, well I feel for you. When
I was taking mine apart to send them
to porterfield, I had the hardest time,
and even using the correct
wrenches and whatnot, still started rounding them
off. What I did was
to buy a REAL good (locking pliers - the name
escapes me right this
second), and clamped it on there with as much force as
possible. Then I
used the correct size wrench on the larger half of the
connector. Talk
about a pain in the ass.
You will need to clean
the factory mounts, as when I was trying to
replace my factory brake lines
into the fitting, I could ~just barely~
get the factory clips back in
place. That is if the porterfields use
the ~exact~ same connector as
factory did. If they didn't use the exact
same connector, maybe try
Jeff L.s solution with washers...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Michael D. Crose
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
I bought the Porterfield stainless
steel brake lines and am currently
trying
to install them. On the
rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the
stock steel brake line threads into is
not
the same size and dimension as
the factory line(connector). I cannot
get
the SS line into the
bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.
Anyone
else have this
problem? Any suggestions?
Also I am having difficulties getting the
fittings loose even though I
am
using WD-40. I am afraid that I
will shoulder the connector if I pull
on it
any harder.
Help
please,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:23:50
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Thanks guys for the quick
replies. This sucks, my car is now imobilized for
at least a few
days. Nothing is ever as easy as it seems even if you plan
ahead; oh
well I enjoy working on my car (not tearing it up) plus I get to
check
everything out and make sure there are no problems.
<Geoff>
I
will take some pictures.
<Jeff>
The line fits into the caliper
fine, it is where the line coming from the
caliper meets the first bracket
that is the problem. The threaded hex
shaped end of the brake line is
about 0.5mm larger than the stock line and
it will not fit into the twelve
point slot on the retaining bracket. If you
look in the service manual
page 35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
retaining clip that holds
the line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
is not shown).
I
have also discovered a tear in one of the front piston dust boots, so I
need
to overhaul the caliper assembly. Is this
difficult?
Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:35:13
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Problems with SS brake lines
If you're getting close to rounding them
off, you also may want to make an
investment in wall drive wrenches.
They grip on the flats of the nut/bolts
and won't round off the corners
allowing you to put more torque on the nut
without rounding it
off.
Greg
cody wrote:
> If you are talking about the actual
brake lines being hard to take
> apart, well I feel for you. When I
was taking mine apart to send them
> to porterfield, I had the hardest
time, and even using the correct
> wrenches and whatnot, still started
rounding them off. What I did was
> to buy a REAL good (locking
pliers - the name escapes me right this
> second), and clamped it on there
with as much force as possible. Then I
> used the correct size
wrench on the larger half of the connector. Talk
> about a pain in
the ass.
>
> You will need to clean the factory mounts, as when I
was trying to
> replace my factory brake lines into the fitting, I could
~just barely~
> get the factory clips back in place. That is if the
porterfields use
> the ~exact~ same connector as factory did. If
they didn't use the exact
> same connector, maybe try Jeff L.s solution
with washers...
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st] On Behalf Of Michael D. Crose
>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
>
> I bought the
Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
> trying
>
to install them. On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the
front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into
is
> not
> the same size and dimension as the factory
line(connector). I cannot
> get
> the SS line into the bracket
far enough to use the retaining clip.
> Anyone
> else have this
problem? Any suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties
getting the fittings loose even though I
> am
> using WD-40. I
am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull
> on it
> any
harder.
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:53:53
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gear Shifting Noise
I have a 91 VR-4 (no mods, 62 K miles) and
occasionally, when I shift to 1st
or reverse, a fraction of a second later, I
hear a thud coming from
somewhere behind me (rear axle??? or
gearbox???).
Can anybody what this is and what the solution
is?
Thanks much,
Edgar
Sunnyvale, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:50:25
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for best car wash
Darren is quite correct on getting down
to the surface. If you just want to
get water spots off, there are a couple
of easy things that work. First
one - use wrinse water with a little
automatic dishwasher anti spot liquid.
Second one - use a wax mister
right after drying the car with towels, a
chamois or whatever. The best
mister I know of (and used by car show
exhibitors quite a bit) is buffaloe
milke. The website for this product is
at
www.buffalomilke.com
and you can read about it there. Mcquires
also makes a mister. Griots garage
sells speedshine with a very good sprayer
and it works well, but not as well
as buffalo milke. Personally I use the
milke. You can do the whole car in
about 15 minutes and it will sparkle like
you won't believe. Good
luck.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:55:31
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I have a '92 VR-4 and I was sent the
(1.0 x 1.0) and the (0.7 x 1.0) bleeder
screws. I turns out that the
(1.0 x 1.0) intended for the front matches and
fit the rear calipers
perfectly. I am now trying to figure out what to do
about the front
because it is a (1.0 x 1.5) and after calling Speedbleeders
I found out that
the (1.0 x 1.0) is the longest they have. The lady I spoke
with said
that many other people have bought them and not had a problem.
Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:59:23
-0500
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for best car wash
I've used Zaino products on my 94 TT on
the recommendation of the previous owner. I have to admit, this is the best
wax/polish product I've ever encountered. Their line includes a pH balanced
wash, and a number of compatible cleaners and polishes (including clay bars and
spray Detailers) that are 100% compatible with one another. Their interior
products are very worthwhile too! As a bonus, NONE of their stuff leaves a white
residue, so it removes wonderfully!
The Zaino website has a fairly
detailed accounting of their products and how to choose/use
them.
Somewhat pricey, but worth every penny to
me!
Craig
Visit:
http://www.zainobros.com/ ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:04:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for best car wash
> Darren is quite correct on getting
down to the surface. If you just want
to get water spots off, there are a
couple of easy things that work. First
one - use wrinse water with a little
automatic dishwasher anti spot liquid.
> Second one - use a wax mister
right after drying the car with towels, a
chamois or whatever. The best
mister I know of (and used by car show
exhibitors quite a bit) is buffaloe
milke. The website for this product is
at
www.buffalomilke.com
and you can read about it there. Mcquires
also makes a mister. Griots garage
sells speedshine with a very good sprayer
and it works well, but not as well
as buffalo milke. Personally I use the
milke. You can do the whole car in
about 15 minutes and it will sparkle like
you won't believe. Good
luck.
> Andy>
- -----------------
We have an entire humongous
page up on our website about professionally
cleaning and detailing your car -
washes, waxes, and cleaning every surface.
It also has links to many of the
cleaning product vendors' websites, and to
another section on repairing paint
chips. It's by Team3S member Gregg
Couture, who does this for a
living... Lots of professional tricks incuded.
It's in the FAQ pages,
under cosmetics:
www.Team3S.com/FAQdetailing.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:16:32
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Indicator Horns
Some SOAB hit the front of the car tonight
cracking the driver's side (I am
on the RHS) indicator horn. Has anyone any
idea as to availability and cost
of a pair of amber indicator horns for a
1995 3000GT UK Spec I guess they
are much cheaper anywhere other than
Ireland:(
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:56:52
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
Mike,
I have Big Reds on my
car (garsh that groan from the crowd is sure enjoyable
sometimes) and had to
get SpeedBleeders for the Porsche brakes to fit the
front. Be lucky
Mike - I had to buy 4 screws just for the Big Reds (they
take 2 each).
Saves you some money right there.
I bought another set of SpeedBleeders
for the rear but made a mistake and
bought the first gen which do not fit the
second gen. How do I know?
Because I tightened them down and pumped the
brake pedal and was losing
fluid. Sure enough ... shooting out the
bleeder screw like Old Faithful.
Good thing I was on an old apartment's
asphalt parking lot.
So I will check out the size I have as they are
absolutely no good to me.
Maybe they are the right size for you. I seem
to think that I have a set of
1.0mm x 1.0 mm as well as a 1.0mm x 0.7 mm set
or something like that. I am
sad I have stock bleed screws in the rear
but I only bleed once a month so
it isn't much of a big deal to
me.
Hope this helps.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds and SpeedBleeders, Autopower rollbar, Sparco
Evo
race seat, Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Crose
[mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:56 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I have a '92 VR-4 and I was sent the
(1.0 x 1.0) and the (0.7 x 1.0) bleeder
screws. I turns out that
the (1.0 x 1.0) intended for the front matches and
fit the rear calipers
perfectly. I am now trying to figure out what to do
about the front
because it is a (1.0 x 1.5) and after calling Speedbleeders
I found out that
the (1.0 x 1.0) is the longest they have. The lady I spoke
with
said that many other people have bought them and not had a problem.
Any suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:59:04
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Wait. I remember the fix
that we did. Everyone is familiar with it. Ready
to chime in with
the answer? 1, 2, 3 ... DREMEL !!!
I remember that we had to Dremel
the hole in that piece a little to get the
round part of the SS lines to fit
through. A file will do the same thing.
Not much needs taken
away. I have this in my pix that people will see.
Sorry I didn't think
of that before.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Michael D. Crose [mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001
4:24 PM
<Jeff>
The line fits into the caliper fine, it is where
the line coming from the
caliper meets the first bracket that is the
problem. The threaded hex
shaped end of the brake line is about 0.5mm
larger than the stock line and
it will not fit into the twelve point slot on
the retaining bracket. If you
look in the service manual page
35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
retaining clip that holds the
line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
is not shown).
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:11:56
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
yes to both on my '94, but not
on any of our '93's, oddly enough. I used a
drill to gore out the
slight amount needed to get the lines in the rear
brackets. Also try
penetrating oil rather than WD40 and let it sit
overnight. Then you may
need to use vice grips. Destroy the end that is
distant from the
caliper, remove the caliper and remove the last connection
on the bench,
because if you break off the connection at the caliper, you
get to buy a new
caliper.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose
[SMTP:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
>
> I bought the
Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
> trying
>
to install them. On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is
not
> the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector). I
cannot get
> the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining
clip. Anyone
>
> else have this problem? Any
suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings
loose even though I am
> using WD-40. I am afraid that I will
shoulder the connector if I pull on
> it
> any harder.
>
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:13:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Yes, unfortunately not every
manufacturer uses a perfectly normal &
standard
D-coupling.
Toyota is a HUGE offender of this on thier 2000+
models. Nothing even
close exists outside Toyota.
On Thu, 24 May
2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> Wait. I remember the fix that
we did. Everyone is familiar with it. Ready
> to chime in with
the answer? 1, 2, 3 ... DREMEL !!!
>
> I remember that we had
to Dremel the hole in that piece a little to get the
> round part of the
SS lines to fit through. A file will do the same thing.
> Not much
needs taken away. I have this in my pix that people will see.
>
Sorry I didn't think of that before.
>
> --Flash!
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose
[mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:24
PM
>
> <Jeff>
> The line fits into the caliper fine, it
is where the line coming from the
> caliper meets the first bracket that
is the problem. The threaded hex
> shaped end of the brake line is
about 0.5mm larger than the stock line and
> it will not fit into the
twelve point slot on the retaining bracket. If you
>
> look
in the service manual page 35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
>
retaining clip that holds the line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
> is not shown).
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:14:34
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: looking for best car wash
Sorry guys - I forgot about the
simple things like hard water, letting
things dry in the hot sun, not drying
or using a chamois cloth. Thanks for
ALL the emails and brain fade
there.
The Team3S list is where I got the information in the first
time. Thanks
for prompting me to remember, Forrest.
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:22:28
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Yes Chuck ... this was the
phrase that scared the living daylights out of me
when I was installing the
Big Reds. There was no way I was going to install
these suckers ($1,500
give or take a case of beer for labor) and ruin them
before getting to use
them. So far so good.
"... Because if you break off the connection
at the caliper, you get to buy
a new caliper."
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Thursday, May
24, 2001 6:12 PM
yes to both on my '94, but not on any of our '93's,
oddly enough. I used a
drill to gore out the slight amount needed to
get the lines in the rear
brackets. Also try penetrating oil rather
than WD40 and let it sit
overnight. Then you may need to use vice
grips. Destroy the end that is
distant from the caliper, remove the
caliper and remove the last connection
on the bench, because if you break off
the connection at the caliper, you
get to buy a new caliper.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:22:59
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
Thanks everyone for the
suggestions. I am going to try the Dremel method as
Darren
mentioned. I am doing all this brake work in hopes of doing my first
open track event this fall.
Thanks again,
Michael D.
Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:24:43
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Problems with SS brake lines
Great --- It'll be nice to have another
racer on board.
Now if Geoff will set up that race group list that
we talked
about months ago [ hint, hint ] we can swap lies without incurring
the
wrath of the tech gods.
Jim Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Michael D. Crose <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
> Thanks
everyone for the suggestions.
> I am doing all this brake work in
hopes of doing my first
> open track event this fall.
>
>
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 23:57:28
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read
Well, the article I
wrote, and Bob F added pictures and a few points to,
is now up on the Team3S
Webpage for all to read.
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htm And
scroll down to the Tires and Wheels Section.
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:22:53
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To
Read
<excerpt>Cody:
</excerpt><<<<<<<<
In
your article, you say:
On an AWD car, it is generally recommended to stay
with all 4 tires equal
no matter what. Our AWD cars are prone to
understeer more than anything,
and wider tires in the rear will quickly make
an AWD car understeer even
worse. Also, the 3/S AWD system is such that
constant variances in the
rolling diameter of the front versus the rear
wheels will quickly heat up
and possibly cause the center vicious coupling to
fail.
My local nemesis is a twin turbo TT AWD Porsche, and he runs
different
tire sizes front and rear. The rears are much larger than the
fronts,
both in tire height and width. He says no problem, and doesn't
understand
all the fuss with our cars.
Can you (or anyone else)
explain how those German Edsels get away with
it?
Rich/old
poop
>>>>
<excerpt>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:35:46
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read
Not knowing too
much about Porshes, I can only think of two things - one
is that they are
designed to have different tire sizes front/rear, and
that however the power
is split under the car, it has some sort of ratio
as to where it spins the
fronts more than the rears all the time, thus
equaling things out. The
other thing I can think of is that they are
more like the Lambos in that they
are Rear Drive primarily, yet transfer
power to the front under less than
optimal traction conditions. Hell _
I don't know I'm just
rambling now. and hopefully, someone else knows
how they work better
than I do.
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 12:23 AM
To: cody; Team3S;
Starnet
Subject: Re: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To
Read
Cody:
<<<<
In your article, you say:
On
an AWD car, it is generally recommended to stay with all 4 tires
equal no
matter what. Our AWD cars are prone to understeer more than
anything, and
wider tires in the rear will quickly make an AWD car
understeer even worse.
Also, the 3/S AWD system is such that constant
variances in the rolling
diameter of the front versus the rear wheels
will quickly heat up and
possibly cause the center vicious coupling to
fail.
My local nemesis
is a twin turbo TT AWD Porsche, and he runs different
tire sizes front and
rear. The rears are much larger than the fronts,
both in tire height and
width. He says no problem, and doesn't
understand all the fuss with our cars.
Can you (or anyone else) explain how those German Edsels get away
with
it?
Rich/old poop
>>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 07:54:15
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Emission test
How is an emissions test run on our car? On
my way to work I saw a "normal"
car sitting in a garage with what looked like
a wet/dry vacuum hose hooked
up to the tailpipe (that 2" plastic,
accordion-type snake hose).
For our cars with dual exhaust tips do they
hook up two hoses to the machine
or block off one set of exhausts? I'm
guessing that they only care the
results after the cats so just one side
would work.
I have seen cars with true dual exhausts on them (aftermarket
add-ons) and I
suppose the emissions folks notice this when the car is up on
the lift? But
since only at a certain rpm or pressure does anything
come out of the
right-side exhaust tips (I don't know if RHD cars are
backwards on the
exhaust too) then both sides might need monitored to get
accurate readings.
Do people with Active Exhausts know to tell the
emissions folks that half of
their exhaust is shut off and that is why they
are failing or something?
Just curious.
- --Flash!
No Active
Exhaust but 4 stock exhaust tips from 2 stock mufflers and 1 stock
exhaust
pipe
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#502
*********************
