team3s
Thursday, March 15
2001 Volume 01
: Number
436
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:43:11 -0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake squeal
Hello all,
here is the problem that has been
bugging me so bad that I bought a new car.
My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s)
have been squealing for ever now. I have
taken it to shops and I had pads
replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is
still there. Guys at the shop think
they tried everything to eliminate the
problem but nothing helped yet. When
I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad,
and if I am on the hill and I hold
down the breaks and let off slowly it
grinds, and it is very, very VERY
annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car,
but I do want to fix this problem
before I do so. Does anyone have any clue
what the problem might be? ANY
answer will be greately
appreciated!
Thank you!
Dusan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:51:52
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake squeal
Its not pads, or rotors.
Youre missing
your shims on the backing plates of the pads.
Its brake dust..and without
the shims..they squeeeeal.
If your car doesnt have shims by default, get
some anti squeal compound
and put it on the back of the pad plates.
On
Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:
> Hello all,
> here is
the problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new car.
> My
92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
>
taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
>
rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the shop
think
> they tried everything to eliminate the problem but nothing helped
yet. When
> I break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the
hill and I hold
> down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is
very, very VERY
> annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but I do want
to fix this problem
> before I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the
problem might be? ANY
> answer will be greately appreciated!
>
> Thank you!
> Dusan
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:54:32
-0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake squeal
How come then I only hear one of my brakes
squeal?
Thanks!
Dusan
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Cc:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 14, 2001 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake
squeal
> Its not pads, or rotors.
>
> Youre missing
your shims on the backing plates of the pads.
>
> Its brake
dust..and without the shims..they squeeeeal.
>
> If your car doesnt
have shims by default, get some anti squeal compound
> and put it on the
back of the pad plates.
>
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic
wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
> > here is the problem that has
been bugging me so bad that I bought a new
car.
> > My 92 Stealth's
(base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I have
> > taken it
to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times, and I bought new
> >
rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still there. Guys at the
shop
think
> > they tried everything to eliminate the problem but
nothing helped yet.
When
> > I break left rear wheel sqeals like
mad, and if I am on the hill and I
hold
> > down the breaks and let
off slowly it grinds, and it is very, very VERY
> > annoying. Now I am
trying to sell the car, but I do want to fix this
problem
> > before
I do so. Does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
> >
answer will be greately appreciated!
> >
> > Thank
you!
> > Dusan
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:55:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake squeal
It just happens that way..no reason.
On
Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic wrote:
> How come then I only hear one
of my brakes squeal?
>
> Thanks!
> Dusan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake
squeal
>
>
> > Its not pads, or rotors.
>
>
> > Youre missing your shims on the backing plates of the
pads.
> >
> > Its brake dust..and without the shims..they
squeeeeal.
> >
> > If your car doesnt have shims by default,
get some anti squeal compound
> > and put it on the back of the pad
plates.
> >
> > On Wed, 14 Mar 2001, Dusan Simovic
wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all,
> > > here is the
problem that has been bugging me so bad that I bought a new
> car.
>
> > My 92 Stealth's (base) brake(s) have been squealing for ever now. I
have
> > > taken it to shops and I had pads replaced 2 or 3 times,
and I bought new
> > > rotors (brmebo's), and the problem is still
there. Guys at the shop
> think
> > > they tried everything to
eliminate the problem but nothing helped yet.
> When
> > > I
break left rear wheel sqeals like mad, and if I am on the hill and I
>
hold
> > > down the breaks and let off slowly it grinds, and it is
very, very VERY
> > > annoying. Now I am trying to sell the car, but
I do want to fix this
> problem
> > > before I do so. Does
anyone have any clue what the problem might be? ANY
> > > answer
will be greately appreciated!
> > >
> > > Thank
you!
> > > Dusan
> > >
> > >
> >
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> >
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:49:45
-0600
From: Gabriel Estrada <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Did you leave note on my windshield(non-technical)
Kinda off
topic, but someone left a note on my wifes VR-4 last night. Just
wanted
to know who it might be. You left it on the yellow car at oak park
mall
and left me the
www.3si.com website.
Maybe we can get together and
talk car stuff.
Thanks for the
bandwidth...
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy
Automotive Group
Olathe, Ks 66061
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Nissan,
Mitsubishi, and Hyundai
913-269-7365
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 21:19:26
+0100
From:
mike.chapleski@t-online.de (Mike
Chapleski)
Subject: Team3S: Rear Caster/Camber Problems
I had my car
on the lift today to figure out why the exhaust system was
banging.
Only took five minutes. However, as I was tightening up some
bolts I
noticed that the steel belts were sticking out on the inside of
the left
rear wheel. VERY BAD. Especially since I had the car over
110mph
an hour before on the autobahn. So I lowered the car and noticed
that
there was a distinct "lean" in on that wheel, almost like the
spring had
broke. I lifted it up again and yanked on the springs, which
all
seemed OK. I then looked at the camber/caster settings. On both
the right and left sides the bolt was turned to its max limit. Since I
can't get an emergency alignment in Germany, I figured I would just put
it back to the 90 deg mark per the manual. When I turned the bolt to
its center position, it actually moved the bottom of the wheel out more,
making the problem worse. The toe in bolts are about two ticks off the
center, I did not move them. So I adjusted the camber (or is it
caster)
on both sides to the factory "center" position and will take it in
this
week and get an alignment. I will get both rear tires
replaced. So
does anybody know what is going on here? This is a
recent problem,
because my old tire did not have this problem. Also, I
have never had
the car aligned, so no one could have screwed it up. Is
there something
else I should be checking? I do not have rear wheel
steering.
Thanks,
Mike Chapleski
'95 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 14:12:28
-0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: turbos
Hey Folks, I'm starting to look at doing preventive
maintanence on my 92
Stealth so it can make it up towards 200k miles. I
don't trust the turbos
to go that far and will replace them by 150k.
What do you think? I can get
a minor upgrade for about $1300.
What other options do I have? Can these
stock units be rebuilt? Anyone
know what stock turbos cost to
replace?
Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:10:14
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.
I told you
guys I would report back on the results of installing the
upgraded (larger
length & diameter) slave cylinder on the clutch of my '95
3000GT VR4. The
object was to improve the shifting on my 6-speed Gertag
transmission.
I
know you are all surprised to hear of someone having problems with
one of
these transmissions, but it is true. At 75,000 miles it was getting
harder
than usual (I believe it is described as notchy) to shift and
sometimes
difficult just to get into 1st and/or reverse. I am used to
American muscle
car transmissions so my Gertag has been a disappointment
thus far for being
able to Speed and/or load shift (change gears with out
taking your foot off
the gas).
The first thing I tried was using a Valvoline synthetic
lubricant
mixed with the lubricant enhancer from Mitsubishi.
This provided
a little improvement with the shifting while moving but did
not help with
putting it into 1st and/or reverse. Before you start flaming
me I have
Redline on order to replace the Valvoline.
The next thing I tried was
installing a larger slave cylinder in the
clutch system. This didn't help as
much as the adjustments the mechanic made
to the shifter mechanism. Once
again slight improvement but not the desired
result.
The next step on the
clutch is to eliminate the "anti-dumping" valve
on the hose to the slave to
allow it to react faster to the pressure from
the master cylinder. This
should help improve the shifting by virtue of the
fact that the clutch will
react faster to the motion of the clutch pedal.
Plus we are going to replace
the stock bushings in the shifter mechanism
with machined delrin bushings. In
addition the mechanic (Rob York) is going
to try a design change on the
shifter mechanism itself.
More to follow as we see if I can get the Gertag to
shift like what
I'm used to in 'vetes, Cameros, Mustangs, etc.
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
While
working on my car Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs
to my turbos (wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial
improvement. One of the other guys that works with him says he
removed the
same thing from his Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does
Mitsubishi equip these cars with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch
from operating to it's full potential ?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:15:43
-0500
From: "Lab Rat" <
labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: turbos
I got my turbos rebuilt for around $280 each, New
seals and bearings.
Check with a local Semi truck dealer. They can
point you to someone who
will rebuild turbos as many many Semi trucks are
turbo charged and easily
run in excess of 800,000 miles. Rebuilding turbos is
not uncommon. I used
Diesel Injection Technologys in Grand Rapids
MI. to rebuild mine.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chip Greenberg
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 4:12 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: turbos
Hey Folks, I'm starting to look at doing preventive
maintanence on my 92
Stealth so it can make it up towards 200k miles. I
don't trust the turbos
to go that far and will replace them by 150k.
What do you think? I can get
a minor upgrade for about $1300.
What other options do I have? Can these
stock units be rebuilt? Anyone
know what stock turbos cost to
replace?
Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:17:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo
question.
Jim,
Can you be more specific on this "pod" and where it
is (was) at?
Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run
to
the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these
hoses
will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening
of
the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
turbos
left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.
Also, I didn't recognize
any "anti-dumping" valve on or near the
clutch hydraulic hose when I replaced
it on my '92 TT. Is it on one
of the pipes maybe? Perhaps this is an item on
newer VR4s? Where
exactly is this valve?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team
3SI'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder
upgrade & turbo question.
<snip>
While working on my car
Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs to my turbos
(wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial improvement. One of the
other guys that works with him
says he removed the same thing from his
Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does Mitsubishi equip these cars
with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch from operating to it's full
potential ?
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:43:28
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Did you leave note on my windshield(non-technical)
- -----
Original Message ----- From: "Gabriel Estrada"
<
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
>
Kinda off topic, but someone left a note on my wifes VR-4 last night.
Just
wanted to know who it might be. You left it on the yellow car at
oak
park mall and left me the
www.3si.com
website. Maybe we can get
together and talk car stuff. Thanks for the
bandwidth...
>
Errrrrr..., Gabe?!? If it was one of the
Team3S members, we would have
left you OUR website URL,
www.Team3S.com (or our identical mirror
site,
www.stealth-3000gt.st)!!! We have
nothing to do with the 3Si website
and they have nothing to do with the
Team3S website (or the Team3S
list). We have a long and friendly
history with 3Si (since we Admins
are among the "founding fathers" of the
group, 3Si), but we have no ties
with that website, and vice-versa. You
might want to familiarize
yourself with OUR website, especially the History
Page, which explains
"who's who" in the 3S community.
Sending a note
about 3Si to the Team3S list is like walking into a Mitsu
dealer and asking,
"Where do you keep the Camaros?" :-) Try the 3Si
posting board,
and ask your question there. Hope you find
him/her...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 19:05:57
-0700
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbos
thanks for the great advise!
Chip
> From:
"Lab Rat" <
labrat101@home.com>
> Date: Wed,
14 Mar 2001 18:15:43 -0500
> To: "Chip Greenberg" <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: turbos
>
> got my turbos rebuilt for around
$280 each, New seals and bearings.
> Check with a local Semi truck
dealer. They can point you to someone who
> will rebuild turbos as
many many Semi trucks are turbo charged and easily
> run in excess of
800,000 miles. Rebuilding turbos is not uncommon. I used
> Diesel
Injection Technologys in Grand Rapids MI. to rebuild
mine.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 00:07:26
-0500
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.
If I had worn valve stem
seals and the engine oiling because of this, would
I see any oil on my plugs.
Just wondering coz I have a problem where it
smokes after idle and I have a
good feeling it's the valve stem seals.
Doing a search, I've found
that you can change the seals without having to
remove the head with the use
of an air compressor used to fill the cylinder
with air in order to keep the
valves from falling.
Just wondering if anyone's ever done this and would
like to give me any
advice, or if anyone would recommend against
this.
Thanks in advance to all responses,
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 00:49:26
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about worn valve stem seals.
You are right, you may have
leaking stem seals. In order to replace them
without removing the head, you
need a "overhead" valve spring compressor.
Whenever i do it, instead of
compressed air, i just thread some 1/8" rope
into the spark plug hole then
turn the crank until the piston presses the
rope against the valve. (when
the crank can't be turned anymore) Then use
the compressor to remove the
spring. Iv'e never done this on a 3000gt
engine however, and some engines
(3000 included?) have recessed springs
which render the "overhead" style
compressor useless because the arms can't
reach into the pocket. I'm pretty
sure you will have to remove the head and
use a conventional spring
compressor, but like i said, i'm unsure.
Wayne
At 10:07 PM
3/14/01 ,
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
wrote:
>Doing a search, I've found that you can change the seals without
having to
>remove the head with the use of an air compressor used to fill
the cylinder
>with air in order to keep the valves from
falling.
>
>Just wondering if anyone's ever done this and would like
to give me any
>advice, or if anyone would recommend against
this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:43:32
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.
> Can
you be more specific on this "pod" and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what
was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go
to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these hoses
> will only serve
to increase boost (or at least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I
have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so
I can't look for this item.
I think he's referring to the restriction
orifice in the input nipple of the
boost control solenoid. Taking that
out gives a few extra PSI of boost and
a little quicker spoolup since it
bleeds off more pressure from the
wastegate lines. I've posted about it
a few times, check the archives for
details.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:58:36
-0500
From: "
ukyo@speedfactory.net" <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Air charger whistle?
After I put my air charger on my VR4 last
weekend I noticed a whistle
in it when I would let off the throttle. I
took the filter and MAS
off and inspected the connecting surfaces for dips or
imperfections
that could lead to a leak but I didn't find anything. I
put the
filter and MAS back in (making sure all the clamps were tight)
and
then cranked the car. It still whistles. Is this normal for
the
larger air charger element, or is there some other defective part
that
is causing this? It only whistles when the throttle is let
off.
The FIPK on my base coupe does not make any sound apart from
sucking
in the air.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator
Bottle / Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (K&N Air charger
/Green)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:13:30
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
>then cranked the car. It still
whistles. Is this normal for the
>larger air charger element, or is
there some other defective part
>that is causing this? It only
whistles when the throttle is let off.
> The FIPK on my base coupe
does not make any sound apart from sucking
>in the air.
Yep,
everythign ok. Your faster car as a bypass valve that routes
pressurized air
back to the intake to prevent backpressure to the turbos.
This is what you
hear. You may also be prepared for the honking goose sound
(or owl sound)
soon as the stock valve leaks a little. No problem too but a
little annoying
sound (some like it).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:14:49
-0500
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
Travis,
You are probably getting
the notorious "honking goose" sound that is common
with these types of air
filters when used in combination with the stock BOV.
As I understand it (and
someone please correct me if this is not right), as
long as it makes the
noise only when you close the throttle (when the BOV is
supposed to "blow")
then you are OK. If it is "honking" before you close
the throttle, it
is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and you may
want to check into
the DSM BOV mod.
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
ukyo@speedfactory.netSent: Thursday,
March 15, 2001 09:59
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Air charger whistle?
After I put my air charger on my VR4
last weekend I noticed a whistle
in it when I would let off the
throttle. I took the filter and MAS
off and inspected the connecting
surfaces for dips or imperfections
that could lead to a leak but I didn't
find anything. I put the
filter and MAS back in (making sure all the
clamps were tight) and
then cranked the car. It still whistles.
Is this normal for the
larger air charger element, or is there some other
defective part
that is causing this? It only whistles when the throttle
is let off.
The FIPK on my base coupe does not make any sound apart
from sucking
in the air.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator
Bottle / Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (K&N Air charger
/Green)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:14:30
-0800
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Heat
Shield
Was the design flaw on the short heat shield (attached to the
inner hood)
ever corrected? Or, is the resolution to the problem to buy a new
heat
blanket (also attached to the inner hood) every few years, after
engine
heat deteriorates the silver coating and it begins flaking
off.
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:27:06
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
>As I understand it (and someone
please correct me if this is not right), as
>long as it makes the noise
only when you close the throttle (when the BOV is
>supposed to "blow")
then you are OK. If it is "honking" before you close
>the throttle,
it is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and you may
>want to
check into the DSM BOV mod.
It may honk only on part
throttle.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:50:24
-0800
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air
charger whistle?
>
> >As I understand it (and someone please
correct me if this is not right),
as
> >long as it makes the noise
only when you close the throttle (when the BOV
is
> >supposed to
"blow") then you are OK. If it is "honking" before you close
>
>the throttle, it is relieving pressure before it is supposed to and
you
may
> >want to check into the DSM BOV mod.
>
> It
may honk only on part throttle.
>
...Or it may not honk at all
and you are a lucky one ;-) The
characteristics of different TT cars
and different generations may not
necessarily make this honking sound a
prerequisite. Most already know this
from past discussion, but this thread
implies that the honking sound is
always at open or part throttle. It may not
be honk at all and you have
lucked out
;-)
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:51:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.
I am
hoping Jim can help me and us out with my questions. I'm still
wondering
about the "anti-dumping valve".
But in the mean time, I just removed the
stock boost controller (it
is of no use to me) and carefully inspected it.
There is indeed a
"plug" that is about 0.2 inches long in the lower nipple
that reduces
the ID from about 0.140 inch to about 0.055 inch (an over 600%
change
in cross-sectional area). A dental cleaning pick nicely removes
the
plug without damage to it or the nipple.
The lower nipple of the
BC is a far cry from "a restriction "pod" on
the vacuum line that runs to my
turbos".
Thanks, Matt.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:43 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder
upgrade & turbo question.
> Can you be more specific on this "pod"
and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what was the improvement? The only
"vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go to the wastegates and any
"restriction" in these
hoses
> will only serve to increase boost (or at
least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I have none of the stock
"vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this
item.
I think he's referring to the restriction orifice in the input
nipple
of the boost control solenoid. Taking that out gives a few extra
PSI
of boost and a little quicker spoolup since it bleeds off
more
pressure from the wastegate lines. I've posted about it a few
times,
check the archives for details.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:01:11
-0500
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: speaking of whistle...
It seems that my Stealth is falling
apart... Now at the lower RPMs, or when
just idling I hear (not always, but
very often) a very high pitched monotone
whistle. It is coming out of the
engine, but I really can't determine where
from since the frequency is quite
high. It is a base 92 Stealth, with FIPK
(I had FIPK for a while and never
made a noise like that before). The
problem begun when I had my car sitting
for a 3 weeks without driving it
(since I got a new ride). Since then I
changed the battery and oil + oil
filter. Whenever I step on the throttle the
noise goes away, and when RPMs
get lower I can hear it again. And let me tell
you, this noise mixed with my
brake squeal is quite an experience while
"driving" in stop and go, bumper
to bumper traffic. Any ideas?
Thank
you,
Dusan
92 Stealth (base,
automatic)
FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:06:43
-0500
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
Guys,
If you have a BOV that
doesn't make any noise when you close the throttle or
at part throttle, how
do you know that it is working? Darc, do you mean
that some make noise
but not the honking noise, or that some make no noise
at all?
Just
curious.
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
...Or it may not
honk at all and you are a lucky one ;-) The
characteristics of
different TT cars and different generations may not
necessarily make this
honking sound a prerequisite. Most already know this
from past discussion,
but this thread implies that the honking sound is
always at open or part
throttle. It may not be honk at all and you have
lucked out
;-)
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:26:14
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question -
response
Jeff,
The improvement (seat of pants) was that the
acceleration was better
from a standing start. It is as if the turbos were
coming on sooner and
providing more torque at lower RPM. It now feels like a
V-8 coming off the
line instead of a little six I had to wind way up and
feather the clutch to
launch.
My 3000GT VR4 is a 1995.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob,
Can
you provide a more detailed description of the "restriction pod"
you and Andy
removed from these Mitsubishi cars ?
Also give a specific description of the
location of the
"anti-dumping valve" you are going to remove.
Everyone
would appreciate it. We are all "way into" these
cars.
Thanks.
- -----Original
Message-----------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff
Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 6:18
PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo
question.
Jim,
Can you be more specific on this "pod" and
where it is (was) at?
Also, what was the improvement? The only "vacuum" hoses
that run to
the turbos go to the wastegates and any "restriction" in these
hoses
will only serve to increase boost (or at least delay the opening
of
the wastegates). I have none of the stock "vacuum" lines to the
turbos
left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this item.
Also, I didn't recognize
any "anti-dumping" valve on or near the
clutch hydraulic hose when I replaced
it on my '92 TT. Is it on one
of the pipes maybe? Perhaps this is an item on
newer VR4s? Where
exactly is this valve?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team
3SI'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder
upgrade & turbo question.
<snip>
While working on my car
Rob found a restriction "pod" on the vacuum
line that runs to my turbos
(wastegate ?) He removed it and it made a
substantial improvement. One of the
other guys that works with him
says he removed the same thing from his
Eclipse and his 3000GT VR4.
Question - why does Mitsubishi equip these cars
with equipment that
keeps the engine or clutch from operating to it's full
potential ?
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:32:13
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question &
answers.
Matt,
That may be what Rob was talking about. I was using
his terminology
since I didn't see the item for myself. Not that I would have
been any more
accurate as I am mechanically and technically
challenged.
That is why I am on here learning from you guys. You
wouldn't
believe what a blessing a site like this is for someone like me.
Thanks to
everyone who shares the information from their trials and
tribulations of
dealing with these cars.
It is truly a love/hate
relationship.
Jim
- -----Original
Message----------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:52 AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder upgrade & turbo question.
I am
hoping Jim can help me and us out with my questions. I'm still
wondering
about the "anti-dumping valve".
But in the mean time, I just removed the
stock boost controller (it
is of no use to me) and carefully inspected it.
There is indeed a
"plug" that is about 0.2 inches long in the lower nipple
that reduces
the ID from about 0.140 inch to about 0.055 inch (an over 600%
change
in cross-sectional area). A dental cleaning pick nicely removes
the
plug without damage to it or the nipple.
The lower nipple of the
BC is a far cry from "a restriction "pod" on
the vacuum line that runs to my
turbos".
Thanks, Matt.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:43 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch slave cylinder
upgrade & turbo question.
> Can you be more specific on this "pod"
and where it is (was) at?
> Also, what was the improvement? The only
"vacuum" hoses that run to
> the turbos go to the wastegates and any
"restriction" in these
hoses
> will only serve to increase boost (or at
least delay the opening of
> the wastegates). I have none of the stock
"vacuum" lines to the
> turbos left on my '92 TT so I can't look for this
item.
I think he's referring to the restriction orifice in the input
nipple
of the boost control solenoid. Taking that out gives a few extra
PSI
of boost and a little quicker spoolup since it bleeds off
more
pressure from the wastegate lines. I've posted about it a few
times,
check the archives for details.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:45:53
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air charger whistle?
> > It may honk only on part
throttle.
> >
>
>...Or it may not honk at all and you are a
lucky one ;-)
Yep, mine never did this until I changed the vales location
a little. Then
I was really surprised to hear it :)
>from past
discussion, but this thread implies that the honking sound is
>always at
open or part throttle. It may not be honk at all and you
have
>lucked out ;-)
I think it's better to say the sound appears
under a specific LOAD. It
seems that it is at a specific amount of air where
it becomes in resonance
with the piping lenght of the BPV. Sounds strange
but we have no other
explanation yet.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:47:27
-0800
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air
charger whistle?
Mark;
Some make no noise at all. No honking
noise, and no whistle to speak of. The
whistle may be heard if you listen
really close, as on mine, but I have to
be paying more attention to
listening for it than to my driving ;-)
I replied to Rogers original post
on this but inadvertently hit reply rather
than reply to all, which would
have posted to the list. So I will post his
response to me back here for your
information. It reaffirms what I have have
just . I trust you do not mind eh
Roger ;-)).
>Roger... do I assume this means lack of the whistling
sound is also okay
>with this installation?
Yes, no problem. I
learned that it highly depends on how much the BPV is
pushed into the bottom
of the intake rubber part. I had the FIPK for a long
time and never
experienced the goose under the hood. I then changed to the
HKS and later
went back and voila, got the goose as well as some BOV
like
sound.
>The honking goose may or may not appear with
this
>installation as has been discussed at length previously. However,
absence
or
>presence of this whistle has never been discussed to
the same length. Must
>it be present, or like the GOOSE, is it a matter of
being noticeable on
some
>cars and not on others?
I never
heard the blow off sound on my car (i.e whistle) but of course it
became more
noticeable the higher the boost was cranked (more blow off)
Later,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#436
*********************