team3s
Monday, December 4
2000 Volume 01
: Number
339
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Dec 2000 12:27:29 -0600
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Defroster vents
Hi Guys,
Could somebody tell how
the windshield defroster vents are held in
place? Can they be replaced from
the top or are they held down by screws
from the bottom? I have tried to look
under my dash and can't see any
way to get to them.
-
--
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 11:37:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Defroster vents
Remove the -entire- dash. Then you can
replace them easily.
On Sun, 3 Dec 2000, Dale T. Kroetz
wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> Could somebody tell
how the windshield defroster vents are held in
> place? Can they be
replaced from the top or are they held down by screws
> from the bottom? I
have tried to look under my dash and can't see any
> way to get to
them.
>
> --
>
>
>
> Dale T.
Kroetz
>
kroetz@mvn.net>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:09:38
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Defroster vents
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale T.
Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
> Hi
Guys,
> Could somebody tell how the windshield
defroster vents are held in
> place? Can they be replaced from the top or
are they held down by screws
> from the bottom? I have tried to look under
my dash and can't see any
> way to get to them.
> Dale T.
Kroetz
>
kroetz@mvn.netHey,
Dale,
You have to remove the dash first; the vents are held in
place by 2 screws...
For chapter and verse, do a search (
www.Team3S.com/Search.htm ) and
enter
"defroster vents". Matt (and others) answered the question once
before, so it's
in the archives, listed in the search results..
Good
luck - it's not a fun project, replacing cracked vents... It happens
to
everyone who has to park in the sun
regularly.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 14:22:19
-0600
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Re: Team3S:
Defroster vents
> place? Can they be replaced from the top or are they
held down by screws
> from the bottom? I have tried to look under my dash
and can't see any
> way to get to them.
You can replace them from
the top if you don't mind breaking the
plastic in the dash where the vents
screw in. I didn't want to go
through the headache of removing the entire
dash, so I used a
flathead screwdriver and a pair of pliers and very
carefully snapped
the vents out where they screwed in. I needed pliers to
break the
screws out in a couple of places.
I applied silicone
sealant generously to the replacement vents at
the three screw-points and
sat them into the holes. I used a folded-
up towel to hold the new vents
snugly in the holes while the
silicone adhesive set (about a day or so).
I realize that this requires breaking a few screwholes in your dash,
but it didn't bother me since I'll probably never take out my dash,
and
no one will ever know the difference.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 21:58:28
-0500
From: "Lorne Silkes" <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Team3S: Driveshaft
and/or carrier bushings
I've was driving my VR4 a few weeks ago home from
Boston and it started to
make a clunk once and a while. By the time I
got home the sound had become
a very load whiring noise (my girlfriend's
daughter said it sounded like a
helicopter). I had it towed down to my
parents house where all my tools are
and I finally got a chance to look at it
today. I had decided it was
something in th drive line somewhere after
the tranny because the noise was
definately coming from behind me. I tried
turning the driveshaft by hand and
there was almost no freeplay and the
ujoints seemed fine, but I noticed if I
pushed up on it near either of the
two carrier bushings it vould be moved
over in inch at both bushings. Is this
normal? I assume both bushings are
shot. The next question is has
anyone had to change these? Can they be
replaced or are they considered
part of the driveshaft? If available
separately, What's involved in changing
them? Is it possible to do it myself
or is it a dealer / shop
thing?
Thanks,
Lorne
vr4@cwia.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 20:43:23
-0700
From: Manoj Prasad <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Defroster vents
If you plan on replacing your windshield in
the near future, wait for that
day and do it then. It took me about 25
to 30 minutes to do the work and 5
hours to let the silicone dry. I did it
over a year ago and still looks
great.
If you go that route, let me
know and I can type something up as a guide.
Rgds
Moe
"Dale T.
Kroetz" wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> Could
somebody tell how the windshield defroster vents are held in
> place? Can
they be replaced from the top or are they held down by screws
> from the
bottom? I have tried to look under my dash and can't see any
> way to get
to them.
>
> --
>
> Dale T. Kroetz
>
kroetz@mvn.net>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 22:02:17
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Driveshaft and/or carrier bushings
Mine was replaced under warranty on my
'94. The dealership told me that
Mistubishi specified a complete
driveshaft in this case. Perhaps the
carrier isn't available
separately, I rerally do not know, but I did
question them on it at the time
(2+ years ago) and they said this was the
way Mitsu specified handling the
problem.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Lorne Silkes
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 7:58 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Driveshaft and/or carrier bushings
>
>
> I've
was driving my VR4 a few weeks ago home from Boston and it started to
>
make a clunk once and a while. By the time I got home the sound
>
had become
> a very load whiring noise (my girlfriend's daughter said it
sounded like a
> helicopter). I had it towed down to my parents house
where all my
> tools are
> and I finally got a chance to look at it
today. I had decided it was
> something in th drive line somewhere
after the tranny because the
> noise was
> definately coming from
behind me. I tried turning the driveshaft
> by hand and
> there was
almost no freeplay and the ujoints seemed fine, but I
> noticed if
I
> pushed up on it near either of the two carrier bushings it vould be
moved
> over in inch at both bushings. Is this normal? I assume both
bushings are
> shot. The next question is has anyone had to change
these? Can they be
> replaced or are they considered part of the
driveshaft? If available
> separately, What's involved in changing them?
Is it possible to
> do it myself
> or is it a dealer / shop
thing?
>
> Thanks,
> Lorne
>
vr4@cwia.com>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 21:06:19
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driveshaft and/or carrier bushings
I complained about excessive movement
in the rubber isolation bushings
over a year ago --- nobody seemed to think
it was a problem at that time.
My complaint was that under load I get a lot
of vibration in the gear shift
lever which I attributed to the slop in the
bushings. I still have the same
problem but nothing has fallen apart
yet.
Jim
Berry
========================================
I tried turning
the driveshaft by hand and
> there was almost no freeplay and the ujoints
seemed fine, but I noticed if I
> pushed up on it near either of the two
carrier bushings it vould be moved
> over in inch at both bushings. Is
this normal? I assume both bushings are
> shot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 21:11:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Defroster vents
*heh*
The saved effort seems worth 20
seconds with a hammer, and the $50
deductable.
On Sun, 3 Dec 2000,
Manoj Prasad wrote:
> If you plan on replacing your windshield in the
near future, wait for that
> day and do it then. It took me about 25
to 30 minutes to do the work and 5
> hours to let the silicone dry. I did
it over a year ago and still looks
> great.
>
> If you go
that route, let me know and I can type something up as a guide.
>
>
Rgds
> Moe
>
> "Dale T. Kroetz" wrote:
>
> >
Hi Guys,
> > Could somebody tell how the
windshield defroster vents are held in
> > place? Can they be replaced
from the top or are they held down by screws
> > from the bottom? I
have tried to look under my dash and can't see any
> > way to get to
them.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Dale T.
Kroetz
> >
kroetz@mvn.net>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 07:32:06
-0500
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S: What
do I do now?
Hi all,
I am the guy that had the timing belt let
loose. I just got it back from
the expensive dealer that serviced
it. The bill was rather interesting to
say the least, over 3k
damnit. I was going to look into another engine but
by the time I had
called him he had the thing fixed.
Anyway, the thing still hesitates
under full acceleration and the 1-2 syncro
still needs replaced. Bbizo
told me that because the thing had regular
unleaded fuel in it the ECU needed
time to readjust. Since it has been a
while the ECU will probably need
reset. If that is the case would it be
easier to upgrade the thing and
just replace it or should I just get it
looked at and by whom?
Definitely not the dealer that serviced the timing
belt, too expensive.
Would it be possible for me to handle it? If not, who
around
Southwestern PA could?
Then there is the 1-2 syncro. I know I can
get the replacement from Kormex
but I am almost contemplating replacing the
thing myself. Although, I have
a bad feeling that I might be getting
into a huge headache. I have HELPED
work on trannies before but they
where mostly automatics (Chrysler 727
torqueflights) but I have not worked on
any standard transmissions. I'm
also running low on tools because I
just moved and I was sponging off of my
friends before, so I would need to
get some. I have seen standards ripped
open a couple of times but
that's it. What would it cost me to have it done
by someone else and
there again, what place would it be good and take it to
in the Southwestern
PA area. I would even go to someplace in the tri-state
region if I need
to.
Michael Donnelly,
94 R/T TT
62000 miles and still
hurting
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 14:51:49
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What do I do now?
>Anyway, the thing still hesitates under
full acceleration and the 1-2 syncro
>still needs replaced. Bbizo
told me that because the thing had regular
>unleaded fuel in it the ECU
needed time to readjust. Since it has been a
>while the ECU will
probably need reset. If that is the case would it be
>easier to
upgrade the thing and just replace it or should I just get it
>looked at
and by whom?
The ECU readjusts over the time but you should not feel any
hesitation
after about 30 miles anymore. No ECU reset is necessary because
on the
rebuild, the ECU was out of power and started from scratch
then.
> Definitely not the dealer that serviced the
timing
>belt, too expensive. Would it be possible for me to handle
it? If not, who
>around Southwestern PA could?
Are you sure
the timing belt is aligned properly ? In my point of view,
this must be
solved by the mechanic who did the rebuild (3k is a normal
cost for this
procedure) . Also, the problem could be fuel related and the
mechanic should
measure the fuel pressure to find out the problem. Even
more, it is possible
that you run close to lean or overrich what bove can
cause the hesitation.
Then it is always possible that you run under much
higher bosot than you
should due to a leaky hose. Have you check this too ?
Last but not least the
wires and plugs could also be the problem.
Hope this helps a
little
Roger ,Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 06:14:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What do I do now?
Hi Michael,
Sorry to hear about your
troubles.
This "ECU resetting" to solve engine problems or after
upgrades has
got to be one of the worse myths about our cars. If it makes you
feel
better just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30
seconds
or unplug fuse #19 inside for the same time period. Be sure
the
ignition is off in either case. For the straight poop on
"ECU
resetting" check out the following link.
http://www.tmo.com/theory/myth/ecureset.htmThere
is no "upgrading" the ECU (though a daughter board can be
installed to modify
the programming). Yours is probably just fine.
Sometimes the capacitors
inside go bad; if you take the ECU out
(easy) you might take a look
inside.
If you decide to pull the trany yourself then please check out my
web
page below for some tips and pictures.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htmMuch
more information is available on the Tech and Garage pages at my
web site.
The Team3S archives and 3SI message board should have some
tips on working on
the insides of the manual transaxle.
Good luck,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 04, 2000 5:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: What do I do
now?
Hi all,
I am the guy that had the timing belt let
loose. I just got it back
from the expensive dealer that serviced
it. The bill was rather
interesting to say the least, over 3k
damnit. I was going to look
into another engine but by the time I had
called him he had the thing
fixed.
Anyway, the thing still hesitates
under full acceleration and the 1-2
syncro still needs replaced. Bbizo
told me that because the thing
had regular unleaded fuel in it the ECU needed
time to readjust.
Since it has been a while the ECU will probably need
reset. If that
is the case would it be easier to upgrade the thing and
just replace
it or should I just get it looked at and by whom?
Definitely not the
dealer that serviced the timing belt, too expensive.
Would it be
possible for me to handle it? If not, who around
Southwestern PA
could?
Then there is the 1-2 syncro. I know I
can get the replacement from
Kormex but I am almost contemplating replacing
the thing myself.
Although, I have a bad feeling that I might be getting
into a huge
headache. I have HELPED work on trannies before but they
where
mostly automatics (Chrysler 727 torqueflights) but I have not
worked
on any standard transmissions. I'm also running low on tools
because
I just moved and I was sponging off of my friends before, so I
would
need to get some. I have seen standards ripped open a couple
of
times but that's it. What would it cost me to have it done
by
someone else and there again, what place would it be good and take
it
to in the Southwestern PA area. I would even go to someplace in
the
tri-state region if I need to.
Michael Donnelly,
94 R/T
TT
62000 miles and still hurting
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 10:05:46
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 8th Annual Norwalk DSM Shootout
Congrats to Jack T. (94 VR-4) and
Vineet Singh (92 Stealth) who placed first
and second at this year's DSM
Shootout at Norwalk, OH.
This was covered in the latest Sport Compact Car
magazine complete with a
picture of Jack T. at the starting line (boy does
that car look basically
stock from the outside).
Glad to see we
finally get some coverage from a magazine also. Congrats and
we'll try
to make a big showing next year as well.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 09:30:16
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch adjustment help?
Either of you guys using RedLine
fluid in the transaxle and transfer case?
Last time I had similar shifting
problems, I changed fluid and the problem
mysteriously disappeared, though
not immediately. Cold shifting into
reverse is immediately
better. I had replaced my clutch booster without
improvement.
Someone talked about bleeding the clutch hydralic system,
which seems like a
good idea. When the car is sitting still, you are
probably at idle,
which means you might have less vacuum on the clutch
booster. Also,
check to see if there is a possibility of (intermittant)
mechanical
interference with the shifter cable attachments on the transaxle.
It's
possible for the bypass valve assembly and hoses to hang down where
they
touch the shifter.
Oh yeah, check the vacuum hose on the clutch
booster. It gets old and can
leak.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [
SMTP:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 10:24 AM
> To:
kalla@tripoint.org> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch adjustment help?
>
> Hi Walton,
>
> I experience these symptoms too. My clutch
engagement/disengagement point
> sometimes becomes closer to the floor
making it more difficult to shift
> from a
> standstill (when
moving, shifting is always easy because of synchros).
> I've
>
replaced the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, bled the
>
system
> several times, and adjusted the pedal. I haven't replaced
the vacuum
> booster
> though. I still occasionally get the
symptoms, usually when it gets very
> cold.
> Maybe the problem is
fluid related.
>
> If your engagement/disengagement point is always
close to the floor, you
> can
> adjust the clutch pedal.
Lengthen the rod that goes from the clutch pedal
> into
> the vacuum
booster (under the dash). A little goes a long way, so try 1/2
>
turn
> increments to see if that helps.
>
> Good
luck,
> Ken
>
>
> > I was driving around last
night dialing in my boost controller, and at a
> stop, I
> > had
to apply more than the usual amount of force to put the car into
> first
or
> > second gear from neutral. A couple of times after coming to a
stop it
> almost
> > didn't want to go into first gear at all. It
didn't grind or anything
> like that, the
> > shifter resisted
moving.
> >
> > I don't seem to have this trouble from a
roll, as a matter of fact, it
> shifts
> > really smoothly when
I'm already in motion.
> >
> > I parked the car on a flat
surface, put it in first, pushed the clutch
> pedal to
> > the
floor, applied throttle, and slowly let out the clutch pedal. The
>
vr-4
> > started to move almost immediatly after I let the pedal out a
very tiny
> > amount.
> >
> > I just replaced my
clutch about 5000 miles ago.
> >
> > What's going on here?
Does my clutch pedal need adjustment, or might
> > there be an issue
with the master cylinder?
>
> --
> If you lived in your
car, you'd be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 09:43:51
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch adjustment help?
> booster without improvement.
Someone talked about bleeding the clutch
> hydralic system, which seems
like a good idea. When the car is
I bled my clutch saturday
afternoon and it did not seem to help very
much. Clutch engagement is still
very very close to the floor. A lot
of air did come out of the clutch line
though.
I noticed some of what appeared to be clutch fluid had collected
directly underneath the end of the shifter fork on top of the
transaxle.
The master cylinder was not low though. Could this be
that the slave
cylinder is getting ready to go out?
> less vacuum on the clutch
booster. Also, check to see if there is a
> possibility of
(intermittant) mechanical interference with the shifter
I did this too,
and there is plenty of clearance. The BOV is tied up
with a cable tie so
that it does not interfere. I did notice that the
shifter cables are fairly
loose fitting where they join with the linkage
to the actual transaxle (the
connection points with the cotter pins).
Are those supposed to be
loose?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 10:17:11
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 8th Annual Norwalk DSM Shootout
> Congrats to Jack T. (94
VR-4) and Vineet Singh (92 Stealth)
> who placed first and second at this
year's DSM Shootout
> at Norwalk, OH.
Yup, and I'll probably be
back with my car even more pumped up next year to
wrangle 2nd place back from
Vineet next year. ;-) It was a lot of fun, and
I hope that we can
get more 3/S cars to participate next year. This year
was much better
for competition than the year before where we had three
cars.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Just put in an ACT clutch,
getting HKS intercoolers and hard pipe kit, etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 08:30:53
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driveshaft and/or carrier bushings
> I've was driving my
VR4 a few weeks ago home from Boston and it started to
> make a clunk once
and a while. By the time I got home the sound had become
> a very
load whiring noise (my girlfriend's daughter said it sounded like a
>
helicopter). I had it towed down to my parents house where all my tools
are
> and I finally got a chance to look at it today. I had decided
it was
> something in th drive line somewhere after the tranny because the
noise was
> definately coming from behind me. I tried turning the
driveshaft by hand and
> there was almost no freeplay and the ujoints
seemed fine, but I noticed if I
> pushed up on it near either of the two
carrier bushings it vould be moved
> over in inch at both bushings. Is
this normal? I assume both bushings are
> shot. The next
question is has anyone had to change these? Can they be
> replaced
or are they considered part of the driveshaft? If available
> separately,
What's involved in changing them? Is it possible to do it myself
> or is
it a dealer / shop thing?
I replaced my carrier bearings last year.
They are about $53 each from one of
the list's discount Mitsu dealers.
(By the way, Norco Mitsu now ships free of
charge!). I tried to do it
myself, but gave up after I didn't have large enough
sockets. With an
air impact wrench and large sockets, it is probably doable. I
don't
know if you need a press or not. I had a local trusted shop do my
work
and I think it was about $120 for labor or so.
The rubber
bushings in my bearings were shot which resulted in lots of movement
and
clunking. New bearings solved this problem.
Good luck,
Ken
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 08:44:08
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch adjustment help?
> I bled my clutch saturday
afternoon and it did not seem to help very
> much. Clutch engagement is
still very very close to the floor. A lot
> of air did come out of the
clutch line though.
>
> I noticed some of what appeared to be
clutch fluid had collected
> directly underneath the end of the shifter
fork on top of the
> transaxle. The master cylinder was not low though.
Could this be
> that the slave cylinder is getting ready to go
out?
Could be, I too had a puddle and replaced the slave. You can
get a slave
cylinder rebuild kit for about $7, or a whole new cylinder for
about $40. Funny
thing, my new slave cylinder blew it's seal after 1
year, then I just used the
rebuild kit. I am starting to suspect the
Valvoline Synthetic fluid I'm
using...
- --
If you lived in your
car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
- Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 11:47:50
-0500
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject:
Team3S: shift light???
Any of you guys know of a good stand alone
shift light? I know
AutoMeter makes a few,but I want one that will just tap
into the tac
wires without a lot of other crap to hook up,and one that would
be easy
to change max shift RPM's when needed.If you know of something like
I
want.send the info to my E-mail address so as not to fill
the
list.Thanks,
RICK
'91 Red Base
'91 Red R/T
'92 Blue R/T T/T
Stealths
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 15:29:16
-0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP
Guys,
I know this gets asked
time and time again, and I have read thru past
mail.. I am trying to
decide which way to go with a few Mods for my VR4..
Since every situation is
different, I would really appreciate a few
opinions..
First
off, This is my every day car RIGHT NOW.. I am planning on
getting
another vehicle eventually but Im at least a year
away..
My goal is to reach 400HP w/o reducing longevity of the
engine as best I
can..
Basically my Hp needs are strictly for street
fun.. Not to mention, My
plan is to make this as much of a show car as
a racer.. I have already made
plans for a Cat Back exhaust
system(Borla) and a Boost controller.. I
already have the K&N Cold Air
Induction.. What might be my next move?
Since I am planning
on making my VR4 for show as well as speed, I have
changed my Shift Knob and
have made plans for changing my foot peddles. I
also have OZ Racing
Wheels.. Just a little FYI of what I have done..
Any
reccomendations would be appreciated.. Note that I am very new to
this
but have moderate engine knowledge.. If any of your reccomendations
include
anything other than Bolt-On Performance, I will probably need a
suggestion on
where to go for tuning.. I live in Jacksonville, Fl and know
of a few main
streem performance shops such as Speed Tech.. But I also know
a tuner who
normally works on Nissan's but I have some confidence that he
would be able
to handle most needs I might have..
Thanks in advance for any help you
experts can give me..
Scott
94 3000VR4 K&N CAIS(Green)
94
3000SL Borla CatBack(awaiting sale)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#339
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