team3s Wednesday,
December 13 2000 Volume 01
: Number
350
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:59:13 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2-4 bolt -swap-
For your car, a wiring harness swap and
modification.
The Cam/Crank sensor is in the form of a distributor like
object next to the
throttle body on your car.
on the later 4 bolt, it
is located on the crank and cam area. Simply wire
the new crank/cam
sensors to your wiring harness. The signals are the same
to the ECU, so
no ECU swap would be needed.
*IF* that doesn't seem like an option,
remove the sensors and move your
sensor over to the new motors
head. I believe the cams are still slotted
for the older
sensor on the later motors.
*IF* they are not slotted, you'll have to
swap the cam(rear intake) that
doesn't have the
slot.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Stanton
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 9:47 PM
To: Team3S
Stealth
Subject: Team3S: 2-4 bolt -swap-
Hello everyone
Can
anyone tell me precisely what it is one would have to do to upgrade
their '91
TT to the 4-bolt main motor? I have someone who is selling a
motor for
a very fair price and is in great shape and would rather just
dump it in as
is.
I've heard that this requires an ECU swap and a wiring harness
swap,
anyone know for sure if the whole harness is necessary?
Any and all
help appreciated!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
_________________________________________________________
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 07:09:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trany failure rate (was: Redline bad for Getrags ??)
The
6-speed gears are more-evenly spaced than the 5-spd gears, and
are
numerically higher overall in every case. I would guess that this
would help
on the race track or the street. I really don't know if
Getrag improved the
internal design or materials. I have listed all
of the gear reduction
information and plotted speed vs RPM in all
gears for both 5-spd and 6-spd
AWD drivetrains at the url below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-gears.htmFor
1st gear the change is 3.7% higher (12.639 vs 12.189).
For 2nd gear the
change is 6.7% higher (7.368 vs 6.902).
For 3rd gear the change is 9.7%
higher (4.803 vs 4.378).
This means of course better acceleration in
every gear in the 2nd gen
cars, even without the extra engine HP, over the
stock 1st gen cars.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 12, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trany failure rate
(was: Redline bad for Getrags
??)
Jeff,
When we were talking
about what prompted Mitsubishi to change from
the 5 speed to the 6 speed, I
think I recall (no pun intended) you
saying that they were
adjusting/improving gear ratios. When I first
looked at the serivce
manual, I thought they had changed gear ratios
a lot, pretty much adding a
new lower "zero" gear, but when I sat
down and calculated the total ratio for
each gear including final
transfer, it appears that the gear ratios are the
same within about
1% as the 5 speed, except there is a new 6th gear over-over
drive. I
haven't driven the 6 speed on the track yet, but I am guessing
now
there are 2 gears I won't use, instead of just
one.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 8:39 AM
> To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trany failure rate (was: Redline bad for
> Getrags
??)
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:34:44
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trany failure rate (was: Redline bad for Getrags
??)
> I haven't driven the 6 speed on the track yet,
>but
I am guessing now there are 2 gears I won't use, instead of just
one.
>
With my 6 speed, I find that I can run almost all tracks --
including Road
America -- in 3rd and 4th.
I don't have enough hp (yet) to
pull tall mph numbers, and 4th will take me
up to around 125-130 at 7000 rpm.
You'll love the 3-4 upshift at about 105-110, when it kicks you back
into
the seat and pulls like a MF! If you ever get to Road America,
you'll
experience this at the Kink. You go through the Kink flat at about
95-100
in third, hit the 3-4 upshift, and the sumbitch starts pulling like
crazy
through the sweeping curves through the trees. It's mesmerizing!
You're
thinking, "Oh man, here I am at more than 120 mph with my foot to
the
floor, this sucker is pulling like a freight train, the car is sticking
to
the road like glue through these fabulous sweepers, that M3 is falling
back
and please let this go on forever...oh, shit, there's Canada Corner
coming
up!" What a rush! That little 1/2 mile segment of track -- from the
Kink to
Canada Corner -- is what Open Track racing is all about. I
don't know if
you get the same rush with a 5 speed, but a 6 speed works great
through
there.
If I haven't got a Cobra R trying to climb up my
tailpipe, I will shift up
into 5th and even 6th on some of the longer
straights, but it doesn'tt go
any faster. More boost!
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:02:09
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trany failure rate (was: Redline bad for Getrags ??)
So maybe
it's the same within 10% ...
Seriously, this looks like good news for
me. I run most of the track in 3rd
gear using 2nd only for the carousel
and 4th for the straight. It looks
like I'll have to upshift a little
sooner coming out of the carousel and
also up onto the main straight.
Otherwise, I'll probably be in a better
part of the torque curve for 3rd,
higher rpms and more boost. I still
expect not to use fifth
gear.
Thanks!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Trevor L. James [
SMTP:trevor@kscable.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:00 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc:
'Jeff Lucius';
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trany failure rate (was: Redline bad for Getrags
>
??)
>
> Approximate max speeds in each gear:
>
> 5
Speed
> 1: 42mph
> 2: 75
> 3: 119
> 4: 161
> 5:
201
>
> 6 Speed
> 1: 41
> 2: 70
> 3: 108
>
4: 147
> 5: 187
> 6: 233
>
> The third gear's where the
big difference is. In stock form the six speeds
> pull
> much harder
in third gear and redline going through the traps. Almost
>
perfect
> for drag racing. :)
>
> Trev
> 96 R/T
TT
> Former 91 R/T TT owner
>
> "Willis, Charles E."
wrote:
>
> > Jeff,
> >
> > When we were
talking about what prompted Mitsubishi to change from the 5
> > speed
to the 6 speed, I think I recall (no pun intended) you saying that
> >
they were adjusting/improving gear ratios. When I first looked at
the
> > serivce manual, I thought they had changed gear ratios a lot,
pretty
> much
> > adding a new lower "zero" gear, but when I sat
down and calculated the
> total
> > ratio for each gear including
final transfer, it appears that the gear
> > ratios are the same within
about 1% as the 5 speed, except there is a
> new
> > 6th gear
over-over drive. I haven't driven the 6 speed on the track
>
yet,
> > but I am guessing now there are 2 gears I won't use, instead
of just
> one.
> >
> > Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:24:58
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Steerin wheel..
The outside diameter is a shade over 15" or 380mm ---- I
just installed the Momo
Apache which is 13.3 or 340mm, I love it. The smaller
diameter and flattened
bottom allow for better feel, easier entrance/exit
and more freedom while driving.
Of course being 6' 3", these things are
important to me.
For those who care, I made a hybrid hub --- Momo/stock
combo which allowed me
to salvage the clock spring so I could reinstall the
cruse control [ required for me ]
and the radio controls if I want, I also
installed a scramble boost button on the wheel.
I extended the wheel
out about 1" which gives me a better position when I drive with
the seat all
the way back.
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 11, 2000 10:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: Steerin
wheel..
> Can someone tell me the fricken diameter of the VR4
steering wheel
> puhhleaze?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:32:02
-0700
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New problem...anyone?
I have the same problem. It
almost acts as if it vapor locking. Never did
find a fix for it
either. Only difference is, I didn't fix a leak in
my
intercooler.
Ken W.
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 11, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: New
problem...anyone?
> Okay, well it only seems right that a new
problem would develop the day
> after I fix a 1/4" hole in one of my
intercoolers. Here's the deal. The
> car starts up fine when
the engine is cold (like in the morning), but when
I
> start up the
engine when it's already warm(like getting back in my car
after
> some
Johnny Rockets), it idles at around 400rpm and will stall if I don't
> gas
it a little. It will settle down after about 2 minutes, but feels
a
> little sluggish after that. I don't seem to feel the
sluggishness when it
> starts from a cold state(after it heats up of
course).
>
> Assuming that the engine isn't sluggish after it
settles down, what might
> the problem be, since I can't really prove that
the car is sluggish.
> Assuming that the engine is a little sluggish after
it settles down, what
> might the problem be?
>
> This one
really has me perplexed....
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> 92 R/T
TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:06:09
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2-4 bolt -swap-
I went from a 2-4bolt main and I didn't have to
rewire the cam/crank angle
sensors. I kept my original heads so I
didn't have to switch the ECU or
cam/crank angle sensor. I guess if you
went to newer heads (which isn't
necessary), you would have to rewire the
sensors.
The only things that I needed were a 2nd gen oil pan, sump,
front and rear
crankseal housings, and a lower timing belt cover. I
think that was it. I
did the work in my garage over the summer and I am
very pleased with the
results.
Chris
92 R/T TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>
For your car, a wiring harness swap and modification.
>
> The
Cam/Crank sensor is in the form of a distributor like object next
to
the
> throttle body on your car.
>
> on the later 4
bolt, it is located on the crank and cam area. Simply wire
> the new
crank/cam sensors to your wiring harness. The signals are
the
same
> to the ECU, so no ECU swap would be needed.
>
>
*IF* that doesn't seem like an option, remove the sensors and move your
>
sensor over to the new motors head. I believe the cams are
still
slotted
> for the older sensor on the later
motors.
>
> *IF* they are not slotted, you'll have to swap the
cam(rear intake) that
> doesn't have the
slot.
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/>
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 18:15:34
EST
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: E-Ram Charger?
-
--part1_a2.d666ccd.27680b96_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Has anyone done any
research of have any feeling on the E-Ram Electric
charger(
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/)?
I was thinking of getting one
of these instead of a filter charger in my
Stealth.
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
-
--part1_a2.d666ccd.27680b96_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Has anyone done any research of have any feeling on the E-Ram Electric
<BR>charger(
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/)?
I was thinking of getting one <BR>of these instead of a filter
charger in my Stealth.
<BR>Chris
<BR>1992 Dodge Stealth
ES</FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_a2.d666ccd.27680b96_boundary--
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 18:55:08
-0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Jim - Steering wheel
>
> For those who care, I made a
hybrid hub --- Momo/stock combo which allowed
me
> to salvage the clock
spring so I could reinstall the cruse control [
required for me ]
> and
the radio controls if I want, I also installed a scramble boost button
on the
wheel.
> I extended the wheel out about 1" which gives me a better
position when I
drive with
> the seat all the way
back.
>
> Jim
Berry
Jim:
Got any pictures? The cruise control
interests me - I haven't gone to an
aftermarket wheel for that reason (and
the big ugly hub left behind). I
would love to see your
solution...
BTW, what's a scramble boost button?
Roger
Roskam
91 Indy Stealth RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 00:05:19
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Conversion
I'm looking to convert my everyday driving car, a 1997
3000GT to a SL... or basically I want to drop the DOHC engine into the car to
get a bit more power. I've already learned that it'd cost far too much
money and a great deal to try and convert it into a VR-4, but I was wondering if
all I need a great many parts to convert the base model to an SL. It's my
understanding that there's not that many parts that different between these two
cars, especially since they were virtually the same car before 1995. Has
anyone done the conversion or can anyone tell me what I'll need to do it?
Thanks.
John
1997 3000GT
Get your free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com/eyelandreg.jspSend
& receive large files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:22:31
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: E-Ram Charger?
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
The68th@aol.com>
> Has anyone done
any research of have any feeling on the E-Ram Electric
> charger(
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/)?
I was thinking of
getting one
> of these instead of a filter charger in
my Stealth.
> Chris
> 1992 Dodge Stealth ES
>
The
K&N "filtercharger", K&N FIPK, or even stock airbox systems
are
required for proper intake filtration whether you consider the eRAM
or
not. They have nothing to do with the eRAM, which accelerates
intake
air and increases pressure by 1 psi, for an 8-10HP performance
gain
(12-15HP for the Super eRAM). You'll find my eRAM write-up on our
FAQ
pages,
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm
. Be aware that some intake redesign is
necessary to get either eRAM to
fit - do a search of "intake redesign"
and "eRam" to read up on past
posts:
www.Team3S.com/Search.htm So
as
not to destroy the intake 'hose', I cut off the 90degree elbow from
a
VR4 Y-pipe, then the Super eRAM, then a 3" black plastic waste
elbow
(plumbing store) to fashion an attachment to the back of the MAS
unit
(which I had to move about 3" with a makeshift bracket). The
finished
setup was never dynoed, since I removed it for inspection and
haven't
put it back yet. Pictures and writeup on the web page, coming
soon...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 22:59:34
-0500 (EST)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: Rotors
and Brake pads opinion - a minor brake upgrade.
Hello
everyone,
With my rotors and pads at the end of their useful lives, I am
considering
an upgrade. My 94 TT is my daily driver, and will probably
never (or
hopefully seldom) be used on the track, however, I would like to
have
better than stock brakes. I have had a few instances in which I
had brake
fades at critical moments, and believe me, its no FUN.
I don't want to go all out with the $1500 and up kits, however I
am
willing to pay $500 ~ $800 or so for a better setup. I have pretty
much
made up my mind in buying Porterfield Cryogenically treated
Slotted
rotors. They are advertised for $370 for the front pair,
however, with
the 20% 3SI list discount, it comes out to $296. What do
you guys think
about them? Could I possibly get some bigger rotors
without having to
upgrade anything else, or what other suggestions do you
guys have for
something in this price range???
My next thing was the
pads. Ken Middaugh recommended KFP race pads due to
their great ability
to stop the car very well, although they dust a lot.
I want the power to be
able to break from any speed my car is capable of
doing, and perhaps not only
once. I don't do road courses, however, I do
play on the highway with
other sporty cars and get up in the 150 mph on a
regular basis. I have
never had to slam on the brakes at those speeds,
but there were plenty of
time that I had to do 120 - 80 mph stops
repeatedly. Ken said that
these racing pads are great because they don't
squeak while cold, grip
immediately even if cold, resist fade well, but
they dust a lot and don't
last a long time. They also cost about $140 for
the fronts. This
all sounds ideal, except for the dusting and longevity.
If anyone else has
other ideas, I would appreciate some input on what some
of you have and how
you like them. By the way, I also considered
Porterfield's pads, R4,
RS4, R4E, but I don't know the difference between
them, so your input is
highly recommended for my type of application.
I also wanted to upgrade
to braided steel lines. I know I could get them
from Carparts for $130,
however, Porterfield said they can make them for
about $100, and after the
discount, they come out to $80. It sounds like
a good deal to me, as
long as their quality would not be any less than
what I would find at
Carparts.
One last thing: I, as well as my brother, also
need to upgrade our BOV
valves. For me, I don't care if it makes noise,
I just want it to hold as
much boost as possible in case I decide to do more
upgrades later. For my
brother, he want one as quiet as possible.
Neither of us are mechanics,
so we would prefer a bolt on. What do you
guys recommend, besides the 1G
DSM one.
Thanks for listening,
and hope to hear from some of you.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N, Autometer Boost Gauge, Greddy EGT Gauge
&
Mike
95 Red VR-4
Apexi AVC-R, K&N, Autometer Boost Gauge, Greddy
EGT Gauge
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 23:17:36
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Steerin wheel..
What adapter do I want from MOMO if I dont
have any of the stock hardware
concerns you have.
Thanks
On
Tue, 12 Dec 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> The outside diameter is a shade
over 15" or 380mm ---- I just installed the Momo
> Apache which is 13.3 or
340mm, I love it. The smaller diameter and flattened
> bottom allow for
better feel, easier entrance/exit and more freedom while driving.
> Of
course being 6' 3", these things are important to me.
>
> For
those who care, I made a hybrid hub --- Momo/stock combo which allowed
me
> to salvage the clock spring so I could reinstall the cruse control [
required for me ]
> and the radio controls if I want, I also installed a
scramble boost button on the wheel.
> I extended the wheel out about
1" which gives me a better position when I drive with
> the seat all the
way back.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =========================================================
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 10:53 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Steerin
wheel..
>
>
> > Can someone tell me the fricken diameter
of the VR4 steering wheel
> > puhhleaze?
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 23:27:51
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: My Email Addr:
Is:
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com should
anyone have questions about our VR4
project..or anything else outside strict
mental DNA Xfer of relevant VR4
"stuff".
- -hasta
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 22:27:39
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hatch Lid Leak
Hello,
I have a small leaky
situation, which is pretty obvious after a short rain
and upon opening the
hatch lid. As i raise it the water rushes down and
pours out the upper
corners.
Now, im smart enough to know that the water sloshing around into
the
interior isnt good, so i was wondering if this condition occurs very
often
or not ( i didnt find mention in the archives) and if anyone had a
simple
solution. I kind of came to the conclusion it was probably along
the window
towards the bottom that may need some sealant or to be re-set (i
probably
answered my own inquery).
thanks and green holiday
wishes,
john
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 08:23:21
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
New problem...anyone?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu
[
mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, December 13, 2000 8:22 AM
To:
shmacker@home.comSubject: New
problem...anyone?
Chris,
This problem has nothing to do with
your intercoolers. Both my brother (94
TT) and I (95 VR4) have
experienced what you are describing on our cars,
however this was never
experienced on the family's SOHC Stealth. Here's my
conclusion:
The rough idling NEVER happens in the morning (ie. cold start).
But it does
happen on relatvely warm starts such as when you go to the store
and stay 1/2
hour (time of course depends on temp outside), then you try
restarting the
car and it idles roughly. It doesn't idle roughly all the
time, so that
goes to show you that the estimated 1/2 hour is variable. I
think it is
coolant thermostat related. The thermostat tells the engine it
is still
warm. The engine instead of starting up and keeping the rev up @
2000
RPM until it gets the oil pressure back up to normal, it wants to rev @
750
RPM. Not enough oil pressure and your car will stall.
I hope
nobody's going to shoot me if I don't have the exact explanation
correct,
however the fact remains that this is a bug (that I can live with)
in two
cars in my family unless someone has a remedy. I posted this
question
before to the list and nobody could give me a solution. Let's wait
and
see. Also, this problem happens very seldomly, and it happened
both
before and after the boost controller installations.
94 TT
(68,000 miles)
95 VR4 (37,000 miles)
Don't worry about this
problem. Keep the engine reved @ 2000 RPM for a few
seconds and it goes
away.
Good luck.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
-
----------------------------------
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
New problem...anyone?
SNIP
>The
>car starts up fine when the
engine is cold (like in the morning), but when
I
>start up the engine
when it's already warm(like getting back in my car
after
>some Johnny
Rockets), it idles at around 400rpm and will stall if I don't
>gas it a
little. It will settle down after about 2 minutes, but feels
a
>little sluggish after that. I don't seem to feel the sluggishness
when it
>starts from a cold state(after it heats up of
course).
>SNIP
>
>Chris
>92 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 09:25:29
-0500
From: "
ukyo@speedfactory.net" <
ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Underdrive pulley(s)
I am looking to get some underdrive pulleys
for my SOHC 3000GT.
Problem is the only model I have found (Unorthodox Ultra
S) is listed
as only for the DOHC engine. Am I wrong in thinking the
pulley will
still work? The only difference in the engines is the cams,
right?
If so, that should have no bearing on the pulley? I'd like to
go
ahead with this mod as they claim a ~2.5 HP gain per each pound
lost.
The conversion chart on Unorthodox's page says I will lose right
at
6 lbs. If the calculations are even close to correct I stand to
gain
between 12 - 15 HP from this bolt on. If it'll work, I really
want
to do it.
Unorthodox lists the part as working on all
92-99 3000GTs, but every
retailer I have looked at has only listed them as
for the DOHC. I
don't want to waste ~$200 if it will not work.
Any help or opinions
will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:02:53
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Race seats in daily-driven cars
Does anybody use a race seat in
their daily driver? I am looking for
recommendations of driving seats
with some good lumbar support and not a
straight back.
If any road
racing guys use their as a daily driver (not many) or maybe the
AutoX guys
who have race seats are my best bet.
Any other input is great. A
friend said his Momo Corso seat had not enough
lumbar (or none) and until you
get to the track it is uncomfortable. I
don't know if it had tilt
adjustment.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:08:47
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Heated seats
Has anyone modified their seats to be heated
(generally only on leather and
not cloth seats). My wife's New Beetle
has upstaged me and I need to get
back in the lead.
I'm not sure if
this is ever an aftermarket add-on.
- --Flash!
... and cold buns in
these cold winter mornings
3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK,
Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#350
*********************
