Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, February 26 2004 Volume
02 : Number 380
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:11:54 -0000
From: "Alex Judd" <email@example.com
How to replace your vacuum tubing and fix your boost problems
Firstly thanks to everyone who helped me with my diagnostics and I've
documented all my rebuilding for anyone else who needs a hand. Roger, Jeff, Andy
- thanks personally again and your advice and help has been invaluable - to
stick with it was true!
The cars now working nicely and ready for a good track day to have some
fun! Fantastic stuff and even the 3 squad cars that pulled me over yesterday
(DVLA yet to register my private plate!) were impressed with the piping.
Anyone ever in London is welcome for beers on me to repay the favours!
Thanks again and I think you'll see more questions now (Tein
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 15:29:58 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <firstname.lastname@example.org
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Bay Area - Last call for NASA HPDE at
Thunderhill Raceway this weekend!
The river near our house.
its never gonna hurt US..but Ben Lomon & Felton are having
They start to have issues at 3,000cfs and 10' height.
Currently at 8400cfs, and about 15'
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:09:09 -0600
From: "Ioan Raicu" <email@example.com
Team3S: RE: Drag numbers
I second what Mike said about the top speed of our cars (at least the 2nd
gens), especially since I was in the car with him when we did several of those
top speed runs!!! It is quite exhilarating!!!
The only thing that I wanted to bring up which Mike forgot to mention is
that in all our high speed tests, the car reached redline of 4th gear (145 mph
or so) very fast, and then it pulled strong up to high 150s or low 160s, but
then it started increasing very very slowly after that... I remember that
going from the 160 to 169 mph, it seemed like it took an eternity... The
interesting thing is that we reached the high 160s on several occasions (so it
was not a fluke), but I do remember a specific instance when the car seemed to
top out at about 160 mph (which I blamed on the wind).
My conclusion, from my few high speed runs, was that the wind plays a big
factor (whether you reach 160 or 170, or something in the middle). I
firmly believe a stock 3S turbo should be able to surpass 160mph given that the
head wind in the opposite direction of the traveling car is not very strong, or
favorably non existent.
94 Yellow TT
PS: We made high speed runs on a complete stock 94 TT, and afterwards on a
BPU set at 14PSI, and we did not see much difference (if any at all) in the top
speed, although it seemed to get there faster :) If I remember corretly, I
believe we had a 5 mile stretch of open and straight highway (with 4 or 5 lanes)
in most of our high speed runs :)
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:54:31 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Team3S: Re: How to replace your vacuum tubing and fix your boost problems
Alex. there is still an error in your colored drawing. Compare the diagram
under your hood with the one you have drawn (what I think is a great idea) and
you'll fidn out the the fuel pressure regulator with the fuel control solenoid
are still wrongly connected. You have exchanged the pink and the red lines. The
read should go to the solenoid after the hard pipe. Exactly said, simply
exchange the red and pink hoses at "left" sides of the hard pipes and everything
is fine (besides of your car has no EGR and no purge solenoid valve, one of the
oldest setups I have seen). And redraw the diagram with the small change.
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 19:16:45 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <email@example.com
Stock Alarm Question
My stock alarm has gone nuts. It is going off about 5 times a day and the
usual fix (bent bracket on the hood sensor) is not the culprit. Though goes off
randomly through the day, but is consistent in that after I deactivate it with
the remote it goes off as soon as I open the driver side door. I think that it
is related to either the driver side door sensor or there is some kind of
malfunction in the "brain."
I have also noticed that after the alarm goes off and I use the key in the
door to deactivate it, the doors automatically lock regardless of which way I
turn the key. I can then unlock the door with the key, but given the number of
posts I've seen float by about power locks I'm wondering if they are going south
as well or if the two are related.
I have considered just having a new after market alarm installed because it
will probably cost about the same as troubleshooting the stock alarm but be
higher quality. But I am concerned that if I do that it will not solve the
potential problem with the locks. Can anyone offer a suggestion?
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 05:51:24 +0000
Team3S: Electrical/Starting Problems Resolved-My First Posting...
I have been experiencing similar issues
with my `96 VR4. But with a slight variation. This began on President's Day, 16
Feb 04. Previous to this day, I had been having issues with the battery draining
while parked in the garage or at work. I'm in Chicago, so I knew the cold
weather would be a probable culprit. Because of my work schedule and waiting to
decide on what battery to get, I began to keep a battery booster/charger on
hand. I purchased a Red Top Optima and hoped I wasn't going to have anymore
problems. But this particular day, I happen to be leaving work, went to start
the car, all the idiot lights lit up and then quickly went out. I grabbed the
booster/charger, nothing. Couldn't figure out what the problem could be. I began
to check fuses, found that the IGN fuse was blown(still original). I grabbed the
fuse from the AERO and it started right up. Stopped by Pep Boys and bought more
fuses and went home. Next morning, went out to the garage and repeated the
prev! ious day's activities. Turned key to ON, then START, idiot lights
followed by nothing. Put in one of the extra fuses, she started right up. Went
straight to the mechanics that specialize in electrical systems. Ran it through
diagnostics, they couldn't find anything. They kept her for a few days, she
started everyday for them. I picked her up today, she started right up. While
they had her, I had them install a Hyper Grounding and Voltage System. She ran
great and I was on my way to drop her off at my normal shop to have her fitted
with her new shoes(HP Lightenings-HyperDark 18x9 with 2mm spacers wrapped in
Kumho712s) and stopped to get gas and she wouldn't start again, blew another
fuse about a block and a half from the shop. But this time, she charred it and
blew the other 2 subsequently. All idiot lights are on, radio, headlights and
everything. She just won't start. There is no ticking or anything from the
starter. Had to push start her to get her to the shop. Got a call!
later, that they went to get her in the bay and she started r! ight up( on the
last spare fuse). Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
`96 Black VR4
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:25:44 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
"Jeff & Debby Kelley" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Team3S: Service Manuals
Manuals for Mitsubishi 3000 GT'S:
I called overnight auto
parts and they said that they didn't have any. and the Free is for
shipping on items over $50.00. So I called Mitsubishi Fulfillment Center and she
said they had not
carried the manuals for several years now. She said
get them at
you local Dealer Only! Then I called my local Dealer
and they didn't
have one either and said they would only order in large
#'s 100 or so. Does any body have any Ideas other than on CD? or
should I say I have a Book , but I misplaced it and get the CD? Also are there
any of the Team 3S Floor mats hanging around? Does any one know where to get
floor mats for a 92 3000GT? Black or Grey.
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 11:51:41 -0000
From: "Alex Judd" <email@example.com
RE: How to replace your vacuum tubing and fix your boost problems
Roger - you're too sharp :) I blame the GTOUK guys who very kindly drew it
I've corrected the version on my site so that it serves as a correct
diagram - and luckily I didn't move those pipes so I was fine.
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 14:40:56 +0000
Subject: Team3S: 5
Speed Transmission Question /Center Differential/Viscous Coupling Unit
Updated 5 Speed Transmission Question pertaining to a 92 VR 4 with a 25
I just bought this car about 1 month ago. The car would not move like
the diferential in the transmission was sleping not allowing any of the wheels
to engage. The person I bought the car from was told it needed the 25
spine output shaft installed in the transmission and also the female spline gear
transfer case. He had already purchase both parts from Komex
This is before anything was disassembled on the car.
Note these parts did need to be replaced. They were stripped
After replacing the output shaft and the spline in the transfer-case. The
ran fine and went in to all gears perfect! Clutch was fine no slippage.
Took the car to get inspected past fine. But when I went to pick up the car
would not move as if the transmission would not go into any of the gears nor
reverse. Same issue again!
The Clutch is fully releasing. You can
see the main shaft spinning with the round access cover removed..This cover
allows acces to the hex bolt for the main shaft. Seems to be in the Center
Differential/Viscous Coupling Unit slipping!!!! Can this unit be repaired
and are parts available? Has any one run across this issue before? What
and how to repair,,,what to look for with out replacing the transmission?
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 14:59:50 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Re: Team3S: 5 Speed Transmission Question /Center Differential/Viscous Coupling
>> Seems to be in the Center Differential/Viscous Coupling Unit
It very well could be. But it also could be a different "broken" part
inside the gearbox - shift fork or rod, etc. (permanent neutral). Take the
tansfer case off and verify the new output shaft is in good shape.
>> Can this unit be repaired and are parts available?
Parts should be available from CRS.
Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc.
10001 NW 2nd
Oklahoma City, OK 73127
Contact: Gloria Lind at 405-350-3802 or
And perhaps other sources - see the Garage Page at my web site.
To see what parts are available look at the pics below.
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:01:29 -0800 (PST)
Team3S: Service Manuals
I got the manuals from Rockville Mitsubishi 2 years ago (www.mitsupartsdirect.com
IIRC, both manuals were $125. I have to admit, haven't spent much time in
the electrical manual - knock on wood.
Should have floor mats too. I think the fronts are about $65.
Also show up on ebay on occasion
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:36:40 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <email@example.com
Team3S: Drag numbers
No offense to you or to the car mags either, Jeff, but I've sat in the
passenger seat while ET drove our (K&N-, Eibach-, and plus-sized
hi-perf-tire-equipped, but otherwise unmodded) 164 HP '94 BASE Stealth for close
to an hour at (a reading of) 140-145 on I-5, slightly under redline
(5900?). (I've driven it at a reading of 135 for an hour on that same
road). No overheating, no issues except the hellacious noise..., and that the
front wanted to lift once in a while. And let's assume an huge speedo
error of 10%, and call that 145 a 'real' 130mph. You don't think that a
"middle-model" 222 HP 3S with almost 60 more HP could manage 20 'real' mph
faster? (The 222 models have [a ballpark] 30% more HP and 10% more weight,
when compared to the Base). If not 20 more mph, it would be *really* close
to 150, (if it didn't go airborne), IMO...
The gearing on the NT models seems to make up for the lower HP when it
comes to top speed on the road. I'll agree that the taller 6th gear might
make the top end of the turbo 155 mph compared to the top end of the 5-gear DOHC
non-turbo 145 mph, as has been published. But in '98 we had an impromptu
gathering of 4 of the the (then) Team3S Admins- Chris W, Darcy, Rich L, and me,
driving DOHC TT, DOHC NT, and SOHC NT models. We played tag on the highway
at speeds in excess of 120 (and we even had to run and hide from a cop, who
spotted us). Although the TT accelerated faster, the NT's had no problem
keeping up, just a second or two behind in a fairly clear highway environment
(and maybe 1/4 mile apart on an empty road). Other turbo owners have
reported top speed readings of 170-180 and we've heard of ~200 from non-members,
so I believe that under optimal tuning-tires-temp-elevation-wind conditions,
certain turbos will go a 'real' 160, and that similarly, certain DOHC NT's can
reach a 'real' 150. Just my .02...
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 16:50:28 +0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Stealth ES 1991
I have a question if anybody know the NCS number of the gray coulor for an
original Blue Metallic ES.
I must fix some detaljs.
Cant find it on
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 10:53:28 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <email@example.com
Team3S: A little O.T., but still cool
Got this from my father...not sure of the source...if any of it's true,
it's pretty cool
THE BIG BOYS OF RACING!! TOP FUEL....
* One Top Fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower
than the first 4 rows of NASCARS at the Daytona 500.
* Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1-1/2 gallons of
nitromethane per second; a fully loaded 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate
with 25% less energy being produced.
* A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to drive the
* With 3,000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive,
the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition. Cylinders
run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle.
* At the stoichiometric (stoichiometry: methodology and technology by which
quantities of reactants and products in chemical reactions are determined)1.7:1
air/fuel mixture for nitromethane, the flame front temperature measures 7,050
* Nitromethane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the
stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water
vapor by the searing exhaust gases.
* Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an
arc welder in each cylinder.
* Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After halfway,
the engine is dieseling from compression, plus the glow of exhaust valves at
1,400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel
* If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in
the affected cylinders and then explodes with sufficient force to blow cylinder
heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half.
* In order to exceed 300 mph in 4.5 seconds, dragsters must accelerate an
average of over 4G's. In order to reach 200 mph (well before half-track), the
launch acceleration approaches 8G's.
* Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have completed reading
* Top Fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to
* Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under
* The redline is actually quite high at 9,500 rpm.
* Assuming all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for
once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs an estimated $1,000.00 per second.
The current Top Fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.441 seconds for the
quarter mile (10/05/03, Tony Schumacher). The top speed record is 333.00 mph.
(533 km/h) as measured over the last 66' of the run (09/28/03 Doug
Putting all of this into perspective:
You are driving the average
$140,000 Lingenfelter "twin-turbo" powered Corvette Z06. Over a mile up the
road, a Top Fuel dragster is staged and ready to launch down a quarter mile
strip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette
hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line and past the drags
at an honest 200 mph. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that
The dragster launches and starts after you. You keep your foot down hard,
but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums and within 3
seconds, the drags catches and passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a
quarter mile away from where you just passed him.
Think about it, from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 mph
and not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you
within a mere 1,320 foot long race course.
That folks, is ACCELERATION!
'91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI
2K Jeep TJ Sport
St. Louis, MO
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 12:29:35 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com
Team3S: Electrical/Starting Problems Resolved-My First Posting...
I have an intermittent short, which I think is in my steering wheel wiring,
or related. So far it has only showed itself as radio and cruise control
intermittently working. if I rap the sterring wheel sideways, or sometimes turn
it just right,
everything works again. No blown fuses so far, crossing
My car has an aftermarket radio and alarm, so I suspect one of those was
It's a reprint from the March '04 issue of Automobile. All is true,
probably. Detonation??? What detonation? Who cares if there was detonation after
all the engine pieces melt into one solid chunk of metal after 900 revolutions,
LOL! If the Vette keeps accelerating past the starting 200 MPH, say to 205+ MPH,
then the Vette will win this strange rolling start 1/4 mile contest. Very close
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 23:55:04 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Team3S: English manual for Blitz DTT DC and FATT DC ?
Unfortunately, I've lost the english version of those two turbo timers and
my japanese supplier of course doesn't have any.
Does anbody know where the scanned versions or even an electronic version
of those uses and installation manuals can be found ?
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2