team3s              Friday, May 25 2001              Volume 01 : Number 502




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:20:39 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: looking for best car wash

I am looking for the best car wash for my 1997 VR-4, which I had repainted
with PPG Metallic paint about a year ago.  Someone told me about Mcquires
Gold Class Car Wash, but none of the local stores carry it.

I used to use Zymol Car wash, but can't find that locally either.

We have a problem with hard water in my area, and most washes cause water
spots.  I tried Zymol Clear Auto Bath, and got water spots.

Any suggestions ?  Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:42:48 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: looking for best car wash

Anthony,

I don't think it is so much the car wash as it is the car washER.

Many times one step to get down to good paint surfaces is to wash the car
with a dishwashing detergent (such as Dawn) to get off all the oxidized wax
layers.  Using a clay bar may also work (Mother's, McGuire's, etc.)  Or just
use their system (Mother's has about 5, McGuire's has about the same, and 3M
has a bazillion (lots of scratch remedy bottles included in that)) to remove
oxidized paint, resurface, re-wax, and add a final polish.

Using a stiff brush may add swirl marks no matter what you use.

I like the Mother's line but that is only from an online article about
exterior 3/S car care I read when I bought my car.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:21 PM
To: Team 3S List Submissions; 3000GT List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: looking for best car wash

I am looking for the best car wash for my 1997 VR-4, which I had repainted
with PPG Metallic paint about a year ago.  Someone told me about Mcquires
Gold Class Car Wash, but none of the local stores carry it.

I used to use Zymol Car wash, but can't find that locally either.

We have a problem with hard water in my area, and most washes cause water
spots.  I tried Zymol Clear Auto Bath, and got water spots.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:24:34 -0700
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: 97 RT/10 for sale

A bit off topic, but perhaps someone on Team3S is ripe for
a step up.

Rich
Wishing he had the $$
- -----------------------------------------------------------
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: FW: 97 RT/10 for sale
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:08:02 -0700
From: "Retych, James" <James.Retych@metawave.com>
To: "Rich Leroy (E-mail)" <rleroy@pacifier.com>

Hi Rich,

Don't know if anyone from the Stealth/3000 group
might be interested in getting a Viper but here
are some details on this RT/10.

It is a 97 which was the first year with...
- - 450 hp Gen II motor
- - Power windows
- - Door handles
- - Locking rear window
- - Hardtop that doesn't require removing sports bar.
- - Rear exhaust  (actually this started in 96 but it doesn't burn your
legs
like mine)

There were less than 300 RT/10s made in 1997 due to the changes. There
were
52 Blue w/white stripes produced, of which only 33 were sold to the
public
and this color was not produced in any other year!

This is a rare car at a very good price, we have a member who is
collecting
rare Vipers and paid $73k for this combination last year, and it didn't
include the hardtop! There are 2 of these cars in the Washington
chapter,
none in the Oregon chapter of the VCA.

Please pass the information along to anyone that may be interested in a
car
that isn't going to depreciate very much and will certainly be a lot of
fun!

James

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bombacie_Mike@emc.com [mailto:Bombacie_Mike@emc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:40 AM
To: James.Retych@metawave.com
Subject: RE: 97 RT/10 for sale


17,500 easy miles!!!! for more pics, go to
:<http://www.motus1.com/html/4sale/viper

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Retych, James [SMTP:James.Retych@metawave.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 3:46 PM
> To: 'Bombacie_Mike@emc.com'
> Subject: RE: 97 RT/10 for sale
>
> How many miles?
>
> Subject: 97 RT/10 for sale
>
>
> HI ALL,
> I have decided to lower the price on my Blue/white RT/10 to $55k. If
> you know of anyone looking for a sweet ride this summer, please give me a
> call. Picture attached.
> Thanx, MIKE
> 425-576-1211 home
> 425-748-3267 work
>  <<viper_side.jpg>>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:08:48 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently trying
to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is not
the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot get
the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.  Anyone
else have this problem?  Any suggestions?

Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I am
using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull on it
any harder.


Help please,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:13:58 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

I have some pix of my Goodridge SS line install so if anybody wants them
just email me.

All I can say for the connectors (the flat spring metal pieces where one
line connects to another) is that lots of WD-40 over the course of a week
helped to loosen the 6 years of gunk and rust.

And I hope everyone who is doing this has a set of brake line wrenches (11mm
and 13mm I think).  NAPA stores have a set that covers 10- and 12-mm, 11-
and 13-mm, and 12- and 14-mm wrenches I think.  I have a pic of those in
action and boy are they handy.  About $10-$15 for the set.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Crose [mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 3:09 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently trying

to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is not
the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot get
the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.  Anyone
else have this problem?  Any suggestions?

Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I am
using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull on it

any harder.


Help please,
Michael D. Crose


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:42:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Can you take some photos somehow?

On Thu, 24 May 2001, Michael D. Crose wrote:

> I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently trying
> to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is not
> the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot get
> the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.  Anyone
> else have this problem?  Any suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I am
> using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull on it
> any harder.
>
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:33:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Michael,

Would a fix like this help: a couple of extra washers (see pic)? We
needed this for the SMC lines.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius8/j8-rcaliperline.jpg

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
trying to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to
the front calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line
threads into is not the same size and dimension as the factory
line(connector).  I cannot get the SS line into the bracket far
enough to use the retaining clip.  Anyone else have this problem?
Any suggestions?

Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though
I am using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if
I pull on it any harder.

Help please,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:30:39 -0400
From: Steve Petry <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Sticky Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)

I have a 91 with Active aero, and sometime my wing sticks in the up
position.  When it works it works well, I can hear it engage and disengage
at speed, but sometimes the wing stays in the up position.  Any idea what
could be causing it to stick in the up position?   Does it need to be lubed
anywhere or adjusted?  I have tried to turn the active aero switch on and
off to clear it too.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:16:17 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

If you are talking about the actual brake lines being hard to take
apart, well I feel for you.  When I was taking mine apart to send them
to porterfield, I had the hardest time, and even using the correct
wrenches and whatnot, still started rounding them off.  What I did was
to buy a REAL good (locking pliers - the name escapes me right this
second), and clamped it on there with as much force as possible.  Then I
used the correct size wrench on the larger half of the connector.  Talk
about a pain in the ass.

You will need to clean the factory mounts, as when I was trying to
replace my factory brake lines into the fitting, I could ~just barely~
get the factory clips back in place.  That is if the porterfields use
the ~exact~ same connector as factory did.  If they didn't use the exact
same connector, maybe try Jeff L.s solution with washers... 

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st] On Behalf Of Michael D. Crose
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
trying
to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is
not
the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot
get
the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.
Anyone
else have this problem?  Any suggestions?

Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I
am
using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull
on it
any harder.


Help please,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:23:50 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Thanks guys for the quick replies.  This sucks, my car is now imobilized for
at least a few days.  Nothing is ever as easy as it seems even if you plan
ahead; oh well I enjoy working on my car (not tearing it up) plus I get to
check everything out and make sure there are no problems.

<Geoff>
I will take some pictures.

<Jeff>
The line fits into the caliper fine, it is where the line coming from the
caliper meets the first bracket that is the problem.  The threaded hex
shaped end of the brake line is about 0.5mm larger than the stock line and
it will not fit into the twelve point slot on the retaining bracket.  If you
look in the service manual page 35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
retaining clip that holds the line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
is not shown).

I have also discovered a tear in one of the front piston dust boots, so I
need to overhaul the caliper assembly.  Is this difficult?

Thanks,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:35:13 -0500
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

If you're getting close to rounding them off, you also may want to make an
investment in wall drive wrenches.  They grip on the flats of the nut/bolts
and won't round off the corners allowing you to put more torque on the nut
without rounding it off.

Greg

cody wrote:
> If you are talking about the actual brake lines being hard to take
> apart, well I feel for you.  When I was taking mine apart to send them
> to porterfield, I had the hardest time, and even using the correct
> wrenches and whatnot, still started rounding them off.  What I did was
> to buy a REAL good (locking pliers - the name escapes me right this
> second), and clamped it on there with as much force as possible.  Then I
> used the correct size wrench on the larger half of the connector.  Talk
> about a pain in the ass.
>
> You will need to clean the factory mounts, as when I was trying to
> replace my factory brake lines into the fitting, I could ~just barely~
> get the factory clips back in place.  That is if the porterfields use
> the ~exact~ same connector as factory did.  If they didn't use the exact
> same connector, maybe try Jeff L.s solution with washers...
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st] On Behalf Of Michael D. Crose
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
>
> I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
> trying
> to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is
> not
> the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot
> get
> the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.
> Anyone
> else have this problem?  Any suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I
> am
> using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull
> on it
> any harder.
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:53:53 -0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Gear Shifting Noise

I have a 91 VR-4 (no mods, 62 K miles) and occasionally, when I shift to 1st
or reverse, a fraction of a second later, I hear a thud coming from
somewhere behind me (rear axle??? or gearbox???).

Can anybody what this is and what the solution is?

Thanks much,

Edgar
Sunnyvale, CA

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:50:25 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: looking for best car wash

Darren is quite correct on getting down to the surface. If you just want to
get water spots off, there are a couple of easy things that work. First
one - use wrinse water with a little automatic dishwasher anti spot liquid.

Second one - use a wax mister right after drying the car with towels, a
chamois or whatever. The best mister I know of (and used by car show
exhibitors quite a bit) is buffaloe milke. The website for this product is
at www.buffalomilke.com        and you can read about it there. Mcquires
also makes a mister. Griots garage sells speedshine with a very good sprayer
and it works well, but not as well as buffalo milke. Personally I use the
milke. You can do the whole car in about 15 minutes and it will sparkle like
you won't believe. Good luck.

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:55:31 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting

I have a '92 VR-4 and I was sent the (1.0 x 1.0) and the (0.7 x 1.0) bleeder
screws.  I turns out that the (1.0 x 1.0) intended for the front matches and
fit the rear calipers perfectly.  I am now trying to figure out what to do
about the front because it is a (1.0 x 1.5) and after calling Speedbleeders
I found out that the (1.0 x 1.0) is the longest they have.  The lady I spoke
with said that many other people have bought them and not had a problem. 
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:59:23 -0500
From: "Craig Golema" <CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: looking for best car wash

I've used Zaino products on my 94 TT on the recommendation of the previous owner. I have to admit, this is the best wax/polish product I've ever encountered. Their line includes a pH balanced wash, and a number of compatible cleaners and polishes (including clay bars and spray Detailers) that are 100% compatible with one another. Their interior products are very worthwhile too! As a bonus, NONE of their stuff leaves a white residue, so it removes wonderfully!

The Zaino website has a fairly detailed accounting of their products and how to choose/use them.

Somewhat pricey, but worth every penny to me!

Craig

Visit:  http://www.zainobros.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:04:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: looking for best car wash

> Darren is quite correct on getting down to the surface. If you just want
to get water spots off, there are a couple of easy things that work. First
one - use wrinse water with a little automatic dishwasher anti spot liquid.
> Second one - use a wax mister right after drying the car with towels, a
chamois or whatever. The best mister I know of (and used by car show
exhibitors quite a bit) is buffaloe milke. The website for this product is
at www.buffalomilke.com        and you can read about it there. Mcquires
also makes a mister. Griots garage sells speedshine with a very good sprayer
and it works well, but not as well as buffalo milke. Personally I use the
milke. You can do the whole car in about 15 minutes and it will sparkle like
you won't believe. Good luck.
> Andy>
- -----------------

We have an entire humongous page up on our website about professionally
cleaning and detailing your car - washes, waxes, and cleaning every surface.
It also has links to many of the cleaning product vendors' websites, and to
another section on repairing paint chips.  It's by Team3S member Gregg
Couture, who does this for a living...  Lots of professional tricks incuded.
It's in the FAQ pages, under cosmetics:
www.Team3S.com/FAQdetailing.htm

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:16:32 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Indicator Horns

Some SOAB hit the front of the car tonight cracking the driver's side (I am
on the RHS) indicator horn. Has anyone any idea as to availability and cost
of a pair of amber indicator horns for a 1995 3000GT UK Spec I guess they
are much cheaper anywhere other than Ireland:(

- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions Ltd

eMail:                 george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Office:                 +44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail:  +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice Mail:   +44 (0) 87 0831 4052
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:56:52 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting

Mike,

I have Big Reds on my car (garsh that groan from the crowd is sure enjoyable
sometimes) and had to get SpeedBleeders for the Porsche brakes to fit the
front.  Be lucky Mike - I had to buy 4 screws just for the Big Reds (they
take 2 each).  Saves you some money right there.

I bought another set of SpeedBleeders for the rear but made a mistake and
bought the first gen which do not fit the second gen.  How do I know?
Because I tightened them down and pumped the brake pedal and was losing
fluid.  Sure enough ... shooting out the bleeder screw like Old Faithful.
Good thing I was on an old apartment's asphalt parking lot.

So I will check out the size I have as they are absolutely no good to me.
Maybe they are the right size for you.  I seem to think that I have a set of
1.0mm x 1.0 mm as well as a 1.0mm x 0.7 mm set or something like that.  I am
sad I have stock bleed screws in the rear but I only bleed once a month so
it isn't much of a big deal to me.

Hope this helps.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds and SpeedBleeders, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo
race seat, Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Crose [mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:56 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting

I have a '92 VR-4 and I was sent the (1.0 x 1.0) and the (0.7 x 1.0) bleeder

screws.  I turns out that the (1.0 x 1.0) intended for the front matches and

fit the rear calipers perfectly.  I am now trying to figure out what to do
about the front because it is a (1.0 x 1.5) and after calling Speedbleeders
I found out that the (1.0 x 1.0) is the longest they have.  The lady I spoke

with said that many other people have bought them and not had a problem. 
Any suggestions?


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:59:04 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Wait.  I remember the fix that we did.  Everyone is familiar with it.  Ready
to chime in with the answer?  1, 2, 3 ... DREMEL !!!

I remember that we had to Dremel the hole in that piece a little to get the
round part of the SS lines to fit through.  A file will do the same thing.
Not much needs taken away.  I have this in my pix that people will see.
Sorry I didn't think of that before.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Crose [mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:24 PM

<Jeff>
The line fits into the caliper fine, it is where the line coming from the
caliper meets the first bracket that is the problem.  The threaded hex
shaped end of the brake line is about 0.5mm larger than the stock line and
it will not fit into the twelve point slot on the retaining bracket.  If you

look in the service manual page 35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
retaining clip that holds the line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
is not shown).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:11:56 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

yes to both on my '94, but not on any of our '93's, oddly enough.  I used a
drill to gore out the slight amount needed to get the lines in the rear
brackets.  Also try penetrating oil rather than WD40 and let it sit
overnight.  Then you may need to use vice grips.  Destroy the end that is
distant from the caliper, remove the caliper and remove the last connection
on the bench, because if you break off the connection at the caliper, you
get to buy a new caliper.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose [SMTP:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines
>
> I bought the Porterfield stainless steel brake lines and am currently
> trying
> to install them.  On the rear calipers, I haven't gotten to the front
> calipers, the housing that the stock steel brake line threads into is not
> the same size and dimension as the factory line(connector).  I cannot get
> the SS line into the bracket far enough to use the retaining clip.  Anyone
>
> else have this problem?  Any suggestions?
>
> Also I am having difficulties getting the fittings loose even though I am
> using WD-40.  I am afraid that I will shoulder the connector if I pull on
> it
> any harder.
>
>
> Help please,
> Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:13:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Yes, unfortunately not every manufacturer uses a perfectly normal &
standard D-coupling.


Toyota is a HUGE offender of this on thier 2000+ models.  Nothing even
close exists outside Toyota.

On Thu, 24 May 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:

> Wait.  I remember the fix that we did.  Everyone is familiar with it.  Ready
> to chime in with the answer?  1, 2, 3 ... DREMEL !!!
>
> I remember that we had to Dremel the hole in that piece a little to get the
> round part of the SS lines to fit through.  A file will do the same thing.
> Not much needs taken away.  I have this in my pix that people will see.
> Sorry I didn't think of that before.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Crose [mailto:ncsu4me@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:24 PM
>
> <Jeff>
> The line fits into the caliper fine, it is where the line coming from the
> caliper meets the first bracket that is the problem.  The threaded hex
> shaped end of the brake line is about 0.5mm larger than the stock line and
> it will not fit into the twelve point slot on the retaining bracket.  If you
>
> look in the service manual page 35-103 for the AWD picture, you can see the
> retaining clip that holds the line in the bracket at number 1 (the bracket
> is not shown).

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:14:34 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: looking for best car wash

Sorry guys - I forgot about the simple things like hard water, letting
things dry in the hot sun, not drying or using a chamois cloth.  Thanks for
ALL the emails and brain fade there.

The Team3S list is where I got the information in the first time.  Thanks
for prompting me to remember, Forrest.

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:22:28 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Yes Chuck ... this was the phrase that scared the living daylights out of me
when I was installing the Big Reds.  There was no way I was going to install
these suckers ($1,500 give or take a case of beer for labor) and ruin them
before getting to use them.  So far so good.

"... Because if you break off the connection at the caliper, you get to buy
a new caliper."

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 6:12 PM

yes to both on my '94, but not on any of our '93's, oddly enough.  I used a
drill to gore out the slight amount needed to get the lines in the rear
brackets.  Also try penetrating oil rather than WD40 and let it sit
overnight.  Then you may need to use vice grips.  Destroy the end that is
distant from the caliper, remove the caliper and remove the last connection
on the bench, because if you break off the connection at the caliper, you
get to buy a new caliper.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:22:59 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.  I am going to try the Dremel method as
Darren mentioned.  I am doing all this brake work in hopes of doing my first
open track event this fall.

Thanks again,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:24:43 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with SS brake lines

Great --- It'll be nice to have another racer on board.

Now  if Geoff will set up that race group list that we talked
about months ago [ hint, hint ] we can swap lies without incurring the
wrath of the tech gods.

        Jim Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D. Crose <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>

> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. 
> I am doing all this brake work in hopes of doing my first
> open track event this fall.
>
> Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 23:57:28 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read

Well, the article I wrote, and Bob F added pictures and a few points to,
is now up on the Team3S Webpage for all to read.
 
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ.htm
 
And scroll down to the Tires and Wheels Section.
 
- -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:22:53 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read

<excerpt>Cody:


</excerpt><<<<<<<<

In your article, you say:

On an AWD car, it is generally recommended to stay with all 4 tires equal
no matter what.  Our AWD cars are prone to understeer more than anything,
and wider tires in the rear will quickly make an AWD car understeer even
worse.  Also, the 3/S AWD system is such that constant variances in the
rolling diameter of the front versus the rear wheels will quickly heat up
and possibly cause the center vicious coupling to fail.


My local nemesis is a twin turbo TT AWD Porsche, and he runs different
tire sizes front and rear. The rears are much larger than the fronts,
both in tire height and width. He says no problem, and doesn't understand
all the fuss with our cars.

Can you (or anyone else) explain how those German Edsels get away with
it?


Rich/old poop

>>>>

<excerpt>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:35:46 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read

Not knowing too much about Porshes, I can only think of two things - one
is that they are designed to have different tire sizes front/rear, and
that however the power is split under the car, it has some sort of ratio
as to where it spins the fronts more than the rears all the time, thus
equaling things out.  The other thing I can think of is that they are
more like the Lambos in that they are Rear Drive primarily, yet transfer
power to the front under less than optimal traction conditions.  Hell _
I don't know  I'm just rambling now.  and hopefully, someone else knows
how they work better than I do.
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st] On Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 12:23 AM
To: cody; Team3S; Starnet
Subject: Re: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read
 
Cody:
<<<<
In your article, you say:
On an AWD car, it is generally recommended to stay with all 4 tires
equal no matter what. Our AWD cars are prone to understeer more than
anything, and wider tires in the rear will quickly make an AWD car
understeer even worse. Also, the 3/S AWD system is such that constant
variances in the rolling diameter of the front versus the rear wheels
will quickly heat up and possibly cause the center vicious coupling to
fail.

My local nemesis is a twin turbo TT AWD Porsche, and he runs different
tire sizes front and rear. The rears are much larger than the fronts,
both in tire height and width. He says no problem, and doesn't
understand all the fuss with our cars.
Can you (or anyone else) explain how those German Edsels get away with
it?
Rich/old poop
>>>>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 07:54:15 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: Team3S: Emission test

How is an emissions test run on our car?  On my way to work I saw a "normal"
car sitting in a garage with what looked like a wet/dry vacuum hose hooked
up to the tailpipe (that 2" plastic, accordion-type snake hose).

For our cars with dual exhaust tips do they hook up two hoses to the machine
or block off one set of exhausts?  I'm guessing that they only care the
results after the cats so just one side would work.

I have seen cars with true dual exhausts on them (aftermarket add-ons) and I
suppose the emissions folks notice this when the car is up on the lift?  But
since only at a certain rpm or pressure does anything come out of the
right-side exhaust tips (I don't know if RHD cars are backwards on the
exhaust too) then both sides might need monitored to get accurate readings.

Do people with Active Exhausts know to tell the emissions folks that half of
their exhaust is shut off and that is why they are failing or something?
Just curious.

- --Flash!
No Active Exhaust but 4 stock exhaust tips from 2 stock mufflers and 1 stock
exhaust pipe

dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines, Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #502
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