Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, February 14 2004 Volume
02 : Number 371
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:46:00 -0800
From: Gizmo <email@example.com
Re: Spring fever
Doing a 60K maintenance is fairly involved. I would recomend that you
replace the water pump when you do this. I am in the Seattle area and
my health is crap (waiting for a transplant) but I did the 60K in total
(new plugs, wires, etc. I don't know what you mean as a hands on but
being a woman you should be able to do this with some good step by step
instructions. There is a listing on the website for doing a 60K with
step by step instructions. Some steps are harder and some are easier.
As I said, I just did mine and my health is crap. It took longer because
of this. Also there are different ways to put your belt on so the timing
is correct (you don't want valves crashing into pistons!) Rich knows a
mechanic in the Des Moines area that might help (you may have to pay his
transportation costs) and Tyson knows a better way to align the timing
Hope this is useful--------->Grease washes off!
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 01:02:15 -0500
From: Planet <firstname.lastname@example.org
Team3S: Friday the 13th lives up to its name
Hey guys/gals(if there is any), this isn't much of a thinker, I am more
conserned with the repair costs.
I was driving work, grannying it like always, my 92 base stealth is my
student commuter. And with the sound of a crack and a jolt my engine
stallled. I stared the enigine up again while rolling and as soon as I
took my foot of the cluch it stalled right away. With enough momentum I
pulled into a parking lot. When the car came to a stop I tried starting
it again. Started fine, put in first, let off clutch, and it stalls.
Like instantly, car doesn't budge. So I put in neutral and got out of
car to push it out of way. Wont move. I put it in every gear, shifter
felt normal, went into every gear, put back in neutral and tried to push
again, even rocked the car, it was like the front wheels were locked.
Got back in car. started up, ran fine in neutral. As soon as I put in
gear, let off clutch, instant stall. I gave it some gas and I would just
smell burning clutch. By this point i didn't care, I was blocking 3 card
that needed to get out. And was this car has pissed me off enought.
Someone who knew me drove by and stopped to help. With the car running
and in neutral I got out and we rocked the car on its suspension hard
enough to hear a crack, then it rolled. Got it out of way then got it
towed to mister transmission (i wont even attempt to foll with that).
Someone I know thinks it was the clutch shaddering. But the fact that I
could run the car, and it was when I let off the clutch in gear is when
it would stall. I think serious transmission problems. Can they be
rebuilt? Sold used? Whats is the cheapest way to fix this? Like I said,
im poor student and this is my commuter car, I drive slow as cops have
nothing better to do then radar around here and I cant afford the
tickets so I granny it around, and dont drive far each day.......How
does this happen to me? friday the 13th maybee, how much more on top of
the 4k I have spent in the last 12 months might this cost me.
If my car breaks this much, and its not even run hard, how do you guys
keep your even working?
Jason M :_(
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 08:38:57 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <email@example.com
Team3S: 94/95 hybrid datalogging with knock!!!
I'm passing this along for folks interested in the hybrid data loggers for
1994 and 1995 3000GTs and Stealths. Orders are now being accepted and the
cables will ship next week. I have nothing to do with the product or the
sale (other than buying one!). Any questions should be addressed to Chris
Dooley [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]. Congratulations to Chris for
solving this. He is apparently a college student with a lot on his plate,
so this is quite an accomplishment. Good for him!
All of the hype is true, we have finally gotten them to work, and
the cables should be here soon. These dataloggers CAN LOG KNOCK.
3000GT/Stealth (All models, including N/A) Dataloggers Fully molded cables
Software (Getting pictures of it up on the website) Log over 22
They can log KNOCK
as well as all of the
other parameters you are used to logging on the 91-93 cars Free upgrades for new
releases Alarms for when sensors go over/under certain values (you set them)
Solenoid and sensor tests Check engine light code reader, and
Price: $250, plus $5 Shipping anywhere in US (Shipping is estimate
Compatible Palm Models.....PALMS ONLY AT THIS POINT (still looking into
sony's, but definitely no visors) Palms m100, m105, m120, m125, m130, m500,
m505, m515 will all work. Also....., Anything on this page (http://www.palmos.com/dev/tech/hardware/compare.html
VZ Chip & Palm OS 3.11 and greater
So basically almost every palm built
except the new tungstens, and the really old palms.
I would REALLY recommend the m500 series because they have this LED at the
top of the palm I am going to try and implement for warnings. and they have
Sign up on the list below to get in line. You will be PM'd when these go on
sale, and the website will be updated as well:
Just to let everyone know:
payment will be taken in Credit card preferably.
accepted NO DISCOVER
and paypal....if it is your only option.
Let me take 2 minutes to explain how the software is
>From numerous stories and friends trying to share another name brand
software, we have decided to up the security on how we generate serial
numbers. Usually a serial number is generated ONLY based on your hotsync
name on your palm. This means, if your buddy on the board has the same
hotsync name as you, you can basically "share" (which is illegal) the
To prevent this, we have come up with a new system of generating serial
numbers. The serial numbers are generated from your hotsync name AND
credit card (this is where paypal has a problem). This means that if you
want to try and give out the software you would need to share your credit card
information as well, and who is going to do that?.....most likely no one.
So when you register your palm you must type in your serial number you
received from us, and the credit card you used to purchase it. At this
point, the software checks to make sure these check out, and registers the
software for you. THE CREDIT CARD IS NOT STORED ON YOUR PALM IN ANY PLACE.
AND THE CREDIT CARD CANNOT BE REVERSE GENERATED FROM THE SERIAL NUMBER SINCE NOT
ALL NUMBERS IN IT ARE USED. IT IS 100% SAFE.
The only problem now arises if you need to use paypal, which isn't using a
credit card in some instances. In these cases we will ask you to use your
social security number for the credit card in the payment information. All
of this is over a 128 bit secure encrypted connected and cannot be hacked. Then
when you register the software, you will type the social security number in for
the credit card. It is the same as the credit card, and will not be saved
Serial numbers, upgrades to the software, and any other downloads needed
are free of charge. They can be downloaded from our website once you
pay. A link will be provided where you can login.
If anyone has any questions on this, please feel free to email me and I can
explain more. %%%%%
Ok, here's the ordering information.
I haven't gotten the test cables in, they had to fix the mold and I wont
have them until Monday. But I'm 100% sure that they are going to
I am going to start accepting payments now, and begin to ship NEXT WEEK
when I receive the cables. I am not going to charge the cards until I ship
the cables, but I am going to take info so I have it when I am ready to
For credit card orders (preferred) please fill out the form as you normally
For Paypal Orders
- -when you fill out the form above please put
"PAYPAL" as the name on the card without the quotes on it.
- -You will need
to put your social security in for your credit card. Please read a few
posts back on why we do this and how it is secure (this is used for serial
number generating). Put it in the format of "SS:12345678", with the S's
and the colon in there, but no double quotes.
- -Paypal to email@example.com
and please put
your board handle in the details. Paypal total is $257 which includes
Shipping will be USPS, and I have increased the price of shipping to
include tracking, and possibly insurance...I am still checking into the final
weight of the cables. If you would like to ship some other method, please
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England, UK
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System Ek2MFG dual-flex downpipe, Blitz SS
Blow-Off Valve K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk-I, A'PEXi Turbo Timer
MirageCorp hybrid data logger, Magnecore plug wires Optima Red Top 830 Battery,
Redline synth fluids Supercar Engineering StopTech 4-corner big brake
Street: stock rims, Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17
RPM-02, Yokohama A-032R Hcomp 275/40R17
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16
sec @ 113.9 mph
Top Speed: 171 mph, Dyno: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 10:38:09 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <firstname.lastname@example.org
Re: Team3S: 94/95 hybrid datalogging with knock!!!
Yes, it's good that they are out now ... although I don't trust any
software until it has passed any field test. Also how safe is the knock sum that
it shows, true knock or just some calculation ? Unfortunately, it can't be
checked but a scan tool from Mitsubishi.
The logger cable consits of a level and code converter in the plug,
basically a MAX232 chip that changes the signals to RS232 for the PALM. The
trick was to find the level/pulse frequency and to get the protocol details from
somewhere. If this is known, making the software and hardware is pretty easy and
in fact inexpensive.
To be honest, people buy soft- / hardware they have not seen any screenshot
nor know if it really works is a high risk. This is very strange to me !! What
if the knock that is shown doesn't show the right value and boom the engine goes
south ? So all that pay $250 are guinea pigs and test the soft and hardware with
the danger of a big problem. Sorry, I led a software department 15 years ago
have some degrees and know about quality management and test procedures. And a
college student does this too ??? Tested on one car ? Tested by one person
Anyways, it is great IF everything works out fine. We all love to see the
results and hopefully they are positive. I'm just a little more sceptic as 99%
of our community and I always first must see if everything is done right
(development, engineering, testing).
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 17:21:48 -0500
From: "Dan Labonte" <email@example.com
Rear Waste Gate Actuator Need Help
My car is currently boosting up to 17psi then goes into fuel cut. I
checked the waste gate solenoid according to the manual and it is fine.
The front waste gate actuator did not have much travel, less then 1/4". So
I worked it with some WD-40 and now has more travel about 3/4". I am
suspecting that the rear actuator is also sticking but I can't see the lever
from above the engine, did find actuator were hose connects.
Any body know were the lever for the rear is or what I have to remove to
get at it. Or any other suggestions as to why I am over boosting.
Turbos all stock, no MBC, Turbo H-34 BOV. I need to get this figured out
quick as I am suppose to race at VIR next weekend.
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2