team3s
Monday, May 7
2001
Volume 01 : Number
485
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 May 2001 13:48:19 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: CF Hood
Geoff,
Hey, you said CF hoods were bad, too much
flex. Sandbagger.
Are you getting one from GTPro? I was going to try
for one to use at Willow but funds and time ran out before the Apr 28-29
event.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 7:06
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Some new videos
http://speedracer.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/baermost
are in the RX7..there are some MR-Spyder ones however.
This was at the
Baer Brake day at Buttonwillow a few weeks ago.
The RX-7 should show up
on Popular Hot Rod TV soon..
Team3s Content:
VR4 is still down.
CF
hood seems "close" to delivery
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 09:52:32
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Water in Engine Bay
Hi all,
I'm planning on taking some time to
clean my engine bay this weekend and
want to know what components I should
cover / protect before cleaning
the engine bay. I'm not going to use a
pressure washer or anything like
that ... and don't have access to a steam
cleaning facility, I'm just
planning on using some Simple Green and a low
pressure small stream of
water. Thanks in advance for any
advice.
Greg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:28:11
-0400 (EDT)
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Locking Lugnut Key Lock for VR4 needed
Everyone,
Does anyone have
a locking lugnut key (6 point star shaped) from their VR4
that they do not
need anymore? Maybe some of you have replaced the
locking lugnuts on
your 18" rims with regular ones. I have a 95 VR4,
however, I do not
think the year matters. The part number is A990WL3C01.
I lost mine and
I need to take the rims off.
http://mercury.cs.wayne.edu/~iraicu/personal/pictures/images/VR4tires/rims/new_rim.jpg(picture
of rim with locking lugnut for which I need key)
I hope I won't have a
flat tire in the meantime.
Respond privately please.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Westland, MI
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:07:57
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Kumho 245/40ZR18 fixed my woes
Well, now I can't believe that I
was driving around on these stupid
225/40R18 tires for as long as I did. I
purchased a set of Kumho 245/40ZR18
from Tire Rack and had them installed
yesterday. My car is finally driving
the way it should. The 225 tires on the
stock chrome rims not only look
terrible, but they were very unsafe as the
car would pull to either the
right or left depending on road variations. Also
managed to bend 2 rims with
the 225 size installed. The only reason that I
got them in the first place
was that I was enrooted back home and they were
the only 18" tires I could
find in or around Colby, KS.
Tires are
everything. I'd rather have proper tire fitment than additional
horsepower
any day of the week.
Pretty quiet on the list today. Everybody must be
enjoying the outdoors.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:35:24
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Unequal tire sizes
Hello folks.
I have an opportunity to pick up
two 245x40x17 Michelin Pilot Sport with zr
ratings for $10.00.
I need
to know if they will work as front tires with my current Dunlap
245x45x17 zr
rated rear tires.
I know that on a two wheel drive car there would be no
problem. But, my 93
Stealth is AWD and I am not sure if it will be a problem
or not. The only
difference I can see is the sidewall height and it is only 5
millimeters
difference. I don't even think it would make the headlights aim
lower.
Your help and comments will be most appreciated.
Andy
Woll
93 FSRed Stealth, TT, AWD.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 06:41:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 93 stealth sohc computer
Kristie,
What are your
symptoms of an ECU "on the verge of going bad". Also,
what tests have you
performed to confirm an ECU malfunction? Thanks.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
kristie1@thesimpsons.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 03, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Team3S: 93 stealth sohc
computer
Does anybody have a 93 ecu for a sohc stealth for sale. Mine is
on
the verge of going bad, and I want to replace it soon.
Also, could
someone help me out, I got swapped to the digest version
on
accident..;)
Thanks
Kristie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 15:39:39
EDT
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Unequal tire sizes
It's not only a 5mm difference. The 45 in the
middle means 45% of the 245mm
is the sidewall height. The 245 is both
sidewall heights + the tread width.
So your sidewall height on the
245/40zr17's is 98mm, and the sidewall height
on the 245/45zr17's is
110.25mm. So you're talking a good 12+ mm of
difference (that's half
an inch!). I would say you shouldn't install that
type of setup on an
awd car. I would still buy the tires though, that's a
steal - you
could easily re-sell them for more.
- -Steve
'92 Stealth R/T NA, Firestorm
Red
In a message dated 5/6/01 2:13:49 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
awoll1@pacbell.net
writes:
<< I have an opportunity to pick up two 245x40x17 Michelin
Pilot Sport with zr
ratings for $10.00.
I need to
know if they will work as front tires with my current Dunlap
245x45x17
zr rated rear tires.
I know that on a two wheel drive car
there would be no problem. But, my 93
Stealth is AWD and I am not sure
if it will be a problem or not. The only
difference I can see is the
sidewall height and it is only 5 millimeters
difference. I don't even
think it would make the headlights aim lower. >>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:39:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin: List, Website hiccups...
In case you all haven't figured it out
already, the Team3S list and websites
have been experiencing "growing pains"
since Geoff switched us to faster
servers. Geoff & Nissa are racing
all weekend, so he'll finish final
tweaking on Monday. It also appears
that we still have DNS problems that
are not necessarily within our control -
we had to file some changes and the
Domain servers are taking their time in
updating for some reason... Geoff
will bring us all up to date when
they return with all their trophys and
race reports. :-)
As of
this moment, the main website,
www.Team3S.com appears to be working
again,
but the older, mirror website,
www.stealth-3000gt.st is pointing
to
Geoff's speedtoys videos page. That's a simple fix that will take
place
tomorrow, too.
Thanks for your patience...
The
Admins
www.Team3S.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 19:33:11
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Serpintine Belt replacement HELP!
Alright I am in a jam now. I
have taken off that cover that takes forever to
take off and now I am
looking at the serpentine belts and dont have a clue
as how to get them
off.
I saw it on a website once but I dont remember..
HELP!!! please
:-)
Greg G
92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 16:40:16
-0400
From: "Adam M. Kuhn" <
amkuhn@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Looking to upgrade
I have a question for the group. I
currently own a 95 3000GT Base and am
looking to upgrade to a Stealth R/T
Twin Turbo, want to know what year I
should be looking at, looking for the
best overall for options/horsepower.
And, what would be a good price for the
year recommended. I am currently in
the Philadelphia, PA area and
looking to upgrade in the next 6 months. I
recently moved to the area
so don't know any good contacts in the area to
find the car. Would you
recommend buying from a dealer as opposed to a
private seller or does it
matter, what should I look at (or have the
mechanic look at) specifically
when looking at the vehicle. For those of
you that have driven a NA and
a Turbo, what will I notice as the biggest
difference. One more thing,
I currently have a K&N FIPK brand new in the
box, should I install it in
my car or wait for the turbo. Thanks for your
help!
You can
email me privately with your help if you prefer!
Adam Kuhn
amkuhn@earthlink.net1995 Caracas Red
3000GT Base
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:05:11
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Serpintine Belt replacement HELP!
>>Alright I am in a
jam now. I have taken off that cover that takes forever
to
>>take
off and now I am looking at the serpentine belts and dont have a
clue
>>as how to get them off.
>>I saw it on a website
once but I dont remember..
>>HELP!!! please :-)
>>Greg
G
>>92 RT TT
Well in short, you need to align the camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft
sprocket to their respective timing marks. Then
you need to loosen the
tensioner pulley which will slack the belt allowing
you to remove it.
Do you have the service manual? If not I suggest not
going any further till
you get one.
Here's the page I think you were
talking about.
http://www.team3s.com/60k.htmHowever
depending on your confidence in your own mechanical ability, I
wouldn't
solely rely on that page.
It would be good for you to have the info from that
page alongside a service
manual if this is your first time doing
this.
BTW, I just finished replacing my timing belt and water pump (my
first time
too) and can say that having the service manual helped me a
lot.
Regards,
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:04:41
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Mazda Miata Questions
Hi All.
I drove a Mazda
Miata for the first time today. The one I drove was a '95. I am
absolutely in love with the car. Not for the same reasons I am in love
with my 3000GT of course, its an entire different animal, and is very
surprising. I always thought of a Miata as an econo-box much like the
lower end Civics.
Regardless, I am ~possibly~ thinking of
purchasing one to drive around town, and possibly in the future - autocross or
race road course (SCCA?) with. I'm not too familiar with either of the
above, so I would probably want to drive in the showroom stock class - thats
SCCA right? Regardless - who out there owns one? What years are
good/bad. I know the newer ones are pretty nice looking (almost rx-7ish),
but I want one cheaper, so that if I do decide to get into racing and something
happens to it, I'm not out too terribly much. What is anyones experience
out there with these cars?
All I really know was about 6 hours
worth of driving around in one. I can tell they are light, pretty agile,
and fairly powerful in the higher revs. (for as light and small of a
car).
Any other info anyone would like to give me would be of
great help. As this doesn't pertain to 3/S cars themselves, I'll remind
you to please respond privately to
overclck@starband.netGeoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:20:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
[Admin] Re: Team3S: OT: Recommendations for a clutch on an RX-7??
Sorry
for the off topic response.
This is a Stealth/3000GT list.
Try an
RX-7 list please.
On Fri, 4 May 2001, Michael D. Crose wrote:
>
Sorry for the off topic post but I know some of you have RX-7's. My buddy
> has a '94 and he needs to get a clutch. He doesn't plan on doing
too many
> mods to his car but does plan to increase power a little
bit. What clutches
> would you recommend?
>
>
Thanks,
> Michael D. Crose
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:24:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Unequal tire sizes
> I have an opportunity to pick up two
245x40x17 Michelin Pilot Sport with zr
> ratings for $10.00.
>
> I need to know if they will work as front tires with my current
Dunlap
> 245x45x17 zr rated rear tires.
- ---
You already know the
answer..dont do it. :^)
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:25:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Unequal tire sizes
Also..the car will drive kinda odd..one
type of tire will stick/act
differently than the other.
On Sun, 6 May
2001
StevePKT77@aol.com
wrote:
> It's not only a 5mm difference. The 45 in the middle
means 45% of the 245mm
> is the sidewall height. The 245 is both
sidewall heights + the tread width.
> So your sidewall height on
the 245/40zr17's is 98mm, and the sidewall height
> on the 245/45zr17's
is 110.25mm. So you're talking a good 12+ mm of
> difference
(that's half an inch!). I would say you shouldn't install that
>
type of setup on an awd car. I would still buy the tires though, that's a
> steal - you could easily re-sell them for more.
> -Steve
>
'92 Stealth R/T NA, Firestorm Red
>
>
> In a message dated
5/6/01 2:13:49 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>
awoll1@pacbell.net writes:
>
>
<< I have an opportunity to pick up two 245x40x17 Michelin Pilot Sport
with zr
> ratings for $10.00.
>
> I need to
know if they will work as front tires with my current Dunlap
>
245x45x17 zr rated rear tires.
>
> I know that on a two
wheel drive car there would be no problem. But, my 93
> Stealth is
AWD and I am not sure if it will be a problem or not. The only
>
difference I can see is the sidewall height and it is only 5
millimeters
> difference. I don't even think it would make the
headlights aim lower. >>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 21:04:10
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Looking to upgrade
Adam,
To answer a few of your questions .... In
the Stealth R/T TT, the best year for
options and horse power is the
1994. It is the last year with all the Bells and
Whistles and has the
full 320 HP of all the 2nd Gen. Stealth TTs. In 1995-1996
model years,
quite a few of the option parts were dropped off the car because
Dodge knew
it was going to be discontinued, but the 1995-1996 cars do have the
full 320
HP and AWS and AWD that make the car what it really is. Prior to
1994,
the Stealth TTs were only 300 HP and had the pop-up headlights and a
variety of
different options depending on the year.
For used cars I
personally like to buy cars from private owners because you
generally
negotiate a better price than you can through a dealer. The
private
owner definitely wants to sell the car, whereas the dealer wants to
sell the
car, but only if they get their price .... the dealer is less likely
to
negotiate than a private owner. Plus, by buying from the owner you
can ask a
series of questions designed to find out how the car was driven and
how it was
taken care of ... which is valuable information for setting the
price and
knowing what the car is really worth. Most dealers will not
be able to give you
that info. first hand or they may just tell you what you
want to hear.
I have driven both a NA and Turbo Stealth, and while the
NAs (particularly the
R/Ts) have a lot of get up and go, it is NOTHING like
the push you back in the
seat power of the TT. I've driven a lot of car
in my day and without question
the Stealth R/T TT is the best handling,
fastest and most agile car I've ever
owned. I highly recommend
it.
And finally ... wait for the TT to install your FIPK. The FIPK
will help the NA
car some, perhaps the Turbo would benefit a little more, BUT
my real rationale
is that why invest the time and expensive of installing the
FIPK just to give it
to someone else. Plus, if you do end up
selling or trading in your car to a
dealer, they may assume that you added
the FIPK because you wanted to race your
Base and that may hurt your re-sale
value, even though we all know that isn't
the case.
Good
Luck.
Greg
P.S. Look on the net to find some good sources
for purchasing a Stealth TT,
too. You can find some great cars for a
decent price if you're willing to shop
around a little. It may take you
the 6 months you're thinking about waiting,
but what difference does it make
if you get the car you want. Oh, and BTW ...
the price can range from
10 - 20 K depending on the mileage, condition, and a
bunch of other factors
... we'd need more specific information to help you set
an expected
price.
"Adam M. Kuhn" wrote:
> I have a question for
the group. I currently own a 95 3000GT Base and am
> looking to
upgrade to a Stealth R/T Twin Turbo, want to know what year I
> should be
looking at, looking for the best overall for options/horsepower.
> And,
what would be a good price for the year recommended. I am currently
in
> the Philadelphia, PA area and looking to upgrade in the next 6
months. I
> recently moved to the area so don't know any good
contacts in the area to
> find the car. Would you recommend buying
from a dealer as opposed to a
> private seller or does it matter, what
should I look at (or have the
> mechanic look at) specifically when
looking at the vehicle. For those of
> you that have driven a NA and
a Turbo, what will I notice as the biggest
> difference. One more
thing, I currently have a K&N FIPK brand new in the
> box, should I
install it in my car or wait for the turbo. Thanks for your
>
help!
>
> You can email me privately with your help if you
prefer!
>
> Adam Kuhn
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:12:40
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Unequal tire sizes - thanks for the responses
Thanks for all the info
folks. Steve - I took your advice. I bought the
tires (they have 7/32nds left
on them when new has 10/32nds). I am going to
try to either sell them or use
them on my BMW. I will not, however, use them
on my Stealth unless I buy two
more for the back. Tire Rack has them at $250
each. That is pretty expensive
for me but with two in hand for $10 maybe all
four at about $600.00 balanced
and mounted is not that bad. I guess I don't
have to decide right now. My
current front tires still have about 10,000
miles left and the rears are
brand new. Thanks to all of you who responded
especially Geogh, Steve
and Cody.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:14:51
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Unequal tire sizes - thanks (and sorry Geoff)
Sorry I mispelled your name
Geoff. Won't happen again.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:20:59
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking to upgrade
Just a sample of what is available on the net.
I bought my Firestorm Red 93
Stealth TT-AWD (110,000 miles) on April 1 of
this year for $7800. I live in
California and had to fly back to Missouri to
get the car. Fortunately, the
seller was a very honest guy and had kept the
car in very good shape.
Driving the 2000 miles back to California was a
blast. I went through the
Bonneville Salt Flats, but the race course part is
only runnable in the
summer. Right now it is still under the winters rains.
My point is that
there are good deals out there, but once out of my local
area I realized I
was at the mercy of the seller. If the car had been a lemon
I would have
really regretted it. Caveat Emptor on the
WEB.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 23:57:27
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking to upgrade
> To answer a few of your questions
.... In the Stealth
> R/T TT, the best year for options and horse power
is
> the 1994. It is the last year with all the Bells and
>
Whistles and has the full 320 HP of all the 2nd Gen.
> Stealth TTs.
In 1995-1996 model years, quite a few
> of the option parts were dropped
off the car because
> Dodge knew it was going to be discontinued, but
the
> 1995-1996 cars do have the full 320 HP and AWS and AWD
> that
make the car what it really is. Prior to 1994,
> the Stealth TTs
were only 300 HP and had the pop-up
> headlights and a variety of
different options
> depending on the year.
I'd disagree that the
'94 is the best year car to get. It has non
OBD-compliant diagnostic
connectors (so there are no datalogging tools for
it) and the glass headlamp
lenses that moisture problems. The 320hp is not
a big deal. The
extra 20 HP of later models can be gotten for free by
simply removing the
boost solenoid restrictor orifice in under a minute
(don't ask for details
about this - look in the Archives).
Now, if you are looking for a car to
just run stock or do mild modifications
to (just a boost controller and a
K&N and exhaust work) then the datalogging
capability doesn't matter much
and most any year will work - depending on
what style you like and whether or
not you want a 6-speed or 5-speed tranny.
If you go beyond those mods, then
you'll miss not having a datalogger that
works - in which case a '91-93 is
actually the best bet with '96 OBD-II cars
being "acceptable".
So,
first figure out what you want to do with the car and then pick the year
that
matches your own personal criteria.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 01:59:27
-0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Looking to upgrade
There are many thins to consider as to
which year is "best."
That depends on what you are looking for.
Personally, as far as the
Stealth's go, 91-93, in my opinion, looks best. If
you want a car to
upgrade, these are also the best years considering the
relatively low prices
these cars go for. Also, as mentioned earlier,
dataloging is possible with
these cars. Wanna track car? 95-96 would be a
better option. These cars
weigh considerably less since many options and
gee-whiz gadgets are missing
in these years. Most importantly, AWS is not
there. I believe that Trevor
has put his '96 on the scales at somewhere
around 3500 lbs! For a road-race
or drag car, this would be the ideal model
to have. If you are going with a
91-93, the 93 would be the better year. It
still has the 5speed manual
unfortunatley, but the output shaft on the tranny
is beefier than previous
years. Also, the crankshaft is the machined steel
crank instead of the cast
one. I'm not sure where the '94 models falls in
this equation. I don't know
wether or not it has AWS but I'm pretty sure it
has the six speed. BTW, the
AWS is only deleted in the Stealth series, not
the 3000GT series. If you are
looking for a good street car, with a few mods,
pick out the year that looks
best to you for your money.... Can afford to
spend more? Get the newer ones
with the fancy non-popup headlights and the
six-speed tranny. You won't miss
datalogging if you only do basic
mods.
Hoser
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 08:03:41
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Locking Lugnut Key Lock for VR4 needed
Jim and Liz,
Thanks for the
info on the lock key. I'll give them a call today to get a
key. I
do have the info on the key.
- -MIKE-
95 Red
VR4
>
> I think there are multiple configurations --- McGard
is the
> outfit that sells them,
> call 1-800-444-5847 or
1-716-662-9617. I bought one for my car a few years
> ago for $10
ea.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 08:22:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: race day tip
This is a Nascar trick. I'd be real
curious which brand comes off without
taking up the pain. This would be
really nice for track use, notwithstanding
those who won't drive bra-less
(Flash)!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:28 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: Tim; kurt zobel; Jose Soriano; Jim Berry; George Kuo; damon Rachell;
>
Bruce; Geoff Mohler
> Subject: Team3S: race day tip
>
> An
equipment saving tip I picked up from the some Viper drivers
> while at
Willow Springs ---- to protect the front of their cars while
> driving at
high speeds at open track events they cover the portions
> of the car at
risk with clear vinyl shelf covering. The sticky back shelf
> liner gets a
little tattered over the course of the weekind but I was
> told it peels
off eaisly and cleans up with soap and water. Worth a
> try if you want to
protect the front of your car from rock damage.
> It's probably too late
for my car --- the front bumper cover is pretty
> beat up, but, when I get
it repainted I'll keep it in mind.
>
> I'd try it out on a small
area, leave it on for a few days and then
> remove it. They said the
stuff sold at almost any hardware store
> is all that's
needed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 01 09:19:58
-0500
From: potter <
potter@interaccess.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Idle problem after plug wire change
I don't think this is the
typical ISC problem so I will give the details of
what is
happening.
I changed the wires in my 91 VR4 (they were originals and it
had a
miss/hesitation). It now runs and pulls better but won't
idle. It tries to
idle so low it dies at stops. It idled fine
before the change. Yes, I did
change the plenum gasket. One of
the reason I don't think it is the ISC is
that I can drive it with the AC on
since the idle is bumped up enough to keep
it running. I like AC, but
with the price of gas, (Chicago area) I don't the
compressor running when it
is 50F out.
I don't have much time to work on it this week, but am
looking for some
suggestions. I plan on doing a pressure test to look
for any leaks and if
that checks out then I guess I just try to adjust the
idle as per the manual.
Any ideas why new plug wires would have such
an effect?
- -Bill
91 VR4
3SI #49
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:20:54
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Looking to upgrade
Re-read what I said, Matt. I said the '94 was
the best combination of
options
and horsepower. The original writer
specifically said he was looking
for the
best combination of power and
bells and whistles ... in the Stealth, the
94
Stealth is the car.
The first gens. didn't have all of the options that
ultimately got into the
94 and the 95-96s started having options dropped
out. I
was not
specifically saying which year was the "Best" car ... only what
was
the
best year for what the writer was seeking. Granted the 20 extra HP
can
easily
be compensated for with a few simple mods. and the lack of
datalogging
ability
may be an issue for those trying to really tune the
car to high
performance
conditions, but it just depends on what you
need/want. Oh and I've
never had a
problem with fogging in my
headlights and have heard of plenty of first
gen.
owners that have had
that problem, so that's not really a valid
argument. In
short, I
agree with you completely ... figure out what you want to do
with the
car
and buy one accordingly.
Greg
"Jannusch, Matt"
wrote:
> I'd disagree that the '94 is the best year car to get.
It has non
> OBD-compliant diagnostic connectors (so there are no
datalogging tools for
> it) and the glass headlamp lenses that moisture
problems. The 320hp is not
> a big deal. The extra 20 HP of
later models can be gotten for free by
> simply removing the boost
solenoid restrictor orifice in under a minute
> (don't ask for details
about this - look in the Archives).
>
> Now, if you are looking for
a car to just run stock or do mild modifications
> to (just a boost
controller and a K&N and exhaust work) then the datalogging
>
capability doesn't matter much and most any year will work - depending
on
> what style you like and whether or not you want a 6-speed or 5-speed
tranny.
> If you go beyond those mods, then you'll miss not having a
datalogger that
> works - in which case a '91-93 is actually the best bet
with '96 OBD-II cars
> being "acceptable".
>
> So, first
figure out what you want to do with the car and then pick the year
> that
matches your own personal criteria.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:51:45
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: headlight "fogging"
The infamous headlight "fogging" common with
the '94 model year has been
mentioned in a few recent posts, and I thought I
would mention that it is
correctable. Last weekend I followed the
instructions on John Adams' Repair
Center web site (
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm)
and separated
the glass cover from each light module to clean up the film
that had
accumulated. It is not moisture, as some have suggested,
rather it is a
tough layer of scale, presumably caused by outgassing in the
sealed
enclosure. At any rate, some scrubbing with Mopar Window Cleaner
was all it
took, and other than the pitting on the outside (rock chips,
etc.), they
look like new! The entire process can be completed in 30-45
minutes (per
side) and is well worth it.
Thanks John for blazing the
trail on this one. I would add the following
notes to his
tutorial:
1) A hair dryer is perfect - just hot enough to soften the
seal, yet not hot
enough to distort the plastic. Have an assistant aim
the dryer while you
work on separation of the two halves.
2) John
mentions cutting the seal with a utility knife. To clarify,
cutting
along the top of the seal makes little difference. Concentrate
on softening
the seal with heat and use several large screwdrivers to pry the
case open.
Do not push too hard, or the glass will splinter and/or the
plastic will get
gouged up (neither is visible once the enclosure is resealed
and
reinstalled). The glass section slides into the plastic lower
section, and
the seal is sticky throughout the contact patch. Once
you've pried the two
halves apart enough to see the bottom edge of the glass
section, THEN use
the utility knife to sever the seal. Be careful not
to cut into the
plastic, as this will expose the white under the paint.
Even though such
cuts will end up down low where it appears unlikely to be
seen, it WILL be
slightly visible due to refraction through the glass; use a
permanent
colored marker or touch-up paint before reassembly.
3) Do
not use caulk or other sealant when pressing the halves back together.
Enough
of the original seal will remain, and additional sealant will likely
splooge
and end up unsightly.
That's about it. Yes, I scratched some of my
plastic, and yes, I used
caulk, and yes, I'll have to take both enclosures
apart again to paint the
scratches and remove the caulk. :-| I
hope the above saves someone the
trouble!
Good luck, and
enjoy.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#485
*********************
