Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Monday, March 1 2004     Volume 02 : Number 383


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 01:06:59 -0500
From: "Spawn" <>
Subject: Team3S: "Audio for sale"

>                                    ** Rockford Fosgate Power
> 1000a2 **
>  This amp retailed for $1,389.  I bought it for $1,200.  I'm selling it
> $700.  Here's the Specs:
>  ·        All measurements @ 14 volts unless otherwise specified
>  ·        Frequency Response (4-ohm IHF Load, 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 1 kHz
> +0 dB, –.23 dB
>  ·        Phase Response (4-ohm IHF Load, 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 1 kHz Ref.) —
> Phase Warp Out: +19 degrees, –10.25 degrees
>  ·        Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Below Rated Output, “A” weighted): 119 dB
> ·       Distortion at Rated Output (@ 1 kHz): 0.041% @ 275 watts x 2
>  ·       Output Power (resistive) minimum output 20 Hz to 20 kHz @ 1%
> all channels driven into 4 ohms: 383.9 watts x 2 @ 14 V; 317.4 watts x 2 @
>  12.8 V; 215.7 watts x 2 @ 10.5 V
>  ·       Output Power (resistive) minimum output 20 Hz to 20 kHz @ 1%
> all channels driven into 2 ohms: 487.1 watts x 2 @ 14 V; 466 watts x 2 @
>  12.8 V; 340 watts x 2 @ 10.5V
>  ·       Output Power (4-ohm IHF Reactive Load @ 1% THD+N @ 60 Hz
> 973.6 watts x 1
>  ·       Crosstalk @ rated output, 20 Hz to 20 kHz: –72.3 dB
>  ·       Damping Factor @ 100 Hz: 1737
>  ·       Voltage for Rated Output: 300mV to 6.1V
>  ·       Idle Current Draw: 1.4 amps
>  ·       Current Draw @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 79 Amps @ 389 watts
>  ·       Efficiency @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 35%
>  ·       Power-Up Noise: 14 dB SPL
> ·       Power-Down Noise: 14.8 dB SPL
>  The Power 1100a2 is a two-channel power amp featuring gold plated
> connections, switchable high- or low-pass crossovers with variable cutoff
>  frequency, a 275-watt x 2 power rating into 4 ohms, and the classic
> Rockford cheese-grater from hell heatsink.
>                                                         * Performance *
>  Pansy, wimp, or wuss are not adjectives that you’re likely to come across
> in descriptions of the 1100a2. However, powerhouse or current hog fit the
> bill
>  quite well. Driving a 4-ohm reactive load, this beast produced nearly a
> kilowatt on our test bench and nearly 1400 watts driving a 4-ohm resistive
>  load with a 14.6 V supply. (Rockford Fosgate recommends the use of large
> power capacitors to bolster the amplifier if you experience any problems
>  with your stock electrical system.) This isn’t to say that you’ll be
> disappointed with its real-world performance, but we had to parallel two
>  power supplies just to feed this thing. Our normal test DC supply has a
> current limit of about 120 amps, and it fell short by a considerable
>  Noise floor, crosstalk, and turn on/off numbers are really low.
>                                                     * Connections &
> Adjustments*
>  Connections to the 1100a2 include RCA inputs and outputs, a spade-type
> remote turn on connector, and captive-style receptacles for speaker and
>  power connections. Adjustments include input sensitivity for each
> crossover mode select, crossover cutoff frequency, bass boost, and Phase
>  Warp adjustment. The Phase Warp appears to be an all-pass delay. This
> prove useful in a multi-speaker SPL setup. It would allow for close phase
>  matching of multiple woofers. This, in theory, could allow for a higher
> at the frequency for which they were adjusted. The limitation of this
> circuit is that it would only work at one frequency, and it would have to
> fairly low — perhaps below 500 Hz in a car.
>                                           ** Clarion ProAudio Am/Fm/CD
> Receiver DRX9375R**
>  I paid $640 for this.  I'm selling it for $300.  This is one sweet tuner.
> It has lots of cool options, I'll list a few.  This unit has RCA hookups
> a TV & Dvd player.  You can hook a changer up to this.  Has a visual EQ.
> a bunch of different screen savers to play with and look at. Not to
> a detachable face for extra security.  And for us lazy people...a remote
> control.  This amp is a ProAudio tuner THEREFORE has NO INTERNAL POWER
> SOURCE.  If you're not familiar with audio ESPECIALLY ProAudio equipment
> then I'll break this down for you.  Basically there's no internal
> in this unit so you HAVE to have a amp to make this unit work.  If you try
> and run it without one...they'll be NO SOUND.  I wasn't aware if this when
> bought it and I didn't have any amps at the I learned VERY
> quickly.
>                                           **   (2) 1st Gen SoloBaric
> SL710 Subwoofers  **
>  I paid $335 each for these.  But I'm selling these for way less.  $220
> or both for $400.  These are Dual 4 OHM Voicecoil Subs.  These were the
> turning stone design for subs.  These are the high end square shaped
> subwoofers.  They take up less cubic space(When making a box) than a round
> sub would and hit WAY harder than any other 10" subwoofer.  These subs are
> rated between 500-600 Watts each.  So you can push these babies hard.  And
> the special design for these subs make them able to flex alot more than
> other normal round subwoofer. Also I have the awesome looking grills for
> these subs too.  I'm selling these for $15 each or if you buy both
> subwoofers and want both grills I'll give it all to you for $420.
>  With this sound system I've won:
>  1st Place Sound System @ Ocean City Maryland 2002 (ECG2002)
>  Best of Show @ Ocean City Maryland 2002 (ECG2002)
>  1st Place Sound & Entertainment @ Rochester NY (NEG II) 2002
>  Best install @ Signature Audio's Soundoff (Batavia NY) 2002
>  1st Place Sound System @ Rochester NY (NEG III) 2003
>  Best of Show @ Rochester NY (NEG III) 2003
>  Also at Custom Radio's Soundoff (Buffalo NY) I hit 148.6 Decibels with
> setup.  Now the box I have these subs in is designed more for show so it's
> about 3/4 the size it's supposed to be.  If this box was made for the
> specs for these speakers then I would have hit more.  This is just a vague
> idea of what this stuff can do.
> I have pictures if anyone's interested in any of this stuff.  Email
> inquiries to:

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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 7:59:42 +0000
From: <>
Subject: Team3S: FOR SALE

1994 Dodge Stealth R/T
A list of mods are on my page at

Asking 7,000 o.b.o
Really fast car with alot of potential to be faster
120k miles on it.. did 60k tune up at 105k miles (belts,water pump,timing belt, new alternator, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and a new stage 2 clutch with 500miles on it) also have a compustar alarm with remote start and keyless entry.
I live in the Cincinnati area, but would be willing to meet half way or somehthing

***  Info:  ***


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 18:46:59 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <>
Subject: Team3S: Qs on water injection - Answers from ERL

Long time ago that this thread was active. I now have contact to ERL again
who wll answer soem Q's. Especially as Dan had a misunderstanding of the
flow rates. Here's the first answer from Richard at ERL :

- ----------------------------------------------


There were a few in-accuracy on the post regarding pressure (re: Dan
Labonte's post) . The standard aquamist pump can maintain 90psi at
300cc/min. It was originally designed for the WRC engines at 300BHP. The
flow rate of the aquamist pump can be doubled for $20 quick easily.

Snow performance's water pump is made by Shurflo? -I think. We also supply
Shurflo pumps for high flow applications, should anyone be requesting a high
flow system from us. There are many water injection suppliers who also use
the same pump, Carroll Supercharging Inc, plus a handful of DIY based
system. They are all priced between 250-500dollars.

Anyone can buy a Shurflo pump from, price ranging
between $69.99-$110 dollars. Add a few connectors, a hobb switch and a water
jet from any oil heater suppliers - you end up with a water injection system
perform far better than the aquamist system - IN FLOW RATE TERMS.  The best
place for getting information on a low budget system is by visiting

There is no point for us to supply a simple Shurflo based system where most
people can almost make a DIY  WI system under 120 dollars.  The important
question one should really ask is:  Is a high flow WI system a better

If that is the case, then one should just couple up a mechanical pump to the
engine and you can almost get unlimited amount of water delivery for less
than 20 dollars - remember you can buy a simple water delivery attachment
that is driven by an electric drill?  Attach it to you crank belt, the
delivery will be linear to your engine speed, no need to have any electronic
control at all.  Load related delivery can be controlled directly by engine
vacuum via a raising rate pressure regulator. It will cost you another 25

The point I am trying to make here is, since we made considerable effort and
attempt to manufacture a well engineered system for the more demanding users
over the last ten years and have brought some creditability back to the
water injection concept.  Just as the market has begun to turn slowly
in-favour of water injection as opposed to the nick name of " band-aid to
poor tuning".  Everyone seemed to be jumping on the band wagon.  We have no
objections on that what so ever. I see it as a positive trend.

The most unfair part, in my opinion is,  people on the chat rooms has often
overlooked  the very essence that makes a water injection work to it full
potential.  Every aspect of the delivery machine must be considered to be
equally important - not just delivery rate.  Diagnostics capabilities and
flow monitoring is vital to a healthy engine. No one can make a perfect
system that never breaks down - but if the system has an early faulty
detection system incorporated - the engine will live much longer.  At
present, some people would only be interested on how much more their system
can flow compared to the aquamist system  and how much cheaper it is.  Would
you risk your engine on a system that cannot provide an add-on attachment to
save your engine in the event of a WI break down?

The Aquamist system is no way near perfect, not even close.  We are slowly
and steadily making our system better and more durable and also at the same
time investing some of the incomes from the sales on the diagnostics
capabilities. When we supply a Shurflo pump based system to our customers,
it will be fully integrated system with all the necessary part to ensure the
system will work reliability and effectively. It will not be sold at

Richard from Aquamist

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Labonte" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Qs on water injection

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <>
> To: <>
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Qs on water injection

> Roger I will have to disagree with you on a few points.  The ERL system
> is not designed for high HP applications.  With a 350hp car you will be
> running about 375-450ml/minute assuming a 50/50 mix of water methonal.
> ERL pump drops off at 300ml/minute to 40psi injection pressure.  With a
> boost pressure of 18-20psi your WM effective injection pressure is only
> 20psi.  The goal of WM is to get the most cooling with the least quanity
> injected as the water displaces the oxygen of the air charge.  Thus you
> high pressure to atomise the WM as much as possible.  The injection nozzel
> is also an important factor in the system.  Both the ERL and
> (SP) kits use a two chamber nozzel, but the SP nozzel has a venturie type
> orafise were as the ERL is not.  You will get better atomization with the
> nozzel.
> The SP pump is designed to maintain 140psi at a flow rate of 1.5
> gallons/minute.  There is also a larger pump that can do 220psi at
> 2.2gal/min, but this usually used on large turbo deisel engines.  Don't
> me wrong, the ERL is a good system, but it is designed for smaller engine
> (4cyl) applications.
> The 50/50 mix is a better choice then just straight water injection.  The
> methonal helps work as anti-detonation and adds to HP.  You can get about
> 40HP with the SP system running water and about 80HP running WM, this has
> been dyno tested.  So no reason to leave that extra 40HP on the table.
> > What you must think about is that pre-pressurized tanks are not a great
> > option as they go out too quickly and are for sure not the size you want
> to
> > find a spot for in your engine bay.
> I agree not to use a pre-pressurized tank, only leads to problems.  Tank
> options for our cars could include the following:
> 1) 1gallon Euro style washer fluid tank that mounts under front clip.  (I
> think Roger can sell these)
> 2) 2qt radiator overflow tank from 99 model monunts under clip ($35 is
> I paid for mine from one of the good guy dealers)
> 3) Convert the stock washer fluid tank for WM injection (but then no
> washing) Note: rear washer tank is to small for any practical road racing
> use.
> 4) The SP kit comes with a square 2qt tank with level sensor that could be
> monted in place of the battery (would require you to relocate battery to
> use)
> > The ERL System 1 comes with a boost sensor that electrically switches
> > pump on at a specific boost level.
> So does the SP stage one kit for about $120 less.
> > I do have the ERL System 2 installed that comes with additional
> > and water valve that aloows to control the amount of water sprayed in
> > relation to boost and rpm (3D mapping). Thsi is like a fuel or ignition
> map
> > that is related to two other dimensions.
> The ERL system is not true 3D mapping.  It uses the injector dutycycle to
> control pump speed (which is not a bad thing) and a boost switch to
> on/off.  Yes it works with two different variables or inputs but is not a
> true 3D map.
> The SP controller measures boost pressure and has two user adjustable
> settings, Start and Full On.  Start is the boost pressure required to
> activate the system and Full On is the boost pressre for max injection
> Start is adjustable from .5 to 8 psi and Full On goes from 2 to 25psi.
> controller has its own PWM contol for the pump and will vary the ramp rate
> of the injection qty linearlly between the two settings.  Also not a
> table or 3D mapping.
> > Adding alcohol may increase the octane rating but you'll never know how
> much
> > octane you are really running at the moment. ERL has now also a flow
> > available where you can see how much water is injected. With this the
> exact
> > amount of water to fuel can be determined.
> No big science here as the qty required is based on the HP of the car and
> then correctly sizeing the nozzel for the application.  See
> for more details on this.
> The ERL 2s system sells for $750 at 3SX, SP stage 2 kit is only $399.  The
> ERL is a good system, but is it really worth $350 more?
> Dan Labonte

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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:06:59 -0800
From: Gizmo <>
Subject: Team3S: Re: power door switch

Erik is probably pointing you in the right direction. The window
regulator has some plastic type parts/pulleys that crack because of age
and the cable slips into these cracks and fouls things up so your window
doesn't operate properly.

If you get another regulator, don't buy one from a wrecking yard. Those
are just as old as yours is and may well be ready to crack or break
also.  A new one from NORCO cost me $10 more that the wrecking yard
wanted for a used dirty POS.

After replacing my driver side window regulator it worked fine.



***  Info:  ***


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:13:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <>
Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders

A couple of questions for those of you with speedbleeders:

1) Are they prone to leaking? I have heard they are, but is this just a
matter of making sure they are tight enough?

2) Anyone know quality differences between speedbleeder speedbleeders vs.
Russel Speedbleeders?

3) Stainless steel - worth it (approximately $15 vs. $7/bleeder) or not?

4) Necessary to bleed all 4 brakes at once? I have directions on how to do
the front two, but I have heard the correct way is to bleed rear
passenger, front driver, rear driver, front passenger.


Mike 97 vr4

***  Info:  ***


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:55:31 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> [] On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
> Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 7:14 PM
> To:
> Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders
> A couple of questions for those of you with speedbleeders:
> 1) Are they prone to leaking? I have heard they are, but is
> this just a matter of making sure they are tight enough?

I've had mine in for a while now(1 year plus on both my jeep and
stealth)....haven't seen any leaks yet
> 3) Stainless steel - worth it (approximately $15 vs.
> $7/bleeder) or not?

Can't see the stainless ones being worth the extra cost.  It's not like
they're gonna rust.
> 4) Necessary to bleed all 4 brakes at once? I have directions
> on how to do the front two, but I have heard the correct way
> is to bleed rear passenger, front driver, rear driver, front
> passenger.

If you have ABS, you must bleed all four lines to get all of the air and
old fluid out of the system.

- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI #0499)
2K Jeep TJ Sport
St. Louis, MO

***  Info:  ***


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:31:23 -0700
From: "Suzanne and da boys" <>
Subject: Team3S: Suspension and Tranny Question.

    First off we own a 92 Dodge Stealth R/T NA with 90,000+ miles. With a
manual 5 Speed. When we hit a hill with the cruise on or step on the gas in
5th it pops out of gear.
    Second we are going to replace the front struts and rear shocks it has
the ECS does anybody know what would be the best ones for keeping the car
flat on corners? KYB GR-2's, Stock..... And lowering it is not an option.


***  Info:  ***


Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 07:19:34 -0700
From: "Bobby Vaughn" <>
Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders

I just had to do mine.  I have speedbleeder speedbleeders and they don't
leak fluid, but I do have to bleed the system about once a year.  It's not
bad though.  It just gets a bit of air into the lines.  To me, they are
worth the hassle though.  It's rare that I could ever get someone over to my
house to help me bleed my brakes, so I'll deal with an air issue just to be
able to bleed them myself!  I only know of one other person (personally)
that has them on their car as well and they are beginning to notice the same
thing with theirs.  They've had theirs in for a little over a year now.
Hope this helps.

92 White VR4

***  Info:  ***


End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #383