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Remove Airbox (or Air Filter)
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You'll need to remove your airbox or air filter (if you have a K&N)
to access the fuel pump relay.
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Access OEM Fuel Pump Relay
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Remove your fuel pump relay from under the fusebox bracket.
It's directly under the fusebox and should have plenty of slack in the
wiring to pull it out as shown in the picture. The rubber cover with the
bracket attached just slides off of the relay.
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Examine Harness-side of Relay
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Look at the side of the relay with the wires coming out of it.
Note which wires come out of which holes in the harness.
You might want to orient the harness how it is shown in
the circuit diagrams so it's easier to figure out which
wire goes where. In this orientation, Pin #1 is in the upper
left (black wire with red stripe), and pin #5 is in the lower
right (black wire with light blue stripe).
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Remove Electrical Tape and Wiring Loom
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Carefully remove (you may need to cut) the electrical tape
from the wires that attach to the relay. Pull back the
wiring loom a little so you can access the wire loop
between pins 3 and 5 on the harness. The wire will be
black with a light blue stripe (B-L, by Mitsu convention).
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Cut Wire Loop
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Cut the wire loop that connects pins 3 and 5. Again, this
should be a black wire with a light blue stripe.
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Attach Crimp Connectors
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You now need to prepare the freshly-cut ends of the [former] wire
loop for connection to the new parts of the circuit.
To make thing easier, I suggest you use crimp-style connectors
on the ends of your wires as this makes it a little easier
to install things and it definitely makes removing things easier.
I typically use insulated quick-disconnect connectors because they
provide a secure connection and disconnect fairly easily. Also,
if you use one male and one female connector for the wires here,
you can return the circuit to stock very easily.
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Prepare Relay For Connection
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Again, I suggest you use insulated quick-disconnect crimp-on connectors
on the ends of your wires to make things easier. You'll also want to
tie up the center wire of the relay harness (pin 87a) so it's out of the way.
Further, you can remove it from the harness completely if you like
(as shown in the next picture). To remove it, insert a pick or small probe
into the side of the harness that the relay plugs into and push back
the little tab on the connector - then it just slides out.
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Examine Relay Pins and Wire Colors
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Take a good look at the colors of the wires on your wiring
harness and which wire goes to which relay pin. The relay pins
should be labeled on the bottom of the relay (as shown in picture),
but your wires may be different colors than the ones in the pictures.
That bears repeating: Look closely at the colors of the wires in
your particular harness as they may not be the same colors
as the harness in this picture.
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Closeup of Wires In My Harness
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Tape Up Relay and Harness
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Wrap up the relay and harness connections with electrical tape
to prevent water or contaminants from getting into the
relay connections.
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Connect Relay Wires
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Following the circuit diagram, connect the relay
as required. For the relay coil terminal that is
to be grounded, a good place for this is the bolt for
the airbox (or air filter bracket) as shown in the picture.
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Alternate View of Connections
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You can see both relay coil connections (pins 85 and 86) and the
fuel pump power connection (pin 87) here. Pin 30 of the relay
(battery power) is not yet connected.
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New Relay Connected To OEM Relay
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Again, you can see the relay connections... the red wire in the picture
is connected to pin 30 of the relay, and it must eventually be
connected to the battery through a fuse.
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Wrap Up the Wires
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Using some wiring loom and/or electrical tape, protect
the wires that go to the new relay.
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Connect Battery Wire
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Connect a large wire (at least 14-ga) to the wire that
goes to pin 30 of the new relay. This picture also shows
the 4 connections to the new relay. The thin black wire is
my ground wire for the relay coil. The thick red wire is my
wire that goes to the battery. The other 2 wires go to the
OEM relay as shown in the picture.
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More Wiring Loom and Tape
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Again, you want to protect the wires from abrasion, heat, and
moisture by wrapping them in wiring loom and/or electrical
tape.
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Secure the New Relay
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I chose to mount the new relay to the side of
the fusebox near the DS IC hose. I had to
slightly enlarge the hole in the relay bracket
with a 1/4" drill bit.
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Mount Fuse Holder
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Find a place to mount your fuse holder - here's one
example.
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Connect Fuse Holder and Install Fuse
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Install the fuse and complete the connection. One end of the
fuse holder gets connected to the pin 30 relay wire and the other end of
the fuse holder gets connected to the battery's positive terminal.
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Disconnect Negative Terminal Of Battery
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Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery so you
can safely disconnect the positive terminal.
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Connect Wire to Positive Terminal
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Disconnect the positive terminal of your battery so you
can connect the other end of the wire coming out of your
fuse older to the battery. Use a ring terminal or
other appropriate connector for this end of the wire.
Reconnect the positive terminal to the battery.
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Reconnect Negative Terminal Of Battery
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Reinstall Air Filter and Start Car
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Put the air filter or airbox back on and start the car. Make sure it
runs. If you're going to do the optional step below, you can continue
after you make sure you have everything right so far. If you're not
going to do the optional steps below, then you're done - go out and drive!
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Access Wiring Harness for Fuel Pump Resistor
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It's located on the bracket for your fusebox and has only 2 wires.
The resistor is the shiny silver thing with the heat sink in
the lower left of the picture. Disconnect the chassis-side
of the connector.
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Access Fuel Pump Resistor Wires
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The large harness is the ABS pump harness, which is under your
fuse box. Disconnect the ABS harness and pull back the wires as shown
in the picture. You may have to disconnect some wire ties to
get this much slack in the wires. Towel in place for '
clarity in the pictures.
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Remove Electrical Tape
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Pull back the electrical tape and plastic wire protector
to expose the wires for the fuel pump resistor.
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Cut Resistor Wire and Create Wire Splice
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Cut the (B)lack wire with the (L)ight blue stripe and put
quick-disconnect terminals on it. Using a male/female pair
will allow you to quickly return the wiring to stock. Create
a wire "T" from some 14ga or larger wire as shown in the picture.
The trunk of this "T" should have the appropriate connector such
that the end of the new wire (red in picture) can be connected
to it.
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Connect New Wire
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As shown in the picture, connect the new (red in picture) wire
to the existing fuel pump resistor wire.
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Button Everything Back Up
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Protect the new wire and its connection with electrical
tape and/or wiring loom. Reconnect the wiring harnesses
for the fuel pump resistor and the ABS pump.
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Reinstall Air Filter or Airbox
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You're done in the engine bay, so reinstall the air filter.
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Route New Wire to the Trunk
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The new wire you connected in the engine bay needs to
make its way to the trunk. There are many ways to do
this, so this is at your personal discretion. There is
a stock gromet/hole near the brake booster on the driver's
side and there's space to shove a wire through the
existing wiring harness hole down behind the battery. You
can also drill a new hole through the firewall.
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Remove Spare Tire and RHS Cargo Tray
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The cargo tray on the passenger's side is held in by 3 screws -
remove them and the tray, along with the spare tire, to access
the fuel pump access pannel..
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Remove and Modify Fuel Pump Access Panel
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The fuel pump access panel is held on by 4 screws. Remove the
panel and bend the area where you intend to run the new wire
to the pump so that there is clearance for the wire. I found
that placing a large-diameter bolt wrapped in a towel under
the panel and then beating on the panel with a rubber mallet
worked ok. See picture for details.
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Connect New Wire to Fuel Pump
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I'd already made a mess of the fuel pump wiring harness
when I was previously experimenting, so please pardon the mess.
You'll want to splice into the (B)lack wire with the (L)ight blue
stripe located at pin #3 of the fuel pump harness. This is
where the new wire should be attached.
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Reinstall Fuel Pump Access Panel
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Put the panel back on, making sure that it doesn't pinch the
new wire. I put wiring loom around the new wire to make sure
it wouldn't get pinched by anything.
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Replace Spare Tire and RHS Cargo Tray
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