------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 19:58:30
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
clutch replacement parts
Is Mitsupartsdirect cheaper then Norco's 20%
discount from list. I saw
mention of a 25% discount from them.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Jim Matthews wrote:
>
> Thanks
very much for your input. I asked
www.mitsupartsdirect.com to
revise
> my order to include the following parts, and will have the
flywheel
> inspected/machined/replaced during installation.
>
> transmission seal kit
> rear main seal (if it's not part of the
trans seal kit)
> clutch slave cylinder
> MR111650 Disc
$65.29
> MD742801 Cover $100.91
> MB837549 Bearing $31.56
>
> - --
> Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 04:06:43
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: E-Brake adjustment
I have a question for you all. My
e-brake holds just fine when I face
downhill. But when I face uphill,
the brake handle has be be pulled very
far up to get it to stick. My
question is: Can I tighten the cable to the
e-brake drum in the rear
or somewhere else in the whole system? Thanks for
your responses and
i'll see you east coast people in less than a week :)
- --Kevin
Umbreit
'91 R/T NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 23:42:17
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driven to be Awful
At 07:56 PM 4/28/01 -0700, Richard
wrote:
>Was it about CART or F1. I thought Stallone spent all that time
watching
>F1 events to make and F1 movie, but the previews all looked like
CART
>stuff? What gives?
>
It used CART cars pretending to be F1
cars on American tracks.
I'll bet F1 didn't want to have anything to do
with Stallone because they
KNEW he would &^%$ up this movie.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 01:03:44
-0700
From: Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Buying a new car...little problems...
Hello all,
I am the guy who
is trying to buy a car in CA without even seeing the car. Well, I had
a
fellow 3SI member go test drive the car. Everything seems OK, except a few
minor
problems. The majority, I know how to fix (I think), but there is
one which I just
want to make sure I am diagnosing properly.
Under WOT
while cruising, the car hesitates for a fraction of a second, and
then
accelerates normal to redline. Apparently, it starts fine from a
redlight, but not
when the car is cruising at say 30 mph in 2nd, and flooring
it. Also, when the car was
first started, it seems that it emitted a
little white gas, almost as if it was burning
oil, but it went away very
quick. It was not reproducible once the car started once.
The car has
been driven very little i the past half a year. It had not been started
in
the past 3 weeks before it was started yesterday. It is a 91 TT with
73K miles, with
the timing belt changed, but I do not believe the plugs and
wires were changed. Do you
guys think both of these small problems on
the surface can be fixed by regularly
driving the car and replacing plugs,
wires, and fuel filter???
Thanks in advance, and looking forward to
buying the 4th 3S in the family.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:03:35
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch replacement parts
It seems like it, at least
temporarily. Here's the promotional Email I
received from
them:
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Deal
[mailto:parts@rockvillemitsubishi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:08
PM
To:
jim@the-matthews.comSubject: April
Promotion
Dear
Customer,
If you have already taken advantage of our April promotion
, then I wanted to
say thank you. If you didn't receive our earlier e-mail
then I wanted to let
you know that are currently offering 25% OFF . We also
offer FREE UPS ground
shipping on your first parts order too! If there are
any maintenance items
you may be considering to purchase for a summer
tune-up you may want to check
out our prices today! Any e-mails received by
the 30th we will honor the 25%
OFF even if our reply is in May. If you would
like an immediate price quote I
will do my best but you may want to call our
toll free number we have several
experienced counter people ready to assist
you. Please let them know your
calling about the internet April promotion
that will insure you get quoted
the special 25% off.
Mike Deal
mike@mitsupartsdirect.comParts
Manager
TOLL FREE NUMBER
1-800-962-9974
WILL
SHAUN MIKE
BERNIE
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 4:59 AM
To: Jim
Matthews
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch replacement
parts
Is Mitsupartsdirect cheaper then Norco's 20% discount from
list. I saw
mention of a 25% discount from them.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:18:54
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Driven to be Awful
Okay, folks, enough already! This is not
an appropriate discussion for the
Team3S list. Let's just hope the
movie encourages more folks to get into
racing and leave it at that. We
now return to our regularly scheduled
program...
Jim, for the Team3S
admins
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 00:45:28
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
Okay guys, my car had some
problems today. Now its my turn to ask for
everyone else's
advice. :-)
Driving the car hard, through the lower three gears at
about 17 psi of
boost, 93 octane fuel, water injection spraying away, etc, at
the top of 3rd
gear when I shifted the car just stopped pulling. Before
that instant,
everything was great. My A/F ratio meter was pegged
full-rich (.9v+). I
wasn't doing anything different than I've done
before.
Car stalls when I pushed the clutch in, pulled over to the
shoulder. Car
wouldn't restart. I figured I blew off the Y-pipe
or burst an intercooler
hose or something along those lines. Examine
under the hood and couldn't
find any hose problems. Fuses and fusible
links all look okay. Motor
cranked, but no spark. After futzing
around in the engine compartment,
tried to start the car again. It did
start, but it was obvious not all
cylinders were firing. Limped the car
to Oskar Persson's house (he was
riding in the car with me at the time) a
couple miles away. We took out the
front bank of plugs - all looked
good with one having a gap smaller than
expected but overall okay.
Insulators looked good - GTPro changed the plugs
to the Denso Iridium plugs
about 600 miles ago.
Checked all three coil packs, and all three are
functional. Decided to
remove the plenum to get at the back bank of
plugs. The two plugs towards
the throttle body had their electrodes
crushed against the ceramic portion
of the plug. The middle cylinder
seems a bit worse than the TB-side
cylinder. Examining the plenum
interior with a light doesn't show any
scoring marks or anything out of the
ordinary. Examining the pistons
through the plug hole doesn't show
anything either - no piston scoring or
abnormally shiny portions of
piston. There was never any smoking in the
exhaust, nor white smoke
indicating the car burning coolant. Replaced the
two crushed plugs and
put the car back together - everything seems fine so
far. I drove it
home about 35 miles today and so far the car hasn't
exhibited any
problems.
GTPro did the following about 900 miles ago:
Installed
HKS upgraded side-mount intercoolers and hard pipe kit
60,000 mile service
(timing belts, accessory belts, water pump)
Replaced spark plugs from the
stock NGK plugs to Denso Iridium plugs
Other than that, the car
has:
Ported 15G turbos (been on the car for probably 15,000 miles)
ACT
clutch (not likely related to this problem - 1000 miles ago)
RC 550cc fuel
injectors
Supra TT fuel pump
Spearco water injection system (on the car a
long time now)
Magnacore plug wires
Split-Second ARC-2 fuel controller/MAF
upgrade
1G DSM BOV
Alamo downpipe
High-flow cat
Borla cat-back
exhaust
Stock Y-pipe (haven't had any reason to replace it)
I guess
what I'm asking is what I should be examining to try to narrow down
what
happened. I'm planning on taking the cat off to see if there are
pieces
of turbine wheel in there (pre-cats are "empty") in case the exhaust
side of
one of the turbos bit the dust. I suppose I should visually
examine
what I can of the intake side of the turbos to try to verify they
aren't
broken as well.
Is it possible that a piece of welding or
soldering or whatever on the new
intercoolers could've come loose and got
sucked through the intake? Seems
like whatever made its way through
must've been a relatively soft metal
since it doesn't appear to have damaged
(or even nicked) the pistons.
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly
welcomed!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 02:31:34
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-Brake adjustment
Remove the center console (the part with
the hinged door). There is prolly a total of 6 or so screws. Once
you do this - you will see an adjustment for the e-brake.
-
-Cody
#I have a question for you all. My e-brake holds just
fine when I face
#downhill. But when I face uphill, the brake handle
has be be pulled very
#far up to get it to stick. My question
is: Can I tighten the
#cable to the
#e-brake drum in the rear or
somewhere else in the whole system?
#Thanks for
#your responses
and i'll see you east coast people in less than a week :)
#
#--Kevin
Umbreit
#'91 R/T NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 01:13:28
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: E-Brake adjustment
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
> Remove
the center console (the part with the hinged door). There is
prolly a
total of 6 or so screws. Once you do this - you will see an
adjustment
for the e-brake.
> -Cody
>
Cody has answered this 2 or 3
other times - that's why we made it one of our
FAQ pages. :-) You
can find it in the section on Tires, Brakes,
etc...
(surprise)
Whenever there is a topic that you need answers on,
you can also check the
Search Page. Enter "ebrake adjust" or +ebrake
+adjust to narrow the search,
or else you'll get 100 or so pages with just
the word ebrake on them...
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmwww.Team3s.com/Search.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 23:35:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression ratio
Hello Team,
Are there any advantages at
all in raising the
compression ratio of our TTs to 9:1?
Thanks,
George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 01:36:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Compression ratio
More torque, but you have to run less boost
to remain safe.
If compression goes up, boost MUST come down to prevent
detonation and
abnormally high cylinder pressures.
On Sat, 28 Apr
2001, George Kuo wrote:
> Hello Team,
>
> Are there any
advantages at all in raising the
> compression ratio of our TTs to
9:1?
>
> Thanks,
> George
- ---
Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:55:25
-0400
From: <
logic316@technologist.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
That's a curious
problem. Hopefully it's just an anomaly, but the only
thing I can think
of is that you may be using spark plugs with tips that are
slightly too
long. I noticed that tip lengths can vary greatly from one
manufacturer
to another (check how long the Denso Iridium plugs are compared
to the OEM
NGK plugs), and although a tip that extends deeper into the
combustion
chamber might theoretically give you better performance, I would
think that
with some plugs you could run into some risk of the piston
tapping against
them at higher temperatures and RPMs (especially with
today's tight
clearances), something that might not occur when the engine
is
cold. I've only experienced this with lawnmowers and
chainsaws, however,
but I hope this helps :-)
- - Frank
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 29, 2001 1:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Crushed spark plug
electrodes?
> Checked all three coil packs, and all three are
functional. Decided to
> remove the plenum to get at the back bank
of plugs. The two plugs towards
> the throttle body had their
electrodes crushed against the ceramic portion
> of the plug. The
middle cylinder seems a bit worse than the TB-side
> cylinder.
Examining the plenum interior with a light doesn't show any
> scoring
marks or anything out of the ordinary. Examining the pistons
>
through the plug hole doesn't show anything either - no piston scoring
or
> abnormally shiny portions of piston. There was never any
smoking in the
> exhaust, nor white smoke indicating the car burning
coolant. Replaced the
> two crushed plugs and put the car back
together - everything seems fine so
> far. I drove it home about 35
miles today and so far the car hasn't
> exhibited any
problems.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:04:12
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Crushed spark plug electrodes?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
To:
Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Date:
Sunday, April 29, 2001 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug
electrodes?
When I had crushed electrodes (exact same 2
cylinders)
it was from melted pistons/chunks coming off.
It died when
shifting to 3rd from wot 2nd redline. Finally started,
limped home -
sounded really sick (terminal) but
it would run. Vac leaks, cringing
noises etc
I hope this isn't the case for you. Doesn't sound
as
severe since you say it runs fine now?
I would at least want to do a
compression test / leak down
for peace of mind.
- -
tds
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Sunday, April 29, 2001 1:33 AM
>Subject: Team3S: Crushed spark plug
electrodes?
>
>
>>Okay guys, my car had some problems
today. Now its my turn to ask for
>>everyone else's advice.
:-)
>>
>>Driving the car hard, through the lower three gears
at about 17 psi of
>>boost, 93 octane fuel, water injection spraying
away, etc, at the top of
>3rd
>>gear when I shifted the car just
stopped pulling. Before that instant,
>>everything was
great. My A/F ratio meter was pegged full-rich (.9v+).
I
>>wasn't doing anything different than I've done
before.
>>
>>Car stalls when I pushed the clutch in, pulled
over to the shoulder. Car
>>wouldn't restart. I figured I
blew off the Y-pipe or burst an intercooler
>>hose or something along
those lines. Examine under the hood and couldn't
>>find any hose
problems. Fuses and fusible links all look okay.
Motor
>>cranked, but no spark. After futzing around in the engine
compartment,
>>tried to start the car again. It did start, but it
was obvious not all
>>cylinders were firing. Limped the car to
Oskar Persson's house (he was
>>riding in the car with me at the time)
a couple miles away. We took out
>the
>>front bank of plugs
- all looked good with one having a gap smaller than
>>expected but
overall okay. Insulators looked good - GTPro changed
the
>plugs
>>to the Denso Iridium plugs about 600 miles
ago.
>>
>>Checked all three coil packs, and all three are
functional. Decided to
>>remove the plenum to get at the back
bank of plugs. The two plugs towards
>>the throttle body had
their electrodes crushed against the ceramic portion
>>of the
plug. The middle cylinder seems a bit worse than the
TB-side
>>cylinder. Examining the plenum interior with a light
doesn't show any
>>scoring marks or anything out of the ordinary.
Examining the pistons
>>through the plug hole doesn't show anything
either - no piston scoring or
>>abnormally shiny portions of
piston. There was never any smoking in the
>>exhaust, nor white
smoke indicating the car burning coolant. Replaced the
>>two
crushed plugs and put the car back together - everything seems fine
so
>>far. I drove it home about 35 miles today and so far the car
hasn't
>>exhibited any problems.
>>
>>GTPro did the
following about 900 miles ago:
>>
>>Installed HKS upgraded
side-mount intercoolers and hard pipe kit
>>60,000 mile service (timing
belts, accessory belts, water pump)
>>Replaced spark plugs from the
stock NGK plugs to Denso Iridium plugs
>>
>>Other than that,
the car has:
>>
>>Ported 15G turbos (been on the car for
probably 15,000 miles)
>>ACT clutch (not likely related to this problem
- 1000 miles ago)
>>RC 550cc fuel injectors
>>Supra TT fuel
pump
>>Spearco water injection system (on the car a long time
now)
>>Magnacore plug wires
>>Split-Second ARC-2 fuel
controller/MAF upgrade
>>1G DSM BOV
>>Alamo
downpipe
>>High-flow cat
>>Borla cat-back
exhaust
>>Stock Y-pipe (haven't had any reason to replace
it)
>>
>>I guess what I'm asking is what I should be examining
to try to narrow
down
>>what happened. I'm planning on taking
the cat off to see if there are
>>pieces of turbine wheel in there
(pre-cats are "empty") in case the
exhaust
>>side of one of the
turbos bit the dust. I suppose I should
visually
>examine
>>what I can of the intake side of the turbos
to try to verify they aren't
>>broken as
well.
>>
>>Is it possible that a piece of welding or soldering
or whatever on the new
>>intercoolers could've come loose and got
sucked through the intake? Seems
>>like whatever made its way
through must've been a relatively soft metal
>>since it doesn't appear
to have damaged (or even nicked) the pistons.
>>
>>Any advice
or suggestions would be greatly
welcomed!
>>
>>-Matt
>>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:04:26
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
"Jannusch, Matt"
wrote:
> Driving the car hard, through the lower three gears at about
17 psi of boost,
> 93 octane fuel, water injection spraying away, etc, at
the top of 3rd gear
> when I shifted the car just stopped pulling.
Before that instant, everything
> was great. My A/F ratio meter was
pegged full-rich (.9v+).
Can you and do you monitor knock? If the
water injection stopped spraying
(clogged injector, uncovered pick-up,
interminttent bad ground to pump, etc.),
you would expect some knock at 17psi
and 93 octane especially if the fuel
delivery was tuned relying on the water
injection.
> changed the plugs to the Denso Iridium plugs about 600
miles ago.
Several noted 3S members have spoken against the iridium
plugs, may want to
consider running NGK copper core plugs one heat range
cooler than stock
(BCPR7ES) gapped at .028 - .032". This is coming from
people such as Todd
Shelton, Bob Fontana, Roger Gerl, etc.
> The
two plugs towards the throttle body had their electrodes crushed against
>
the ceramic portion of the plug. The middle cylinder seems a bit worse
than
> the TB-side cylinder. Examining the plenum interior with a
light doesn't show
> any scoring marks or anything out of the
ordinary. Examining the pistons
> through the plug hole doesn't show
anything either - no piston scoring or
> abnormally shiny portions of
piston.
So your problem is with cylinder #4 & #6, a.k.a. the hot
cylinders (for various
reasons including rear bank disipates less heat to
atmosphere, the fuel rail
feeds #4 & #6 last, and twice I've seen the
middle cylinder on both heads have
the lowest volume hence highest Cr).
Look at your plugs again closely, did they
get "crushed" over from debris
hitting it OR were they weakened from detonation
and bent over on
themselves?
A much happier scenario we can hope for would be the
following. Did you notice
that the spark plugs with ground electrode
damage were loosely torqued? Spark
plugs rely on good torque for heat
conduction into the cylinder head. If they
don't have good crush on the
washer and decent load between adjacent threads,
the plug will overheat and
fail. You can quickly burn the ground electrode
right off if you only
put a plug in finger tight and run at WOT.
> Replaced the two crushed
plugs and put the car back together - everything
> seems fine so
>
far. I drove it home about 35 miles today and so far the car hasn't
exhibited
> any problems.
Monitor knock if possible (I'm not a big
proponent of water or alcohol injection
for anything but a strict drag
car). If you plan on running it on a daily basis
at boost levels that
require it, be careful (monitor knock / EGTs, periodically
clean the pump and
injector, and use only distilled water).
> I'm planning on taking the
cat off to see if there are pieces of turbine wheel
> in there (pre-cats
are "empty") in case the exhaust side of one of the turbos
> bit the
dust. I suppose I should visually examine what I can of the intake
>
side of the turbos to try to verify they aren't broken as well.
Sounds
like you are convinced something rattled through the system.
Find
someone with a bore scope to look at cylinders 4 and 6 in detail.
If something
went through that can crush the ground electrode, it will have
left some witness
marks. If there is evidence, then procede to look at
damage to the turbos, both
compressor and turbine wheels.
> Any
advice or suggestions would be greatly welcomed!
Best of luck, let us
know what you find,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:22:49
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-Brake adjustment
I was wondering if the original question
was going to be answered ... the
fact that when facing downhill the e-brake
is easily applied but when facing
uphill the handle needs pulled very
hard. Any reason for this?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 who needs to
tighten his own e-brake
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:15:48
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
> Can you and do you
monitor knock? If the water injection
> stopped spraying (clogged
injector, uncovered pick-up,
> interminttent bad ground to pump, etc.),
you would expect
> some knock at 17psi and 93 octane especially if the
fuel
> delivery was tuned relying on the water
injection.
Unfortunately I can monitor neither knock or timing advance
since I have a
'95. If anyone knows a way to do either one, please let
me know and I'll
hook it up right away. :-)
>> changed the
plugs to the Denso Iridium plugs about 600 miles ago.
> Several noted 3S
members have spoken against the iridium plugs, may want
to
> consider
running NGK copper core plugs one heat range cooler than stock
> (BCPR7ES)
gapped at .028 - .032". This is coming from people such as Todd
>
Shelton, Bob Fontana, Roger Gerl, etc.
Yeah, I know that those aren't
favorites around here. I was under the
impression that they would be
replaced with stock plugs, but instead found
those in there. I think I
may just buy another set of stock plugs and put
those in their place.
The plugs are all currently gapped at .030 (four
Desno Iridium, two new stock
platinum NGK's).
> Look at your plugs again closely, did they get
"crushed"
> over from debris hitting it OR were they weakened from
>
detonation and bent over on themselves?
Its actually a little tough to
tell, although at first glance I assumed they
were hit by something.
I'll take pictures of the two damaged plugs tomorrow
and post them somewhere
where you guys can see them.
> A much happier scenario we can hope for
would be the
> following. Did you notice that the spark plugs with
ground
> electrode damage were loosely torqued? Spark plugs rely
on
> good torque for heat conduction into the cylinder head.
I
didn't really notice, but it didn't seem to take much to get the
plugs
out. There was anti-sieze compound on all the plugs'
threads. I'd say it
took maybe 5 ft-lbs of pressure to get them
loosened, which is much lower
than what I normally do when I torque
plugs.
> ... be careful (monitor knock / EGTs, periodically
clean
> the pump and injector, and use only distilled water).
Open
to suggestions on monitoring knock. I will definitely get an EGT
gauge,
I've been watching A/F ratio but obviously that's not enough. I
wanted
to keep the car looking as stock as possible in the interior, but I
suppose
at this stage of the game that's no longer wise.
Thanks for the
suggestions! I'll let everyone know if I find anything else
with the
car.
Just in case, who makes the "best" pistons these days?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:32:35
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
matt just a quick question i
know its not priority on your list
but do you have any pictures of your water
injection system?
why did you choose spearco instead of the triad
system?
you said yours is water, CAN you put alcohol in it, or is it
only
water? and where did you put your tank? how big is it, and what do
you
have to do, every day you go out, poor water in there.. so
basically
if you are on a road trip or something you have to keep pulling
over
to fill it up?
just wondering. im considering the
Triad system myself, Matt from
Dynamic
racing runs that system.. don't
know much about the spearco myself.
if you have any suggestions, please
let me know.
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> > Can you
and do you monitor knock? If the water injection
> > stopped
spraying (clogged injector, uncovered pick-up,
> > interminttent bad
ground to pump, etc.), you would expect
> > some knock at 17psi and 93
octane especially if the fuel
> > delivery was tuned relying on the
water injection.
>
> Unfortunately I can monitor neither knock or
timing advance since I have a
> '95. If anyone knows a way to do
either one, please let me know and I'll
> hook it up right away.
:-)
>
> >> changed the plugs to the Denso Iridium plugs about
600 miles ago.
> > Several noted 3S members have spoken against the
iridium plugs, may want
> to
> > consider running NGK copper core
plugs one heat range cooler than stock
> > (BCPR7ES) gapped at .028 -
.032". This is coming from people such as Todd
> > Shelton, Bob
Fontana, Roger Gerl, etc.
>
> Yeah, I know that those aren't
favorites around here. I was under the
> impression that they would
be replaced with stock plugs, but instead found
> those in there. I
think I may just buy another set of stock plugs and put
> those in their
place. The plugs are all currently gapped at .030 (four
> Desno
Iridium, two new stock platinum NGK's).
>
> > Look at your plugs
again closely, did they get "crushed"
> > over from debris hitting it
OR were they weakened from
> > detonation and bent over on
themselves?
>
> Its actually a little tough to tell, although at
first glance I assumed they
> were hit by something. I'll take
pictures of the two damaged plugs tomorrow
> and post them somewhere where
you guys can see them.
>
> > A much happier scenario we can hope
for would be the
> > following. Did you notice that the spark
plugs with ground
> > electrode damage were loosely torqued?
Spark plugs rely on
> > good torque for heat conduction into the
cylinder head.
>
> I didn't really notice, but it didn't seem to
take much to get the plugs
> out. There was anti-sieze compound on
all the plugs' threads. I'd say it
> took maybe 5 ft-lbs of pressure
to get them loosened, which is much lower
> than what I normally do when I
torque plugs.
>
> > ... be careful (monitor knock / EGTs,
periodically clean
> > the pump and injector, and use only distilled
water).
>
> Open to suggestions on monitoring knock. I will
definitely get an EGT
> gauge, I've been watching A/F ratio but obviously
that's not enough. I
> wanted to keep the car looking as stock as
possible in the interior, but I
> suppose at this stage of the game that's
no longer wise.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions! I'll let
everyone know if I find anything else
> with the car.
>
>
Just in case, who makes the "best" pistons these days?
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 14:52:22
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Rim size & calibration
Do the cars that have 18" rims have
any different calibrated settings
than the cars with 17" rims?
i mean
in terms of speedo calibrations, gas mileage.. etc.
Im asking because id
like to go 18 inch on my stock 1992 17 inches.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:20:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rim size & calibration
There are only 2 speedo gears
available for the AWD, very early
models (27/36) and all the others (28/36)
including some late model
5-speeds. The 245/40-18 has a 0.136% larger
circumference than the
245/45-17 (80.79" vs. 80.68"). The stock speedo is
quoted by Mitsu in
their service manual as having an "error" of -5% to
+10% !!!!!
The 18" wheel isn't the whole story of course, the tire size
is
important. I will be switching soon from my stock 245/45-17 to
18"
wheels and 265/35-18 tires (and dropping about 11 lbs per wheel
and
tire, 46# vs. 57#). The 265/35-18 has a circumference of about
79.49"
or about 1.47% smaller than stock. Still within the error
factor
quoted by Mistu for the speedometer. The mileage on the car will
go
up by about 74 miles in 5000 miles, not a big deal in my book.
When you're looking for tires don't forget their weight (ask
TireRack
or Discount when shopping around). Pirelli makes some of the
lighter
tires available (24-26 lbs in the 265/35 P Zero series). Many
other
tires are about 28 pounds.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
To:
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 29, 2001 12:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rim size &
calibration
Do the cars that have 18" rims have any different calibrated
settings
than the cars with 17" rims?
i mean in terms of speedo
calibrations, gas mileage.. etc.
Im asking because id like to go 18 inch
on my stock 1992 17 inches.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:25:56
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rim size & calibration
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
> Do
the cars that have 18" rims have any different calibrated settings
> than
the cars with 17" rims?
> i mean in terms of speedo calibrations, gas
mileage.. etc.
> Im asking because id like to go 18 inch on my stock 1992
17 inches.
>
Hey, Mark,
When you "Plus-Size" (from 17" to
18" rims, for example) you go from a
smaller wheel with *more* rubber in the
sidewall to a larger wheel with
*less* rubber in the sidewall. Hence
the term, "low-profile" - for tires
with a small sidewall profile. The
*overall* size of the combination of
wheel & tire stays the same, so no
recalibration is necessary. And gas
mileage is unaffected, of course,
since the overall diameter and
circumference of the tire is (theoretically)
identical.
Among the advantages of Plus-Sizing are better handling and
cornering, and
"feeling" the road more. And they look better, too,
obviously...
Disadvantages(?) are a harder ride (read: more "sure-footed"),
and the fact
that those wheel/tire sizes are way more expensive. You
can read about the
"Plus-Size" concept on the Tire Rack website, or if you
can wait 'til
tomorrow, Cody has one prepared for our Team3S
website.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:30:38
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
HKS EVC IV boost controller question
Joshua,
This seems about
right. Not everyone can get their cars tuned properly in
the low
gears. The car goes too quick through the RPMs for the computer
to
addapt. I't been a while since I ran my car @ 1 bar, but it would
never
hold it in 1st or 2nd gear (however it would spike to 1.05 bars).
However,
in 3+ gears I can hold 1 bar to redline. Keep in mind that I
have a
different bost controller: Apexi AVC-R. I have it in constant
learning mode
for gears 3 and 4.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
-
-----------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:56:42
-0400
From: "Joshua Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS EVC IV boost controller question
I setup the boost controller
to what I believe are all the correct settings
but this is the funny
part:
Gear 1: About .85 boost
Gear 2. .87-.89
Gear 3. .92-.95
Gear 4
1.00
Gear 5 1.00
Gear 6 1.00
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:30:36
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Tuning car by injectors??
Matt,
>Just by looking at injector
duty cycle you aren't going to get the whole
>story of what the engine is
seeing at various loads. The EGT gauge is
going
>to be more
beneficial for figuring out how close to the edge you are.
I know that
the people with the Apexi AVC-R's still haven't reached a
consensus whether
the IDC (injector duty cycle) readings are true or not.
In my tuning
proposal, I was assuming the IDC readings were true and
accurate. On
setting B (.8 bars) at 145 mph (5th gear) I was reading 900
deg C on the EGT
from the front bank.
>What are your EGT's doing while it says you are
at 100% IDC? In general,
>the ECU will go into fuel cut mode before
you hit a "real" 100% IDC.
I didn't feel like testing setting A (1 bar)
again. But, previously I have
seen the temps @ 950 @ 135 mph @ 1
bar. My brother has seen the EGT temps
at 1050 deg C @ 155mph @ 1
bar. This seems way too high to me. Someone
(Geoff Mohler, or
Jeff Lucius and probably a few others) advised to keep the
EGTs at or below
900 deg C.
How can we find out if the IDC readings are correct or
not. My car is a 95
VR4, therefore I cannot use a datalogger. Can
anyone with a 1st gen TT/VR4
that has an AVC-R and datalogger confirm if the
IDC values are true or not.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
John
94
Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:33:15
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rim size & calibration
There is no change if you Plus
Size you tyres and wheels. Check out this
calculator, put in the std size
(the one you run at the moment) and enter
your target size, you will see the
difference. I have the author's
permission to build the tyre calculator into
my own site, and will this week
with all the GT GTO SL etc wheel/tyre sizes
entered.
In the mean time go to
http://www.secret-secret.com/turbo/DIY/tirecalc/turbotire.htmlhave
fun
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bob Forrest
Sent: 29 April 2001 20:26
To:
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu;
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim size & calibration
- -----
Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
> Do
the cars that have 18" rims have any different calibrated settings
> than
the cars with 17" rims?
> i mean in terms of speedo calibrations, gas
mileage.. etc.
> Im asking because id like to go 18 inch on my stock 1992
17 inches.
>
Hey, Mark,
When you "Plus-Size" (from 17" to
18" rims, for example) you go from a
smaller wheel with *more* rubber in the
sidewall to a larger wheel with
*less* rubber in the sidewall. Hence
the term, "low-profile" - for tires
with a small sidewall profile. The
*overall* size of the combination of
wheel & tire stays the same, so no
recalibration is necessary. And gas
mileage is unaffected, of course,
since the overall diameter and
circumference of the tire is (theoretically)
identical.
Among the advantages of Plus-Sizing are better handling and
cornering, and
"feeling" the road more. And they look better, too,
obviously...
Disadvantages(?) are a harder ride (read: more "sure-footed"),
and the fact
that those wheel/tire sizes are way more expensive. You
can read about the
"Plus-Size" concept on the Tire Rack website, or if you
can wait 'til
tomorrow, Cody has one prepared for our Team3S
website.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:35:30
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: 0 Boost, a moving seat, and cheap parts
Two quick questions and a
recommendation:
1. After last months discussison about gas mileage,
I got to thinking; In
order to extract maximum fuel economy (premium
pump gas is pushing $2.30 in
my area), would it be ok to set my boost
controller to "0" boost (or close to
it) for driving around town? This
would be just for normal driving -
probably 80% of the time. Of course
when I wanted to have some fun I could
just dial in 15 psi. Would the
low boost settings cause problems over the
long-run? Excessive
combustion chamber deposites? ECU problems? Check
engine
light? It seems to me that running very low boost would dramatically
improve gas mileage and extend engine life. What do you guys
think?
Another question: I have a problem with
my drivers seat. When I hit the
brakes hard, I can feel it slide
forward about a 1/4 of an inch, and when I
accelerate hard, it moves back
about the same. Does anyone else have this
problem, it's not a big
deal, but it's very annoying, and I'd like to fix
it. Before I
tear out my drivers seat I'd like to see if anyone else has
found an easy
fix for this. I have the premium 10-way adjustable power seats
(2
knobs, one on the center console for lateral and lumbar support and one on
the left lower cushion for forward/back, up/down and tilt
adjustment).
I wanted to pass on a recommendation to the list: I
recently bought an
Indiglo DSBC from
http://www.phronline.com/, their price was
$50 cheaper then
the next cheapest vendor, and they shipped for half the
price I was
expecting. Within 3 hours of placing my order over the
phone, I got an email
from UPS confirming that my order had been
shipped. They also have some
really great prices on the Apexi Super
AVC-R ($469 on their web site). I
spent about 5 hours seaching the web
for prices on a couple of other
performance parts, and they were
consistently cheaper then anyone else. I
talked to a guy name
"Bottle", he also said they have Tein coil-overs in
stock for those who are
looking - again, cheaper then anyone else.
Thanks in advance for
your help
Cyrus
'97 Glacier Pearl White VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:06:20
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crushed spark plug electrodes?
> matt just a quick
question i know its not priority
> on your list but do you have any
pictures of your
> water injection system?
I don't, but it is the
standard Spearco kit mounted in the battery tray with
the hoses/nozzle tapped
into the plastic stock Y-pipe.
> why did you choose spearco instead of
the triad system?
> you said yours is water, CAN you put alcohol in it,
or
> is it only water? and where did you put your tank? how
>
big is it, and what do you have to do, every day you go
> out, poor water
in there.. so basically if you are on a
> road trip or something you have
to keep pulling over
> to fill it up?
I mostly chose it
because at the time the only competing product that I was
aware of was the
Aquamist system for much money. Hadn't heard about the
Triad and SMC
(or whoever) alcohol systems. The Buick (Grand National,
Turbo Regal)
guys also use various water/alcohol injection systems. Mine
only uses
about 3/4 a tank of water (about a couple quarts, maybe less) per
tankful of
gas. I just top it off every time I fill the car with gas.
Its
never run out between gas fillups except when at racing events - in
which
case I usually keep my eye on it throughout the day and top it off
as
necessary. Since my car pulls pretty strong now I'm not at WOT very
much of
the time on the street so water usage isn't extreme.
> just
wondering. im considering the Triad system myself,
> Matt from
Dynamic racing runs that system.. don't know
> much about the spearco
myself.
The Spearco setup is a very simple system, and probably the
cheapest
available. If you wanna try water injection on a budget then
its the way to
go. There is NO pump monitoring or even an indication as
to when the system
is pumping unless you wire something up yourself. It
is VERY basic.
Personally, if you aren't very serious about meticulously
checking things on
your car and making sure everything is working I would
forget about
water/alcohol injection. Unfortunately its one of those
things where if
something goes wrong you need to be prepared to rebuild your
motor.
If you don't at least have upgraded turbos and fuel system I'd
probably skip
it and do those to get "safer" power first.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:08:20
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
RE: HKS EVC IV boost controller question -- more info
Joshua,
I
looked up one of my charts of a timed trial from Nov 2000. The data
from
the AVC-R was reccorded with a cammcoder and then inputed into an
EXCEL
sheet. The 1/4 mile on that run was 13.416 sec @ 105.225 mph with
a 0-60 of
4.776 sec in the same run (boost was 1 bar).
You can see
that the boost was holding less than optimal. I believe it
wasn't
holding too much due to the spiking. When the boost controller
spikes a
lot, it will not hold boost as well as it can. Make sure your
car
doesn't spike above 1.05 bars.
http://sun.science.wayne.edu/~mraicu/performance_VR4_chart.xls
(127k)
for a more comprehensive excel file with all my data, see the
following
link. It took a while to make this sheet, and I made it
accurate. Please,
don't annybody doubt the accuracy of this
sheet. These numbers should be
comparable to other people's 1/4 and
0-60 times @ 1 bars. The runs in the
file were done on my brother's 94
TT.
http://sun.science.wayne.edu/~mraicu/perf_94_tt_11-25-00.xls
(978k) big
file-- open it only if you want to see all the data. There
are multiple
charts of different derivations.
- -MIKE-
95 Red
VR4
> -----------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 28 Apr
2001 14:56:42 -0400
> From: "Joshua Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
>
Subject: Team3S: HKS EVC IV boost controller question
>
> I setup
the boost controller to what I believe are all the
> correct
settings
> but this is the funny part:
> Gear 1: About .85
boost
> Gear 2. .87-.89
> Gear 3. .92-.95
> Gear 4
1.00
> Gear 5 1.00
> Gear 6 1.00
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#479
*********************