team3s
Monday, February 26
2001 Volume 01
: Number
420
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:12:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need advise on buying 15g's.
I list the most well-known
suppliers of turbos for our cars in my
comprehensive turbo upgrade
guide.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmCall
the vendors or manufacturers and ask how they make the 15G
turbo. TEC
(located only a few miles from me) made mine and they
explained that they
only use brand new 13G turbos (aka Mitsubishi
Sport Turbo). Other
manufacturers may rebuild used 13Gs. I am not
sure if there is any difference
performance or endurance wise. Note
that the 13G uses a different (and I
presume better) cartridge than
the 9B (the 13G also has a larger turbine
wheel). Also, though the
housings look the same on the outside, the inside
and construction
may be different. So even if it is possible to modify a
stock 9B into
a 15G I would avoid it. Part numbers for 9B and 13G turbos are
listed
in my upgrade guide.
In 1998, TEC charged $730 for one new 13G
turbo and $303 to turn that
turbo into a 15G. Buying the 15Gs will be the
easiest part of
replacing the 9Bs. I have a link to Errin Humphrey's
do-it-yourself
instructions on the Garage page at my web site. Supposedly,
paying
someone to replace the turbos will cost like $1000. You should
either
thoroughly clean or replace the water and oil supply and return
lines
while you're at it.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, February 25, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: Need advise on buying
15g's.
I am looking to do a 15g upgrade however I'm not sure which one
to
get. Right now price dictates which one I buy but I was wondering
is
there a difference.
Should I buy any 15g upgrade I can afford, or
are there
any
recommendations.
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:46:52
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch slip?
Any stock or aftermarket clutch, in good shape
and installed
correctly, should not slip once engaged under hard acceleration
for
any 3S with stock 9B turbos (and no NOS). Even
my
bad-mouthed-by-those-in-the-know Centerforce DF does not slip
(with
15Gs, 550s, ATR exhaust, yadda, yadda). Since you have already
made
the mistake of letting a dealership mechanic touch your car, I
am
afraid you may have to repeat that until they get it right.
Sorry.
My experience (with other cars) has been that when a used
clutch
slips on acceleration in higher gears only, it is often due
to
adjustment (to compensate for the wear).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 6:08 AM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch slip?
I just
got a new clutch installed with my engine rebuild. The clutch
that came
in the car when I bought it was slipping bad under hard
acceleration.
The new clutch is starting to slip a little already
under hard acceleration
in 3rd and 4th. Is it normal to expect a
little slip from the stock
clutch, or do I need to drive back over to
the dealer and find out what they
did wrong?
<snip>
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:49:26
-0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: camshaft oil seals
I just did my 120K service.
You have to
remove the timing belt to replace the seals. Do it now,
save yourself
the headache later.
You have to remove the valve covers to hold the cams in
place when you
take off the cam sprockets.
You have to remove the plenum
to remove the rear valve cover.
Removing the intake manifold, or the plenum
rear mounting brackets would
have made it easier.
If the seals leak,
the oil will get to the belt eventually. If you
remove your timing belt
covers frequently, you can check for leaks. I
did it for peace of
mind. My seals were fine, but had old sludge oil
behind them. It
felt good to clean that gunk out and get some new oil
in there.
-
--
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:01:01
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:wheels and tires
More importantly, you have decreased your
"unsprung weight" by 100#, so your
suspension will work much better to keep
your tires in contact with the
road.
(Interesting combination of tire
widths). Why so much wider in the back?
Are you drag racing so the car
weight is usually sitting on the rear wheels?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [
SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent:
Sunday, February 25, 2001 4:11 PM
> To: Schilberg, Darren; Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S:wheels and tires
>
> >
Sorry. I posted some warnings before about our cars. It is not
the
> >speed -- it is the momentum. Acceleration is 32 ft/sec^2
so 5 mph really
> >does mean something (60 mph is 88 feet/sec so 5 mph
is 7.3 feet/sec).
> >Multiply that by nearly 4,000 pounds and you get a
good amount of force
> >hitting a 40 pound rim. I drop my
insurance each winter down to $100
> >deductible. Costs triple
the premium for three months but the peace of
> mind
> >is well
worth it. I don't want some yahoo sliding into me and making me
>
pay
> >$1,000 when it can get covered with $100.
> >
>
Exactly right! My deductible is $1000, and since the damage was a
little
> less, I have to pick up the bill. I ended up buying from
discount tire
> 4-18"x9"Enkei RPo-1s with Nitto 555
> tires 245/40
front and 275/35 rear. The rims weigh 17lbs each. They are
>
pretty ugly IMHO, but there seems to be few rims that fit, and even less
>
that are light and look good. They will come mounted and balanced
with
> lugs
> for $1800. I think that should drop my
weight by almost 100lbs.
>
> Sam
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 07:46:29
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Highspeed runs in a Spyder, header rattles
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C09FC8.3B0A9A00
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
8bit
Paul I noticed no
one took this one up
Similar but not the same ---- spot welding is almost
impossible after the
car is completed as it requires an electrode on each
side of the material.
Stitch welding uses a wire feed welder to weld a short
'spot' --- ¼" or so,
at regular intervals to reinforce the original factory
spot welds, this
procedure stiffens the body and helps prevents flexing. A
continuous weld
causes too much localized heating and possible warping of
panels.
see photo for details
!
Jim
Berry
=================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul T. Golley <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
>
>
>> > This summer I'm going to stitch weld the unibody on the
spyder,
> >> hopefully
> >> > this will help the flex
a little.
> I assume stitch weld is the same as spot welding -
right or wrong?
> Where would additional welding decrease the
flexing?
>
> Thanks for any reply.
> Regards,
>
ptg
- ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C09FC8.3B0A9A00
Content-Type:
image/jpeg;
name="stitchweld.jpg"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
base64
Content-Disposition:
attachment;
filename="stitchweld.jpg"
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code snipped---------------------
- ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C09FC8.3B0A9A00--
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:21:26
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire Pressures
For those on the list who track their cars, what
tire pressures are you
running? I corded my old tires last weekend at
Roebling Road, and just
got a new set of G-Force R1's - size 245/40-18.
I had been running
about 30 in the front and 28 in the rear. The guy at
Tire Rack told me
to try the G-Forces at the recommended pressure
(32/29). Also, since
these are cold pressures, after they heat up does
anyone bleed air out
for the next run group? After a run, my pressures
go up anywhere from 6
- - 10 psi - but they usually don't drop all the way
back down to the
"cold" pressure before my next run. Example: I start
the day at 28 psi
cold. Following the 1st run I'm at say 38 psi hot. The car
sits for an
hour or two until the next run, and cools down to say 32
psi. Should I
run at 32 psi, or bleed down to 28, or meet half-way to
30?
- -Steve
'92 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 08:29:06
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ADMIN: One Team3S website down; mirror site OK... (was:
...site...hacked?...)
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "George
Shaw"
<
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
>
http://www.team3s.com/
gives "The Apache"
> What gives?
Thanks for the alert
George... The main Team3S website,
www.Team3S.comis down, and Geoff is on a
plane, so it may be down for a while. "The
Apache" is the software that
powers our webservers. That message pops
up when something isn't
working right. But not to worry, we are as
"unhackable" as a site can
be, with a serious firewall in place. It's
probably something as simple
as Nissa & Geoff's daughter Katy pouring
milk in the server
(again)! :-)
We maintain a "mirror" site for such occasions, with
identical
information to the main website. And as Mikael said, the
mirror site is
working just fine, so you may access any information you need
at:
www.Stealth-3000GT.stWe'll keep
you posted when the main site is up again.
Best,
Bob
Forrest
for the Admin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:35:16
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressures
At 11:21 AM 2/26/01 -0500, Steve Lasher
wrote:
>For those on the list who track their cars, what tire
pressures are
you
>running?
44/38 cold. They
will go up to 50/45 hot.
I've run the same tire pressure in Yoko 032R and
Kuhmo V700 race tires.
The biggest single way I've found to avoid
cording tires is to go to -2.5
deg camber in front.
Get or borrow
an infrared pryometer. Find a place on the track
immediately after some lefts
and rights where you can pull off to check
tire temps. If your tire temps are
within 5 deg of each other at the
inside, outside and middle, you are set up
perfectly. Don't try this at
the end of a long straight, because the tire
temps will equalize. I
suppose you could also try this on the street
with a suitable twisty road
section, but you gotta find a place where you can
get the race tires up
to temperature.
If it is too hot on the
outside edge, you need more negative camber.
If it's too hot in the
middle, it is underinflated (I might have that
backward). Somewhere on the
web there is a web site that shows what to do
if you have various temperature
profiles.
Here's the official advice for dealing with Kuhmo tires. I
suspect that
it applies to your tires in some basic way:
Tire
temperatures are taken with a tire pyrometer which can measure how
hard your
tires are working and how evenly the work was distributed
between them during
the most recent corners. While the V700 tread
compound operates well over a
broad temperature range, it is most
effective in the 160° to 200° F
range.
When preparing to take tire temperatures, the driver should
enter the
pits using moderate braking. The temperature's of the car's outside
tires
on the last corner should be taken first, followed by the inside
tires.
Depending on the distance from the last corner to the pits,
tire
temperatures may not be even across the tread face. <bold>Your
first goal
is to achieve an even temperature spread between the tire's
outside
shoulder, center, and inside
shoulder.
</bold>
Alignment Settings
Your
vehicle's alignment settings can influence the performance of your
tires and
often can be adjusted to maximize their capabilities. Like most
tires, the
V700 features a symmetric internal construction and will
require negative
camber to achieve its full potential. If camber is
adjustable, most cars will
perform best when camber is adjusted into the
- -2° to -3° range. Caster
settings can enhance straight line stability and
cornering traction, and if
adjustable, should be set at the maximum
positive value for the vehicle. Toe
settings may be adjusted to enhance
steering response and corner turn
in.
(I run +0.1 toe -- Rich)
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:56:51
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressures
My son and I drive Yoko's, but the rule of
thumb we use is 1 psi COLD per
100# of vehicle weight. For us that is 40 psi
in the front (Michael likes
42) and 38 in the back. You can tell if you
are under or overinflated by
painting the edge of the tires with white shoe
polish. It should wear off
to the shoulder of the tire. There are
usually marks on the tire indicating
where proper wear should reach.
I
do not usually adjust pressure except cold, first thing in the AM.
The
only time I relieve pressure later is if the ENVIRONMENT WARMS up a
bunch
(like we have 30 degree temperature increases sometimes in Texas), or
if the
wear indicates improper inflation. Adjusting warm tire pressure
is tricky,
unless you have a pyrometer (which I have but don't use) to
measure the
actual temperature across the tread.
I'm really surprised
that the tire guy said use the mannufacturer's nominal
pressures.
Certainly you don't want to exceed the max tire pressures, but
pressures for
the highway are designed more for passenger comfort than for
tire
performance. Track tire pressures should normally be higher than
street
pressures.
Some competition systems include relief valves that let
out pressure as the
tire heats up. In a Driver's Ed open track event,
you are only driving for
20 minutes and then the car sits around for maybe an
hour and a half before
getting back on the track. If you had relief
valves, you would wind up
adding air before every session.
My
recommendation is to set them cold in the morning, check the wear, and
adjust
pressures if you must after lunchtime.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Lasher [
SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:21 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Tire Pressures
>
> For those on the list who track
their cars, what tire pressures are you
> running? I corded my old
tires last weekend at Roebling Road, and just
> got a new set of G-Force
R1's - size 245/40-18. I had been running
> about 30 in the front
and 28 in the rear. The guy at Tire Rack told me
> to try the
G-Forces at the recommended pressure (32/29). Also, since
> these
are cold pressures, after they heat up does anyone bleed air out
> for the
next run group? After a run, my pressures go up anywhere from 6
> -
10 psi - but they usually don't drop all the way back down to the
> "cold"
pressure before my next run. Example: I start the day at 28 psi
>
cold. Following the 1st run I'm at say 38 psi hot. The car sits for an
>
hour or two until the next run, and cools down to say 32 psi. Should
I
> run at 32 psi, or bleed down to 28, or meet half-way to 30?
>
> -Steve
> '92 VR-4
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:58:04
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: More on tire temps
Steve:
For more on how to take tire
temps, and what to do about them, go to:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/bfg/bfgr12.htmlAs
luck would have it, it's the tire section for BFG R1s.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 26 Feb 2001 17:34:29
+0000
From: martin berkley <
3000gto@breathe.com>
Subject:
Team3S: UK owners only
Hi guys
This may be only of interest to UK
GT/GTO owners.
I have a spare set of new Mitsubishi NGK platinum spark plugs
for sale if anyone is interested.
They cost £88 from Mitsu will sell for £50
+ P&P
Email me privatly
Regards
Martin
___________________________________________
It's
amazing what happens when you breathe.
www.breathe.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:20:50
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to bypass...
I installed
a manual boost controller in my VR4 this weekend (ball and
spring mechanism),
but ran into some questions about the stock boost control
setup. It
looks to me like the stock boost solenoid works by bleeding off
y-pipe
pressure back into the intake (pre-turbo) at lower boost, but at
higher boost
levels it closes up and that y-pipe pressure goes to the
wastegates. Is
this correct?
In any case, I installed my boost controller in the
vacuum line running from
the y-pipe to the "H" connector, effectively keeping
the stock boost
solenoid hooked up. This blocks boost signal to the
system until my boost
controller allows it to pass through. The other
way that I saw to hook up
my controller was to put it in a vacuum line from
the y-pipe to the "H"
connector, and then unhook the vacuum line from the "H"
connector to the
stock boost solenoid and plug up that hole. This setup
would eliminate the
stock boost solenoid.
After looking online at
other people's VR4 boost controller installs, I saw
examples of both of the
setups I described in the previous paragraph.
What's the right way to install
a manual boost controller like mine? It
seems like leaving the stock
boost solenoid in the loop shouldn't make a
difference, but the engineer in
me screams to make the system as simple as
possible. :) Might the
stock boost solenoid close a little bit slowly,
delaying the response of the
wastegates once my manual boost controller
opens?
Thanks,
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:51:10
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressures
Wow, that's a good bit higher than I was
running. I used to run higher pressure - about 36 psi, but I found that
lowering the pressure gave me better grip with those old R1's. I was
running great lap times at Roebling - consistent 1:28's with a couple of
1:27's. I guess I should be thankful for getting the mileage I got with
that low pressure. I have a pyrometer in the budget, and it probably would
have helped, since I corded them in the center - not the edges. But those
tires were old anyway, at least 8 weekends. I'll try higher pressure's in
two weeks at Talladega (I'm really Sorry I'll miss
John at Road
Atlanta). I can't go too high, because the tires are rated at 44
psi. Maybe 36-38?
- -Steve
'92 VR-4
Merritt
wrote:
> At 11:21 AM 2/26/01 -0500, Steve Lasher wrote:
>
>For those on the list who track their cars, what tire pressures are
you
> >running?
>
> 44/38 cold. They will go up to 50/45
hot.
> I've run the same tire pressure in Yoko 032R and Kuhmo V700 race
tires.
>
> The biggest single way I've found to avoid cording tires
is to go to -2.5 deg camber in front.
>
> Get or borrow an infrared
pryometer. Find a place on the track immediately after some lefts and rights
where you can pull off to check tire temps. If your tire temps are within 5 deg
of each other at the inside, outside and middle, you are set up perfectly. Don't
try this at the end of a long straight, because the tire temps will equalize. I
suppose you could also try this on the street with a suitable twisty road
section, but you gotta find a place where you can get the race tires up to
temperature.
>
> If it is too hot on the outside edge, you need more
negative camber.
> If it's too hot in the middle, it is underinflated (I
might have that backward). Somewhere on the web there is a web site that shows
what to do if you have various temperature profiles.
>
> Here's the
official advice for dealing with Kuhmo tires. I suspect that it applies to your
tires in some basic way:
>
> Tire temperatures are taken with a tire
pyrometer which can measure how hard your tires are working and how evenly the
work was distributed between them during the most recent corners. While the V700
tread compound operates well over a broad temperature range, it is most
effective in the 160° to 200° F range.
>
> When preparing to take
tire temperatures, the driver should enter the pits using moderate braking. The
temperature's of the car's outside tires on the last corner should be taken
first, followed by the inside tires. Depending on the distance from the last
corner to the pits, tire temperatures may not be even across the tread face.
Your first goal is to achieve an even temperature spread between the tire's
outside shoulder, center, and inside shoulder.
>
> Alignment
Settings
>
> Your vehicle's alignment settings can influence the
performance of your tires and often can be adjusted to maximize their
capabilities. Like most tires, the V700 features a symmetric internal
construction and will require negative camber to achieve its full potential. If
camber is adjustable, most cars will perform best when camber is adjusted into
the -2° to -3° range. Caster settings can enhance straight line stability and
cornering traction, and if adjustable, should be set at the maximum positive
value for the vehicle. Toe settings may be adjusted to enhance steering response
and corner turn in.
> (I run +0.1 toe -- Rich)
>
> Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:59:47
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressures
I had shoe polish on the tires, and they
looked good. I was worried about wear,
and "rolling" since lowering my
pressure, but they kept looking fine. The new
R1's are rated at 44 psi,
so I can't go too high. You are right about the
environment warming
up. At Roebling, it was in the low-mid 40's in the morning,
and in the
low 70's by afternoon (an absolutely perfect weekend), so I figured
that was
worth 3-4 psi right there.
Hey, since you don't use that pyrometer, does it
need a good home? :-) :-)
- -Steve
'92 VR-4
"Willis,
Charles E." wrote:
> My son and I drive Yoko's, but the rule of thumb
we use is 1 psi COLD per
> 100# of vehicle weight. For us that is 40 psi
in the front (Michael likes
> 42) and 38 in the back. You can tell
if you are under or overinflated by
> painting the edge of the tires with
white shoe polish. It should wear off
> to the shoulder of the tire.
There are usually marks on the tire indicating
> where proper wear should
reach.
>
> I do not usually adjust pressure except cold, first thing
in the AM. The
> only time I relieve pressure later is if the
ENVIRONMENT WARMS up a bunch
> (like we have 30 degree temperature
increases sometimes in Texas), or if the
> wear indicates improper
inflation. Adjusting warm tire pressure is tricky,
> unless you have
a pyrometer (which I have but don't use) to measure the
> actual
temperature across the tread.
>
> I'm really surprised that the tire
guy said use the mannufacturer's nominal
> pressures. Certainly you
don't want to exceed the max tire pressures, but
> pressures for the
highway are designed more for passenger comfort than for
> tire
performance. Track tire pressures should normally be higher than
>
street pressures.
>
> Some competition systems include relief valves
that let out pressure as the
> tire heats up. In a Driver's Ed open
track event, you are only driving for
> 20 minutes and then the car sits
around for maybe an hour and a half before
> getting back on the
track. If you had relief valves, you would wind up
> adding air
before every session.
>
> My recommendation is to set them cold in
the morning, check the wear, and
> adjust pressures if you must after
lunchtime.
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Steve Lasher [
SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
>
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:21 AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Tire Pressures
>
>
> > For those on the list who track their cars, what tire
pressures are you
> > running? I corded my old tires last weekend
at Roebling Road, and just
> > got a new set of G-Force R1's - size
245/40-18. I had been running
> > about 30 in the front and 28 in
the rear. The guy at Tire Rack told me
> > to try the G-Forces at
the recommended pressure (32/29). Also, since
> > these are cold
pressures, after they heat up does anyone bleed air out
> > for the
next run group? After a run, my pressures go up anywhere from 6
>
> - 10 psi - but they usually don't drop all the way back down to the
>
> "cold" pressure before my next run. Example: I start the day at 28
psi
> > cold. Following the 1st run I'm at say 38 psi hot. The car sits
for an
> > hour or two until the next run, and cools down to say 32
psi. Should I
> > run at 32 psi, or bleed down to 28, or meet
half-way to 30?
> >
> > -Steve
> > '92 VR-4
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:56:57
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressures
I believe that wearout in the middle, as well
as overtemp in the middle
indicates OVERINFLATION, like crowning of the
tire. Excessive wearout (and
temps) on the edges indicates
underinflation, as does excessive wear too far
down on the sidewall, past the
shoulder.
Like you said, eventually the tires are gonna wear out
someplace, and I
would rather still have a little tread left on the edges
when the middle
wears through, because I am thinking that in corners, I still
want some
rubber on the road, and the edge of the tire is working the hardest
there.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Steve Lasher [
SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 12:51 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressures
>
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:03:36
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
Good stuff. When all else fails,
read the directions, eh? Thanks,
- -Steve
'92
VR-4
Merritt wrote:
> Steve:
>
> For more
on how to take tire temps, and what to do about them, go to:
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/bfg/bfgr12.html>
>
As luck would have it, it's the tire section for BFG R1s.
>
>
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:56:02
-0500
From: "Judson Smith" <
jsmith@fmbs.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1995
3000 GT Caracas Red BASE - PORTLAND, MAINE USA
Dear
List....
I am selling my 1995 Caracas Red 3000GT Base...
97,850 miles..beautiful
car. Located near Portland, Maine, USA. Per posting
rules, please respond
privately to
jsmith@fmbs.com or call phone number below for
additional
details. Asking price $10,600 b/o.
Mint condidtion. 5sp,
leather, pw, ps, pl, cruise, 6CD changer, Infinity
sound, etc. Buyer to pay
shipping costs, or pick it up themselves....
Judson Smith
phone:
1-800-800-3419 x109
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:19:43
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
Great stuff! Note the chart
showing starting cold tire pressures vs car
weight.
Also notice that
shaving tires also reduces the thickness of rubber
available for wear,
meaning they need to be replaced more often. According
to the blurb,
less heat can be retained by a shaved tire, so the tires run
cooler.
That is really counter-intuitive. If the main source of heat in
the
tire is friction between the contact patch and the road, rather than
internal
heat generated by flexion of the rubber, and a shaved tire has
less
mass, the same amount of heat will cause the temperature of the tire to
be
HIGHER, assuming the ability of the tire to get rid of heat is the same
(same
surface area).
As long as I am the one paying for my tires, I don't plan
to shave anything
off, except by braking and turning.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Lasher [
SMTP:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 1:04 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
>
> Good stuff. When
all else fails, read the directions, eh? Thanks,
>
>
-Steve
> '92 VR-4
>
>
>
> Merritt
wrote:
>
> > Steve:
> >
> > For more on how to
take tire temps, and what to do about them, go to:
> >
> >
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/bfg/bfgr12.html>
>
> > As luck would have it, it's the tire section for BFG
R1s.
> >
> > Rich/old poop