team3s
Wednesday, March 7
2001 Volume 01
: Number
429
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Mar 2001 22:21:33 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock amp (under dash)...
Jeff Crabtree
wrote:
> I'll have to scan these pages in and
post them as .jpg files. I'll try
> to get this done tomorrow first
thing.
>
For those hanging on the edges of their seats waiting for
me to do what I said
I would, sorry. I got busy today. I'll be
sure it gets done tomorrow.
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 22:41:32
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?
Well I was having both the
sorta "miss" in 2nd at about 4,000 RPM under WOT,
and then again in 3rd at
about 3-4K..... Then while in Kansas City I was
cruising at about 75-80 in
5th and hit the gas to pass a few cars and the
RPM's jumped to about 6500 RPM
with only a 10 Mph increase in speed ... humm
my guess was a bad clutch and
after checking with the dealership locally it
was confirmed. Well I had them
replace the clutch (620 bucks, but they have
done really good work on the car
and actually seem to care about what they
are doing) and no more problems in
5th (testing after putting an easy ..
well as easy as I could 3-4K miles on
the car). But under WOT in 2nd and 3rd
I'm still getting the "miss" that
seems like it could be a clutch slip ..
but I can't see any RPM increase that
is off from the change in velocity. So
since I've got 113K miles I'm going to
try new plugs/wires, and in 7K miles
go in for another 60K mile service.
Belts, water pump, injector cleaning etc
..... gag I need to learn how to
work on this turbo motor I just don't want
to mess it up :)... I love driving
it too much.
Anyhow, my guess is you don't have a clutch prob, you
probably have the
same problem I do and hopefully one of us will find
it.
Eric Cheek 92 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
ukyo@speedfactory.netSent: Tuesday,
March 06, 2001 8:08 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: What are some symptoms of misfire?
*First let me apologize
for the basic questions contained here*
What does it feel like when your
plugs fail to fire correctly? Could
it make the engine "skip" a little,
but only under load? Would it
feel a little like multiple split second
hesitations? Could it be
mistaken by someone who has never, *NEVER* had
a slipping clutch as
cluth slip?
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base +
K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with
basically new engine / Green)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 22:27:22
-0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Racing seats mounting (OT)
> What specific problems did
you have with the stock sliders? Were they
> just too difficult to
remove from the stock seat, or to install on the
> new seat? Was the
seat too high using the stock sliders? I'm in the
> process of doing
exactly what you've done - I'm trying to put a Sparco
> seat in my
VR-4. If I use the Sparco mount, base & sliders, it will be
>
way too high, so I was hoping maybe the stock sliders would be lower
>
since they are integrated with the base.
> -Steve
> '92
VR-4
The stock sliders are intergrated into the stock seat. Unbolt a TON
of stuff
to remove it. Its a pain but it isn't that hard. Once it's out, the
real
ordeal begins. First thing I noticed is that the bolts sticking up from
the
sliders, of course do not match up with the mounting holes on the
Sparco
side mount base. You'll need to drill out new mount holes. Next, the
seat is
too narrow for the width of the rails. I eneded up mounting one side
mount
base backwards from the other. This narrowed the width perfectly. Now
the
fun part. The slider actuator on the stock sliders exit out the
side. Also,
the actuator mechanism on the left side sticks up and interferes
with the
left Sparco side mount bracket. In order to keep the slider
mechanism in its
spot, I had to cut a slot in the Sparco side mount bracket
to clear the
slider actuator. The right side slider has a metal cover that I
had to grind
off so the Sparco side mount bracket would sit on the slider
flat. Ok, now
the seat can be installed. I put everything in and notice that
the seat was
not level side to side! Appearantly, one slider is higher than
the other! Oh
well, I adjusted that out with the various mounting holes on
the Sparco side
mount base. After all that is when I realized that it sat way
too high, even
adjusted to the lowest mounting holes that I could put the
seat at and still
clear the slider actuator. I MIGHT try to relocate the
slider actuator or
different things to make the seat lower but I'll probably
just end up
bolting the Sparco side mount base to the floor and not have and
sliders....
Oh well
Hoser
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 00:04:55
-0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: air escape
First, I'm sorry about my english, I speak spanish
but
I'll try to do my best...
Since I bought my 95 GT VR4, it makes a
noise when the
turbos start working. The noise seems to come from
under
the dash, on the left side of the car, and it is
bigger when you push the
throtle, and it dissapears as
soon as you release the throtle.
I feel the
car is slower than my former 3000 VR4, wich
was a 93 model, even when my
actual car has 20 more
horses.
The noise sounds like an Air leak, and I
even can feel
the air in my left leg sometimes when accelerating
the
car.
I tried changing the clutch pump (the one behind the
clutch
pedal), checking the hoses, and nothing, it is
always the same.
Another
thing I notice is a smell like gas, not too
strong, but it is like that.
I
need some help here please.
Thanks a lot,
Raul Cinelli from
Argentina
95 3000 GT VR4
white
pearl
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 00:42:45
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: swirl polished valves
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim
Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
>
I'm going to try this one again --- I got no response the first time,
but
I
> can't beleive that nobody knows the answer.
>
> > I've
seen reference to swirl polished valves lately ---- what is it,
> >
what is the benefit and what should it cost [ assuming you have
>
> the valves out of the heads].
> >
Ya got me too...
I've heard of them for years (among the Camaro,
Firebird, Mustang and rebuilt
Hemi crowd). But as to exactly *what* is
different about swirl
polishing, I'll have to defer to the engine
rebuilders on the list.
These are replacements, and AFAIK, you can't
get it done to "stockers".
Competition valves are made out of stainless
steel - manufactured from
hardened 4N stainless alloys to control
stress, and that the heads are "swirl
polished", but that's the extent
of my knowledge. Most of the apps I've
ever seen have said that they're
not legal in emission-controlled vehicles,
so it sounds like race-crowd
only stuff...
Best I can do - just so ya
know we're not ignoring you...
:-)
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 02:16:20
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
swirl polished valves
Swirl polishing promotes gas directional flow
across the valve. It is often
done to the tulip area of the
valve. I have no idea what it costs. It is
likely worth it if you
already have the head apart. Questionable as to
noticable differences
without other mods. The stock heads already flow
better than the rest
of the engine can support without excessive mods. That
being said, why
not do it while the engine is opened up if it is
affordable.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Berry
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:22 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: swirl polished valves
>
>
> I'm going to
try this one again --- I got no response the first
> time, but I
>
can't beleive that nobody knows the answer.
>
> > I've seen
reference to swirl polished valves lately ---- what is it,
> > what is
the benefit and what should it cost [ assuming you have
> > the
valves out of the heads].
> >
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 01:17:35
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
>>> I need some help please!
2,000 miles ago, the thermostat of my '95
VR4 was broken. I couldn't get one
here in south america so I decide to
take it off and I continued using my car
without any temperature problem
for the last 2,000 miles, but yesterday, the
temperature started to go
higher and higher. I checked the water level
in the jar and in the
radiator and they are Ok. I also checked the radiator
fans and they are
working right. The water pump is not leaking. Can you
please tell me
what can be causing this problem. Thanks a lot.
Raul
Cinelli, Argentina 95 3000 GT VR4<<<
The thermostat
is there only to allow the engine to warm up when you
first start it.
This is most useful in cold climates, so driving with
no thermostat shouldn't
be a problem in Argentina. It probably has
nothing to do with your
overheating. Have you done a complete cooling
system flush? If
the car is overheating, something is blocking the
normal flow of
coolant. If you use the air conditioner while sitting at
idle in
stalled traffic on a hot day, overheating can occur if there is
even a
partial blockage of the coolant flow. Try revving the engine
higher in
neutral whenever you have to stop, and leave the A/C off while
it's
happening. And check the water pump & belt again.
Good
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 07:11:37
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
I don't believe this is 100%
correct. The thermostat does have one other
purpose. Aside from
giving the coolant in the block a chance to warm up on
cold days, it gives
the coolant in the radiator a chance to cool down. I
know a lot of
racers that have tried to use extremely low temp thermostats
only to find out
they make the system run hotter. Anything less than about
a 165-170
degree thermostat is going to cause problems.
-
-John
SNIP
The thermostat is there only to allow the engine to
warm up when you
first start it. This is most useful in cold climates,
so driving
with
no thermostat shouldn't be a problem in Argentina.
It probably has
nothing to do with your overheating.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 08:53:52
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
> The thermostat does have one
other purpose. Aside from
> giving the coolant in the block a chance
to warm up on
> cold days, it gives the coolant in the radiator a chance
to
> cool down. I know a lot of racers that have tried to
>
use extremely low temp thermostats only to find out they
> make the system
run hotter. Anything less than about
> a 165-170 degree thermostat
is going to cause problems.
Lower temp thermostats also hold the
ECU in closed-loop mode while it tries
to warm the motor up to operating
temperature, causing a loss in fuel
economy and further richening the
mixture. Tried it on my Eclipse GSX and
gas mileage went from 20 MPG to
13 MPG. I'd guess a 3/S car would react
similarly since the ECUs are
basically the same.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:00:43
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Two questions. Is the K&N FIPK worth fitting? Do
you loose any thing in the
conversion? Ok three questions. Any Web sites with
detailed fitting
instructions?
UK price is £240 ($352.35) shipped to
Belfast any better price in US shipped
to UK? (OK 4 maths was never my strong
point :)
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 10:10:29
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Two answers. Yes. No, you gain some
cheap horses and a novel sounding "owl
hoot" or "goose honk" until you also
replace the stock BOV (blow off valve).
Okay, two non-answers. I don't
know a Web site for removing the stock air
box and installing the K&N,
but there has always been a lot of discussion
about it. That seems
pricey, but I don't have an American price handy.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: George Shaw [
SMTP:george.shaw@btinternet.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:01 AM
> To: Team3S Technical
Forum
> Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
>
> Two questions. Is
the K&N FIPK worth fitting? Do you loose any thing in
> the
>
conversion? Ok three questions. Any Web sites with detailed fitting
>
instructions?
>
> UK price is £240 ($352.35) shipped to Belfast any
better price in US
> shipped
> to UK? (OK 4 maths was never my
strong point :)
>
>
> --
>
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com>
EMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
> Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
>
ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:04:46
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
Would it help my Summer vapor lock problem
(occurs when the car sits
a while after being driven) to remove the
insulation on the under side of
the hood ? Would I be at risk for
having the paint ruined from the engine
heat with the under hood insulation
gone ?
Thanks.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[
mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:18 AM
To: raul cinelli; Team3S
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
>>> I need some help
please! 2,000 miles ago, the thermostat of my '95
VR4 was broken. I couldn't
get one here in south america so I decide to
take it off and I continued
using my car without any temperature problem
for the last 2,000 miles, but
yesterday, the temperature started to go
higher and higher. I checked
the water level in the jar and in the
radiator and they are Ok. I also
checked the radiator fans and they are
working right. The water pump is not
leaking. Can you please tell me
what can be causing this problem.
Thanks a lot.
Raul Cinelli, Argentina 95 3000 GT
VR4<<<
The thermostat is there only to allow the engine to warm
up when you
first start it. This is most useful in cold climates, so
driving with
no thermostat shouldn't be a problem in Argentina. It
probably has
nothing to do with your overheating. Have you done a
complete cooling
system flush? If the car is overheating, something is
blocking the
normal flow of coolant. If you use the air conditioner
while sitting at
idle in stalled traffic on a hot day, overheating can occur
if there is
even a partial blockage of the coolant flow. Try revving
the engine
higher in neutral whenever you have to stop, and leave the A/C off
while
it's happening. And check the water pump & belt
again.
Good luck!
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 10:05:43
-0600
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
If I remember correctly, on e-bay right now
there is a guy doing a dutch
auction for the k&n fipk kit for $134 u.s.
plus shipping. Is that a good
price??? Let me know anyone's
thoughts.
Thanks,
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales
Director
McCarthy Automotive Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Nissan,
Mitsubishi, and Hyundai
913-269-7365
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:10 AM
To:
'george.shaw@btinternet.com';
Team3S Technical Forum
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Two
answers. Yes. No, you gain some cheap horses and a novel sounding
"owl
hoot" or "goose honk" until you also replace the stock BOV (blow off
valve).
Okay, two non-answers. I don't know a Web site for removing the
stock air
box and installing the K&N, but there has always been a lot of
discussion
about it. That seems pricey, but I don't have an American
price handy.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: George Shaw [
SMTP:george.shaw@btinternet.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:01 AM
> To: Team3S Technical
Forum
> Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
>
> Two questions. Is
the K&N FIPK worth fitting? Do you loose any thing in
> the
>
conversion? Ok three questions. Any Web sites with detailed fitting
>
instructions?
>
> UK price is £240 ($352.35) shipped to Belfast any
better price in US
> shipped
> to UK? (OK 4 maths was never my
strong point :)
>
>
> --
>
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com>
EMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
> Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
>
ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 10:18:06
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Temperature problems
1st time I recall hearing anyone report
a vapor lock problem with a 3000GT.
Is this a VR4 or not?
I think your
hood paint will definitely suffer without the insulation.
What region of
the country are you in?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [
SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:05 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
>
>
> Would it help my Summer
vapor lock problem (occurs when the car sits
> a while after being driven)
to remove the insulation on the under side of
> the hood ? Would I
be at risk for having the paint ruined from the engine
> heat with the
under hood insulation gone ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:19:40
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
The instructions in my K&N FIPK were for a
3000GT (the pictures even had the
exact same engine bay with the Mitsubishi
on the plenum and everything). It
is a direct bolt-on procedure with
all hardware (no drilling).
It does allow the engine to breathe
better. It does claim to add 2-5 hp on
stock setup but overall I
believe it is better.
Other systems that do not pull air from the engine
bay are better or cool it
first, but that was not your question.
I
lost my detailed pictures but I think on Lucius or the Team3S page it
shows
the real PITA stock bolts on the stock airbox. Good luck. We
all
went through the same steps.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/K&N
FIPK
- -----Original Message-----
From: George Shaw [
mailto:george.shaw@btinternet.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:01 AM
To: Team3S Technical Forum
Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Two questions. Is the K&N FIPK worth
fitting? Do you loose any thing in the
conversion? Ok three questions. Any
Web sites with detailed fitting
instructions?
UK price is £240
($352.35) shipped to Belfast any better price in US shipped
to UK? (OK 4
maths was never my strong point :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 10:30:38
-0600
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
$134.00 is a pretty good price for the FIPK. Below
is a link to a site with a number of photo illustrated maintenance procedures
for the 3/S owner. The FIPK install is one of them.
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htmHope
this helps,
Craig
>>> "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
03/07/01 10:00AM >>>
Two questions. Is the K&N FIPK worth
fitting? Do you loose any thing in the
conversion? Ok three questions. Any
Web sites with detailed fitting
instructions?
UK price is £240
($352.35) shipped to Belfast any better price in US shipped
to UK? (OK 4
maths was never my strong point :)
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com
EMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com
Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:32:47
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
Chuck,
I live around Boulder, CO and
I use my VR4 to get to my home in the
mountains after the snow storms.
The
fact that it goes really fast has nothing to do with why I
bought it. (my
wife believed it when I told her that)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:18 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; Team3S
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Temperature problems
1st time I recall hearing anyone report
a vapor lock problem with a 3000GT.
Is this a VR4 or not?
I think your
hood paint will definitely suffer without the insulation.
What region of
the country are you in?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [
SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:05 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
>
>
> Would it help my Summer
vapor lock problem (occurs when the car sits
> a while after being driven)
to remove the insulation on the under side of
> the hood ? Would I
be at risk for having the paint ruined from the engine
> heat with the
under hood insulation gone ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 08:34:00
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
I guess a thermostat (of some sort)
IS necessary in the loop-- I stand
corrected. Perhaps a member
who is about to place a parts order can add
a thermostat to it, and contact
Raul in Argentina (privately) and
arrange to send him one from the
US.(?)
A quick check of the Search Page turned up 25 past threads
on
"thermostat". I didn't read all the entries, but I copied
Lynn
Larsen's reply from 2 years ago, since it appears to add more
useful
info. I've repeated the entire reply thread, below, followed by
Lynn's
'99 post (for ease in future archives...):
From: "Bob Forrest"
<
bf@bobforrest.com>
>>>
The thermostat is there only to allow the engine to warm up when you
first
start it. This is most useful in cold climates, so driving with no
thermostat
shouldn't be a problem in Argentina. It probably has nothing
to do with
your overheating.<<<
>
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
> I don't
believe this is 100% correct. The thermostat does have one
other
purpose.
Aside from giving the coolant in the block a chance to warm up on
cold
days, it gives the coolant in the radiator a chance to cool down.
I
know a lot of racers that have tried to use extremely low
temp
thermostats only to find out they make the system run hotter.
Anything
less than about a 165-170 degree thermostat is going to
cause
problems.<<<
>
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
Lower temp thermostats also hold the ECU in closed-loop mode while it
tries
to warm the motor up to operating temperature, causing a loss in
fuel economy
and further richening the mixture. Tried it on my Eclipse
GSX and gas
mileage went from 20 MPG to 13 MPG. I'd guess a 3/S car
would react
similarly since the ECUs are basically the
same.<<<
>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 08:53:47 -0500
From:
William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Thermostat
Whatever you do, don't go with no thermostat, even with
"Detroit Iron",
as the end result is that the coolant passes through the
block so fast
that it doesn't have time to pick up enough heat to cool the
engine
properly. Even when no thermostat is used, a restrictor needs to
be put
in its place to slow the
flow.
Regards,
Lynn
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:10:45
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Will carparts ship to UK? If so wait until there's a
deal. Check on
www.importhookup.com
for latest deals. With the 50% coupon I bought mine at
around $75.00. That is
a good deal. ;) I don't think they do the 50% any
more but they do I think up
to 33%. Either way it's more of a savings than
you are currently looking at.
The instructions are in the box. No need for
anything more. It's very
straight forward. The only thing they don't mention
in the actual
instructions is how much of a bitch it is to remove those
little nuts that
hold the ECU on. You can see some of my horror here...
http://www.bart.kurek.com/photo/3000gt.htm
Good luck. You'll like it.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric
Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart_kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
$134.00 is a pretty good price for the FIPK. Below is a link to
a site with
a number of photo illustrated maintenance procedures for the 3/S
owner. The
FIPK install is one of them.
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htmHope
this helps,
Craig
>>> "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
03/07/01 10:00AM >>>
Two questions. Is the K&N FIPK worth
fitting? Do you loose any thing in the
conversion? Ok three questions. Any
Web sites with detailed fitting
instructions?
UK price is £240
($352.35) shipped to Belfast any better price in US shipped
to UK? (OK 4
maths was never my strong point :)
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
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*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 09:22:27
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Temperature problems
Jim,
When you say "vapor lock",
what symptoms do you have to lead you to this
diagnosis?
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
>>>
"Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com> - 3/7/01 8:32 AM
>>>
Chuck,
I live around Boulder, CO and I use my VR4
to get to my home in the
mountains after the snow storms.
The fact
that it goes really fast has nothing to do with why I
bought it. (my wife
believed it when I told her that)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:18 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; Team3S
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Temperature problems
1st time I recall hearing anyone report
a vapor lock problem with a 3000GT.
Is this a VR4 or not?
I think your
hood paint will definitely suffer without the insulation.
What region of
the country are you in?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [
SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:05 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
>
>
> Would it help my
Summer vapor lock problem (occurs when the car sits
> a while after being
driven) to remove the insulation on the under side of
> the hood ?
Would I be at risk for having the paint ruined from the engine
> heat with
the under hood insulation gone ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:10:47
-0500
From: "
ukyo@speedfactory.net" <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Not always true...
I have the novel
owl hoot and I haven't even got my K&N from
Wrenchead yet. I don't
think the intake filter causes the hoot. I
think it all comes down to
the proper adjustment of the BOV. Of
course, I could be wrong.
;)
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
'94 3000GT VR4 (Stock with basically new engine / Green)
At
Wed, 7 Mar 2001 10:10:29 -0600 , you wrote:
>Two answers. Yes.
No, you gain some cheap horses and a novel
sounding "owl
>hoot" or
"goose honk" until you also replace the stock BOV (blow
off
valve).
>Okay, two non-answers. I don't know a Web site for
removing the
stock air
>box and installing the K&N, but there has
always been a lot of
discussion
>about it. That seems pricey, but
I don't have an American price
handy.
>
>Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 09:49:19
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Temperature problems
Jim,
I've been having a
similar problem.
When restarting the car after driving for awhile, I will
have a rather lumpy idle, ie., it hunts for a couple of minutes before smoothing
out. I have to give it some gas to avoid stalling.
I had the throttle
body cleaned, injectors/fuel system flushed, and then the Crank Angle Sensor
swapped out. Still occurs intermittently, and now I have a lead that it may be
the "blades" which the crank angle sensor reads. I am still researching the
"blades" at this point to find the exact part, and possible root cause, of the
failure.
I'll keep you informed. I have the 3SI manuals on CD, so if I
have a spare few minuted this morning, I'll post my
findings!
Regards,
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
>>>
"Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com> - 3/7/01 9:23 AM
>>>
When trying to start after having been driven in
warm/hot weather
(and sitting for about 30-45 min.) I have to crank it many
times for 3 to 4
min. to get it to start. It acts like it is starved for
fuel, in that it
tries to start firing a little more each time you crank it.
Finally it runs
really rough until you can slowly get the RPM up to about
1,500 and then it
straightens out and runs fine.
What do you
think ?
- -----Original
Message-----------------------------------------------------
From: Daniel
Jett [
mailto:djett@corp.ultratech.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:22 AM
To:
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Temperature problems
Jim,
When you say "vapor lock",
what symptoms occur to lead you to this
diagnosis?
Regards,
Dan
Jett
94 Stealth TT
>>> "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com> - 3/7/01 8:32 AM
>>>
Chuck,
I live around Boulder, CO and I use my VR4
to get to my home in the
mountains after the snow storms.
The fact
that it goes really fast has nothing to do with why I
bought it. (my wife
believed it when I told her that)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:18 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; Team3S
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Temperature problems
1st time I recall hearing anyone report
a vapor lock problem with a 3000GT.
Is this a VR4 or not?
I think your
hood paint will definitely suffer without the insulation.
What region of
the country are you in?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [
SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:05 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Temperature problems
>
>
> Would it help my
Summer vapor lock problem (occurs when the car sits
> a while after being
driven) to remove the insulation on the under side of
> the hood ?
Would I be at risk for having the paint ruined from the engine
> heat with
the under hood insulation gone ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
!
!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:23:09
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject: Re:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
It also is worth mentioning that there is a
K&N filter designed for the 2nd gen Eclipse (DSM) cars that also fits out
cars. It's called the Aircharger, I think. It needs a modified bracket, has an
extra bolt stud sticking out of an obvious place and doesn't come with a
cleaning kit, but otherwise is a great deal at about $45. Its also bit larger
than the FIPK, which some have said helps. It also doesn't have a CARB sticker,
but that doesn't matter as you arent in the US.
Ron
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:22:51
-0500
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
>Any Web sites with detailed fitting
instructions?
http://mi3si.org/techdata/knairfilter.htmThis
is my first stab at the k&n install page their might be some errors.
But,
the install is pretty basic and this should be enough.
Alan
alan92rttt@mi3si.orgwww.mi3si.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:56:30
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
WOW! Thanks to all that replied Thanks for the
info. I wanted to print it
out to read on my trip to Dublin tomorrow, hence
the request for a Web site.
Looks like I will buy one from the USA given the
prices you guys are being
asked. Again thanks to all who
replied.
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Alan Sheffield
Sent: 07 March 2001 16:23
To: Team3S Technical
Forum
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
>Any Web sites with
detailed fitting instructions?
http://mi3si.org/techdata/knairfilter.htmThis
is my first stab at the k&n install page their might be some errors.
But,
the install is pretty basic and this should be enough.
Alan
alan92rttt@mi3si.orgwww.mi3si.org*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:31:46
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Newbie temperature problems
I agree with John, but in addition to not
allowing the water enough time to
sufficiently cool in the radiator, by not
having a thermostat can also allow
the water to flow too quickly through the
engine. By having the water flow
too quickly through the engine you
will not achieve a good heat transfer
from the engine to the water or
coolant.
Most race cars have an electric water pump either hooked to a
thermostat or
a switch. They don't use a conventional water pump
because it does creat
some drag on the engine since it's normally being
operated off the crank via
a belt.
Dave Best
http://davebest.topcities.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:36:03
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Carparts ships to the UK, 17% VAT will be added,
no 50%, no 30% no 20%
couponsm are available right now :(
I do have
the airchargers on stock in Switzerland.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
An: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 7. März 2001 18:10
Betreff: Re: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Will carparts ship to UK? If so wait until there's a deal.
Check on
>
www.importhookup.com
for latest deals. With the 50% coupon I bought mine
at
> around $75.00.
That is a good deal. ;) I don't think they do the 50% any
> more but they
do I think up to 33%. Either way it's more of a savings than
> you are
currently looking at. The instructions are in the box. No need for
>
anything more. It's very straight forward. The only thing they
don't
mention
> in the actual instructions is how much of a bitch it is
to remove those
> little nuts that hold the ECU on. You can see some of my
horror here...
>
http://www.bart.kurek.com/photo/3000gt.htm
Good luck. You'll like it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:54:34
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE:Team3S: Newbie temperature problems
Maybe now, the water is flowing
too quickly to be cooled down enough
by the radiator? Maybe your water pump
is "cavitating"? I would
install a new one, I'm sure you can get one mailed
to you from someone
on the list, or through a vendor (connicelli,
tallahassee, etc).
I'm not sure, but since no one else seemed to
answer... that's my 2
cents.
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
>I need some help please! 2,000 miles ago,
the
>thermostat of my '95 VR4 was broken. I couldn't get
>one here
in south america so I decide to take it off
>and I continued using my car
without any temperature
>problem for the last 2,000 miles, but yesterday,
the
>temperature started to go higher and higher.
>I checked the
water level in the jar and in the
>radiator and they are Ok. I also
checked the radiator
>fans and they are working right.
>The water
pump is not leaking.
>Can you please tell me what can be causing
this
>problem.
>Thanks a lot.
>Raul Cinelli
>95 3000
GT VR4
>Argentina
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 23:10:44
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Basics
All right list, I need some help, especially from you
gurus, Roger, Bob, Matt (and anyone else I forgot -- those three just answer my
questions most often). My little brother recently purchased a 97 Eclipse
GS-T Spyder and had a few questions about turbo cars. I found myself
shocked when I realized one question I could answer, but not give him any
technical background on, and the other I really had no clue.
The first
question he asked me was what is knock. I was able to give him a basic
definition of what knock is and a "laymans terms" of what causes it, but I
really don't know any of the technical info on it. Can any of you gurus
give me the tech info behind knock - what it is and its results on the
engine?
The second question he asked was about better gas mileage on
turbo cars. To give a basic example (one he gave me), is it better gas
mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM with the turbo(s) boosting -10 psi,
or is it better in fifth gear at 2500 RPM with the turbo(s) boosting 0
psi?
Thanks in advance,
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
Get your
free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.comSend & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:27:04
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basics
> The first question he asked me was what is
knock. I was able
> to give him a basic definition of what knock is
and a
> "laymans terms" of what causes it, but I really don't know
> any of the technical info on it. Can any of you gurus give
> me the tech info behind knock - what it is and its results on
>
the engine?
Knock is usually a minor form of detonation, or
pre-ignition. Essentially
what happens is the mixture gets hot enough
from compression that it ignites
on its own a bit early which causes cylinder
pressure to build too soon,
sometimes before the piston is before
top-dead-center which places high
stresses on the pistons, rings, connecting
rods, etc. Knock can be
controlled to some extent by retarding timing
(which the ECU automatically
does) if the knock is not severe. If it
goes on uncontrolled (ie: boost
continues increasing, or intake temps
increase, etc), it turns into
detonation which is the severe case of knock
and carries a much higher
probability of piston damage.
The Eclipse
motor is very resistant to knock and detonation, more-so than
the 3/S motors
are. If running an upgraded fuel pump and associated
free-flowing
exhaust and intake you can run up to 18 psi of boost on most of
them without
excessive knock.
> The second question he asked was about better gas
mileage on
> turbo cars. To give a basic example (one he gave me),
is it
> better gas mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM with
> the turbo(s) boosting -10 psi, or is it better in fifth gear
>
at 2500 RPM with the turbo(s) boosting 0 psi?
That depends on a lot of
factors. Generally you want to see the highest
amount of vacuum at the
lowest RPM. Higher RPMs require more fuel, and less
vacuum means that
the motor is consuming less air and therefore less fuel.
In your example, I'd
guess that it is better to be in fifth gear at 2500 RPM
since just the raw
rotation rate of the motor will consume 37% less fuel.
Those aren't "real"
numbers that you gave though, as on an Eclipse cruising
is more like 3500 RPM
vs. 2800 RPM in 4th / 5th gears (if I remember right)
and the vacuum numbers
aren't that far apart. Of course, if you are reading
off the stock
dashboard "boost" gauge, that's a completely useless gauge for
measuring much
of anything - same as it is on our 3/S cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:30:11
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basics
Use the Team3S Search Page for *dozens* of discussions
about "knock".
Use the Team3S FAQ page to read Roger's "Treatise on
Knock". (Under
'Engines')
Use Roger's home page for even
more:
www.rtec.chBest, (from a
NON-guru),
Forrest
www.Team3S.com- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John Stegall III" <
john.stegall@e247.com>
> All
right list, I need some help, especially from you gurus, Roger,
Bob, Matt
(and anyone else I forgot -- those three just answer my
questions most
often). My little brother recently purchased a 97
Eclipse GS-T Spyder
and had a few questions about turbo cars. I found
myself shocked when I
realized one question I could answer, but not give
him any technical
background on, and the other I really had no clue.
>
> The first
question he asked me was what is knock. I was able to give
him a basic
definition of what knock is and a "laymans terms" of what
causes it, but I
really don't know any of the technical info on it. Can
any of you gurus
give me the tech info behind knock - what it is and its
results on the
engine?
>
> The second question he asked was about better gas
mileage on turbo
cars. To give a basic example (one he gave me), is it
better gas
mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM with the
turbo(s)
boosting -10 psi, or is it better in fifth gear at 2500 RPM with
the
turbo(s) boosting 0 psi?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 22:58:12
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basics
Matt (and all)
You are quite close with your
theory, but off on one point. I am working on a
project that takes
advantage of this part of engine theory, and can contribute
here.
You said
that max vacuum would be the ideal fuel efficiency point. I agree
that
that the least amount of air consumes the least amount of fuel, however
max
vacuum is not true. Actually, vacuum is a force that the engine
creates, and in
doing so does work. This work is a very large drag
force on the engine, and
sacrafices efficiency. The best efficiency is
actually when the engine is
operating at minimum vacuum, or closest to
WOT. Now DON'T take this to mean
that WOT is the best way to get
efficiency (legal disclaimer), but that is the
effect. Think of a Geo
Metro or other 4-cylinder - still doing the same work to
push the car x
speed, but the throttle has to be more open to get there. This
amounts
to less engine drag, and more efficiency. We're talking
10-15%
efficiency with that drag alone. *sigh* That's enough for
tonight, I hope
there's more discussion on this!! =)
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
Delphi
Automotive - Design Engineer
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
> > The
first question he asked me was what is knock. I was able
> > to
give him a basic definition of what knock is and a
> > "laymans terms"
of what causes it, but I really don't know
> > any of the technical
info on it. Can any of you gurus give
> > me the tech info behind
knock - what it is and its results on
> > the engine?
>
>
Knock is usually a minor form of detonation, or pre-ignition.
Essentially
> what happens is the mixture gets hot enough from compression
that it ignites
> on its own a bit early which causes cylinder pressure to
build too soon,
> sometimes before the piston is before top-dead-center
which places high
> stresses on the pistons, rings, connecting rods,
etc. Knock can be
> controlled to some extent by retarding timing
(which the ECU automatically
> does) if the knock is not severe. If
it goes on uncontrolled (ie: boost
> continues increasing, or intake temps
increase, etc), it turns into
> detonation which is the severe case of
knock and carries a much higher
> probability of piston
damage.
>
> The Eclipse motor is very resistant to knock and
detonation, more-so than
> the 3/S motors are. If running an
upgraded fuel pump and associated
> free-flowing exhaust and intake you
can run up to 18 psi of boost on most of
> them without excessive
knock.
>
> > The second question he asked was about better gas
mileage on
> > turbo cars. To give a basic example (one he gave
me), is it
> > better gas mileage to drive in fourth gear at 4000 RPM
with
> > the turbo(s) boosting -10 psi, or is it better in fifth
gear
> > at 2500 RPM with the turbo(s) boosting 0 psi?
>
>
That depends on a lot of factors. Generally you want to see the
highest
> amount of vacuum at the lowest RPM. Higher RPMs require
more fuel, and less
> vacuum means that the motor is consuming less air
and therefore less fuel.
> In your example, I'd guess that it is better to
be in fifth gear at 2500 RPM
> since just the raw rotation rate of the
motor will consume 37% less fuel.
> Those aren't "real" numbers that you
gave though, as on an Eclipse cruising
> is more like 3500 RPM vs. 2800
RPM in 4th / 5th gears (if I remember right)
> and the vacuum numbers
aren't that far apart. Of course, if you are reading
> off the stock
dashboard "boost" gauge, that's a completely useless gauge for
> measuring
much of anything - same as it is on our 3/S cars.
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:09:25
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Basics
In other words - you are trying to say that like a
transmission - there is
an initial power loss through the internals of the
engine, and with vacuum
the loss can be more - so a car making more than idle
type power will have a
better efficiency per volume of fuel to output
HP. But this is also just
engine efficiency - we also need to mention
that we are talking about fuel
economy and wind resistance and such...
Conserving as much gas - not trying
to get the most HP per volume
fuel.
Maybe thats why those smaller engine cars have some higher gas
milage
ratings - cause they have to use more of their available power
output,
therefore being closer to the optimum engine speed for the most
efficient hp
to fuel ratio.
At what point does the engine start losing
efficiency - At what RPM that
is???
Am I making sense???
-
-Cody
#Matt (and all)
#
#You are quite close with your theory,
but off on one point. I am
#working on a
#project that takes
advantage of this part of engine theory, and
#can
contribute
#here.
#You said that max vacuum would be the ideal fuel
efficiency point.
# I agree that
#that the least amount of air consumes
the least amount of fuel, however max
#vacuum is not true. Actually,
vacuum is a force that the engine
#creates, and in
#doing so does
work. This work is a very large drag force on the
#engine,
and
#sacrafices efficiency. The best efficiency is actually when the
engine is
#operating at minimum vacuum, or closest to WOT. Now DON'T
take
#this to mean
#that WOT is the best way to get efficiency (legal
disclaimer), but
#that is the
#effect. Think of a Geo Metro or other
4-cylinder - still doing
#the same work to
#push the car x speed, but the
throttle has to be more open to get
#there. This
#amounts to less
engine drag, and more efficiency. We're talking 10-15%
#efficiency with
that drag alone. *sigh* That's enough for tonight, I hope
#there's more
discussion on this!! =)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:53:08
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Camber/castor adjustment plate opinions?
Can anybody out there
give me opinions of front camber or camber/castor
adjusment plates? Is
anyone using the Tein or Cusco plates? I remember a
long time ago that
the old Ground Control units had problems with the
bearings wearing out
quickly causing rattling. I know GC has new
camber/castor plates but
they only work with the GC spring kit. I have the
Eibach Pro-Kit
springs and don't really want to replace them, so I'm
interested if anyone is
using the Tein or Cusco plates.
Thanks,
Ken
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#429
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