team3s
Tuesday, February 27
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
421
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:17:40 -0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Replacing Camshaft Oil Seals
Thanks Roger and Marc,
Roger
wrote:
>>Must the intake manifold (as opposed to just the plenum) be
removed
>>to replace the camshaft oil seals ?
>
>No, but it
would make live easier.
OK, so I guess there are ways around it, but the
service manual documents
the formal method. Just like the service manual
timing belt R&I specifies
an R&I on the alternator and cruise control
pump, but there are ways
around those.
Marc wrote:
>You
have to remove the valve covers to hold the cams in place when you
>take
off the cam sprockets.
>You have to remove the plenum to remove the rear
valve cover.
>Removing the intake manifold, or the plenum rear mounting
brackets would
>have made it easier.
OK, that explains
it.
>I just did my 120K service.
>You have to remove the
timing belt to replace the seals. Do it now,
>save yourself the
headache later.
Exactly. New pulleys, adjuster, waterpump, thermostat,
rad hoses,
crankshaft oil seal and possibly end caps and rear cam seals
also.
If anything else (like water inlet pipe) is going bad, I guess I
should
order that too and put up with the car being down for a few more
days.
Guess I should get intake manifold and valve cover gaskets now
too.
Don't know if they're paper or metal like the plenum gasket. Many
people
seem to re-use the metal gaskets, and that maybe OK, but the service
manual
says they're a crushable type and should be replaced.
So for my
94 R/T TT that's an additional:
2 Intake Manifold Gaskets MD164701 $9 x
2 = $18
2 Rocker Cover Gaskets MD186786 $13 x 2 = $26
I can't
imagine I need the 6 "Valve Cover Spark Plug Hole Gaskets"
(MD186787 - about
$4 each) though...
>If the seals leak, the oil will get to the
belt eventually. If you
>remove your timing belt covers frequently,
you can check for leaks. I
>did it for peace of mind. My seals
were fine, but had old sludge oil
>behind them. It felt good to
clean that gunk out and get some new oil
>in there.
I'm in full
agreement about changing everything highly breakable when doing
the 60K,
since so many parts replacements require an R&I of the timing belt
again
and all that labor.
If anyone knows of any other obscure part to replace
for a 60K service
(done at 72K on a 7 year old car), please speak
up...
Thanks,
Mike.
94 R/T TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:36:51
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need advise on buying 15g's.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
). Also, though the
>housings look the same on the
outside, the inside and construction
>may be different. So even if it is
possible to modify a stock 9B into
>a 15G I would avoid it.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
They use
the EXACT same housing to start with.
The only end differences would be the
mods made to the
housing to accept larger wheels than would fit
otherwise
and any additional porting work that might have been
made to
enhance performance.(optional)
Ever wonder why TEC, Alamo etc prefers to
have
your old turbos?!(core)
It's so they can use the housings to
build/sell the
next set of 13g/15g turbos!
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:46:02
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy 13g Upgrade.
Anyone have any experience with the Greddy
13g turbo upgrade, or should I
just go with the
TEC's?
Regards,
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:57:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying 15g's.
Hi Todd,
"They use the
EXACT same housing to start with."
Maybe. I wonder why Mitsu assigns
different part numbers? And why the
larger 13G wheels fit in EXACTLY the same
housings as 9Bs? Does
anybody have pictures of the 9B and 13G diffusers? I am
still
negotiating with TEC to get access for pictures and other
details
concerning our turbos.
"It's so they can use the housings to
build/sell the
next set of 13g/15g turbos!"
TEC did not want my old 9B
turbos, nor did they ask for them. They
insisted on using brand new 13G
turbos. As I said before, the buyer
should contact the
seller/vendor/manufacturer/shop to determine
exactly how they make the 15Gs.
Some shops may use 9Bs as a basis for
15Gs.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
). Also, though the
>housings look the same on the
outside, the inside and construction
>may be different. So even if it is
possible to modify a stock 9B
into
>a 15G I would avoid it.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
They use
the EXACT same housing to start with.
The only end differences would be the
mods made to the
housing to accept larger wheels than would fit
otherwise
and any additional porting work that might have been
made to
enhance performance.(optional)
Ever wonder why TEC, Alamo etc prefers to
have
your old turbos?!(core)
It's so they can use the housings to
build/sell the
next set of 13g/15g turbos!
- -
tds
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:06:37
-0600
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Porterfield, Hawk, Motul Group Buy
Hey everyone, I just wanted to let you
know that CTC Motorsports is doing a
group buy on Porterfield, Hawk, and
Motul products. I think they'll be
going for 20% off. If you're
interested in new pads or some high temp fluid
e-mail them at
kyle@ctcmotorsports.com or call
1-877-501-4282. You can see
the application list at
www.porterfield-brakes.com but make
sure you call
Kyle at CTC for the group buy pricing.
I have the R4E's
on my Spyder which with me in it is 4200lbs and I have
absolutely no
complaints. I'll be ordering 2 more sets so that I'll have
a
spare.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'95 Chevrolet K1500
Z71
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:03:14
EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: G-Tech Results?
Hi, I have a '94 3000GT (NA - DOHC) with only a
few of small modifications --
the main mods are the FIPK filter + Resonator
removal and a short shifter.
I was wondering if anyone has a similar car
and has tested it on the G-tech.
If so, I would appreciate it if you could
e-mail me the results and the type
of car (with a list of modifications) you
have. Please e-mail them to me
privately so we don't flood the list with
messages.
Thank you!
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 01:07:50
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to bypass...
>
setup. It looks to me like the stock boost solenoid works by bleeding
off
> y-pipe pressure back into the intake (pre-turbo) at lower boost, but
at
> higher boost levels it closes up and that y-pipe pressure goes to
the
> wastegates. Is this correct?
Almost, it is alternated
as well as it acts as a restriction so not all
pressure is releaved to the
intake.
> connector, and then unhook the vacuum line from the "H"
connector to the
> stock boost solenoid and plug up that hole. This
setup would eliminate
the
> stock boost solenoid.
What is NOT
good on a non-controlled environment !
> After looking online at other
people's VR4 boost controller installs, I
saw
> examples of both of the
setups I described in the previous paragraph.
> What's the right way to
install a manual boost controller like mine?
I'd not do it this way. You
better install it in the line that goes fro mthe
H to the stock boost
solenoid.
> seems like leaving the stock boost solenoid in the loop
shouldn't make a
> difference, but the engineer in me screams to make the
system as simple as
> possible. :)
You will eliminate a safety
feature that only electronic BC are offering
(limiter is)
>
Might the stock boost solenoid close a little bit slowly,
> delaying the
response of the wastegates once my manual boost controller
>
opens?
Hmm, delay is not the word but overboost and a wafey behaviour
might happen.
Any system that bleeds off between the H and the solenoid is
better as there
will some pressure built up beforehand. But a spring-type
controller juts
opens and then lets pressure to the wastegate. In my point of
view, this
causes a too fast reaction what will cause a wavey behaviour. Just
recap
what we an eng. learned about closed loop environments. In our case it
is
tried to achieve a specific level of boost but the spring type BC is like
a
Flip-Flop and may open and close until the boost is steady. As you
already
have installed it you should tune it in properly (not that easy) and
it will
then work. Just not that safe and good an engineer would like to have
!
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:36:55
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to bypass...
>
> After looking online at other people's VR4 boost controller
>
installs, I
> saw
> > examples of both of the setups I described
in the previous
> paragraph.
> > What's the right way to install
a manual boost controller like mine?
>
> I'd not do it this way.
You better install it in the line
> that goes fro mthe
> H to the
stock boost solenoid.
>
I agree that this would be the right place
to install a bleeder valve. But
if I install my ball-and-spring boost
controller (not a bleeder valve!) in
the line from the H to the stock boost
solenoid, wouldn't that effectively
DECREASE the amount of boost that I
made? My BC is would close off this
line under low boost, which would
make all the pressure from the y-pipe go
straight to the wastegate
solenoids. This would cause the wastegates to
open, and the turbos
would never make enough pressure to open up my BC.
> >
seems like leaving the stock boost solenoid in the loop
> shouldn't make
a
> > difference, but the engineer in me screams to make the
>
system as simple as
> > possible. :)
>
> You will
eliminate a safety feature that only electronic BC
> are offering
>
(limiter is)
>
> > Might the stock boost solenoid close a
little bit slowly,
> > delaying the response of the wastegates once my
manual
> boost controller
> > opens?
>
> Hmm, delay
is not the word but overboost and a wafey
> behaviour might
happen.
> Any system that bleeds off between the H and the solenoid is
> better as there
> will some pressure built up beforehand. But a
spring-type
> controller juts
> opens and then lets pressure to the
wastegate. In my point of
> view, this
> causes a too fast reaction
what will cause a wavey behaviour.
> Just recap
> what we an eng.
learned about closed loop environments. In
> our case it is
> tried
to achieve a specific level of boost but the spring
> type BC is like
a
> Flip-Flop and may open and close until the boost is steady.
>
As you already
> have installed it you should tune it in properly (not
that
> easy) and it will
> then work. Just not that safe and good
an engineer would like
> to have !
I think I'll just tune it the
way it is now, as you suggest. Someday I'll
probably spring for a real
electronic boost controller, but for now I'm
happy with the performance I'm
getting from my little 10 dollar mod. :) I
upped it to 14lbs of boost
last night, and I can feel a difference. The
turbos are spinning up a
little louder, and my butt tells me the car is
pulling a little faster.
Fun stuff!
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 01:50:28
+0100
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
arty@it.com.pl>
Subject: Team3S: looking
for 3000/stealth
Hi my name is Andrzej.
I'm new on your list. I
love Mitsubishi cars for years, I was using Galants
V6 before. Now it's time
to move to my lovely 3000.
I'm living in Poland and wondering whats the best
method of purchasing such
a car in US/Europe. 3000GT's in Poland are 1). too
expensive for me (like
$20000-25000) or 2). in bad condition.
It could be
older VR4, SL version (95+) and even Base (95+), but in good
shape. Could you
recommend me ways for tracking such a
car?
regards
pozdrawiam
=======================================
Andrzej
Artymowicz
arty@it.com.pltel.
(0) 501 460160
tel. (22)
6715375
=======================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:30:18
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need advise on buying 15g's.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 26, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
>Hi Todd,
>
>"They use the EXACT same housing
to start with."
>
>Maybe. I wonder why Mitsu assigns different part
numbers? And why the
>larger 13G wheels fit in EXACTLY the same housings
as 9Bs? Does
>anybody have pictures of the 9B and 13G diffusers? I am
still
>negotiating with TEC to get access for pictures and other
details
>concerning our turbos.
>
>"It's so they can use the
housings to build/sell the
>next set of 13g/15g
turbos!"
>
>TEC did not want my old 9B turbos, nor did they ask for
them. They
>insisted on using brand new 13G turbos. As I said before, the
buyer
>should contact the seller/vendor/manufacturer/shop to
determine
>exactly how they make the 15Gs. Some shops may use 9Bs as a
basis for
>15Gs.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
TEC snatched
up my 13g's and Alamo
(they used Majestic) my 9g's
before that.[ in
94'] GTA wanted my 15s
(or any 9g/13g housing working or not) on the
368 buy but
my friend needed them worse.
Some shops offer a lower
price to upgrade
an existing 9g /13g than it would be to buy the
same
already built.
- - Todd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 20:02:48
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need advise on buying 15g's.
FWIW - According to a representative at
http://www.turbochargers.com 13Gs
can
be had in either Mitsubishi original 13G, or upgraded 9B housing whereas
15Gs
are produced solely from 13G MHI cores. There are different prices
for
the two 13G configurations, but only one price for 15Gs. According
to the
person I spoke with "15Gs cannot be produced from 9B
cores".
Oskar
95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 6:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise
on buying 15g's.
>
>
> >Hi Todd,
> >
>
>"They use the EXACT same housing to start with."
> >
>
>Maybe. I wonder why Mitsu assigns different part numbers? And why
the
> >larger 13G wheels fit in EXACTLY the same housings as 9Bs?
Does
> >anybody have pictures of the 9B and 13G diffusers? I am
still
> >negotiating with TEC to get access for pictures and other
details
> >concerning our turbos.
> >
> >"It's so
they can use the housings to build/sell the
> >next set of 13g/15g
turbos!"
> >
> >TEC did not want my old 9B turbos, nor did
they ask for them. They
> >insisted on using brand new 13G turbos. As I
said before, the buyer
> >should contact the
seller/vendor/manufacturer/shop to determine
> >exactly how they make
the 15Gs. Some shops may use 9Bs as a basis for
> >15Gs.
>
>
> >Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
> TEC
snatched up my 13g's and Alamo
> (they used Majestic) my 9g's
>
before that.[ in 94'] GTA wanted my 15s
> (or any 9g/13g housing
working or not) on the 368 buy but
> my friend needed them
worse.
>
> Some shops offer a lower price to upgrade
> an
existing 9g /13g than it would be to buy the same
> already
built.
>
> - Todd
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:00:39
-0800
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need advise on buying 15g's.
According to my local turbo
rebuilder,
the stock compressor housings are simply too small to
be
machined out reliably to accept 15G's and up out-of-the-box.
This is
due to the inducer limitations of the stock housing.
The upgraded Mitsu units
actually have a slightly larger intake,
and thus can be machined to accept
compressors with larger inducer sections.
Besides that, the turbines are
also bigger on the Mitsu upgrades, reducing
top end backpressure.
The
most I've been told to reasonably accept is a TD04H 13G upgrade to
the
stock
housing, direct from the turbo rebuilder at
turbochargers.com
You're looking at around $500 for a stock upgrade to 13G,
and around $800
for a fresh
and upgraded-in-some-areas Mitsu
unit.
Best,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
> Hi Todd,
>
> "They use the EXACT same housing
to start with."
>
> Maybe. I wonder why Mitsu assigns different part
numbers? And why the
> larger 13G wheels fit in EXACTLY the same housings
as 9Bs? Does
> anybody have pictures of the 9B and 13G diffusers? I am
still
> negotiating with TEC to get access for pictures and other
details
> concerning our turbos.
>
> "It's so they can use the
housings to build/sell the
> next set of 13g/15g turbos!"
>
>
TEC did not want my old 9B turbos, nor did they ask for them. They
>
insisted on using brand new 13G turbos. As I said before, the buyer
>
should contact the seller/vendor/manufacturer/shop to determine
> exactly
how they make the 15Gs. Some shops may use 9Bs as a basis for
>
15Gs.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
> To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 4:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise
on buying 15g's.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Need advise
on buying 15g's.
>
>
> ). Also, though the
>
>housings look the same on the outside, the inside and construction
>
>may be different. So even if it is possible to modify a stock 9B
>
into
> >a 15G I would avoid it.
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
They use the EXACT same housing to start with.
> The only end differences
would be the mods made to the
> housing to accept larger wheels than would
fit otherwise
> and any additional porting work that might have
been
> made to enhance performance.(optional)
>
> Ever wonder
why TEC, Alamo etc prefers to have
> your old
turbos?!(core)
>
> It's so they can use the housings to build/sell
the
> next set of 13g/15g turbos!
>
> -
tds
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:20:39
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:wheels and tires
>(Interesting combination of tire
widths). Why so much wider in the back?
>Are you drag racing so the
car weight is usually sitting on the rear
wheels?
Yes, I drag race
primarily. Strangely, the car will spin its back tires
more easily then
the fronts under a full boost launch with the 9Bs. Enough
spinning
sometimes ocurrs that I can see smoke in my rear-view, thus the
wider tires
in back. I know the front lifts terribly high on launches, so
maybe its
the weight transfer.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 00:07:10
-0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 9B Turbos worth?
I don't want to start an opinion war so maybe it
would be best to reply
to me in private about this.
How much would a
set of stocker turbos that have approximately 60K miles
on them be
worth?
A guy on ebay was selling(he may even be a member) and did not get
his
reserve price($350). I offered him $300 for them...was this a
fair
price? or should I go lower? Higher?
Thanks for any
input.
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:27:26
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Has the site been hacked???
Frontpage extenxions screwed up
when there was a power outage.
I fixed it the moment I landed here in
Singapre this Am at about 4.
All is well..wont happen again.
On
Mon, 26 Feb 2001, George Shaw wrote:
>
http://www.team3s.com/
gives
>
> The Apache
>
> What gives?
>
>
> --
>
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.com>
EMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Office:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
> Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
>
ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 00:28:17
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 9B Turbos worth?
>A guy on ebay was selling(he may even be
a member) and did not get his
>reserve price($350). I offered him
$300 for them...was this a fair
>price? or should I go lower?
Higher?
A while back, I was considering selling my turbos and
intercoolers and
upgrading my system. It seemed to me that $1,000 - $1,500
would have been a
fair price. Potential buyers would have been base cars who
wanted to
turbocharge their cars. They would have to buy the piping
separately, of
course.
As for your situation, why would anyone want
just a set of stock turbos?
The only possible reason I can see is to replace
a bad stock turbo. So your
offer was probably fair.
Rich/old
poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 01:40:12
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
More on tire temps
Chuck,
Merrit noticed from firsthand experience
that shaving reduces the heat
generated by the tires. When I boought my
Falken FK-451 245/35 18 (Y-186
mph rated) tires, I talked to a Falken Tech
and he told me that most of the
heat is generated from tire flexing.
There is also the intuitive source of
heat: friction of tire with road.
Therefore, the Mitsu manual stating to
inflate tires an additional 6 psi all
around (I need to look up the exact
number) for extended driving above 100
mph makes sense. The tech told me
that the reason Mitsu requires that,
is to reduce sidewall/rubber flexing as
it will happen quicker and more
violently @ 100+ mph than @ 40 mph. So, the
bottom line is, if you were
to do a top speed run with 32 psi and one with
40 psi, your tire temps would
be lower in the later scenario.
The tech also mentioned that there is a
chart available in Europe (due to
the Autoband) that lists various guidelines
for increased tire pressures
according to different speeds. He
suggested, that the new tire encoding
system was pushed by the Germans due to
tire failures on the Autoband. The
system I am reffering to
is:
Z=149 mph
w=168 mph
Y=186 mph
As you guys probably know,
the old system was Z=149+ mph, which made
everyone wonder if an old Z rated
tire was suitable for a top speed run in a
TT/VR4 @ 169+ mph.
There is
a standard chart out there of all these tire pressure
reccomendations at
various high speeds. If any European members have seen
this chart or
can find it, I'm sure we would all like to see it. Does
anyone know
what I'm talking about? Does anyone have this chart?
PS. One
question: My tire MAX pressure is rated @ 51 psi. This means
that
once the tire is as hot as it's going to get, I cannot exceed 51
psi,
correct? I think I'm running 42/39 psi.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Detroit
Metro Area, Michigan
- ------------------------------------
Also
notice that shaving tires also reduces the thickness of rubber
available for
wear, meaning they need to be replaced more often. According
to the
blurb, less heat can be retained by a shaved tire, so the tires
run
cooler. That is really counter-intuitive. If the main source
of heat in
the tire is friction between the contact patch and the road,
rather than
internal heat generated by flexion of the rubber, and a
shaved tire has
less mass, the same amount of heat will cause the temperature
of the tire to
be HIGHER, assuming the ability of the tire to get rid of heat
is the same
(same surface area).
As long as I am the one paying for my
tires, I don't plan to shave anything
off, except by braking and
turning.
Chuck
- ---------------
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
I
thought that too. But when I corded two Kumhos after ONE event, I ordered
the
next two shaved. Damn if it didn't work. They shaved down that big fat
outer
shoulder and the tires have been wearing equally every since.
Rich
-
-------------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:02:07
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: looking for 3000/stealth
Welcome to the list
Andrzej
>I'm living in Poland and wondering whats the best method of
purchasing such
>a car in US/Europe. 3000GT's in Poland are 1). too
expensive for me (like
>$20000-25000) or 2). in bad condition.
>It
could be older VR4, SL version (95+) and even Base (95+), but in
good
>shape. Could you recommend me ways for tracking such a
car?
First, there are many 3000GT in Germany as well as some base models
that
have been imported by US-Army people located in Germany. But please be
aware of people who want to sell you an SL as a Turbo car. This because
only the TwinTurbos have been officially imported to Europe as there was no
market for an NA car. About half of all Stealths are NA's here. You can
search the german search engines like
www.autoscout24.de or others. The
prices are even as expensive als elsewhere. If yo uwant to import one from
the US you must calculate the side-costs for gettign the car inspected and
shipping it to Poland. This may become more expensive then getting one from
Germany.
Hope this helps
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 02:09:02
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: More on tire temps, pressures
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
>>> The tech
also mentioned that there is a chart available in Europe
(due to the
Autobahn) that lists various guidelines for increased tire
pressures
according to different speeds. He suggested, that the new
tire encoding
system was pushed by the Germans due to tire failures on
the Autobahn.
The system I am referring to is: Z=149 mph W=168 mph
Y=186
mph<<<<<
Here's the list:
N=87 MPH,
140km/h U=124 MPH,
200km/h
P=93 MPH, 150km/h
H=130 MPH, 210km/h
Q=99 MPH,
160km/h V=149 MPH, 240km/h
R=106
MPH, 170km/h W=168 MPH, 270km/h
S=112 MPH,
180km/h Y=186 MPH, 300km/h
T=118 MPH,
190km/h Z=149 MPH, 240km/h and
over
>>> PS. One question: My tire MAX pressure is
rated @ 51 psi. This
means that once the tire is as hot as it's going
to get, I cannot exceed
51 psi, correct? I think I'm running 42/39
psi.<<<<<
That MAX number is only a guide, and it
represents "cold" inflation; it
is expected that the heat of the day and
driving will make the inflation
higher during a driving session. What's
more important with competition
tires is never exceeding the maximum rated
temperature, since that is
when the compounds will break down. The heat
of a race will never
increase the inflation more than 10-20psi, which is well
within the
capability of a competition tire. (We used to figure
10degrees = 1
psi). Especially if the tire is "heat cycled" (heated to
high temp,
then cooled for 1-2 days), it is capable of three or more *times*
the
highest pressure you'll ever see, even during a race. When tires
are
mounted, they are often inflated to 150-200 psi before they 'pop' on
to
the rim - it does not hurt the tire.
The idea is to run the lowest
pressure you can to maximize traction,
while maintaining a high enough
inflation to maximize handling. But for
most racing apps (and good
handling with plain old performance tires)
those pressures will be much
higher than numbers we normally see in a
user's manual. And that can
only be decided on an individual basis,
through trial and error.
Several factors must be considered to even
establish a starting point to
finding the "right" inflation: weight
(car + driver), tire/rim,
speed/type of road, and whether it's raining
or not.
To use Merritt's
example of BFG R1's..., on my FWD Stealth (~3300lbs)
the
recommended base inflation would be 40F/30R, while over 100MPH, I
would use
the extra 4lbs recommended by Dodge/Mitsu to run 44F/34R.
That would be the
starting point for me to do a few tests to see what
settings 'felt'
best. If it were raining, I would increase the base
setting by 6-10lbs
all around (also recommended), to minimize
hydroplaning. With my
current Nitto Extreme Performance 450's
(V-rated), I found 43F/37R works best
for normal driving, but on the
highway I run 46F/40R. BTW, the MAX
marked on the tire is only 39lbs,
and after 15k miles, they are wearing
pretty evenly, even with my
aggressive driving style and what some would
consider 'overinflation'.
Yes, your tires will wear a bit faster than
normal, but it's a small
price to pay for safety and handling. Don't
sacrifice performance to
squeeze 5k more miles out of your tires. Read
all you can about what's
suggested for your car/tires/road, and then pump 'em
up to what *feels
good*! You don't have to limit yourself to sidewall
MAX numbers, IMO...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 06:00:15
EST
From:
LizVong21@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Re: More on tire temps, pressures
Can someone tell me if the front
differential is the same as a the transfer
case?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:51:48
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to bypass...
>I
agree that this would be the right place to install a bleeder valve.
But
>if I install my ball-and-spring boost controller (not a bleeder
valve!) in
>the line from the H to the stock boost solenoid, wouldn't that
effectively
>DECREASE the amount of boost that I made?
Yes, sure,
but there are different types of ball-spring valves !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 14:23:32
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Security
Due to a number of thefts of members cars recently I
thought you all may be
interested in a device to prevent the hot-wiring of
the car. The site is at
http://www.powerlock.com check it out
as its not that expensive. I don't
know any of these guys or have any
connection with the company, but anything
that stops the thieving b******s is
bound to be a good thing. I am
interested in compiling a list of security
related equipment, methods etc
for the Stealth, 3k GT GTO. so if anyone has
any tips, links, info, stories
etc please EMAIL me. I will put up a Web page
soon with all the details on
security in one place.
-
--
EMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 07:23:13
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 9B
Turbos worth?
Going rate seems to be about $600 a pair, or $300 each,
depending upon
condition of course. If they are going to be used for
rebuilds, you'd want
to pay much less.
Like anything with a price tag,
they are worth whatever someone is willing
to pay for
them.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I don't want to start an opinion war so maybe it
would be best to reply
> to me in private about this.
>
> How
much would a set of stocker turbos that have approximately 60K miles
> on
them be worth?
>
> A guy on ebay was selling(he may even be a
member) and did not get his
> reserve price($350). I offered him
$300 for them...was this a fair
> price? or should I go lower?
Higher?
>
> Thanks for any input.
> --
> -Jeff
Crabtree
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 06:30:37
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps, pressures
No, they are different. The
front diff is inside the transmission
(actually called a transaxle because of
this). The transfer case is
external to and attached to the transmission. See
my web pages for
specifics and pictures:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
LizVong21@aol.com>
To: <
bf@bobforrest.com>; <
aa2345@wayne.edu>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 4:00 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: More on tire
temps, pressures
Can someone tell me if the front differential is the
same as a the
transfer case?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:35:42
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to
bypass...
>> connector, and then unhook the vacuum line from the
"H"
>> connector to the stock boost solenoid and plug up
that
>> hole. This setup would eliminate the stock
boost
>> solenoid.
> What is NOT good on a
non-controlled environment !
I have to respectfully disagree on this
one... Having TWO things fighting
to control boost is not the best way
to regulate boost. The ECU is taking a
guess at boost pressure based
upon mass airflow and RPM, versus the
ball/spring/restrictor controller
actually responding based on the actual
Y-pipe pressure. In order to
keep the manual controller accurate, you MUST
eliminate the stock boost
control solenoid from the system.
>> After looking online at other
people's VR4 boost
>> controller installs, I saw examples of both
of
>> the setups I described in the previous paragraph.
>>
What's the right way to install a manual boost
>> controller like
mine?
> I'd not do it this way. You better install it in the line
> that goes from the H to the stock boost solenoid.
That's an
incorrect location for a restriction-type boost controller. It
would
work for a bleeder, but not a restrictor. He's got it in the
right
place, but just needs to plug both lines for the stock boost solenoid
and
everything will be set... Assuming that a good boost gauge is
installed and
in an easily visible location.
> But a spring-type
controller just opens and then
> lets pressure to the wastegate. In my
point of
> view, this causes a too fast reaction what will
> cause
a wavey behaviour.
Which is pretty much exactly what the electronic
controllers do to control
boost. In reality there is no difference in
the end result, other than that
the valve is electronically controlled on an
electronic controller and
mechanically on a mechanical controller. In
actual practice, it does not
result in wavy boost control. Theory about
how well a certain type of
controller works doesn't matter a whole lot when
there is real-world data to
prove otherwise.
> Just recap what we
an eng. learned about closed
> loop environments. In our case it is tried
to
> achieve a specific level of boost but the spring
> type BC is
like a Flip-Flop and may open and
> close until the boost is steady.
Yes, it is somewhat off/on, but understand that it can change states
very
rapidly - much more rapidly than the turbos themselves change flow rates
in
response to wastegate changes. (Talking about spring/ball
restrictor
controllers, not cheap bleeder valves).
> As you already
have installed it you should
> tune it in properly (not that easy) and
it
> will then work. Just not that safe and good
> an engineer would
like to have !
Yes, an electronic controller typically has more safety
features to protect
against problems with the solenoid valve, but in my view
the mechanical
controller is less likely to suffer a failure in the first
place, only
because of the simplicity of its design. If an electronic
controller's
solenoid valve sticks open, you are in just as much
trouble. ;-)
Haven't we gone over this before? :-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:04:41
-0600
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bogus Pics in Stealth Auction (eBay)
Dear members and
enthusiasts,
The following auction, currently running on eBay, is
using a photo of my 1994 Stealth TT to try and sell a 1991 Stealth ES. It
appears the seller has "Lifted" the photo of my car from my signature on 3/Si
and used it in the description for his auction.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=564598172
I'm not trying to start anything. I simply want anyone who is possibly
considering to bid on this vehicle to know that the photo used in the
description is not a 1991 Stealth ES with 109,000 miles. It's a 1994 Stealth R/T
Twin Turbo with 19,000 miles. More importantly, my 94 TT (which is located in
Illinois), not California as the seller would like you to believe.
Thanx,
and bidder beware...
Craig
Craig Golema
Product
Development Manager
Hobbico, Inc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:34:32
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
Gentlemen,
At the risk of
being laughed at, I took my '94 VR4 to the Mitsu dealer to
get a diagnosis on
a noise the comes from the front right wheel when I hit a
bump. The
vibration is a low pitched rumble and transfers lightly back to
the steering
wheel, and happens at low speed and high speed. The
technician
immediately fixated on the front air dam, which is indeed rattling
(high
pitched), but can't seem to bring himself to examine the front right
strut,
ball joints, tie rod, or wheel bearing (which out of all these, I
think is
probably okay). I just got off the phone and told them to
remove the air
dam, tape up the metal hangers for the air dam and drive the
car out on
bumps so he can see the REAL rumble I'm talking about.
This
noise has been present since I bought the car last November. It
has
about 57K miles on it. When I had the car on jackstands to do the
brakes, I
noticed that there was a lot of free play in rotation of the front
left
wheel, not free play when pulling the top of the hub/bearing assembly,
so I
started getting paranoid about the front axle. Then when I had my
'93 on
jack stands, it seemed to have about the same amount of rotational
free
play.
What else can this be? How can I get the mechanic to
look at the
suspension, like I asked them to? (suspension and axle
components and
transaxle are covered by my extended warranty, you guessed it,
but not the
front air dam!)
Please
Hepme!
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:19:51
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps, pressures
Bob,
Thanks for the
explanation of the MAX pressure number being COLD. I was
starting to
get real paranoid!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Bob Forrest [
SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 4:09 AM
> To:
aa2345@wayne.edu; Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: More on tire temps, pressures
>
> ----- Original
Message ----- From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> >>> The
tech also mentioned that there is a chart available in Europe
> (due to
the Autobahn) that lists various guidelines for increased tire
> pressures
according to different speeds. He suggested, that the new
> tire
encoding system was pushed by the Germans due to tire failures on
> the
Autobahn. The system I am referring to is: Z=149 mph W=168
mph
> Y=186 mph<<<<<
>
> Here's the
list:
>
> N=87 MPH,
140km/h U=124 MPH,
200km/h
> P=93 MPH,
150km/h H=130 MPH,
210km/h
> Q=99 MPH, 160km/h
V=149 MPH, 240km/h
> R=106 MPH, 170km/h
W=168 MPH, 270km/h
> S=112 MPH, 180km/h
Y=186 MPH, 300km/h
> T=118 MPH, 190km/h
Z=149 MPH, 240km/h and over
>
> >>> PS. One
question: My tire MAX pressure is rated @ 51 psi. This
> means
that once the tire is as hot as it's going to get, I cannot exceed
> 51
psi, correct? I think I'm running 42/39 psi.<<<<<
>
> That MAX number is only a guide, and it represents "cold" inflation;
it
> is expected that the heat of the day and driving will make the
inflation
> higher during a driving session. What's more important
with competition
> tires is never exceeding the maximum rated temperature,
since that is
> when the compounds will break down. The heat of a
race will never
> increase the inflation more than 10-20psi, which is well
within the
> capability of a competition tire. (We used to figure
10degrees = 1
> psi). Especially if the tire is "heat cycled"
(heated to high temp,
> then cooled for 1-2 days), it is capable of three
or more *times* the
> highest pressure you'll ever see, even during a
race. When tires are
> mounted, they are often inflated to 150-200
psi before they 'pop' on to
> the rim - it does not hurt the tire.
>
> The idea is to run the lowest pressure you can to maximize
traction,
> while maintaining a high enough inflation to maximize
handling. But for
> most racing apps (and good handling with plain
old performance tires)
> those pressures will be much higher than numbers
we normally see in a
> user's manual. And that can only be decided
on an individual basis,
> through trial and error. Several factors
must be considered to even
> establish a starting point to finding the
"right" inflation: weight
> (car + driver), tire/rim,
speed/type of road, and whether it's raining
> or not.
>
> To
use Merritt's example of BFG R1's..., on my FWD Stealth
(~3300lbs)
> the recommended base inflation would be 40F/30R, while over
100MPH, I
> would use the extra 4lbs recommended by Dodge/Mitsu to run
44F/34R.
> That would be the starting point for me to do a few tests to
see what
> settings 'felt' best. If it were raining, I would
increase the base
> setting by 6-10lbs all around (also recommended), to
minimize
> hydroplaning. With my current Nitto Extreme Performance
450's
> (V-rated), I found 43F/37R works best for normal driving, but on
the
> highway I run 46F/40R. BTW, the MAX marked on the tire is only
39lbs,
> and after 15k miles, they are wearing pretty evenly, even with
my
> aggressive driving style and what some would consider
'overinflation'.
>
> Yes, your tires will wear a bit faster than
normal, but it's a small
> price to pay for safety and handling.
Don't sacrifice performance to
> squeeze 5k more miles out of your
tires. Read all you can about what's
> suggested for your
car/tires/road, and then pump 'em up to what *feels
> good*! You
don't have to limit yourself to sidewall MAX numbers, IMO...
>
>
Best,
>
> Forrest
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:22:33
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 9B Turbos worth?
"... why would anyone want just a set of
stock turbos? The only
possible reason I can see is to replace a bad stock
turbo."
Well I would like a set (or just one) so I can disassemble them
and
take a look inside, measure components, take pictures, etc. You
know,
like I did with the center diff in my Illustrated Guide to our
AWD
system.
So if anyone would like to donate or loan 1 or 2 stock 9B
turbos, or
sell them to me at a reasonable price (translate as cheap), I
would
appreciate it. They don't have to work as I will never be
putting
them on a car.
TIA,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>;
"TEAM 3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 9B Turbos
worth?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 13:46:48
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
Well, as you might have
guessed, Mitsu couldn't find anything wrong. I
think a component has to
be broken into two pieces before these guys can
discern a problem. Next stop
is a chassis shop., which is where I should've
gone to begin with ...
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [
SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:35 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> At the risk of being laughed at, I took my '94 VR4 to the Mitsu dealer
to
> get a diagnosis on a noise the comes from the front right wheel when
I hit
> a
> bump. The vibration is a low pitched rumble and
transfers lightly back to
> the steering wheel, and happens at low speed
and high speed. The
> technician
> immediately fixated on the
front air dam, which is indeed rattling (high
> pitched), but can't seem
to bring himself to examine the front right
> strut,
> ball joints,
tie rod, or wheel bearing (which out of all these, I think is
> probably
okay). I just got off the phone and told them to remove the air
>
dam, tape up the metal hangers for the air dam and drive the car out on
>
bumps so he can see the REAL rumble I'm talking about.
>
> This
noise has been present since I bought the car last November. It
has
> about 57K miles on it. When I had the car on jackstands to do
the brakes,
> I
> noticed that there was a lot of free play in
rotation of the front left
> wheel, not free play when pulling the top of
the hub/bearing assembly, so
> I
> started getting paranoid about
the front axle. Then when I had my '93 on
> jack stands, it seemed
to have about the same amount of rotational free
> play.
>
>
What else can this be? How can I get the mechanic to look at the
>
suspension, like I asked them to? (suspension and axle components
and
> transaxle are covered by my extended warranty, you guessed it, but
not the
> front air dam!)
>
> Please Hepme!
>
Chuck
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 13:49:21
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
oh yeah, it's the front LEFT
wheel - I'm so frustrated, I don't know my left
from my right!
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [
SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 1:47 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: FW:
Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
>
> Well, as you might have
guessed, Mitsu couldn't find anything wrong. I
> think a component
has to be broken into two pieces before these guys can
> discern a
problem. Next stop is a chassis shop., which is where I
>
should've
> gone to begin with ...
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Willis, Charles E.
> [
SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:35 AM
> > To: Team3S
>
> Subject: Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
> >
> >
Gentlemen,
> >
> > At the risk of being laughed at, I took my
'94 VR4 to the Mitsu dealer
> to
> > get a diagnosis on a noise
the comes from the front right wheel when I
> hit
> > a
>
> bump. The vibration is a low pitched rumble and transfers lightly
back
> to
> > the steering wheel, and happens at low speed and
high speed. The
> > technician
> > immediately fixated
on the front air dam, which is indeed rattling (high
> > pitched), but
can't seem to bring himself to examine the front right
> >
strut,
> > ball joints, tie rod, or wheel bearing (which out of all
these, I think
> is
> > probably okay). I just got off the
phone and told them to remove the
> air
> > dam, tape up the
metal hangers for the air dam and drive the car out on
> > bumps so he
can see the REAL rumble I'm talking about.
> >
> > This noise
has been present since I bought the car last November. It
>
has
> > about 57K miles on it. When I had the car on jackstands
to do the
> brakes,
> > I
> > noticed that there was a
lot of free play in rotation of the front left
> > wheel, not free play
when pulling the top of the hub/bearing assembly,
> so
> >
I
> > started getting paranoid about the front axle. Then when I
had my '93
> on
> > jack stands, it seemed to have about the same
amount of rotational free
> > play.
> >
> > What
else can this be? How can I get the mechanic to look at the
> >
suspension, like I asked them to? (suspension and axle components
and
> > transaxle are covered by my extended warranty, you guessed it,
but not
> the
> > front air dam!)
> >
> >
Please Hepme!
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:38:46
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to bypass...
>
That's an incorrect location for a restriction-type boost controller.
Who
said it is a restriction type boost controller ?
> because of the
simplicity of its design. If an electronic controller's
> solenoid
valve sticks open, you are in just as much trouble. ;-)
With
respect, this is wrong. If this happens then all pressure goes to
the
wastegate actuators and only 6 psi will produced ! I doubt that this
is
trouble :-)
> Haven't we gone over this before?
:-)
Yes, several times.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#421
*********************