team3s            Thursday, March 15 2001            Volume 01 : Number 436




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:43:11 -0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake squeal

Hello all,
here is the problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new car.
My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the shop think
they tried everything to eliminate the problem but nothing helped yet. When
I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the hill and I hold
down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is very, very VERY
annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but I do want to fix this problem
before I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
answer will be greately appreciated!

Thank you!
Dusan


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:51:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake squeal

Its not pads, or rotors.

Youre missing your shims on the backing plates of the pads.

Its brake dust..and without the shims..they squeeeeal.

If your car doesnt have shims by default, get some anti squeal compound
and put it on the back of the pad plates.

On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:

> Hello all,
> here is the problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new car.
> My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
> taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
> rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the shop think
> they tried everything to eliminate the problem but nothing helped yet. When
> I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the hill and I hold
> down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is very, very VERY
> annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but I do want to fix this problem
> before I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
> answer will be greately appreciated!
>
> Thank you!
> Dusan
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:54:32 -0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake squeal

How come then I only hear one of my brakes squeal?

Thanks!
Dusan


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To: "Dusan Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake squeal


> Its not pads, or rotors.
>
> Youre missing your shims on the backing plates of the pads.
>
> Its brake dust..and without the shims..they squeeeeal.
>
> If your car doesnt have shims by default, get some anti squeal compound
> and put it on the back of the pad plates.
>
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
> > here is the problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new
car.
> > My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
> > taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
> > rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the shop
think
> > they tried everything to eliminate the problem but nothing helped yet.
When
> > I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the hill and I
hold
> > down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is very, very VERY
> > annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but I do want to fix this
problem
> > before I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
> > answer will be greately appreciated!
> >
> > Thank you!
> > Dusan
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:55:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake squeal

It just happens that way..no reason.

On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:

> How come then I only hear one of my brakes squeal?
>
> Thanks!
> Dusan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
> To: "Dusan Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake squeal
>
>
> > Its not pads, or rotors.
> >
> > Youre missing your shims on the backing plates of the pads.
> >
> > Its brake dust..and without the shims..they squeeeeal.
> >
> > If your car doesnt have shims by default, get some anti squeal compound
> > and put it on the back of the pad plates.
> >
> > On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all,
> > > here is the problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new
> car.
> > > My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
> > > taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
> > > rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the shop
> think
> > > they tried everything to eliminate the problem but nothing helped yet.
> When
> > > I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the hill and I
> hold
> > > down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is very, very VERY
> > > annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but I do want to fix this
> problem
> > > before I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
> > > answer will be greately appreciated!
> > >
> > > Thank you!
> > > Dusan
> > >
> > >
> > > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> > >
> >
>
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:49:45 -0600
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Did you leave note on my windshield(non-technical)

Kinda off topic, but someone left a note on my wifes VR-4 last night.  Just
wanted to know who it might be.  You left it on the yellow car at oak park
mall and left me the www.3si.com website.  Maybe we can get together and
talk car stuff.
Thanks for the bandwidth...

Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Automotive Group
Olathe, Ks 66061
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Nissan, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai
913-269-7365


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 21:19:26 +0100
From: mike.chapleski@t-online.de (Mike Chapleski)
Subject: Team3S: Rear Caster/Camber Problems

I had my car on the lift today to figure out why the exhaust system was
banging.  Only took five minutes.  However, as I was tightening up some
bolts I noticed that the steel belts were sticking out on the inside of
the left rear wheel.  VERY BAD.  Especially since I had the car over
110mph an hour before on the autobahn.  So I lowered the car and noticed
that there was a distinct "lean" in on that wheel, almost like the
spring had broke.  I lifted it up again and yanked on the springs, which
all seemed OK.  I then looked at the camber/caster settings.  On both
the right and left sides the bolt was turned to its max limit.  Since I
can't get an emergency alignment in Germany, I figured I would just put
it back to the 90 deg mark per the manual.  When I turned the bolt to
its center position, it actually moved the bottom of the wheel out more,
making the problem worse.  The toe in bolts are about two ticks off the
center, I did not move them.  So I adjusted the camber (or is it caster)
on both sides to the factory "center" position and will take it in this
week and get an alignment.  I will get both rear tires replaced.  So
does anybody know what is going on here?  This is a recent problem,
because my old tire did not have this problem.  Also, I have never had
the car aligned, so no one could have screwed it up.  Is there something
else I should be checking?  I do not have rear wheel steering.


Thanks,

Mike Chapleski

'95 Stealth RT TT 


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 14:12:28 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: turbos

Hey Folks, I'm starting to look at doing preventive maintanence on my 92
Stealth so it can make it up towards 200k miles.  I don't trust the turbos
to go that far and will replace them by 150k.  What do you think?  I can get
a minor upgrade for about $1300.  What other options do I have? Can these
stock units be rebuilt?  Anyone know what stock turbos cost to replace?

Chip






***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:10:14 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

I told you guys I would report back on the results of installing the
upgraded (larger length & diameter) slave cylinder on the clutch of my '95
3000GT VR4. The object was to improve the shifting on my 6-speed Gertag
transmission.
I know you are all surprised to hear of someone having problems with
one of these transmissions, but it is true. At 75,000 miles it was getting
harder than usual (I believe it is described as notchy) to shift and
sometimes difficult just to get into 1st and/or reverse. I am used to
American muscle car transmissions so my Gertag has been a disappointment
thus far for being able to Speed and/or load shift (change gears with out
taking your foot off the gas).
The first thing I tried was using a Valvoline synthetic lubricant
mixed with the lubricant enhancer from Mitsubishi.
This provided a little improvement with the shifting while moving but did
not help with putting it into 1st and/or reverse. Before you start flaming
me I have Redline on order to replace the Valvoline.
The next thing I tried was installing a larger slave cylinder in the
clutch system. This didn't help as much as the adjustments the mechanic made
to the shifter mechanism. Once again slight improvement but not the desired
result.
The next step on the clutch is to eliminate the "anti-dumping" valve
on the hose to the slave to allow it to react faster to the pressure from
the master cylinder. This should help improve the shifting by virtue of the
fact that the clutch will react faster to the motion of the clutch pedal.
Plus we are going to replace the stock bushings in the shifter mechanism
with machined delrin bushings. In addition the mechanic (Rob York) is going
to try a design change on the shifter mechanism itself.
More to follow as we see if I can get the Gertag to shift like what
I'm used to in 'vetes, Cameros, Mustangs, etc.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

While working on my car Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs to my turbos (wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial improvement. One of the other guys that works with him says he
removed the same thing from his Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does Mitsubishi equip these cars with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch from operating to it's full potential ?






***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:15:43 -0500
From: "Lab Rat" <labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: turbos

I got my turbos rebuilt for around $280 each,  New seals and bearings.
Check with a local Semi truck dealer.  They can point you to someone who
will rebuild turbos as many many Semi trucks are turbo charged and easily
run in excess of 800,000 miles. Rebuilding turbos is not uncommon.  I used
Diesel Injection Technologys in Grand Rapids MI.  to rebuild mine.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 4:12 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: turbos


Hey Folks, I'm starting to look at doing preventive maintanence on my 92
Stealth so it can make it up towards 200k miles.  I don't trust the turbos
to go that far and will replace them by 150k.  What do you think?  I can get
a minor upgrade for about $1300.  What other options do I have? Can these
stock units be rebuilt?  Anyone know what stock turbos cost to replace?

Chip






***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:17:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

Jim,

Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these hoses
will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.

Also, I didn't recognize any "anti-dumping" valve on or near the
clutch hydraulic hose when I replaced it on my '92 TT. Is it on one
of the pipes maybe? Perhaps this is an item on newer VR4s? Where
exactly is this valve?

Thanks,

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team 3SI'" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

<snip>

While working on my car Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs to my turbos (wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial improvement. One of the other guys that works with him
says he removed the same thing from his Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does Mitsubishi equip these cars with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch from operating to it's full potential ?


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:43:28 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Did you leave note on my windshield(non-technical)

- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gabriel Estrada"
<typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
> Kinda off topic, but someone left a note on my wifes VR-4 last night.
Just wanted to know who it might be.  You left it on the yellow car at
oak park mall and left me the www.3si.com website.  Maybe we can get
together and talk car stuff. Thanks for the bandwidth...
>

Errrrrr..., Gabe?!?  If it was one of the Team3S members, we would have
left you OUR website URL, www.Team3S.com (or our identical mirror site,
www.stealth-3000gt.st)!!!  We have nothing to do with the 3Si website
and they have nothing to do with the Team3S website (or the Team3S
list).  We have a long and friendly history with 3Si (since we Admins
are among the "founding fathers" of the group, 3Si), but we have no ties
with that website, and vice-versa.  You might want to familiarize
yourself with OUR website, especially the History Page, which explains
"who's who" in the 3S community.

Sending a note about 3Si to the Team3S list is like walking into a Mitsu
dealer and asking, "Where do you keep the Camaros?"  :-)  Try the 3Si
posting board, and ask your question there.  Hope you find him/her...

Best,

Forrest




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 19:05:57 -0700
From: Chip Greenberg <c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbos

thanks for the great advise!
Chip

> From: "Lab Rat" <labrat101@home.com>
> Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:15:43 -0500
> To: "Chip Greenberg" <c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
> Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: turbos
>
> got my turbos rebuilt for around $280 each,  New seals and bearings.
> Check with a local Semi truck dealer.  They can point you to someone who
> will rebuild turbos as many many Semi trucks are turbo charged and easily
> run in excess of 800,000 miles. Rebuilding turbos is not uncommon.  I used
> Diesel Injection Technologys in Grand Rapids MI.  to rebuild mine.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 00:07:26 -0500
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.

If I had worn valve stem seals and the engine oiling because of this, would
I see any oil on my plugs. Just wondering coz I have a problem where it
smokes after idle and I have a good feeling it's the valve stem seals.


Doing a search, I've found that you can change the seals without having to
remove the head with the use of an air compressor used to fill the cylinder
with air in order to keep the valves from falling.

Just wondering if anyone's ever done this and would like to give me any
advice, or if anyone would recommend against this.

Thanks in advance to all responses,

Michael Bulaon


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 00:49:26 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.

You are right, you may have leaking stem seals. In order to replace them
without removing the head, you need a "overhead" valve spring compressor.
Whenever i do it, instead of compressed air, i just thread some 1/8" rope
into the spark plug hole then turn the crank until the piston presses the
rope against the valve. (when the crank can't be turned anymore) Then use
the compressor to remove the spring. Iv'e never done this on a 3000gt
engine however, and some engines (3000 included?) have recessed springs
which render the "overhead" style compressor useless because the arms can't
reach into the pocket. I'm pretty sure you will have to remove the head and
use a conventional spring compressor, but like i said, i'm unsure.

Wayne


At 10:07 PM 3/14/01 , profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net wrote:
>Doing a search, I've found that you can change the seals without having to
>remove the head with the use of an air compressor used to fill the cylinder
>with air in order to keep the valves from falling.
>
>Just wondering if anyone's ever done this and would like to give me any
>advice, or if anyone would recommend against this.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:43:32 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

> Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these hoses
> will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.

I think he's referring to the restriction orifice in the input nipple of the
boost control solenoid.  Taking that out gives a few extra PSI of boost and
a little quicker spoolup since it bleeds off more pressure from the
wastegate lines.  I've posted about it a few times, check the archives for
details.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:58:36 -0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

After I put my air charger on my VR4 last weekend I noticed a whistle
in it when I would let off the throttle.  I took the filter and MAS
off and inspected the connecting surfaces for dips or imperfections
that could lead to a leak but I didn't find anything.  I put the
filter and MAS back in (making sure all the clamps were tight) and
then cranked the car.  It still whistles.  Is this normal for the
larger air charger element, or is there some other defective part
that is causing this?  It only whistles when the throttle is let off.
 The FIPK on my base coupe does not make any sound apart from sucking
in the air.

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks!

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)

'94 3000GT VR4 (K&N Air charger /Green)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:13:30 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

>then cranked the car.  It still whistles.  Is this normal for the
>larger air charger element, or is there some other defective part
>that is causing this?  It only whistles when the throttle is let off.
>  The FIPK on my base coupe does not make any sound apart from sucking
>in the air.

Yep, everythign ok. Your faster car as a bypass valve that routes
pressurized air back to the intake to prevent backpressure to the turbos.
This is what you hear. You may also be prepared for the honking goose sound
(or owl sound) soon as the stock valve leaks a little. No problem too but a
little annoying sound (some like it).

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:14:49 -0500
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

Travis,

You are probably getting the notorious "honking goose" sound that is common
with these types of air filters when used in combination with the stock BOV.
As I understand it (and someone please correct me if this is not right), as
long as it makes the noise only when you close the throttle (when the BOV is
supposed to "blow") then you are OK.  If it is "honking" before you close
the throttle, it is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and you may
want to check into the DSM BOV mod.

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of
ukyo@speedfactory.net
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 09:59
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Air charger whistle?


After I put my air charger on my VR4 last weekend I noticed a whistle
in it when I would let off the throttle.  I took the filter and MAS
off and inspected the connecting surfaces for dips or imperfections
that could lead to a leak but I didn't find anything.  I put the
filter and MAS back in (making sure all the clamps were tight) and
then cranked the car.  It still whistles.  Is this normal for the
larger air charger element, or is there some other defective part
that is causing this?  It only whistles when the throttle is let off.
 The FIPK on my base coupe does not make any sound apart from sucking
in the air.

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks!

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)

'94 3000GT VR4 (K&N Air charger /Green)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:14:30 -0800
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Heat Shield

Was the design flaw on the short heat shield (attached to the inner hood)
ever corrected? Or, is the resolution to the problem to buy a new heat
blanket (also attached to the inner hood) every few years, after  engine
heat deteriorates the silver coating and it begins flaking off.

Darc


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:27:06 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

>As I understand it (and someone please correct me if this is not right), as
>long as it makes the noise only when you close the throttle (when the BOV is
>supposed to "blow") then you are OK.  If it is "honking" before you close
>the throttle, it is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and you may
>want to check into the DSM BOV mod.

It may honk only on part throttle.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:50:24 -0800
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

>
> >As I understand it (and someone please correct me if this is not right),
as
> >long as it makes the noise only when you close the throttle (when the BOV
is
> >supposed to "blow") then you are OK.  If it is "honking" before you close
> >the throttle, it is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and you
may
> >want to check into the DSM BOV mod.
>
> It may honk only on part throttle.
>


...Or it may not honk at all and you are a lucky one ;-)  The
characteristics of different TT cars and different generations may not
necessarily make this honking sound a prerequisite. Most already know this
from past discussion, but this thread implies that the honking sound is
always at open or part throttle. It may not be honk at all  and you have
lucked out ;-)

Darc


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:51:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

I am hoping Jim can help me and us out with my questions. I'm still
wondering about the "anti-dumping valve".

But in the mean time, I just removed the stock boost controller (it
is of no use to me) and carefully inspected it. There is indeed a
"plug" that is about 0.2 inches long in the lower nipple that reduces
the ID from about 0.140 inch to about 0.055 inch (an over 600% change
in cross-sectional area). A dental cleaning pick nicely removes the
plug without damage to it or the nipple.

The lower nipple of the BC is a far cry from "a restriction "pod" on
the vacuum line that runs to my turbos".

Thanks, Matt.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:43 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

> Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these
hoses
> will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.

I think he's referring to the restriction orifice in the input nipple
of the boost control solenoid.  Taking that out gives a few extra PSI
of boost and a little quicker spoolup since it bleeds off more
pressure from the wastegate lines.  I've posted about it a few times,
check the archives for details.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:01:11 -0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: speaking of whistle...

It seems that my Stealth is falling apart... Now at the lower RPMs, or when
just idling I hear (not always, but very often) a very high pitched monotone
whistle. It is coming out of the engine, but I really can't determine where
from since the frequency is quite high. It is a base 92 Stealth, with FIPK
(I had FIPK for a while and never made a noise like that before). The
problem begun when I had my car sitting for a 3 weeks without driving it
(since I got a new ride). Since then I changed the battery and oil + oil
filter. Whenever I step on the throttle the noise goes away, and when RPMs
get lower I can hear it again. And let me tell you, this noise mixed with my
brake squeal is quite an experience while "driving" in stop and go, bumper
to bumper traffic. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Dusan

92 Stealth  (base, automatic)
FIPK



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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:06:43 -0500
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

Guys,

If you have a BOV that doesn't make any noise when you close the throttle or
at part throttle, how do you know that it is working?  Darc, do you mean
that some make noise but not the honking noise, or that some make no noise
at all?

Just curious.

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R


...Or it may not honk at all and you are a lucky one ;-)  The
characteristics of different TT cars and different generations may not
necessarily make this honking sound a prerequisite. Most already know this
from past discussion, but this thread implies that the honking sound is
always at open or part throttle. It may not be honk at all  and you have
lucked out ;-)

Darc



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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:26:14 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question - response

Jeff,

The improvement (seat of pants) was that the acceleration was better
from a standing start. It is as if the turbos were coming on sooner and
providing more torque at lower RPM. It now feels like a V-8 coming off the
line instead of a little six I had to wind way up and feather the clutch to
launch.

My 3000GT VR4 is a 1995.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob,

Can you provide a more detailed description of the "restriction pod"
you and Andy removed from these Mitsubishi cars ?
Also give a specific description of the location of the
"anti-dumping valve" you are going to remove.

Everyone would appreciate it. We are all "way into" these cars.

Thanks.



- -----Original Message-----------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 6:18 PM
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.


Jim,

Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these hoses
will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.

Also, I didn't recognize any "anti-dumping" valve on or near the
clutch hydraulic hose when I replaced it on my '92 TT. Is it on one
of the pipes maybe? Perhaps this is an item on newer VR4s? Where
exactly is this valve?

Thanks,

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team 3SI'" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

<snip>

While working on my car Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs to my turbos (wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial improvement. One of the other guys that works with him
says he removed the same thing from his Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does Mitsubishi equip these cars with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch from operating to it's full potential ?


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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:32:13 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question & answers.

Matt,

That may be what Rob was talking about. I was using his terminology
since I didn't see the item for myself. Not that I would have been any more
accurate as I am mechanically and technically challenged.
That is why I am on here learning from you guys. You wouldn't
believe what a blessing a site like this is for someone like me. Thanks to
everyone who shares the information from their trials and tribulations of
dealing with these cars.
It is truly a love/hate relationship.

Jim

- -----Original Message----------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:52 AM
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.


I am hoping Jim can help me and us out with my questions. I'm still
wondering about the "anti-dumping valve".

But in the mean time, I just removed the stock boost controller (it
is of no use to me) and carefully inspected it. There is indeed a
"plug" that is about 0.2 inches long in the lower nipple that reduces
the ID from about 0.140 inch to about 0.055 inch (an over 600% change
in cross-sectional area). A dental cleaning pick nicely removes the
plug without damage to it or the nipple.

The lower nipple of the BC is a far cry from "a restriction "pod" on
the vacuum line that runs to my turbos".

Thanks, Matt.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:43 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.

> Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these
hoses
> will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.

I think he's referring to the restriction orifice in the input nipple
of the boost control solenoid.  Taking that out gives a few extra PSI
of boost and a little quicker spoolup since it bleeds off more
pressure from the wastegate lines.  I've posted about it a few times,
check the archives for details.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:45:53 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

> > It may honk only on part throttle.
> >
>
>...Or it may not honk at all and you are a lucky one ;-)

Yep, mine never did this until I changed the vales location a little. Then
I was really surprised to hear it :)

>from past discussion, but this thread implies that the honking sound is
>always at open or part throttle. It may not be honk at all  and you have
>lucked out ;-)

I think it's better to say the sound appears under a specific LOAD. It
seems that it is at a specific amount of air where it becomes in resonance
with the piping lenght of the BPV. Sounds strange but we have no other
explanation yet.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:47:27 -0800
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?

Mark;

Some make no noise at all. No honking noise, and no whistle to speak of. The
whistle may be heard if you listen really close, as  on mine, but I have to
be paying more attention to listening for it than to my driving ;-)

I replied to Rogers original post on this but inadvertently hit reply rather
than reply to all, which would have posted to the list. So I will post his
response to me back here for your information. It reaffirms what I have have
just . I trust you do not mind eh Roger ;-)).

>Roger... do I assume this means lack of the whistling sound is also okay
>with this installation?

Yes, no problem. I learned that it highly depends on how much the BPV is
pushed into the bottom of the intake rubber part. I had the FIPK for a long
time and never experienced the goose under the hood. I then changed to the
HKS and later went back and voila, got the goose as well as some BOV like
sound.

>The honking goose may or may not appear with this
>installation as has been discussed at length previously. However, absence
or
>presence of this whistle has never been  discussed to the same length. Must
>it be present, or like the GOOSE, is it a matter of being noticeable on
some
>cars and not on others?

 I never heard the blow off sound on my car (i.e whistle) but of course it
became more noticeable the higher the boost was cranked (more blow off)

Later, Roger



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