Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, August 14
2001 Volume 01 : Number
576
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:05:14 -0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
> Anyone who has
installed the Ground Control system. How difficult of
an install is it. Just
a matter of taking out the struts, adding the
sleeves and springs and
reinstalling? Or is that vastly
oversimplified? (I already know how to take
out the struts)
> Ryan Peterson
>
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----------------------
Dennis Bretton documented the entire process,
with pictures, 'what
tools you need', etc. It's on our website
at:
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-GCinstall.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:12:24
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation at less than 50% throttle
When I am accelerating up to
speed through second and third gears there is a
hesitation between
2,500-3,000 RPMs. The hesitation sometimes occurs twice
in this RPM
range. It only occurs with less than 50% throttle and it feels
like I
let up on the gas but then when it passes ~3,000 RPMs it returns to
pulling
smoothly.
At first I thought the clutch might be slipping, but it doesn't
occur at
WOT. Any ideas?
Michael D. Crose
1992 VR-4
Test
pipe, FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:31:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ryan,
I have some
tips for the GC kit at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmFor
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my
web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmSo
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I
thought it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and
so started with
400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so).
Those springs were
horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it
could make you car sick.
That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the
ECS is Sport mode the bounce is
fairly eliminated but the struts pass
every little bump in the road up to the
driver. I then installed 500
lb/in springs. Not really much
difference.
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt
J.) and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When
the
car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull
back
a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and push
out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves
up; suspension compresses).
The GC springs are shorter than stock and
just sit there. They cannot get
involved when the suspension is
expanding. They can only "push back" when the
suspension is
compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
expands.
I am considering going to 700 lb/in springs, but
I don't see how they
can make the bounce any better - at least with stock
ECS
struts/shocks in Tour mode. So I am also considering going to the
Tein
suspension. There is really nothing wrong with the stock setup,
except I like
the car about 1" lower than stock.
Does anyone know if the Tein Springs
are "trapped" the way the stock
springs are?
Does anyone with Teins
think the ride is too bouncy?
Am I the only one who thinks the GC springs
have too bouncy a ride?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
To: "Stealth List"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, August 12, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard
to install?
Anyone who has installed the Ground Control system. How
difficult of
an install is it. Just a matter of taking out the struts, adding
the
sleeves and springs and reinstalling? Or is that
vastly
oversimplified? (I already know how to take out the
struts)
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:49:17
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at less than 50% throttle
SJ,
>When was the
last time you changed your plugs and/or wires?
I changed the plugs (NGK)
and wires (Stock) along with the rest of the 60k
mile service less than
6,000 miles ago.
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 11:53:57
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I wasn't impressed when
we installed them on my friends Mazda on the
recommended spring
rates... Also had a bouncy ride (which I know is
attributable to the
strut), but this was tooo bouncy... It was just as
bad as when my
friend with a '94 Talon cut an inch and a half off his
stock springs...
I also rode in a friends Mazda that had Intrax
springs, also with stock
shocks, and there was very little bounce...
Both were good and working
shocks... I think honestly, for us 3/S
people, my personal
recommendation is to either go Intrax/Eibach
"trapped" springs, or go all out
with the Tein setup...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
August 13, 2001 11:32 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ryan,
I have
some tips for the GC kit at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmFor
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my
web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmSo
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I
thought it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and
so started with
400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so).
Those springs were
horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it
could make you car sick.
That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the
ECS is Sport mode the bounce is
fairly eliminated but the struts pass
every little bump in the road up to the
driver. I then installed 500
lb/in springs. Not really much
difference.
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt
J.) and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When
the
car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull
back
a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and push
out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves
up; suspension compresses).
The GC springs are shorter than stock and
just sit there. They cannot get
involved when the suspension is
expanding. They can only "push back" when the
suspension is
compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
expands.
I am considering going to 700 lb/in springs, but
I don't see how they
can make the bounce any better - at least with stock
ECS
struts/shocks in Tour mode. So I am also considering going to the
Tein
suspension. There is really nothing wrong with the stock setup,
except I like
the car about 1" lower than stock.
Does anyone know if the Tein Springs
are "trapped" the way the stock
springs are?
Does anyone with Teins
think the ride is too bouncy?
Am I the only one who thinks the GC springs
have too bouncy a ride?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
To: "Stealth List"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, August 12, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard
to install?
Anyone who has installed the Ground Control system. How
difficult of
an install is it. Just a matter of taking out the struts, adding
the
sleeves and springs and reinstalling? Or is that
vastly
oversimplified? (I already know how to take out the
struts)
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:32:09
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 2nd Gen Headlights in a 1st Gen
Well, got my projector style
(NON-POP-UP!!!!) Headlights for my 1st Gen.
Regardless, I need some
help from someone who has done the conversion.
I have a bracket that seems to
be in the way. Of course, I can't really
tell because my carbon fiber
hood won't be here until Thursday. Does
anyone have pictures of the
process? I think I am going to have to cut
out a small bracket in order
to make it all fit correctly, but would
like some pointers. Of course,
I could just be being stupid and not
seeing how they fit
correctly...
Any help?
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:28:53
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
> Well
Erik? Did you bleed out the entire old brake fluid and
> then
replace with the SynPower Synthetic stuff??
Yes, I went through 1.5
quarts to be sure. Previous fluid was from the
factory.
>
How'd the SynPower peform?? Did you cook 'em pretty good??
;-) Now that's a silly question, now isn't it?
<Insert Geoff's "I told
you so" here> I didn't completely toast
it, but after completely cooling
down and doing some street driving, I
definitely have more pedal travel and
a "spongy" feel. The fluid DID,
however, last the day at the track (91 F
and 60% humidity - very unusual for
WA) consisting of 6 15-20 minute
sessions. A few hot laps into my last
session, I was experimenting with
speed/braking on the long front straight
and held WOT through the 1st
braking cone and then STOOD on the brakes from
115 to get it down to the 35
or so needed to make the corner. No fade,
and the blood pooled in the front
of my face. I made the corner, too
:-) I didn't notice the sponginess or
increased pedal travel until
after driving home 30 miles on the freeway at
more sedate speeds and
brake/underhood temperatures.
- --Erik
P.S. track report
coming, but I have this "work" stuff to do for now,
especially after taking
Friday off :-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:06:19
-0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3s: Rebuild or Replace Alternator?
I am trying to decide
whether to rebuild or replace my alternator on my
'94 VR-4 with 115K
miles. Here are the prices according to Rockville
Mitsu with List and
Sale price. Has anyone done this before, or does
everyone just replace
their alternator? I was forced to buy a rebuilt
one this weekend, but
it was $265 from Advanced Auto Parts. I can get
$65 core return, or buy
the Regulator for $140 and rebuild it myself.
Can I return the alternator
now that it is already used for 500 miles?
MD197470
ALTERNA $
328.45 $ 262.76
MD611743 REGULATOR $
174.38 $ 139.50
Thanks in advance.
-
--
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 11:31:00
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Wow, and I had my heart
set on the GC's. Is it really that bad? I wanted
the exact same thing, about
stock feel, but just lower, but I wanted
lower than an inch, so I was going
to get the GC's and basically max out
how low they would go while still being
in spec for camber. I didn't
want to get Intrax because of what I have heard
about having to modify
the rear suspension to get the camber in spec, but I
may do that now if
the GC's are really that bad. Who else has GC's that has
this problem,
or does not have the problem?
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of cody
Sent: Monday, August
13, 2001 9:54 AM
To: 'Jeff Lucius';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I wasn't impressed
when we installed them on my friends Mazda on the
recommended spring
rates... Also had a bouncy ride (which I know is
attributable to the
strut), but this was tooo bouncy... It was just as
bad as when my
friend with a '94 Talon cut an inch and a half off his
stock springs...
I also rode in a friends Mazda that had Intrax
springs, also with stock
shocks, and there was very little bounce...
Both were good and working
shocks... I think honestly, for us 3/S
people, my personal
recommendation is to either go Intrax/Eibach
"trapped" springs, or go all out
with the Tein setup...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
August 13, 2001 11:32 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ryan,
I have
some tips for the GC kit at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmFor
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my web
page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmSo
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I thought
it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and so started
with
400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so). Those springs
were
horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it could make you
car sick.
That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the ECS is Sport mode
the bounce is
fairly eliminated but the struts pass every little bump in
the road up to the
driver. I then installed 500 lb/in springs. Not
really much
difference.
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt
J.) and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When the
car
goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull back
a
little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and
push out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves up;
suspension
compresses). The GC springs are shorter than stock and just
sit there. They
cannot get involved when the suspension is expanding.
They can only "push
back" when the suspension is compressing. So when
the car goes over big dips,
there is nothing controlling the suspension
except the struts/shock as the
suspension expands.
I am considering going to 700 lb/in springs, but I
don't see how they
can make the bounce any better - at least with stock ECS
struts/shocks
in Tour mode. So I am also considering going to the Tein
suspension.
There is really nothing wrong with the stock setup, except I like
the
car about 1" lower than stock.
Does anyone know if the Tein
Springs are "trapped" the way the stock
springs are?
Does anyone with
Teins think the ride is too bouncy?
Am I the only one who thinks the GC
springs have too bouncy a ride?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
To: "Stealth List"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, August 12, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard
to install?
Anyone who has installed the Ground Control system. How
difficult of an
install is it. Just a matter of taking out the struts, adding
the
sleeves and springs and reinstalling? Or is that vastly
oversimplified?
(I already know how to take out the struts)
Ryan
Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 16:53:09
GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject:
Team3S: octane booster
Hello,
I was wondering what is the best way
to boost octane? Here in California, the
highest octane they currently
sell is 91 (that sucks). I am currently running
a boost controller set
at 1 bar, but see it spike (for a small fraction of a
seccond) to 1.05 ~1.1
all the time, but it usually holds .9 ~ 1, and sometimes
even drops to as
low as .75 close to redline, depending what gear I am in. My
question
is that running this high boost, is octane a problem? I am from
Michigan, where I am going back in about a month, in which we have 94 octane
gas, and from some tests that somebody did, there is no knock using 94
octane
gas, but 91 octane, I don't know. I have been using octane
booster for the
past 2 months, ever since I came here in California, but
from what I have
heard, those 4~7 points of octane boost is really 4~7
tenths of an octane
point, which means that you don't add much octane to the
gas at all. Is the
best way to raise octane just by mixing (half and
half) say 100 octane gas with
91 octane, to get something like 95.5 octane
gas? I am just wondering what
some of the other people are doing where
only like 91 or 92 octane gas exists,
and I am especially interested in
hearing from people who have had a boost
controller in their cars for a
prollonged period of time (say over a year) and
saw no reliability problems
with the engine due to the low octane. Thanks all
in
advance.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:23:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Motul600 Brake Fluid Sale addition..
Ive just been informed that
pricing on cases is up to $90/case from
$80/case.
Orders already
placed at the $80/case level are -not- being asked to pony
up or lose the
sale..they will still be shipped $10 or not.
Thank you..please drive
thru
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:39:04
-0500 (CDT)
From: David Littau <
littau@cs.umn.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3s: Rebuild or Replace Alternator?
As far as I know, most
places will not give a refund on electrical parts,
so you probably cannot
return the alternator.
david
On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, Marc Jonathan
Jacobs wrote:
> I am trying to decide whether to rebuild or replace my
alternator on my
> '94 VR-4 with 115K miles. Here are the prices
according to Rockville
> Mitsu with List and Sale price. Has anyone
done this before, or does
> everyone just replace their alternator?
I was forced to buy a rebuilt
> one this weekend, but it was $265 from
Advanced Auto Parts. I can get
> $65 core return, or buy the
Regulator for $140 and rebuild it myself.
> Can I return the alternator
now that it is already used for 500 miles?
>
MD197470 ALTERNA $
328.45 $ 262.76
>
MD611743 REGULATOR $
174.38 $ 139.50
> Thanks in
advance.
> --
> Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
> xDSL Hardware
Development
> Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:09:19
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Where do i buy a chep fuel pump??
Hi everyone, i think my fuel
pump just died on me, and i called the dealer and they want $500 bucks for that
lil thing, where should i go for better pricing? Please Advice. Thanx in
advace.
Christian
92 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:10:44
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Just correcting myself *Cheap* Fuel pump. Thanx.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:16:13
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2nd Gen Headlights in a 1st Gen
This prompts a couple
questions:
Do the stock 2nd gen headlights illuminate the road better than
stock 1st
gen, or is the benefit purely aesthetic?
Any educated
guesses as to whether or not one could mount the light
assemblies from a 2nd
gen into the pop-up mechanism of a 1st gen? I'd think
not, but haven't
had an opportunity to study a 2nd gen recently.
Dennis
93 Stealth
ES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
To: Starnet
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 13, 2001 1:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: 2nd Gen Headlights in a 1st
Gen
> Well, got my projector style (NON-POP-UP!!!!) Headlights for
my 1st Gen.
>
>
> Regardless, I need some help from someone
who has done the conversion.
> I have a bracket that seems to be in the
way. Of course, I can't really
> tell because my carbon fiber hood
won't be here until Thursday. Does
> anyone have pictures of the
process? I think I am going to have to cut
> out a small bracket in
order to make it all fit correctly, but would
> like some pointers.
Of course, I could just be being stupid and not
> seeing how they fit
correctly...
>
> Any help?
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:03:19
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
As I have predicted all
along, once the kids start coming out with their
fast reflexes and lack of
fear, they will stomp us old farts. It happened
at Heartland Park: Mike
Willis and Flash were the fastest, with 2:14 laps,
and the two old farts --
Chuck Willis and me (Rich the Old Poop) brought up
the rear with 2:15s. Jim
Floyd broke his car early, so he gets a bye this
time.
Let's hope this
encourages all you kids to bring your cars out to play.
(Cathy, my bee-utiful
daughter, are you listening?)
LESSONS LEARNED
When you have five
more-or-less identical cars on track at the same event,
you learn lots. For
example:
1. Use Motul brake fluid.
This was discussed in an earlier
post.
2. Yoko 032R tires are just as good as Kuhmos.
3. Big
Reds are better than Stillen/Brembo upgrades
Although Mike Willis was
faster than me by a second a lap, I could
consistently outbrake him and his
dad, Chuck Willis, into the corners. Mike
and I did lead/follow for several
laps, and when he led, it was always the
same: Because he has a boost
controller, he could pull away from me out of
corners, gaining maybe 15-50
yards on each straightaway. I made it up under
braking, getting it all back
so that I entered each turn on his butt. Ergo,
the Big Reds are better
brakes.
(And I don't even have the best Big Red setup! Flash has
brakes that will
put you through the windshield, Jack! I have never been in a
car that
stopped like Flash's car: It's like hitting a brick wall. Maybe
it's
because he runs race pads on the rears and I don't, but his car flat
STOPS!!)
As for Yokos v Kuhmos, I could follow Mike through the turns at
exactly the
same speed, neither gaining nor losing time. That means that his
Yokos --
which some of us (ahem) have called "school tires" -- stick
just as good
as Kuhmos, which are supposed to be a superior tire. (Mike and I
both have
GC suspensions with 550 front springs).
I am sick and tired
of cording Kuhmos left and right, so I am ordering
another set of Yoko 032R
tires to replace the three Kuhmos I corded this
weekend (I can see the cords
just below the surface on the fourth tire, so
it's ready to go, too). (BTW,
the Kuhmos are certainly good tires, but they
have no wear indicators, so ya
never know how much tire is left.)
SMOOTH IS FAST
Chuck Willis gives
the best demonstration of how smooth is fast. He was
slower than us by a
second or so a lap, but when you ride with him you see
a master at work: He
doesn't punish the car. He shifts at 5000, lifts early
for braking, stabs the
brakes sanely, keeps it under 100 mph on the
straights, and takes no risks.
Yet he turns into corners at amazingly high
speeds, keeps the car nicely
balanced while it's skeetering at the limit,
shaves off a second here and a
second there, and his seemingly slower pace
is only a second or so off the
lap times of those of us who are divebombing
the course, pulling 7000 rpm
shift points, and slamming on the brakes at
120+. If Chuck turned up the
wick, he'd smoke all of us.
If you ever get a chance to run with us,
take a few laps with Chuck.
BREAKING BRAKES
Heartland Park is a
brake-eater, so when you come to play, bring spare pads.
I ate up a set
of rear pads. They were stock pads (lifetime warranty!
Wonder what they will
say when I bring them back with only four days use on
them?)
Flash went
through a set of Pagid Orange front pads. They had been through
a couple of
events, so it was just a matter of time.
Mike cracked BOTH of his Stillen
drilled rotors. They cracked right through
the drilled part. The cracked
rotors contributed to his eating a set of
front pads, too. Fortunately, it
all happened late Sunday afternoon, so he
didn't miss much track time.
We
had to bleed out my Ford fluid (had to do it twice before we got it all
out)
and replace it with Motul before I could make it through an entire
session.
Needless to say, it looked like the Mitsubishi Brake Shop for most of
the
weekend.
We still don't know what's wrong with Jim's car. He was
in his second
session when something went CLANG in the front end, the
steering wheel
turned halfway around, and he limped back to the paddock. He
stayed over to
check with a front end shop on Monday morning, so I guess
we'll hear about
it in a few days. Jim, Mike and Flash spent a lot of time
under the car,
poking and prodding, but they didn't find anything seriously
wrong. Chuck
let Jim drive his car for the rest of the sessions (what a
guy!!).
As noted, Chuck does not run his car hard. Chuck did not have a
single
problem with brakes, tires, overheating, or anything else this
entire
weekend, and both he and Jim drove the car. There must be a lesson
there
somewhere.
RUNNING WITH THE BIG BOYS
Three of us (Chuck,
Mike and I) got put into Group 4, with the instructors.
We had about 20
cars in our group, and there were 11 Group 1 cars, so at
least 11 of those
cars were instructors. Other cars in group 4 included
race-prepped
cars, such as a Speedvision world challenge (or whatever that
series is)
Saleen Mustang, 911s with tall wings, and lots of cars with
stickers and
lettering. Some of them would come up on us like a rocket ship
on the
straights (like the Saleen), while others would catch us in the
twisty bits
(like race prepped 914s). The 914s and such couldn't pass us on
the straights
unless we let them, because they had no horsepower to speak
of, but we all
let them by. They caught up to us because they didn't have
to slow down for
corners (at least it seemed that way. Dang German go karts!).
Later, they
merged Groups 4 and 5, so we got to run with even more
race-prepped cars,
such as Vipers and stuff.
These were all some really serious folks, with
years of experience, very
expensive cars, and lots of trailer queens and cars
with no license plates.
I heard a little derision in the rest room about the
Mitsubishis that were
"getting in the way." Hmm...we'll have to do something
about that. We need
some serious cars of our own out there.
Once we
solved my brake fluid problem, I was staying with the big boys, and
getting
passed just by the race-prepped cars, so I was fairly happy with
the weekend.
I've run 2:12 at HP before, but not in such intense heat.
The absolute
best part, though, was having five cars there, with assorted
friends, family,
tent, bbq, folding chairs, coolers, and our own instructor
(Chuck). I'm
ready to do it again. How about October 20-21 for the Audi
Quattro event at
Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansa? Come join us. Let's have
TEN cars this
time!
Rich/old poop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:15:03
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Hesitation at less than 50% throttle
Did you check the
TPS?
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Crose"
<
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 13, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation at less than 50%
throttle
> When I am accelerating up to speed through second and
third gears there is
a
> hesitation between 2,500-3,000 RPMs. The
hesitation sometimes occurs
twice
> in this RPM range. It only
occurs with less than 50% throttle and it
feels
> like I let up on the
gas but then when it passes ~3,000 RPMs it returns to
> pulling
smoothly.
>
> At first I thought the clutch might be slipping, but
it doesn't occur at
> WOT. Any ideas?
>
> Michael D.
Crose
> 1992 VR-4
> Test pipe, FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:30:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
> I ate
up a set of rear pads. They were stock pads (lifetime warranty!
> Wonder
what they will say when I bring them back with only four days use on
>
them?)
- ---
You should upgrade..your bias is messed up causing the fronts
to do more
work than they should, because the rears arent holding thier own
here.
Free delivery! *you know what I mean*
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:04:52
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Spacer Help
Anyone care to comment on the foolhardiness of
using the stock stud length
with 3/16 thk. spacers? Otherwise, I'm not
perfectly clear on whether or
not it's necessary to remove the entire
steering nuckle to get the old studs
out and the longer studs in. I
very much want to avoid popping the lower
control arm and steering arm ball
joints if I can help it. Is there a
consensus on the best way to tackle
this little dilemma? Thanks in
advance.
Regards,
Davet/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:57:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
Yes we all
had a most fantastic time. Let us not forget that we came from
Boulder,
CO; Houston, TX; Cedar Rapids, IA; Pittsburgh, PA and wherever Mike
is
from. Combine those mileages and ... well ... it is mind-boggling.
I
drove 955 miles just to GET to the track or just under 2,200
miles
round-trip. <big grin>
We must have passed two dozen other
3/S cars getting here so if anybody
lives between PA and KS and was driving
East on I-70 Friday or West on I-70
Monday then you missed me. I met a
kid in a gas station near Topeka who
owns a 1994 Green VR-4. We all
went to dinner on Sunday at the Outback and
happened to see another green
VR-4 in the lot (Kansas plate "SAG") who was
not part of our group.
Where do they all come from. There was a Stealth ES
for sale at the
track even. Belonged to a corner worker.
Incidentally, we were
about to call this the First Ever VR-4 Kansas track
day since four second gen
and one first gen VR-4 were in attendance. Stay
tuned for pictures when
they get developed.
I know the CA guys have their days at Thunderhill and
Laguna Seca and a few
at Road America (WI), and Steve Lasher at Road Atlanta
(GA), so let's get
some more out there to the great tracks (Mid-Ohio, Watkins
Glen, Summit
Point, VIR, Lime Rock, etc.). Not only was it fun to
partake in a driving
event (it is not considered racing really) it helped to
diagnose problems
such as a loose front anti-sway bar, if a Mustang wheel
fits over the Big
Reds, where to place jackstands under a car, etc.
Lots of good technical
knowledge this past weekend.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:02:38
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Mustang wheels
> it helped to diagnose
problems
>such as a loose front anti-sway bar, if a Mustang wheel fits
over the Big
>Reds,
No they don't. We tried a 2001 Cobra SVT
wheel, and although the wheel
pattern matches, the spokes do not clear the
calipers (by a long shot!).
The Cobra guy said maybe a 1998 wheel would fit,
because it has a big
offset, but there wasn't a 98 to be found. Other Mustang
wheels are four
bolts, so they don't fit either. If somebody has a buddy with
a 98 SVT
Mustang, please check it out. Those wheels are only $150
each.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:19:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: To EVERYONE that lives on/near I80..
...between San Francisco and
Chicago..
FREE DELIVERY of porterfield/motul pads/rotors!
You
-have- to get your order in by noon PST Wednesday, you -have- to pay
via
paypal, and you have to live on I80, or very near it.
I'll be glad to
make a 5 minute stop on my road trip to Toronto early next
week..
The
savings: $10 cheaper because you dont have to pay a drop-ship fee
from
porterfield, and additional savings because you only have to pay
shipping to
my house in San Jose, CA...instead of all the way to you.
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:20:16
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Thanks Jeff. Very
informative web page. I think you've talked me out of the
GC
system.
I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in
both
directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also work
in
tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top and
bottom
seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
Plus,
I think this would be undesirable, as you want the suspension to press
down
as far as possible and as fast as possible. Otherwise, the wheels would
tend
to "float" over rough terrain rather than keep contact with the
ground.
I didn't think it was possible to do as much to these engines as
you've
done. Nice job!
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
August 13, 2001 9:32 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ryan,
I have
some tips for the GC kit at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmFor
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my
web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmSo
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I
thought it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and
so started with
400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so).
Those springs were
horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it
could make you car sick.
That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the
ECS is Sport mode the bounce is
fairly eliminated but the struts pass
every little bump in the road up to the
driver. I then installed 500
lb/in springs. Not really much
difference.
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt
J.) and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When
the
car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull
back
a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and push
out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves
up; suspension compresses).
The GC springs are shorter than stock and
just sit there. They cannot get
involved when the suspension is
expanding. They can only "push back" when the
suspension is
compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
expands.
I am considering going to 700 lb/in springs, but I
don't see how they
can make the bounce any better - at least with stock
ECS
struts/shocks in Tour mode. So I am also considering going to the
Tein
suspension. There is really nothing wrong with the stock setup,
except I like
the car about 1" lower than stock.
Does anyone know if the Tein Springs
are "trapped" the way the stock
springs are?
Does anyone with Teins
think the ride is too bouncy?
Am I the only one who thinks the GC springs
have too bouncy a ride?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:30:40
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I think the intent of
the "captured" spring was that say you get your
car off the ground, well, the
way the GC's are made, there will be
unsprung travel, meaning that if the car
extends over how much the GC's
can extend, then there will be no spring
factor whatsoever, leaving the
strut left to "crash down" on the GC's actual
spring once the car starts
coming back down... (Am I confusing
anyone?) With stock springs,
Eibach, or Intrax springs, this can never
happen as the strut fully
extends while still under tension from the spring,
and also having an
amount of pre-load on the spring also...
Not sure
how this would affect anything...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Ryan Peterson
Sent: Monday,
August 13, 2001 11:20 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Thanks Jeff. Very
informative web page. I think you've talked me out of
the
GC
system.
I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in
both
directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also
work
in
tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top
and
bottom
seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against
them.
Plus,
I think this would be undesirable, as you want the suspension
to press
down
as far as possible and as fast as possible. Otherwise, the
wheels would
tend
to "float" over rough terrain rather than keep contact
with the ground.
I didn't think it was possible to do as much to these
engines as you've
done. Nice job!
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
August 13, 2001 9:32 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ryan,
I have
some tips for the GC kit at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmFor
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my
web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmSo
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I
thought it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and
so started with
400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so).
Those springs were
horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it
could make you car sick.
That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the
ECS is Sport mode the bounce is
fairly eliminated but the struts pass
every little bump in the road up to the
driver. I then installed 500
lb/in springs. Not really much
difference.
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt
J.) and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When
the
car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull
back
a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and push
out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves
up; suspension compresses).
The GC springs are shorter than stock and
just sit there. They cannot get
involved when the suspension is
expanding. They can only "push back" when the
suspension is
compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
expands.
I am considering going to 700 lb/in springs, but I
don't see how they
can make the bounce any better - at least with stock
ECS
struts/shocks in Tour mode. So I am also considering going to the
Tein
suspension. There is really nothing wrong with the stock setup,
except I like
the car about 1" lower than stock.
Does anyone know if the Tein Springs
are "trapped" the way the stock
springs are?
Does anyone with Teins
think the ride is too bouncy?
Am I the only one who thinks the GC springs
have too bouncy a ride?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:49:39
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Ok, my bad.
Ryan
Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 9:31 PM
To:
ryanp@crcwnet.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I think the intent
of the "captured" spring was that say you get your
car off the ground, well,
the way the GC's are made, there will be
unsprung travel, meaning that if the
car extends over how much the GC's
can extend, then there will be no spring
factor whatsoever, leaving the
strut left to "crash down" on the GC's actual
spring once the car starts
coming back down... (Am I confusing
anyone?) With stock springs,
Eibach, or Intrax springs, this can never
happen as the strut fully
extends while still under tension from the spring,
and also having an
amount of pre-load on the spring also...
Not sure
how this would affect anything...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:42:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Mustang wheels
Rich -- How heavy were those
wheels? As heavy? Lighter? I would not want
to recommend a
wheel that is aluminum instead of beefy steel or something.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:03 AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: RE: Mustang wheels
> it helped to diagnose
problems
>such as a loose front anti-sway bar, if a Mustang wheel fits
over the Big
>Reds,
No they don't. We tried a 2001 Cobra SVT wheel,
and although the wheel
pattern matches, the spokes do not clear the calipers
(by a long shot!).
The Cobra guy said maybe a 1998 wheel would fit, because
it has a big
offset, but there wasn't a 98 to be found. Other Mustang wheels
are four
bolts, so they don't fit either. If somebody has a buddy with a 98
SVT
Mustang, please check it out. Those wheels are only $150
each.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:08:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Notes on Big Reds
Dave,
At Heartland Park I
saw Brad Bedell's first step at a two-piece rotor
that utilized the entire
pad surface area. I like that. I should have put
those rotors on
my car now that I think about it. Anyway, a solution is out
there but
it needs more testing before becoming a hit or a bomb.
On your
weights you failed to report one thing: sprung weight vs.
unsprung
weight. Who cars how much the Big Red caliper weighs (8#) since it
does
not go round and round. The rotor DOES go round and round so that
is
more weight to stop. Just FYI.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with
Big Reds and Porterfield rotors
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of bdtrent
Sent: Friday, August
10, 2001 11:18 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Notes on Big
Reds
For those interested, the big reds weigh approx. 1lb. more than
the stock
front calipers. The 2nd gen rotors weigh 18lbs. ea. vs.
15lbs. for the
first gen. rotors. (It is worth noting how much more
affective the cooling
vanes appear to be on the 2nd gen rotors). Factor
in the pads and brackets
and its safe to say the big red conversion adds at
least 5lbs. per wheel.
Mostly trivial given the indicated benefits. I
was more concerned with the
fact that the 2nd gen. rotors appear to leave
5-10% of the big red pad
completely unused. If our rotors were about a
1/4" wider, we would be
getting more of the full benefit of the
Brembos. Just some FYI as I embark
on the big red conversion
journey.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:12:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
Shane,
No, it makes sense now.
Sealing off the air box makes a different pressure
than under the hood.
Thanks for clarifying. I'll stand by ready to see the
results.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Shane Thoms
Sent: Sunday,
August 12, 2001 11:21 PM
No no, you guys are missing it. The front
"grabber" is sealed to a intake
or stuffing box.
The rear would be
designed to evacuate the under hood air. AS far as
pressure...
dunno. Just
thought a double ended scoop would be
cool.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:15:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: H & R Wheel Spacers
??? My Big Reds fit under factory
1995 18" wheels and 1999 17" wheels with
stock offsets. Adding offset
would only help any clearance problems since
it would space the wheel away
from the rotors. What else are we missing? I
have all stock
studs, hub, knuckle, etc.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
-
-----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001
4:38 PM
Does anyone know if it's nessesary to replace the factory wheel
studs when
using the H & R 5mm offset wheel spacer? The big reds
won't clear the
aftermarket 18" wheels I'm
using.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:07:11
-0400
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Hi
Ryan,
You are correct in your statement. The springs
are not tied to the
spring perches., so they cannot assist in slowing
rarification (sp?) of the
strut. However, the springs are designed
such that their max height matches
the maximum extension that the struts may
have. That is, there should be no
noticible separation between the
strut and the spring perches when the strut
is fully extended. By
doing this, the action of the spring is effectively
"tied" to the action of
the strut on compression.
Regards,
Dennis
>From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
>To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
>Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001
21:20:16 -0700
>
>Thanks Jeff. Very informative web page. I
think you've talked me out of
>the
>GC system.
>
>I
disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in
both
>directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also
work in
>tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top
and bottom
>seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press
against them. Plus,
>I think this would be undesirable, as you want the
suspension to press down
>as far as possible and as fast as possible.
Otherwise, the wheels would
>tend
>to "float" over rough terrain
rather than keep contact with the ground.
>
>I didn't think it was
possible to do as much to these engines as you've
>done. Nice
job!
>
>Ryan
Peterson
>www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Jeff Lucius
>Sent:
Monday, August 13, 2001 9:32 AM
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to
install?
>
>
>Ryan,
>I have some tips for the GC kit at
my web page
below.
>http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htm
>
>For
those that want some info on R&Ring the struts/shocks look at my
>web
page
below.
>http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htm
>
>So
far, I do not care for the GC adjustable-height spring kit. I
>thought it
would be good to stay with close to stock spring rates and
>so started
with 400 lb/in springs in front (stock is like 258 or so).
>Those springs
were horrible. The car bounced down the road so bad it
>could make you car
sick. That was in Tour mode with the ECS. With the
>ECS is Sport mode the
bounce is fairly eliminated but the struts pass
>every little bump in the
road up to the driver. I then installed 500
>lb/in springs. Not really
much difference.
>
>Reading through some old posts on this subject
(thanks Matt J.) and
>thinking about the problem, here's what I think the
problem is. The
>stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower
"seats". When the
>car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is
they pull
>back a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down;
suspension
>expands) and push out a little when the car goes down (wheel
moves
>up; suspension compresses). The GC springs are shorter than stock
and
>just sit there. They cannot get involved when the suspension
is
>expanding. They can only "push back" when the suspension
is
>compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
>controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
>expands.
>
>I am considering going to 700 lb/in
springs, but I don't see how they
>can make the bounce any better - at
least with stock ECS
>struts/shocks in Tour mode. So I am also considering
going to the
>Tein suspension. There is really nothing wrong with the
stock setup,
>except I like the car about 1" lower than
stock.
>
>Does anyone know if the Tein Springs are "trapped" the way
the stock
>springs are?
>
>Does anyone with Teins think the
ride is too bouncy?
>
>Am I the only one who thinks the GC springs
have too bouncy a ride?
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:20:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I assume this "short GC
spring not helping the suspension like stock" was
what the "helper springs"
took care of ... like in the Tein setup. This
aligns the springs when
the car is up on jackstands and when there is no
weight on the wheel.
Can't say but that is why I keep looking forward to
the Teins (like two or
three years away) instead of the GC stuff. You get
what you pay for
remember.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with stock suspension
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001
12:32 PM
Reading through some old posts on this subject (thanks Matt J.)
and
thinking about the problem, here's what I think the problem is.
The
stock springs are "trapped" in the upper and lower "seats". When
the
car goes up or down, the springs are involved - that is they pull
back
a little when the car goes up (wheel goes down; suspension
expands) and push
out a little when the car goes down (wheel moves
up; suspension compresses).
The GC springs are shorter than stock and
just sit there. They cannot get
involved when the suspension is
expanding. They can only "push back" when the
suspension is
compressing. So when the car goes over big dips, there is
nothing
controlling the suspension except the struts/shock as the
suspension
expands.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#576
***************************************